Hahaha, the "were you not held as a child" really got me. Cool to see this video after bingeing the Harry's Garage Fulvia Sport resto series where they rebuild half the car by hand. Also: it'd be great to see a sketch of what you're making before we start. For those of us not familiar, it's like watching a jigsaw puzzle go together. Still a joy to watch your videos though.
Glad you enjoyed it! That's a great build by the guys doing that car for Harry. Thanks for the tip for the build process. I didn't have a formal plan for the adjuster. I'll do that for the frame video. Thanks.
I've binged on a bunch of your videos in the last few weeks and remain amazed at the level or precision/perfection you push for regardless of what you're working at. I thought my OCD was well developed but it pales in comparison to yours😉
I should do a video on this topic...though I don't know what I'd call it. It's not really OCD - but doing things with precision relaxes me and really takes no more time than being more haphazard. For example, when the adjuster came in last week from being powder coated...it just falls back into place without any drama. I watch other builds on YT and while we all make mistakes, you can just see where it's not going to last or where a problem will crop up. The number of times I see people drilling holes in freshly painted bodywork...yikes.
Thanks - at some point I should just buy tools instead of building them all the time. The wheel is different as I could not justify buying the wheel that I would like to learn with.
I was telling a Volvo 122 enthusiast yesterday about your project, and gave him the UA-cam channel name. He asked me what engine you were planning to use. I couldn't remember, and tonight I couldn't find the episode(s) in which you mentioned what it was. I found references to 5 cylinders and a couple of hundred extra horsepower, but no model. I think I remember that it was a newer Volvo engine. Thanks
Thanks Gord - The car will be getting the engine out of an S60R (but with a 2.3L bottom end instead of the 2.5). HP goals are a little guesswork at this point, but shooting for 400 hp (wheel).
Cool to see you jumping into another branch of fabricating! I’m very impressed by how much you did with the tools you have. I couldn’t do half that even if I had access to a full machine shop.
Thank you very much! Sometimes it takes more time to get things done when you don't have access to a machine shop. The sprocket and hub trick is something I've used on a few projects. Not having access to a metal retailer where I live forces some of this creativity.
It had me stumped for a while - I kept seeing more complicated devices and to get over this hump, I thought about what I needed it to do and the solution was reasonably simple.
Thanks, I’m just finishing my bead roller. English wheel next. A friend gave me a new set of Stryker wheels , made years ago. The wheel is next project. I really appreciate your video of the adjuster. I’ve been agonizing over a design for a while. This helps a lot. Thanks.
Thanks - that's a very good friend you have to give you a set of wheels! I agonized for years over this design. I just didn't like the exposed screws etc on what I was seeing and the solution for the captive nut/adjuster wheels seemed more complicated than I think they need to be. I hope your wheel turns out.
Well, now I know how an English wheel is built, but I still don't know what it's for... I guess I'll just have to wait for the next and future episodes!
This is really timely, I just bought a small english wheel to make a couple of patch panels. I'll be curious to get your impressions of using the bigger wheels, I'm not all that happy with the narrow wheels on my bench mount Craftex unit. Keep up the good work Professor.
If you applied silicone grease on the plastic guides it would slide with almost zero friction we used it on guide on machines tgat had ptfe runners it eliminated any Drag
Great video - nice tricks for simple low tech fab. Suggestion: add a very short short section at the beginning as an “executive summary” - showing finished product, and how you are building your wheel - then all the great content in this vid. Very good as it was tho.
That looks very good and love how you compensated for the back lash on the double nut. I was just suprised that you never put any lubrication on the treads to prevent wear but maybe you might later after its painted. This looks rugged and should last a long time.
Craig, excellent work as per usual. I think you should fab a bigger wheel with knobs, like Wray's. It'll be easier to turn and you can count the turns!
I could write it all down, but haven't done it yet. I'll post it in the description when I get a chance. The only thing I bought is the wheel from McMaster-Carr (they have lots of different ones) and the plastic - which is just UHMW and no big deal. It's simple enough.
Nice ! The good thing with outside adjusters is that you can fine tune the wheels against each other if the frame isnt 100% straight. But you will probably get your frame perfect. 😅
Gauntlet dropped...I'm sure going to try to keep it straight! I know it will be a challenge. The bottom anvil cradle has adjustment if things get a little twisty.
