Obviously nobody in Sodor knew that. Who sees unbuffered end of tracks and thinks "Oh this would make a great place to build a barbershop/dinner room."
Thanks for testing my buffers 😊 As you said the soft springs are probably the best for low speed collisions. And these buffers definitely work best when your tracks are attached to baseplates. I was secretly hoping for some slow mo footage, but I guess it would be quite a lot of effort.
Sure thing! Thanks for sharing the instructions 👍. I haven't really tried doing slow motion stuff, my phone barely records well enough to make videos at all 😅. Definitely due for an upgrade soon
@@BatteryPoweredBricks XD would be pretty hilarious to see a sort of "aircraft carrier" esq launcher for trains so they get instant acceleration up to full speed :D also if you have oil filled non lego shocks, those might work better
@@michealshelton2133 Not only do the new ones look great, they're also functional and won't really go bad over time unlike a rubber band which will naturally degrade.
It looks like grey springs would be good in a yard, for lower speed collisions, and yellow might be good for mainline derailers, or long yards where you might crash an entire train, not just an engine. :)
Thanks for the appreciation. Nice video. I've tested all the springs during construction and only the grey one was good for the trains. The red and yellow springs were too hard and dragged the entire track behind them..
I'll probably use the gray springs in yards, maybe harder springs where a full train might hit it if I'm not paying attention 😅 as long as the tracks are reinforced.
Realistically speaking, launching two big diesel locomotives at full speed would separate the buffer stop from the track in real life too. The track will be separated too, the first engine would also derail catastrophically, and many things in its course would be separated too. So, the first test was pretty conclusive in fact!
Nice test! 🙂 What I find annoying about Lego sizes is the dire need for 1,5 diameter round tiles at least... 1 is usually too small for buffers, 2 mostly too large for buffers, headlights, etc. One solution I found was using the small train wheels 50254 - they are not ideal shape-wise but nicer size-wise. (note: these new 50254 ones have notched holes - if you want the wheel to roll better , look for the old 2927 featuring round holes.) Also, you can get proper single buffers, produced in the 1970s and 80s, under Bricklink "buffer".
Yeah I have seen some that used the 70's-90's buffers without a magnet. I feel like I've seen some that used a shock absorber as well. It would be really cool to see some 1.5 stud diameter round tiles
If you dont have shock absorbers, could you try using a long axle with bush 3713 or 4265c to act as friction energy dissipation. it would need reset after impact, but multiple spaced bushes could be used to gradually absorb big impacts. In theory.
I have a few 4.5v and can explain how the signal works! There's a small button on the bottom of the battery box which works as a circuit breaker. The signal fits between ties on the tracks, and the red bar at the base is either lifted or lowered depending on whether the signal is up or down. When the signal is down to stop the engine, the bar will be up, which the circuit breaker button runs directly into. While the signal's up the bar is lowered and the battery box rolls right on by without touching it. You may already be aware but the small red stand you got also interacts with the battery box: It is affixed to the outside of the track and the triangular wedge will collide with the 3-position switch, reversing the direction. (Or, if your batteries are low or too much weight etc, it will simply collide and go to neutral, stopping the engine) I believe I had recorded a video demonstrating both of these, but never uploaded it. If you like I certainly can upload one though!
I meant the raising and lowering itself, I had seen them used in a few of BrickTsar's videos. I have a 4.5v train I just haven't used these pieces with it yet. It definitely has a lot of charm 😀
I would say this is the best way to think about it. the energy of the impact is the same in all cases meaning what matters is the amount time the impact takes (impulse). (the longer the time the lower the force that can break things IE th track or the train) This means that the spring that makes the train stop the slowest while not bottoming out is the "best" (F = -kx) thus there will be a different optimal spring for each train mass and speed (kinetic energy) you would have to do more analysis of the trains that use the tracks to pick a spring that suits the most use cases possible. i loved getting to think about this. hopefully i'm not wrong but if that's the case i get to learn something. PS i know this is lego and it doesn't really matter but oh well
By all means!😁 This stuff is fun to think about. I think in the end I will use different springs for different places on a layout. If it's a spur off the main line or something maybe the harder spring and in the yard use softer springs.
I did see designs that used more shock absorbers. I wanted something simple since I planned on making several. I had fun testing them but unless I make a mistake they won't be hit at high speed
Maybe try out some of those 2909 shock absorbers. They can be had with up to "very hard springs" and they have more than 1 brick of movement. For a heavier train these might be what is needed.
The more I think about it I really don't think I'll be hitting them at high speed or even with full trains. They will typically be used in rail yards. I may end up using the medium springs I tested
at 3mins straight you brought a old 1990 lego train stop unfortunatly you canot use it whit the tracks of lego has now only whit the tracks where you have the old 4pieces tracks you have to out toghetor and then click on it on another straight or curved track. like i sayd that 1 is purely made for the battery powerd & track version form that lego era after a while they even added another track piece that what the powerd rail in the center from that moent on you needed a different type off stop
I have lots of the old style of track and I'm collecting older trains as well. I already have a full 4.5v train with the battery box car with the switch on the side. The 12v system with the powered center rail is something I'm working on getting into now. But it is not easy since it was never released in the US. So most of it has to be imprted
Track separation can be fixed by adding ballast. It is expensive, but it looks better and improves strength and durability. I ballast according to the PennLUG standard using fewer parts than they do, but any sort of ballast works. I like the use of the harder springs. But I wonder if the more intricate MOC 8-wide trains we build would fare better with the use of the softer springs.
