Great video, thanks for sharing this info. I have one wheel like that which will need attention. Thankfully no leakage. These old JD's are worth repairing because they are so rugged. I rescued three 200 series from a dealer auction, only paid $600 for all three. The 212 is running fine, the 214 and 210 will be gone over this season. I figured I couldn't go wrong since I'll have plenty of spare parts. WARNING: Don't use the tractor a lot if that wheel area is loose. The hub behind the wheel is cast iron and will wear before the axle. That was deliberate and it is a good idea. However the new hub at a dealer will cost $250. Don't be a cheapskate, replace that hub. WHY? Because if you let it go too long it will damage the spline on the axle. The dealer can no longer get those axles, they are listed as OBSOLETE! You will then have to go looking for a used one. Or you might find a machine shop to weld up the damage and re-machine it. But that could cost a fortune. Good news is, the left and right axles are identical. Before you plan to replace one of those hubs, buy a really strong C-clip tool. I snapped three tips off my el cheapo tool. then went to Oreilleys and got a strong one. The end of the axle was slightly burred and would not let the new hub slide on. I had to use a small triangular file to clean up the splines. Then it went right on.
Thanks for the heads up. Just bought a '79 214. Ran right out and jacked it up. Tried to wobble the wheels... no play. Phew. Everything else works including the pto and the variator. Seems like I got a decent machine.
This kind of problem is super ez pz for me. I literally NEVER take any of my machines to places to get them fixed. Hell, even my cars I always do EVERY single repair and mainenance. I seriously enoy doing it, and i also learn from it. And parts are super super cheap. For older things, like these tractors, replacement parts ill either get generic ebay ones, or i'll ge compatible newer pars, or i'll custom fabricate things (welding, metalworking, machining, etc). For me, the only way i could consider a tractor to be "not worth repairing" is if it's something ridiculous, like if the whole frame is twisted into a double helix. Otherwise, it's all repairable. Rust is no problem either. I'm experimenting with learning to refabricate rotten, rusted out parts. I don't mean fill them in... i mean actually refabricating the actual part custom made, refabricating what rotted away. When doing these kinds of things, welding is your BEST friend!!
Antique Equipment, no kidding. The tractor mows and pulls like a dream. Theses no power like it. Dump the clutch and it takes off like a rocket. These old Kohlers run smoother and idle lower than the new ones do.
I love coming across vids like yours the day after I buy something...LOL Jacked up my new-to-me 1974 112 and checked this while you were still explaining the issue....Solid as can be...SHEW!! Thanks for bringing this up. These are great old tractors, but tend to suffer from a little of the "It's a perfect bulletproof classic Johnny D." Syndrome. Maintenance is key folks!
Exactly! Doesn't matter what brand of tractor it is, if it's old it's obviously going to have wear and tear issues. This is just to help people new to the antique tractor hobby to a little more of what to look for when looking for a restoration project. Thanks for the great feedback!
Man my 82 212 I thought had solid hubs, got it in the air, & it had some play, but years hopefully before it’ll self destruct. Could be worse the sears tractors in the 1970s used keyed shafts w hubs, & when u need to replace a shaft seal on a sears the hub is welded onto the axle. I tried for abt 2hrs using PB blaster, let it sit, torch, & quench I finally gave up, & just tilted the transmission oil fill port to the back of the tractor, attached some NPT pipe to it, so now I’ve got a trans fill port to put oil into. So if I feel like goin for a drive I chuck a quart in it, & drive the fk out of it.
So these hubs are $250 EACH from Deere!!! A set on eBay for 2 is 60. Unless u feel like putting $500-600 in 2 hubs for the trans find a parts tractor or if I can get it cheap enough. Got a 67 110 whose hubs were insanely close to wearing into the bearings. That’s why I’ve got a spare transmission to swap in or switch over the hubs. Important wear parts: Rear hubs Engine mount brackets (mainly the rear) Fenders Variator I can’t tell you how many times how hard it is to find a 200 series tractor w decent fenders on it. Getting em is a pain cuz to get em shipped costs $250.
CausticBURN, yeah me to. I own the MikeJD60 UA-cam channel and my 212 didn’t have this problem. After I watched this video I went and checked, it passed with flying colors no wibble wabble. We think that it was owned by an old man and was well taken care of. Edit: I recently just checked & it does have floppy hubs. It’s not too too bad, so I’m probably fine for a few more year yet. My 67 110 needs hubs tho, cuz it’s pretty bad.
