Great series, I'm looking forward to your stencil cutter review/comparison. I would like to learn more about their capabilities and how one does the computer side of the design. Again, great job!
Anyone can build a Tamiya kit (except their Sea Harrier FRS.1). Airfix kits can be a culture shock for those use to Tamiya, so no wonder you got some criticism from those who know how to build Airfix kits. The Airfix Mustang has some very tight tolerances, so dry-fitting is a must and it will also show if those pesky ejector pin marks are visible once the cockpit is assembled ;)
Don’t feel bad about the stripes as in ww2 they were hand painted if you look at photos or close ups you can see brush strokes or imperfections like literal straws of hay stuck into the painted invasion stripes
Here is an idea for your next Video, "Clear Parts". I have problems with trying to clean up them up where the Sprue Tree molds to it after I cut them off, anther problem I have is when I get a kit, the Clear Parts are sometimes "Bent" putting "Stress" marks on the Part or "Torn Off' the Sprue altogether. "Thanks"!
Check out Sprue Bros. They sell the Eduard Mustangs as overtrees for about $23 US. They are the plastic only, with no instructions, decals or photo-etch. I find they're a great way to make use of the other marking options in the Profi-Pack or Royal Class kits.
great work but you need to avoid the orange peel effect paint to get a more realistic finish ! just saying ! if you use an anti static tac rag before painting it gets rid of all the dust in the paint work !
Its a mystery, I know lots of folks have complained about AK metal being fragile and rubbing off - it just didn't do that on the three or so kits I used it on, my in between spray sessions were quite lengthy so maybe its needs extended time to 'cure'. I handled my (now shelved) Lightning T.5 with bare hands, banged it around, taped over it... it didn't rub off...its weird. Great video by the way...
Beautiful finish but for some reason I liked most the airfix 's finish... It maybe a challenge but the effort was surely worth it. Keep up the good work!
Awesome builds hope you do more vids like this really enjoyed it my current model is a pain in the a** it’s the J-21R by special hobby’s there was no guide pins and the instruction were almost unread able and just fell apart I’m having a break from it as I’ve gotten onto the decals and they ether stick to the surface and makes it really difficult to move around or just slide right off the model and every single on has ripped so I’m having a break
I haven't seen many modelers put rust on an aluminium plane. Would rust form on such planes and, if so, from which parts? I would think hard locations like gear or control surface actuators, maybe even fasteners on the frame?
People who send hate mails or hate comments because they can't accept someone's else opinion or a fact that is clearly visible like the bad fit of this particular Airfix model, then they shouldn't be watching those videos. And you should care less, keep doing what you are doing a lot of good learning for many of us.
I'm quite a an experienced modeler and I still mess up my modelkits with dark washes... I really mess them up! Once I have to throw a a almost done kit :( Help Please
I see three generations of 'modern' Airfix kits (rough dates) - pre 2015: finally a step up from 60's 70's; 2015 - 2021: better engineered but still fit issues; post 2021: much better design and engineering (1/24 Spitfire/Sea King/Gannet) but getting a bit expensive considering there are still quality control issues. They have some of the best instructions and colour callouts in the market and the best decals. My current exemplar is Kotare.
Nice very nice Particularly the B( gotta love P-51 B/C & P-47 Razorback) the bubble variants meh (not your builds) Can I ask what brand(s) of flat clear and gloss clear are you using I'm looking for recommendations.
Great models of a fantastic air craft, you have a lot more patience and skills than I do I'm looking forward to your next one. Have you ever done a B24D In RAF Coastal Command colours (that's my next project)? Stay safe and keep well, best wishes to you and all your fans from NZ
I used a $20 laser level from the big box store to lay out straight lines on a curved surface for a Heater-Ferris camo Phantom. Worked pretty good. If you look at it from dead above the lines that go over the turtleback and down the sides of the engines is straight as a ruler. Same with a line that crosses the radome at an angle.
I still have issues with varnish through my airbrush. I often end up with frosting. I suspect that i either do not spray wet enough or it has something to do with my air pressure. because that is like the single thing i have issues with, using my airbrush.
