Your dedication and tenacity is not only impressive but also entertaining to watch. If they ever figure out some formulation in the material where it does not ever chip or break, and still retains that edge, the knife world will never be the same again. Looking forward to how this turns out when you try to resharpen the whole edge.
The Tormek has a few diamond wheel options. Micro-Surface Finishing Products Inc. has diamond mesh belts that will fit the Ken Onion version of the Worksharp.
I imagine something like the Tormak Diamond wheel might work well on it, or maybe Atoma Diamond stones. There`s probably some specialized sandbelts for it aswell, I just don`t have one of those big Belt-Sanders xD
Thanks Pete. What a grueller, also thanks for your passion and dedication. Really enjoy what you do and highly rate you. That metal TC stuff seems too tough but to me it's not worth the hassle/ time maintaining that edge, so I think i'll give that one an EDC miss. ATB from Mcr. UK.
Meanwhile, Pete has progressed from sisal rope cutting injuries to tungsten carbide sharpening ones. I'd expect to see a video on which one is worse. Good luck my man!
I think they make Boron wheels that might fit on your Tormach. That would at least touch it up. But i know they make diamond wheels for the Tormach because i use one, and i know that would do a nice job on that knife.
I've been using tungsten carbide machine tooling every day for the past 20 years, and I've always had a desire for a high-quality set of kitchen knives make from tungsten carbide. However, I've noticed that no one seems to manufacture such a set.
You gotta have the right wheel to cut carbide. It’s actually a very soft material relatively, but it’ll cut carbide like butter. Silicon carbide is what you need. And don’t quench or cool it.
the problem with the kme is the length of the stones they are just so short. Even removing small chips on steal such as s30v or low end 154cm takes a while. Now when reprofiling m390 and cpm-20cv on my zero tolerances and even thinner blades such as my spydercos takes a ridiculous amount of time. Your quickest option I would think would be using the edge pro, even though I do not like system as a whole but the longer Stones make for quicker cutting when doing chip removal and reprofiling. Or you could always just get that nasty chip out with a extra coarse diamond plate freehand.
since diamond is still much much harder than tungsten carbide I suspect that your beast is already completely worn down from sharpening. that happens quick for coarse stones actually; generally for diamond plates this comes sooner rather than later with a lot of sharpening.
I,ve always just had normal knives that were not that hard to sharpen. So I decided to buy one with s35vn. It took me hours to reprofile it into a hair popping finish. I was kind of astonished at how hard it was to sharpen using traditional methods. I realize there are even better steels. Not sure I would even want a knife that was even harder to maintain. I think some of these super steels are just to hard for the average person to maintain. Aus 8 is perfectly fine for most people's needs.
@@SG-ds8pryeah, you need diamond or CBN for high carbide powder steels. Maybe you could use other stones for a touch up or microbevel but it's slow progress.. I still like plain low carbide stainless like 14c28n. It's tough stuff.
If it hasn't been said yet, Tormek with a quality DIAMOND wheel will do it. Plus you have some grit choices. There are a few providers of diamond wheels for Tormek system. Just understand that CBN is different and NOT typically rated for Tungsten Carbide.
What a perfect knife material. Chips and needs impossible materials to resharpen. What do you feel is the best overall steel for a hard use but sharpen-ability outdoor knife?
For an outdoor knife with manageable sharpening, probably the tried and true stainless staples, S35VN, 154cm or AEB-L - or if you dont mind it being non-stainless, A2 is generally decent bang for the buck. I dont mind 3V either.
This is why basic steels won't be replaced by super space NASA nano-materials. When something holds an edge ten times longer, it is a hundred times more difficult to sharpen back up (exaggeration intended)
it will for ultra rich people, like let's say a wealthy person wants to get into wilderness survival stuff, or maybe hunting so they buy one of these Sandrin knives, they have $3000 fixed blades now, made entirely out of tungsten carbide, so they buy that. Then go out into the wilderness a bunch and use it until dull and now what? Well, they're rich enough to buy a $3000 knife, so either they just buy another one or pay a professional with the right tools to sharpen it for them. Easy, and so you see who these knives are made for.
