Watch a non-load bearing wall being constructed. See how to stack the wall studs with floor joists and what a typical door opening should look like. Learn more at: ezhangdoor.com...
I am a 15 year old assistant working with a 20 year vet of construction and I have learned how tough it is but I sure admire you guy's skill. Stange thing I've never met a nasty contractor they all are good friendly people God bless you and may you succeed in this tough ecconomy for builders are one of the careers no matter how bad it gets there will allways be a demand for them
Well said MThomasEsql. I actually found this video informative. I am a home handyman, needing to enclose a garage door opening, so thank you ezhangdoor. Your videos are great for people like me. Two thumbs up.
Very nice video. I just started building a shed/greenhouse and want the walls to be up to code. Besides a lot of reading, videos like this make the process look easy.
Tip. Mark your window and door openings 1st, on the 1-1/2" part of the 2x. then mark your studs. That way you can see the maks when you nail the studs to the top and bottom plates while standing up. Been doing it for 42 years, still doing it! I started out without nail guns, all hand nail.......Yep, older than dirt. LOL!
good video my friend, I am a young aprendis. and I think your work is good. I installed insulation, fiberglass insulation. spray foam too. I learned something today, thank you
This is a video created for people who want to learn and not for those who want to nit pick the steps taken to build a wall. If you believe something is wrong then create your own video and look at it constructively. I am sure someone will find something wrong with the video you could create on UA-cam. Listen to the builder and try and learn that the body can only take a certain amount of abuse. I am sure you will find this out when you get older. Thank you - M Thomas
For marking plates we usually just nail the plates together and mark out the studs on the sides, then when you're ready to frame you pull the nail connecting them out (it's only 3/4 of the way nailed in) and you're ready to go.
You're so right, construction is hard on a body. I have caught a lot of flack in the video for framing on my knees. The truth is I did frame bent over for years (and much faster) but that took its toll on my back. As you age you look for ways to work smarter, or at least a little less harder on the body. Age is one of those things that will catch us all....
EZ-Hang Door true that ! Rough frame for life ! Why the bags in front though ?? Hammer need's to be good with both hands . end of the day personal preference
I actually have been doing construction for over 25 years. We sometimes do add our top plate, but we have found it to be somewhat advantageous to install after the walls are in place. This takes the hassle out of over-lapping plates and we get tight fitting plate joints. One guy cuts and another walks the walls and nails. Just a preference of ours. As far as the crouching goes, it's a back issue, mostly mine...as you age it takes it's toll bending over. I used to be faster a few years back...
@KidRockland A rough opening for interior doors should be 2" wider than the door you will be installing and 82-1/2" high. So if you installing a 36" door you will need a 38" wide opening.
A non load bearing wall does not need a header if it doesn't carry any weight. If you are placing joist over the opening, then it becomes a load bearing opening, which needs a header as you described. The framing in the video has a truss roof system with no weight on the interior door openings.
A concrete floor would not change how the wall is built other than a treated bottom plate would be required. You would however need to fasten the wall to the floor with concrete nails or Tapcon screws. The exterior walls would require anchor bolts placed in the concrete every 6' min. or per your local building code.
I don’t have any unnecessary criticism to add to this video, it’s informative to someone in search of basic framing education, so don’t understand any nitpicking comments, but will add that some of you may find it easier to build your walls standing up, and much quicker
@ezhangdoor Toenailing is alot stronger than face nailing, its a lot better with lift-off of the studs, usually only 2 nails face nailed in a 2x4 compared to 4-5 toe nails. it all comes down to how you build your walls, on my crew we nail the plate right to the floor then toe-nail into double top plate and stand walls and then toe-nail into bottom plate.
What are you using for your exterior walls (2x4, 2x6)? If it's 2x4 just put two 2x20 together then a 2x4 plate flush with one side later put the part of the header with the plate facing down so that it would make a top "sill". You may already have your house done but for any one else I hope this guys you an idea.