What brand are you using and what are you cutting it with? When I first started I cut X-22 Gloss with IPA and it was frosting. Alclad needs to be stirred very well before use. Also, you should be very close while shooting and not too far away
I find that the Airfix is the superior kit on the following points: 1-Best depiction of the cowling fasteners, Meng second, Eduard distant third (Eduard has no depiction at all for the top nose centerline, which is really, really bad). 2-Airfix has the slightly better nose top shape, a little wider and more amenable to flattening the curvature 3-Airfix has the best gear legs, Meng second, Eduard distant third (too skinny). 4-Airfix has the best depiction of the machine gun openings, Meng second, Eduard truly dreadful (much too small) 5-Eduard has the best windscreen, Meng closely second, Airfix a distant third (depth of side panes way too shallow). 6-Building ease. Meng wins by some margin, Airfix second, Eduard is by far the most troublesome. For metal finishes it is Meng all the way.
Can I ask you a questions about metal painting? I know you painted several Xtreme metal by each panels, and did you apply clear coats(Tamiya X-22) every time between one metal color and another? We should masking panels for painting another metal color and man that AK Xtreme is fragile as you know.
Whaou ! Your work, if we can call this "work", is very inspiring. As I've got the Eduard "Tales of Iwojima", I'll try to apply your tips. I recently tested the AK black base and really loved the result provided it dries for at least 24 hours. Cheers.
Glad you persevered as the planes all turned out great. For your Cricut video will you be doing a full overview , ie from unpacking it to cutting masks?
Wartime invasion stripes were very messy , they stole lots of paint from local shops I wouldn't stress about invasion stripes, admitted straight lines are purty. The blue nose is my favorite out the bunch the blue really pops with that silver behind 👍
You can find images of some crews that took a lot of pride in it with very neat lines. And like you said, there are some images of them smashed on. A specific RCAF Spitfire comes to mind :)
Hey, I loved the whole series. Quick question. I’m trying to become a truck and coach technician. From your experience, do you think matco, mac, or snap-on is better? Or maybe even different, cheaper brands? I live in Canada too so I can’t get harbor freight unfortunately. Thanks, and keep making awesome videos!
I'm in Canada as well. I'm a Mac guy because I find Snap-On and Matco are quite over-priced. As for a tool box, before I started on the service truck I had a craftsman box I got for $800. Instead of dropping 5k on a box at 28% interest or whatever it is.
You’ve inspired me to do my own madness build. Breaking out the Tamiya D B and AM ‘a C for a trifecta. The B and C will be CBI theater and the D Iwo Jima long range escort.
This series is very good. I think that the only Airfix I have in my stash is the Sea Fury (but also got the aftermarket cowling, thank you for the heads up Brett Green…). Very interesting how these items hold up against each other.
But Tamiya has a new tooling from 2011 of the D version, right? That is the version that should be compared with the Eduard's D... Anyway, amazing videos!
@@TheModelGuy you are right indeed. Forgot about the tamiya D version in 48th. I only have the B and still from 1995. And accurate miniatures F-6 which is also nice.
Ilike the chalenge yopu have put down for yourself. I'm in the middle of a B17 Costal Command build converting a airfix B17MK 11 to Costal Command. I'm woundering what primer to use gray or white both Vallejo. Any advice would be greatful.
Love this series. I have a few things that get me despairing, but seams are the most frequent I think. All looks good then they're there. I think the question is, how do you do as good a job as possible without resorting to constant filling and sanding. It is mojo sapping on some kits. Thanks
I’ll usually put down some extra thin cement along the leading edge to melt the seam. If that doesn’t work, I’ll sand it with 400-800-3000 grit sanding sponge. There’s really no way around it sometimes. My Zeke I am building now has a ghost seam down the spine which is even worse to clean up
Funny you mention that. It's been on the shelf while I figure out how to get the turret in place after the fuselage halves are together. But it is in the queue. That will be an extended series since it is so friggin' huge. Plus I have a second one to convert to an RCN Turkey.
I think most of your frustration with paint finishes is to do with your preparation and airbrushing technique. The finished kits still look like painted plastic.Part of the fun recreating these air-frames is modifying them to omit the manufacturers errors. If you don't like the kits.. don't buy them.
