Good vid. Have watched A1-Auto and others. They're good too, and you're the 1st to say your an amateur. Always thought it looked easy, already bought the parts. Now I'm sure I can save that $200, $300 or $400. Thanks.
Thanks very much! Yes, I am very much an amateur. I know which way to turn the wrench, and which end of the screwdriver to hold. That's about it. I've done spark plugs, oil changes, tire changes, just real basic stuff. In fact I even changed the radiator out on this car much later on. But I'm by no means an expert, just a little more advanced than a novice. You can definitely do this. Plus, you have my video--I didn't have a video to help me along.
Thanks very much! What I said is true, I had never done this job before. It's not a difficult job per se, but there are a few things to know. You are now armed with that knowledge.
if you need to flush the system. i "discovered" this. set the heater to high, fill the system with tap water, run for 1 minute. Drain. Then place the leaf blower to each of the holes to blow out the tap water. Of course, the radiator is removed and flushed. then, put together the system and fill up with DI water. 36 cents a gal in walmart. . Blow out the residual water as before. This way, after 2 flush-blow cycles, most of the previous liquid is gone. By flushing with DI water once, you remove most of the minerals. Ca, Mg, Fe and others form precipitates with the phosphate anticorosion additive, this is why I am promoting the DI water and air-blow.
Regarding the wif's 2000 Camry: 1. Have you done any repairs on it recently?? 2. Has it ever broke down on you or Patty because I know the water pump failed on her? 3. Current mileage? 4. does it have any problems currently and if so, what are they? 5. Is the engine light on and if so, what for?
1. No, not recently. 2. The water pump failure, it seized. That stopped the engine from running, and the timing belt popped off. It's a non-interference engine so no engine damage occurred. Water pump replaced, engine rolled back to TDC #1 and valves realigned, and it ran again. There were a few other instances. There was a dead battery or two over the years. Fortunately I make her carry jumper cables in the trunk, so either a passing motorist, or more often, the parking garage attendant has jumped her car. There was another time where for some reason the key wouldn't turn in the ignition. Turns out it was a worn key. We sat for the better part of an hour trying and trying and trying again and eventually got it. When I got home I got the spare key, that worked every time, so we immediately went out and had copies of that key made. And there was one other time in the winter, really bad snow, and outside of her job is a big hill. Her car got stuck on it. She kept trying to move and trying to move and my dad and I had to go out and rescue her. When we got there, somebody else had helped push the car and got it to a flatter position. The ABS light was on, which is normal since the front wheels were spinning but the backs weren't. That's a temporary condition that goes away after a few miles, which it did. There have been no other instances of her getting stuck somewhere. 3. 165, 000 give or take. 4. Yeah there are some suspension issues in the front. Steering wheel is crooked while driving straight. Leaking oil. 5. Oh yeah that's been on. It's got a bunch of different codes for a bunch of different things, mostly related. It's got a couple of EGR system codes, but none of them cause drivability issues. Then there's the P0420 code for the catalytic converter. Come inspection time, I got a guy that will get it passed for a small fee under the table. It's not worth fixing a lot of things anymore since it's 20 years old. 5 more years it'll become a classic and be exempt from any emissions checking so it won't matter if the check engine light is on.
My lower hose always stays cold n most of the radiator...top hose gets really hot but temp guage is in middle n i have heat...i just replaced thermostat....any idea...it doesnt seem like its openi g up or maybe waterpump isnt working?
@@jaykay18 it has 190k...i put the used radiator in it a year ago from junkyard...looks good but could be clogged...i guess i should take out thermostate n see if water pump propellar spins? Than check radiator...thanks thats what i was thinking...i drove it 10 15 min n dowsnt overheat but that hose never gets warm lol n other is smoking hot
@@jaykay18 so the water pump can work but not good? There is a new water pump in the trunk it came with...ive been driving it for 20k miles now...i havnt looked into it after installing new thermostat..that helped the temp guage spike
@@CainSample Junkyard radiator I wouldn't have touched. You can get a new one for not that much money. These engines also having timing belts, and if that belt hasn't been changed, it's 100,000 miles overdue. If it breaks, it's a non-interference engine, but it will leave you stranded. When the belt is being done, the water pump is only a couple more bolts. Replace all of those parts and you can get another 190K easy.
