Watch more videos. This build is good but there are better ways to do the water valve, create a clean out system, PVC is not UV resistant, and black paint on PVC looks horrible after just a few uses. This build is a good cheap first try at best.
Nice build! If you find the pressure drops too quickly you might also want to consider adding a separate 2' section of PVC, capped on both ends, to act as a pressurized air reservoir. Simply connect an airline to your water tank and you will have more sustainable pressure during water discharge. Schrader valve can stay in place as you just need to add a small airline and fittings to connect the two tanks. Put fitting on top side of pipes to help keep water out of air tank.
Hi Ron, pretty good design .I`ll be doing the same I think....just one difference....the way you put the tap.I have had to replace those taps cause they leak or broke,so in this design Iwill be putting a female fitting at the back instead of the tap, and the tap screwed to it,so if in need to replace it I can do it without breaking anything. good channel you have here. cheers
Osito Lee good catch, the original idea was to put it low so it’s easily accessible from the ground when mounted on the truck. In hindsight it would have been better to locate it on the fill lid.
Nice build! I have a question, why not put the schrader valve on the filler cap instead of the end cap? I noticed some water came thru the valve in your video.
The original idea was to be able to access all components from one location at the back of my truck. In hindsight the schrader valve would have worked better on the filler cap. Thanks for watching!!
There are regular PVC pipes not good for pressure (PVC shatters, doesn't crack so it is actually dangerous) and there is a PVC clearly marked for 220PSI at 23 C temperature.
My friend gave me their pvc shower, but it keeps leaking from the caulk around the valve anytime it's pressurized above 5psi. Does anyone know what materials or adhesives I can use to seal it up to whitstand higher pressure?
Did you use any teflon tape for the screw-in cap? I can't seem to get a good seal there. It would be fine for a shower but it doesn't hold air over a period of time.
Yes, I use Teflon tape to seal the cap as well as an O ring in the bottom of the cap assembly. You are right it would not hold very long without either
Good video, Ron. You rhave the same base ideas as I do. I shall however put the Shrader valve on the fill cap. My pipe is 110mm x 3000mm = 30 ltrs = 6.6 gallons. Two questions regarding pressure; what would you recommend as a max pressure to set the pipe to, and how long does it take for the pressure to drop once the shower is in use?
How much do you pressurize it ? Also would it push out the full 4gal on a single charge or do you have to pressurize it half way through to get the full 4 gal out? Good design
Depending how you water\air fill it, two drain adapters could be used. No mention made of what kind of PVC (there are at least 2) one being unacceptable for higher pressure (per plumbers on other similar sites). Personally, I would have a 30psi max. pop-off instead of the bicycle valve, air exhausted with a toothpick in the pop-off temporarily or valve. Failsafe mounting required unless you can afford prison and the associated lawsuit. Though UV resistant paint is available I would make a white sheet sleeve with velcro that can be easily removed\installed when not needing hot water anytime soon.
He used schedule 40 pipe that is twice as thick as the thinner wall pvc. The thin wall pipe will let the sun heat the water faster and is much less weight to handle and costs less. You want the sun to heat the water, not the pvc material. A very nice video! Thanks
@@johnwren3976 if you are looking for long term, the schedule 40 would be better. The thinner pipe will hold up for years with exposure to intense sun and still hold up to 60psi. The cost of either pipe is minimal, ether way it is an impressive solution.
@@chummllee the thinner pipe is drain pipe and is not rated for any pressure at all. Take your chances if you wish. Pressure increases with water temp.
best solar shower diy video i've seen. and I've watched them ALL. thank you Ron!
Thanks for watching and commenting!!
I agree… and the best water stream
Watch more videos. This build is good but there are better ways to do the water valve, create a clean out system, PVC is not UV resistant, and black paint on PVC looks horrible after just a few uses. This build is a good cheap first try at best.
Thanks Ron! Keep on keeping on!
Great simple build. I'm going to borrow a couple of your ideas and adapt them to a solar shower for my Jeep JK! -Thanks Kyle
Good luck, thanks for watching!!
Thank you very much. one of the best designs I've been looking at. Really appreciate you posting this video.
Thank you for watching and your nice comment.
Nice build! If you find the pressure drops too quickly you might also want to consider adding a separate 2' section of PVC, capped on both ends, to act as a pressurized air reservoir. Simply connect an airline to your water tank and you will have more sustainable pressure during water discharge. Schrader valve can stay in place as you just need to add a small airline and fittings to connect the two tanks. Put fitting on top side of pipes to help keep water out of air tank.
Great idea!!
Brilliantly shot video. Awesome how you transitioned the black paint shot with the mug.
Great build.
Thanks for the nice critique!!
Hi Ron, pretty good design .I`ll be doing the same I think....just one difference....the way you put the tap.I have had to replace those taps cause they leak or broke,so in this design Iwill be putting a female fitting at the back instead of the tap, and the tap screwed to it,so if in need to replace it I can do it without breaking anything. good channel you have here. cheers
Thanks for watching. Sounds like a good modification to make!!
