I don't think I've ever heard anyone say "Bob IS your uncle" before and now I don't think I can ever say it differently from now on so thank you for that.
I just found your channel and this is just the kind of upgrades I can do to my Mini-mill without all the other metal machine tools like lathe or welders etc., that I have seen all over YT. I even like the ring light and am thinking of using it even on my drill press
Since most mini-mill owners never tilt the column, you might consider fixing it permanently at 90*. It will improve rigidity. Also the big pivot bolt actually compresses the hollow column so alleviating that would also improve stiffness.
Thank you for your time and effort putting this together. I purchased one of these mills about a year ago, and it already had the motor upgrade on it, but I want to put the DR owes on it next. I appreciate your efforts. Thanks again
I'm glad my video was helpful. I particularly like the touch DRO because it's less expensive and he can update the software over time as well. It runs on any Android tablet.
Good video, well spoken and clear......one of the most important add ons for any mill would have to be the DRO.......when you have one it opens up a whole new world of accuracy, I would put it top of the list second to none.
Nice video and a lot of nice upgrades. I bought a Grizzly min mill a few months ago. I view the mini lathes and mini mills as kits that come assembled and you get to take them apart and reassemble them with improvements in function and accuracy. A video on making the touch DRO would be very interesting to me and perhaps others. I had not known of the kit option that works with Igagin's DRO. Thanks for this video.
I actually tried the inexpensive kit and bought the iGauging scales separately. Unfortunately I couldn't get it to work. I would get readings but they would jump around the moment I started my cross slide motor or the main motor. I worked for days trying to eliminate the interference issues and couldn't do it. So that's why I went with magnetic slides because they're much easier to install (although more expensive).
AWESOME information! I love the repurposing of off the shelf products! I am a retired motor controls engineer, I have a harbor freight lathe / mill / Drill combo that is on my list of projects. The issues with the low cost DRO isn’t surprising. All variable speed motor controls can create noise that interferes with low level signals, DC is much worse than AC, add in running them on single phase for the worst possible scenario! Using an isolation transformer to feed the DC controllers might eliminate the problem. Using sensors that are immune like you did is the ultimate solution ! I am looking at the possibility of utilizing motors from RC vehicles for power feed. The latest technology RC motors are amazing on power and low speed torque. They also have a lot of gearing options available at low cost. If they work I can run them off of RC battery packs or separate power supply.
Thanks for your kind words. Yes, brushless DC motors for advanced hobby vehicles are crazy powerful and I'm sure a geared motor would work fine. I like the fact that the DC gear motor that I used is a little under powered and will stall out if overloaded. Keep that in mind when you specify a motor because if you overpower it it could damage things.
Hi again Guy! Just somewhat recently talked with you about the mini lathe deburring and cleaning and have had this machine in my sights for years. I absolutely LOVE the touch DRO idea with the tablet.. been looking for a while now at the 7 segment LED dro's and they are quite expensive. Looking at going the self built PCB route (self assembled kit) from the touchdro site and will be getting those installed on my minilathe and hopefully soon this little guy! Thanks for posting and love your ideas and thorough detailing. Keep it up and enjoy!
Thanks for your kind words. Make sure and get either magnetic or optical scales for your dro. I started out trying with the really cheap ones and couldn't get it to work. Magnetic scales in particular are really easy to use, just cut to length with a hacksaw. Little Machine Shop sell a 1 m length with all the little mounting parts which is plenty for most machines
Thanks! I'm amazed when it comes to the LED lights that the machinery suppliers STILL try getting an arm and a leg for lights like the magnetic task light you added.
It just takes time and patience! :) I also have a few other videos about improving the machine that you might want to look at in my machining playlist.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Good to hear! People like your builds. Let me know if you want a free forum account (usually $39/year), and I'll email you the details and you can post your videos on our forum whenever you want to build your channel. We have lots of YTers on board; looks like you're one of us.
I moved the hole for up down axis to balance it without major overhaul. Then I crashed the plastic gears, and I replaced it with the belt drive, much better and quiet. Then add an auto head light led ring light like you did and now I can see. As for the right left axis I used a car 12 v window motor to drive the bed and made my own power supply with speed control and right left switch. A little connector under the left end lets me use it or not.
Great minds think alike! I didn't think to use the car window motor that I had. It's kind of bulky isn't it? The smaller one that I purchased for my left right movement is just barely powerful enough, but it works so I'm not going to mess with it.
@@jamesacker7343 yes, I'm working on installing a similar motor to drive the carriage screw on my mini lathe. I ended up going with a relatively expensive 24 V DC right angle helical drive motor. That video will be out in a few weeks if you're interested.
Great video, I have done lots of the similar upgrades on my machine. I also added the power draw bar & CNC conversion. You can find a few videos on my channel.
Brilliant! 👍👍 I've been debating maybe getting one of these mills. It will either be a tool that turns out I will use all the time, or one that I will rarely use... 🤔
I totally understand. I bought mine and didn't use it much until more recently when I kept finding more and more uses for it. That's why I fitted it out and upgraded it so much.
Very cool. I'm trying to learn how to do these kind of things. Been a carpenter my whole life and after watching thousands of engineering videos on UA-cam and metal work, I really want to learn another trade. You never know how handy this could be. Also it looks like so much fun. There's a lot to learn. Also what brand of mini lathe do you use. That's another one im looking for. Lol
Hi Frankie, I bought the cheapest no brand mini lathe I could find. It was less than $500 on eBay if I remember correctly. As I mentioned in the video it's great to buy cheap and then spend a week getting to know the Machine by stripping it down fixing it and putting it back together again.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff ok thank you so much buddy. I actually just found that video and watched it. Thank you for your help. I subbed to your channel, you seem like a great teacher. Thank you for your help, take care bud.
This is great! Would love to do some of that to mine, especially a DRO and those power buttons. Those magnetic scales seem to be about the easiest to install that I've seen for this mill. Question for you. Have you had any problems with the table locks? I'm not sure if mine are within spec. They don't "lock" as much as they just provide a bit of resistance. You can move the table or the quill with them in the locked position before even realizing it. The quill especially has become a problem when cutting because it'll force it to lower during the cut unless I both lock it and engage the dog teeth. Any tips on what to do to make them engage tighter? I haven't broken down the mill yet at all.
