I honestly think this channel has a mass appeal to it. I very firmly believe that there are millions of people who can detect the presence of all this deeper meaning in fashion, but can’t quite articulate it.
I remember watching this show earlier this year and feeling very mentally taxed. It was the same feeling as I had experienced after my first class covering 2nd order differential equations. I knew and felt that it was cool, but knew that I understand almost nothing and that my head needed a break. Thanks for breaking it down so well, I really enjoyed watching this and learning about Samuel's processes and can relate very well to many of the topics he covered here. Many people online say that he is false intellectual who tries to sound much more complicated than he is, but I see now that that's clearly not true. ACW ftw. Cheers bro bliss is fucking awesome rate this video 5 stars
Aakashdeep Mundi I find that often, people are not hating on a brand, they’re hating on followers of a brand. They don’t like “hypebeasts” so they take out that frustrations on brands that typically get supported by those people. It’s misplaced frustration and a pretty silly way of thinking about things imo. Or at least, it’s a way of thinking that will cause the haters to miss out on a lot 😂
I don't normally comment on videos but this is brilliant. It's complex and detailed, but still accessible. You explained everything in a really engaging way.
Oh my, I truly adore your analysis of Semiotics. It's incredible how you translate definitions into emotions, and I'm simply amazed by it. Not even mentioning your knowledge and curiosity about fashion, deep meanings and layers. Thank you, it's such a pleasant time listening to you and learning from you. Beautiful.
Hey Bliss, Thanks for showing that the world of fashion is more than just colors and fabrics but how all these physical materials have more symbolic meaning and demonstrate more abstract ideas. I never realized that clothes weren't just clothes but they could be analyzed as deeply as a Robert Frost poem. Thanks for that =)
Love these videos so much. You're really engaging and have interesting things to say and make art and fashion which are often so abstract and lucrative really accessible. Keep it up
SiLdenafil Hicks haha man, I have to FIGHT to get ahold of those shownotes. Probably 2 hours of research time per video is me frantically trying to track down the damn notes 😂
Yay, two videos this week, and thank you for them being longer!!!!!! You are a good teacher!!! I really enjoy these breakdowns, and while the clothes were really interesting without the story, I very much appreciate how much went into the show as a whole, and want to see more.
Thank you so much! For reasons, we had to push next weeks ep up to today. I always appreciate your support, Arline. You seem like someone who lives a very considered life :)
I found this runway analysis to be interesting. Especially when you mentioned how the models had beads of water on their faces. I might have missed you saying this, but to me that might have also referenced how most of the countries' populations (especially of the countries that are debating whether to let migrants in or not) are descendants of migrants as well. In fact, I saw this political cartoon (American) that was about the migrant period of Ellis island in the US and it had three politicians on a dock denying an incoming migrant. What I loved is how they were haughty and dressed expensively, for the time, but their shadows were migrants holding sticks with bagged belongings over their shoulders; the shadows were no different than the incoming migrant man's form. Last thing I like about this point is the song "Fences". It was made by a black composer...that's all I remember about its composition...but the lines say "The day the universe was born, mountains rose and stars were formed, from the woven cloth of time, and there were no Fences". And it ends saying we'll only have true freedom when fences are destroyed. But yeah, I love the way the migration crisis topic was incorporated into the show.
fascinating video, incredible runway. i found myself thinking a lot about themes of paranoia and protection subverted, especially taken thru the lens of workwear and the cutout sections; workwear, especially very practical workwear (altho, aside, there's also a suit in there!), is designed to protect you in various ways - thinking about chainsaw-proof trousers and stab vests - but this collection is all openness, cutaways, breaks in the protective silhouette. even the big plastic cocoons have huge holes in them and are surprisingly airy (another aside - one of them is fixed to a neckbrace - ties to the open heart surgery thing and the medical theming). if i pick up the global migrant crisis theme, it feels like its very much talking about security theatre and nationalism; the over-shoulder glance, the lurking figures of the global subaltern, the guard dog, the big MODERNIST text talking about a particular imperialist paranoia within global hegemonic capitalism. i'm thinking about how this show taps into national security apparatus and state oppression (guard dogs, cops, the lurking threat of the Other weaponised against us, the working definition of fascism as "imperialist tactics turned inwards") in a very late capitalist way, rather than leaning on eastern bloc symbolism and Scary Russia stuff. anyway, pardon my rambling. amazing show.
