How to Build Decking for a Hot Tub
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- Опубліковано 24 сер 2024
- In today's video I will be showing you how I recently built decking for our hot tub over a 7 day period, and I'll be passing on all the lessons I've learnt through the build.
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Scroll down for my Hot Tub Decking Tips #
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Today's Toolkit UK
- Galvanised wheelbarrow with puncture proof wheel. It's best to buy one of these from your local DIY store, or builders centre, rather than on-line. Try and get one with a puncture proof wheel, or if not available, retro-fit one as it will save you so much hassle in the long run.
- Pick & mattock with 7lb pick axe handle Pick mattock 5 lb geni.us/FbT6vpm (Amazon) (this one has a fibreglass handle and slightly lighter head than mine)
- Post digger geni.us/fMTmXR (Amazon) (I haven't used this but it seems to have pretty good reviews)
- Spade geni.us/Ae8JQ (Amazon)
- Gorilla wrecking bar geni.us/cxBuBV (Amazon)
- Line marker spray geni.us/90Va3Z (Amazon)
- String geni.us/RKntg (Amazon)
- Trowel geni.us/mPOEot (Amazon)
- Remix Post Mix Concrete bit.ly/3jiPQI3
- Sand and gravel 25kg bag bit.ly/2FQfRQr
- Cement bit.ly/2FSH6Kh
- Glazing packers geni.us/yJ8My8 (Amazon)
- Decking screws geni.us/ph5YVRk (Amazon)
- Wood screws 6x120mm geni.us/GkhVvg (Amazon)
- Wood screws 5x100mm geni.us/ZNw7pDb (Amazon)
- Weed matting geni.us/8pSXA (Amazon)
- Irwin Quick Grip Clamp 36" bit.ly/2EaC6QJ
- Yorkshire/ gravel board
- Sawn, tanalised 6x2" timber - but you should probably use C16/ C24 graded 6x2" joists
- Sawn, tanalised 4x4" timber, 9 ft lengths for pergola posts
- Single bevel sliding mitre saw or universal saw geni.us/x8zF2A (Amazon)
- Stanley V Groove Saw Horses bit.ly/3gjSRWj
- Erbauer impact driver bit.ly/2qEoKoT
- Bricks
- Soil tamper geni.us/4gjo7 (Amazon)
- Bituminous Paint bit.ly/2Qh1Ixt
- 4 pack stainless steel rodent mesh geni.us/dZQ2yp (Amazon)
- Work gloves geni.us/qYm8H (Amazon) (not the exact ones I used but I can't find those on-line and these have pretty good reviews)
* The Amazon links above are affiliate links. It doesn't cost you anything to click on them but I do earn a small commission if you do.
And here's the legal bit I have to state: As an Amazon Associate I earn from qualifying purchases.
HOT TUB DECKING TIPS
- Use C16/C24 graded 6x2 tanalised timber
- 305mm joist centres
- Footings 800mm to 1000mm apart
- Measure diagonals to check deck's square
- Take all Weatherproofing steps
WEATHERPROOFING STEPS
- make deck slightly sloping
- ensure joists are raised off ground
- bitumen sub-structure & decking underside
- allow a minimum 5mm gap between deck boards
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Charlie DIYte
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#decking #hot #tub - Навчання та стиль
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Apologies to anyone who's already watched this video today and is wondering what's going on. I took the video down because there was an audio problem at 8 minutes (entirely my fault as I raised the audio to compensate for the blustery conditions without realising the upload would massively distort it). Unfortunately I've had to delete the comments I had received, so I've reproduced them below. Thanks so much to you all for taking the time to comment and impart to the rest of us your wisdom. For me, it's the life blood of this channel, so PLEASE keep them coming!
C4sp3r
Something that may be of use in the future is some Anti Slip decking paint. I had to paint a "play" boat at my brother's kids school years ago and we thought we would give it a try. We were very surprised about how much extra grip it offered. I can't remember which brand we used but it was from B&Q so one of the main big brands no doubt. Really enjoyed this video and all the information in it. I saw in another comment you said you should look to cut the length of your videos down, please don't they are full of useful information and the mistakes made are as useful as the stuff that goes right as it helps others avoid the mistakes. Keep up the great videos! Oh and thanks also for including the costs, a lot of people don't do that in their videos.
Mark Valentine
You are one of the best on YT Charlie. Detailing everything warts and all is so helpful. Your silicone detailing vid was a game changer for me. Keep up the great work.
Jon Giles
thanks for being honest about the mistakes and re-hashes! There will always be more than one way to do things and I enjoyed seeing what you put together
Craig Herriot
Your talents are endless Charlie. Looks fantastic as always. Really admire your willingness to get stuck in whatever the task.
Nigel Williams
Another job well done Charlie !
Garviel Loken
Another fantastic Vid!!!!! your vids give me full confidence to carry out the jobs myself. Before i start a job, i always check your channel first and about 99% of the time you have a tutorial and better way to it
Du7cH
Hi Charlie great job fella, Just done mine very similar but using hangers and edged with 3.6m sleepers do you have any plans on doing anything solar with the pergola roof for heating the hot tub? Seems most of the electrics and pump etc could go under the rear deck boards.
Shaun Jones
Great job Charlie and thank you for showing the learnings made as part of the build
E M
Really like that you show us the mistakes as well; great video.
Mat Davies
I like the honesty Charlie and willingness to change your mind = admirable.
Toffee
Only 5 mins and hooked, you always seem to undertake projects the majority of decent diy’ers could do, not sure how and end up paying a builder 000’s to do. Great channel
Grant Adamson
I built a large deck and it's perfectly level too. It's been fine for over 20 years and looks as good as new. The only thing I would have done differently is put the groove side down and the smooth side up.
