tip: you could use a hot air blower to preheat the board and also after aplying the epoxy you could heat it up a bit. it makes the epoxi more liquid and makes it go deep into the core
SO MANY HATERS!!!! What do people expect for $10!!! Got you 4 extra years of fun so fair play man, I don't have the money for professional fixes so I think this is a great idea. If it works... It works! Ski/ Snowboard snobs are so precious but want to act and look like they don't give a crap!
How about, melting the ptex, pulling it out putting epoxy in the hole, then replace the piece of ptex you melted in earlier... This guy was way to high when he thought of this.
+TeDubbs, excellent idea about ptex handicap to stick on equipment core... people complains here about workmanship but this is genious idea to cheap fix instead of expensive replacement...
Only tips, when sharpening, don't just work on one area... go the length of the board until the nick is gone so the edge is even, same with sanding the base. Also I hope you removed most of that wax. After waxing you should basically scrape most of it off... too much wax will actually slow you down
Good fix, if you keep scraping the ptex you didnt shave then it eventually will be smooth and won't be bumpy takes a little over 10-15 passes. I wish i could use clamps on my skis but I have unremovable bindings. So clamping (it is necessary) is very hard.
@@TeDubbs tysm for answering so fast despite the age of this video haha. I found the product in stores here in Norway. How do I determine what core it has? Perhaps it is fiberglass as it has the same colour, but not sure
@@rubenjoys if you have the model of the board, it shouldn't be too hard to find the material used just by looking up the specs online. Fiberglass has a certain look to it if you've seen it before, it looks like exactly that; a bunch of fibers bound together and you can sort of dig them apart with a knife. It also shimmers a bit in the light.
You literally blowtorched the base 😂. I like the fix its just that you made a few mistakes with the p Tex imo. You don't blowtorch the base because it will close the pores of the p Tex and then it won't absorb wax feet good. Also with waxing you didn't take off the bindings which will give you problems, because the base is being pulled up by the inserts. The base will be heated up by the iron and eventually train itself to stay that way so the base will have indents. Well everybody waxes different it seems but either way I'm going to use this in the future on my "client's" boards
Oh well..........more than one way to skin the cat I guess! Welded base repair with a bit of metal grip first and then finish with wire or ribbon and I could have been done with that a day sooner. OMG, you took a torch to that "B"! Oh well......it's more than likely a crappy extruded base anyway! Oh no! A clothes iron! You are funny! Be good brother!
in the description of the epoxy you're using (loctite epoxy plastic), you can read that it doesn't bond to polyethylene surfaces. A snowboard base is sintered polyethylene...
The base is yes, but if you have a core shot you've gone past the base layer and into the (in this case) fiberglass underneath, which the epoxy should bond to. Correct me if I'm wrong, because I don't know for sure. Either way, I've been running this fix for 3 seasons and it hasn't popped out yet so it cant be that bad haha
TeDubbs Ok, you're only adhering it to the fiberglass. I'm gonna try this fix too, I hope it works out as good as yours. I currently fixed my core shot only with ptex and it cracks all te time. Does your top layer of Ptex crack?
anton claeys It cracks a tiny bit especially around the edges, but never enough to pop out. Its not pretty and it won't be perfectly smooth but it works
It's called an iron. They sell irons specifically for waxing skis and snowboards, but I'm using an old one that I had. Whatever you do, don't use the one that you use for clothes, it will ruin it most likely if it gets in the steam holes.
+Ravin Nanpatee I didn't remove any residual wax since the epoxy adheres to the fiberglass under the base, which has never had wax on it. And yes, it was just an old iron haha!
There are so many things wrong with this video I do not know where to start. Just take your board or skies to a shop and get it done right.... Rusty old fart of a pro shop tech.
So many people have commented essentially the same thing you have, that the fix sucks. I bought that board for 80 bucks. The bindings were $30. If I had gone and gotten it done "the right way", it would have cost more than the whole setup. Instead, I paid $10 and got 4 years and a ton of fun out of that board, and NEVER once had a problem with this fix. I'm so sorry that I offended you and everyone else with my fix Mr. Joe Pro, but this is perfect for the average guy without a ton of money to drop on a base weld. If you've got the money to burn, then by all means go and get it fixed "the right way." I'll still be having more fun than you.
tip: you could use a hot air blower to preheat the board and also after aplying the epoxy you could heat it up a bit. it makes the epoxi more liquid and makes it go deep into the core
I used this method on a bunch of core shots 2 seasons ago - still holding up after about 30 days on the mountain
awesome work! Great idea with the epoxy. I will try to use epoxy as a base to get the p-tex to stick to my edge core shot.
This is genius, it'll definitely save me some money. Thanks!
SO MANY HATERS!!!! What do people expect for $10!!! Got you 4 extra years of fun so fair play man, I don't have the money for professional fixes so I think this is a great idea. If it works... It works! Ski/ Snowboard snobs are so precious but want to act and look like they don't give a crap!
How about, melting the ptex, pulling it out putting epoxy in the hole, then replace the piece of ptex you melted in earlier... This guy was way to high when he thought of this.
I have to admit, that is a very good idea. Didn't even cross my mind.
+TeDubbs, excellent idea about ptex handicap to stick on equipment core... people complains here about workmanship but this is genious idea to cheap fix instead of expensive replacement...
