Nah it's great content mate. I found you a few weeks back through your Hot Rod repair, where's the second half by the way, I was just getting into that. Electronics is right over my head, but listening to you break it down an tear into bedroom DIY'ers has been well entertaining an educational. I've got a Hot Rod ii and a Bugera 6262,, both going on well over ten years old an due a decent service. Now I've a better idea what to ask for an hopefully less chance of getting ripped off. An these long form vids are just what's needed to get through this old Rona lockdown. If you keep making them I'll keep watching mate. Keep your Hakko hot, an the tracers clean Brad.
Brad, I hope you keep making videos. You have a lot of things going for your channel that other techs and DIY people don't---Great personality - Conversational -Good lighting and sound -An edgy No BS attitude (Gotta love Scottish and Australian honesty!) Most of all, you have this kind of, well, emotive exasperation, like (what the "F" is it now? Argh!) That's actually a great quality for videos. It pulls us viewers into the whole drama of it. And when you instantly reach across your desk and pull out the exact right tool or trick, you really wow the audience. You might be right about the complexity of some repairs being over the heads of the noobs, but also of no use to the experts...so here's something to consider: Just assume your audience is going to be mostly guitar players with broken gear and kids who might want to do this when they grow up. Personally, I've never watched any of these kinds of tech videos before. My knowledge and experience with soldering is really minimal. But I have a broken 6505 with fried diodes. It appears to be a common problem, so that's what brought me to your channel, and a few others. As a new viewer of this kind of content, I'm really curious about all the tools you have, what they do, etc. etc. I'm really curious about how you learned your skills, how to work on this stuff safely, how to get started as a beginner--that kind of thing. You say you're not sure about your content, or how to get more viewers. I'd say you're 90% of the way there. You have the tech skills, the personality, the tools, good production etc. The only thing missing is a few entry level, introductory videos where you introduce yourself, introduce your craft, and give the audience a jumping off point into the world of learning repairs. In between doing these really weird and esoteric repairs (like this glue snot nightmare) you could try to climb down the skill ladder a few notches and give others a helping hand on the journey. Think of a few basic topic videos that effect every guitarist or amp owner. Make sure the video solves that one simple skill topic everyone should have, and if, after that, the video dives off into the bushland for 1+ hour, no problem. The beginner lesson should come in the first 5 minutes. That way you satisfy both the average musician dude, and offer a little more for the eager student. Obviously, there's a ton of value in a complete repair like this one, so don't stop making this kind of video either. The down side of this longer format is that, even if you get through a variety of tech problems, the viewer might not really come away with the skills needed to do them. For instance, I'm made aware that solder-sucking tools exist, paint thinner exists, or that you have all these random tools, but it's still a mystery to the viewer/student how to get to a point where I know what the tools are, which ones are essential, how much they cost, and what they're for. So, I guess, assume that people want videos that can fill in some of the cracks in their knowledge. The big repair job is like this virtuoso performance to marvel at, which is good viewing as is, but we're still wanting a shorter video that says, "This is solder" or "This is how to test a resistor." Or "This is why you don't use the wrong fuse." Or "This part of the repair can kill you." Here's a perfect example of a short, tight, single topic video that rules: ua-cam.com/video/DkEc58-vWc4/v-deo.html Brad, I know you didn't ask for an entire rant about your content, but I hope you find this comment helpful. Credit to you for making this topic fun and interesting enough to spark my interest and hopefully the interest of many others in the future. If you didn't have the natural personality for entertaining content, I'd never have bothered to type all this. My worry is that people like you might stop making videos, while boring nerds flood the market with unwatchable wankery.
Hi Matthew, the best option is to go for a higher current rated diode, lifted off the board with crimps or ceramic standoffs. I think from memory, the 1N400x series would be okay for their current rating (all voltage ratings are sufficient) but the heat needs to be dissipated more effectively than the factory installation of the diodes being mounted hard to the PCB can offer.
Thanks for the video, I've been looking for info about the 6505+ 120w head because mine had no sound. I took a q-tip and some isopropyl and scrubbed out all of the jacks and it's good as new!
Fantastic result! Good work, mate. You may find that a sliver of manila folder threaded into the jacks shunt contacts and pulled out under tension several times will give you even greater longevity.