Just a quick note regarding NMF-colored MILITARY model aircraft: NATURAL ALUMINUM FINISHES OXIDIZE VERY QUICKLY on 1:1-scale Aircraft, I.E, THE REAL THING... Pristine NMF was rarely seen in real-time combat situations; the ONLY time one ever saw PRISTINE NMF was when the Aircraft in question had JUST LEFT THE ASSEMBLY-LINE... Just a little something to bear in mind: CHECK YOUR REFERENCES...
My biggest concern isn't really the pristine NMF, it's to get an accurate one. I've recently used aqua gloss on an Eduard P-51 to protect the paint and keep the luster. Doesn't end up looking like silver paint.
![[UA] NAVI проти G2 Esports | Blast Premier Fall Final](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/QWlIm4FGESQ/mqdefault.jpg)
Great series, I'm looking forward to your stencil cutter review/comparison. I would like to learn more about their capabilities and how one does the computer side of the design. Again, great job!
finally I’ve been waiting for mustang madness part 3 for so long
What is a weekend build Kit.
It's an Eduard kit without the photoetch stuff or masks. Less marking options as well.
Patience. I'm the guy who lost his cool with the Eduard Hellcat's tail because of the stupid engineering.
Ive been waiting so long for this
For invasion stripes?
The Model Guy well for part 3 which is just the decals and weathering
Anyone can build a Tamiya kit (except their Sea Harrier FRS.1). Airfix kits can be a culture shock for those use to Tamiya, so no wonder you got some criticism from those who know how to build Airfix kits. The Airfix Mustang has some very tight tolerances, so dry-fitting is a must and it will also show if those pesky ejector pin marks are visible once the cockpit is assembled ;)
Don’t feel bad about the stripes as in ww2 they were hand painted if you look at photos or close ups you can see brush strokes or imperfections like literal straws of hay stuck into the painted invasion stripes
Here is an idea for your next Video, "Clear Parts".
I have problems with trying to clean up them up where the Sprue Tree molds to it after I cut them off, anther problem I have is when I get a kit, the Clear Parts are sometimes "Bent" putting "Stress" marks on the Part or "Torn Off' the Sprue altogether.
"Thanks"!
Check out Sprue Bros. They sell the Eduard Mustangs as overtrees for about $23 US. They are the plastic only, with no instructions, decals or photo-etch. I find they're a great way to make use of the other marking options in the Profi-Pack or Royal Class kits.
Did all the mustangs A through. D have the plywood floors?
That you are going to do a indepth comparison between the cricut and Silhouette made my day since im about to buy one of these!!
I like this channel u dont put crappy music in the back grond
Nice job on your Mustang's like to see you make me262 in 1.48 scale well done
great work but you need to avoid the orange peel effect paint to get a more realistic finish ! just saying ! if you use an anti static tac rag before painting it gets rid of all the dust in the paint work !
Its a mystery, I know lots of folks have complained about AK metal being fragile and rubbing off - it just didn't do that on the three or so kits I used it on, my in between spray sessions were quite lengthy so maybe its needs extended time to 'cure'. I handled my (now shelved) Lightning T.5 with bare hands, banged it around, taped over it... it didn't rub off...its weird. Great video by the way...
With Airfix quality has always been a problem. You were not being mean.
Beautiful finish but for some reason I liked most the airfix 's finish... It maybe a challenge but the effort was surely worth it. Keep up the good work!
I don't know if this is a good place for kit suggestions but could you build an A-26 Invader, preferably the one made by Revell monogram.
I'm always open to suggestions. I know ICM just released an A-26 that looks beautiful.
Awesome builds hope you do more vids like this really enjoyed it my current model is a pain in the a** it’s the J-21R by special hobby’s there was no guide pins and the instruction were almost unread able and just fell apart I’m having a break from it as I’ve gotten onto the decals and they ether stick to the surface and makes it really difficult to move around or just slide right off the model and every single on has ripped so I’m having a break
I haven't seen many modelers put rust on an aluminium plane. Would rust form on such planes and, if so, from which parts? I would think hard locations like gear or control surface actuators, maybe even fasteners on the frame?
I came back in and tried to clean as much off as possible. Aluminum doesn’t rust but it does get weird discolouration
People who send hate mails or hate comments because they can't accept someone's else opinion or a fact that is clearly visible like the bad fit of this particular Airfix model, then they shouldn't be watching those videos. And you should care less, keep doing what you are doing a lot of good learning for many of us.