Garry Clover
Grant Adamson agree the boards are upside down , always been told the grooves should be in contact with the bearers to allow any water to flow away and not rot the bearers or the boards were they mate together , cheers , garry from downunder in Australia
Thomas Baker
Did this project about 10 years ago for my hot tub. I used bricks but didn't cement them in so can simply lift deck if i wanted. The upshot of this meant it has developed a very slight slope which has helped with drainage. 10 years on it is still in top nick. I also did my edges the same which has not caused any problems yet. Great channel, Charlie.
Nicola Bray
Charlie, I swear you really are a mind reader😳 I decided 2 weeks ago that we wouldn’t be holidaying this year so I thought about using the money to deck a bit out my backdoor! Then you upload this👏🏻😂 So thank you fir another fantastic video🙌🏻 Unfortunately my garden really isn’t big enough for a hot tub, however, I now think I’m definitely gonna attempt this decking🙋🏼♀️ Please pray for me🤣🤣
Andrew roberts
Charlie you did great, always build level. you defiantly have over built but that's no bad thing, i always staple dpc to the top of the supports and have done for 15 years of building decks. my only concern is painting the timbers in bitumen as this might not allow them to breath properly and could cause them to rot from the inside ? but having never done that i will be interested to see what happens in the future, so all in all a great build. PS i always mitre my corners to hide the deck ends it makes for a more professional finish.
Ballygarran
You’ve done almost everything you can to stave off the threat of rot. Decks should last about 20 years if well constructed. Keep it clean because they become slippery as f**k if left I like the pergola version you have. Ideal for clip on canvas shade or something more substantial.
Brendan ford
1 hour ago (edited)
Every one frames round their deck. Leaving ends showing looks diy. I’ve built many of decks with facia the same and picture framed the top and never had any issues, if you want something to last almost forever use composite boards but this means more joists or hardwood but this equals more cost too. Also try using a tool called camo it means your boards will be hidden fixed and spaced correctly
Grant Adamson
I built a large deck and it's perfectly level too. It's been fine for over 20 years and looks as good as new. The only thing I would have done differently is put the groove side down and the smooth side up.
I thought that audio problem was intentional to keep us awake during a long video! :D just joking, your video was interesting enough to keep me awake.
I must also admit that digging ground is one of the most physically demanding tasks!
dOESN'T MATTER! Still watched again!!!
My comment was important, please add it to the list mate
Can you repeat it, mate? Might have fallen through the stools when I deleted the vid.
Thanks Garviel. I knew I could rely on you! It's a bit short on views since I deleted it so your extra 1 is very much appreciated!
I really appreciate that you talk about mistakes and things you would do differently. It's very educational. 👍
Thanks Mike. I was a bit nervous about it, but ultimately very pleased I did, and generally we all learn a lot more from seeing the mistakes, than a flawless vid which leaves you questioning whether other approaches would work just as well.
Your an all round good DIY er 👍
Hi Charlie, I have no intention or desire to ever build a deck for a hot tub, but I love watching your well produced videos. Great stuff.
Cheers from Australia. 👍👍
Hi Charlie ... without trawling through 230 comments I don’t know if this has been mentioned, I have been in the building trade myself for the last 25 years, you asked if there are any tips that people could pass on to you, I will bullet point a few tips that I use when I install posts
1: paint the sides of the post that will be underground but not the bottom
2: Bore a 25/30 mm hole into the bottom of the post about couple of inches deep
3: lay a couple of inches of gravel in the bottom of your posthole.
These three steps stop water ingress at ground level and the hole and unpainted bottom and gravel allow any water that soaks in aboveground to gradually drain out of the bottom of the post.
Keep up the good work your videos are very well executed and I have picked up a few tips myself from them 👍
If you’re using Postcrete, though, then the gravel etc will be completely encased in the postcrete so will serve no purpose in drainage. I can see the benefit if not using it though
@@isyt1 the gravel is in the bottom of the hole & the concrete/post rest will be on top of the gravel
@@EmsillCazm With postcrete you pour in water and then add the postcrete. Any gravel underneath the post would be completely encased inside the postcrete as it settles due to gravity
@@isyt1 🤣🤣🤣🤣 you’ve obviously never used postcreate
@@EmsillCazm many times. You’ve obviously not read the instructions
Hi Charlie great build,Even the pro's get it wrong iv been chippieing for 22 years and at the moment I'm replacing a deck I did about 13 years ago,And by studying where rot originated my next deck should hopefully achieve 20 plus years,I'm currently 3/4 of the way through the sub structure of 50 sq m deck which is just shy off 2ft off ground,
Your on the right track only thing I would say is pop some gravel under the fascia rip,I can see you left a gap underneath which is good but it will fill over time with soil,better fill the void with gravel now,
I would also vent every joist space,my deck I enclosed after a few years and this was the beginning of the end for it,
We're only just catching up with the Canadians and Americans on deck installing,Enjoy the tub
Agree totally with your comments,, been in and around the trade (now retired) 40 years and latterly helping friends and family repair and replace fence and decking, sadly treated timber will rot 12-15 years is good. Home grown fencing grade perhaps 8-10 years. You only need to cut a section of 'treated' timber to see how shallow the penetration is. However always enjoy Charles videos and never stop picking up ideas from him, interesting to see the d i y take on construction.
Thanks Dean, Vic. Always good to see a bit of a conversation going on in the feed. A couple of thoughts. Firstly, I understand tanalised timber isn't nearly as good as it used to be when, if I'm not wrong, arsenic was one of the constituent elements. I agree with what you say about penetration - 5mm if you're lucky. Do either of you have any views on the comment that's popped up quite a few times in this feed since I posted the video - that I've put the decking the wrong way up. Clearly the manufacturers intended it to be this way up as a) it assists with run off and b) maintains grip when the deck becomes a bit weathered, and c) would look wrong if the two small grooves on the underside were instead facing up. However a lot of people are suggesting the right way to construct is grooves down to minimise the amount of deck wood in contact with the joists beneath and to assist with run off.