@@michaelbenoit248 Is there anything that can be done to keep these hubs from wearing out? The way it's designed there doesn't seem to be a way of keeping it tight.
Rob J, what you could do is drill a hole in the hub, then thread 2-3 holes on it to screw in bolts to snug down. I’ve thought abt putting a big a$$ washer between the hub, & the axle seal to help prevent it from happening.
I bought an 82 212 for $250. Had no idea what I got myself into, got it home, new ignition switch, air in one of the tires. Fresh gas & a cleaned carb & away she goes. After that the Ethonol killed the carb so I had to buy a new one & wheels I was at it I repainted the thing, except for the fenders. I also put all new fuel line on it. I’ve got $600 in it & it’ll soon be $800 after I rebuild the deck. So it’s worth about what I could sell it for. Then a few days ago I found a JD110 for 1967 ROund Fender. Got it for $100, new tires, new secondary drive belt, & some one did a rebuild on it as well. The moron that had it before me had the tires backwards, to give it a wider stance, so naturally I decided to rotate them, then I realized how much play it had & there was a, holly 🤬. Moment when I realized I had forgotten about these peerless 2300s, this major flaw. The good thing is that I caught it in time, hasn’t started eating into the tranny housing & bearings yet. I found a set of hubs on eBay for $65 so I’ll have too get them when I start using the tractor for events. Since I already have a work tractor & a predator sears I won’t really use the 110, but while I have it it’s getting pure Ethonol free gas, & a nice paint job/ the best I could give it. I’ve been looking for one of these things for a while & when they come up in Craigslist they’re grossly overpriced, you pretty much need to get these things for almost free. It’s the little things that kill your budget.
I drove a JD 200 for a long time after the fluid stopped leaking out the rear end. It still ran and mowed grass when I finally gave it away. Good machine still.
So what you're saying is when she starts saying it doesn't feel good anymore, it hurts, you then begin the spanking? Which cheek do you start with, or is it best to just stay on the same butt cheek and she'll soon stop the crying turning into a vicious sex machine nearly on command? Now that's one hell of a Saturday night 👍🇺🇸
I’m looking at buying 2 67 JD 112s to rehab/restore/mess with. After looking at the comments I just want to say thank you for the heads up to a situation I wouldn’t have known about but is a factor in the price or whether I want to continue with the purchase.
You obviously know more about the 110 then me, I was mowing today with a 69 110 and after stopping and shifting I lost first, second, third, and reverse, still have 4th. I didn't hear or feel anything unusual when shifting. All, I've done so far is pull the seat/deck and the shifter. Haven't found any hits on my exact symptoms. Can you point me in the right direction? shift fork? sheared something maybe?
@@EshlemaniaTV Looking thru shifter hole and shifting everything looks good, it seems to me the input gear is gone? maybe it broke and fell to the bottom of the case without hanging up on anything, is that even possible. I don't see a gear on the case side of the six large splines on the input shaft. Shouldn't the input gear be beside the case at all times or does it move around with the shifter.
Good informative video. Iam in the process of buying a John Deere riding lawn mower. Ive never had a riding lawn mower, so I dont know if the automatic transmission in the E100 is as good as the hydrostatic transmission in the E110. ??
In our honest opinion we would buy a used X300 series or larger John Deere than buy a new John Deere 100 series tractor. If you have a small (1/4 -1/2 acre) lawn that is mostly flat and you should be good with a 100 series tractor. We just have a habit of towing large heavy loads behind our tractors and mowing in all kinds of different conditions so we usually go for something in the garden tractor line up (X500 series), but we know the X300 series is a tough class of lawn tractor that holds up pretty well.
I restored a 1970 110 that I inherited from my uncle he bought brand new. I had the whole transmission rebuild and all new gears, bearing and seals. It took me a year to finish and its all back together. I had everything sandblasted and I repainted and re decaled it. Two issues maybe you can help with. One is the variator. The pedal comes up slow and sometimes I have to pull it hard up on the pedal. Can I add some lube in the variator moving parts? Maybe some sand got in there. Now second question. I took a year to get it all done. There is oil that leaks out and down the inside of the real wheels. I haven't put 6 hours on that rebuild and its out of warranty now. Can I just remove the axle housing and replace what must have been defective seals from the outside? The rebuild cost 900.00!. I can't do that again. Somebody must have screwed up the seals?. Thanks in advance.