Mine will be back in the shop. R7 burned up. Charred a harness so hoping it's just the sleeve and didn't trash the wires as well. Probably should grab a back up seeing how the local shop is always busy and has a three week turn around time at min usually :(
Thanks for this excellent video tutorial Brad. Sorry but didnt catch what type and rating bridge rectifier you chassis mounted - something like a KBPC602 Bridge Rectifier Diode 6A 200V? Thanks!
brad ..on a 5150 the voltages comming out of the transformer to the board in the 3 wire groups i have 33v on the 3 orange 53v on the brown 5.3 on green. are they supposed to be A/C comming out of the transformer? and should one group have more volts than that? your help would be wonderful
Mate, I hate to tell you this, but if you have to ask that, I'd advise you either take the amp to a tech, or get reading on the fundamentals of electronics. I mean this in the kindest way and I hope you chose that latter, but if you do, make sure you read up on the safety measure required to work on electronics appliances and particularly, valve amplifiers.
Great to find your channel searching for a fix for the same amp as mine. Anyway, bought it used a year ago and it would have sound but it’ll crackle and all that. So I bought new tubes, installed them, the crackle seemed to only show up when powered up and would come and go when playing. So fast forward to today and I haven’t powered up/on this amp for a year or so and there’s no output, just static/crackles. I’ve built diy pedals and can solder good. What should I look for to replace or fix the issue. I came across a link on the web and it says that it could be the rectifier diodes and should be replace with 400 v ones. Any ideas? Thanks for your help in advance.
Hi Brad, I have a few of questions. A couple months ago I found a 5150 "block letter" head that was manufactured on January 6, 1992 that I found in front of a salvage bin at my local town dump (Boston, USA). There appears to be some minor spots of rust on the rear of the chassis and somewhat around the output/power transformers, although I've seen much worse with some vintage amps. I couldn't tell you how long it's been sitting there or what's wrong with it, but there doesn't seem to be any water damage in or around the head's cabinet. I opened her up and the circuit board seems pretty solid except for a little rust on a small board that connects the speaker output jack to the chassis. Sorry for the ramble! Now for the questions: First, is there any way I can safely troubleshoot the amp without purchasing expensive electronic repair tools, mind-you I've never plugged in or turned on the amp out of safety concerns. Lastly what the reputation of these amps and is it generally worth it to repair them considering that they are relatively affordable in the states? Also are they cheaply made and do they stand the test of time? Thank you! I'll be sure to subscribe.
Repair to any amp requires specialist test and soldering equipment or you'll do more damage than good. I often get jobs where someone else has tried the DIY approach, and the cost blows out to reverse the physical damage to the PCB from unsuitable soldering equipment. These amps have a following, I don't personally like them, but they do the totally saturated modern metal thing OK. The USA ones are built weirdly, but not cheaply and can be mad pretty reliable. I'd suggest you start reading up on the subject and give yourself time to understand the concepts before diving in. There's a Facebook group called "Tube Amplifier Repair and Diagnosis" that is worth joining to learn more and search for posts relating to that amp.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Thanks for the reply! yeah, I'll probably take it to a local tech to start but I'll be sure to join the group because I've been trying to learn about amp repairs. I'm also looking into getting a Daul Rectifier, but I hear techs don't like to work on them so I'm hoping to learn myself. Again, thanks for taking time out of your day to reply to some random internet stranger. I'll be sure stay posted when new content comes out.
@@thebostonguitarist7886 No worries,check out my Facebook page for detailed repair reports and photos too. I've got a Dual Rectifier on the bench right now, actually. So you'll get to see the guts in detail.
@@BradsGuitarGarage My sympathies, Brad. There's only one amp that's 50% worse to work on thank a Dual Rectifier. I bet you can guess. Good job on your videos, too.
I have a questions: how can I clean the pots from this amp? considering it doesn't have those normal round ones with the little hole where in them, where you can spray the electronic cleaner
I have a 112 6505 and my lead channel has dramatic loss of gain in power but if I go over to my rhythm Channel Plays perfectly fine I don't know what's going on if it's a power tubes or the tubes and it in general or what but I've sunk a good amount of money into it and it's my bands back-up amp and im trying fix it need help man
I'd imagine that's a preamp issue. If you haven't worked on audio equipment before, this won't mean much, but check all rail and valve pin voltages and make sure they are in the ballpark for starters.
The fuses are soldered on the board... sounds like bullshit to me! I experimented you can easily remove hot glue with some alcohol. You should try! That amp is not that well made to me, maybe it's better to buy a Bugera 6262 and replace some crappy components.
This is great to watch please keep bringing the videos always something to learn and to clean up!
I just found your channel. I really like the content!!
Nah it's great content mate. I found you a few weeks back through your Hot Rod repair, where's the second half by the way, I was just getting into that.
Electronics is right over my head, but listening to you break it down an tear into bedroom DIY'ers has been well entertaining an educational. I've got a Hot Rod ii and a Bugera 6262,, both going on well over ten years old an due a decent service. Now I've a better idea what to ask for an hopefully less chance of getting ripped off.