If you inadvertently lubed the ways with regular oil, that would make them too slippery. You should only use proper way oil which has stiction to help things stay in place. I have always been able to tighten things so they don't move, so this might be your issue.
Hi there - have you ever thought about upgrading the drawbar collet change situation? I love the pneumatic ones I have seen for larger mills, so am thinking about trying to figure it out for the smaller ones like you and I have (I have the Northern Tool Klutch variant). I have done a conventional DRO so wondered how your scales hook into your Touch DRO tablet? My scales have the standard DB type connectors. Do you post your switch wiring anywhere? That is really slick along with your tach. Great job on these and thanks for posting!!
I have no plans to do a drawbar quick change. It's just not that important to me. Any scales with a DB9 connector should be compatible with the touchDRO. Check his website for details. I used magnetic scales because they are easier to cut to length and mount.
Great video Guy. I just received my HF mini mill & am anxious to get to work with calibration and upgrades . I think a drive on the X table is almost a must . What ratio gear motor did you use. I look forward to doing all of your upgrades and thank you for sharing
I do not subscribe to that thinking. I have been using my machine for years without upgrading the column. It's possible that these people who complain about it come from using large Bridgeport machines and expect the same performance from a hobby machine.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Thank you Guy I am just getting around to setting up my LMS X2D mill and your video was very helpful. Im sitting on the fence about doing the belt drive conversion but their seems to be mixed emissions on it some say you lose a lot of torque with it. What are your thoughts on the belt drive. Thanks again Bob
The trouble with mounting the X-axis scale on the back of the table is that you lose about an inch of Y-axis travel. I managed to mount mine on the front after modifying the gib adjusting and locking system and adding a side extension to the table. Does the v-belt drive modification cause you to lose torque? I have seen this remark elsewhere.
Yes, I'm aware of the reduced X-axis travel, but it's no big deal for me. I did consider putting the scale on the front, but it was just too messy. The V-belt works very well with the special belt I got from Grainger that is very "grippy". Actually the motor has a torque limit that shuts it off more often than belt slip. And of course, I can adjust the belt tension to enable slipping if I need to. Beats the heck out of stripping plastic (phenolic?) gears! :)
Thanks for watching! Sure, I might do a quick video about that, but I'm currently producing an extensive video about motorizing the carriage on my mini lathe that uses all of the same concepts. So stay tuned for that and it might answer those questions for you.
The motor I use for my Y axis drive was: "Aobbmok DC Motor 12V Low Speed 180 RPM High Torque Little Geared Motor with Metal Gear Reducer ". www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DYS2LHS
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Thanks, I have used these motors in 30 rpm. They are great but the gear box does not mesh well in reverse. The ones I have used only like going in one direction. I had a look inside the gear box and I saw that the gears were not set up for both directions. have you found any problems with your going in both directions?
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff A closer look at your motor shows me it is longer and probably more powerful that the motors on the two units I have. My application does not require any power, just slow turning a small drum
Thank you for sharing really great upgrades. Do you have any issues with the tilt column when tramming the head? My mill is similar a Seig X2 and plan to kit it out like you have done.
No, I had no trouble tramming in the column. I made a tramming adapter for my dial indicator that brings the indicator out 8 inches from the chuck. I then loosened the big nut on the back just enough so that I could take a small rubber mallet and tap tap the top of the column gently to move it a little then I would retest the left and right swing with the dial indicator. Took about 15 minutes. The best test of a well trammed machine is a large diameter fly cutter pass on some aluminum, you want to see both the front and the rear edge of the cutter leaving an impression in the metal. You get these beautiful interference patterns when you hold it up to the light when it's a perfect cut.
Hey Guy, what’s the turning knob switch you installed in the mill? It seems to not come with the existing kit. Mine just gave out (switch doesn’t work anymore but motor is fine) and I’d be interested to know what you used!
if you are talking about the big red/green buttons - that was a major hack to the electronics that I would not recommend. I have since replaced the motor with a 600W brushless one that has very simple controls: ua-cam.com/video/ndhsCeuEv-4/v-deo.html I particularly like the emergency stop feature.
What’s with the run out at the top of the spindle, and the worm shaft where it connects to your x axis drive. Is something bent? Mi Micro Mark mini mill, which looks similar to yours doesn’t have this. You have some very nice ideas for upgrades.
Where did you get the nice start -stop push buttons and box? They do not look like they are maintain contact so do you use a latch relay? Any schematic to how you wired them in? Like the small crank handle so any basic dimensions on the handle offset and size? I've head comments how the ring lights cast shadows when you use a drill chuck. Still wonder if the LMS belt drive is worth the $160 cost? Not real happy with my igauge DRO but I guess you get what you pay for. Enjoy your video.
If you search the web for a "power tool start stop switch" you will find inexpensive switches off the shelf. I choose to make my own because I'm an electrical engineer and I used video arcade game buttons and a 10 amp relay. Yes, the ring light does cause shading with chucks and large fly cutters, but things held in the R8 collets when they are right close up to the head or very well lit. I'm planning to do a detailed video about that ring light.
Designed a lot of control panels in my day when most were AB 800T series switches and pb of all types. Hate that flap switch on mine so should do something! Getting lazy at 74.😥
wondering if youve had any trouble with the Z gib lock lever ..........fixed mine once and it happened again but forgot what I did , or maybe that round radget piece is stripped where the srcrew goes in???
Hi Guy question on the table motor controler what is the power input to the controler /.I would like to get a little information on that . did you use a transformer to supply it ? . Thats not stright 115 volts ac right? thanks paul
It's a 12 volt DC motor on a transformer. I did something very similar for the carriage on my lathe. See this video: ua-cam.com/video/B18NLCKUYK0/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Thanks for your reply. I am not a machinist, but want to get better at this for my simple purposes. I would like to know what length the scales were that you used, and the make of that nice DRO you utilized for your mill.
I'm not a machinist either! Just a hobbyist doing my best. Links to the DRO and scales are in the description. The Touch DRO uses an Android tablet and I want the tablet with the software pre-installed by Little Machine Shop. Hope this helps.
