LEATHER GRADING Part-2 ( Selection) - FDDI , Cutting

The amount of additional work will vary from leather to leather and from tannery to tannery.
1. Substance-: The leather being a natural product varies from hide to hide and also over the hide. Tannery can split the leather to any required substance a normal tolerance of 0.2mm is acceptable.
2. Check-: The leather received price should be checked against the original price quoted, if there is a variation it should be resolved before any grading is commenced.
3. Color and finish-: Color and finish of leather is checked by visual inspection, the grader should cross-check his color sample with the leather received.
The color variation between orders or batch numbers should be of minimum amount.
4. Feel and stretch-: The feel and stretch of the leather will be predetermined. This will depend on the type of leather required, a softy leather would have more stretch and softer feel than a heavy printed boot leather.
5. Tensile and brust strength-: The tensile strength determines the lasting ability of the leather. The brust strength of leather relates to the leather with standing bursting at the toe, seams, lacing holes etc.
6. Color fastness-: The surface of the leather should be able to maintain its color without fading.
7. Color transfer or bleeding-: In fully dyed through leather in heavy or dark colors the leather colors can transfer to the socks in wear.
8. Grain break-: Good leather will have a fine break. To access the break in the leather cup one hand and place at the back of the leather, then push the surface into cup of the hand. Good leather will have fine wrinkle or a fine break.