An these long form vids are just what's needed to get through this old Rona lockdown. If you keep making them I'll keep watching mate. Keep your Hakko hot, an the tracers clean Brad.
Brad, I hope you keep making videos. You have a lot of things going for your channel that other techs and DIY people don't---Great personality - Conversational -Good lighting and sound -An edgy No BS attitude (Gotta love Scottish and Australian honesty!)
Most of all, you have this kind of, well, emotive exasperation, like (what the "F" is it now? Argh!) That's actually a great quality for videos. It pulls us viewers into the whole drama of it. And when you instantly reach across your desk and pull out the exact right tool or trick, you really wow the audience.
You might be right about the complexity of some repairs being over the heads of the noobs, but also of no use to the experts...so here's something to consider: Just assume your audience is going to be mostly guitar players with broken gear and kids who might want to do this when they grow up. Personally, I've never watched any of these kinds of tech videos before. My knowledge and experience with soldering is really minimal. But I have a broken 6505 with fried diodes. It appears to be a common problem, so that's what brought me to your channel, and a few others. As a new viewer of this kind of content, I'm really curious about all the tools you have, what they do, etc. etc. I'm really curious about how you learned your skills, how to work on this stuff safely, how to get started as a beginner--that kind of thing.
You say you're not sure about your content, or how to get more viewers. I'd say you're 90% of the way there. You have the tech skills, the personality, the tools, good production etc. The only thing missing is a few entry level, introductory videos where you introduce yourself, introduce your craft, and give the audience a jumping off point into the world of learning repairs. In between doing these really weird and esoteric repairs (like this glue snot nightmare) you could try to climb down the skill ladder a few notches and give others a helping hand on the journey. Think of a few basic topic videos that effect every guitarist or amp owner. Make sure the video solves that one simple skill topic everyone should have, and if, after that, the video dives off into the bushland for 1+ hour, no problem. The beginner lesson should come in the first 5 minutes. That way you satisfy both the average musician dude, and offer a little more for the eager student. Obviously, there's a ton of value in a complete repair like this one, so don't stop making this kind of video either. The down side of this longer format is that, even if you get through a variety of tech problems, the viewer might not really come away with the skills needed to do them. For instance, I'm made aware that solder-sucking tools exist, paint thinner exists, or that you have all these random tools, but it's still a mystery to the viewer/student how to get to a point where I know what the tools are, which ones are essential, how much they cost, and what they're for. So, I guess, assume that people want videos that can fill in some of the cracks in their knowledge. The big repair job is like this virtuoso performance to marvel at, which is good viewing as is, but we're still wanting a shorter video that says, "This is solder" or "This is how to test a resistor." Or "This is why you don't use the wrong fuse." Or "This part of the repair can kill you." Here's a perfect example of a short, tight, single topic video that rules: ua-cam.com/video/DkEc58-vWc4/v-deo.html
Brad, I know you didn't ask for an entire rant about your content, but I hope you find this comment helpful. Credit to you for making this topic fun and interesting enough to spark my interest and hopefully the interest of many others in the future. If you didn't have the natural personality for entertaining content, I'd never have bothered to type all this. My worry is that people like you might stop making videos, while boring nerds flood the market with unwatchable wankery.
Thanks man. I replaced the diodes with a 1N4004 (400 V forward voltage rating) and it works. Hopefully those diodes are suitable for the long run.
Hi Matthew, the best option is to go for a higher current rated diode, lifted off the board with crimps or ceramic standoffs. I think from memory, the 1N400x series would be okay for their current rating (all voltage ratings are sufficient) but the heat needs to be dissipated more effectively than the factory installation of the diodes being mounted hard to the PCB can offer.
"Hot melt glue" I laughed out loud
Thanks for the video, I've been looking for info about the 6505+ 120w head because mine had no sound. I took a q-tip and some isopropyl and scrubbed out all of the jacks and it's good as new!
Fantastic result! Good work, mate.
You may find that a sliver of manila folder threaded into the jacks shunt contacts and pulled out under tension several times will give you even greater longevity.
Mine will be back in the shop. R7 burned up. Charred a harness so hoping it's just the sleeve and didn't trash the wires as well. Probably should grab a back up seeing how the local shop is always busy and has a three week turn around time at min usually :(
Nice job👍👍 i cant believe they used hot glue haha
great video cant find the second part
Thanks for this excellent video tutorial Brad. Sorry but didnt catch what type and rating bridge rectifier you chassis mounted - something like a KBPC602 Bridge Rectifier Diode 6A 200V? Thanks!