It can get pricey working on these old gems nowadays. I recently had a 212 with 46" deck and blower given to me as sort of a bonus for helping my cousins. I'm already about $200 in for tires and misc stuff and there WILL be more needed just to make it all reliable for mowing next season and maybe snowblowing either this season or next. At least after cleaning inside the gas tank,replacing all the fuel lines/filter,and cleaning inside the fuel pump,the engine is running like a champ. With it being a plastic tank and rubber lines,how the heck did the fuel pump get full of rust? Makes no sense unless somebody dropped metal into the tank at some point. The metal fuel shutoff is funky and won't close even though the knob moves,maybe the rust crud came from that.
It's a good video for people who want to buy things with no problems and helps us all judge with price. I have 214 with 321 engine trans is not problem at moment but I believe my stator just craped on me I have a stator for it but I haven't dug into it yet just wondering if whole engine has come out? I'm 95% sure it does. I did that once before and it was a job and half. Any one have any ideas for bypassing the stator somehow I heard of different kind of ignition system for these engines but is it by pass stator?
The stators in the old Kohler K series engines usually hold up pretty well. From what I've experienced, it's usually the voltage regulator or key switch that is the issue with charging systems on those engines. I would be sure to do a voltage check on the charging system before going to the trouble to replace the stator only to find out the problem was somewhere else in the circuit.
I just snatched a free one up today! It still had good tires and started after alittle cleaning! The guy payed me to haul away scrap and he wanted it scrapped!?!? I told him "sure" and brought it directly home
I am thinking of looking over a friend's 210,this video is a big help,TY much. I will bring my floor jack along to lift it to check for excessive wobble and look for signs of leaking oil.. Anybody know of a site that shows all Peerless garden tractor transmissions from over the last 50 years or so? I want to see where the Peerless 2300 stands in the duty range.
Familiar with leaking seals and popping out of 2nd gear, had a rebuild done at a dealer with parts from ebay and fixed it. What I am looking for help on is the deck lift lever catch or pawls. Damn thing keeps popping back, could break a kneecap if the weight of the deck did not slow it down. Dealer no help on this, want a real repair, not a work around. Anyone got any ideas? 1973 110. Thnx
For the most part we haven't had many issues with hubs on our Wheel Horse tractors under normal around the home use. We have broke a few OEM hubs during some garden tractor pulls though. After that we started using some heavier duty ones made by a company called Hooker Hitch (Hookerhitch.com) in Peach Bottom, PA
I bought a JD 212 for cheap like $250. No hub problems! Yay! Very little wear, all original tires! Slimed the rear ones and boom no flats and with a quick carb clean and a fuel change she's back out mowing. Nothing runs like a Deere! Totally bullet proof, those old tractors will last forever if taken good care of! Lots of power! The old cast iron engines run butter than new ones in my opinion. They are worth any new parts, because you will get more out of them than you will on the new mowers they make today! They don't make them like this any more! Good old tractor not very hard to work on!
Well it'll still look nice sitting in the yard even if its broken i can put a craftsmen transmission on mine But the guy said its been sitting in his garage for 40 years all that I could see wrong with it was a front flat tire
Rebuilding a transaxle on a unit like this is a no big deal. Axle hubs are still Available and found often, Considering that these machines are over 30 years old. What do you expect to find wrong on a machine this old? Find a MTD or Murray or AYP that’s this old and show us a video of all the problems wrong....
This is not about ALL the problems a person could find on a tractor this old. The point of this is video is to help people who are new to restoring old tractors like this aware of what to look for and what they can expect if they are not doing the work themselves. Rebuilding a nuclear reactor is no big deal to someone that does it all the time. No one was saying it's difficult or not difficult. Simply that it's something common that should be checked out so that you know what you're getting into. You don't buy a mower deck and pay top dollar for it without spinning the pulleys to see if any of the bearings are shot. And no where in here was there any mention of comparing any brand to another brand. As far as hubs being available, if someone takes a tractor like this to a dealer for repairs they will end up paying well over $100 per hub for a NEW hub. So in the case of a tractor like this, if taken to a repair shop they will end up with a very expensive repair bill and probably not understand why. This will gives them some idea of what is actually wrong and what needs done.