I’ve always been interested in the “meaning” behind things. My university degree is in literature, so I basically spent 4 years learning how to analyze for symbolism, cultural context, etc. Honestly, this kind of meaning tends to shine thru when one takes time to look. If you watch a runway show, then slowly browse the pics, then read some interviews, then rewatch the show, then wait a day, then slowly scroll thru the pics again: I promise you’ll start to notice similar stuff. The problem is that we all jut scroll thru a collection once then put it away. But there’s a whole ocean there waiting to be uncovered :)
Thanks for the analysis. It would be good to pick a few looks and talk more in depth about how proportions, cuts, color combinations were used to convey theme.
The delve into semiotics made me both smile and groan because I've been POURING over Barthes for my dissertation and boy oh boy does he get INTO it in The Fashion System (well he gets into it always but y'know)
Haha, yea he can get a little intense. I wish I had gotten to dive into his work when I took my literary theory class, but some have told me I dodged a bullet by not doing so :)
@@BlissFoster He's one of my favorites in pretty much anything--dense as fuck--but I have found very few people who contextualize the world in the same way he does, and it's an absolute treat every time.
Where do you actually find show notes for runway shows? When I search for them I usually just find paraphrased quotes in someone elses review of the show. Would appreciate a response - I like the content
Jonathan Hall show notes are often really difficult to find and there’s no consistent way to find them. Raf and Rick and Iris Van Herpen post theirs on their websites/UA-cam channels. Everyone else is kinda 🤷 If you want them, ask for them in the comments of brand’s IG posts 💫💫 If we can get more demand going, they’re more likely to make them available.
Love acw aesthetic but the brand is very boring. He even stated its hard for him to explain the meaning of his brand under 200 words means which it lacks clarity. How exactly do these deep details communicate the brand mission, message or values? And why should consumers care?
Wait why does it need to be explained in under 200 words? There’s a lot of stuff that’s worth talking about that can’t be explained in under 200 words 🤔 I don’t see how that lacks clarity
@@BlissFoster Glad you replied! Becuase the end goal is to sell a product. If your message or values aren’t simple, relevant, and easily repeatable then it lacks clarity. Your customers shouldn’t have to burn too many calories in an effort to understand your offer. We as humans are drawn toward clarity and away from confusion. The reality is you’re in a race to communicate why your customers need those products in their lives because that’s all they really care about. When you ramble about how your garments means this, or represents that, the customers doesn’t care. Why? Because that information isn’t helping them eat, drink, find a mate, fall in love, build a tribe, experience a deeper sense of meaning, etc, sounds cheeky but its how our primitive brain works… You could have best product in the marketplace, and lose to an inferior product if your competitor’s offer is communicated more clearly. ACW talks too much about the company’s random backstory or internal goals, & meaning. Not the contribution to the consumers lives and how the information is relevant . Im currently doing competitor analysis of streetwear brands because i soon will join the industry. And ACW messaging is just too difficult to understand and is incredibly boring to do research on, which is a problem. Just imagine how an average consumers feels. Im almost positive this is why the brand has been stagnant in the recent years. The products aren’t the problem…The problem is how they talk about the products.
I guess this is just a difference of values. If a brand isn’t offering a nuanced message, I honestly find that to be wasteful. No one needs a quick and easy message I’m their clothes bc the clearest message of all is found at Walmart. We don’t need any more jackets, there’s enough garments currently to clothe all of humanity for the next 70 years. The only unwasteful thing brands can offer now is a nuanced message; they can only offer art. And I find that Sam does that very well.
@@BlissFoster He doesn’t though… thats the problem. You can have a distinctive message with clarity… Nike? Givenchy? Chanel? Almost any well constructed brand identity has a clear message that is aligned with everything they do. ACW - A representation of British working class. Why are you selling high-end products? Who exactly is your target audience and shouldn’t your message align with them? A-Cold-Wall means what to your message? Open heart surgery jacket, nice. How does that represent your brand message? Lastly how does any of this make consumers want to buy from you? Oh wait…
A label (person) that wants to be known as a designer as well as an artist, fails miserably at both. (ala Off White) Rick considers himself as a designer after studying art Margiela was a designer even when making items people considered art Rei doesn't even regard herself as a true designer but closer to a business woman Helmut Lang quit being a designer to be an artist These are 2 different industries, although you can shift into the other industry, you can't produce 1 work and wish to be regarded in both. Also any designer/visual artist that need to explain and write so specifically about their work have failed to communicate and execute their work successfully. (People who appreciate clothes can think and know, so it is pandering, marketing jargon to the uninformed) From a jaded, old person, I love and appreciate your enthusiasm about clothes and labels.