Could be any number of things. Check the butterfly valve on the intake, if that's dirty, that could cause it. A bad or dirty MAF sensor can cause that. A bad MAP sensor can cause that. Could also be faulty oxygen sensors. If you have a check engine light on, read out the code and see what it says, that may give a clue.
@@romeodavenport9317 Could be a bad thermostat. If you haven't changed it yet, you're at the right video. It could also be a failing water pump. It's also possible you have a faulty coolant temperature sensor, which tells the fans to come on and off. And make sure both fans run, if one doesn't, that could be why.
Habib, you are using the wrong kind of coolant. Toyota uses pink color since quite long ago. Color reflects the anti-corosion additives. Toyota-pink has phosphates. I love phosphates, because they are stable and insoluble. different anti-corosion additives may interact with each other, and cancel its action, or may form precipitate in the system. There are some coolants that are "all makes and models". These have no anticorosion additives, and if used, will dilute the corosion-inhibitors. I would only use these temporarily, when in a hurry, and when I know that there will be major repair soon. Or if I dont care about the car. Best price: Walmart, Supertech, 11.83 for 1 gal of 50/50.
Thanks, you are correct 100%. The coolant that's in there, the traditional green stuff, is what a shop put in previously after having the timing belt and water pump replaced. So they screwed it up to begin with. I just carried on with it, otherwise I'd have to drain the whole system and flush it out. 2 years ago, a driver t-boned it and destroyed it. So you don't have to worry about the green coolant anymore.
Definitely was not this man's first rodeo. Excellent instructions for the complete automotive idiot. If this is your first time replacing a thermostat in this car, rewind and watch it several times 'before' turning a wrench. This may prevent major damage to your car or yourself!
Thanks very much! I'm no mechanic, though I sometimes play one on UA-cam. This was truly the first time I had ever done this job. I do have a knack for figuring things out, and for giving great instructions that are broken down for anyone to understand.
....Last ending part "it really is true" government spends millions of our /yur taxpayers money, just to put a band aid on it(& band aid made in..) is he a kfi640 am Radio (10pm Pacific time) Listener..?
I believe that's the wrong thermostat for the 5SFE engine. There is supposed to be a jiggle pin in the round t-stat body, which BTW should be installed with the pin at the 12 o'clock position. And YES IT IS IMPORTANT as it's essentially the only way to bleed smaller trapped air bubbles in the engine block so it can pass through to the radiator where it can be then removed from the system by the overflow reservoir. Air bubbles cause hot spots around cylinders and in the head which can warp mating surfaces and also burn out the head gasket prematurely. There's all sorts of bad that can happen from the small amounts of trapped air that are supposed to be bled out through the jiggle valve. Just sayin' See it here: www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-143-0654-Thermostat/dp/B000CB1QX2/ref=sr_1_14?crid=2UE6X8N7DC8BO&dchild=1&keywords=2000+camry+thermostat&qid=1619847218&replacementKeywords=thermostat&sprefix=2000+camry+ther%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-14&vehicle=2000-76-1011------------&vehicleName=2000+Toyota+Camry
That was the thermostat they had at the local auto parts store. No jiggle pin in it, and I'm sure there have been thousands of 5S-FEs running out there with stats with no joggle pins. This one has been installed for 4.5 years now, no difference or change in how long it takes to heat up, no difference or change in the temperature gauge, and all has been working fine. I appreciate the information about the jiggle pin, and will keep that in mind next time this car needs a thermostat, if it needs one; the salted roads are eating the body away.