I'm quite a an experienced modeler and I still mess up my modelkits with dark washes...
I really mess them up! Once I have to throw a a almost done kit :(
Help Please
I see three generations of 'modern' Airfix kits (rough dates) - pre 2015: finally a step up from 60's 70's; 2015 - 2021: better engineered but still fit issues; post 2021: much better design and engineering (1/24 Spitfire/Sea King/Gannet) but getting a bit expensive considering there are still quality control issues. They have some of the best instructions and colour callouts in the market and the best decals. My current exemplar is Kotare.
I think the blue nose B mustang was your best job, thanks for the review!!
Nice very nice Particularly the B( gotta love P-51 B/C & P-47 Razorback) the bubble variants meh (not your builds) Can I ask what brand(s) of flat clear and gloss clear are you using I'm looking for recommendations.
Tamia X-22 and X-85
@@TheModelGuy Awesome Thanks for that.
Great models of a fantastic air craft, you have a lot more patience and skills than I do I'm looking forward to your next one. Have you ever done a B24D In RAF Coastal Command colours (that's my next project)?
Stay safe and keep well, best wishes to you and all your fans from NZ
😷👍🇳🇿
I have been having alot of issues masking straight lines on a curved model...like the forward stripe of the USCG HH-60
I used a $20 laser level from the big box store to lay out straight lines on a curved surface for a Heater-Ferris camo Phantom. Worked pretty good. If you look at it from dead above the lines that go over the turtleback and down the sides of the engines is straight as a ruler. Same with a line that crosses the radome at an angle.
Awesome builds. Been waiting for the 3rd instalment. I really need to start getting brave with my weathering!!
I still have issues with varnish through my airbrush. I often end up with frosting. I suspect that i either do not spray wet enough or it has something to do with my air pressure. because that is like the single thing i have issues with, using my airbrush.
Dont spray when its below 15°, or when raining ,!
What brand are you using and what are you cutting it with? When I first started I cut X-22 Gloss with IPA and it was frosting. Alclad needs to be stirred very well before use. Also, you should be very close while shooting and not too far away
@@TheModelGuy I'm using Vallejo Varnish with Vallejo Airbrush Thinner. I stepped away from non acrylics because of my current living situation.
I find that the Airfix is the superior kit on the following points: 1-Best depiction of the cowling fasteners, Meng second, Eduard distant third (Eduard has no depiction at all for the top nose centerline, which is really, really bad). 2-Airfix has the slightly better nose top shape, a little wider and more amenable to flattening the curvature 3-Airfix has the best gear legs, Meng second, Eduard distant third (too skinny). 4-Airfix has the best depiction of the machine gun openings, Meng second, Eduard truly dreadful (much too small) 5-Eduard has the best windscreen, Meng closely second, Airfix a distant third (depth of side panes way too shallow). 6-Building ease. Meng wins by some margin, Airfix second, Eduard is by far the most troublesome. For metal finishes it is Meng all the way.
Great series of videos. Thank you
Three Mustangs at the one time....all praise to you for attempting the feat and delivering three beaut models. Congrats.....and thanks for the tips!!
You may have to revisit the Mustang saga very soon with the Meng kit and soon to be released Eduard P-51B kit.
Thanks for the info just looked on the net and pick up a weekend build spitfire. Thanks again.
Can I ask you a questions about metal painting?
I know you painted several Xtreme metal by each panels, and did you apply clear coats(Tamiya X-22) every time between one metal color and another? We should masking panels for painting another metal color and man that AK Xtreme is fragile as you know.
Fiddly bits still giving my hands and eyes the fits. Getting better and more comfortable with PE. Really enjoy these educational videos you make.
It's great works. I think you work very politely. And I' m looking forward to watch the next.
5 minutes
Awesome work!
I loved Model Master Metal paints... I think they look better than what you are doing.
at 0:58 this video was very close to being called mustang sadness
Whaou ! Your work, if we can call this "work", is very inspiring. As I've got the Eduard "Tales of Iwojima", I'll try to apply your tips. I recently tested the AK black base and really loved the result provided it dries for at least 24 hours. Cheers.
I really enjoy hearing that it has inspired others
Glad you persevered as the planes all turned out great. For your Cricut video will you be doing a full overview , ie from unpacking it to cutting masks?