@@daahoo Thanks - I was giving you a wink - love a challenge. In truth, I'm obsessing about the weld process for this frame right now...so I'm watching some F1 instead of working.
just me being lazy, you put a lot of work into your adjuster, and i thought that most of the work is already done with an acro prop and all that would be needed is the lower anvil holder to fit in the slot made for the acro top pipe, i recon all an English wheel needs to work is just have adjustable pressure from above and below the anvil wheels and of course be in alignment with no excess movement. anyway I'm going to give it a go coz i am poor and cant afford the price of a new one,
Wow - your drive is endless….. and incredibly inspirational. Thanks for sharing this build. Several times I’ve been tempted to just go by the HF version, but haven’t pulled the trigger thinking I would love to build my own. Your approach seems reasonable. I have a lot of tools, but I don’t have a planer. Do you have any hint on another way to trim the UHMW to thickness if you didn’t have a planer?
Thanks. I think the best bet would be to measure the gap between the tubes and get the right thickness of plastic. I could only find 6 mm locally, but could have ordered material that would have worked.
@@ThrottleStopGarage ok - that makes perfect sense…… And then just trim the fit with shim stock if required. I suspected it was that simple 🙂. Also, thanks for taking the time to remind us all how useful adjustable parallels can be. I keep forgetting those are in the drawer. Any chance you made sketches of your design that you would be willing to distrubute in a pdf for a PayPal gift 🤔? Finally, all hail the algorithm 👍👍😎👍👍
There is a threaded nut inside the body of the smaller tube. The top of the larger tube is designed to capture the threaded rod and allow it to rotate.
@@ThrottleStopGarage YES... I HAVE SEEN IT IN SEVERAL VIDEOS... I DON'T KNOW WITHOUT TIRES OR ELECTRICS... I JUST WANT THE NAME OR CODE TO LOOK FOR THEM ON AMAZON...
The ones I like are from Norseman (www.norsemandrill.com/) Cle-Line are also excellent - every major drill bit maker has them. There are no affiliates - I'm not trying to sell stuff you don't need.
@@ThrottleStopGarage No worries. Affiliate links dont cost the buyer any more they just give a tiny kicknack to the person who set up the link. Thanks for info!👍
Great video until the section about the McMaster part numbers. Unfortunately perspective you have because I enjoyed watching the video up until that point.
I'm sorry this has offended you. They don't pay me to advertise their products. Their website is easy to navigate and search and if you want to build an English wheel, you can search. Truth is - they don't want to sell to Canadians and make it difficult.
LOL. I didn't think I was in a bad mood. Checking the exchange rate can induce mild annoyance and McMaster's policy on selling to Canada sucks. All part of the charm of living in the Great White North.
Congratulations! You have thr biggest and shinyiest peice of metal I have seen on UT today. Nice work, keep it coming
Thanks
Well done interesting video!
Glad you enjoyed it!
This is a great way to start fabricating panels in metal. Understanding the machine enough to make it will inform your use.
That for sure was the idea. Now to get out there and weld up that frame!
Hahaha, the "were you not held as a child" really got me. Cool to see this video after bingeing the Harry's Garage Fulvia Sport resto series where they rebuild half the car by hand.
Also: it'd be great to see a sketch of what you're making before we start. For those of us not familiar, it's like watching a jigsaw puzzle go together. Still a joy to watch your videos though.
Glad you enjoyed it! That's a great build by the guys doing that car for Harry. Thanks for the tip for the build process. I didn't have a formal plan for the adjuster. I'll do that for the frame video. Thanks.
What are the collars called and the hub you have in your hand at 19:42? Thanks. I love this and am starting to collect parts.
Very cool, thanks for sharing.
Glad it was useful.
I've binged on a bunch of your videos in the last few weeks and remain amazed at the level or precision/perfection you push for regardless of what you're working at. I thought my OCD was well developed but it pales in comparison to yours😉
I should do a video on this topic...though I don't know what I'd call it. It's not really OCD - but doing things with precision relaxes me and really takes no more time than being more haphazard. For example, when the adjuster came in last week from being powder coated...it just falls back into place without any drama. I watch other builds on YT and while we all make mistakes, you can just see where it's not going to last or where a problem will crop up. The number of times I see people drilling holes in freshly painted bodywork...yikes.
This is EXACTLY what I'm working on - thank you for sharing this information. You're a very talented fabricator!
Glad it was helpful! Final episode coming this week.
I love your approach
Thanks!
Awesome job!
Thank you! Cheers!
*FAB* ulous! Love the way you found a way around all of your tool shortcomings!
Thanks - at some point I should just buy tools instead of building them all the time. The wheel is different as I could not justify buying the wheel that I would like to learn with.
I was telling a Volvo 122 enthusiast yesterday about your project, and gave him the UA-cam channel name. He asked me what engine you were planning to use. I couldn't remember, and tonight I couldn't find the episode(s) in which you mentioned what it was. I found references to 5 cylinders and a couple of hundred extra horsepower, but no model. I think I remember that it was a newer Volvo engine.