Hey, the question is not directly related to this video, but I wanted to ask you anyhow since the question popped up during the “framing walls” video. The question will be about connecting walls, straight walls not intersecting walls. Say we’re building 40 foot long wall. Obviously this length is not available in lumber. We build it up by parts. Option one : we break the top plate on the stud and connect the next piece on that stud as well, and the double top plate laps over 4 feet as normal. Option 2. We break the top plate between studs and then there is the connection ( between studs ) and then the double top plate overlaps the connection 4 feet. In the nutshell: do we connect between studs or on the center of the studs? Which is more common? I’ve seen bot of them. Thanks Péter
Peter, you are correct that it can be done either way. I’ll try and give my opinion on both methods as I have used both. Joining over the single stud eliminates a stud and keeps the wall cavity the same size for installation of fiberglass batt insulation. The disadvantage is it can be weak until the top plate is added. The advantage to studs on the end is the strength created by being able to face nail the two studs together; and you would use an extra stud every wall you join. Disadvantage is the smaller wall cavity space for less insulation or cutting fiberglass to fit, along with the need to caulk the two studs for air infiltration. Either way works, it seems to be more a preference thing.
EZ-Hang Door my questions are probably driving you nuts, I apologize, but please be kind and answer me one more question that I’ve been wondering about. For the sake of argument let say I have a wall ( exterior wall) 2x6 with double top plate that holds a floor ( ceiling ) joist system nailed 16 in oc. I need to put a roof over the walls. Spam of the building is 22 feet, rafter I’m going to go with is 2 x 8 Should I space ( simple gable roof 8/12 pitch) the rafters 24 in oc or go with the more common 16 in on center spacing? ( third option 12 inches seems too “tight” for the first look) Thanks so much Have a hive day, Péter
@@peterbalazs1537 Unfortunately the answer to the question really depends on other factors. The climate you live in, the Building Code you are constructing under, wind loads, seismic factors if any, location of the building (exposure factor), and if the structure could represents a loss of life (ie a garage or home etc..) You would need to verify the code in your location. There are span tables in the code book that give spacing tables based on a number of factors. Those could be snow, the width of the building (span), the size of the board, even the species of the wood being used. All of these factors play a role in rafter sizes. This is why engineered trusses have become so popular. For example I live in an area that gets snow in the winter. While a 2x8 spf 24" o.c. could work in a southern or warmer climate, it may not work here. This one isn't a preference answer like the wall studs, it's more of an engineering- safety issue. Hopefully that explains your questions.
EZ-Hang Door thank you very much for taking the time explaining me the details. I understand it, and since we really don’t have general code for this kind of a structure ( in Europe we use bricks most of the time ) I will contact an engineer who will be able to check the details and make calculations and modifications according to the results. Thanks so much against for your time and for your help! Best regards Péter
@MrShannon888 Your correct, OSB doesn't take moisture as well as plywood. That being said, there are some higher grade OSB sheathing that will resist moisture quite well. The problem is the price is also quite higher. As far as joist hangers, most codes require hangers on most connections now. There are a few expections with regaurds to 2x dimensional lumber and the number of joist carried. Best advice, use hangers on everything.
I think nailing jacks or trimmers to the bottom plate helps keep them from twisting or moving when drying out, or moving when the seasons change. Just my opinion.
@4livo If you can find a stud behind the drywall attach to that. There should also be top and bottom plates in the existing wall that you should be able to attach to.
Do you have or would you be able to do a video to show toe nailing? when doing it i dont feel like i have the best control over the wood, just wondering if there are better ways of toe nailing than how im doing it.
I like the hardcore 9-5ers who collect a weekly check talk and about how they are know it alls and faster and more hardcore than a lot of other tradesmen. I've always been quality not quantity and also realize that every job gives different situations and sometimes taking it slow to really figure something out is always the better way to go. I stopped collecting paychecks along time ago and now build my own houses, keep, and often rent out or sell on land contract. Now I'm building my 5,500 sq ft dream house at age 43. I've always worked steady and smart, not hardcore quick and stupid with my money. Remember, construction is permanent, so make sure it's done right. Save and invest the hard earned money my fellow tradesmen.
