I just wanna say cyano doesnt care about flow, I have it very well established in a 20 gallon with well over 1000gph blowing through it and zero dead zones. The only thing that can dislodge it is you have your water create an actual whipping motion, but you are not killing it because it can survive with next to no existing light, you are just telling it to go live elsewhere in your aquarium. To further go down those myths algae is no direct competitor, I did my best to setup the tank with massively lush green hair algae and green dust algae and i even let some diatoms in, but guess what, in less than a week the cyano had even established itself on very high flow glass sides, using the GDA as an anchor to feed itself from the current. Flow is a just a food delivery service, think about it for 5 seconds lol. The GDA was also well alive under it but no longer thriving which was then a threat to my inhabitants which had less healthy food space to graze on. I also noticed that sometimes chunks of cyano that may have been dislodged through a fish going too close and touching or maybe some other stuff.... that chunk would get caught by the green hair algae and again use that strategic placement to propagate rapidly. Also the phosphates and nitrate stuff at 0ppm is not good especially if you are the type of person that likes plants, because that means you are actively starving your current plant mass, causing them to enter a state of growth deficiency, hence a weak plant, incapable to combat or hold their ground against anything. So... don't sit on it, deal with it. Use the slow methods at the very least but do it right. Or....... you can take your tank out the back and set it on fire with a flamethrower, I hear it works but havent tested it myself. 😅🔥🤪
Great video. Too many people still think it's some sort of hard to control algae. Ultralife makes a great product for the "blue green" in freshwater tanks.(You should never mix it directly in the tank. Always premix it) I've never used the red stain remover for my B/G but I've used the Chemiclean for red Cyanobacteria in my brackish tank. It uses a LOT of O2 in the process, so an airstone is essential for maximum effectiveness. (I've seen fish die due to O2 deprivation in addition to the treatment not working properly.)
Another good product made by Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain Remover. You actually see it working within a few hrs because you can see the bobbles on the algae and oxygen is the slime killer. The next day it was gone. I've recommended it to other youtubers and they all had good results. It comes in a box with spoon just like yours.
Great vídeo man. I actually had a few runnings with this bacteria, and it ain't fun to say the least. What I discovered through the years is that Cynobactiria feeds not only from the light it self, but also from poor water circulation which is what you mentioned in this video. I have never used chemicals to get rid of it, I have only minimize light time and definitely use a bit more circulation in my aquariums. This has worked for both, my saltwater and freshwater tanks.
I have 2 filters in my tank. A 600L/hr canister and a sponger filter. They are at opposite ends of a 60L tank. I also have a pair of nurseries on the back, and no dead spots in the tank. I had cyanobacteria in spades. I used this Chemiclean stuff, and it was awesome. Tonight is the water change after the second dose, and then to see how well it stays under control. I did everything, and there is no ONE things that causes cyanobacteria. I took the fish out, and starved the tank, I put the fish back and fed the tank, I turn on lights, I turned off lights. it just kept coming back. So now we see what the upshot is. I also dosed my hospital tank as the driftwood with cyanobacteria on that in there in antibiotics. It was a mess.
Great vid. It's interesting to see how many different solutions there are to this problem. I like how you explained the cause and affects of CB and that regular maintenance can prevent too.
I need to try this stuff because my 8 gallon Fluval tank is a mess with this stuff. I have a very low tech planted tank. I believe it was you who had a video about the tank. It’s an 8 gallon fluval that came with a rock looking 3D background, some fluval stratum and those little bottles of Co2 with that ridiculous bubble counter. It was made for planting. I don’t have an air stone of any kind in the tank and I suspect that could be part of the problem but I’m going to give this stuff a try.
Thanks so much for helping me with this problem. It was so bad that I was thinking of quitting the hobby entirely. I really didn't think product would work as effectively as it did. Within 48 hours of using the Chemiclean things really started to improve. It is so strange that the company that produces this product don't market this product for freshwater tanks.
i used it in my 29 gallon and it worked like a charm...... mine did come back about 8 months later and just treated today again....i think the active ingredient is erythromycin.
fingers crossed I haven't had that particular problem yet...but good to know how to treat it if it ever pops it's ugly little blue green head up one day.
