Motorizing the carriage of my Mini Lathe
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- Опубліковано 15 вер 2024
- Keeping it simple! An engineering adventure.
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The helical flexible shaft coupling I used:
amzn.to/3WiEUOM
You may need one with different ID at each end for your motor or shaft. Get more than one because if you stall it the carriage - the motor can destroy it.
THIS ONE IS MORE ROBUST:
amzn.to/3EEQxIf
Speed control, panel mount with speed display:
amzn.to/3NojMT1
Or this small one that I used with no display:
amzn.to/3gsmpHr
IndusTec Wired 20 AMP 12V DC Motor Polarity Reversing Rocker Maintained Latch Switch:
amzn.to/3DwlfCy
Micro switch limit switches, here's one example, but there are many sizes and colors:
amzn.to/3fqXOSP
(As an Amazon Affiliate I get a small share of the items above).
DC 24V 250rpm Speed Reduction Worm Gear Motor & Cable 25kg.cm High Torque 60W:
www.ebay.com/i...
5 Amp Power Supply PSP24120C - Automation Direct Rhino PSP24-120C 120 W 24 VDC :
search eBay
My machining play list:
• Machining
Tools I own, use in my videos and recommend (as an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.)
3pcs 3/8"/10mm Shank Indexable Carbide Lathe Turning Tools Insert Holder Bit Set: amzn.to/3CS95nK
5Pcs 3/8" Inch Indexable Carbide Insert cutters with TCMT110204 Carbide Inserts: amzn.to/3WeZmyW
1/2" Carbide Square End Mill 4 flute:amzn.to/3H6G36v
ROUND BAR CENTER FINDER: amzn.to/3kg3t09
2" diameter Indexable End Mill with 3 - Tpg32 Carbide Inserts, 3/4" Straight Shank: amzn.to/3GNLbuH
Ball Turning Attachment For 7 x 14 / 7x16 Mini Lathe: amzn.to/3ZDscf3
2" Boring Head R8 Shank 1/2" Carbide Boring Bar Set: amzn.to/3J1wGpQ
Keyless 1/32"- 5/8" Drill Chuck with R8 Shank Adapter: amzn.to/3CTUetb
3 Spring Caliper set 8" / 200mm - Inside/Outside/Divider: amzn.to/3H79nts
Sewing Machine Light LED Light with flex gooseneck: amzn.to/3XyhHrv
Deburring Wheel, Nylon Fiber Buffing Polishing Wheel 6 inch 9P Hardness: amzn.to/3XlIzLN
Thrust Needle Roller Bearing with Two Washers 1/2" (for mill spindle nut): amzn.to/3CS65bg
Metric M42 8% Cobalt Twist Drill Bits Set for Stainless Steel and Hard Metal (1mm-10mm/19pcs): amzn.to/3HjquIV
Shars DRO for mini-lathe Z-axis (carriage) position. (You can cut down the 24" capacitive scale - it's aluminum.): amzn.to/3fjOfFw
Digital tachometer: amzn.to/3UePGUg
FLEXBAR Optical Center Punch: amzn.to/3WRwpKD
IRWIN Step Drill Bit Set (I highly recommend Irwin brand step drills. They were the originator of this concept in the 1980s and the knockoffs are not nearly as good) : amzn.to/3hv4zno
Angel Eye Ring Light (for mini mill): amzn.to/3fp5hSy
DC motor speed controller (for mill table feed and mini-lathe carriage): amzn.to/3WOhOjk
Finally, a good use for a 14mm socket.
Hi 👋, Guy, I am new to your engineering workshop, I’ve been looking for something like this for a year or so, As I have a problem with a wood Lathe Kontour A1500, I purchased this back in the mid to late 90s, To machine up Pacific size of timber, Mainly used on organ pipe building,
And I had a contract Verti at the same time as we were coming up to the millennium , I had literally thousands pepper and salt mills to make,
The bottom section of the mill had to finish at a precise size , as there was a silversmith that rolled on a silver band on the bottom, which then was hallmarked for the millennium, Anyway, going back to the, I used to live in the UK, I’m now retired, living in France, and I have been bringing my machinery across, On one of my trips, I brought this lathe back with me, approximately 700 odd miles, however , it is journey back under the vibration things I’ve got loose in the electronics department, it was three phase, going into a control panel, I got the machine all up and running approximately two weeks, and then all of a sudden it went with a bang, And blew the main drive, unit, I have since brought a new VDF unit and got the motor up and running, however, I don’t know how to wire up the electronics to operate the 24 V stepper motor on the end, I still have the limit switches fitted, and I have the control panel with the variable speed and the toggle switch for drive left stop right , I think now by watching how you have built this and wired it up. I think I now can get it up and running again just need a 24 V supply,
And I presume this will need to be slightly bigger in the amperage that is putting out than what the stepper motor is using ,
Not sure whether you’ll see this , as you have uploaded this up over a year ago, but it is very helpful, Phil from the moulin France .