Tungsten carbide is literally harder than aluminum oxide, so normal Al2O3 sharpening stones will grind/tear it rather than cutting it, which will never form an apex and therefore will never be sharp. You need diamond or CBN to attempt to sharpen it.
If that performs like any other ceramic blades I've sharpened, you would have problem with refining the apex so you end up with a shiny bevel that cuts like a saw. BTW: sharpening ceramic with KME gold wears it out significantly.
its not ceramic... its tungsten carbide... like comparing an obsidian scalpel to a normal one, ceramics dont like to sharpen cause they """"chipped""""" to make a sharp edge this is a metal, there should be 0 issues with apex refining
It took me 20 min to resharpen Sandrin Torino from factory 38° to 36 and polish the bevels. Not an adventure at all. Used to spend much more time sharpening S125V.
I wonder if you can use one of those stay sharp tungsten sharpeners I see this guy named brad always pushing on UA-cam. He said his sharpeners will sharpen anything.
Word of warning mate,TC dust is pretty toxic and can cause long term health issues. It's not as bad as DU, but still pretty detrimental to your health.
Alumina ceramic wont touch it neither will silicon carbide. Only poly crystalline diamond will touch it due to the hardness but it will knock most of the diamond right off the stone (poor kme beast destroyed fo sure). They prob sharpen it with a polycrystalline diamond suspension of various sizes.
Not for me, I'm afraid. Such extreme edge-holding properties come with severe penalties to toughness and as you have so amply demonstrated, it is difficult to re-sharpen even with diamond tools. I'm hard on my knives, I'd end up breaking or chipping that blade within a week. The KME system you made me buy should be here Friday.
I was watching thinking the beast would prob do that. Then you pulled out the beast. Then the beast went into fast forward more and I was thinking, no way, that's way too much beast.
There is very soft wheel for bench grinders that will grind carbide very well. They are green in color and very soft. I believe that they are not any kind of exotic material, its just the softness that makes them work. Not a real solution for what your trying to do here, just saying that there must be a solution out there.
You're not going get a burr on carbide, and you have to use a media that is harder than what you're trying to machine. such as diamond or silicon carbide wheels
"promising powder" sounds like a great way to turn a pretty fine night into an awesome early morning.
I recently reprofiled a router bit and used a 4” diamond wheel on a grinder and dmt stones. Six hours later I was done. Love your videos. Thanks!
Six hours?! That's a whole other level of patience
Your dedication and tenacity is not only impressive but also entertaining to watch. If they ever figure out some formulation in the material where it does not ever chip or break, and still retains that edge, the knife world will never be the same again. Looking forward to how this turns out when you try to resharpen the whole edge.
The Tormek has a few diamond wheel options. Micro-Surface Finishing Products Inc. has diamond mesh belts that will fit the Ken Onion version of the Worksharp.
on the upside, you probably trued your tormek wheel with that first go...
And then gouged a line in it at 3:13 XD
As with the mirror polishing of the Mora Bushcraft: I'm glad it's you and not me doing it. You are a hero!
What did that beautyful Z-hunter ever do to you?
How much life is left on the Beast after that sharpening session?
Thank you for sharing! 👍
Love the video game-like music during the diamond reprofiling. 😎👏🏻👏🏻🇨🇦
You're he only one that has attempted this. Thanks.
That's quite an insane knife, tungsten carbide is no joke.
So what is Sandrin's process for putting the edge on the knife in the first place?
I wonder how long it would take to get a polished edge, and if that improves edge retention.
Tungsten just sharpened the sharpener
I imagine something like the Tormak Diamond wheel might work well on it, or maybe Atoma Diamond stones. There`s probably some specialized sandbelts for it aswell, I just don`t have one of those big Belt-Sanders xD
Thanks Pete. What a grueller, also thanks for your passion and dedication. Really enjoy what you do and highly rate you. That metal TC stuff seems too tough but to me it's not worth the hassle/ time maintaining that edge, so I think i'll give that one an EDC miss. ATB from Mcr. UK.
