It's not my system, It was developed by Professor/Doctor John Campbell. What I'm doing it trying to adopt his system to things that I pour in my garage. He might look at this and cringe but trying to control air entering the pour by using a pouring basin and a tapered sprue and runner are part of it. I can't remember on this pour if I printed my gates or cut them with a spoon. Either way, printing them is by far the best way for me to control metal entering the part. If you end up adopting the more traditional approach to casting and pouring your metal down a big 'ol open sprue, I'll quote Dante "Abandon hope all ye who enter here" 😆😆 Good luck with it. Keep me posted on your progress.
Great demonstration Perry. The cannon turned out great. It's a little surprising that your bronze made it all the way up there. "Strata". Absolutely! I had a dropout yesterday of just the top 2" of the cope when I had lifted it and turned it on its side.. I could see it was right where it was rammed at the lower layer maybe rammed too hard. Also it was sand from 2 different buckets so it may have been mulled at a different time therefore slightly different properties? Petrobond. Keep up the good work.
Thanks. I've had pretty good luck as long as I can keep the leading edge of metal moving. As soon as it stops I'm usually dead with it freezing in place. Man that sucks. Making molds is too much work to have them fall apart on you.
Thanks bud. I think that's how the big boys do it. They never really talk about it in the large bell videos but I've caught glimpses what looks like investment in the top of the sand mold
Hey Poppa P that’s a great bell and it came out bloody awesome 👏🏻 I can just imagine you when you quit UA-cam You’ll be dancing around like Quasimodo in your shed drinkin Diet Coke and ringing all your bells 😆👌🏻🍻🍻🍻🍻
@@swdweeb After watching, I was trying to figure out how to do it with multi piece sand cores... but I think I broke my brain when I started thinking about how to build the coreboxes.
Yeah, I thought about multi-piece cores, Even tri-level boxes. If I'm going to keep doing bells, I have a feeling I'm going to have to invest in a kiln. I wonder what a small one costs? Maybe one that doubles as a toaster ;-)
Man that came out great. That’s a beautiful crown, and it sounded like a bell to me... first time I have see something cast with the investment in place like that, very cool.
I've seen something like it in some of the "BIG" bell casting videos that are out there. That's where I got the idea. They never really show how they do the crowns so I was guessing on this one.
Very nice results. Your skill and humbleness is both impressive and inspiring. Now that we're getting dug out of the terrible storm that leveled central Wisconsin recently I'm hoping to get back to projects and filming.
That’s because my humbleness inversely proportionate to my skill 😄 Thanks! I know what you mean, no storms here but too hot to be melting metal. We finally had a cool streak so I finally like getting out there
A bell was an early goal of mine as well. I figured if I could cast a bell, I could cast anything. 😆 Well, I know that isnt true now. But, bells are really neat and I'd like to cast more of them. There is so much for me to learn to casting a bell properly, especially in getting a good tone out of one. I'm working on another technique now and then hope to start designing a shape and size that sounds good. Good luck with yours. You've picked a good thing to dream about.
I love it. I made a yoke for a 18 - 20 inch size bell today out back Tomorrow I will do some grinding and polishing it. It is for a church im making a bell for. The bell will be 20 inches wide , a chapel bell...
The first time around it didn't... probably for a couple of reasons. The first one that I forgot to clean the sand out between the gate and the bell pattern so the metal had to fight its way through. The second was the basin height. The basin I cut in the first attempt was actually below the top of the crown. I fixed that by building that little box on top of the cope and raising the basin.
@@lorenzozullicampane6552 Ciao amico, I was on my phone when I replied.... I hate typing on that thing 😄 I always appreciate hearing from people that feel the same way about bells that I so. I really would like to make more of them. More than that I'd like to be able to cast bells that sound good. Thanks for commenting
@@swdweeb if you like, visit ma UA-cam channel to learn about the italian bells, especialy the ones from Abruzzo because a live in those areas. If you see my video, enjoy them!