Only the realest know about this Channel. It’s like the creative beverage for fashion fanatics
I honestly think this channel has a mass appeal to it. I very firmly believe that there are millions of people who can detect the presence of all this deeper meaning in fashion, but can’t quite articulate it.
more like a buffet at a restaurant that's on the 5th page of yelp and so good nobody recommends or rate it so it doesn't get overpopulated LMFAO
Really enjoyed the analysis, and I totally agree on the streetwear discussion, they aren’t remotely in the same universe
The gawd approves 😤😎 thanks so much, man!
You must have A-COLD-HEAD*
Glad to see more of these, I think some of Samuel Ross x Oakley is nice and it's affordably priced.
Yeah, he seems to be pretty smart about his collaboration work. And yes, my head is surprisingly cold 🥶
I remember watching this show earlier this year and feeling very mentally taxed. It was the same feeling as I had experienced after my first class covering 2nd order differential equations. I knew and felt that it was cool, but knew that I understand almost nothing and that my head needed a break.
Thanks for breaking it down so well, I really enjoyed watching this and learning about Samuel's processes and can relate very well to many of the topics he covered here. Many people online say that he is false intellectual who tries to sound much more complicated than he is, but I see now that that's clearly not true. ACW ftw. Cheers bro
bliss is fucking awesome
rate this video 5 stars
Aakashdeep Mundi I find that often, people are not hating on a brand, they’re hating on followers of a brand. They don’t like “hypebeasts” so they take out that frustrations on brands that typically get supported by those people. It’s misplaced frustration and a pretty silly way of thinking about things imo. Or at least, it’s a way of thinking that will cause the haters to miss out on a lot 😂
" I dont know exactly where we are going, but I am excited and I know it we can get there" is sooooo inspiring!!!
I don't normally comment on videos but this is brilliant. It's complex and detailed, but still accessible. You explained everything in a really engaging way.
Thanks so much! Have we met yet? Hmu on IG so I can say hi
Oh my, I truly adore your analysis of Semiotics. It's incredible how you translate definitions into emotions, and I'm simply amazed by it. Not even mentioning your knowledge and curiosity about fashion, deep meanings and layers. Thank you, it's such a pleasant time listening to you and learning from you. Beautiful.
My fave thus far. Very skilled linguistic analysis of the fashion in this runway show.
Taylor Holmes thanks bud!!
Hey Bliss,
Thanks for showing that the world of fashion is more than just colors and fabrics but how all these physical materials have more symbolic meaning and demonstrate more abstract ideas. I never realized that clothes weren't just clothes but they could be analyzed as deeply as a Robert Frost poem.
Thanks for that =)
Love these videos so much. You're really engaging and have interesting things to say and make art and fashion which are often so abstract and lucrative really accessible. Keep it up
MustBeWizardry thanks so much! Hit me up on IG and say hi!
You and your show notes... love you so MUCH!
SiLdenafil Hicks haha man, I have to FIGHT to get ahold of those shownotes. Probably 2 hours of research time per video is me frantically trying to track down the damn notes 😂
Yay, two videos this week, and thank you for them being longer!!!!!!
You are a good teacher!!!
I really enjoy these breakdowns, and while the clothes were really interesting without the story, I very much appreciate how much went into the show as a whole, and want to see more.
Thank you so much! For reasons, we had to push next weeks ep up to today.
I always appreciate your support, Arline. You seem like someone who lives a very considered life :)
@@BlissFoster Thank you. I do try to do so.
I love what you are doing and look forward to see how your channel develops.
Man this was brilliant, love getting my semiotics fix after completing my film degree :D
I found this runway analysis to be interesting. Especially when you mentioned how the models had beads of water on their faces. I might have missed you saying this, but to me that might have also referenced how most of the countries' populations (especially of the countries that are debating whether to let migrants in or not) are descendants of migrants as well. In fact, I saw this political cartoon (American) that was about the migrant period of Ellis island in the US and it had three politicians on a dock denying an incoming migrant. What I loved is how they were haughty and dressed expensively, for the time, but their shadows were migrants holding sticks with bagged belongings over their shoulders; the shadows were no different than the incoming migrant man's form. Last thing I like about this point is the song "Fences". It was made by a black composer...that's all I remember about its composition...but the lines say "The day the universe was born, mountains rose and stars were formed, from the woven cloth of time, and there were no Fences". And it ends saying we'll only have true freedom when fences are destroyed. But yeah, I love the way the migration crisis topic was incorporated into the show.