You've seen my layouts, I'm not ballasting all of that 😅. But yeah on an actual layout with baseplates / ballast I'm sure track separation wouldn't be a problem
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I guess that was misleading. Sorry. I don’t ballast everything. I have tiny segments ballasted on baseplates, that I can bring as spares for our shows. TBRR collectively has a LOT of ballasted track. Lol
As a certain engine once said:
"That's what buffers are for, to stop engines from crashing."
just so happened that i came from a video of one of the most (in)famous moments of that engine's show
@@Green24152 Was that the same episode where he crashed through a set of buffers, while showing off?
Obviously nobody in Sodor knew that. Who sees unbuffered end of tracks and thinks "Oh this would make a great place to build a barbershop/dinner room."
@@joeleboeuf no it was the "look out for the train" moment
@@Green24152 Which episode was that?
Thanks for testing my buffers 😊
As you said the soft springs are probably the best for low speed collisions.
And these buffers definitely work best when your tracks are attached to baseplates.
I was secretly hoping for some slow mo footage, but I guess it would be quite a lot of effort.
Sure thing! Thanks for sharing the instructions 👍. I haven't really tried doing slow motion stuff, my phone barely records well enough to make videos at all 😅. Definitely due for an upgrade soon
i mean for me the best for shock absorbing (IMO) is just a strechy rubberband stretched across the tracks with a bit of travel for the train
Not exactly realistic, but it could be fun 😅 Lego train slingshots!
@@BatteryPoweredBricks XD would be pretty hilarious to see a sort of "aircraft carrier" esq launcher for trains so they get instant acceleration up to full speed :D also if you have oil filled non lego shocks, those might work better
That's literally not even the point. The new one looks like a realistic piece of equipment.
@@michealshelton2133 (i go for function over form lol its our bricks our choice just have fun and you are doing it right :D)
@@michealshelton2133 Not only do the new ones look great, they're also functional and won't really go bad over time unlike a rubber band which will naturally degrade.
It looks like grey springs would be good in a yard, for lower speed collisions, and yellow might be good for mainline derailers, or long yards where you might crash an entire train, not just an engine. :)
Yeah that's pretty much what I'm thinking 👍
I love that the whole track layout moved an inch or two across the floor with each impact. Those buffers looked really neat too.
As always, very nicely done - this is an interesting topic, for sure. And congratulations on reaching 6 thousand subscribers - well deserved.
Thanks! You caught that one quick 😅 Just hit 6k this morning
All these cool switch points and the engine is moved between the tracks via the mighty claw instead
Thanks for the appreciation. Nice video.
I've tested all the springs during construction and only the grey one was good for the trains. The red and yellow springs were too hard and dragged the entire track behind them..
I'll probably use the gray springs in yards, maybe harder springs where a full train might hit it if I'm not paying attention 😅 as long as the tracks are reinforced.
try the ones from the container crane on rebrickable they use the grey springs and they look like real buffers
Which one? There are several container cranes on ReBrickable
Realistically speaking, launching two big diesel locomotives at full speed would separate the buffer stop from the track in real life too.
The track will be separated too, the first engine would also derail catastrophically, and many things in its course would be separated too. So, the first test was pretty conclusive in fact!
Very true! 😅
Nice test! 🙂
What I find annoying about Lego sizes is the dire need for 1,5 diameter round tiles at least... 1 is usually too small for buffers, 2 mostly too large for buffers, headlights, etc.
One solution I found was using the small train wheels 50254 - they are not ideal shape-wise but nicer size-wise. (note: these new 50254 ones have notched holes - if you want the wheel to roll better , look for the old 2927 featuring round holes.)
Also, you can get proper single buffers, produced in the 1970s and 80s, under Bricklink "buffer".
Yeah I have seen some that used the 70's-90's buffers without a magnet. I feel like I've seen some that used a shock absorber as well. It would be really cool to see some 1.5 stud diameter round tiles
If you dont have shock absorbers, could you try using a long axle with bush 3713 or 4265c to act as friction energy dissipation. it would need reset after impact, but multiple spaced bushes could be used to gradually absorb big impacts. In theory.
13:45 if only there was some sort of build we could put at the end of the track that would stop the train from traveling off the track...
If only... 😅
I have a few 4.5v and can explain how the signal works! There's a small button on the bottom of the battery box which works as a circuit breaker. The signal fits between ties on the tracks, and the red bar at the base is either lifted or lowered depending on whether the signal is up or down. When the signal is down to stop the engine, the bar will be up, which the circuit breaker button runs directly into. While the signal's up the bar is lowered and the battery box rolls right on by without touching it.
