I'm milling norcal black walnut, juglans hindsii. From our yard. 4 trees were cured 4 years as logs. And I've milled some on my Woodlland Mills 122. Now I'm going to cut a tree 19" diameter w/bark, 10ft straight trunk and then branches on top. I would like to mill it green. Maybe the day I cut it. What saith Thou? Sept 28 1030am 2023 thanks. (I have some gorgeous wood figure. One log is slabbed 3" and is now becoming a table, fireplace mantle, speaker box sides, etc . Hindsii is the cats meow
Yes, absolutely mill it green. Advantages, 1) the contrast between sapwood and heartwood will be at it's best. (heartwood "bleeds" color into the sapwood if it sits too long) 2) if you mill it and immediately seal the ends of the slab, you can avoid cracks and splits resulting in more "useable" slab length and, hence, a more valuable slab. 3) Easier on the blade when green. Good luck!
@@DiegoDeOro Thanks. I sealed the ends with wax and paint on other logs. I will seal this one too. Nice and thick. Is there an ideal time of year to cut it? And is there an ideal thickness for the green wood? I'm going to sticker it and stack it under a plasttic carport, it will get all the winter weather coming up soon. Other wood is mostly cut 3". and it'a all 4-5 yrs old.
@@TheHypnotstCollector It's ideal to cut between late fall and early spring when the tree is in hibernation mode. It will contain less sap and water weight, which translates into 1) less weight, 2) less shrinkage, 3) less dry time and possibly reduced end splitting. Ideal thickness depends on final project requirements and how straight/flat the slab dries. This is where good drying practices are important to keep the slab straight and flat. If done well, less wood removal is necessary to make the slab flat, which means that less initial thickness is required. If dried well, cut at 10/4 (2 1/2") should give you plenty of thickness to turn into a 1.75 to 2" table top. Account for blade kerf, shrinkage, slab flattening which all narrow the final thickness. Good luck! Thanks for watching. 🙂
@@deorotonewoodmill Thanks. I'm going to cut it in the next week-ish...... The slabs will dry under a carport so they'll see the winter humidity etc. But no rain. And I'll wrap the slabs in tie downs to help keep them flat. I'm sooo fortunate to live in an old NorCal Black Walnut Orchard! This neighborhood has many trees and I'm going to do my best to give them a good home. Bought a 22" Woodland Mill in Jan. Cut 3 trees 4-5 yrs ago. The milling costs were so high that I just bought a mill!!
I'm milling norcal black walnut, juglans hindsii. From our yard. 4 trees were cured 4 years as logs. And I've milled some on my Woodlland Mills 122. Now I'm going to cut a tree 19" diameter w/bark, 10ft straight trunk and then branches on top. I would like to mill it green. Maybe the day I cut it. What saith Thou? Sept 28 1030am 2023 thanks. (I have some gorgeous wood figure. One log is slabbed 3" and is now becoming a table, fireplace mantle, speaker box sides, etc . Hindsii is the cats meow
Yes, absolutely mill it green. Advantages, 1) the contrast between sapwood and heartwood will be at it's best. (heartwood "bleeds" color into the sapwood if it sits too long) 2) if you mill it and immediately seal the ends of the slab, you can avoid cracks and splits resulting in more "useable" slab length and, hence, a more valuable slab. 3) Easier on the blade when green.
Good luck!
@@DiegoDeOro Thanks. I sealed the ends with wax and paint on other logs. I will seal this one too. Nice and thick. Is there an ideal time of year to cut it? And is there an ideal thickness for the green wood? I'm going to sticker it and stack it under a plasttic carport, it will get all the winter weather coming up soon. Other wood is mostly cut 3". and it'a all 4-5 yrs old.
@@TheHypnotstCollector It's ideal to cut between late fall and early spring when the tree is in hibernation mode. It will contain less sap and water weight, which translates into 1) less weight, 2) less shrinkage, 3) less dry time and possibly reduced end splitting.
Ideal thickness depends on final project requirements and how straight/flat the slab dries. This is where good drying practices are important to keep the slab straight and flat. If done well, less wood removal is necessary to make the slab flat, which means that less initial thickness is required.
If dried well, cut at 10/4 (2 1/2") should give you plenty of thickness to turn into a 1.75 to 2" table top. Account for blade kerf, shrinkage, slab flattening which all narrow the final thickness.
Good luck! Thanks for watching. 🙂
@@deorotonewoodmill Thanks. I'm going to cut it in the next week-ish...... The slabs will dry under a carport so they'll see the winter humidity etc. But no rain. And I'll wrap the slabs in tie downs to help keep them flat. I'm sooo fortunate to live in an old NorCal Black Walnut Orchard! This neighborhood has many trees and I'm going to do my best to give them a good home. Bought a 22" Woodland Mill in Jan. Cut 3 trees 4-5 yrs ago. The milling costs were so high that I just bought a mill!!
That's great, best of luck! Thanks for watching the channel. :-)