Meanwhile, Pete has progressed from sisal rope cutting injuries to tungsten carbide sharpening ones. I'd expect to see a video on which one is worse. Good luck my man!
Nothing like cutting a groove in your stone. So much for knifesharpening being therapeutic.
I think they make Boron wheels that might fit on your Tormach. That would at least touch it up.
But i know they make diamond wheels for the Tormach because i use one, and i know that would do a nice job on that knife.
You never tried with a blackstone or even a diamond stone with the Tormek? - I think that would have been interesting.
I've been using tungsten carbide machine tooling every day for the past 20 years, and I've always had a desire for a high-quality set of kitchen knives make from tungsten carbide. However, I've noticed that no one seems to manufacture such a set.
I use a diamond grinder wheel to sharpen tungsten with no coolant works pretty good
You gotta have the right wheel to cut carbide. It’s actually a very soft material relatively, but it’ll cut carbide like butter.
Silicon carbide is what you need. And don’t quench or cool it.
Thanks for your effort. It was really interesting.
Mail it in for "LifeSharp" mate!
Diamond or CBN abrasives are absolutely necessary to grind tungsten carbide, at least, in an efficient manner.
Tungsten Carbide blade!
Diamonds!!!
DeBeers - A girl’s best friend
Did you ever finish sharpening it Pete?
This makes me wonder what Sandarin's intended method of edge maintainance is
@Jye Vallett:
Buy another one
🤣
Unconventional but effective
You dont have diamond steels, mate?
@@VicariousReality7 not yet mate, gotta buy an expensive peice of EDC gear called an engagement ring for the missus first
@Jye Vallett:
First comes the engagement ring.
Then comes the wedding ring.
Finally comes the suffering.
🤪
I need a girlfriend 😋
This tungsten going to replace steal for EDC light use? Seems so to me.
the problem with the kme is the length of the stones they are just so short. Even removing small chips on steal such as s30v or low end 154cm takes a while. Now when reprofiling m390 and cpm-20cv on my zero tolerances and even thinner blades such as my spydercos takes a ridiculous amount of time. Your quickest option I would think would be using the edge pro, even though I do not like system as a whole but the longer Stones make for quicker cutting when doing chip removal and reprofiling. Or you could always just get that nasty chip out with a extra coarse diamond plate freehand.
Just wanted to say that this is the best yootoobes video ever! I'll probably even watch it, sooner or later.
When we sharpen tungsten carbide tools, it's diamonds or nothing. Fun to watch though! 👍
since diamond is still much much harder than tungsten carbide I suspect that your beast is already completely worn down from sharpening. that happens quick for coarse stones actually; generally for diamond plates this comes sooner rather than later with a lot of sharpening.
You are The Beast Pete.
I,ve always just had normal knives that were not that hard to sharpen. So I decided to buy one with s35vn. It took me hours to reprofile it into a hair popping finish. I was kind of astonished at how hard it was to sharpen using traditional methods. I realize there are even better steels. Not sure I would even want a knife that was even harder to maintain. I think some of these super steels are just to hard for the average person to maintain. Aus 8 is perfectly fine for most people's needs.
Honestly if it took you hours to get S35VN sharp then you are doing something wrong or using bad sharpening equipment.
@@SG-ds8pryeah, you need diamond or CBN for high carbide powder steels. Maybe you could use other stones for a touch up or microbevel but it's slow progress.. I still like plain low carbide stainless like 14c28n. It's tough stuff.
Use a wet silicon carbide belt sander. Or a diamond wheel that machinists use to sharpen their their tungsten carbide cutters.
If it hasn't been said yet, Tormek with a quality DIAMOND wheel will do it. Plus you have some grit choices. There are a few providers of diamond wheels for Tormek system. Just understand that CBN is different and NOT typically rated for Tungsten Carbide.
3:18
What a beautiful sound
5:01 :3
Do you normally run your tormek edge trailing like that?