You may already be aware but the small red stand you got also interacts with the battery box: It is affixed to the outside of the track and the triangular wedge will collide with the 3-position switch, reversing the direction. (Or, if your batteries are low or too much weight etc, it will simply collide and go to neutral, stopping the engine)
I believe I had recorded a video demonstrating both of these, but never uploaded it. If you like I certainly can upload one though!
I meant the raising and lowering itself, I had seen them used in a few of BrickTsar's videos. I have a 4.5v train I just haven't used these pieces with it yet. It definitely has a lot of charm 😀
So I'm guessing American/Canadian locomotives would have a Knuckle coupler Absorber since we don't use buffers At all.
True, I didn't even think about that running American style locomotives 😅
I would say this is the best way to think about it. the energy of the impact is the same in all cases meaning what matters is the amount time the impact takes (impulse). (the longer the time the lower the force that can break things IE th track or the train) This means that the spring that makes the train stop the slowest while not bottoming out is the "best" (F = -kx) thus there will be a different optimal spring for each train mass and speed (kinetic energy) you would have to do more analysis of the trains that use the tracks to pick a spring that suits the most use cases possible. i loved getting to think about this. hopefully i'm not wrong but if that's the case i get to learn something. PS i know this is lego and it doesn't really matter but oh well
By all means!😁 This stuff is fun to think about. I think in the end I will use different springs for different places on a layout. If it's a spur off the main line or something maybe the harder spring and in the yard use softer springs.
Love it, imma use these on my tracks!
You should have a three spring buffer so it will hit soft and then harder if it hits fastee
I did see designs that used more shock absorbers. I wanted something simple since I planned on making several. I had fun testing them but unless I make a mistake they won't be hit at high speed
Maybe try out some of those 2909 shock absorbers. They can be had with up to "very hard springs" and they have more than 1 brick of movement. For a heavier train these might be what is needed.
The more I think about it I really don't think I'll be hitting them at high speed or even with full trains. They will typically be used in rail yards. I may end up using the medium springs I tested
it's from set 60198 from 2018.
Ah yes that's right. I bought the set second hand so much of it was already assembled or I probably would have rememberd
I hit the Like button because of the cat.
As I was reading this comment he came up behind me and started meowing, which I interpret to mean "Thank you" 😅
That was a neat buffer, thanks for the show and tell 😘
Do you mostly buy on Bricklink? It seems like you buy often and the shipping would get expensive to me. Just asking in case my assumption is off.
Yep Bricklink. Shipping does add up but it's way better than ordering from Lego Parts and Pieces 😅
at 3mins straight you brought a old 1990 lego train stop unfortunatly you canot use it whit the tracks of lego has now only whit the tracks where you have the old 4pieces tracks you have to out toghetor and then click on it on another straight or curved track. like i sayd that 1 is purely made for the battery powerd & track version form that lego era
after a while they even added another track piece that what the powerd rail in the center from that moent on you needed a different type off stop
I have lots of the old style of track and I'm collecting older trains as well. I already have a full 4.5v train with the battery box car with the switch on the side. The 12v system with the powered center rail is something I'm working on getting into now. But it is not easy since it was never released in the US. So most of it has to be imprted
I knew it was wort watching the whole video! The cameo appearance at the end was golden.
😹
Also they are a little bit old it's on the processes of building and due to I don't have any wave modeling it online
У прямых рельс KAZi стабильно критически-большой люфт. Они отлично подходят для кривым путей большого радиуса. =)
The set was 60198 freight train
I think the grey (soft) shock absorber is best, it makes a smoot stop without bounce back
It's probably what I'll use the most. I would have to make a pretty big mistake to hit them at high speed, they will mostly be in rail yards
Track separation can be fixed by adding ballast. It is expensive, but it looks better and improves strength and durability. I ballast according to the PennLUG standard using fewer parts than they do, but any sort of ballast works. I like the use of the harder springs. But I wonder if the more intricate MOC 8-wide trains we build would fare better with the use of the softer springs.
You've seen my layouts, I'm not ballasting all of that 😅. But yeah on an actual layout with baseplates / ballast I'm sure track separation wouldn't be a problem
@@BatteryPoweredBricks I guess that was misleading. Sorry. I don’t ballast everything. I have tiny segments ballasted on baseplates, that I can bring as spares for our shows. TBRR collectively has a LOT of ballasted track. Lol
Hey mate i was wondering where you buy all of your lego bricks from?
Bricklink! I can order parts from Lego's own Brick and Pieces service but in my experience they are far slower at shipping than most Bricklink sellers
These Buffers reminds me of Thomas the Train 🚂🚃🚃
Just think how different things could have been if the buffers in front of the Station Masters house had shock absorbers 😁
Your lucky you have 60052. That's my fav trian. I really want that
I wish Lego would do more American diesel locomotives. I really like the 60052 and especially the 10219 Maersk
Yeah
I was born in 2013 that why I couldn't get it
I'm from New Zealand