Very nice execution of an investment used for a core. The bell sounds good. As for the surface finish on the gate side, I wonder if you needed a bigger gate into the bell and you had some jetting on the gate side; but as the metal spread out through the rest of the bell the flow of metal was constrained enough to prevent surface bifilms. 🤔
I’m glad you finally got one to come out! It looks great! I’m thinking the different textures were possibly because you didn’t gate it on opposite sides. And you forgot to provision for a clapper.
You obviously didn't do it like it was done originally. The original cracked, twice. So, would that be a good thing or a bad thing? It's a seriously *NICE* bell. I hope you'll do another video once you finish the mounting.
Yeah, I gotta figure that out. I've been looking at how the original bell is mounted and I'll need to come up with some small brackets. Could be a little tricky.
Ah, "For whom the bell tolls" Not a bad effort - love the cannon - an interesting blend of the two technologies sand and investment. The finish may have improved by spreading the heat out via two gates. Maybe a reinforcing rod in the drag (or pipe to act as a vent too) up into the inside of the bell would have prevented that break away, I think that you were a bit lucky to get it back together right 😊. Bloody well done though, its a damn nice looking bell... Martin
You need a lathe. Also it wasn't heat but the gaseous chemicals released from the sand in that location under said heat differential. But please, spin those bells up, clean and tune them. You'll have a world of difference in end results.
I haven't finished the video yet but needed to ask before I forgot: Would the runner to the spin/surge trap be more effective if it was slightly arched so any potential contamination would stay to the outside of the curve to ensure it couldn't enter the mold? I'm planning on casting a replacement motorcycle mirror mount soon. I was hoping the 3d print would be strong enough for time saving but it wasn't. I cast a foot peg mount for my buddies. wasn't perfect but he was ecstatic about it and it saved him $60 or so. We were both shocked it worked the first pour. I wasn't expecting it to so I wasn't filming. Also, have you been thinking anymore about another #2019openersopen type challenge? I'm really looking forward to it.
Isnt that always the case. Either that or I forget to turn the camera on at a crucial moment. I don't know that curved runner would hurt but I'm not sure how much benefit you'll get out of it. Keep in mind the surge trap will really only catch any initial crud you've got coming through the runner. Once the runner is full and the metal is heading to the gate, that's where it's going to go. Good for you on the foot peg. It's always satisfying to make something that someone appreciates and the fact that it works just adds to the satisfaction.
Nice work! What size crucible was that and if possible, can you say roughly what % you had for leftovers? I can run a #4 crucible and I hope I can make a bell about that size.
I'm sorry it took me so long to respond. The finished bell weighs in at 1.6KG. Even if you doubled that for runners and gates and stuff your still under half a #4 crucible. Its been so long since I poured that bell I have no idea how full the crucible was.
@@swdweeb Gotcha thanks! I want to cast a decent sized thing. Bigger than even a very large hand bell. I think and hope the #4 can handle it. My furnace is pretty much built around a #4. I believe the #4 means I can hold four pounds of aluminum and something around twelve pounds of brass/bronze/copper.
Just watched one of your knife break videos. We're neighbors! I had hoped to dunk the hot bell in water but had a couple of problems. 1) I really didn't want to cause any stress fractures in the bell. Given the fragility of the bell metal I was a little afraid of doing that. 2) the sand was so stinkin' hot that I found myself waiting for things to cool down so I didn't burn myself in it. 3) and this is the worst excuse of all, the only bucket I had with water in it at the time was plastic and too small to hold enough of the bell to get the investment under water. I've had a problem with hot metal and plastic buckets before. Seems the metal has an unfair advantage and the plastic always gives up without a fight. ;-) Thanks for stopping by and leaving the comment. I appreciate it and agree, I've seen that "water separation method" work for others several times.
Given we are so close I may swing you by a metal bucket, I have three I use for quenching, and one is just being used as a trash can at the moment :). Maybe we can come up with a collaboration:)
Well... I actually have two five-gallon metal buckets right there. Its just that each of them were bone dry at the time. Maybe you can swing by and tell me how to plan ahead ;-D. I'm always up for a collaboration. Just have to find something that works for each of us.