Pastor Michael Anderson Its clearly an informational video to people who have never worked on lawnmowers. Not a look at how terrible john deere machines are. SMH
Wouldn't recommend it. You're taking a chance of gear oil leaking on your lawn if the inner seal is leaking at all. Or if any dry grass gets around that area it could potentially start a fire from the metal getting so hot.
Great video, thanks for sharing this info.
I have one wheel like that which will need attention. Thankfully no leakage.
These old JD's are worth repairing because they are so rugged.
I rescued three 200 series from a dealer auction, only paid $600 for all three. The 212 is running fine, the 214 and 210 will be gone over this season. I figured I couldn't go wrong since I'll have plenty of spare parts.
WARNING:
Don't use the tractor a lot if that wheel area is loose. The hub behind the wheel is cast iron and will wear before the axle. That was deliberate and it is a good idea. However the new hub at a dealer will cost $250. Don't be a cheapskate, replace that hub. WHY? Because if you let it go too long it will damage the spline on the axle. The dealer can no longer get those axles, they are listed as OBSOLETE! You will then have to go looking for a used one. Or you might find a machine shop to weld up the damage and re-machine it. But that could cost a fortune.
Good news is, the left and right axles are identical. Before you plan to replace one of those hubs, buy a really strong C-clip tool. I snapped three tips off my el cheapo tool. then went to Oreilleys and got a strong one.
The end of the axle was slightly burred and would not let the new hub slide on. I had to use a small triangular file to clean up the splines. Then it went right on.
Thanks for the heads up. Just bought a '79 214. Ran right out and jacked it up. Tried to wobble the wheels... no play. Phew. Everything else works including the pto and the variator. Seems like I got a decent machine.
You don't have to split the transmission to change the axle seals.
I'll take that garden tractor with a bad axle over the $3,000 crap they sell today So big deal $500 repair it's still a win.
This hubs are about $50 from a used parts dealee for both no big deal.
This kind of problem is super ez pz for me. I literally NEVER take any of my machines to places to get them fixed. Hell, even my cars I always do EVERY single repair and mainenance. I seriously enoy doing it, and i also learn from it. And parts are super super cheap. For older things, like these tractors, replacement parts ill either get generic ebay ones, or i'll ge compatible newer pars, or i'll custom fabricate things (welding, metalworking, machining, etc).
For me, the only way i could consider a tractor to be "not worth repairing" is if it's something ridiculous, like if the whole frame is twisted into a double helix. Otherwise, it's all repairable. Rust is no problem either. I'm experimenting with learning to refabricate rotten, rusted out parts. I don't mean fill them in... i mean actually refabricating the actual part custom made, refabricating what rotted away. When doing these kinds of things, welding is your BEST friend!!
Even with the hub problem that's still a nice old classic!
Yep! Starts right up and runs pretty smooth.
Antique Equipment, no kidding. The tractor mows and pulls like a dream. Theses no power like it. Dump the clutch and it takes off like a rocket. These old Kohlers run smoother and idle lower than the new ones do.
I love coming across vids like yours the day after I buy something...LOL Jacked up my new-to-me 1974 112 and checked this while you were still explaining the issue....Solid as can be...SHEW!! Thanks for bringing this up. These are great old tractors, but tend to suffer from a little of the "It's a perfect bulletproof classic Johnny D." Syndrome. Maintenance is key folks!
Exactly! Doesn't matter what brand of tractor it is, if it's old it's obviously going to have wear and tear issues. This is just to help people new to the antique tractor hobby to a little more of what to look for when looking for a restoration project. Thanks for the great feedback!
Chris, I love that Olds rocket logo!
Man my 82 212 I thought had solid hubs, got it in the air, & it had some play, but years hopefully before it’ll self destruct. Could be worse the sears tractors in the 1970s used keyed shafts w hubs, & when u need to replace a shaft seal on a sears the hub is welded onto the axle.
I tried for abt 2hrs using PB blaster, let it sit, torch, & quench I finally gave up, & just tilted the transmission oil fill port to the back of the tractor, attached some NPT pipe to it, so now I’ve got a trans fill port to put oil into. So if I feel like goin for a drive I chuck a quart in it, & drive the fk out of it.