To be quite honest I usually lay the deck boards deep grooves on the underside,I think it's a bit presumptuous to say that's right or wrong,I tend to lay my decks level so I just see it as a place for water to sit,But I have built quite a few fishing pontoons which were specified a decent slope and grooves up,So if I was to build in falls I would utilise the grooves,However for me use the grooves as relief cuts making the board more stable,
What I have noticed as well is that quick grown timber seems to suck the tanalith up deeper than slow grown timber up to 8mm penetration on wide growth rings and 2 to 3mm on slow grown not sure what effect this will have just food for thought,
I think you done a great job with a considered approach the substructure 9 times out of 10 will not out last the deck boards anyway
@@CharlieDIYte Yes totally agree with Dean , grooves down for me plus don't over sink the fixing screws. I know composite boards are expensive- but becoming slightly cheaper and look to be a better long term prospect.My sons took over my/our domestic client base a good few years ago but I do still feel a degree of responsibility towards those who have suffered rot, having constructed many many square meters of decking I must say a good pressure wash early Autumn and treat with Cuprinol or similar should help.Its all about air flow and cleanliness. Also dont leave mats, dog baskets etc etc around..Joists/beams are not immune to rot or decay but perhaps due the the small surface area which could trap moisture are less of a problem.
Another great video Charlie. What I love is you’ve been honest and transparent about the things you realised didn’t work. Looks awesome!
Hi Charlie, fantastic tutorial. I'm nearly finished on mine and thought I would share a tip that has saved quite a bit of time digging out the neverending footings for the joists. I bought a ground Auger drill bit for about £12 and this broke the back of digging the holes in super quick time. Thanks again for this excellent content and keep up the great work.
Thanks Richard. That's a great tip. I'll use that next time. My problem here is, after years of conifer growth, the soil was just so powdery, even my post digger didn't work because the soil just fell out the bottom. 👍🏻
i appreciated that you didn't try to hide your errors or more accurately what you later learned. I also over-engineer builds, in part to over compensate for a lack of knowledge. I did go to college for painting and decorating over 40 years ago. The most vulnerable part of your wood is the end grains. I would have had a small bucket (paint kettle) with some clear wood preservative in and as I cut and fitted the noggins I would have just dipped the end grains in the preservative first.
Thanks mate. Great tip! You and me both, on the over compensating for lack of knowledge 👍🏻
I'm planning my own 5m x3m decking in the UK and this is the best guide I've seen...thankyou.
Thanks Kesh, really appreciate that 👍🏻
I've installed lots of decking and this is how I fit the boards.
Start off with the a nice straight board and align it with the the most visible edge. Screw this down with 2 decking screws every joist, drive the screws in at least 5 mm under the wood, the wood wll fur up when wet and cover the screw heads. For spacers use 90' brackets about 3-4 mm thick (note that your decking will shrink over time and you will end up with up a larger gap even though you used a 3-4mm spacer when you fitted it) lay the brackets on the first piece you fitted to form a spacer between the board you have fitted and the next one. Take the next board and offer it up, if it's straight it will be obvious against the spacers, if it's bowed turn it so that the bow goes away from the first piece you fitted. Start at one end and push board against the spacer and screw it down, move along to the middle (make sure you have spacers every couple of feet) use an old chisel and hammer the chisel into bite on the joist at an angle to the underside of the board you are fitting, then use the chisel as a lever to force the board against the spacer, while you are holding it in place screw the board down. Go back to the other joists between the two places you have fixed and screw them down. Now go to the end and repeat the process, this method will make sure you get the bows out of your boards and you dont need any clamps or special tools. Note that sometimes the spacers get jammed between the boards but just tap them up with a hammer from the underside and you will be able to remove them, once you get a feel for it you will not be forcing the board so that the spacers are so tight you need to do this. Hope this helps someone.
Many thanks for taking the time to pen such a comprehensive comment 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Thanks Charlie, love your video's. the first one I ever watched was all about sealant and profile tools. I must say that before I watched your video, every sealant job I did always ended up as a mess. After watching your video and buying the profile tools I'm much better at it and no longer put the job off for fear of making a mess. I'm sure I'm not the only one who gains a lot from watching your videos, thanks for making them and sharing the knowledge.
you should make a video on these points? :)
The pros don't build it as good as this! Great to see you back with another video!
Thanks buddy, and really good to hear from you again 👍
Another fantastically informative video Charlie, your humility and honesty really makes your videos win through. Never change.
Thanks Matthew, I really appreciate that 🙏👊🏻
Thanks for this video, I'm looking at doing this myself, I always feel like no matter how much I prepare for a project like this (Watching videos, pricing everything up, drawing etc.) It always goes wrong in some way! It's really useful to be able to refer back to videos like this throughout the process
James, that's in the past. Take it slowly, step by step, and you'll nail it. Any questions along the way, drop me a comment.
This is guy is brilliant. I'd pay him any asking price to complete DIY work around my house. Great channel and brilliant content 👍
Thanks Hajir, I really appreciate that! 🙏
Fab project and love the fact that you discuss errors and ways forward. I completed a project for our yard this year and used slightly smaller timbers 4 x 2 as resting on concrete and lots of supporting legs. I also finished the sides same way as you did as I didn't want to see end grain. It's not moved so happy, but if we move and have a garden I'm nicking your ideas 👍 Good work, love following your projects.
Thanks Ivan, I really appreciate that. Sounds like you did a good job there 👍🏻
Thanks Charlie for your honesty in owning up to your mistakes. I had to laugh since I've made worse mistakes without admission!! I've learnt a lot
Thanks Alan. The DPC was a bit dumb though 🤦😉
Nice to see someone using as many basic tools as possible. Loved the concrete tamper.
Thanks Nick 👍🏻
Hi Charlie, recently got into your videos, learning lots, thanks.
I've built a few decks over the years, but being permanently skint and as tight as they come , always done them cheap.
Currently our Lazy Spa hot tub is sitting on a deck made from Wickes gravel boards. Always find them cheaper than decking, less slippery in winter, and long lasting.
Unfortunately last summer decided to paint top of boards in creosote, the smell lasted ages, wife was not happy! Strangely I like the smell.
Couple of tips to lower your hot tub costs : make a jacket for it from Wickes Thermawrap to help with wind chill. We also installed an outdoor hot tap, so we can fill hot tub with 40 degree water, save on electric waiting to warm up, gas being cheaper. Even cheaper if your not on a water meter.
Lastly the pump is the weak spot on these. If you live in a hard water area as we do, it's worth flushing pump thru with limescale cleaner monthly.
Some great tips there, mate, thanks. Fortunately I don't live in a hard water area. The main problem I had was with a bacteria that looked like snot - after a summer of continuous use at 40 degrees (the family won't go in it if it's at less than 40!) which I've finally eradicated by draining and then flushing with an anti bacterial agent. For me, the weakest part of this is the cover, which is either over or under inflated, and looses a lot of heat. I'm contemplating buying a new cover but they're a few hundred quid. I'll check out that Wickes stuff though, thanks 👍🏻
In my novice opinion, you did a GR8 job with your structural planning and build. I’ve seen many a decks with hot tubs that don’t have nearly the support you’ve provided. I can tell you’re a guy whose penchant for preciseness is a passion. 👏🏼👏🏼
Charlie, thank for the reply about trim routers including the links. You’re one of my go to people for all DIY matters. Just started working with MDF and found your vids so helpful. Nick
I really appreciate that, Nick 👍🏻 Do you have a lot of existing drill batteries? If not I'd definitely consider the Ryobi (R18 TR-0).
Hi Charlie, I have just completed my first deck construction for a customer 4.25mx 4.0m. I have to say that I watched your videos a number of times before and during the build and I found it invaluable, so thank you very much. I tried to take as many of your learnings into account (painting the frame with bituminous paint before construction). But. I have to say I found the mounting of the bearers onto concreted bricks a real pain. Also, my customer chose Yellow Balou hardwood boards and wanted to have the screws hidden. For this I used a Kreg deck jig, which was very good (maybe have a look at it yourself). Both the customer and I are really pleased with the result, unfortunately I can't attach any photos to show you, which is a shame. But feel free to contact me if you would like to see them. Thanks, John
Hi John, great to hear from you and thanks so much for telling me about this project - humbled you found my vid so useful! Yes the concreted bricks are a complete labour of love. I guess there are other adjustable systems you could try whereby you still set them in concrete but can then adjust the height. They will of course add to the cost though. You're obviously quite a perfectionist - I love the look of that Kreg jig. Presumably you also used their screws? I'd love to see some photos if you could email them to me at charliediyte@gmail.com Thanks again 👊
Just wanted to say thanks for this well made video. You go over it in so much detail it really helps. I have been watching this video in preparation for building a deck for my hot tub with wood burning stove at my second home in Cumbria as soon as the lockdown is over. Just ordered everything I need so I will be ready!
Thanks Matt and good luck with the project. It's a pain to do, but I think the effort you put into bitumening the sub frame will pay off in the long run. Let her know how you get on 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte completed the deck for my hot tub and wood burning stove. The ground had been a farmyard so was full of hardpack, very hard to dig out, but it was very firm and I didn't need to do all the concrete footings. It was also on a slight slope so I ended up moving more than a ton of earth. It looks really good, and I can't wait to fire up the stove. Thanks again for your help.
Loved it... Loved your transparency... I’m completing my first decking project ever. By the end of July 21. Your vid was encouraging
Thanks Ken. There's this one too bit.ly/3gmCMmE and I'm doing a video this weekend hopefully on what oil to use.
I really enjoyed this, and appreciate that you left the "lessons learnt" in! 😁
Here in New Zealand we bury the posts in the ground with concrete also. The posts are very heavily treated (H5) so last perfectly fine. I'd set posts in the ground (with concrete) to support the weight of the bearers, rather than the bricks you used. Not saying that what you did is inadequate, that's just what we do here.
For setting the planks, I like the method where you set the first plank, then measure out and screw down what would be the 7th plank parallel to the first. Then place the 5 loose planks that will fill in that gap, use wedges to ensure you have an even gap across them all & screw them down. This ensures they are all even, is much faster, and makes it less likely that you get out of parallel. If you check out Scott Brown Carpentry here on UA-cam, he has some excellent videos on the method.
Last of all, I'm a strong advocate for having the grooves facing down. They just collect dirt and become a mare to clean. As a consequence they actually become more slippery when wet. I used to work with a guy who worked for some years at a sawmill, and he told me the grooves are actually for ventilation & to minimise wood to wood contact, and are intended to be face down.
Thanks Tim, some truly great tips there. Yes, the post technique is prevalent here also particularly for raised decks, and I'm guessing a heavily treated post with domed concrete is about as impregnable and efficient for run off as you're going to get. I hear what you say about having the grooves face down. I don't actually think its right that they're designed that way, but I can see the rationale for it. The problem with having the grooveless side face up is that all wood gets slippy with time, and you're creating an infinitely more hazardous surface for going head over heels on, than if it was grooved. To keep the grooves clean I give them a blast with my leaf blower every other day. What I might do in the close season is give the deck a coat of sealer and protector. Tanalisation is fine, but it doesn't stop the water from sinking in. To my mind if you can make the deck impregnable to water, then it's not going to develop that slimy surface that we all know and hate!
@@CharlieDIYte Hi Charlie, I don't know if it's the different environment, but I find I just don't get that issue with the slippery decks. That's with treated pine, flat-side up, stained with a water-based stain (I use Cabot's AquaDeck). I try to re-stain every 2-3 years.