My replies keep getting lost. It's not enough that UA-cam daily removes subs now they're deleting replies as well. Email me at swdweeb@gmail.com and we can talk.
how hot you get your alloy before puring? i have to say that the gating you are using to adress "bi-film" for bronze and brass type... aint working out for me. i got good surface finish even with a short fill, and thats why i am asking: i keep beefing up my feeder to get the metal to fill all the way, but it is not working, the bronze just keeps chilling before everything is filled. and you employ such small gates and yet, you fill it up. i knew that bronze is a pain to cast, but it must be possible to do somehow :-) just finished two pours today, one of which left me with a usable part.... any tipps of how to get copper based alloys to work better is welcome.
If you want to email me at swdweeb@gmail.com I'm happy to help any way that I can. I can't really tell you how hot the bronze was when I poured as I've never invested in a device that can measure metal that hot. I have an infrared thermometer but it quits registering before the metal is melted. I typically wait a few minutes 3-4 after the metal appears to be melted before I do anything with it, like scrape the top off. I also leave it in the furnace with the flame on until I am completely ready to pout. The time it takes me from pulling the crucible out to actual pouring is only 10-15 seconds.
@@swdweeb wow thanks, i'll send you a mail after i made some fotos of what it's all about, maybe a little video so you can get the feel for my problem :) i try to cast a steam engine... you'll hear from me and thank you again!
We machine a lot of bronze at work. We must have 10- 55 gal drums full of bronze scrap. I have cast aluminum before. How much hotter does bronze have to get and also do you have to use any special flux or anything?
I pour aluminum at 1325f (718c) and bronze around 2150f (1176c). Bronze has a much higher melting temp between 1570-1830f than aluminum. I don't use any fluxes simply because I don't have any. What I do use with bronze and (shudder) brass is a mixture of broken glass and borax. just a small piece of glass, 3/4" square?? and about a tablespoon of borax poured on the metal with melt and form a glassy lake on the top of the metal greatly minimizing the amount of oxidation created. I also pre-heat my furnace and crucible for 10-15 minutes before putting the metal in. It reduces the time the metal sits there exposed to an oxidizing flame.
@AaronB 24034 I was actually very near (walking distance) to the Whitechapel foundry a few months before they closed. At the time I didn't know anything about them, I kick myself now for that missed opportunity.
Non lo so, non ci ho mai pensato. Ho ancora molto da imparare per farli suonare bene. C'è anche molto tempo dedicato alla progettazione e alla preparazione del modello prima del lancio. Ho guardato il tuo canale, vedo che condividiamo l'amore per le campane. Hai mai visto qualcosa che documenti quanto spesse o sottili dovrebbero essere le pareti della campana? Sono sicuro che ci deve essere un calcolo matematico per lo spessore.
@@swdweeb hi, thanks for viewing my channel! there is a formula for calculating the thicness of a bell's walls, in italian we call it "sagoma" wich means shape. a bell is thinner at the top and gets thiccer twards the bottom so that it has more mass to resonate, also, bell casters in italy have they're own shape, some bell casters have been using the same shape for centouries. sorry for my broken english. if you'd like to talk more to me you can send me a mail to: campanaro99.campane@gmail.com i'd really love to see a professional bell cast by you and hear it and maybe buy it! who knows, one day you might do a video on an improuved bell!
love your videos mate, well done, but just have to say after your last video about casted, you know that heighth is not a word right? lol its height, just having fun with ya lol
Combining the 2 videos was BRILLIANT !!!
That bell came out very good, awesome collaboration guys 👍👍👍
Thanks. Giving credit where credit is due, it was Matt's idea
Sweet perry! That crown came out awesome on it! Well done 👍🏻 🍺🍺
Thanks bud.
Awesome work, the wife and I were confused at the beginning, but you straightened us out. Good Job!
Confused by showing Matt instead of me?
@@swdweeb The part Matt made for you, looked nothing like a bell.
Skully Wood & Metal well a little like a bell. They were just really short and squatty 😄
Came out really great ! Well done Perry
Thanks. 😁
Great pour, nice sounding Bell!