So these hubs are $250 EACH from Deere!!!
A set on eBay for 2 is 60. Unless u feel like putting $500-600 in 2 hubs for the trans find a parts tractor or if I can get it cheap enough. Got a 67 110 whose hubs were insanely close to wearing into the bearings. That’s why I’ve got a spare transmission to swap in or switch over the hubs.
Important wear parts:
Rear hubs
Engine mount brackets (mainly the rear)
Fenders
Variator
I can’t tell you how many times how hard it is to find a 200 series tractor w decent fenders on it. Getting em is a pain cuz to get em shipped costs $250.
Great advice of what to look for. I recently acquired a 214 for free and lucked out not having this issue. The carb needed some attention though.
CausticBURN, yeah me to. I own the MikeJD60 UA-cam channel and my 212 didn’t have this problem. After I watched this video I went and checked, it passed with flying colors no wibble wabble. We think that it was owned by an old man and was well taken care of.
Edit: I recently just checked & it does have floppy hubs. It’s not too too bad, so I’m probably fine for a few more year yet. My 67 110 needs hubs tho, cuz it’s pretty bad.
@@michaelbenoit248 Is there anything that can be done to keep these hubs from wearing out? The way it's designed there doesn't seem to be a way of keeping it tight.
I have an old 214 that has sat for years, thinking about overhauling the motor and finding a tiller for it...
Rob J, what you could do is drill a hole in the hub, then thread 2-3 holes on it to screw in bolts to snug down. I’ve thought abt putting a big a$$ washer between the hub, & the axle seal to help prevent it from happening.
Thanks for the headsup! I'm going to be looking at a older JD 210 soon and I'll make sure I check the hubs on it!
Going to look at a 210 tomorrow, good thing I stumbled across this video!
I bought an 82 212 for $250. Had no idea what I got myself into, got it home, new ignition switch, air in one of the tires. Fresh gas & a cleaned carb & away she goes. After that the Ethonol killed the carb so I had to buy a new one & wheels I was at it I repainted the thing, except for the fenders. I also put all new fuel line on it.
I’ve got $600 in it & it’ll soon be $800 after I rebuild the deck. So it’s worth about what I could sell it for.
Then a few days ago I found a JD110 for 1967 ROund Fender. Got it for $100, new tires, new secondary drive belt, & some one did a rebuild on it as well.
The moron that had it before me had the tires backwards, to give it a wider stance, so naturally I decided to rotate them, then I realized how much play it had & there was a, holly 🤬. Moment when I realized I had forgotten about these peerless 2300s, this major flaw.
The good thing is that I caught it in time, hasn’t started eating into the tranny housing & bearings yet.
I found a set of hubs on eBay for $65 so I’ll have too get them when I start using the tractor for events.
Since I already have a work tractor & a predator sears I won’t really use the 110, but while I have it it’s getting pure Ethonol free gas, & a nice paint job/ the best I could give it.
I’ve been looking for one of these things for a while & when they come up in Craigslist they’re grossly overpriced, you pretty much need to get these things for almost free.
It’s the little things that kill your budget.
I drove a JD 200 for a long time after the fluid stopped leaking out the rear end. It still ran and mowed grass when I finally gave it away. Good machine still.
So what you're saying is when she starts saying it doesn't feel good anymore, it hurts, you then begin the spanking? Which cheek do you start with, or is it best to just stay on the same butt cheek and she'll soon stop the crying turning into a vicious sex machine nearly on command?
Now that's one hell of a Saturday night 👍🇺🇸
hi was wondering do i need to unhook the battery cable before hooking the saftey switch on back on 1970 112 john deere shifting pattern plate
What cause my 212to spin back tires under light load,,, it also makes noise like it’s try lock up in reverse?????
I’m looking at buying 2 67 JD 112s to rehab/restore/mess with. After looking at the comments I just want to say thank you for the heads up to a situation I wouldn’t have known about but is a factor in the price or whether I want to continue with the purchase.
What size of belts go on the 110 square fender for the tiller looking for the smaller one from engine to the pulley that runs the tiller belt
You obviously know more about the 110 then me, I was mowing today with a 69 110 and after stopping and shifting I lost first, second, third, and reverse, still have 4th. I didn't hear or feel anything unusual when shifting. All, I've done so far is pull the seat/deck and the shifter. Haven't found any hits on my exact symptoms. Can you point me in the right direction? shift fork? sheared something maybe?