@hovh03 noggins or blocking is not required per our building code. Our area code requirement is for a 90 mph wind speed. That's pretty light considering most other areas.
@VAxHUNTER94 The L shaped piece actually will work for both interior and exterior corners. A big advantage to using them on the exterior vs. nailing blocking to two other studs, is it allows for insulation to be added in the corner after the house is framed and dry.
If you can find a stud behind the drywall attach to that. There should also be top and bottom plates in the existing wall that you should be able to attach to.
You could try and remove them from the top and bottom plates, the problem may be how well they are attached to the wall sheathing. If they are bad anyways, try hitting them with a sledge hammer.
@MrShannon888 In new construction I would recommend face nailing plates to studs. It's much faster and my opinion just a strong. However, if space is limited, such as a basement where you wouln't have clearance to raise a wall, then toenailing is the way to go.
I usually go ahead and nail my top or double plate on the wall, before I raise them, when I mark corner's and partitions I make a three and a half mark and hold the plates an eighth back , and pick the straightest lumber so lining the wall is easier, this way I'm only on a ladder in the corner's and partition to nail off!! it locks everything together on top when you connect walls and makes it easier to frame alone,
@MrShannon888 An angled nail, or a "toe nail", does hold better because you are creating shear. But as long as you space your nails apart while face nailing them to the plate, then that will be good as well. If you don't spread your nails far enough apart, the stud will still be able to twist.
This is a video created by another person but the fact remains and that is some people become critical without really knowing what they are getting into or they forget about the basics. Thank you - M Thomas
usually, its a good idea to put the crown of a jackstud down, and nail it to the kingstud. that way the opposite crows cancel eachother out, and they will be alot straighter
@stevetibcar Actually OSB can wave as well. There are different types of OSB and only some of them are not affected by water. Anyway, it is much better than plywood (again - there ar special plywoods designed for floors).
I wonder they they don't add diagonal noggins to the code. It doesn't have to run the whole height, just about 3 feet. Instead of putting the piece the same width of the 2x4 (3.5 inches), do it the other way, so you have some room for continued insulation. Also, doing that way is stronger laterally (shear force). Most of the winds push the house in that direction.
don't nails have greater shear strength than screws? you bend a screw past a certain point and it snaps. My house was built in 1847 and it's holding up very well
Great question! there is no header because the wall is an interior, NON-load bearing wall. Engineered trusses span across the building and walls inside the building have nothing bearing on them. Therefore, using a thick header material designed to carry loads would be a waste of money.
After reading the comments , yes this guy is slow & low, but this video is for first timers...I've framed for over 12 years in n. Atlanta,,,boy is my body broken down from all that hard , hot work......The expensive homes there all have 2x10 headers , not 2x4 blocks...
7thDayofGrace when you stand it rack it plumb and nail it in place...only time a wall needs to be squared is if your putting ply on it and nailing it off.
Nice try but there were errors .# 1 nailing studs into sole plate should not have both of the nails close to the center . Rotational center = studs have a higher likelihood to twist , #2 , Never transfer a layoff from an unstabilized point .. ie . when transferring layoff to plates from a point of origin , like a plate nailed down to a chalk line .. It is stabilized .. but a header/cripple layoff should not come from a possible twisted stud in he "Field " but come from the remainder of layoff
I am a 15 year old assistant working with a 20 year vet of construction and I have learned how tough it is but I sure admire you guy's skill. Stange thing I've never met a nasty contractor they all are good friendly people God bless you and may you succeed in this tough ecconomy for builders are one of the careers no matter how bad it gets there will allways be a demand for them
How you hanging now?