I am pretty sure that when we do a water change and clean it up that being a bacteria we leave microscopic amounts behind. It looks clean but in actuality its still there, and then it quickly breeds and is back again....DAMN YOU STINKY GREEN CRUD, but this stuff kills it till its dead.
I have 125 gallon South American cichlid tank. Cyano out of control. Got most cleaned up. I also have a sunshine pleco in there. Can I treat with seachem and not remove fish????
It's so weird how much different this stuff acts in a tank compared to a pond. Based on how it's acting I would have thought this was green algae but I guess something is cleaning off the surface. I'm assuming the theory is that this was planktothrix or anabaena?
Yeah I use the product from Ultra Life.Blue-Green Slime Stain Remover. Put it in, add an airs tone to help circulate the product best and let it go like that for a couple days. Works very nice.
Nice useful video. I normally fight cyanobacteria with water changes, but this time I need a little extra help. Hopefully this works for me as well as it did for you.
@@StanTheObserver-lo8rx It did help. I used it in combination with water changes and trying to balance the fertilizers. It's been a year, so I can't remember what my exact combination was, but I think it was reducing fish feeding, treating the tank, and 20% water changes every three days for two weeks, and I adjusted my lighting. I basically tried to reset the tank bit by bit over two weeks.
It worked. It took about 5 or 6 days..but before then I saw most of it on plants disappear and the algae only stuck doggedly to the sand surface. Eventually,that went away. So, $3.99 for a cure on a 240 gallon is a bargain. One for Pecktec. Just when I thought I knew it all..ha..
Ok so I'm battling with this beast and it's driving me insane I can't add an external filter because of where the tank is and I have a few questions for you ...... Once you start using this treatment do you have to keep using it ? If you stop using it will it come back ? The transition looked good though and I am impressed but worried of the product is just hiding the issue ..... I'm currently cutting down on feeding and lights to help with mine but I think circulation is my main issue now .... Thanks for the video
+PsychedelicBabe well so far it seems like it's been blasted away. I rearranged some stuff but have still never really changed anything. It would definitely be worth a shot. Even if I did need to treat it again it's easy enough to add it in a day or so before the weekly water change. I was a bit surprised this worked as well as it did.
It looks like just a garden variety hang-on-back filter with the top removed and plants stuck in there to act hydroponically to remove nutrients from the water column which might be extra and used by both regular algae and the cyanobacteria were those plants not in the filter. Floating plants like duckweed, giant duckweed, frogbit, red-root floaters etc will do the same kind of thing to keep overly abundant nutrients at bay.
It says on it, safe for all fish and snails etc....no need to remove your creatures. I hope that's true because I just treated mine! I have a huge pond airstone in it and 2 little powerheads too, ruffling up the surface, to keep the O2 up. Hoping for it to clean the crud in my planted tanks gravel really. That's what it's supposed to be good for also.
Any antibiotic will kill it. Some are better then others..but when you get the one that's broader...you know it works when the dead algae turns orange in 24 hours..after that it dissolves. I've done that for the last 30 years.
@@sepeherfarzaneh9064 The very best is..to lower the light level and then give the tanks a good cleaning of the gravel and filters. AS best Last resort use antibiotics. I used Myosin years ago. I cant remember if it was 1 or Myosin 2. Use the wrong one and nothing happens..the right one and its like 24 hour death on the algae.
I'm fighting bga right now in my 5 gallon betta tank. I was a dummy and didn't research it before it got outta control, assuming it was just harmless algae. Not gonna make that mistake again! I'm doing a partial blackout and hydrogen peroxide at a little less than 1 ml per gallon for a couple days, but i just got some chemiclean today so if that doesn't work i'll use it instead. Wish me luck!
I’m thinking chemiclean is more for saltwater use I would have just used hydrogen peroxide one ml per gallon works just great it turns into O2 in you water and you can literally see the cyano fizzing up and melt away. I have done this in the past with awesome success and no deaths to my fish.
Thanks for sharing. I have to look if they have that here. I just battled this stuff in my tank. I beat it by putting in a air stone and cutting my lights down to 3 to 4 hours a day.
I have to correct myself..I found out the seachem for my size tank is only $4...Erythromycin would be $24 worth. I usually kill off the bacteria for good when I do..but in my big tank with sand,it came back! Mt first try with another non antibiotic treatment didn't kill every last bacterial spore I guess. Trying this today..I will report.