I did a large raised deck 2 years ago. It seems that different countries seem to have different ideas about the grooves facing up or down. The UK seems to have them facing up because of grip reasons. Im in the UK and did the grooves facing down. Easy to clean and the water just runs off. Decking can be slippery with the grooves up or down and if it's slippery it needs cleaning. Also, the decking boards swell quite a lot over winter and I made sure there was still a gap between the boards throughout the year.
@@IJ_uk There's plenty of people here in NZ that install them groove-side up also 😁. And I confess there was a time where I thought that was the way it should be done. The other reason I prefer it, is it feels better under-foot. But maybe I'm just being soft!
Groves defintely down. Why people put them upwards is beyond me! Yes, I would like my decking to be uncomfortable to walk on, and hold a ton of water so that it rots really quickly please!
My misses and I purchased an CleverSpa Monte Carlo hot hut (holds 0.96 tons of water) over lockdown as well as we will not be going abroad this year. I too built a decking base for the hot tub, but I found a place locally that sold really good quality reclaimed wood.
I used 4x4 for the base border (used with coachbolts) and 4x2 for the inner base, joists and cross members, I used 4x4 wood for the inner joists supports/footings where you used bricks, landscape membrane sheets, horrible sticky bitumen on absolutely everything 🤣 and decking for the top (with a 5mm gap between each decking plank) and sides. General rule of thumb says that decking slopes should be between 1% gradient (1/8'' per foot) and 2% gradient (1/4'' per foot), I went for 1.5% across an almost 9 foot span which works great. I also overlapped the top decking over the side decking. As our hot tub has built in multi colour LEDs (around the bottom edge) which lights up the whole hot tub nicely. I purchased the same remote kit and receiver from AliExpress and added more LEDs to the bottom of the overlapped decking, it looks great as one remote control all the lights.
Just like you, I too over engineered the decking base with way more support than what was actually needed. But with 0.96 tons of water displacement on the base, I prefer to be safe than sorry. Complete build price of the base was about £350 including all the decking base wood (reclaimed but in excellent condition), all the decking wood (new, I managed to find someone on Gumtree that was literally giving away surplus decking really cheaply as it was taking up space in their newly designed landscapes garden and they changed designed half way through, so ended up with too much new decking wood), screws, wood preservative, bitumen, extra lights and a few other bits and bobs.
Yes I'm a hobbiest but I always make sure to have all the right tool from the off. I used both my Evolution sliding mitre saw and also Circular saw, extra long calibrated engineering square (the base is perfectly square measured 45° corner lengths), spirit level (only for the top edge (not for the 1.5° slope)) and a few other select tools.
A nice session in the hot tub with a glass of wine and some relaxing music can be relaxing and fun at the same time. But wow, heating them up are not cheap 😜
Hats off to you Pete. Sounds like you've completely aced that!! Thanks for the detailed account. Yes my electricity bills are a lot more now, not helped by the fact that my family insist on having it between 38 and 40 degrees!
Hi Charlie, great video. I replaced the inflatable part of my hot tub lid with kingspan (doubled up in the centre). Keeps the heat in much better than air and is much sturdier (but heavier to remove and more difficult to store over winter). I removed the inflatable pocket and cut away the skirt which holds it in place, then just used stixall to glue the lid to the kingspan.
Great idea!
I'm about to do this, Paul as the inflatable lid is getting punctures - a manufacturing defect. Have you encountered any problems - like the foam flaking everywhere and or the foil peeling over time?
@@CharlieDIYte mines been pretty good for a couple of years, go for it. If you can't use a single board then foil tape good for the joints and overlap with a board in the other direction across the joint. Foil does discoulour a bit with the chlorine but nothing major. Foil tape to cover the cut edges also. Not at home to take a photo, apologies.
@@spongefactory Hi Paul, I’m considering doing what you did. By chance, would you have any objection sharing a photo of what your cover looks like? Also, I noticed that there are different types of kingspan. Is there a particular one you used and what size? Thanks! Dave
Great project Charlie... You always do your jobs thoroughly without breaking the bank, and I like that.
Thanks buddy! Yes, I dread to think what this would have cost if I'd got a team of contractor in. 👍
Extremely useful! I just bought the same hot tub and need to do similar decking
Glad to hear it Pete. It's the best one they do in my opinion. I've had to replace the inflatable cover with a PIR board as you'll find it develops punctures but the tub itself is great quality and still going strong 👍
Glad to see you didn't "sink" it into the deck. Need access around the tub for repairs. I liked the video.
Thanks. I appreciate that, particularly coming from someone who knows their stuff 👍🏻
Always enjoy your videos Charlie. You always show everything needed, where from/how much, and what you would do differently next time. Hope you and your family get a lot of enjoyment from it!
Thanks Barrie, I appreciate that. Yes, its been a bit of a life saver this summer, what with lockdown and everything. 👍
Very, very well done. Like you, I would be concentrating on square/level/plumb.
But, I really want to thank you for the "brick on a base of wet concrete" idea. So much easier and faster. I will definitely use that on my Saluspa hot tub deck project.
This video was extremely well done. For that reason, I subscribed. Thanks, again.👍
Thanks, I appreciate that and also the subscription 🙏 Yes, it's a good way to level it. If you bitumen the joists too, it should last many years to come 👍🏻
just a quick tip,put a inflatable blow up ball on top of the water on spa then when you put lid on,water will run off the top of cover,job done brill video
funny. I read that 3 times before I twigged you said ball, not doll...
Great job Charlie. I have just completed my deck, I put DPC on the top of the joists to keep rain from penertrating the timber. Only time will tell if it works.