If the shifter itself isn't broken then a fork would be the next guess.
@@EshlemaniaTV Looking thru shifter hole and shifting everything looks good, it seems to me the input gear is gone? maybe it broke and fell to the bottom of the case without hanging up on anything, is that even possible. I don't see a gear on the case side of the six large splines on the input shaft. Shouldn't the input gear be beside the case at all times or does it move around with the shifter.
Good informative video. Iam in the process of buying a John Deere riding lawn mower. Ive never had a riding lawn mower, so I dont know if the automatic transmission in the E100 is as good as the hydrostatic transmission in the E110. ??
In our honest opinion we would buy a used X300 series or larger John Deere than buy a new John Deere 100 series tractor. If you have a small (1/4 -1/2 acre) lawn that is mostly flat and you should be good with a 100 series tractor. We just have a habit of towing large heavy loads behind our tractors and mowing in all kinds of different conditions so we usually go for something in the garden tractor line up (X500 series), but we know the X300 series is a tough class of lawn tractor that holds up pretty well.
Good info, thanks for the post👍
I restored a 1970 110 that I inherited from my uncle he bought brand new. I had the whole transmission rebuild and all new gears, bearing and seals. It took me a year to finish and its all back together. I had everything sandblasted and I repainted and re decaled it. Two issues maybe you can help with. One is the variator. The pedal comes up slow and sometimes I have to pull it hard up on the pedal. Can I add some lube in the variator moving parts? Maybe some sand got in there. Now second question. I took a year to get it all done. There is oil that leaks out and down the inside of the real wheels. I haven't put 6 hours on that rebuild and its out of warranty now. Can I just remove the axle housing and replace what must have been defective seals from the outside? The rebuild cost 900.00!. I can't do that again. Somebody must have screwed up the seals?. Thanks in advance.
It can get pricey working on these old gems nowadays. I recently had a 212 with 46" deck and blower given to me as sort of a bonus for helping my cousins. I'm already about $200 in for tires and misc stuff and there WILL be more needed just to make it all reliable for mowing next season and maybe snowblowing either this season or next.
At least after cleaning inside the gas tank,replacing all the fuel lines/filter,and cleaning inside the fuel pump,the engine is running like a champ. With it being a plastic tank and rubber lines,how the heck did the fuel pump get full of rust? Makes no sense unless somebody dropped metal into the tank at some point. The metal fuel shutoff is funky and won't close even though the knob moves,maybe the rust crud came from that.
It's a good video for people who want to buy things with no problems and helps us all judge with price. I have 214 with 321 engine trans is not problem at moment but I believe my stator just craped on me I have a stator for it but I haven't dug into it yet just wondering if whole engine has come out? I'm 95% sure it does. I did that once before and it was a job and half. Any one have any ideas for bypassing the stator somehow I heard of different kind of ignition system for these engines but is it by pass stator?
The stators in the old Kohler K series engines usually hold up pretty well. From what I've experienced, it's usually the voltage regulator or key switch that is the issue with charging systems on those engines. I would be sure to do a voltage check on the charging system before going to the trouble to replace the stator only to find out the problem was somewhere else in the circuit.
Is there a place to get new hubs even if they are after market?
You can get new ones from a dealer. Or decent used ones on Ebay, or tractor shows, or swap meet.
@@EshlemaniaTV ok thank you do you know by chance what they cost from the dealer?
Definitely appreciate the insights!! At least you're helping us know what we'll need to fix :-)
Hopefully it's not worn out then if it is I'll find a way to fix it
Thank you for sharing, sir.
You see same problem on drive rollers on round balers, can wear out in a season. If the splines are greased when installing problem is solved
The old timers around here are always quick to remind everyone that grease is cheaper than equipment.
Great video ....big thanks!
i just drove from detroit to cinci to get a 214 FOR FREE hahaha!! WINNING. now i get to by a jd hat for real.
you are living large Thad !!.. I have my JD212, wouldnt trade it for 2 brand new MTD lawn roaches !!