I don't know if you knew, but to sharpen with a tormek: the wheel has to turn in the other direction.
Any idea what a CBN wheel would do?
New Tormek wheel or can you re-profile it?
I would expect it to even itself out over time of normal use
I'm sure Pete has a dressing attachment for it, or he could just put the knife back in the jig.. LOL
hehe, yeah theres a dressing attachment. Its made of tungsten carbide lol
Got the torino on the way. Cant wait. Im a worksharp guy, so im kimd of intimidated....
I've seen the reviews ya have up and ordered one myself.
@@lovescamaros1 cool. Glad to be a positive influence. Really pleased with her so far. Thanks for watching!
What a perfect knife material. Chips and needs impossible materials to resharpen. What do you feel is the best overall steel for a hard use but sharpen-ability outdoor knife?
For an outdoor knife with manageable sharpening, probably the tried and true stainless staples, S35VN, 154cm or AEB-L - or if you dont mind it being non-stainless, A2 is generally decent bang for the buck. I dont mind 3V either.
@CedricAda Finally someone that admits A2 is better than D2. If only it was easier/cheaper to get.
My question is how TF did you get a chip in a tungsten carbide knife?
Anything that hard is brittle
looking forward to part 2, shaving sharp
I can't wait to see the rest... thank you for sharing also.. how could you do that to the Z-HUNTER?? You monster!!
the z-hunter without serrations is like cornflakes without the milk
Your level of production is bar none.
What was your actual time investment taking out that chip?
45 mins or so all up
Hello great team) what about spyderco double stuff ? Can you make small review? Thank you)
This is why basic steels won't be replaced by super space NASA nano-materials. When something holds an edge ten times longer, it is a hundred times more difficult to sharpen back up (exaggeration intended)
I wouldn't think they'd replace anything for sure. They do have their place though.
Also, where problems are presented solutions tend to arise.
it will for ultra rich people, like let's say a wealthy person wants to get into wilderness survival stuff, or maybe hunting so they buy one of these Sandrin knives, they have $3000 fixed blades now, made entirely out of tungsten carbide, so they buy that. Then go out into the wilderness a bunch and use it until dull and now what? Well, they're rich enough to buy a $3000 knife, so either they just buy another one or pay a professional with the right tools to sharpen it for them. Easy, and so you see who these knives are made for.
how did it chip if it is so frickin solid?...
It's brittle, just super wear resistance.
That was frickin fantastic
Question: The newer Fallkniven knives s1xb don't thay have this metal as a coating? Are impossible to resharpen?
You really need diamond stones for that.
Anyone who purchased a blade made of tungsten carbide surely knows to only try to sharpen it on diamond stones...
@@hendonburgism not really. Some people just buy and don't read.
Tungsten carbide is literally harder than aluminum oxide, so normal Al2O3 sharpening stones will grind/tear it rather than cutting it, which will never form an apex and therefore will never be sharp. You need diamond or CBN to attempt to sharpen it.
If that performs like any other ceramic blades I've sharpened, you would have problem with refining the apex so you end up with a shiny bevel that cuts like a saw.
BTW: sharpening ceramic with KME gold wears it out significantly.
its not ceramic... its tungsten carbide... like comparing an obsidian scalpel to a normal one, ceramics dont like to sharpen cause they """"chipped""""" to make a sharp edge this is a metal, there should be 0 issues with apex refining
Fuck that’s some tough stuff. I wonder if sandrin sharpens these for you, or just expects you to buy another once it’s dull lol
Well it'll take a lifetime to dull it lol
Waste of a perfectly good z- hunter mate.
Steven Robertson Said no one ever.
@@tron2119 Yup lol !
Well it IS a discontinued model. :-p Found myself cringing when Pete put the tip to the Tormek, then thought "Wait, what am I doing?"
@@CSGraves Discontinued model...that's even worse :-)
Lol!
Shocking! You need some thing harder then tungsten carbide to sharpen that knife.
But why didnt it work well with the coarse diamond stone?