Great job, with the mods. I have just picked up a Grizzly version of this milling machine, and I'm trying to do similar things as you did. Could you please describe some of the mods, for example the start/stop button mod, also which motor/power supply did you use for the power feed? A handle can't be used anymore, right?
thanks, I am sure you will enjoy that Grizzly milling machine! If you do a Google search on "power tool start stop switch" you will find a switch like the one I built from scratch. They are quite affordable. I used a 160 RPM 12 V DC motor like this one from Amazon: www.amazon.com/BRINGSMART-10kg-cm-Self-locking-Reversed-Rotating/dp/B07F8RYKB8/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3VT3QS57447C2&keywords=right+angle+worm+gear+dc+motor&qid=1644072093&sprefix=right+angle+DC+gear+motor%2Caps%2C845&sr=8-13 Any wall power module rated for at least 500 mA will work to power it. You may need to look up how to wire a DC reversing switch. the speed controller I used already comes with a start/stop button and the speed control knob. Right, I no longer have a handle because I couldn't figure out how to engineer a clutch. If you want to spend the money, little Machine Shop have a complete power feed kit but it's quite pricey.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Yes, those are good ways of tramming the head. I even have at work the Edge Technologies double dial tramming tool. I'm a (manual)machinist by trade. I even machine flight parts, that will go to the moon by the end of this year, and next.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff The switches are no problem, I've got a fairly well stocked electronics bench. I'm curious what modification specifically you made to the controller board. BTW - You've got a new subscriber!
@@jrkorman I didn't modify the control board. The button switches just activate a relay to switch the 120 volt power. Well you can make your own as I did, it's a lot simpler to just buy a power tool start/stop switch. And thanks for the sub!
Guy, thanks for what you do love your videos after I found them a few days ago. I’ve looked at your links and I can’t find where you got your start stop switch with your power on LED lights. Can you give me an idea for a link where I could pick this up? Thank you
I am an electrical engineer, so I built my start/stop switch from scratch. But if you search the web for: "power tool start stop switch", you will find many inexpensive options. - I'll add a note in my description that mentions this since other people have asked.
@@kennethwealot9592 Each switch will be a little different. But the general idea is you want to switch the AC power coming into the machine. So you would cut the black wire inside the control box and connect each side of the cut wire to the two screw contacts inside the switch. In theory, your switch may be different though.
I am looking to purchase a mini mill and I appreciate the time you spent on showing the upgrades. Does this mini mill cut steel ok? What was the cost of the belt drive upgrade?
All mini mills will cut steel, you just have to go slow and have the right tooling. Check the description for links to everything I talked about in the video, I don't remember pricing.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff doesn't the raised profile of the auto feed control panel interfere with the table, restricting usable placement options? the factory stock auto feed unit top surface is flush with table surface, and so is the handwheel . please pardon my nit picking, yours is very involved upgrades and both informative and inspiring. I am in love with these little machines and heavily mod mine too ... and i get really get into it ... thanks for sharing .
@@martinmengh yes, you are absolutely right. In retrospect I would've mounted everything below the table surface. On a recent long project that stuck out beyond the length of the table I had to Mount the item I was machining up on 123 blocks which worked out okay. But I might reengineer my motor drive control box to be below the table surface at some point in the future.
You purchase a 3-ft length of magnetic scale, then the heads separately from Littlemachineshop.com, and finally they Touch Dro interface and tablet to complete an entire system
Hi, nice video. do you have the reference or link for the motor of your powerfeed. I bought one that seems identical, but it is does not have enough torque for a powerfeed on a mini mill. or may be you have some ball screws on the x axis ? thanks.
The motor I used is this one: amzn.to/3DitFh6 and I used this controller: amzn.to/3ro8tmY (as an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.) Maybe the one you got was too fast - and thus lower torque? There are dozens of identical motors with different speeds.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I have one similar but at 160RPM, and it is announced at 10kg.cm of torque but I doubt it ... other are as 1.2kg.cm torque. shame the one on your link is not available anymore ...
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff thanks, I'm searching. it could really help if you could measure YOUR motor body dimensions , that we know has enough torque? height and diameter ? there are so many different motors, and chinese sellers are often very generous with the torque calculations ! thanks again.
Thanks! :) I used a 12V 1.5A wall adapter that I had laying around. It was from an old Netgear router. Generally it's good to use an adapter that has 2X the power that the motor needs so it doesn't overheat or fail. So if the stall current of your motor is 700mA then use a 1.5A adapter.
I used the 80mm, but your machine (if not an HF) may vary. Just measure your spindle OD. www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078Y6MFNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Great video. Thanks. I am looking for a mill to miter chromoly bicycle tubing with a hole saw, but don't have room in my shop for a full size mill. Is the power and rigidity of this mill be sufficient for this?
I don't really think you need a mill for what you're trying to do. A good drill press and a strong drill press vice should suffice. If you have watched Colin Furze videos you will see he has some very clever jigs for doing what you're trying to do. Check out some of his weird bicycle videos to see what I'm talking about.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Probably true, a good drill press and vice would work, but I'm also wanting milling capabilities to make other things and I'm hoping this little mill is better quality than most central machinery stuff.
@@adamhoff3448 understood, I was able to use my harbor freight mini Mill right out of the box after a small amount of cleanup and tightening the Gibbs. None of these machines are perfect as delivered so you will need to spend at least half a day learning how to dial it in and getting it trued up, but it will have enough power I think.
Do you have a link for T-nuts that fit the HF44991 table slots, the 2 that came with the Mill fit perfect, but I've ordered extra's from 2 different places and both of them were just far enough off, that they wouldn't fit in the table slots.
I bought a complete clamping kit from HF that has the right size t-nuts. 6 nuts and many bolts and clamp bars. Essential for the mill, so I recommend getting that set.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Thanks for the lightning fast response, Actually I did that exact same thing . . . When I ordered the Mill, during check-out there was a bunch of suggested items that I might also like to purchase, one of them was a 58pc. combination step block and clamp set, so I added that to the order, but the (6)T-Nuts don't fit the table, so rather than go through the return process I thought I'd research just buying T-nuts, ( the threaded bolt pattern works fine) Anyway thanks for your input . . . I'll contact HB and see if they can correct the order.
@@dquin2932 as you probably know by now there are a variety of different tea slot sizes and I think your best option is to return/exchange your clamp set for one that fits your machine. You won't regret it!
'Hello Guy! I have another question for you please: I hear horror strories from the users of these red HF mini mills with the tiltable column that unless one strengthens the base of the column it's impossible to mill anything because the end mills will break like mad one by one. They insist the column needs to be solidified. I see many people use these mills without such extreme mods and they work for them. Who should I believe? I don't want to get in trouble after buying one.
