Nice looking beets. Yum. I would love to have one of those diggers. I would be guessing that digger is meant for a subcompact or compact tractor. They would be lower to the ground, so the drive shaft angle would not be as bad. Great video. Thanks.
Guess I'm not the only crazy Canuck that watches Yuriy Serbin LOL. I'm hoping to build my own single row potato digger this summer to use in the fall, be a cat 0 2000 RPM unit to work on one of my garden tractors vs a full size tractor. Cool video !!
Mine has a slot for the top link pin. If it wasn't like that we wouldn't be able to shorten the top link enough. The other set ahha moment is when we realized that the rear shaker screen needs to be quite flat.
You adjust your depth by adjusting the top link on the three point hitch. Lengthen the top link to make it more shallow, shorten the top link to make it more deep.
Depth is set by the control arms and held by draft control in relation to the rear trailing wheels, the top link adjusts the angle of the entire digger, the linkage on the digger sets the angle of the blade independent of the top link. Regardless of what the top link is set to you can pull it fully out of the ground, so it does not set depth just angle. I also hooked this digger to a 1025R and the drive angles were less extreme. The 3038e pto sits a bit too high for it. Check out the following video to see it in action digging potatoes.
@@potatofarmer I own a Spedo potato digger. No doubt the one the Chinese copied. Draft control is not needed, in fact most small tractors don't have draft control, only position control. The top link is your depth control.
@@potatofarmer I raise and lower the digger from the seat just as I would any other three point hitch mounted implement. When I'm digging potatoes I lower the position control all the way down. The gauge wheels control the digger position. Adjusting the top link changes the relationship between the gauge wheels and the shovel depth. If the shovel is too deep then lengthening the top link raises the shovel. If the shovel is too shallow then shortening the top link lowers the shovel. What is constant is that the gauge wheels always ride on the ground. P.S. In your initial set-up I see that you can position your gauge wheels in different holes. I hypothesize that how those are positioned may effect the angle of attack of the shovel and is a one time set up, but the gauge wheels control depth. When you change the length of your 3-point top link, you are either pushing the gauge wheels down in relation to your shovel which decreases shovel depth, or raising gauge wheels up in relation to the shovel which increases shovel depth. P.S.S. I just watched your video of digging potatoes, it appears like you do it the same way that I do it. Maybe we are just misunderstanding each others terminology. In any event I can't argue with success.
Read the title again, then watch my next video. The machine was brand new so to make sure it was setup and ready to use. Went back through some carrot rows, then some beets. Once all of the angles, depth and speed had been “Setup” in this video. I was sure that it would actually dig without plugging, scalping at wrong depth and speed for soil type after this. The next video I dig out the potatoes.
Nice looking beets. Yum.
I would love to have one of those diggers.
I would be guessing that digger is meant for a subcompact or compact tractor. They would be lower to the ground, so the drive shaft angle would not be as bad.
Great video. Thanks.
Guess I'm not the only crazy Canuck that watches Yuriy Serbin LOL. I'm hoping to build my own single row potato digger this summer to use in the fall, be a cat 0 2000 RPM unit to work on one of my garden tractors vs a full size tractor. Cool video !!
To friendly it up for your PTO; Extend your 3p top link to straighten the PTO axle. Then extend your shaking yoke link to adjust the pan/table angle.
Mine has a slot for the top link pin. If it wasn't like that we wouldn't be able to shorten the top link enough. The other set ahha moment is when we realized that the rear shaker screen needs to be quite flat.
What did you give for the beasty ?
You adjust your depth by adjusting the top link on the three point hitch. Lengthen the top link to make it more shallow, shorten the top link to make it more deep.
Depth is set by the control arms and held by draft control in relation to the rear trailing wheels, the top link adjusts the angle of the entire digger, the linkage on the digger sets the angle of the blade independent of the top link.
Regardless of what the top link is set to you can pull it fully out of the ground, so it does not set depth just angle.
I also hooked this digger to a 1025R and the drive angles were less extreme. The 3038e pto sits a bit too high for it.
Check out the following video to see it in action digging potatoes.
@@potatofarmer I own a Spedo potato digger. No doubt the one the Chinese copied. Draft control is not needed, in fact most small tractors don't have draft control, only position control. The top link is your depth control.
@@FlatFifties so you cannot adjust your hitch height from the seat? How do you raise and lower your implement?
@@potatofarmer I raise and lower the digger from the seat just as I would any other three point hitch mounted implement. When I'm digging potatoes I lower the position control all the way down. The gauge wheels control the digger position. Adjusting the top link changes the relationship between the gauge wheels and the shovel depth. If the shovel is too deep then lengthening the top link raises the shovel. If the shovel is too shallow then shortening the top link lowers the shovel. What is constant is that the gauge wheels always ride on the ground.
P.S. In your initial set-up I see that you can position your gauge wheels in different holes. I hypothesize that how those are positioned may effect the angle of attack of the shovel and is a one time set up, but the gauge wheels control depth. When you change the length of your 3-point top link, you are either pushing the gauge wheels down in relation to your shovel which decreases shovel depth, or raising gauge wheels up in relation to the shovel which increases shovel depth.
P.S.S. I just watched your video of digging potatoes, it appears like you do it the same way that I do it. Maybe we are just misunderstanding each others terminology. In any event I can't argue with success.
@@FlatFifties If i setup as you describe pto angle is overly extreme, what tractor do you have?
Have you watched the next video yet?
the way we made 1950..... enjoy!
1950 Hills? Good haul, potatoes make the world go round.
Interesting but I don't see any potatoes come out of the machine in the chute ?
Read the title again, then watch my next video. The machine was brand new so to make sure it was setup and ready to use. Went back through some carrot rows, then some beets.
Once all of the angles, depth and speed had been “Setup” in this video. I was sure that it would actually dig without plugging, scalping at wrong depth and speed for soil type after this. The next video I dig out the potatoes.
Do you have a link to the one you bought??
www.tractorcompany.ca/product/AP90
From “The tractor company” Osler SK