Only tips, when sharpening, don't just work on one area... go the length of the board until the nick is gone so the edge is even, same with sanding the base. Also I hope you removed most of that wax. After waxing you should basically scrape most of it off... too much wax will actually slow you down
Good fix, if you keep scraping the ptex you didnt shave then it eventually will be smooth and won't be bumpy takes a little over 10-15 passes. I wish i could use clamps on my skis but I have unremovable bindings. So clamping (it is necessary) is very hard.
Nice quick fix I may have to try this myself, bonus points for the iron at the end haha good shit bro!
A plastic welder, metal grip and p-tex rod is the best way to do this. Once you use a plastic rod you will stop using the candles
This is a good idea.. i have always issues next to the edge ... but can work.. thanx!
What is the name of that epoxy product?
It's Loctite Plastic Epoxy. Keep in mind that I used this because I have a fiberglass core. Your mileage may vary if you have a different core types.
@@TeDubbs tysm for answering so fast despite the age of this video haha. I found the product in stores here in Norway. How do I determine what core it has? Perhaps it is fiberglass as it has the same colour, but not sure
@@rubenjoys if you have the model of the board, it shouldn't be too hard to find the material used just by looking up the specs online.
Fiberglass has a certain look to it if you've seen it before, it looks like exactly that; a bunch of fibers bound together and you can sort of dig them apart with a knife. It also shimmers a bit in the light.
You literally blowtorched the base 😂. I like the fix its just that you made a few mistakes with the p Tex imo. You don't blowtorch the base because it will close the pores of the p Tex and then it won't absorb wax feet good. Also with waxing you didn't take off the bindings which will give you problems, because the base is being pulled up by the inserts. The base will be heated up by the iron and eventually train itself to stay that way so the base will have indents. Well everybody waxes different it seems but either way I'm going to use this in the future on my "client's" boards
Oh well..........more than one way to skin the cat I guess! Welded base repair with a bit of metal grip first and then finish with wire or ribbon and I could have been done with that a day sooner. OMG, you took a torch to that "B"! Oh well......it's more than likely a crappy extruded base anyway! Oh no! A clothes iron! You are funny! Be good brother!
Use metal grip stick. It is like ptex stick but made of epoxy. You use it like ptex with a lighter or torch.
in the description of the epoxy you're using (loctite epoxy plastic), you can read that it doesn't bond to polyethylene surfaces. A snowboard base is sintered polyethylene...
The base is yes, but if you have a core shot you've gone past the base layer and into the (in this case) fiberglass underneath, which the epoxy should bond to. Correct me if I'm wrong, because I don't know for sure. Either way, I've been running this fix for 3 seasons and it hasn't popped out yet so it cant be that bad haha
TeDubbs Ok, you're only adhering it to the fiberglass. I'm gonna try this fix too, I hope it works out as good as yours. I currently fixed my core shot only with ptex and it cracks all te time. Does your top layer of Ptex crack?
anton claeys It cracks a tiny bit especially around the edges, but never enough to pop out. Its not pretty and it won't be perfectly smooth but it works
How do you wax your board wat is it called thething that heats it up and can you do i wit a regular that thing whtever it is
It's called an iron. They sell irons specifically for waxing skis and snowboards, but I'm using an old one that I had. Whatever you do, don't use the one that you use for clothes, it will ruin it most likely if it gets in the steam holes.
@@TeDubbs thanks👍
Why didn't you just melt the ptex
+Paul Kanarios I don't think melting into liquid epoxy would work very well if at all. There wouldn't be any way to clamp it either.
shoulda melted that shit together.. would last a lifetime..
good idea mixing p tex chip whit epoxy i will try at the shop
Holy shit you made a video
This is so ghetto!! like it!
Ghetto af
Did you remove the wax before doing the repair? Also was that just an old iron when you waxed?
+Ravin Nanpatee I didn't remove any residual wax since the epoxy adheres to the fiberglass under the base, which has never had wax on it. And yes, it was just an old iron haha!
good one! Thanks for this video
**sniff glue smells real good
Good shit bro
Would have scored old epoxy for better bond* does actually matter😂
damn you really got roasted by some of these people 👀
in your background is a men .. a men with a bong :3 i hope.. i hope the fucking good guy have smoking one more for me :3 :D
Good video
worst fix i ever seen.
+Ben Shochat Well it can't be that bad considering it STILL has not come out. Its been 4 years.
Holy shit soooo bad
Worst spelling i've ever seen!
Haha!! What are you doing?!! Bring it to me, I’ll fix it for you, dummy.
There are so many things wrong with this video I do not know where to start. Just take your board or skies to a shop and get it done right.... Rusty old fart of a pro shop tech.
So many people have commented essentially the same thing you have, that the fix sucks. I bought that board for 80 bucks. The bindings were $30. If I had gone and gotten it done "the right way", it would have cost more than the whole setup. Instead, I paid $10 and got 4 years and a ton of fun out of that board, and NEVER once had a problem with this fix. I'm so sorry that I offended you and everyone else with my fix Mr. Joe Pro, but this is perfect for the average guy without a ton of money to drop on a base weld. If you've got the money to burn, then by all means go and get it fixed "the right way." I'll still be having more fun than you.
TeDubbs yeah honestly what I don't understand is poor like this say that it's dumb but they don't even say why or give any points
+Crux it costs 15 bucks to do this correctly at the ski shop
@@emerygigantelli7904where? Maybe 7.... 70 years ago
worst fix ever.
Held up for 4 years. I don't know what more you would want for 10 bucks.