Sorry, I thought I had replied to this. I don't do a lot of extreme milling with steel, so I don't see the column being stressed enough to go out of tram. I do periodically check and re-tram the column - especially if I'll be using a big fly cutter. I have never broken an end mill - that's usually operator error, or learning the hard way what speeds and feeds to use. Of course carbide bits are much easier to break if you're not careful.
Very cool I love your project I have similar mini milling machine i got it new but I can't remove bore from spindel I try to much but dosent want to come out do you have any idea
@@ddlc7022 Sorry, but when I removed those buttons recently as part of the brushless motor upgrade, I forgot to document how I wired those buttons. There was no relay, so I really don't recall how I did the wiring - it was just the 2 arcade game buttons. The upgraded motor video shows how I wired one red button as a STOP button, but that's a totally different control system: ua-cam.com/video/ndhsCeuEv-4/v-deo.html
Hello. Tell me please - why you living in the US and being able to obtain at bargain prices (compared to us overseas buggers) great American built Taig and Sherline mini mills of which Taig is just unbelieveable machine in terms of precision you still preferred Chinese made Sieg clone to them? I'm here not being able to get the Taig mill at any price, they are simply not supplied over here and I consider you so lucky that you can get Taig just at the click of a mouse. Chinese machines are plenty over here but my dream is Taig.
I bought the cheapest lathe and mill I could get to save money. And to be honest, I really enjoy fixing up these machines and making them better and more useful. maybe one day I will upgrade to an Emco or Sherline, but for now the Harbor freight mini mill suits my needs perfectly.
That's one way to look at it. But the other way to look at it is it's a somewhat affordable machine that with some relatively affordable upgrades becomes a quite good machine. As a hobbyist, I have enjoyed every moment of upgrading this and all my other machines.
Is it made in China? If it is, don't show it as another cheap rubbish. Demo is nothing, it's the actual work on it that proves the quality isn't any good. I have one and know what I am talking about. If it is made in the US, I know from history that machines made in the US are tops. And, I like the stand. 😉👍
Sure, it's pure Chinesium! But the fun part is taking a cheap machine and making it better. I can't justify the $$ to buy a US made mill, and honestly had more fun improving this Harbor Freight machine.
Yes Little Machine Shop sell a power feed for about $500. Here's a link: littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4699&category=2122081982
I don't think I've ever heard anyone say "Bob IS your uncle" before and now I don't think I can ever say it differently from now on so thank you for that.
😄.
The Z knob/crank is brilliant.
Thanks! Note all the arrows indicating UP/DOWN on it - I'm a bit dyslexic, so it helps me to remember which way to turn it.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff lol so am I (dyslexic)
@@RobertLBarnard ha! It's my general understanding that dyslexia goes with high intelligence wouldn't you agree?
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I must agree!!
Just finished watching your lathe upgrades video. Excellent work!
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I am too and instantly knew what they were for. It's nice knowing I'm not too stupid to do this.
I just found your channel and this is just the kind of upgrades I can do to my Mini-mill without all the other metal machine tools like lathe or welders etc., that I have seen all over YT. I even like the ring light and am thinking of using it even on my drill press
Glad I could help! Have fun upgrading. Links to products are in the description.
Since most mini-mill owners never tilt the column, you might consider fixing it permanently at 90*. It will improve rigidity. Also the big pivot bolt actually compresses the hollow column so alleviating that would also improve stiffness.
I'm going to seriously consider this. I've seen other videos where people have made a permanent fix. But I worry about getting it perfect.
Thank you for your time and effort putting this together. I purchased one of these mills about a year ago, and it already had the motor upgrade on it, but I want to put the DR owes on it next. I appreciate your efforts. Thanks again
I'm glad my video was helpful. I particularly like the touch DRO because it's less expensive and he can update the software over time as well. It runs on any Android tablet.
Good video, well spoken and clear......one of the most important add ons for any mill would have to be the DRO.......when you have one it opens up a whole new world of accuracy, I would put it top of the list second to none.
Thanks! I totally agree. I really like the touch DRO - very friendly user interface.
Nice video and a lot of nice upgrades. I bought a Grizzly min mill a few months ago. I view the mini lathes and mini mills as kits that come assembled and you get to take them apart and reassemble them with improvements in function and accuracy. A video on making the touch DRO would be very interesting to me and perhaps others. I had not known of the kit option that works with Igagin's DRO. Thanks for this video.
I actually tried the inexpensive kit and bought the iGauging scales separately. Unfortunately I couldn't get it to work. I would get readings but they would jump around the moment I started my cross slide motor or the main motor. I worked for days trying to eliminate the interference issues and couldn't do it. So that's why I went with magnetic slides because they're much easier to install (although more expensive).
AWESOME information!
I love the repurposing of off the shelf products!
I am a retired motor controls engineer, I have a harbor freight lathe / mill / Drill combo that is on my list of projects.
The issues with the low cost DRO isn’t surprising. All variable speed motor controls can create noise that interferes with low level signals, DC is much worse than AC, add in running them on single phase for the worst possible scenario! Using an isolation transformer to feed the DC controllers might eliminate the problem. Using sensors that are
immune like you did is the ultimate solution !
I am looking at the possibility of utilizing motors from RC vehicles for power feed. The latest technology RC motors are amazing on power and low speed torque. They also have a lot of gearing options available at low cost.
If they work I can run them off of RC battery packs or separate power supply.
Thanks for your kind words. Yes, brushless DC motors for advanced hobby vehicles are crazy powerful and I'm sure a geared motor would work fine. I like the fact that the DC gear motor that I used is a little under powered and will stall out if overloaded. Keep that in mind when you specify a motor because if you overpower it it could damage things.
I appreciate the video man, I’ve been kicking around getting one of these for a few months now
thanks. Be advised that you'll spend about as much on tooling as the machine!
Excellent upgrades and presentation.
Love the modifications and will make a few of these myself!
Fantastic ideas and implementation! There are some significant improvements for my mini mill that warrant serious consideration!
I'm glad you're finding my ideas helpful. Check my playlist to see other improvements I have done to that machine including upgrading the drive motor.