Thank you :-D
Good job. Looks like you made a good system for clean pours. I cant wait to start my pours. This gives me hope
It's not my system, It was developed by Professor/Doctor John Campbell. What I'm doing it trying to adopt his system to things that I pour in my garage. He might look at this and cringe but trying to control air entering the pour by using a pouring basin and a tapered sprue and runner are part of it. I can't remember on this pour if I printed my gates or cut them with a spoon. Either way, printing them is by far the best way for me to control metal entering the part.
If you end up adopting the more traditional approach to casting and pouring your metal down a big 'ol open sprue, I'll quote Dante "Abandon hope all ye who enter here" 😆😆
Good luck with it. Keep me posted on your progress.
Great demonstration Perry. The cannon turned out great. It's a little surprising that your bronze made it all the way up there.
"Strata". Absolutely! I had a dropout yesterday of just the top 2" of the cope when I had lifted it and turned it on its side.. I could see it was right where it was rammed at the lower layer maybe rammed too hard. Also it was sand from 2 different buckets so it may have been mulled at a different time therefore slightly different properties? Petrobond.
Keep up the good work.
Thanks. I've had pretty good luck as long as I can keep the leading edge of metal moving. As soon as it stops I'm usually dead with it freezing in place.
Man that sucks. Making molds is too much work to have them fall apart on you.
Kudos! I'm glad that you was able to make a good pour.
Thanks, me too!
looks great to me! Pretty cool mixing the sand and investment casting
Thanks bud. I think that's how the big boys do it. They never really talk about it in the large bell videos but I've caught glimpses what looks like investment in the top of the sand mold
Hey Poppa P that’s a great bell and it came out bloody awesome 👏🏻 I can just imagine you when you quit UA-cam You’ll be dancing around like Quasimodo in your shed drinkin Diet Coke and ringing all your bells 😆👌🏻🍻🍻🍻🍻
Ha!!! I had never thought of that, but get enough diet Coke in me and you'll never know what happens ;-D
@@swdweeb, Need to develop the hunched back - diet coke will probably do that for you in time 😊… Martin
Poppa P.... I like it. This may stick..😎
Clever idea to combine casting methods like this for the crown!
I couldn't figure out how else to do it and... it looks like from stuff like Whitechapel videos that that is how they do large bells.
@@swdweeb After watching, I was trying to figure out how to do it with multi piece sand cores... but I think I broke my brain when I started thinking about how to build the coreboxes.
Yeah, I thought about multi-piece cores, Even tri-level boxes. If I'm going to keep doing bells, I have a feeling I'm going to have to invest in a kiln. I wonder what a small one costs? Maybe one that doubles as a toaster ;-)
@@swdweeb keep your eye on Craig's list, sometimes kilns can be found really cheap or even free if you move fast.
@@tobhomott I was actually just looking. Found one for $150. Need to check the dreaded FB marketplace as well. I loathe FB
Man that came out great. That’s a beautiful crown, and it sounded like a bell to me... first time I have see something cast with the investment in place like that, very cool.
I've seen something like it in some of the "BIG" bell casting videos that are out there. That's where I got the idea. They never really show how they do the crowns so I was guessing on this one.
Interesting work Perry. I will watch again after work.
Another excellent casting and video my friend!
Must have been good, took almost 300 views before my first dislike showed up ;-D
swdweeb 😂😂I aspire to that kind of greatness someday!
That's a really cool bell Perry, and the opening sequence was very trick. Loved it.
Thanks mate
Very nice results. Your skill and humbleness is both impressive and inspiring. Now that we're getting dug out of the terrible storm that leveled central Wisconsin recently I'm hoping to get back to projects and filming.
That’s because my humbleness inversely proportionate to my skill 😄
Thanks! I know what you mean, no storms here but too hot to be melting metal. We finally had a cool streak so I finally like getting out there
Great video, I love it! I am not there yet with my casting technique, but a "bell" is a dream and a future project. Thank you!