@@dbfcrell8300 In my opinion, it was the last good 4-cylinder Toyota ever made. My self, I've graduated to their 1MZ-FE and 2GR-FE 6 cylinder engines in my other cars, and I'll never go back to a 4. This 5S-FE the wife drives, and rain, snow, sleet, hail, freezing, or boiling, it starts right up and goes. It's got 175K on the clock now, not really a lot for one of them. Replaced the timing belt a few times already, due for another soon. But like I said, the salt on the roads is rusting it away. The broken pavement everywhere has killed the suspension so I'm going to put new bushing and stabilizer links, as as well control arms in, all of them are shot. Should be good for a while after that.
@@dbfcrell8300 Yeah, I know what you mean. I don't believe in this electric car BS. It's simply another example of them solving one problem, but creating 7 more in its place.
![[DIY] 01 -06 Toyota Camry How to replace the thermostat (coolant leak)](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/RbEq0fH1xJ0/mqdefault.jpg)
Good vid. Have watched A1-Auto and others. They're good too, and you're the 1st to say your an amateur.
Always thought it looked easy, already bought the parts.
Now I'm sure I can save that $200, $300 or $400. Thanks.
Thanks very much! Yes, I am very much an amateur. I know which way to turn the wrench, and which end of the screwdriver to hold. That's about it. I've done spark plugs, oil changes, tire changes, just real basic stuff. In fact I even changed the radiator out on this car much later on. But I'm by no means an expert, just a little more advanced than a novice. You can definitely do this. Plus, you have my video--I didn't have a video to help me along.
For an amateur you did a better job explaining than a "mechanic" thank you.
Thank you!
For someone "who doesn't know what he is doing", you have done a splendid job. Thanks for all the clear and thorough detailed explanations.
Thanks very much! What I said is true, I had never done this job before. It's not a difficult job per se, but there are a few things to know. You are now armed with that knowledge.
A natural tech teacher well done, Merry Xmas from Western Australia
Thanks very much! I had never done this job before, what you see is exactly as it happened.
So simple ! You explained so well!
Thanks very much!
You are very good teacher , i love this 👍
Thank you!
if you need to flush the system. i "discovered" this. set the heater to high, fill the system with tap water, run for 1 minute. Drain. Then place the leaf blower to each of the holes to blow out the tap water. Of course, the radiator is removed and flushed. then, put together the system and fill up with DI water. 36 cents a gal in walmart. . Blow out the residual water as before. This way, after 2 flush-blow cycles, most of the previous liquid is gone. By flushing with DI water once, you remove most of the minerals. Ca, Mg, Fe and others form precipitates with the phosphate anticorosion additive, this is why I am promoting the DI water and air-blow.
Thanks for the info.
Regarding the wif's 2000 Camry:
1. Have you done any repairs on it recently??
2. Has it ever broke down on you or Patty because I know the water pump failed on her?
3. Current mileage?
4. does it have any problems currently and if so, what are they?
5. Is the engine light on and if so, what for?
1. No, not recently.
2. The water pump failure, it seized. That stopped the engine from running, and the timing belt popped off. It's a non-interference engine so no engine damage occurred. Water pump replaced, engine rolled back to TDC #1 and valves realigned, and it ran again.
There were a few other instances. There was a dead battery or two over the years. Fortunately I make her carry jumper cables in the trunk, so either a passing motorist, or more often, the parking garage attendant has jumped her car. There was another time where for some reason the key wouldn't turn in the ignition. Turns out it was a worn key. We sat for the better part of an hour trying and trying and trying again and eventually got it. When I got home I got the spare key, that worked every time, so we immediately went out and had copies of that key made. And there was one other time in the winter, really bad snow, and outside of her job is a big hill. Her car got stuck on it. She kept trying to move and trying to move and my dad and I had to go out and rescue her. When we got there, somebody else had helped push the car and got it to a flatter position. The ABS light was on, which is normal since the front wheels were spinning but the backs weren't. That's a temporary condition that goes away after a few miles, which it did. There have been no other instances of her getting stuck somewhere.