Best one I have seen
great design!!
Adam Barber thanks!!!
Super great video
Thanks for watching!!!
Why put the schrader valve low where it is covered with water and when you put the air hose on it pushes water out?
Osito Lee good catch, the original idea was to put it low so it’s easily accessible from the ground when mounted on the truck. In hindsight it would have been better to locate it on the fill lid.
@@OutdoorsWithRon good question and glad to hear your answer. building mine right now and wanted to do the schrader valve on top for this reason.
Real nice and simple
Thank you! 😊
Nice build! I have a question, why not put the schrader valve on the filler cap instead of the end cap? I noticed some water came thru the valve in your video.
The original idea was to be able to access all components from one location at the back of my truck. In hindsight the schrader valve would have worked better on the filler cap. Thanks for watching!!
Good AND SIMPLE VIDEO LIKE IT
Glad you liked it!
Why didn't you use ABS plastic which is already black? I wish you had shown how you mounted this on your roof racks.
Nice. how quickly and into gallons does air pressure die while showering? How many times you need to reapply pressure?
It hold's the pressure fairly well. When boon docking the showers need to be brief :-)
What's the maximum pressure a PVC pipe can sustain?
There are regular PVC pipes not good for pressure (PVC shatters, doesn't crack so it is actually dangerous) and there is a PVC clearly marked for 220PSI at 23 C temperature.
My friend gave me their pvc shower, but it keeps leaking from the caulk around the valve anytime it's pressurized above 5psi. Does anyone know what materials or adhesives I can use to seal it up to whitstand higher pressure?
id just try adding more silicone, otherwise you might have to cut it out and add another valve/lock nut/washer and silicone that one better.
I'd recommend JB waterweld putty.
Did you use any teflon tape for the screw-in cap? I can't seem to get a good seal there. It would be fine for a shower but it doesn't hold air over a period of time.
Yes, I use Teflon tape to seal the cap as well as an O ring in the bottom of the cap assembly. You are right it would not hold very long without either
Great job like your work can you tell me the pressure rating for the system thanks for sharing
Thanks for watching. I don't know the pressure rating mainly because of the joints and used. Sorry.
Good video, Ron. You rhave the same base ideas as I do. I shall however put the Shrader valve on the fill cap. My pipe is 110mm x 3000mm = 30 ltrs = 6.6 gallons. Two questions regarding pressure; what would you recommend as a max pressure to set the pipe to, and how long does it take for the pressure to drop once the shower is in use?
Good point
Great idea
I thought the thumbnail was some antique elephant cannnon.
😂😂
Add a simple pressure guage. 👍
John Wren Good idea!!
How much do you pressurize it ? Also would it push out the full 4gal on a single charge or do you have to pressurize it half way through to get the full 4 gal out? Good design
Hi Ron - where did you find the flat ended PVC schedule 40 cap? I can only locate the curved caps and can't get a seal around the spigot. Thanks
I think I got it from Home Depot. See this link www.homedepot.com/p/NDS-4-in-PVC-Sewer-and-Drain-Cap-4P06/100172701
The thumbnail for this video reminds me of a Punt Gun.
😂😂 you are right!! Thanks for watching!!
As a reference, how much air did you put in? What was the final pressure you felt comfortable with?
I went to 30 PSI
Is this 4" diameter pipe or 6"? I really like your design. Going to use a similar design, but mine will be mounted in a 5' truck bed.
Hi, I used 4" pipe. Thanks for watching!!
Depending how you water\air fill it, two drain adapters could be used.
No mention made of what kind of PVC (there are at least 2) one being unacceptable for higher pressure (per plumbers on other similar sites).
Personally, I would have a 30psi max. pop-off instead of the bicycle valve, air exhausted with a toothpick in the pop-off temporarily or valve.
Failsafe mounting required unless you can afford prison and the associated lawsuit.
Though UV resistant paint is available I would make a white sheet sleeve with velcro that can be easily removed\installed when not needing hot water anytime soon.
One thing, with only one removable opening there's no way to clean it out efficiently.
Agreed, you have to get creative in finding a solution. I've found that filling it half way with water and cascade and shaking it up works well.
He used schedule 40 pipe that is twice as thick as the thinner wall pvc. The thin wall pipe will let the sun heat the water faster and is much less weight to handle and costs less. You want the sun to heat the water, not the pvc material. A very nice video! Thanks
But, this will last much longer in the sunlight, pressure and heat
@@johnwren3976 if you are looking for long term, the schedule 40 would be better. The thinner pipe will hold up for years with exposure to intense sun and still hold up to 60psi. The cost of either pipe is minimal, ether way it is an impressive solution.
@@chummllee the thinner pipe is drain pipe and is not rated for any pressure at all. Take your chances if you wish. Pressure increases with water temp.
How do you know he used schedule 40 PVC? Correct me if I'm wrong but it looks like he used simple DWV pipe, no???
@@cpincpersonal you can tell by the thickness.
Shheeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeeee😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎🤓😎🤓😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎😎