How important are natural ingredients in perfumery? Some impressions from the house of Ormaie.
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- Опубліковано 4 гру 2023
- Fragrances mentioned:
From Ormaie: 18-12, Tableau Parisienne, 28°, Papier Carbone, L'Ivrée Bleue, Toï, toï, toï, Le Passant, Yvonne, Les Brumes
Comparison fragrances: JTC 400, Xerjoff, Cacao Porcelana from Atelier Materi, Cedro di Diamante from Perris Monte Carlo, Sideris from Maria Candida Gentille, Iris Malikhân from Maison Crivelli
Guidance and Overture Woman from Amouage
Thank you for this video, I was very curious about this House and now I’ve learnt more about them!
I lean toward the natural ingredients. I come from the old school of thought that perfumes blend with you ph thus making a fragrance personal aka signature scents. I remember the early 90’s fragrances that first used synthetic and I would get headaches from them. Certain stores had scents sprayed so often the entire room or floors were one scent. The thought process on synthetics as told to my by a perfumer was brands wanted the scent to smell the same way on everyone which meant higher sales. I guess to each their own but I agree with you, I don’t buy what you were told by the “expert” regarding synthetic scents. Natural can be broken down by the body easier end of story! As usual good “food for thought” from your channel.
Hi Kicky, Great to hear that you got the job offer! As for the natural ingredients, aside of my love for perfume I am really invested in skincare and there is a lot of talking about ingredients here. The consensus is that ingredients do not penetrate anywhere deeper than dermis (the top layer of your skin) and at most can get stuck in your pores. In skincare products have to be specially formulated to get a chance to work through your dermis and sometimes even the formulas fail to do that. I mean the skin’s only duty is to not let anything get to the inside of our body. As for whether natural or synthetic is better: both sides have good and bad sides. Naturals usually are how the nature intended, but a lot of times they have a lot of impurities in form of acids or insect repellents in them which many of us are allergic to. Synthetic are always non-allergic, because it’s just a clear component that is made to be a single chemical, but are often overused. And in perfumery something being all natural it additionally means that its a greater strain on the environment, because natural ingredients take up more of the farmlands in rich in biodiversity areas (Africa and South America).
Thank you! Really interesting points about the skin that I had not heard. I know I can feel pretty lousy just sniffing too much perfume, so I know that chemicals are coming into my body through the nose and mouth and I was thinking through the skin too. I am not scared enough to stop using perfume, though. My love of perfume is too strong at the moment! Also, the environmental argument is a good one, too!
Congratulations on the job!
Thank you! So happy and relieved.
I tried a few Amouage Attar fragrances in a shop. A new level of intense.
Oh gosh! I would almost be scared to get into those, haha. They are not cheap.
@@thehonestperfumereviewer6336 they have a sample set if you can believe that. They are not cheap but then one drop is like a whole bottle. But yes, maybe only try if you can have self restraint 😉
Agreed on naturals being generally safer than some man-made chemical, on skin. We can see how all the "tested" and "safe" chemicals in food, environment and meds often have long term side-effects, etc despite being touted as safe.
That is a really good comparison and I know a lot about food and additives and other industrial factory type ingredients. I believe that all processed food is pretty bad for you.
Just tried Roja's Fetish and Bortnikoff's Mysterious Oud side by side and I couldn't get the Fetish scrubbed off me fast enough and it still stayed on my arm +30hrs trough several showers, a full work day outside and 2hrs in gym. Insane.
They do have similar leathery smoky brown profiles, but the Bortnikoff was leagues above the Roja except the price. My first Roja experience and definetly my last. I think syntethic materials can make mediocrity extremely loud, but nothing more. Nothing compares to high quality natural materials in my honest opinion :)
Congrats for the new job and gtreetings from Finland!
Really? Wow. 30 hours and several showers. Agree about natural smelling high quality stuff in perfumery. Thank you for congratulating me on the job. The contract is not signed yet but I am going there Friday to sign.
@@thehonestperfumereviewer6336 Yes, I felt it steeped really in to my skin and even dish soap that I tried to wash it with had little to no effect on the smell haha. I've experienced 22hrs from few Bortnikoff's before but it happens rarely and I don't understand the variables fully in terms of the fragrance longevity. Best of the luck for you!
Im so glad you got the job, 🎉
Thank you! Me too!
🎉 Congrats on the job!! I’m so happy for you! I always look forward to your videos, so thank you for finding time to continue to share your thoughts on perfume 💚 Wishing you a wonderful holiday season! 😊
Thank you! Am pretty sure I can keep the channel but won't have so much time as I do now.
Congrats on the new job Kicki. Given your skill set, really not surprised somebody snapped you up. Be gutted if you can’t carry the channel on, but totally understandable
Well done!!!
Thank you. Will keep the channel, but might post a little more seldom perhaps.
Congrats on your new job, so happy for you!! These are such interesting sounding perfumes, the toi toi toi, is one that I want to check out, as I love Sandlewood. Gallivant perfumes is a house that is more natural, Bukhara is a dry Iris, so different than any other perfume. 🥰💛
Thank you! Haven't tried very much from Gallivant except Istanbul which I ended up giving away my decant because I had other similar perfumes that I preferred. Didn't know they used a lot of naturals. Will try to get my nose on that house!
Its like hanging out with a friend :) thank you! And congrats for the Job offer!
"toi toi toi" is pronounced like "toy, toy, toy" ;)
Greetings from Germany
Haha, is that how you say it? Laughing at myself. Thank you for the kind words about the job and the feedback on pronounciation.
Congrats on job. I wont write a book here but I am one of the natural ingredient hunters. Fine, you can have allergic reactions to naturals, but skin irritation I dont worry about so much. It’s the unknown ‘new’ chemicals and their long term affects which I worry about the most- people are living longer and more opportunity for folks to get cancer. Well what causes the cancer? some things we can link direct causation but so much we shrug our shoulders and just don’t know. The longer this hobby persists for me the more I’m trying to listen to my body- there are some artificial chemicals my body just rejects and puts up the red flag.
Exactly! I am not either so worried about my skin breaking out, but of the chemicals entering my blood system and inner organs. That is more scary to me. The long-term effects.
May I ask, is Papier Carbone and Le Passant a winter scent? I am going on a trip to the islands and I was wondering if it is a good scent for the beach? Thank You!
Papier Carbone is a year-round kind of scent, but maybe best in winter. A semi-gourmand. Wouldn't pick it out for the beach. Le Passant is a lavender scent which I think would work really well in the summer, but I could wear it now also. I finished my sample quickly.
Ooooo Le Passant sounds really nice! Green lavender with its edges softened with tonka and vanilla. Wonder if it’s at all like What About Adam… that one is very similar in the same way except it’s tomato leaf not lavender.
I agree with you about naturals in certain ways. But for example if you wanted to get a strong anti-aging dose of sulforaphane in your diet, you’d need to eat an insane amount of broccoli sprouts to achieve that. As opposed to a capsule you take once daily. With perfume, each plant and flower has dozens of chemical constituents. But I’m not sure you need all of them to create a realistic note.
For example with rose, many perfumers agree it’s more or less a combination of 3 materials: phenyl ethyl alcohol, citronellol, and geraniol. You can tweak it with some other things of course. Some of the things that naturally occur in rose oil might not be very pleasing or occur at such negligible amounts, excluding them in your rose accord might be a good idea to you.
I like grapefruit as a note a lot but the essential oil kind of sucks in perfumery. The aroma chemicals and bases out there allow me to make a very nice grapefruit note that is far more pleasing than the essential oil. There are great naturals out there though that smell incredible. But often they have been refined with like, co2 extraction. So they aren’t as “nature intended” in this way.
It’s an interesting topic!
Congrats on your new job btw🎉
Very interesting to read what you wrote about naturals in perfumery. Thank you for commenting!
I have not tried What about Adam or even heard ot it. The first time I tried Le Passant, all I got was lavender. It is not very sweet but "softened by" vanilla and tonka I can agree on.
@@expansefloating4096 Thank you!
Grattis🎉🎉🎉!
Tack!
Congratulations on your new job. 2024 will definitely be an exciting year 🎉
Thank you!
Hi Kicki! I'm so happy for you that you have a job offer. I will miss you though and be very sad if you have to stop posting videos. As for naturals, I prefer them for the most part and I also have seen the ruining of generations of beautiful perfumes by the removal of what are natural components, such as oak moss. I think it was an industry taking for the chemical companies, honestly, after looking into the so called "studies" that made the case for the components causing harm. IFRA is still removing and limiting more and more naturals in favor of chemicals. I don't have an inclination to go full all naturals, but I for sure stay away from or just don't like the smell of chemical perfumes. Recently, as I have bought more niche and modern formulations of fragrances, I have had weird nose experiences of not being able to smell certain things in the perfume as though I smell a hole in the fragrance ( I even see it this way in my minds eye) that should have something but it's not there. Also the phenomena of not being able to smell a perfume very well at all, but later smelling it in the air or having a stranger comment on what I can't smell at all. This is never the case with my pre 1990s perfumes. I think it's chemicals. oxJulia PS, I decided I love Persephones Patchouli!
Thank you, Julia! Will be signing the contract on Friday morning. Not until then will I celebrate. Very interesting what you wrote about older perfumes and that the chemical companies practically are trying to find reasons to replace the natural stuff with synthetics. Did you get the Persephones sample from me? I have tried that, but I have more potent patchouli frags that I prefer if I remember correctly. I will keep my channel, not to worry. Might have to close the company I registered, but there is not connection to this channel. This is like having a Facebook account. I might post a little more seldom.