Well said MThomasEsql. I actually found this video informative. I am a home handyman, needing to enclose a garage door opening, so thank you ezhangdoor. Your videos are great for people like me. Two thumbs up.
Very nice video. I just started building a shed/greenhouse and want the walls to be up to code. Besides a lot of reading, videos like this make the process look easy.
Tip. Mark your window and door openings 1st, on the 1-1/2" part of the 2x. then mark your studs. That way you can see the maks when you nail the studs to the top and bottom plates while standing up. Been doing it for 42 years, still doing it!
I started out without nail guns, all hand nail.......Yep, older than dirt. LOL!
by the time this dude finishes this house it will be ready to be renovated!
good video my friend, I am a young aprendis. and I think your work is good. I installed insulation, fiberglass insulation. spray foam too. I learned something today, thank you
I totally agree. And I alternate between standing and on my knees. Still gets the job done quickly and gives the aching framers back a rest. ;-)
This is a video created for people who want to learn and not for those who want to nit pick the steps taken to build a wall. If you believe something is wrong then create your own video and look at it constructively. I am sure someone will find something wrong with the video you could create on UA-cam. Listen to the builder and try and learn that the body can only take a certain amount of abuse. I am sure you will find this out when you get older. Thank you - M Thomas
The only think I found wrong it’s your comment..
For marking plates we usually just nail the plates together and mark out the studs on the sides, then when you're ready to frame you pull the nail connecting them out (it's only 3/4 of the way nailed in) and you're ready to go.
Very nice work. I know nothing about construction but I think its pretty cool.
You're so right, construction is hard on a body. I have caught a lot of flack in the video for framing on my knees. The truth is I did frame bent over for years (and much faster) but that took its toll on my back. As you age you look for ways to work smarter, or at least a little less harder on the body. Age is one of those things that will catch us all....
EZ-Hang Door true that ! Rough frame for life ! Why the bags in front though ?? Hammer need's to be good with both hands . end of the day personal preference
I actually have been doing construction for over 25 years. We sometimes do add our top plate, but we have found it to be somewhat advantageous to install after the walls are in place. This takes the hassle out of over-lapping plates and we get tight fitting plate joints. One guy cuts and another walks the walls and nails. Just a preference of ours. As far as the crouching goes, it's a back issue, mostly mine...as you age it takes it's toll bending over. I used to be faster a few years back...
@KidRockland A rough opening for interior doors should be 2" wider than the door you will be installing and 82-1/2" high. So if you installing a 36" door you will need a 38" wide opening.
A non load bearing wall does not need a header if it doesn't carry any weight. If you are placing joist over the opening, then it becomes a load bearing opening, which needs a header as you described. The framing in the video has a truss roof system with no weight on the interior door openings.
A concrete floor would not change how the wall is built other than a treated bottom plate would be required. You would however need to fasten the wall to the floor with concrete nails or Tapcon screws. The exterior walls would require anchor bolts placed in the concrete every 6' min. or per your local building code.
Chris rocks says that box framing is the way to go!!!
man this guy is very good! accurate. fast. tradesman.
Amen brother amen. There are a lot of critics with no real critique!
I don’t have any unnecessary criticism to add to this video, it’s informative to someone in search of basic framing education, so don’t understand any nitpicking comments, but will add that some of you may find it easier to build your walls standing up, and much quicker
@ezhangdoor Toenailing is alot stronger than face nailing, its a lot better with lift-off of the studs, usually only 2 nails face nailed in a 2x4 compared to 4-5 toe nails. it all comes down to how you build your walls, on my crew we nail the plate right to the floor then toe-nail into double top plate and stand walls and then toe-nail into bottom plate.
What are you using for your exterior walls (2x4, 2x6)? If it's 2x4 just put two 2x20 together then a 2x4 plate flush with one side later put the part of the header with the plate facing down so that it would make a top "sill". You may already have your house done but for any one else I hope this guys you an idea.
Very much from scratch and very helpful!