Hmm..chemiclean in 24 hours? Not much change. I'm starting to see why they dont include blue green algae on the box. If this doesn't work.then back to Myocin as in years ago. Expensive..but kills it dead to the last spore. CHEMICLEAN AT $4 was worth a try,but I'm not impressed..yet.
Stan TheObserver you got to be patient. It worked wonders for me over a few days. Without killing the cycle fish or plants. And I have enough left to do it again many times over. Not that I’ve needed to.
Ok,will try. I think I will give it a few more days before I change water..let it do its thing on a 240 gallon tank. No oxygen worries with that tank. I used 80 pounds of white sand as a substrate- not even enough to cover the whole bottom and I think that's still the main phosphate producer. I should have went with gravels. Where the blue green algae starts,is right on the sand. Tells me something Pecktec!
I just finished watching another channel where the guy used the simplest form to get rid of it. Just cover the entire tank for 24 hours and the bacteria died. Very simple, no harsh chemicals that’s all. It worked.
I just wanna say cyano doesnt care about flow, I have it very well established in a 20 gallon with well over 1000gph blowing through it and zero dead zones. The only thing that can dislodge it is you have your water create an actual whipping motion, but you are not killing it because it can survive with next to no existing light, you are just telling it to go live elsewhere in your aquarium. To further go down those myths algae is no direct competitor, I did my best to setup the tank with massively lush green hair algae and green dust algae and i even let some diatoms in, but guess what, in less than a week the cyano had even established itself on very high flow glass sides, using the GDA as an anchor to feed itself from the current. Flow is a just a food delivery service, think about it for 5 seconds lol. The GDA was also well alive under it but no longer thriving which was then a threat to my inhabitants which had less healthy food space to graze on. I also noticed that sometimes chunks of cyano that may have been dislodged through a fish going too close and touching or maybe some other stuff.... that chunk would get caught by the green hair algae and again use that strategic placement to propagate rapidly. Also the phosphates and nitrate stuff at 0ppm is not good especially if you are the type of person that likes plants, because that means you are actively starving your current plant mass, causing them to enter a state of growth deficiency, hence a weak plant, incapable to combat or hold their ground against anything. So... don't sit on it, deal with it. Use the slow methods at the very least but do it right. Or....... you can take your tank out the back and set it on fire with a flamethrower, I hear it works but havent tested it myself. 😅🔥🤪
LOL Yes burn it with fire. Thanks for sharing your observations. I mostly just add that chemiclean and its gone pretty quick.
Great video. Too many people still think it's some sort of hard to control algae.
Ultralife makes a great product for the "blue green" in freshwater tanks.(You should never mix it directly in the tank. Always premix it)
I've never used the red stain remover for my B/G but I've used the Chemiclean for red Cyanobacteria in my brackish tank. It uses a LOT of O2 in the process, so an airstone is essential for maximum effectiveness. (I've seen fish die due to O2 deprivation in addition to the treatment not working properly.)
Another good product made by Ultralife Blue Green Slime Stain Remover. You actually see it working within a few hrs because you can see the bobbles on the algae and oxygen is the slime killer. The next day it was gone. I've recommended it to other youtubers and they all had good results. It comes in a box with spoon just like yours.
Yep, great product. I have used it a couple times. Simple, easy to use.
Great vídeo man.
I actually had a few runnings with this bacteria, and it ain't fun to say the least.
What I discovered through the years is that Cynobactiria feeds not only from the light it self, but also from poor water circulation which is what you mentioned in this video. I have never used chemicals to get rid of it, I have only minimize light time and definitely use a bit more circulation in my aquariums. This has worked for both, my saltwater and freshwater tanks.
I have 2 filters in my tank. A 600L/hr canister and a sponger filter. They are at opposite ends of a 60L tank. I also have a pair of nurseries on the back, and no dead spots in the tank. I had cyanobacteria in spades. I used this Chemiclean stuff, and it was awesome. Tonight is the water change after the second dose, and then to see how well it stays under control. I did everything, and there is no ONE things that causes cyanobacteria. I took the fish out, and starved the tank, I put the fish back and fed the tank, I turn on lights, I turned off lights. it just kept coming back. So now we see what the upshot is. I also dosed my hospital tank as the driftwood with cyanobacteria on that in there in antibiotics. It was a mess.