So this is what nasa scientists do on Sundays
Where did you get that black handle fart machine you were using i want one !!!
brad ..on a 5150 the voltages comming out of the transformer to the board in the 3 wire groups i have 33v on the 3 orange 53v on the brown 5.3 on green. are they supposed to be A/C comming out of the transformer? and should one group have more volts than that? your help would be wonderful
Mate, I hate to tell you this, but if you have to ask that, I'd advise you either take the amp to a tech, or get reading on the fundamentals of electronics. I mean this in the kindest way and I hope you chose that latter, but if you do, make sure you read up on the safety measure required to work on electronics appliances and particularly, valve amplifiers.
Great to find your channel searching for a fix for the same amp as mine. Anyway, bought it used a year ago and it would have sound but it’ll crackle and all that. So I bought new tubes, installed them, the crackle seemed to only show up when powered up and would come and go when playing. So fast forward to today and I haven’t powered up/on this amp for a year or so and there’s no output, just static/crackles. I’ve built diy pedals and can solder good. What should I look for to replace or fix the issue. I came across a link on the web and it says that it could be the rectifier diodes and should be replace with 400 v ones. Any ideas? Thanks for your help in advance.
No idea, mate.
I'd need to diagnose it in the flesh.
Hi Brad, I have a few of questions. A couple months ago I found a 5150 "block letter" head that was manufactured on January 6, 1992 that I found in front of a salvage bin at my local town dump (Boston, USA). There appears to be some minor spots of rust on the rear of the chassis and somewhat around the output/power transformers, although I've seen much worse with some vintage amps. I couldn't tell you how long it's been sitting there or what's wrong with it, but there doesn't seem to be any water damage in or around the head's cabinet. I opened her up and the circuit board seems pretty solid except for a little rust on a small board that connects the speaker output jack to the chassis. Sorry for the ramble! Now for the questions: First, is there any way I can safely troubleshoot the amp without purchasing expensive electronic repair tools, mind-you I've never plugged in or turned on the amp out of safety concerns. Lastly what the reputation of these amps and is it generally worth it to repair them considering that they are relatively affordable in the states? Also are they cheaply made and do they stand the test of time? Thank you! I'll be sure to subscribe.
Repair to any amp requires specialist test and soldering equipment or you'll do more damage than good. I often get jobs where someone else has tried the DIY approach, and the cost blows out to reverse the physical damage to the PCB from unsuitable soldering equipment. These amps have a following, I don't personally like them, but they do the totally saturated modern metal thing OK. The USA ones are built weirdly, but not cheaply and can be mad pretty reliable. I'd suggest you start reading up on the subject and give yourself time to understand the concepts before diving in. There's a Facebook group called "Tube Amplifier Repair and Diagnosis" that is worth joining to learn more and search for posts relating to that amp.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Thanks for the reply! yeah, I'll probably take it to a local tech to start but I'll be sure to join the group because I've been trying to learn about amp repairs. I'm also looking into getting a Daul Rectifier, but I hear techs don't like to work on them so I'm hoping to learn myself. Again, thanks for taking time out of your day to reply to some random internet stranger. I'll be sure stay posted when new content comes out.
@@thebostonguitarist7886 No worries,check out my Facebook page for detailed repair reports and photos too. I've got a Dual Rectifier on the bench right now, actually. So you'll get to see the guts in detail.
@@BradsGuitarGarage My sympathies, Brad. There's only one amp that's 50% worse to work on thank a Dual Rectifier. I bet you can guess. Good job on your videos, too.
I have a questions: how can I clean the pots from this amp? considering it doesn't have those normal round ones with the little hole where in them, where you can spray the electronic cleaner
It still wicks into the potentiometer assembly. Just put down some paper towel to avoid spraying it where it doesn't belong.
@@BradsGuitarGarage thank you! So I just spray the cleaner on it from the inside of the amp?
The deeper you go the worser it gits.
I have a 112 6505 and my lead channel has dramatic loss of gain in power but if I go over to my rhythm Channel Plays perfectly fine I don't know what's going on if it's a power tubes or the tubes and it in general or what but I've sunk a good amount of money into it and it's my bands back-up amp and im trying fix it need help man
I'd imagine that's a preamp issue. If you haven't worked on audio equipment before, this won't mean much, but check all rail and valve pin voltages and make sure they are in the ballpark for starters.
@@BradsGuitarGarage got my 6505 back man
1:20:28 lol
It's not actually modded. Mine came like that from factory
Factory bodge, then.
I'll look to see if I can find a service bulletin about it.
@@BradsGuitarGarage Mine also looks the same from the factory :/ glue and everything
The fuses are soldered on the board... sounds like bullshit to me! I experimented you can easily remove hot glue with some alcohol. You should try! That amp is not that well made to me, maybe it's better to buy a Bugera 6262 and replace some crappy components.