Hi again Guy! Just somewhat recently talked with you about the mini lathe deburring and cleaning and have had this machine in my sights for years. I absolutely LOVE the touch DRO idea with the tablet.. been looking for a while now at the 7 segment LED dro's and they are quite expensive. Looking at going the self built PCB route (self assembled kit) from the touchdro site and will be getting those installed on my minilathe and hopefully soon this little guy! Thanks for posting and love your ideas and thorough detailing. Keep it up and enjoy!
Thanks for your kind words. Make sure and get either magnetic or optical scales for your dro. I started out trying with the really cheap ones and couldn't get it to work. Magnetic scales in particular are really easy to use, just cut to length with a hacksaw. Little Machine Shop sell a 1 m length with all the little mounting parts which is plenty for most machines
Great additions! Just want to add that this mill is known under different brands like Güde and Einhell in Europe
Thanks! Yes, this is a very generic machine that is rebranded under many different names.
Thanks!
I'm amazed when it comes to the LED lights that the machinery suppliers STILL try getting an arm and a leg for lights like the magnetic task light you added.
Yeah, it pays to be a smart shopper these days doesn't it!?
Very interesting. Clever ideas. Thanks
You’re welcome 😊
I hope I can get mine like that, I like what you did with yours
It just takes time and patience! :)
I also have a few other videos about improving the machine that you might want to look at in my machining playlist.
Nice job again. We shared this video on our homemade tools forum this week 😎
Thanks again for the boost! I'm seeing a lot of people coming over from your site!
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Good to hear! People like your builds. Let me know if you want a free forum account (usually $39/year), and I'll email you the details and you can post your videos on our forum whenever you want to build your channel. We have lots of YTers on board; looks like you're one of us.
@@homemadetools thanks for your kind offer! Yes, I would love to take you up on your offer. You can find my email address on my website. Guy
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Great, email sent.
Excelente... i like you ideas. I'm Brazilian people.
Thank you very much!
Very simple & functional add ons. Well done video. Thanks for sharing.
I hope you found some useful take-aways!
Awesome video! Great upgrade tips!!! Going to save this for my future endeavors... Thanks!
Guy, I just found your reply detailing the drive so disregard my request. I too am a new subscriber
I moved the hole for up down axis to balance it without major overhaul. Then I crashed the plastic gears, and I replaced it with the belt drive, much better and quiet. Then add an auto head light led ring light like you did and now I can see. As for the right left axis I used a car 12 v window motor to drive the bed and made my own power supply with speed control and right left switch. A little connector under the left end lets me use it or not.
Great minds think alike! I didn't think to use the car window motor that I had. It's kind of bulky isn't it? The smaller one that I purchased for my left right movement is just barely powerful enough, but it works so I'm not going to mess with it.
Car window motor is gear drive which slows it down and gives it plenty of power but look clunky
@@jamesacker7343 yes, I'm working on installing a similar motor to drive the carriage screw on my mini lathe. I ended up going with a relatively expensive 24 V DC right angle helical drive motor. That video will be out in a few weeks if you're interested.
Awesome uogrades. Considering buying this from HF and love the insight before buying. Thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Awesome video and upgrades give me something to look forward too upgrade my mini mill :)
I'm glad my video is helpful to you. Check out some of my other videos about upgrades and tool tips.
Very slick. Thanks for sharing!
hello Guy,nice video,thanks for sharing!
Hey, thanks I always appreciate feedback.
Great video. Thanks for sharing.
Good information, thank you.
Great video, I have done lots of the similar upgrades on my machine. I also added the power draw bar & CNC conversion. You can find a few videos on my channel.
Thanks, I have considered a power draw bar, but I'm not changing tools that often.
Thanks
Thank you for sharing. Very nice upgrades. Enjoyed.👍👀
Brilliant! 👍👍
I've been debating maybe getting one of these mills. It will either be a tool that turns out I will use all the time, or one that I will rarely use... 🤔
I totally understand. I bought mine and didn't use it much until more recently when I kept finding more and more uses for it. That's why I fitted it out and upgraded it so much.
Oh . . . PS . . . Awesome video, it gives me a lot of great ideas for future projects, Thanks.
Glad to hear it!
Well done! I learned a lot from this video. Thanks for taking your time to post this, I have liked and subscribed :)
You're welcome! I'm glad it was helpful.
sweet video,guy,thanks for sharing!
Thanks for watching!
Nice, just what I was wondering. 😁
Woowww you are so clever😮
Wow I'm convinced you are a wealth of quality information thank you so much I'm subscribed now
Thanks and welcome
Outstanding video. Thanks for sharing. Very impressive and educational.
Thanks! Check my other videos, there are a lot of mods and improvements I've made since then.
Thanks, you are a font of knowledge and ideas :-)
Thanks! I hope you find my current videos inspirational too.
Excellent video great up grades,nicly done
Very nice. Thanks for sharing.
Thanks for watching!
Very cool. I'm trying to learn how to do these kind of things. Been a carpenter my whole life and after watching thousands of engineering videos on UA-cam and metal work, I really want to learn another trade. You never know how handy this could be. Also it looks like so much fun. There's a lot to learn. Also what brand of mini lathe do you use. That's another one im looking for. Lol
Hi Frankie, I bought the cheapest no brand mini lathe I could find. It was less than $500 on eBay if I remember correctly. As I mentioned in the video it's great to buy cheap and then spend a week getting to know the Machine by stripping it down fixing it and putting it back together again.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff ok thank you so much buddy. I actually just found that video and watched it. Thank you for your help. I subbed to your channel, you seem like a great teacher. Thank you for your help, take care bud.
This is great! Would love to do some of that to mine, especially a DRO and those power buttons. Those magnetic scales seem to be about the easiest to install that I've seen for this mill. Question for you. Have you had any problems with the table locks? I'm not sure if mine are within spec. They don't "lock" as much as they just provide a bit of resistance. You can move the table or the quill with them in the locked position before even realizing it. The quill especially has become a problem when cutting because it'll force it to lower during the cut unless I both lock it and engage the dog teeth. Any tips on what to do to make them engage tighter? I haven't broken down the mill yet at all.
If you inadvertently lubed the ways with regular oil, that would make them too slippery. You should only use proper way oil which has stiction to help things stay in place.
I have always been able to tighten things so they don't move, so this might be your issue.
Excellent...!!
Glad you like it!
Whelp guess I know what I'm buying my next pay check
Careful, you get the mill and then there's so many tools and accessories and upgrades to buy! It never stops! :)
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff haha yes I know my self I'm going to get ot them proceed with the next few month upgrading parts on it 😅
Hi there - have you ever thought about upgrading the drawbar collet change situation? I love the pneumatic ones I have seen for larger mills, so am thinking about trying to figure it out for the smaller ones like you and I have (I have the Northern Tool Klutch variant). I have done a conventional DRO so wondered how your scales hook into your Touch DRO tablet? My scales have the standard DB type connectors. Do you post your switch wiring anywhere? That is really slick along with your tach. Great job on these and thanks for posting!!
I have no plans to do a drawbar quick change. It's just not that important to me.
Any scales with a DB9 connector should be compatible with the touchDRO. Check his website for details. I used magnetic scales because they are easier to cut to length and mount.
Mycket inspirerande video!!!!
Great video Guy. I just received my HF mini mill & am anxious to get to work with calibration and upgrades . I think a drive on the X table is almost a must . What ratio gear motor did you use. I look forward to doing all of your upgrades and thank you for sharing
I do not subscribe to that thinking. I have been using my machine for years without upgrading the column. It's possible that these people who complain about it come from using large Bridgeport machines and expect the same performance from a hobby machine.
Can you show us how you mounted the tach sensor and magnet? Thanks
Here's my video about adding tachometers:
ua-cam.com/video/M0AiAv8XL7c/v-deo.html
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Thank you Guy I am just getting around to setting up my LMS X2D mill and your video was very helpful. Im sitting on the fence about doing the belt drive conversion but their seems to be mixed emissions on it some say you lose a lot of torque with it. What are your thoughts on the belt drive. Thanks again Bob
@@bobkarstien1248 I'm very happy with the belt drive mod. It's very easy to tension the belt and I don't think there's any compromise in torque.
The trouble with mounting the X-axis scale on the back of the table is that you lose about an inch of Y-axis travel. I managed to mount mine on the front after modifying the gib adjusting and locking system and adding a side extension to the table.
Does the v-belt drive modification cause you to lose torque? I have seen this remark elsewhere.
Yes, I'm aware of the reduced X-axis travel, but it's no big deal for me. I did consider putting the scale on the front, but it was just too messy.
The V-belt works very well with the special belt I got from Grainger that is very "grippy". Actually the motor has a torque limit that shuts it off more often than belt slip. And of course, I can adjust the belt tension to enable slipping if I need to. Beats the heck out of stripping plastic (phenolic?) gears! :)
Can you make a video or describe how you put the switch in the motor controller? And where you sourced the dc drive motor?
Thanks for watching!
Sure, I might do a quick video about that, but I'm currently producing an extensive video about motorizing the carriage on my mini lathe that uses all of the same concepts. So stay tuned for that and it might answer those questions for you.
Thank you I will watch that also!
@@rodbrace1604 here it is: ua-cam.com/video/B18NLCKUYK0/v-deo.html
I use that same type of geared down motor, but they come in many different speeds. Which DC motor with the gear box did you use for the X axis?
The motor I use for my Y axis drive was: "Aobbmok DC Motor 12V Low Speed 180 RPM High Torque Little Geared Motor with Metal Gear Reducer ".
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07DYS2LHS
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Thanks, I have used these motors in 30 rpm. They are great but the gear box does not mesh well in reverse. The ones I have used only like going in one direction. I had a look inside the gear box and I saw that the gears were not set up for both directions.
have you found any problems with your going in both directions?
@@EL34XYZ No, I have used this motor a lot and really load it down sometimes with no issues.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff A closer look at your motor shows me it is longer and probably more powerful that the motors on the two units I have. My application does not require any power, just slow turning a small drum
Thank you for sharing really great upgrades. Do you have any issues with the tilt column when tramming the head?
My mill is similar a Seig X2 and plan to kit it out like you have done.
No, I had no trouble tramming in the column. I made a tramming adapter for my dial indicator that brings the indicator out 8 inches from the chuck. I then loosened the big nut on the back just enough so that I could take a small rubber mallet and tap tap the top of the column gently to move it a little then I would retest the left and right swing with the dial indicator. Took about 15 minutes. The best test of a well trammed machine is a large diameter fly cutter pass on some aluminum, you want to see both the front and the rear edge of the cutter leaving an impression in the metal. You get these beautiful interference patterns when you hold it up to the light when it's a perfect cut.
I just posted a video showing how I tram the column on my harbor freight machine:
ua-cam.com/video/8iK1hlLNB9E/v-deo.html
Hey Guy, what’s the turning knob switch you installed in the mill? It seems to not come with the existing kit. Mine just gave out (switch doesn’t work anymore but motor is fine) and I’d be interested to know what you used!
if you are talking about the big red/green buttons - that was a major hack to the electronics that I would not recommend. I have since replaced the motor with a 600W brushless one that has very simple controls: ua-cam.com/video/ndhsCeuEv-4/v-deo.html
I particularly like the emergency stop feature.
What’s with the run out at the top of the spindle, and the worm shaft where it connects to your x axis drive. Is something bent? Mi Micro Mark mini mill, which looks similar to yours doesn’t have this. You have some very nice ideas for upgrades.
There is no run out. It's some kind of optical effect from the video.
Do you have any Quadrophonic mixers for sale?
Yes, I make them to order and it takes a week or so.
Where did you get the nice start -stop push buttons and box? They do not look like they are maintain contact so do you use a latch relay? Any schematic to how you wired them in? Like the small crank handle so any basic dimensions on the handle offset and size? I've head comments how the ring lights cast shadows when you use a drill chuck. Still wonder if the LMS belt drive is worth the $160 cost? Not real happy with my igauge DRO but I guess you get what you pay for. Enjoy your video.
If you search the web for a "power tool start stop switch" you will find inexpensive switches off the shelf. I choose to make my own because I'm an electrical engineer and I used video arcade game buttons and a 10 amp relay.
Yes, the ring light does cause shading with chucks and large fly cutters, but things held in the R8 collets when they are right close up to the head or very well lit. I'm planning to do a detailed video about that ring light.