3. 165, 000 give or take.
4. Yeah there are some suspension issues in the front. Steering wheel is crooked while driving straight. Leaking oil.
5. Oh yeah that's been on. It's got a bunch of different codes for a bunch of different things, mostly related. It's got a couple of EGR system codes, but none of them cause drivability issues. Then there's the P0420 code for the catalytic converter. Come inspection time, I got a guy that will get it passed for a small fee under the table. It's not worth fixing a lot of things anymore since it's 20 years old. 5 more years it'll become a classic and be exempt from any emissions checking so it won't matter if the check engine light is on.
My lower hose always stays cold n most of the radiator...top hose gets really hot but temp guage is in middle n i have heat...i just replaced thermostat....any idea...it doesnt seem like its openi g up or maybe waterpump isnt working?
Either the water pump isn't working, or working well, or perhaps your radiator is clogged up with stuff. How many miles?
@@jaykay18 it has 190k...i put the used radiator in it a year ago from junkyard...looks good but could be clogged...i guess i should take out thermostate n see if water pump propellar spins? Than check radiator...thanks thats what i was thinking...i drove it 10 15 min n dowsnt overheat but that hose never gets warm lol n other is smoking hot
@@jaykay18 so the water pump can work but not good? There is a new water pump in the trunk it came with...ive been driving it for 20k miles now...i havnt looked into it after installing new thermostat..that helped the temp guage spike
@@CainSample Junkyard radiator I wouldn't have touched. You can get a new one for not that much money. These engines also having timing belts, and if that belt hasn't been changed, it's 100,000 miles overdue. If it breaks, it's a non-interference engine, but it will leave you stranded. When the belt is being done, the water pump is only a couple more bolts. Replace all of those parts and you can get another 190K easy.
@@jaykay18 awesome thanks! The radiator looks brand new n i couldn't beat $40...still doesnt mean its clogged...ill check it out...thanks 👍
Why was your rpm’s at 2k while idling
12:10 "OK, right now I'm revving the engine a bit". Try that part.
Thank you so much
No problem.
Nice job!
The government Band-Aids....lol......priceless.
Thanks very much! I thought of the band-aids gig while repairing this, and it was worth it!
Granted you don't do this too often, but, have ya ever thought of those spill-free funnels that EricTheCarGuy uses?
"I'm running 2 places, gotta conserve, hun!"
jaykay18 Beg pard!
if remove thermostat have any problem on RPM in toyota camry?
You'll have a problem if you do that, the engine will generally never get up to full operating temperature and it will give you a check engine light.
Well done
Thank you.
sir why occured the RPM.needle problem up and down,
Could be any number of things. Check the butterfly valve on the intake, if that's dirty, that could cause it. A bad or dirty MAF sensor can cause that. A bad MAP sensor can cause that. Could also be faulty oxygen sensors. If you have a check engine light on, read out the code and see what it says, that may give a clue.
@@jaykay18 thank u so much ,
Sure, no problem.
@@jaykay18 I will check these all that u tell me then I inform u abiut result, so best wishes
Thanks so much, best of luck.
Good job!!!! Now it beer time!!
Yeah this was really only a 1 beer job!
Life saver
Thanks.
Did this and it still leaking dam
Double check your work.
@@jaykay18 my gauge keep going up an down can you tell me what could it be
@@romeodavenport9317 Could be a bad thermostat. If you haven't changed it yet, you're at the right video.
It could also be a failing water pump.
It's also possible you have a faulty coolant temperature sensor, which tells the fans to come on and off. And make sure both fans run, if one doesn't, that could be why.
Habib, you are using the wrong kind of coolant. Toyota uses pink color since quite long ago. Color reflects the anti-corosion additives. Toyota-pink has phosphates. I love phosphates, because they are stable and insoluble. different anti-corosion additives may interact with each other, and cancel its action, or may form precipitate in the system. There are some coolants that are "all makes and models". These have no anticorosion additives, and if used, will dilute the corosion-inhibitors. I would only use these temporarily, when in a hurry, and when I know that there will be major repair soon. Or if I dont care about the car. Best price: Walmart, Supertech, 11.83 for 1 gal of 50/50.