A bell was an early goal of mine as well. I figured if I could cast a bell, I could cast anything. 😆 Well, I know that isnt true now. But, bells are really neat and I'd like to cast more of them. There is so much for me to learn to casting a bell properly, especially in getting a good tone out of one. I'm working on another technique now and then hope to start designing a shape and size that sounds good.
Good luck with yours. You've picked a good thing to dream about.
I love it. I made a yoke for a 18 - 20 inch size bell today out back Tomorrow I will do some grinding and polishing it. It is for a church im making a bell for. The bell will be 20 inches wide , a chapel bell...
That is too cool. Inspiring for me, as a fledgling caster.
Casting bells are the coolest things I've cast. I've got more if your interested ua-cam.com/play/PLU1QP34Dv8Y7TOxMBfKrdiiIyimetw8GT.html
Wow! Impressed. And a little surprised that the metal filled the details at the top
The first time around it didn't... probably for a couple of reasons. The first one that I forgot to clean the sand out between the gate and the bell pattern so the metal had to fight its way through. The second was the basin height. The basin I cut in the first attempt was actually below the top of the crown. I fixed that by building that little box on top of the cope and raising the basin.
Blimey that is amazing mate! I shall be studying this video over and over. Super job, lovely job Matt too :)
Thanks mate. High praise coming from you ;-)
Very nice indeed!
Even despite the political ramifications :-D Thanks bud
Great work Perry, it turned out great.👍👍👍🐺
Thanks boss!
That came out very well!
Thank you sir.
Spectacular bell! I like bells, good job
Thank you 😄
@@swdweeb nothing ☺️
@@lorenzozullicampane6552 Ciao amico, I was on my phone when I replied.... I hate typing on that thing 😄
I always appreciate hearing from people that feel the same way about bells that I so. I really would like to make more of them. More than that I'd like to be able to cast bells that sound good. Thanks for commenting
@@swdweeb if you like, visit ma UA-cam channel to learn about the italian bells, especialy the ones from Abruzzo because a live in those areas. If you see my video, enjoy them!
Very nice execution of an investment used for a core. The bell sounds good. As for the surface finish on the gate side, I wonder if you needed a bigger gate into the bell and you had some jetting on the gate side; but as the metal spread out through the rest of the bell the flow of metal was constrained enough to prevent surface bifilms. 🤔
Very cool looking bell. I was wondering about how it was going to work with your mold and that investment on top. Great job.
For not having a clue if it would work I'm pretty pleased with the results myself.
What a super casting mate - that really looks the business, well done. 🍺🍺🍺👍👍👍
Thanks mate
I’m glad you finally got one to come out! It looks great! I’m thinking the different textures were possibly because you didn’t gate it on opposite sides. And you forgot to provision for a clapper.
The clapper if it gets one will be drilled and taped into the head of the bell. There is plenty of material up there to do that.
You obviously didn't do it like it was done originally. The original cracked, twice. So, would that be a good thing or a bad thing?
It's a seriously *NICE* bell. I hope you'll do another video once you finish the mounting.
Yeah, I gotta figure that out. I've been looking at how the original bell is mounted and I'll need to come up with some small brackets. Could be a little tricky.
very interesting project and well done!
Thanks. THe next one is going to be really neat if I can pull it off
Thank-You!
You're welcome!
Ah, "For whom the bell tolls" Not a bad effort - love the cannon - an interesting blend of the two technologies sand and investment. The finish may have improved by spreading the heat out via two gates. Maybe a reinforcing rod in the drag (or pipe to act as a vent too) up into the inside of the bell would have prevented that break away, I think that you were a bit lucky to get it back together right 😊. Bloody well done though, its a damn nice looking bell... Martin
I bit lucky or a skillful eye or hand?? Ok, you're probably right ;-)
I agree a soldier or gagger would have likely helped prevent the sand from breaking away and staying inside the bell.
I expect netter draft on the shape of the bell would have been the biggest help. This one has nearly vertical walls through much of it.
@@swdweeb, Ok, some contribution from skilful eye I guess 😊… Martin
You need a lathe. Also it wasn't heat but the gaseous chemicals released from the sand in that location under said heat differential. But please, spin those bells up, clean and tune them. You'll have a world of difference in end results.