I think you're exceptional, I enjoy what's you're doing here
Do
Hey, the question is not directly related to this video, but I wanted to ask you anyhow since the question popped up during the “framing walls” video.
The question will be about connecting walls, straight walls not intersecting walls. Say we’re building 40 foot long wall. Obviously this length is not available in lumber. We build it up by parts.
Option one : we break the top plate on the stud and connect the next piece on that stud as well, and the double top plate laps over 4 feet as normal.
Option 2. We break the top plate between studs and then there is the connection ( between studs ) and then the double top plate overlaps the connection 4 feet.
In the nutshell: do we connect between studs or on the center of the studs? Which is more common?
I’ve seen bot of them.
Thanks
Péter
Peter, you are correct that it can be done either way. I’ll try and give my opinion on both methods as I have used both.
Joining over the single stud eliminates a stud and keeps the wall cavity the same size for installation of fiberglass batt insulation. The disadvantage is it can be weak until the top plate is added.
The advantage to studs on the end is the strength created by being able to face nail the two studs together; and you would use an extra stud every wall you join. Disadvantage is the smaller wall cavity space for less insulation or cutting fiberglass to fit, along with the need to caulk the two studs for air infiltration.
Either way works, it seems to be more a preference thing.
EZ-Hang Door thank you very much for the answer I appreciate your help thanks again have a nice day
EZ-Hang Door my questions are probably driving you nuts, I apologize, but please be kind and answer me one more question that I’ve been wondering about.
For the sake of argument let say I have a wall ( exterior wall) 2x6 with double top plate that holds a floor ( ceiling ) joist system nailed 16 in oc. I need to put a roof over the walls.
Spam of the building is 22 feet, rafter I’m going to go with is 2 x 8
Should I space ( simple gable roof 8/12 pitch) the rafters 24 in oc or go with the more common 16 in on center spacing? ( third option 12 inches seems too “tight” for the first look)
Thanks so much
Have a hive day,
Péter
@@peterbalazs1537 Unfortunately the answer to the question really depends on other factors. The climate you live in, the Building Code you are constructing under, wind loads, seismic factors if any, location of the building (exposure factor), and if the structure could represents a loss of life (ie a garage or home etc..)
You would need to verify the code in your location. There are span tables in the code book that give spacing tables based on a number of factors. Those could be snow, the width of the building (span), the size of the board, even the species of the wood being used. All of these factors play a role in rafter sizes. This is why engineered trusses have become so popular. For example I live in an area that gets snow in the winter. While a 2x8 spf 24" o.c. could work in a southern or warmer climate, it may not work here. This one isn't a preference answer like the wall studs, it's more of an engineering- safety issue. Hopefully that explains your questions.
EZ-Hang Door thank you very much for taking the time explaining me the details. I understand it, and since we really don’t have general code for this kind of a structure ( in Europe we use bricks most of the time ) I will contact an engineer who will be able to check the details and make calculations and modifications according to the results.
Thanks so much against for your time and for your help!
Best regards
Péter
Very detailed and informative video. Thanks for sharing.
@MrShannon888 Your correct, OSB doesn't take moisture as well as plywood. That being said, there are some higher grade OSB sheathing that will resist moisture quite well. The problem is the price is also quite higher. As far as joist hangers, most codes require hangers on most connections now. There are a few expections with regaurds to 2x dimensional lumber and the number of joist carried. Best advice, use hangers on everything.
Nice selection of videos graham lee
This is very informative and answered a lot of my questions. thanks for posting.
Thank you very mch for the info, you make it look so easy. I need to get my husband into to help me with this.
I think nailing jacks or trimmers to the bottom plate helps keep them from twisting or moving when drying out, or moving when the seasons change. Just my opinion.
@4livo If you can find a stud behind the drywall attach to that. There should also be top and bottom plates in the existing wall that you should be able to attach to.