Great vid. It's interesting to see how many different solutions there are to this problem. I like how you explained the cause and affects of CB and that regular maintenance can prevent too.
I need to try this stuff because my 8 gallon Fluval tank is a mess with this stuff. I have a very low tech planted tank. I believe it was you who had a video about the tank. It’s an 8 gallon fluval that came with a rock looking 3D background, some fluval stratum and those little bottles of Co2 with that ridiculous bubble counter. It was made for planting. I don’t have an air stone of any kind in the tank and I suspect that could be part of the problem but I’m going to give this stuff a try.
Thanks so much for helping me with this problem. It was so bad that I was thinking of quitting the hobby entirely. I really didn't think product would work as effectively as it did. Within 48 hours of using the Chemiclean things really started to improve. It is so strange that the company that produces this product don't market this product for freshwater tanks.
I just used some in my big tank too. It works great.
i used it in my 29 gallon and it worked like a charm...... mine did come back about 8 months later and just treated today again....i think the active ingredient is erythromycin.
fingers crossed I haven't had that particular problem yet...but good to know how to treat it if it ever pops it's ugly little blue green head up one day.
I've had great success with this product! highly recommend it to anyone dealing with BG algae!
I am pretty sure that when we do a water change and clean it up that being a bacteria we leave microscopic amounts behind. It looks clean but in actuality its still there, and then it quickly breeds and is back again....DAMN YOU STINKY GREEN CRUD, but this stuff kills it till its dead.
I have 125 gallon South American cichlid tank. Cyano out of control. Got most cleaned up. I also have a sunshine pleco in there. Can I treat with seachem and not remove fish????
Yeap that's what I do.
It's so weird how much different this stuff acts in a tank compared to a pond. Based on how it's acting I would have thought this was green algae but I guess something is cleaning off the surface. I'm assuming the theory is that this was planktothrix or anabaena?
Yeah I use the product from Ultra Life.Blue-Green Slime Stain Remover. Put it in, add an airs tone to help circulate the product best and let it go like that for a couple days. Works very nice.
Great product. It worked for me a few times last year too.
My LFS guy recommend this for a betta with popeye and it works. It has antibiotics in it but it says it doesn't to detour human consumption.
you definitely had to pre mix it in your little cup you got in "my aquarium box". love all your vids
+LY O oh yeah! I totally missed an opportunity there!
Nice useful video. I normally fight cyanobacteria with water changes, but this time I need a little extra help. Hopefully this works for me as well as it did for you.
Did it work?
@@StanTheObserver-lo8rx It did help. I used it in combination with water changes and trying to balance the fertilizers. It's been a year, so I can't remember what my exact combination was, but I think it was reducing fish feeding, treating the tank, and 20% water changes every three days for two weeks, and I adjusted my lighting. I basically tried to reset the tank bit by bit over two weeks.
It worked. It took about 5 or 6 days..but before then I saw most of it on plants disappear and the algae only stuck doggedly to the sand surface. Eventually,that went away.
So, $3.99 for a cure on a 240 gallon is a bargain.
One for Pecktec. Just when I thought I knew it all..ha..
Perfect timing, my tank is having a cyanobacteria meltdown. I'll definitely give this a try!
Ok so I'm battling with this beast and it's driving me insane I can't add an external filter because of where the tank is and I have a few questions for you ...... Once you start using this treatment do you have to keep using it ? If you stop using it will it come back ? The transition looked good though and I am impressed but worried of the product is just hiding the issue ..... I'm currently cutting down on feeding and lights to help with mine but I think circulation is my main issue now .... Thanks for the video
+PsychedelicBabe well so far it seems like it's been blasted away. I rearranged some stuff but have still never really changed anything. It would definitely be worth a shot. Even if I did need to treat it again it's easy enough to add it in a day or so before the weekly water change. I was a bit surprised this worked as well as it did.
What is that plant holder in the tank behind you called? I need one
It looks like just a garden variety hang-on-back filter with the top removed and plants stuck in there to act hydroponically to remove nutrients from the water column which might be extra and used by both regular algae and the cyanobacteria were those plants not in the filter. Floating plants like duckweed, giant duckweed, frogbit, red-root floaters etc will do the same kind of thing to keep overly abundant nutrients at bay.