Just wondering Pete if it's that hard how did it get that chip in the blade?
He put the edge on a hair pin and hammered it with a mallet
The video hasnt even begun, but i already know how it ends.
That will teach you to chip that knife again!
It took me 20 min to resharpen Sandrin Torino from factory 38° to 36 and polish the bevels. Not an adventure at all. Used to spend much more time sharpening S125V.
How did you manage to chip it in the first place???
Cutting something that shouldn't be cut.
check the previous video, I tested it to failing point. this is new material so an trying to show its properties
Diamond is the answer!
I wonder if you can use one of those stay sharp tungsten sharpeners I see this guy named brad always pushing on UA-cam. He said his sharpeners will sharpen anything.
It's amusing to think that i wouldn't be surprised to learn that z hunter sales increased since appearing on nick Shabazz's channel.
Doesn't a knife have to be at least slightly bendable to form a burr? Tungsten carbide's not going to bend.
these are things I hope to learn as my sharpening advenure continues
Word of warning mate,TC dust is pretty toxic and can cause long term health issues. It's not as bad as DU, but still pretty detrimental to your health.
diamond paste?
Get a CBN or diamond wheel for your Tormek ;)
Maybe the black stone from tormek would do better?
Hahah...isn’t that what they made the tiles on the space shuttle out of? Hey congratulations...it looks like you did it...sort of.
I have grinding wheels that I have used to sharpen tungsten carbide drill bits buttons... I could send you one ...
Alumina ceramic wont touch it neither will silicon carbide. Only poly crystalline diamond will touch it due to the hardness but it will knock most of the diamond right off the stone (poor kme beast destroyed fo sure). They prob sharpen it with a polycrystalline diamond suspension of various sizes.
Not for me, I'm afraid. Such extreme edge-holding properties come with severe penalties to toughness and as you have so amply demonstrated, it is difficult to re-sharpen even with diamond tools. I'm hard on my knives, I'd end up breaking or chipping that blade within a week.
The KME system you made me buy should be here Friday.
Any update about your experience?
@@fa6814 About the KME system? I love it, well worth the money.
My prediction is it should be easy based on sharpening tungsten tig welding points.
Are they made from tungsten or tungsten carbide? Quite a bit of difference there...
@@rockets4kids you're right different alloy.
Need a diamond lapidary wheel to sharpen that thing.
I was watching thinking the beast would prob do that. Then you pulled out the beast. Then the beast went into fast forward more and I was thinking, no way, that's way too much beast.
Green carbide grinding weel
That impressive stuff. Good luck. 😁
Tungsten won't hurt you any more than any SS or tool steel.
Get the Big Brown Bear in on this one. He might have some input.
i still dont get these knives
There is very soft wheel for bench grinders that will grind carbide very well. They are green in color and very soft. I believe that they are not any kind of exotic material, its just the softness that makes them work. Not a real solution for what your trying to do here, just saying that there must be a solution out there.
thats some grade A bullshit bro
@@juicy9592
Sorry son, didnt mean trigger your feefeees.
I can not sharpen my maxamet spyderco with a ken onion work sharp standard sapphire belt
Nice gshock
You're not going get a burr on carbide, and you have to use a media that is harder than what you're trying to machine. such as diamond or silicon carbide wheels
You can true your tormek stones with that thing.
You need a cbn wheel
We need to know what was strong enough to chip the knife in the first place. It was kryptonite, wasn't it? Ya, kryptonite. Superman's knife.
Now reprofile it to 12 DPS and run the rope test again!
Diamond
There was no SpongeBob 'xxx hours later' meme. Therefore, it couldn't have taken long to restore the edge.
Wow
The audio in this video is definitely worse than previous audios in your shed. If you have changed equipment, I prefer your other gear.
Should've just put carbide razors in a utility knife
Put cha a grindin rock one of those 6inchers...i guarantee itll move the
I remember making my one and only solid carbide folding knife blade (tanto), 30 years ago.
Farid Mehr, knife maker