GOLDEN RULE.. BOTH HANDS BEHIND THE TOOL . BASICS
Bob Watson you really have a low IQ
Do you have or would you be able to do a video to show toe nailing? when doing it i dont feel like i have the best control over the wood, just wondering if there are better ways of toe nailing than how im doing it.
I like the hardcore 9-5ers who collect a weekly check talk and about how they are know it alls and faster and more hardcore than a lot of other tradesmen. I've always been quality not quantity and also realize that every job gives different situations and sometimes taking it slow to really figure something out is always the better way to go. I stopped collecting paychecks along time ago and now build my own houses, keep, and often rent out or sell on land contract. Now I'm building my 5,500 sq ft dream house at age 43. I've always worked steady and smart, not hardcore quick and stupid with my money. Remember, construction is permanent, so make sure it's done right. Save and invest the hard earned money my fellow tradesmen.
@hovh03 noggins or blocking is not required per our building code. Our area code requirement is for a 90 mph wind speed. That's pretty light considering most other areas.
@VAxHUNTER94 The L shaped piece actually will work for both interior and exterior corners. A big advantage to using them on the exterior vs. nailing blocking to two other studs, is it allows for insulation to be added in the corner after the house is framed and dry.
If you can find a stud behind the drywall attach to that. There should also be top and bottom plates in the existing wall that you should be able to attach to.
WOW. Nice!!! Same way when I do my basement?
You make it look easy....
The L shaped piece goes in the corner. It provides solid blocking to connect the walls together and a nailing face for drywall.
@ezhangdoor what nail gun do you use, and is good on the roof. I'm looking for a light weight and powerful nail gun.
What size nails are you using in video? Are they staples? What nail gun do you recommend?
The L shape peice.. is that the same as a corner post or no? cause a corner post is 2 2x4's with 3 - 8" 2x4 blocks in it. Or is the L for interior?
Hello
What nail gun do you use, is it light and good using on the roof?
What type of nailer are you using and what gauge nails are typical for framing?
Thanks for the video! I found it helpful (far more so that the comments criticizing it).
You could try and remove them from the top and bottom plates, the problem may be how well they are attached to the wall sheathing. If they are bad anyways, try hitting them with a sledge hammer.
@MrShannon888 In new construction I would recommend face nailing plates to studs. It's much faster and my opinion just a strong. However, if space is limited, such as a basement where you wouln't have clearance to raise a wall, then toenailing is the way to go.
I usually go ahead and nail my top or double plate on the wall, before I raise them, when I mark corner's and partitions I make a three and a half mark and hold the plates an eighth back , and pick the straightest lumber so lining the wall is easier,
this way I'm only on a ladder in the corner's and partition to nail off!! it locks everything together on top when you connect walls and makes it easier to frame alone,
@MrShannon888
An angled nail, or a "toe nail", does hold better because you are creating shear. But as long as you space your nails apart while face nailing them to the plate, then that will be good as well. If you don't spread your nails far enough apart, the stud will still be able to twist.
@TeerTheSlayer The wood thickness is 1-1/2" x 3-1/2". It's a standard 2x4 you can purchase at any lumber yard.
This is a video created by another person but the fact remains and that is some people become critical without really knowing what they are getting into or they forget about the basics. Thank you - M Thomas
what thickness wood is that? i'm wanting to build a ferret enclosure (starting off with chicken wire) before improving it to wooden walls in time :)
@SemperPromptus Nails should be 16d minimum length of 3 inches. Always use nails, not staples.
This is great, I enjoyed very much.
Good luck
usually, its a good idea to put the crown of a jackstud down, and nail it to the kingstud. that way the opposite crows cancel eachother out, and they will be alot straighter
@stevetibcar Actually OSB can wave as well. There are different types of OSB and only some of them are not affected by water. Anyway, it is much better than plywood (again - there ar special plywoods designed for floors).