Thanks
Thanks Gord - The car will be getting the engine out of an S60R (but with a 2.3L bottom end instead of the 2.5). HP goals are a little guesswork at this point, but shooting for 400 hp (wheel).
nice, a project I've considered for a long time glad to watch you make one first.
Thanks - working on the frame this weekend.
Cool to see you jumping into another branch of fabricating! I’m very impressed by how much you did with the tools you have. I couldn’t do half that even if I had access to a full machine shop.
Thank you very much! Sometimes it takes more time to get things done when you don't have access to a machine shop. The sprocket and hub trick is something I've used on a few projects. Not having access to a metal retailer where I live forces some of this creativity.
Beautiful work Mr. thats hows its done.❤❤❤❤
Thank you kindly
Great video, thoroughly enjoyed this. The quil is what keep me from trying to build one myself but you made it look so simple to do.
It had me stumped for a while - I kept seeing more complicated devices and to get over this hump, I thought about what I needed it to do and the solution was reasonably simple.
Thanks, I’m just finishing my bead roller. English wheel next. A friend gave me a new set of Stryker wheels , made years ago. The wheel is next project. I really appreciate your video of the adjuster. I’ve been agonizing over a design for a while. This helps a lot. Thanks.
Thanks - that's a very good friend you have to give you a set of wheels! I agonized for years over this design. I just didn't like the exposed screws etc on what I was seeing and the solution for the captive nut/adjuster wheels seemed more complicated than I think they need to be. I hope your wheel turns out.
When I build mine I think I might use a spring inside. Good job, I like overbuilt things!
Thanks. Not sure where you'd put the spring.
Good work should work very nice I like that you make this with simple tools that most peoples have in the shop 👍🏻
Glad you like it
Lovely piece, looking forward to the final product.
Thanks. Fingers crossed that it all works.
Beautiful work!! Very inspiring for us shade tree mechanics!!
Thanks
Awesome as always....!
Thank you! Cheers!
Awesome Thank You
Glad it was helpful.
Just found your channel as I'm looking to build an English wheel. Great job and thanks for sharing, I look forward to seeing the rest of your build
Welcome! I'm cutting the frame video this week.
This is going to be good. We shared this video in our homemade tools forum this week :)
Thanks so much for the share. Really appreciate it.
Inspired.... many thanks
Have fun.
Well, now I know how an English wheel is built, but I still don't know what it's for... I guess I'll just have to wait for the next and future episodes!
Compound curves! We still have the frame to build then we'll get some cool stuff done (or fill my scrap bin with first tries!).
I have a complete machine shop and it’s hard to do the quality work this guy does. Wow!
Thanks - that's quite the compliment.
Some Nice tips thank you
Always welcome
Love the weld table .
Thanks - there's a video on how I built it.
Great video!
Glad you enjoyed it
first class job allowing for just using the parts you did.
Thanks - I hope it works well long-term.
This is really timely, I just bought a small english wheel to make a couple of patch panels. I'll be curious to get your impressions of using the bigger wheels, I'm not all that happy with the narrow wheels on my bench mount Craftex unit. Keep up the good work Professor.
Thanks Chad - I've got an 8 X 3" top wheel and 3 X 3 wheels for lower anvils. Who knows how it will all work out.
Great work as always!
Thank you! Cheers!
If you applied silicone grease on the plastic guides it would slide with almost zero friction we used it on guide on machines tgat had ptfe runners it eliminated any Drag
When it all gets done and I do the final assembly, I'll lube it up as you suggest. Thanks.
Lol, McMaster, “…they don’t even wanna sell to me”. Sounds like me and Grainger…. I know this video is a year old now but… liked and subscribed 😂
Thanks.
Nice job ! You have my subscription… thank you for sharing
Thanks - Frame video coming in the next few days.
Great video - nice tricks for simple low tech fab. Suggestion: add a very short short section at the beginning as an “executive summary” - showing finished product, and how you are building your wheel - then all the great content in this vid. Very good as it was tho.
Good suggestion. I knew something was missing. I'll do that in the next video.
That looks very good and love how you compensated for the back lash on the double nut. I was just suprised that you never put any lubrication on the treads to prevent wear but maybe you might later after its painted. This looks rugged and should last a long time.
Thanks - it'll all get lubricated when it's painted and assembled for the last time.
Craig, excellent work as per usual. I think you should fab a bigger wheel with knobs, like Wray's. It'll be easier to turn and you can count the turns!
Piece of hockey tape will work. 😆
@@ThrottleStopGarage I was referring to the amount of leverage you'd have with a bigger wheel!
Awesome work m8!