Designed a lot of control panels in my day when most were AB 800T series switches and pb of all types. Hate that flap switch on mine so should do something! Getting lazy at 74.😥
wondering if youve had any trouble with the Z gib lock lever ..........fixed mine once and it happened again but forgot what I did , or maybe that round radget piece is stripped where the srcrew goes in???
Nope, no problems with mine as yet. But I'll keep that in mind and have a look.
great set up
Thanks!
Hi Guy question on the table motor controler what is the power input to the controler /.I would like to get a little information on that . did you use a transformer to supply it ? . Thats not stright 115 volts ac right? thanks paul
It's a 12 volt DC motor on a transformer. I did something very similar for the carriage on my lathe. See this video:
ua-cam.com/video/B18NLCKUYK0/v-deo.htmlfeature=shared
Thanks for your reply. I am not a machinist, but want to get better at this for my simple purposes. I would like to know what length the scales were that you used, and the make of that nice DRO you utilized for your mill.
I'm not a machinist either! Just a hobbyist doing my best.
Links to the DRO and scales are in the description. The Touch DRO uses an Android tablet and I want the tablet with the software pre-installed by Little Machine Shop. Hope this helps.
Great job, with the mods. I have just picked up a Grizzly version of this milling machine, and I'm trying to do similar things as you did. Could you please describe some of the mods, for example the start/stop button mod, also which motor/power supply did you use for the power feed? A handle can't be used anymore, right?
thanks, I am sure you will enjoy that Grizzly milling machine! If you do a Google search on "power tool start stop switch" you will find a switch like the one I built from scratch. They are quite affordable.
I used a 160 RPM 12 V DC motor like this one from Amazon:
www.amazon.com/BRINGSMART-10kg-cm-Self-locking-Reversed-Rotating/dp/B07F8RYKB8/ref=sr_1_13?crid=3VT3QS57447C2&keywords=right+angle+worm+gear+dc+motor&qid=1644072093&sprefix=right+angle+DC+gear+motor%2Caps%2C845&sr=8-13
Any wall power module rated for at least 500 mA will work to power it. You may need to look up how to wire a DC reversing switch. the speed controller I used already comes with a start/stop button and the speed control knob.
Right, I no longer have a handle because I couldn't figure out how to engineer a clutch. If you want to spend the money, little Machine Shop have a complete power feed kit but it's quite pricey.
You may want to check out my latest video on how to tram the column:
ua-cam.com/video/8iK1hlLNB9E/v-deo.html
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Yes, those are good ways of tramming the head. I even have at work the Edge Technologies double dial tramming tool. I'm a (manual)machinist by trade. I even machine flight parts, that will go to the moon by the end of this year, and next.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff The switches are no problem, I've got a fairly well stocked electronics bench. I'm curious what modification specifically you made to the controller board. BTW - You've got a new subscriber!
@@jrkorman I didn't modify the control board. The button switches just activate a relay to switch the 120 volt power. Well you can make your own as I did, it's a lot simpler to just buy a power tool start/stop switch.
And thanks for the sub!
Guy, thanks for what you do love your videos after I found them a few days ago. I’ve looked at your links and I can’t find where you got your start stop switch with your power on LED lights. Can you give me an idea for a link where I could pick this up? Thank you
I am an electrical engineer, so I built my start/stop switch from scratch. But if you search the web for: "power tool start stop switch", you will find many inexpensive options. - I'll add a note in my description that mentions this since other people have asked.
Thank You, I’ve found a few on Amazon that I can modify. Love the videos and educational format that you use.
Hi guy great videos👍, I purchased a switch from Amazon but I have no clue how to wire it. Do you have a link to a wiring diagram of sorts?
@@kennethwealot9592 Each switch will be a little different. But the general idea is you want to switch the AC power coming into the machine. So you would cut the black wire inside the control box and connect each side of the cut wire to the two screw contacts inside the switch. In theory, your switch may be different though.
I am looking to purchase a mini mill and I appreciate the time you spent on showing the upgrades. Does this mini mill cut steel ok? What was the cost of the belt drive upgrade?
All mini mills will cut steel, you just have to go slow and have the right tooling.
Check the description for links to everything I talked about in the video, I don't remember pricing.
the riser cabinet seems rather weak to securely support the mill, considering it's made from MDF, and rather thin . You could see swaying in the video
Its actually reinforced in the corners and the swaying is due to the tool chest shifting around slightly on its wheels.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff doesn't the raised profile of the auto feed control panel interfere with the table, restricting usable placement options? the factory stock auto feed unit top surface is flush with table surface, and so is the handwheel . please pardon my nit picking, yours is very involved upgrades and both informative and inspiring. I am in love with these little machines and heavily mod mine too ... and i get really get into it ... thanks for sharing .
@@martinmengh yes, you are absolutely right. In retrospect I would've mounted everything below the table surface. On a recent long project that stuck out beyond the length of the table I had to Mount the item I was machining up on 123 blocks which worked out okay. But I might reengineer my motor drive control box to be below the table surface at some point in the future.
For the DRO, does it include the read heads or just the scale?
You purchase a 3-ft length of magnetic scale, then the heads separately from Littlemachineshop.com, and finally they Touch Dro interface and tablet to complete an entire system
Hi, nice video. do you have the reference or link for the motor of your powerfeed. I bought one that seems identical, but it is does not have enough torque for a powerfeed on a mini mill. or may be you have some ball screws on the x axis ? thanks.
The motor I used is this one: amzn.to/3DitFh6
and I used this controller: amzn.to/3ro8tmY
(as an Amazon Affiliate, I earn from qualifying purchases.)
Maybe the one you got was too fast - and thus lower torque? There are dozens of identical motors with different speeds.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff I have one similar but at 160RPM, and it is announced at 10kg.cm of torque but I doubt it ... other are as 1.2kg.cm torque. shame the one on your link is not available anymore ...
@@jeanyvespochez I'm sure if you research other sources like eBay you will turn up one. They are a very common motor.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff thanks, I'm searching. it could really help if you could measure YOUR motor body dimensions , that we know has enough torque? height and diameter ? there are so many different motors, and chinese sellers are often very generous with the torque calculations ! thanks again.
Guy. I like the power feed option you did. What is your power source you used for the dc motor?
Thanks! :) I used a 12V 1.5A wall adapter that I had laying around. It was from an old Netgear router. Generally it's good to use an adapter that has 2X the power that the motor needs so it doesn't overheat or fail. So if the stall current of your motor is 700mA then use a 1.5A adapter.