That's a pretty long winded message! Not sure if you were asking, but to specify a power supply that runs a motor for any amount of time you need to double the amperage of your expected draw. So if your motor draws 1 amp for instance then you need a 2 amp supply so it doesn't overheat. Hope this helps.
Hi 👋, sorry, for too much information, old dude, nothing much more to do, thank you for your help,
FIrst thought was "That's the same (up/down) setup with the adjustment switches in my garage door opener except (side to side)" Awesome application execution...
Yes, same basic electronics. Using the KISS principle here!
That was awsome an im gona tryn do the exact same thing to mine. Thats for explaining so clearly
I'm glad to have inspired you Shawn. FYI I had to replace that helical coupling with something more robust because it got destroyed when I stalled the carriage once.
Nice job. I liked the use of limit switches. Getting the gears out of the picture on these mini-lathes are a big improvement in reliability and noise.
Thanks! I totally agree.
I don't agree ... ok for the noise, but how can you cut long screws ( their threading i intend ) ? With only a die and a die-holder, long screws are impossible to be worked, unless you dont't need them at all.
The motorized system is instead ok for normal diameter reduction ...
Limit switches are also very usefull to prevent big damages ...
@@alessandroandrenacci2372 Thanks for your thoughts. If I want long threads - I just buy threaded rod or bolts and engineer them in. I'm just not interested in making threads on the lathe.
Excellent work! Very impressive. It's as simple as it pretty much can possibly be and works great. You really can't ask for any better than that. This video is absolutely getting saved to my tutorial list for future reference. I also very much appreciate the explanation of how the DPDT switches work and what their specific name is, which greatly helps when searching the interweb for them. I sincerely thank you sir for the time and effort you put into making your videos and for making them so professionally. They are extremely informative, understandable, and absolutely among the best on the UA-cam!
Thanks for all your kind words Jesse, I appreciate it. Feedback like yours really makes my day!
Very interesting and well done video. The details, trial and error, and changes to the plan are very useful, thanks!
Thanks, I appreciate your feedback.
always learning thanks
Another good video! Like yourself I did photography (portrait and wedding) for many years and appreciate what you put into each video. Take care my friend.
thanks, it takes a good photographer to know one doesn't it? Actually, this particular video was made before I invested in a whole bunch of high power LED movie lights, you'll notice my later videos are much better lit.
I am very impressive of your simple and smarter works, l am not so smart with lathe tool but you give me hope, l want to upgrade my lathe to
Thank you very much!
Thanks, I resally enjoyed that. I appreciate the sharing of your knowledge in a way it can be understood easily.
Glad it was helpful!
With your electrical background anodising the aluminium would be a option for colouring instead of paint.
Thanks for the your great video
yes, I have often thought about anodizing and electroplating and might get into that at some point. There are some good UA-cam videos about electroplating that I've seen. Apparently it's fairly easy to plate nickel etc.
This is perfect for me. No having to learn about stepper motors, hall effect sensors and them fancy CNC controllers. Give me simplicity or give me death!
I hear you John! 😀. Keep It Simple Stupid!
Great video!
Hi Guy,
Nicely done. A simple solution is a good solution. Recognizing problems and solutions is the best part of engineering!
A note of concern - they type on coupling and amount of axial misalignment will lead to a failure. I speak from experience on this. Other types of couplings deal better with this issue. I would look into jaw type (AKA spider) or disk type.
Thanks ken, I agree about the kiss principle, keep it simple stupid right?
I did experiment with other flexible couplings and I'm happy with this one but I'm keeping a spare around just in case of a failure. I don't much like the spider couplings and the other rubber ones aren't strong enough for this load.