Gorgeous_Poreless I always love how thoughtful your comments are 😊 and yeah! Ross definitely found cool ways to work it in.
@@BlissFoster Thanks for the appreciation. I always wanna show I care and have watched the video :D
So much content here! You took the deepest dive, what most couldn't imagine to. Really this is a service to the fashion world.
Thank you, truly does mean a ton coming from you.
Thank you again! Excellent review!💪💪
great cosplay from trainspotting.
Tremendous analysis🖤
This is great! Much love from Denmark
Thank you so much! Thank you for all the good techno :)
fascinating video, incredible runway. i found myself thinking a lot about themes of paranoia and protection subverted, especially taken thru the lens of workwear and the cutout sections; workwear, especially very practical workwear (altho, aside, there's also a suit in there!), is designed to protect you in various ways - thinking about chainsaw-proof trousers and stab vests - but this collection is all openness, cutaways, breaks in the protective silhouette. even the big plastic cocoons have huge holes in them and are surprisingly airy (another aside - one of them is fixed to a neckbrace - ties to the open heart surgery thing and the medical theming).
if i pick up the global migrant crisis theme, it feels like its very much talking about security theatre and nationalism; the over-shoulder glance, the lurking figures of the global subaltern, the guard dog, the big MODERNIST text talking about a particular imperialist paranoia within global hegemonic capitalism. i'm thinking about how this show taps into national security apparatus and state oppression (guard dogs, cops, the lurking threat of the Other weaponised against us, the working definition of fascism as "imperialist tactics turned inwards") in a very late capitalist way, rather than leaning on eastern bloc symbolism and Scary Russia stuff.
anyway, pardon my rambling. amazing show.
Hadn't even thought of the Over-the-shoulder glance. Imperialist Paranoia is a good way to put it too.
Spot on.
Love this bliss, would you consider doing a martine rose show
What show do you like by them and why?
YESS PLS
Love the haircut, thank you for your service
Absolutely! I love this stuff :)
Ur so good
Thank you Blaine, you also are good
Keep it up Bliss, loving the disparity between all of the shows u look at
Thanks Sahil! We’ve got some more on deck that I’m especially excited about
@@BlissFoster o shit we got [redacted] coming thru. I'm excited
Where'd you here about Ross observing/documenting/sketching workers behaviours throughout a working day?
Amazing! I was going to ask you to review this show and opinion of Samuel Ross. SS20 installation is june 10.
Jeremy Lee I cant wait
Another informative video. Keep it up.
Thanks for the ongoing support, my man!
I would love to see you on show studio
I would also love to see me on Show Studio :)
Great video
Thanks so much!
I hate it when a cold wall gets categorized as another sTrEetWeAr brand
Love your analysis ⚡⚡
loved the vid, love your new cut! I wanna ask how did you learn to analyse and talk about shows and clothes like that?
I’ve always been interested in the “meaning” behind things. My university degree is in literature, so I basically spent 4 years learning how to analyze for symbolism, cultural context, etc.
Honestly, this kind of meaning tends to shine thru when one takes time to look. If you watch a runway show, then slowly browse the pics, then read some interviews, then rewatch the show, then wait a day, then slowly scroll thru the pics again: I promise you’ll start to notice similar stuff. The problem is that we all jut scroll thru a collection once then put it away. But there’s a whole ocean there waiting to be uncovered :)
Thanks for the analysis. It would be good to pick a few looks and talk more in depth about how proportions, cuts, color combinations were used to convey theme.
Great suggestion, I’m working to make this a reality.
@@BlissFoster thank you, I''ll keep and eye out for it.
The delve into semiotics made me both smile and groan because I've been POURING over Barthes for my dissertation and boy oh boy does he get INTO it in The Fashion System (well he gets into it always but y'know)
Good luck with that. Barthes helped me a ton in semiotics and deciphering the advertising prints for my dissertation!