Can I do the treatment even with fish in the tank? I’ve been having this problem for months now and have tried everything but chemical treatment.
Yeah I have done it a few times. Just follow the directions on the bottle.
pecktec it is ok with shrimps?
Tank looks great!
What should I do if this ever happened to me, but I only have one aquarium?
It says on it, safe for all fish and snails etc....no need to remove your creatures. I hope that's true because I just treated mine! I have a huge pond airstone in it and 2 little powerheads too, ruffling up the surface, to keep the O2 up. Hoping for it to clean the crud in my planted tanks gravel really. That's what it's supposed to be good for also.
Any antibiotic will kill it. Some are better then others..but when you get the one that's broader...you know it works when the dead algae turns orange in 24 hours..after that it dissolves.
I've done that for the last 30 years.
-
@@sepeherfarzaneh9064 The very best is..to lower the light level and then give the tanks a good cleaning of the gravel and filters. AS best Last resort use antibiotics. I used Myosin years ago. I cant remember if it was 1 or Myosin 2. Use the wrong one and nothing happens..the right one and its like 24 hour death on the algae.
I'm fighting bga right now in my 5 gallon betta tank. I was a dummy and didn't research it before it got outta control, assuming it was just harmless algae. Not gonna make that mistake again! I'm doing a partial blackout and hydrogen peroxide at a little less than 1 ml per gallon for a couple days, but i just got some chemiclean today so if that doesn't work i'll use it instead. Wish me luck!
I’m thinking chemiclean is more for saltwater use I would have just used hydrogen peroxide one ml per gallon works just great it turns into O2 in you water and you can literally see the cyano fizzing up and melt away. I have done this in the past with awesome success and no deaths to my fish.
That’s great! These work in a very similar way. However the effect lingers a bit longer. I had great results in fresh water and it never came back.
For how many days you need to repeat this
my anubias turned black on some of the leaves. Is that from poor circulation?
Thanks for sharing. I have to look if they have that here. I just battled this stuff in my tank. I beat it by putting in a air stone and cutting my lights down to 3 to 4 hours a day.
+Aaron Jones in the past I had been able to do something like that adding circulation. But this one was really stubborn.
Thanks for the info man. Haven't ran into this issue yet.
It says right on the box that it’s erythromycin
What's a good low power filter for a betta tank?
I have to correct myself..I found out the seachem for my size tank is only $4...Erythromycin would be $24 worth. I usually kill off the bacteria for good when I do..but in my big tank with sand,it came back! Mt first try with another non antibiotic treatment didn't kill every last bacterial spore I guess.
Trying this today..I will report.
yes thanks, I got some cemiclean. It's kind of funny cause i learned abt cyanobacteria in Biology right before it totally overtook my tank 😅
Hmm..chemiclean in 24 hours? Not much change. I'm starting to see why they dont include blue green algae on the box.
If this doesn't work.then back to Myocin as in years ago. Expensive..but kills it dead to the last spore. CHEMICLEAN AT $4 was worth a try,but I'm not impressed..yet.
Stan TheObserver you got to be patient. It worked wonders for me over a few days. Without killing the cycle fish or plants. And I have enough left to do it again many times over. Not that I’ve needed to.
Ok,will try. I think I will give it a few more days before I change water..let it do its thing on a 240 gallon tank. No oxygen worries with that tank.
I used 80 pounds of white sand as a substrate- not even enough to cover the whole bottom and I think that's still the main phosphate producer. I should have went with gravels. Where the blue green algae starts,is right on the sand. Tells me something Pecktec!
Black hair algae is what I need to defeat in a couple spec 5. Anyone try this product on black hair algae?
black hair algae is never fun to take on
Otto catfish gobble it up I keep 6 to 8 in a 55gal. Have killed it all
Good video
It really IS actually that bad :(
I just finished watching another channel where the guy used the simplest form to get rid of it. Just cover the entire tank for 24 hours and the bacteria died. Very simple, no harsh chemicals that’s all. It worked.
That doesn't always work. If it works for you great.
first comment and 1st like
video starts at 2:19