Great piece once again....informative and entertaining. Run off gradient is a must and doesn't need to be steep. Also if you have trees, hedges etc in the proximity of the deck then the upper side should be treated to prevent moss, lichen or algae build up which can make the surface slippery especially when wet...and as you have the hot tub there will be moisture from getting in/out and overspill etc. Another thing is that instead of the plastic packers between your joists and brick footings I would use reclaimed roof slate....stronger, longer lasting and won't hold moisture. On a raised deck I would advocate 700mm deep holes and the posts bedded on a half a breeze block.....so that's 600mm of post in the ground. Bed with postcrete. Treat all cut ends but if ends are 9n show then Thomson waters ealing will do the trick and dries clear. On the whole though it's a great job👍
Top notch, gave me the stones to try and build my own decking, thanks.
Are you going to dig an underground tunnel from your laundry closet to your shed too? Seriously, good job! I learned a ton!
Thanks. Now that would be cool 😉👍
Charlie, you're a DIY Legend. My go to guy, keep up the good work.
Thanks Cary. I really appreciate your support through watching my vids 🙏👊🏻
Hi Charlie. You used a remarkably similar approach to how I did the floor of my garden gym/office. Used 7N concrete blocks mortared into a bed of MOT1 and as you did levelled them when the mortar was still curing. I worry to this day about not digging deep enough holes for each block though - I only went down about 150-200mm. But it’s been two years now and a hell of a lot of weight on the squat rack and further dumbbell racks on top and the whole structure has held firm and the internal floor is still completely level. I used 5b2 C24 and like you put loads and loads of noggins in to help strengthen it. I did also use heavy duty angle brackets to bolt the joists to the concrete blocks but probably overengineered that as the weight of the gym would never allow the structure to move on the concrete blocks. I did use DPC on each block but as it’s a room rather than just a deck, there was no risk of water getting in from above so I think all good there. The only other long term concern I have is that in order to maximise headspace within the 2.5m height rule, I only allowed a ventilation gap of 50mm under the joists. At some point I will lift up one of the floor boards and PIR to inspect the underside of the joists for evidence of rotting. Was a great lockdown project though despite the scarcity of materials at the time (I recall paying through the nose for the c24!).
Yes that does sound very similar. I didn't go down very far with my foundations either but as with yours it doesn't seem to have moved and it now has a roof. Overkill maybe on the anchoring but peace of mind when it's blowing a gale. Sounds like a fab project. 👍
The audio was no big deal. But glad you re-uploaded as I now get to give you another 👍 😄
Great video. Very informative. I'm still building ours, work and weather hindering the progress...haha. Mine is built from recycled C24 timber from a 10m x 6m raised deck I built 10 years ago. 95% of all the 6x2 and 4x2 joists and decking boards were still perfect, no rot. New deck is 2.6m x 2.3m 200mm off the ground. Like you, I dug out level and laid my main joists (6x2 spanning the 2.3m) on good quality weed membrane with just the one center support on each joist which were supported off the perimeter joists with joist hangers (galvanized twist shank nails holding these in) My 4 corner posts for pergola top are concreted in 450 to 500mm. I've waterproof painted all joists on all sides and all deck boards on all sides. Joists are spaced at 285mm centers with a central noggin and whole decking has a slight slope. Our hot tub is yet to arrive (dont think it ever will!!!) but it seems pretty solid atm with just half the deck boards down. Hopefully it will take the weight of the tub (Paris...1.2 tone when filled) 👍
Hi Mark, great to hear we're on the same page on this. You've gone a bit further than I did with treating the joists and boards, but there's your extra experience coming in! Hope the hot tub arrives. Did you have to buy from ebay like I did?
Hi Charlie, we bought from Nortwest Spas in Burnley but turns out they dont exist so we were scammed 😞
Great video. Thank you for being honest and adding all of the mistakes, as someone who is about to do decking for the first time, this has really helped
Those grooves on tbe decking planks are for drainage. Lay the planks at a gradient so the grooves drain the surface.
Another great job Charlie, always a pleasure to watch and learn, cheers.
Thanks buddy, I really appreciate that 👍
I used a cheap reject decking kit (3m x 3m for somewhere around £300) and several of those quickjack spike feet to hold a layzspa Hawaii hot tub, then painted with fence paint 😂, as it then matches the fences... noggins should be closer as the cheap decking flexes a bit, but it doesn’t get much footfall. Surrounded with blue slate. Built it last year and it is still standing and level. Needed to repaint though as the paint isn’t so robust, but have to clean it anyway as it gets muddy during the winter, so not too much hassle.
Great job Charlie. Love how you are honest about the mistakes you've made. I think the DPC on the belly of the joists is a one of those things where you have to 2nd or 3rd guess it before putting it on. I made the same mistake earlier in the year.
Thanks mate. I think I was heavily influenced by seeing my carpenter mate John's foundations that had dpc but only above the footings, whilst forgetting that those were for a shed. When you're in the thick of 5 days fairly extreme physical labour you sometimes miss the bigger picture!!
Hi, RE your comment about putting it on a gradient - never do this with a hot tub - you'll put stress on the hot tub and if will potentially crack due to stress as there isn't an even balance of the water. That's the reason I'm watching this video as I need to put a deck on top of my patio as I could see it was impacting the structure of the hot tub so I'm going to put a deck on top of the patio and use pedestals to level it up although I do like your bricks and concrete method so might do that instead on the inside.
Thanks David. Yes particularly for the rigid hot tubs I can see that. Plus someone else commented that the gradient would have to be too large for it to be effective in diverting water off it.
Hi Charlie
Love your channel man !
Wish I had seen this post earlier but it seems
During lockdown the world and his wife seemed to be doing decking projects hence the lack of deck boards in all the diy chains ! However we did not one but two and both we made strong enough to take the weight of our hot tub . So we can swap it over depending on preference. Can’t work out how to send photos in comments but if you would like
Some pics just let me know how to send them
Cheers and keep up the great work
Chris
Hi Charlie. Some decking steps for the hot tub would be fantastic!
That's a good point. I'm also going to do a curved bench round it. 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Please do, i’d love to do that to mine but struggling to plan how i’d do it! A DIY vid would be grand!