Hi Guy, nice to see you enjoying yourself. I am like a 'negative' of you in that I am a retired mechanical engineer now having fun(?) restoring old analogue oscilloscopes. If I might make a simple observation, it would be preferable to mount motors, accesories or what have you, on 3 points wherever possible, to avoid single plane through the fixings. Far more stability & rigidity this way but you seem to be a switched on guy (no pun intended), so I'm sure you are aware of this. Happy fettling!
You read me right, I'm a semi-retired electron twiddler. I mostly did electronic product design and prototyping.
Thanks for your thoughts about motor mounting, sometimes getting three bolts in appropriate places is not always simple or easy though.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Agreed, but worth the effort.
Awesome job a lot of people have done this but I don’t know why and they never said if they disconnected the the drive gears
Yes, I disconnected my drive gears. Don't plan to use them for threading since I have taps and dies for that.
Nice work and great detail. I subbed! Thanks for sharing and take care!
Thanks for the sub!
Hi Guy
I think you have drawn one diode in de wrong direction. As the schematic is drawn like it is now, and you put positive to the bottom and negative to the top (to the right of the reversing switch) the motor keeps running when either of the limit switches is activated.
Oops! You're absolutely right. I'm a little dyslexic and get things backwards fairly often. Somehow I managed to wire it up correctly though! Thanks for pointing that out.
Like your style and videography, Guy! Newly sub'd after watching your lathe upgrades vid. Had mine for a number of years now, lots of mods and projects...love it for what I do. Quality components (PS-low ripple + 180k max load frequency & Nice Motor) and so agree about the speed controls $8-Whaat. Curious where you got the limit switches? Might suggest use your hex collet block and true up the flats on the hex nut on the centerline of the lead screw. They are notoriously out of square and CL...although the 1/4 hex driver and socket not much better. It will take the load off the lead screw pillow block and coupler and likely spin truer. Hat Tip! ~PJ
Thanks, I appreciate your compliments! I'm not too worried about chewing up that hex nut, there's just a lot of slop between the hex driver anyway. I have added a link to representative micro switches in the description, but there are many like them.
Unfortunately I load tested the carriage and learned that the helical coupling is not rated for high loads and it failed dramatically! I have changed the link to one that I hope will work...
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Thanks for the limit switch link. It wasn't chewing up the nut, but the wobble around Center Line, I was referring to. That wobble was causing undo pressure on the lead screw pillow bearing and the whole machine appeared to oscillate with it. It also might have caused the premature failure of the first coupling but don't know what the load rating of that coupling was (nor the new one)...motor is at 12Nm stall...a good starting value provided everything is aligned on CL and reasonably balanced.
One thing I found on mine was how poorly aligned and adjusted the auto feed system was. Mine actually bowed the lead screw when I got it. Took it all apart and cleaned, deburred, aligned and adjusted the half nuts, gibs and white litho greased it all on reassembly...made a world of difference.
Like you said it was a good thing to take it all apart and go through it first thing. Once again, Thanks for sharing your mods and insights!
So if you needed to you could still use the gears in the head to power the carriage for threading or not ? (putting the gears back in and disconnecting your motor drive) ?
Yes . . . in theory. You would need to physically disconnect the motor at the coupling. Since the gears are "geared" primarily to threading, I prefer to use taps and dies for that.
Another well done project and video.
Some months ago I ordered a lathe and its been on backorder until last week. It should be here in a week or two..... Bringing me into the ranks of "metal pieces and chips maker", perhaps someday "parts maker" too.
I have a question regarding chips. What have you found to be the best way to keep the chips cleaned up from your mill and lathe? I have a friend who melts aluminum into ingots.
I have a baking pan underneath my lathe to catch most of the chips, and then of course a Shop-Vac to clean up everything from the lathe and mill. I don't save the chips with melting them down in mind though...
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff thank you
Your friend may have some hard times melting chips. Lots of oil means lots of toxic smoke and fire hazard.
@@jakubkopec9313 Good point. Dishwashing detergent cuts oil, but then he'd have to make sure the chips are dry.
Today I was fly cutting Delrin and that stuff has particularly nasty fumes when it gets hot. It kind of peels back from the cut, but there's a lot of fine prices in the aluminum chips now
@@RobertLBarnard you will be better off collecting beer cans than trying to recycle aluminum. I can see some merit in recycling brass bronze and copper, but you should sort them, IE collect them on the tarp. There would need to be kilograms of it to make any sense. I would prefer to buy scrap metal and melt it.