I wonder they they don't add diagonal noggins to the code. It doesn't have to run the whole height, just about 3 feet. Instead of putting the piece the same width of the 2x4 (3.5 inches), do it the other way, so you have some room for continued insulation. Also, doing that way is stronger laterally (shear force). Most of the winds push the house in that direction.
don't nails have greater shear strength than screws? you bend a screw past a certain point and it snaps. My house was built in 1847 and it's holding up very well
Great question! there is no header because the wall is an interior, NON-load bearing wall. Engineered trusses span across the building and walls inside the building have nothing bearing on them. Therefore, using a thick header material designed to carry loads would be a waste of money.
@2:00 a corner block was made. Where did that get attached in this video and what time in the video can I see it? Thanks
this is why i am quiting college and just doing a trade in construction. love carpentry. don't need college for this
@ezhangdoor 16d for 2x4 construction?
excellent tutorial. Thank you!
Así o más despacio?
Le falto madera muerta en las ventanas para el plywood
where is the L shape piece placed? wasnt very clear on that
@mrkbjm No, Building Code in America does not require noggings (blocking) in a wall unless it is over 12 feet in height.
What about a cement floor? I am totally new to framing and want to learn. Thanks!
How wide is the opening in the for an intrior door?
BUEN VIDEO.
Is how they did it in the 1920s? Our house was built in the 1920s I always wondered how did they do that back then lol
Nail through the bottom plate and into the floor joist below. Don't just nail into the subfloor as that is normally only 3/4" thick.
After reading the comments , yes this guy is slow & low, but this video is for first timers...I've framed for over 12 years in n. Atlanta,,,boy is my body broken down from all that hard , hot work......The expensive homes there all have 2x10 headers , not 2x4 blocks...
scottgixxer67 no seas cuuloon
can someone tell me how to attach the frame to the floor thing? do i just nail it?
How do you make sure the wall you've built is square and level to itself and not slanted?
7thDayofGrace when you stand it rack it plumb and nail it in place...only time a wall needs to be squared is if your putting ply on it and nailing it off.
I'm not understanding most terms here but very interesting.
They are somewhat...normally 4" brick veneer on the exterior of wood frame construction.
framing on your knees?
I need this guy to do my house!!
EXCELLENT VID
buenos videos
construccion
#1
@zyler24 some peoples backs dont allow for bending over all day. he is thorough in his work and it gets done right. thats what matters
Is it hard to become a General Contractor?
Trey Gordon Good advice, and I would definitely throw in reading and learning the relevant building codes in your area.
What do you mean by crown up?
even if not load bearing you need some header once you place joist or any roof bracing watsoever it will sag and crack sheetrock seen it plenty
cant find a video detailing the door framing
Nice try but there were errors .# 1 nailing studs into sole plate should not have both of the nails close to the center . Rotational center = studs have a higher likelihood to twist , #2 , Never transfer a layoff from an unstabilized point .. ie . when transferring layoff to plates from a point of origin , like a plate nailed down to a chalk line .. It is stabilized .. but a header/cripple layoff should not come from a possible twisted stud in he "Field " but come from the remainder of layoff
Thank you very informative
wonderful
Que tipo de madera es ? .
What kind
of Wood Is?
Pino
thank you, great video! :D
Need help c 986:3184 ! Jr,. e. 810.
I'm looking for a fr
Check out the new square n tape from fastcap
@vlineguy Very good tips... I also do that sometimes. When I have someone cutting for me I just stand on top of the walls and nail the plates down.
If my back hurts in getting on my knees.. simple as that and i will work just as good.
Thx that was usefull to me
Thanks for the info.
Does anyone know where can I find that nail gun that makes no noise? Lol ! 😜
buenos videos
construccion
Well I would never use chipboard in my building. Might be considered safe for many but I took agriculture classes and know what it is made of.
same thing except your header is made another way. its made by you locale code in your area
Geez, what a bunch of know it alls here. Can never go more than a few comments on UA-cam without the "experts" chiming in.