Good work... as a 30-year fence builder, I'll say that you need a 1.5m-long straight digging bar with a pointed sharpened end, and a flat sharpened end to dig with (or whatever would you do when you hit a hard-smooth tree root blocking your post end 20cm deep???), and when mixing concrete in a wheelbarrow you should be mostly standing at he front facing the back and dragging the concrete and water towards you with a spade shovel, quickly and repeatedly, up the tall front run of the barrel in small bits and the material mixes itself... having workers tossing it around like you were doing just makes a mess and doesn't get to the dry materials in the bottom corners... cheers and best to you!
Nice to see the video got fixed, top quality channel right here, keep up the good work! That decking looks great :)
Cracking job! Really appreciate you including your mistakes! Giving me a lot of inspiration for future projects
I’m thinking of adding a hot tub to my house. This video came at the perfect time
Good to hear it. Go for it - its been a game changer for us!
Quite impressed with your attention to detail! Looks fantastic.
From a fellow DIYer thank you!
You're welcome. 👍🏻
Very informative, thankyou
Myself personally I built my raised spa deck form hardwood I disliked pine passionately!
All my bearers & joists are hardwood as is my merbau decking boards
My posts are steel
Wow. Lovely job 👍🏻
Hi Charlie you could always use a pre emergent weedkiller prior to placing the weed control membrane to further mitigate the risk of weeds / grass growing in future 👍
Once put a shed with my local pub landlord wing it job he said haha when we was finished the bloody thing was straight as a die an may I say some cool videos I've done a few of the things you have showed how to do it my next project is a new shed 👍
Nice vid fella. I’m looking at getting one for my family... subscribed 👊🏽
Thanks mate. Really appreciate the sub 👍🏻
Nice build and some innovative ideas Charlie.....mind the old fingers at 19:20 😉
Thanks Michael. Those saw shots always looks worse on film than they are in reality but I take your point 👍🏻
7 days to complete but how long did the Mrs have to badger you to start it? That's my biggest DIY problem.
🤣👍🏻
As a lay person, answering your question about whether or not you should have made it with a gradient, I’m pretty sure that the hot tub instructions require it to be flat. The amount of gradient you’d need to build in for it to be useful would probably cause issues with the tub having too much pressure on one side. Maybe? I don’t actually know but you’ve done so much water proofing underneath it’s hard to see that there would be much of an issue in the foreseeable future. Plus your beer might roll away.
Thanks Iain. Yes a couple of other people have said that. I think you're absolutely right. It does get a bit of water pooling under the tub, but this video ua-cam.com/video/ZOQ2L1TMayc/v-deo.html should prevent that being an issue.
Very good m8 just about to build a decking for our new hot tub, great that you talked about the mistakes aswell I think you did almost everything I would except I don't think I will paint the underside of the decking boards as I want air to dry them out from all sides. Thanks 4 a good vid 👍
Thanks Tom. Yep, happy I made it level by the way. There's been no problem with it draining off after the rain.
Great video Charlie you inspired me with all your videos to carry out projects that I didn't think I had the skills for thanks once again keep the videos coming.
Nigel, thanks so much for getting in touch - it's comments like that that keep ME inspired to keep creating content. Rest assured the videos will keep coming. They're just a bit less frequent than I'd like at the moment. 👍
I'm building my level decking for our hot tub this year and was wondering how yours is fairing up. Love your channel, keep the videos coming.
Hi Derek, thanks, really appreciate that 👊 It's fairing really well. Have you seen this video ua-cam.com/video/ZOQ2L1TMayc/v-deo.html and next week I'll be showing how I put a roof on it, so watch this space 😉👍
Overcomplicated but I learned a lot! Thanks!
Fair point, but this way you can hone your build and cut out the bits of mine you think are unnecessary 👍🏻
@@CharlieDIYte Indeed, overcomplicated to me as I am a super beginner in DIY. I watch your videos to learn, thanks a lot for sharing!
The dept and diameter of the posts depends on the type of soil and how you use the deck. You cannot say in general x mm diameter and dept. When you are near the water side you need to go deeper, when you have clay or sand ground it is also different.
Thanks. Makes sense 👍🏻
Thanks for posting, I've learnt loads
You're welcome 👍
Great video, try earth auger drill bit next time :) will save your back
Thanks buddy. Yes, I LIKE the look of that 👍
Another great video, I have now made alterations to my plans luckily before I've built the decking.
It would be great if you've done a hot tub maintenance video 😉
Thanks! I need to do a mod on the inflatable cover as it's sprung a load of leaks.
Can I offer one tip" never let your chainsaw come into contact with soil as it will blunt the chain very fast! Fine job on your Decking!
I read this a day late
Thanks for the video. Helped me with some ideas.
I so enjoy watching your videos - inspirational and informative, thank you for sharing!!
Aw, thanks Paula, I really appreciate you taking the time to send me that 👍
Just saw one of your videos from 2017 you've come a long way my friend keep up the good work and education
Thanks mate. Removing the cheesy music was a start 😂 I appreciate that. Thanks for getting in touch.
Love the vid fella. Doing the same myself this week
Thanks, and good luck with the job. Definitely worth doing the bitumen if you have time, preferably before you lay the joists, so you can do underneath them too. Also, if the weather permits, get some seal on the decking. I'm going to do mine this summer (that is, assuming you haven't gone for composite). 👍🏻
Really good video with tons of useful info. Thanks for making it and putting it up 👍
Just watched your project build, a great presented video, no matter any comments from, the I would have done this or that crew' If you are happy, it's safe then it's a job well done!
I've got a 20msq decking and plan to add another 15msq segement. Boards have shot up due to demand & EU additional costs, but compared to composite its still a viable project that most can afford to do even in this economic climate. Anyway, keep the videos coming.
Thanks Paul. Sorry to hear about the price of the boards. I wonder whether, in time we'll source from further afield to out manoeuvre the EU. We're going through a lot of teething problems with the relationship at the moment.