Thanks, you are correct 100%. The coolant that's in there, the traditional green stuff, is what a shop put in previously after having the timing belt and water pump replaced. So they screwed it up to begin with. I just carried on with it, otherwise I'd have to drain the whole system and flush it out.
2 years ago, a driver t-boned it and destroyed it. So you don't have to worry about the green coolant anymore.
Definitely was not this man's first rodeo. Excellent instructions for the complete automotive idiot. If this is your first time replacing a thermostat in this car, rewind and watch it several times 'before' turning a wrench. This may prevent major damage to your car or yourself!
Thanks very much! I'm no mechanic, though I sometimes play one on UA-cam. This was truly the first time I had ever done this job. I do have a knack for figuring things out, and for giving great instructions that are broken down for anyone to understand.
Funny man
Thanks.
....Last ending part "it really is true" government spends millions of our /yur taxpayers money, just to put a band aid on it(& band aid made in..) is he a kfi640 am Radio (10pm Pacific time) Listener..?
Nope, this is New York, and I don't listen to their webcast either.
Wrong radiator fluid
Nope. Came with red originally, was flushed out later in life for green, refilled with green.
I believe that's the wrong thermostat for the 5SFE engine. There is supposed to be a jiggle pin in the round t-stat body, which BTW should be installed with the pin at the 12 o'clock position. And YES IT IS IMPORTANT as it's essentially the only way to bleed smaller trapped air bubbles in the engine block so it can pass through to the radiator where it can be then removed from the system by the overflow reservoir. Air bubbles cause hot spots around cylinders and in the head which can warp mating surfaces and also burn out the head gasket prematurely. There's all sorts of bad that can happen from the small amounts of trapped air that are supposed to be bled out through the jiggle valve. Just sayin' See it here: www.amazon.com/Beck-Arnley-143-0654-Thermostat/dp/B000CB1QX2/ref=sr_1_14?crid=2UE6X8N7DC8BO&dchild=1&keywords=2000+camry+thermostat&qid=1619847218&replacementKeywords=thermostat&sprefix=2000+camry+ther%2Caps%2C151&sr=8-14&vehicle=2000-76-1011------------&vehicleName=2000+Toyota+Camry
That was the thermostat they had at the local auto parts store. No jiggle pin in it, and I'm sure there have been thousands of 5S-FEs running out there with stats with no joggle pins.
This one has been installed for 4.5 years now, no difference or change in how long it takes to heat up, no difference or change in the temperature gauge, and all has been working fine.
I appreciate the information about the jiggle pin, and will keep that in mind next time this car needs a thermostat, if it needs one; the salted roads are eating the body away.
@@jaykay18 I have no doubt you're right about that. This is a testament to the build quality of the 5S-FE.
@@dbfcrell8300 In my opinion, it was the last good 4-cylinder Toyota ever made. My self, I've graduated to their 1MZ-FE and 2GR-FE 6 cylinder engines in my other cars, and I'll never go back to a 4.
This 5S-FE the wife drives, and rain, snow, sleet, hail, freezing, or boiling, it starts right up and goes. It's got 175K on the clock now, not really a lot for one of them. Replaced the timing belt a few times already, due for another soon. But like I said, the salt on the roads is rusting it away. The broken pavement everywhere has killed the suspension so I'm going to put new bushing and stabilizer links, as as well control arms in, all of them are shot. Should be good for a while after that.
@@jaykay18 If my 4 ever dies, I'll probably have to go electric, cause by the time mine dies in 2044, that'll prolly be the only option.
@@dbfcrell8300 Yeah, I know what you mean. I don't believe in this electric car BS. It's simply another example of them solving one problem, but creating 7 more in its place.