Next bell will be in water-based green sand and likely investment plaster. If you're right, that should go away.
I haven't finished the video yet but needed to ask before I forgot: Would the runner to the spin/surge trap be more effective if it was slightly arched so any potential contamination would stay to the outside of the curve to ensure it couldn't enter the mold? I'm planning on casting a replacement motorcycle mirror mount soon. I was hoping the 3d print would be strong enough for time saving but it wasn't. I cast a foot peg mount for my buddies. wasn't perfect but he was ecstatic about it and it saved him $60 or so. We were both shocked it worked the first pour. I wasn't expecting it to so I wasn't filming.
Also, have you been thinking anymore about another #2019openersopen type challenge? I'm really looking forward to it.
Isnt that always the case. Either that or I forget to turn the camera on at a crucial moment.
I don't know that curved runner would hurt but I'm not sure how much benefit you'll get out of it. Keep in mind the surge trap will really only catch any initial crud you've got coming through the runner. Once the runner is full and the metal is heading to the gate, that's where it's going to go.
Good for you on the foot peg. It's always satisfying to make something that someone appreciates and the fact that it works just adds to the satisfaction.
Nice work! What size crucible was that and if possible, can you say roughly what % you had for leftovers? I can run a #4 crucible and I hope I can make a bell about that size.
I'm sorry it took me so long to respond. The finished bell weighs in at 1.6KG. Even if you doubled that for runners and gates and stuff your still under half a #4 crucible.
Its been so long since I poured that bell I have no idea how full the crucible was.
@@swdweeb Gotcha thanks! I want to cast a decent sized thing. Bigger than even a very large hand bell. I think and hope the #4 can handle it. My furnace is pretty much built around a #4. I believe the #4 means I can hold four pounds of aluminum and something around twelve pounds of brass/bronze/copper.
@@heliarche Perhaps you should watch this 😄. ua-cam.com/video/eMErzjiIL0U/v-deo.html I address the weights of metals a crucible holds.
FYI, if you take the hot metal with investment, and put it in water, the investment comes right off :)
Just watched one of your knife break videos. We're neighbors!
I had hoped to dunk the hot bell in water but had a couple of problems. 1) I really didn't want to cause any stress fractures in the bell. Given the fragility of the bell metal I was a little afraid of doing that. 2) the sand was so stinkin' hot that I found myself waiting for things to cool down so I didn't burn myself in it. 3) and this is the worst excuse of all, the only bucket I had with water in it at the time was plastic and too small to hold enough of the bell to get the investment under water. I've had a problem with hot metal and plastic buckets before. Seems the metal has an unfair advantage and the plastic always gives up without a fight. ;-)
Thanks for stopping by and leaving the comment. I appreciate it and agree, I've seen that "water separation method" work for others several times.
Given we are so close I may swing you by a metal bucket, I have three I use for quenching, and one is just being used as a trash can at the moment :). Maybe we can come up with a collaboration:)
Well... I actually have two five-gallon metal buckets right there. Its just that each of them were bone dry at the time. Maybe you can swing by and tell me how to plan ahead ;-D.
I'm always up for a collaboration. Just have to find something that works for each of us.
swdweeb want to cast some copper knife/sword parts? I have a bucket of brass and copper I need to make into ingots, and my foundry isn’t made yet.
My replies keep getting lost. It's not enough that UA-cam daily removes subs now they're deleting replies as well. Email me at swdweeb@gmail.com and we can talk.
how hot you get your alloy before puring?
i have to say that the gating you are using to adress "bi-film" for bronze and brass type... aint working out for me. i got good surface finish even with a short fill, and thats why i am asking: i keep beefing up my feeder to get the metal to fill all the way, but it is not working, the bronze just keeps chilling before everything is filled. and you employ such small gates and yet, you fill it up. i knew that bronze is a pain to cast, but it must be possible to do somehow :-) just finished two pours today, one of which left me with a usable part.... any tipps of how to get copper based alloys to work better is welcome.