Wondering about strength of the bracket corner after cutting away ~1/2 of the material and motor weight (?) and vibration. I note there is a sort of gusset in that piece of angle stock so that helps.
It's quarter inch wall aluminum, really strong!
thanks for the informative video, did you cut down the shaft on the second gear drive motor??
No, I used it entirely as is.
Hi could you please tell me which kind of Diodes did you use what’s the number thank you
You can use a 1N4004 or any diode rated for at least 1Amp and the voltage you are powering your motor with X 1.5. The diode is only conducting for the brief moment that the motor is reversing away from the switch until it closes.
Excellent video. Thank you! I have the same mini lathe. How did you drill for the tapped holes in the tail-stock end of the cast iron lathe bed? Thanks for your reply!
Cast iron is easy to drill into, I just used my cordless drill and the right tap drill bit. Easy peasy!
16:36 😮Can you make inner key ways with tha new system????????
No, the motor doesn't have enough power to drive the carriage for that, but I could use the tail stock to push a cutter into a hole to form the key. I will have to try that sometime.
wondering, as i have watched a few of your other videos, as you have recently upgraded the motor on your mini milling machine with a 24v unit; is this 24v power supply large enough to also use the same or similar motor to upgrade this lathe in the future utilizing the same power supply, or is that too much load for a the power supply utilized for this project?
The 24 volt power supply I used is just sufficient for the motor I used on the milling machine I would not use that same motor on the lathe because it's not reversible, and reversing is very handy on the lathe, but really not necessary on a mill.
I have plans to do the same on my lathe. I have a C4 lathe and bought a car wiper motor 12V for the job. I would like to know if your setup is able to power feed while cutting metal? Steel or aluminium. At what depth of cut?
A wiper motor might be sufficient, just be sure to use a power supply with about double the stall current of the motor.
I have been cutting aluminum and brass at pretty good depths and it works great so far. I did stall it once and the flex coupling got wrecked - so that's my safety! ;)
what motor and drive did you use please
Links are all in the description!
I noticed that when you soldered the diodes to the limit switches one was soldered up towards the bed and the other away from the bed, is there a reason for this? Are these diodes fly-back diodes? Great video by the way.
Thanks for catching that, it's a mistake. Both diodes should point towards the motor. The diodes allow electricity to pass by the open switch so the motor can run backwards to move away from the switch. It's explained in an early part of the video, take your time to review that again.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff thank you for your response. I will watch the video again. I have one more thought, you mentioned that you wouldn’t be able to do threading without the gears. Since you have control of the speed of the lead screw independent of the spindle it might be possible for you to cut threads by determining how fast or slow the lead screw needs to travel in order to cut a specific thread. Might be a project worthy of further investigation.
@@taranson3057 nope, that dog won't hunt. You have two DC motors that are just running wild - even the slightest change in load will change the speed of either one. There are people who have put stepper motors in both places and that gives you CNC precision, I'm just not going there! No computers for me.
Mr Guy I see you have the same 7x14 lathe I have that prolly has the same problems Ive had..........well, as said previously the speed switch "potentiometer on mine has went bad meaning itll come on al of a sudden..............looking at the part number on the part reads WTH-118 4K7-2W.so I looked on ebay I seen some but not sure if thats the exact part that will work.......am hoping maybe you can you plez verify that # is correct for that part thanx
Stan, every lathe is different and they often used different potentiometers even in the same production run. But from the part number I can surmise that it is a 4.7 K Ohm potentiometer rated for 2 W. So something like this should work:
www.amazon.com/Fielect-Trimmer-Potentiometer-Resistor-Universal/dp/B082TZY1J7/ref=sr_1_6?crid=RQX9X1HJ2WIJ&keywords=potentiometer%2B4.7k%2B2W&qid=1649710139&sprefix=potentiometer%2B4.7k%2B2w%2Caps%2C81&sr=8-6&th=1
You may need to cut off the extra contact opposite the three main contacts if it is not used in your particular lathe. but be advised that your machine may use a different potentiometer rated at 10 K ohms or some other strange value.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff k thanx I might have to send you a pic of this one so we can be sure.........
@@stanburdick9708 if you have a voltmeter you can measure the resistance across the outer two of the three contacts while the potentiometer is completely disconnected from any other circuit. That will tell you the resistance that you need in Ohms which is the critical value for this application.
God! You look like a spit image of my uncle😯