Holy Cow Batman! James that is beautiful work. I've had my R2 for years and always wanted to do 2-3-2. Watching how your Droid goes together, it reminds me of the small car models I use to build. They were called Snap-Together.
Thank you for filming this series Mr. Bruton! I've been a fan for a long time but watching an Astromech droid come together is the highlight of my internet week!
Wow...You really brought your A-game here. Amazing work with the central foot mechanism, you pulled that off beautifully. I'm afraid it will be a bit noisy and a bit slow when in motion, but hell, one can't have it both ways. Great job!
I am loving this series and watching your progress. I think it would be cool at the end of the videos to maybe give a stats update to show what the current weight of the droid is. I know how ones traditionally made from wood or aluminium can get quite heavy very quickly once you start adding components.
One observation about the center foot is that you only need the high-torque to move it through the parts of its motion where it's in contact with the ground. When it's not in contact with the ground, you could potentially use a faster, lower-torque means of moving it (or even disengage it from the motors and drop it for a bit when it's extending) It's relatively hard to disengage from the lead screw - one way you could do that is have the top portion (half?) of the lead screw be non-threaded, so the nut can slide freely there, and use a faster, lower-torque motor-and-belt system to move the foot through that part of its motion - and then when it reaches the bottom, the lead screw engages and the belt motor could be turned off or driven slower to allow the lead screw to take over the motion... ...Of course you're using relatively inexpensive studding as your lead screw, so getting one with a non-threaded region may not be an option... And you'd need the added weight of the second drive system... I suppose you could also look into using a motor that actually has a variable gearbox on it, and use faster gear ratios to drive the lead screw through the region where it doesn't make contact...
i'm assuming you have a reason for making the center foot drop so slowly? seems like an easy fix to find a threaded rod/nut with lower pitch to make it drop/rise faster. great work as always, clever to run current through the bolts at the shoulders to power them, i wouldn't have thought of that.
coming along very nicely. Ive noticed a lot of comments concerned about the noise, any chance you can add grease or something to some of the parts like the rails the rubber rollers run on to dampen the noise and also reduce wear.
hey james, have you thought about putting a ball in the third leg, instead of a wheel? that way the ball could move freely and you can brake by putting pressure on it
I wasn't keen on this project as i thoroughly enjoy your other 2, but i must say you impressed me...... until i heard the central motors, damn those things are loud! thats my only negative :/
I was talking to some of the local astromec builders and they all said most people use a piston for the 3:2 conversion. This is interesting thought. I'd love to see how well it works.
Nicely done. I'm a bit concerned about the parallelogram in the legs though. When in 2 legs mode, the parallelogram is basically a rectangle with top and bottom edges horizontal. But in 3 leg mode, R2 is inclined back at roughly 18° (36°/2) and so is the top edge of the "parallelogram". You don't have a parallelogram anymore (bottom edge is still horizontal, so at 18° of the top edge). Am I missing something?
Won't that threaded rod be a little bit in the way of the third foot itself? It seems like it will need a recess so they don't collide. Either way it is coming along very nicely.
Hi James I build an R2-D2 base on your 3D Printed R2-D2 R6 Droid but I can't find the motor you use for the shoulders. Did you have a link or a # of the model of this motor please ?
What is the essential plan to make break on the center foot? I thought that one has just free wheel on turntable (like shopping cart) or something like that so I can't really imagine an easy way to use such a wheel to break. Also I'd be afraid of different performace on different surfaces. I also wonder about this play in the outside shoulder hubs. Considering the amount of force and load these will have to take, don't you fear of this getting worse and worse?
When designing interlocking parts, what (if any) tolerances are you using when you design the parts in cad? Or are you just sanding down to create extra tolerance as needed?
Very cool. Central foot motor is pretty loud, will that be quieter with the body panels on do you think? Also wondering why you 3d print everything, those rails the central foot runs on could have been cut from sheet perspex or similar no? Wouldn't that be cheaper and quicker? Really enjoyed watching this update :)
This is so amazing, you're a genius my friend! :) One Q tho.... where do you source your pulleys from? Do you have any links to the two you have here? :)
Holy Cow Batman!
James that is beautiful work.
I've had my R2 for years and always wanted to do 2-3-2.
Watching how your Droid goes together, it reminds me of the small car models I use to build.
They were called Snap-Together.
Thank you for filming this series Mr. Bruton! I've been a fan for a long time but watching an Astromech droid come together is the highlight of my internet week!
Wow...You really brought your A-game here.
Amazing work with the central foot mechanism, you pulled that off beautifully.
I'm afraid it will be a bit noisy and a bit slow when in motion, but hell, one can't have it both ways.
Great job!
While building my Hulkbuster costume, I felt inspired to 3D print an R2-D2.
Said James Bruton...
Nice work man !!! Thanks for sharing...