If you want to email me at swdweeb@gmail.com I'm happy to help any way that I can. I can't really tell you how hot the bronze was when I poured as I've never invested in a device that can measure metal that hot. I have an infrared thermometer but it quits registering before the metal is melted.
I typically wait a few minutes 3-4 after the metal appears to be melted before I do anything with it, like scrape the top off. I also leave it in the furnace with the flame on until I am completely ready to pout. The time it takes me from pulling the crucible out to actual pouring is only 10-15 seconds.
@@swdweeb wow thanks, i'll send you a mail after i made some fotos of what it's all about, maybe a little video so you can get the feel for my problem :) i try to cast a steam engine... you'll hear from me and thank you again!
@@MrZhefish Perfect!
We machine a lot of bronze at work. We must have 10- 55 gal drums full of bronze scrap. I have cast aluminum before. How much hotter does bronze have to get and also do you have to use any special flux or anything?
I pour aluminum at 1325f (718c) and bronze around 2150f (1176c). Bronze has a much higher melting temp between 1570-1830f than aluminum.
I don't use any fluxes simply because I don't have any. What I do use with bronze and (shudder) brass is a mixture of broken glass and borax. just a small piece of glass, 3/4" square?? and about a tablespoon of borax poured on the metal with melt and form a glassy lake on the top of the metal greatly minimizing the amount of oxidation created.
I also pre-heat my furnace and crucible for 10-15 minutes before putting the metal in. It reduces the time the metal sits there exposed to an oxidizing flame.
Awesome!
Thank you sir.
Well ring my chime, that "casted" up nicely. 😁 Sorry Perry I just had to do that!
Fine, I suppose I deserve that ;-)
@@swdweeb just pulling the chain. In all honesty the bell cast great and looked fantastic
I know you were, thanks
That was neat!
I kinda sounds like the old street car bells. :-)
It does actually, I hadn't thought of that until you said something.
Is there a place where you can buy those bell blanks to make your molds from?
I model and print the bell patterns myself.
I built a replica of the library bell out of clay 2 or 3 years ago and it rings to
😊 Ok
It's missing the crack, LOL!
It took 90 years for the bell that Pass and Stow cast to crack. Give it time ;-)
@AaronB 24034 I was actually very near (walking distance) to the Whitechapel foundry a few months before they closed. At the time I didn't know anything about them, I kick myself now for that missed opportunity.
Yeah, grassmayr is definitely one to see. I’ve watched that bell video of theirs a number of times
what alloy mix did you use ??
78% copper 22% tin
@@swdweeb thats why you got that high tone in the ringing, the more tin the higher frecuenzy
Hey hi! How much is it to cast a bell like that?
Non lo so, non ci ho mai pensato. Ho ancora molto da imparare per farli suonare bene.
C'è anche molto tempo dedicato alla progettazione e alla preparazione del modello prima del lancio.
Ho guardato il tuo canale, vedo che condividiamo l'amore per le campane. Hai mai visto qualcosa che documenti quanto spesse o sottili dovrebbero essere le pareti della campana? Sono sicuro che ci deve essere un calcolo matematico per lo spessore.
@@swdweeb hi, thanks for viewing my channel! there is a formula for calculating the thicness of a bell's walls, in italian we call it "sagoma" wich means shape. a bell is thinner at the top and gets thiccer twards the bottom so that it has more mass to resonate, also, bell casters in italy have they're own shape, some bell casters have been using the same shape for centouries.
sorry for my broken english.
if you'd like to talk more to me you can send me a mail to: campanaro99.campane@gmail.com
i'd really love to see a professional bell cast by you and hear it and maybe buy it!
who knows, one day you might do a video on an improuved bell!
cool
Thanks :-)
love your videos mate, well done, but just have to say after your last video about casted, you know that heighth is not a word right? lol its height, just having fun with ya lol
Did I say that? Shame on me.
@@swdweeb lol
Is this bell for sale?
Wouldn't you rather have this one?? ua-cam.com/video/9MQ0iysd-7c/v-deo.html
@@swdweeb i like it, how does it sound? Unfortunately it does not have a canon on top...
@@swdweeb it looks great!