That's a cool tool you made, at my workshop we welded that piece on top of an extended hex nut, put the nut in a vice and use the allen key with a small pipe for some extra lever to take the chuck off.
I've had a DHP458 since 2015, I could've bought a brushless but chose brushed because they're much cheaper to replace than controllers. I'm obviously not using it enough as it's still on the original brushes and working perfectly.
that drill never held up to hard level use for us. We burned them out so easily drilling corrugated steel. You could throw parts at them if you wanted, but this drill would always melt the brush card or burn out a rotor. The 1st gen brushless was the best drill Makita made for 18V (XPH07 in NA, don't know the model number elsewhere). Never had any controller issues and they'd take a beating much better. Even if they cost more to repair those drills paid for themselves because it did the job so much better than any brushed Makita before it. Then the XPH14 came after and all kinds of geartrain and hammer drill issues....Makita's drills missed so much more than they ever hit.
@@jaywelker5566 Thank you for taking the time to reply to my comment, interesting that the 1st gen brushless models were the best as I've always had trouble with 1st gen products so I decided to stick to what I know. Sounds like I missed out on the good stuff. I've had some funny smells come out of it while giving it some abuse but I've let it cool down for a few minutes and it's gone back to work without issue. I guess it depends on the trade you're in, their drills and hedge trimmers have been good to me but their chainsaws, impact wrenches and brush cutters have let me down.
Just came back after a long day taking my seized chuck off from my Milwaukee. This video helped me a lot. Many thanks. I had to use a blowtorch to heat up the chuck, and then I used a hammer at the end. I guess i cut a little bit too high over the spindle threads, so it was harder for the chuck to collapse on itself. Took more hammering as well 😂
Would have been nice to know the make of replacement chuck - a Jacobs or a cheap one. Also would have liked to see a new chuck screw, as whenever I do this the screw heads are always chewed up.
It's only a generic chuck. If I was fitting a quality one. I would be fitting the exact same chuck again. These dhp458 drill come with a Japanese chuck, and it's one of the best I find.
I've got one of these. For some bizarre reason after a day or two of no use when you pull the trigger nothing happens, only the light comes on. But as soon as you take the battery off and put it back on, it works again???
Loox like a battery with failing contax. No pøwer, but the light worx because of the capacitor inside. My drill did similarly until I realized I had to disassemble the batterÿ and solder-fix the motherpins on the board inside, then fixed them in position with carefully placed glüe gun blobs.
@Surmoka Unfortunately not, it's the same whichever of my batteries I use. I've tried disconnecting the light and the battery indicator on the drill but I still have the same problem. I think it slowly drains the battery as well 😫
That's a cool tool you made, at my workshop we welded that piece on top of an extended hex nut, put the nut in a vice and use the allen key with a small pipe for some extra lever to take the chuck off.
I've had a DHP458 since 2015, I could've bought a brushless but chose brushed because they're much cheaper to replace than controllers. I'm obviously not using it enough as it's still on the original brushes and working perfectly.
that drill never held up to hard level use for us. We burned them out so easily drilling corrugated steel. You could throw parts at them if you wanted, but this drill would always melt the brush card or burn out a rotor.
The 1st gen brushless was the best drill Makita made for 18V (XPH07 in NA, don't know the model number elsewhere). Never had any controller issues and they'd take a beating much better. Even if they cost more to repair those drills paid for themselves because it did the job so much better than any brushed Makita before it. Then the XPH14 came after and all kinds of geartrain and hammer drill issues....Makita's drills missed so much more than they ever hit.
@@jaywelker5566 Thank you for taking the time to reply to my comment, interesting that the 1st gen brushless models were the best as I've always had trouble with 1st gen products so I decided to stick to what I know. Sounds like I missed out on the good stuff. I've had some funny smells come out of it while giving it some abuse but I've let it cool down for a few minutes and it's gone back to work without issue. I guess it depends on the trade you're in, their drills and hedge trimmers have been good to me but their chainsaws, impact wrenches and brush cutters have let me down.
Much nicer way than the angle grinding down to the threads, always thought that was extremely risky
Nice job Dean. Never knew you could take the chuck loose from the inside.
Just came back after a long day taking my seized chuck off from my Milwaukee. This video helped me a lot. Many thanks. I had to use a blowtorch to heat up the chuck, and then I used a hammer at the end. I guess i cut a little bit too high over the spindle threads, so it was harder for the chuck to collapse on itself. Took more hammering as well 😂
Cheers for this video, sure seams a lot more friendlier than smashing everything with a mallet
Funny that mallet only works on older tools. Modern drills normaly need to be cut of or dismantled
In America Rohm has a website for replacement chucks you put your tool model (Dewalt Makita etc) but not in Europe...
Would have been nice to know the make of replacement chuck - a Jacobs or a cheap one. Also would have liked to see a new chuck screw, as whenever I do this the screw heads are always chewed up.
It's only a generic chuck. If I was fitting a quality one. I would be fitting the exact same chuck again. These dhp458 drill come with a Japanese chuck, and it's one of the best I find.
Brilliant! Great tip as always!
I take my hat of 🎉
Nice demo
👍👍
Why was no lubrication added to the gear box?
It's amazing how beat up these tøøls always are.
I've got one of these. For some bizarre reason after a day or two of no use when you pull the trigger nothing happens, only the light comes on. But as soon as you take the battery off and put it back on, it works again???
Loox like a battery with failing contax. No pøwer, but the light worx because of the capacitor inside. My drill did similarly until I realized I had to disassemble the batterÿ and solder-fix the motherpins on the board inside, then fixed them in position with carefully placed glüe gun blobs.
@Surmoka Unfortunately not, it's the same whichever of my batteries I use. I've tried disconnecting the light and the battery indicator on the drill but I still have the same problem. I think it slowly drains the battery as well 😫
No grease in the gearbox?
"How to replace the chuck on a Makita DHP458"?
Send it to Dean to fix it.
I would have liked to see an explanation of why the other chuck wasn't working I mean what failed
What was the socket name?
Well done 👍
Thanks Dean
i cant get the screw out i know it unscrews to the right, but it aint working.
Did you stop using the cutting/grinder method to replace the chuck?
I hope so
That method damage the thread inside. It work but not good for his reputation anyway
Jesus, thats my job in the future. The chuck is almost screwed on ours but the damn screw rather cammed out instead of loosening.
In future heat gun the screw and then let it cool, heat a second time and while hot it should be easier to remove.
👍👍👍
I wonder if some penetrating oil and some patience would have loosen the jaws.
That chuck has seen better days, let it rest.
👏👏👏👏👏
Left hand thread always hurts my brain 😅
too bad its in that black bar portrait format, cant see a thing
Cool
That's a chonker
D Haech P 458 😂
Table colour chany
Nice work! Have you ever tried soaking the chuck in Aero Kroil to see if it would come loose? Just a thought.Always enjoy!
first
👍👍👍👍👍