I just snatched a free one up today! It still had good tires and started after alittle cleaning! The guy payed me to haul away scrap and he wanted it scrapped!?!? I told him "sure" and brought it directly home
I am thinking of looking over a friend's 210,this video is a big help,TY much. I will bring my floor jack along to lift it to check for excessive wobble and look for signs of leaking oil.. Anybody know of a site that shows all Peerless garden tractor transmissions from over the last 50 years or so? I want to see where the Peerless 2300 stands in the duty range.
The Peerless 2200-2300 series is in the ground engaging duty range. Moldboard plows, disc harrows, moving dirt or gravel with a front or rear blade.
Familiar with leaking seals and popping out of 2nd gear, had a rebuild done at a dealer with parts from ebay and fixed it. What I am looking for help on is the deck lift lever catch or pawls. Damn thing keeps popping back, could break a kneecap if the weight of the deck did not slow it down. Dealer no help on this, want a real repair, not a work around. Anyone got any ideas? 1973 110. Thnx
Thanks I will keep an eye out.
Wheel horse garden tractors have the same problem but a new nail bearing and a new seal Fixed the problem
For the most part we haven't had many issues with hubs on our Wheel Horse tractors under normal around the home use. We have broke a few OEM hubs during some garden tractor pulls though. After that we started using some heavier duty ones made by a company called Hooker Hitch (Hookerhitch.com) in Peach Bottom, PA
Eshlemania TV okay i stil have my original hubs but 1 hub needs to be replaced because a peice of metal broke out of it
Would some hubs for a Craftsman gt5000 work on a JD214 tractor? They are alot cheaper and easier to find and look similar.
Did you try this? If so, did the Craftsman hubs fit?
I bought a JD 212 for cheap like $250. No hub problems! Yay! Very little wear, all original tires! Slimed the rear ones and boom no flats and with a quick carb clean and a fuel change she's back out mowing. Nothing runs like a Deere! Totally bullet proof, those old tractors will last forever if taken good care of! Lots of power! The old cast iron engines run butter than new ones in my opinion. They are worth any new parts, because you will get more out of them than you will on the new mowers they make today! They don't make them like this any more! Good old tractor not very hard to work on!
Sounds like you got a really good deal on your Deere!
Great video,thanks for the info
Well I know what’s wrong with ours now thanks for the video
Glad we could help!
thank you you just saved me some cash.
Glad we could help!
How much does it cost to repair
You can get new hubs at john deere $250 a piece
I am looking for a 38" mower for my L120 Tractor
42" was the smallest they made for that style tractor.
LoL I just fixed one the bearing froze up and cut a grove into the axle. so I had to replace both bushing in the axle collar and the axle
They are some good old tractors.
Well it'll still look nice sitting in the yard even if its broken i can put a craftsmen transmission on mine
But the guy said its been sitting in his garage for 40 years all that I could see wrong with it was a front flat tire
How commom is this prob
It's common considering the age of the equipment. But this was more common on tractors that were used to mow the side of a hill.
Rebuilding a transaxle on a unit like this is a no big deal. Axle hubs are still Available and found often, Considering that these machines are over 30 years old. What do you expect to find wrong on a machine this old? Find a MTD or Murray or AYP that’s this old and show us a video of all the problems wrong....
This is not about ALL the problems a person could find on a tractor this old. The point of this is video is to help people who are new to restoring old tractors like this aware of what to look for and what they can expect if they are not doing the work themselves. Rebuilding a nuclear reactor is no big deal to someone that does it all the time. No one was saying it's difficult or not difficult. Simply that it's something common that should be checked out so that you know what you're getting into. You don't buy a mower deck and pay top dollar for it without spinning the pulleys to see if any of the bearings are shot. And no where in here was there any mention of comparing any brand to another brand. As far as hubs being available, if someone takes a tractor like this to a dealer for repairs they will end up paying well over $100 per hub for a NEW hub. So in the case of a tractor like this, if taken to a repair shop they will end up with a very expensive repair bill and probably not understand why. This will gives them some idea of what is actually wrong and what needs done.
Pastor Michael Anderson
Its clearly an informational video to people who have never worked on lawnmowers. Not a look at how terrible john deere machines are. SMH
Can you mow one last time before servicing
Wouldn't recommend it. You're taking a chance of gear oil leaking on your lawn if the inner seal is leaking at all. Or if any dry grass gets around that area it could potentially start a fire from the metal getting so hot.