Haha, yea he can get a little intense. I wish I had gotten to dive into his work when I took my literary theory class, but some have told me I dodged a bullet by not doing so :)
@@BlissFoster He's one of my favorites in pretty much anything--dense as fuck--but I have found very few people who contextualize the world in the same way he does, and it's an absolute treat every time.
fresh scalp for the summer✅
never seen this intro
Can you do a Carol Christian Poell ? doesnt have to be a specific season only the designer and his vision
Definitely planning on doing a CCP episode 💫💫
SS20 review soon?
and if u are not a native english speaker, "tree" can be understood as "three". a lot of people I know can't tell the difference
Where do you actually find show notes for runway shows? When I search for them I usually just find paraphrased quotes in someone elses review of the show. Would appreciate a response - I like the content
Jonathan Hall show notes are often really difficult to find and there’s no consistent way to find them. Raf and Rick and Iris Van Herpen post theirs on their websites/UA-cam channels. Everyone else is kinda 🤷 If you want them, ask for them in the comments of brand’s IG posts 💫💫 If we can get more demand going, they’re more likely to make them available.
Fuck yeah! Thank you
You’re fucking welcome ;)
Can we get a McQueen analysis video
Oooooooooooh yes :) I have some big plans for Lee
Do you have an idea why the models were all looking back on the middle of the runway ?
Love acw aesthetic but the brand is very boring. He even stated its hard for him to explain the meaning of his brand under 200 words means which it lacks clarity. How exactly do these deep details communicate the brand mission, message or values? And why should consumers care?
Wait why does it need to be explained in under 200 words? There’s a lot of stuff that’s worth talking about that can’t be explained in under 200 words 🤔 I don’t see how that lacks clarity
@@BlissFoster Glad you replied!
Becuase the end goal is to sell a product. If your message or values aren’t simple, relevant, and easily repeatable then it lacks clarity. Your customers shouldn’t have to burn too many calories in an effort to understand your offer. We as humans are drawn toward clarity and away from confusion. The reality is you’re in a race to communicate why your customers need those products in their lives because that’s all they really care about. When you ramble about how your garments means this, or represents that, the customers doesn’t care. Why? Because that information isn’t helping them eat, drink, find a mate, fall in love, build a tribe, experience a deeper sense of meaning, etc, sounds cheeky but its how our primitive brain works… You could have best product in the marketplace, and lose to an inferior product if your competitor’s offer is communicated more clearly. ACW talks too much about the company’s random backstory or internal goals, & meaning. Not the contribution to the consumers lives and how the information is relevant . Im currently doing competitor analysis of streetwear brands because i soon will join the industry. And ACW messaging is just too difficult to understand and is incredibly boring to do research on, which is a problem. Just imagine how an average consumers feels. Im almost positive this is why the brand has been stagnant in the recent years. The products aren’t the problem…The problem is how they talk about the products.
I guess this is just a difference of values. If a brand isn’t offering a nuanced message, I honestly find that to be wasteful. No one needs a quick and easy message I’m their clothes bc the clearest message of all is found at Walmart. We don’t need any more jackets, there’s enough garments currently to clothe all of humanity for the next 70 years. The only unwasteful thing brands can offer now is a nuanced message; they can only offer art.
And I find that Sam does that very well.
@@BlissFoster He doesn’t though… thats the problem. You can have a distinctive message with clarity… Nike? Givenchy? Chanel? Almost any well constructed brand identity has a clear message that is aligned with everything they do.
ACW - A representation of British working class. Why are you selling high-end products? Who exactly is your target audience and shouldn’t your message align with them? A-Cold-Wall means what to your message?
Open heart surgery jacket, nice. How does that represent your brand message? Lastly how does any of this make consumers want to buy from you? Oh wait…
wow you had a shaved head back then
A label (person) that wants to be known as a designer as well as an artist, fails miserably at both. (ala Off White)
Rick considers himself as a designer after studying art
Margiela was a designer even when making items people considered art
Rei doesn't even regard herself as a true designer but closer to a business woman
Helmut Lang quit being a designer to be an artist
These are 2 different industries, although you can shift into the other industry, you can't produce 1 work and wish to be regarded in both.
Also any designer/visual artist that need to explain and write so specifically about their work have failed to communicate and execute their work successfully. (People who appreciate clothes can think and know, so it is pandering, marketing jargon to the uninformed)
From a jaded, old person, I love and appreciate your enthusiasm about clothes and labels.
A lot of true statements here. Thank you so much for the kind words, Rawiri :)
Sadly the quality of the manafacturing, materials and even padding is sub-par, and IMHO not deserving of this analysis.
Cool review. But in my opinion samuel comes up with these weird and in depth concepts for his show because the actual clothes suck ass:(
What makes you say that?