I am loving this series and watching your progress. I think it would be cool at the end of the videos to maybe give a stats update to show what the current weight of the droid is. I know how ones traditionally made from wood or aluminium can get quite heavy very quickly once you start adding components.
Just so that you know I'm clicking the like button on all of your videos I watch cause you deserve it
One observation about the center foot is that you only need the high-torque to move it through the parts of its motion where it's in contact with the ground. When it's not in contact with the ground, you could potentially use a faster, lower-torque means of moving it (or even disengage it from the motors and drop it for a bit when it's extending)
It's relatively hard to disengage from the lead screw - one way you could do that is have the top portion (half?) of the lead screw be non-threaded, so the nut can slide freely there, and use a faster, lower-torque motor-and-belt system to move the foot through that part of its motion - and then when it reaches the bottom, the lead screw engages and the belt motor could be turned off or driven slower to allow the lead screw to take over the motion...
...Of course you're using relatively inexpensive studding as your lead screw, so getting one with a non-threaded region may not be an option... And you'd need the added weight of the second drive system...
I suppose you could also look into using a motor that actually has a variable gearbox on it, and use faster gear ratios to drive the lead screw through the region where it doesn't make contact...
good work.. should put an idler pulley on the belt to keep it tight on the small gear
Yes! More builds. Love it!!!!
Very amazing work
i'm assuming you have a reason for making the center foot drop so slowly? seems like an easy fix to find a threaded rod/nut with lower pitch to make it drop/rise faster. great work as always, clever to run current through the bolts at the shoulders to power them, i wouldn't have thought of that.
coming along very nicely. Ive noticed a lot of comments concerned about the noise, any chance you can add grease or something to some of the parts like the rails the rubber rollers run on to dampen the noise and also reduce wear.
Sweet, I have been refreshing my feed waiting for this. =D
Couldn't wait for this video!
hey james,
have you thought about putting a ball in the third leg, instead of a wheel? that way the ball could move freely and you can brake by putting pressure on it
I wasn't keen on this project as i thoroughly enjoy your other 2, but i must say you impressed me...... until i heard the central motors, damn those things are loud! thats my only negative :/
Great job, It would look awesome if you can put multi-colored LED lights inside
I was talking to some of the local astromec builders and they all said most people use a piston for the 3:2 conversion. This is interesting thought. I'd love to see how well it works.
Sorry I must have missed the part you said that in...
Love what you doing
Nicely done. I'm a bit concerned about the parallelogram in the legs though. When in 2 legs mode, the parallelogram is basically a rectangle with top and bottom edges horizontal. But in 3 leg mode, R2 is inclined back at roughly 18° (36°/2) and so is the top edge of the "parallelogram". You don't have a parallelogram anymore (bottom edge is still horizontal, so at 18° of the top edge). Am I missing something?
Won't that threaded rod be a little bit in the way of the third foot itself? It seems like it will need a recess so they don't collide. Either way it is coming along very nicely.
Super cool update! :)
Hi James I build an R2-D2 base on your 3D Printed R2-D2 R6 Droid but I can't find the motor you use for the shoulders. Did you have a link or a # of the model of this motor please ?
amazing i just ordered a 3d printer have no idea about it
What is the essential plan to make break on the center foot? I thought that one has just free wheel on turntable (like shopping cart) or something like that so I can't really imagine an easy way to use such a wheel to break. Also I'd be afraid of different performace on different surfaces.
I also wonder about this play in the outside shoulder hubs. Considering the amount of force and load these will have to take, don't you fear of this getting worse and worse?
***** SPOILERS. lol
i really hope you're gonna soundproof that xP
When designing interlocking parts, what (if any) tolerances are you using when you design the parts in cad? Or are you just sanding down to create extra tolerance as needed?
James, building my R6 can't seem to find the motor setup for the center leg, What RPM is that motor. maybe a link to it. thanks as always.
Very cool. Central foot motor is pretty loud, will that be quieter with the body panels on do you think?
Also wondering why you 3d print everything, those rails the central foot runs on could have been cut from sheet perspex or similar no? Wouldn't that be cheaper and quicker?
Really enjoyed watching this update :)
***** ah OK. Your engineering skills are impressive, shame to leave him naked though :)
Maybur make removable panels? Would be awesome to see him complete!
Well done James! and where did you get that little R2 model from? its a nice size.
This is so amazing, you're a genius my friend! :) One Q tho.... where do you source your pulleys from? Do you have any links to the two you have here? :)
I suggest getting an 11.1 Lipo, or 10.4 Nimh, as NICAD is inferior to both of them
Awesome! you will defiantly notice the superior quality
Why dont use stepper motors ?
Would rather use lipo batteries, tjey are more relyebel. Just a tip
you should make a exo suit from cod advanced warfare
why did you remove the 3d files from your site?
you talk funny BUT good video ya old chap!
First