Guy what size light ring did you use on the spindle light
I used the 80mm, but your machine (if not an HF) may vary. Just measure your spindle OD.
www.amazon.com/gp/product/B078Y6MFNB/ref=ppx_yo_dt_b_search_asin_title?ie=UTF8&psc=1
Do you think I can do air cooled vw heads on this mill air cooled 1600
I have no idea.
Where can I get that blue vice
I've had it for years, and sorry I just don't remember where I got it. I do remember it was relatively inexpensive though.
Great video. Thanks. I am looking for a mill to miter chromoly bicycle tubing with a hole saw, but don't have room in my shop for a full size mill. Is the power and rigidity of this mill be sufficient for this?
I don't really think you need a mill for what you're trying to do. A good drill press and a strong drill press vice should suffice. If you have watched Colin Furze videos you will see he has some very clever jigs for doing what you're trying to do. Check out some of his weird bicycle videos to see what I'm talking about.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Probably true, a good drill press and vice would work, but I'm also wanting milling capabilities to make other things and I'm hoping this little mill is better quality than most central machinery stuff.
@@adamhoff3448 understood, I was able to use my harbor freight mini Mill right out of the box after a small amount of cleanup and tightening the Gibbs. None of these machines are perfect as delivered so you will need to spend at least half a day learning how to dial it in and getting it trued up, but it will have enough power I think.
Do you have a link for T-nuts that fit the HF44991 table slots, the 2 that came with the Mill fit perfect, but I've ordered extra's from 2 different places and both of them were just far enough off, that they wouldn't fit in the table slots.
I bought a complete clamping kit from HF that has the right size t-nuts. 6 nuts and many bolts and clamp bars. Essential for the mill, so I recommend getting that set.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Thanks for the lightning fast response, Actually I did that exact same thing . . . When I ordered the Mill, during check-out there was a bunch of suggested items that I might also like to purchase, one of them was a 58pc. combination step block and clamp set, so I added that to the order, but the (6)T-Nuts don't fit the table, so rather than go through the return process I thought I'd research just buying T-nuts, ( the threaded bolt pattern works fine)
Anyway thanks for your input . . . I'll contact HB and see if they can correct the order.
@@dquin2932 as you probably know by now there are a variety of different tea slot sizes and I think your best option is to return/exchange your clamp set for one that fits your machine. You won't regret it!
'Hello Guy! I have another question for you please: I hear horror strories from the users of these red HF mini mills with the tiltable column that unless one strengthens the base of the column it's impossible to mill anything because the end mills will break like mad one by one. They insist the column needs to be solidified. I see many people use these mills without such extreme mods and they work for them. Who should I believe? I don't want to get in trouble after buying one.
Sorry, I thought I had replied to this. I don't do a lot of extreme milling with steel, so I don't see the column being stressed enough to go out of tram. I do periodically check and re-tram the column - especially if I'll be using a big fly cutter. I have never broken an end mill - that's usually operator error, or learning the hard way what speeds and feeds to use. Of course carbide bits are much easier to break if you're not careful.
Do you have a video on the DRO
I don't yet, but thanks for the suggestion and I will consider that.
Would love to see it if you do
Very cool I love your project
I have similar mini milling machine i got it new but I can't remove bore from spindel I try to much but dosent want to come out do you have any idea
You need to tap down on the top of the drawer bar nut were they small hammer to release the Morse taper
I did even I used metall hamer and I heated hard its like jaam I put some oil inside also but dosent want to come out
@@masoudkolahi5354 Sorry I can't help you any further. Maybe watch other UA-cam videos by Frank Hoose's: "Introduction to the Mini MIll".
Where did you get the dro and scales, how much did it cost?
Check the description for links to everything. I don't remember costs.
Is the relay on the start/stop buttons just in parallel with the potentiometer switch ?
No, it turns on the 120V power to the machine
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Thank you very much
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Can you share the schematics ? I'm referring to the green and red button connections.
@@ddlc7022 Sorry, but when I removed those buttons recently as part of the brushless motor upgrade, I forgot to document how I wired those buttons. There was no relay, so I really don't recall how I did the wiring - it was just the 2 arcade game buttons. The upgraded motor video shows how I wired one red button as a STOP button, but that's a totally different control system: ua-cam.com/video/ndhsCeuEv-4/v-deo.html
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Never mind, I figured out how to do it on my machine, which is a Little Machine Mini Mill
Hello. Tell me please - why you living in the US and being able to obtain at bargain prices (compared to us overseas buggers) great American built Taig and Sherline mini mills of which Taig is just unbelieveable machine in terms of precision you still preferred Chinese made Sieg clone to them? I'm here not being able to get the Taig mill at any price, they are simply not supplied over here and I consider you so lucky that you can get Taig just at the click of a mouse. Chinese machines are plenty over here but my dream is Taig.
I bought the cheapest lathe and mill I could get to save money. And to be honest, I really enjoy fixing up these machines and making them better and more useful. maybe one day I will upgrade to an Emco or Sherline, but for now the Harbor freight mini mill suits my needs perfectly.
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff Suits your needs - that's the perfect answer for sure. Can't beat that.
In other words, this isn't very good and needs lots of expensive upgrades to even begin to be useful.
That's one way to look at it. But the other way to look at it is it's a somewhat affordable machine that with some relatively affordable upgrades becomes a quite good machine.
As a hobbyist, I have enjoyed every moment of upgrading this and all my other machines.
Is it made in China? If it is, don't show it as another cheap rubbish. Demo is nothing, it's the actual work on it that proves the quality isn't any good. I have one and know what I am talking about. If it is made in the US, I know from history that machines made in the US are tops. And, I like the stand. 😉👍
Sure, it's pure Chinesium! But the fun part is taking a cheap machine and making it better. I can't justify the $$ to buy a US made mill, and honestly had more fun improving this Harbor Freight machine.
Am long over due for x axis power fed and need to know if they make a unit for our hf mini mill..
Yes Little Machine Shop sell a power feed for about $500. Here's a link:
littlemachineshop.com/products/product_view.php?ProductID=4699&category=2122081982
@@GuyMarsdenMakesStuff $500??!!!😦 Hot damn I only paid $700 for the mill
nice! :D
Thanks! 😄