Outstanding!
Thanks 👍🏻
Love all your videos. Sooooo helpful!!! What a legend. Had too laugh tho when you said about the pointing up on the out building. Best wishes to you and happy New year.
Add more water barrels there with a pvc pipe at the top for overflow to another barrel...or two... otherwise you're going to get mosquitos there by the hot tub!
I wouldn't stress the slope for drainage. The boards will shrink fairly quickly and provide gaps between each for water to slip through.
Yes, agreed and I've put a roof on it now ua-cam.com/video/Qnm43xkgXmw/v-deo.html
Hi Charlie. I love watching your educational videos. Infact i always check to see if you have done something first and will learn off you!
Now the hottub is well established has the decking boards become slippy? Or has the chemicals in the water stained the decking?
Thanks so much. No the decking still looks great, although it wasn't very happy with the PIR insulation I put under the tub - now replaced with the mat that came with it. ua-cam.com/video/ZOQ2L1TMayc/v-deo.htmlsi=-DFscHsv4hz7U1Cs The deck has a roof now that also helps ua-cam.com/video/Qnm43xkgXmw/v-deo.htmlsi=R7jcCXA04n_sCxzC
To avoid rain water pooling under the joists, I used Spax rubber pads. DPM went on top of the joists.
Good work. I think you've covered all bases there 👍🏻
Another great video, with very clear commentry, thank you for including your mistakes, they are great learning points
I'm busy doing the same, can i ask what thickness insulation you have under your hotub and would you recommend it or would you prefer thicker?
Thanks. I've got the Lazy Spa mat which is about 12mm I think, and celotex is 1 inch thick, which equates to about 25mm. No need for anything more than that.
Nice Job! Was a little surprised how cheap you got the decking. Planning a replacement decking job on a property, 5m x3m. Preliminary price up from main stream DIY store at best decking adding up to like £600 by itself (approx), and that's the cheap stuff. Usually source from trade supplier, will be this time also now...
Great video, thanks for sharing Charlie.
You're welcome. Glad you enjoyed it and thanks for the comment 👍
Thank you Charlie, this video is so informative!
You're very welcome Maria. Thanks for taking the time to comment 👍
fantastic project trully impressed!
Thanks mate!
You got some serious skill man
Cheers, buddy 👍
Love the honesty. Cheers fella 👍
You're welcome, Dez. Thanks for the comment. Incidentally nearly a year on, I'm happy I made it flat. Drainage hasn't been a problem.
I think any fall that would help the deck drain would be too steep for a hot tub; even 5 degrees of fall wouldn't encourage standing water of a few mm depth to drain effectively. I did a shonky (quick and 'temporary') deck install 15 years ago, with zero maintenance since and it's only now starting to show signs of rot. Yours will be good for 30 years!
Makes a lot of sense, that Stephen. Many thanks for the comment. Let's hope so!
Hi Charlie nice to see you still keeping busy. Can I as if you used to fit curtains and blinds for allied carpets many moons ago lol
Great build and good info
Thanks 👍
Hello Charlie, have you considered using firring strips under the deck boards but on top of the joists? It could provide the necessary fall required for drainage. It might make a mess of the fascia boards around the sides, but they could possibly be lifted to suit the new level.
Thanks for this. No, I think if I was going to put a small slope on the decking, I'd do it through adjustment of the foundations during the initial build. However I'm actually pleased I constructed it level, as for a hot tub you need it level, and drainage hasn't been a problem. The key is to bitumen the substructure.
Have you produced any videos that look at hand routers - how to choose one- which features to look for. Thank
I haven't done any comparison reviews Nick, but I'm using the Ryobi trim router these days (and love it) bit.ly/2NpPFzO and bit.ly/3uxH2Dp. Makes sense for me because I've got the battery system but there are a lot of similar products on the market, depending on which batteries you tend to use. I like the square perspex base (removable) and the weight and materials it's made from give it a real feel of quality.
i never write in the comments and usually skip half of the video but on this occasion i can honestly say that watched it all. This is a great video and really eye opening.
im thinking of building a decking for my Jacuzzi under my veranda but on previous projects i have under gone, nothing seems to be how i planned it would look.
Is this how you imagined it would look?
Great video, my drills and saws are now on charge ;-)
Thanks Chris, I've often been guilty of that, too so it's truly humbling how many comments I get on my videos! I appreciate the comment. Yes, I'm pretty pleased with how it turned out. It's all in the planning, I think. Good luck with the build.
Another cracking video... cheers for that... stay safe!
Thanks, you too 👍
Is the decking board installed correctly? What looks like a non-slip surface is normally used facing downwards to allow ventilation of the moisture between the decking board and joist.
I think it's entirely a matter of personal preference. The grooves are designed to channel water away from the deck and should, I believe be fitted face up, also to assist with grip. Personally I don't buy the argument that they're to increase ventilation below. I think this is one of those practices that is starting to become a religion (like the one that says you must only silicone the outside of a shower screen). To my mind, the deck will be infinitely more slippy if the grooves are face down.
Thank you for saving my ears Charlie 8:18 😂
You're welcome. One of those things you learn from. I bumped up the audio gain because of the wind and the distortion only became apparent when I uploaded it.
Great video. Did you know that deck board were designed to have the grooves on the underside? This is so air can flow under the board. Everyone seems to install them with the grooves above which is not how they are designed.
Thanks👍🏻 Not so with these. A few people have said this, and you're right, a lot of the decking on the market is designed with two very distinct sides. I don't know where my local agricultural/ DIY store gets its decking from, but the side I placed underneath could not be faced upwards, as there's almost no tread pattern, and the edges aren't bevelled. So it would look very odd. So long as you bitumen the underside of the deck and the joists as I did, you're not going to have any problem with rotting.
@@CharlieDIYte oh ok maybe they are making them that way now because that's how they have been installed for a while.