Thanks
Me gusto mucho, thanks
Cheers!
Is it possible to get a materials list would like to use you idea also for a planishing hammer. This video was awesome !!! Thank you for sharing.
I could write it all down, but haven't done it yet. I'll post it in the description when I get a chance. The only thing I bought is the wheel from McMaster-Carr (they have lots of different ones) and the plastic - which is just UHMW and no big deal. It's simple enough.
hi, great video. is that a wood planer that your sending the plastic through?
Thanks - yes - it's an old Delta that I've had for 20 years. Works great.
Nice !
The good thing with outside adjusters is that you can fine tune the wheels against each other if the frame isnt 100% straight.
But you will probably get your frame perfect. 😅
Gauntlet dropped...I'm sure going to try to keep it straight! I know it will be a challenge. The bottom anvil cradle has adjustment if things get a little twisty.
@@ThrottleStopGarage it was meant as a compliment 👍
@@daahoo Thanks - I was giving you a wink - love a challenge. In truth, I'm obsessing about the weld process for this frame right now...so I'm watching some F1 instead of working.
Would polishing the mill scale off the inner square tube (quill shaft?) make it slide easier on the UMHW?
Maybe a little. It's all going to be powder coated, so the shims can come out at that point. Otherwise, the fit is where I wanted it.
Craig: You could just go across the back alley and use my lathe,
Thanks Ken - I may darken your garage door in the near future!
,like the tutorial but have you thought of using an acro prop for the adjuster I'm sure they must have them in your part of the world.
Thanks Roy - they do have them - I just never thought about using one. Good idea though.
just me being lazy, you put a lot of work into your adjuster, and i thought that most of the work is already done with an acro prop and all that would be needed is the lower anvil holder to fit in the slot made for the acro top pipe, i recon all an English wheel needs to work is just have adjustable pressure from above and below the anvil wheels and of course be in alignment with no excess movement. anyway I'm going to give it a go coz i am poor and cant afford the price of a new one,
Wow - your drive is endless….. and incredibly inspirational. Thanks for sharing this build. Several times I’ve been tempted to just go by the HF version, but haven’t pulled the trigger thinking I would love to build my own. Your approach seems reasonable. I have a lot of tools, but I don’t have a planer. Do you have any hint on another way to trim the UHMW to thickness if you didn’t have a planer?
Thanks. I think the best bet would be to measure the gap between the tubes and get the right thickness of plastic. I could only find 6 mm locally, but could have ordered material that would have worked.
@@ThrottleStopGarage ok - that makes perfect sense…… And then just trim the fit with shim stock if required. I suspected it was that simple 🙂. Also, thanks for taking the time to remind us all how useful adjustable parallels can be. I keep forgetting those are in the drawer. Any chance you made sketches of your design that you would be willing to distrubute in a pdf for a PayPal gift 🤔? Finally, all hail the algorithm 👍👍😎👍👍
@@joell439 I'll see what I can dig up. DM on Instagram.
@@ThrottleStopGarage DM sent 👍
I'm a little confused how the adjusting screw is connected to the inside of smaller square tube that rides up and down. Can you explain further?
There is a threaded nut inside the body of the smaller tube. The top of the larger tube is designed to capture the threaded rod and allow it to rotate.
Hello... From Venezuela... A question... What is the name of the hydraulic or electric tool for ironing aluminum or iron sheets?
Do you mean a planishing hammer?
@@ThrottleStopGarage YES... I HAVE SEEN IT IN SEVERAL VIDEOS... I DON'T KNOW WITHOUT TIRES OR ELECTRICS... I JUST WANT THE NAME OR CODE TO LOOK FOR THEM ON AMAZON...
Thumbs up! My mommy raised me right.
Awe, thanks!
Have an affiliate link for that stubby drill??
The ones I like are from Norseman (www.norsemandrill.com/) Cle-Line are also excellent - every major drill bit maker has them. There are no affiliates - I'm not trying to sell stuff you don't need.
@@ThrottleStopGarage No worries. Affiliate links dont cost the buyer any more they just give a tiny kicknack to the person who set up the link. Thanks for info!👍
Great video until the section about the McMaster part numbers. Unfortunately perspective you have because I enjoyed watching the video up until that point.
I'm sorry this has offended you. They don't pay me to advertise their products. Their website is easy to navigate and search and if you want to build an English wheel, you can search. Truth is - they don't want to sell to Canadians and make it difficult.
Man, who angered you on narration day? Salt all over it!
LOL. I didn't think I was in a bad mood. Checking the exchange rate can induce mild annoyance and McMaster's policy on selling to Canada sucks. All part of the charm of living in the Great White North.