It's going to be more how we can use it for this hobby. It will basically be a quick review of the software and how each does on a specific job.
Absolute stunners! Real great job on them!
Wartime invasion stripes were very messy , they stole lots of paint from local shops I wouldn't stress about invasion stripes, admitted straight lines are purty. The blue nose is my favorite out the bunch the blue really pops with that silver behind 👍
You can find images of some crews that took a lot of pride in it with very neat lines. And like you said, there are some images of them smashed on. A specific RCAF Spitfire comes to mind :)
Hello my fellow glue sniffers
Hey, I loved the whole series. Quick question. I’m trying to become a truck and coach technician. From your experience, do you think matco, mac, or snap-on is better? Or maybe even different, cheaper brands? I live in Canada too so I can’t get harbor freight unfortunately. Thanks, and keep making awesome videos!
I'm in Canada as well. I'm a Mac guy because I find Snap-On and Matco are quite over-priced. As for a tool box, before I started on the service truck I had a craftsman box I got for $800. Instead of dropping 5k on a box at 28% interest or whatever it is.
Thanks! I’ll try to avoid a husky box as well😂😂
Way cool! Looks amazing.
You’ve inspired me to do my own madness build. Breaking out the Tamiya D B and AM ‘a C for a trifecta. The B and C will be CBI theater and the D Iwo Jima long range escort.
B17 madness next?!?!?!?!?
This series is very good. I think that the only Airfix I have in my stash is the Sea Fury (but also got the aftermarket cowling, thank you for the heads up Brett Green…). Very interesting how these items hold up against each other.
Are you moving on to the corsair now? Or are you going to finish the zero?
The Zero is on the bench.
Brilliant tutorial
Looking forward to your thoughts on the Silhouette Cameo. It'd be great to see your workflow and the machine in action. cheers
But Tamiya has a new tooling from 2011 of the D version, right? That is the version that should be compared with the Eduard's D... Anyway, amazing videos!
These are all 1/48. Tamiya’s sprues say 1994 on them.
@@TheModelGuy you are right indeed. Forgot about the tamiya D version in 48th. I only have the B and still from 1995. And accurate miniatures F-6 which is also nice.
Ilike the chalenge yopu have put down for yourself. I'm in the middle of a B17 Costal Command build converting a airfix B17MK 11 to Costal Command. I'm woundering what primer to use gray or white both Vallejo. Any advice would be greatful.
I’d go with white primer since the overall colours are light
@@TheModelGuy Thanks for your help. Chris
very nice!
Love this series.
I have a few things that get me despairing, but seams are the most frequent I think. All looks good then they're there. I think the question is, how do you do as good a job as possible without resorting to constant filling and sanding. It is mojo sapping on some kits. Thanks
I’ll usually put down some extra thin cement along the leading edge to melt the seam. If that doesn’t work, I’ll sand it with 400-800-3000 grit sanding sponge. There’s really no way around it sometimes. My Zeke I am building now has a ghost seam down the spine which is even worse to clean up
Excellent work!
Beautiful
So what happened to the tbf
avenger kit
Funny you mention that. It's been on the shelf while I figure out how to get the turret in place after the fuselage halves are together. But it is in the queue. That will be an extended series since it is so friggin' huge. Plus I have a second one to convert to an RCN Turkey.
I think most of your frustration with paint finishes is to do with your preparation and airbrushing technique. The finished kits still look like painted plastic.Part of the fun recreating these air-frames is modifying them to omit the manufacturers errors. If you don't like the kits.. don't buy them.
Just a quick note regarding NMF-colored MILITARY model aircraft: NATURAL ALUMINUM FINISHES OXIDIZE VERY QUICKLY on 1:1-scale Aircraft, I.E, THE REAL THING... Pristine NMF was rarely seen in real-time combat situations; the ONLY time one ever saw PRISTINE NMF was when the Aircraft in question had JUST LEFT THE ASSEMBLY-LINE...
Just a little something to bear in mind: CHECK YOUR REFERENCES...
My biggest concern isn't really the pristine NMF, it's to get an accurate one. I've recently used aqua gloss on an Eduard P-51 to protect the paint and keep the luster. Doesn't end up looking like silver paint.