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Oil is 11 bucks . stick to comedy . You are annoying...last time I ever have to listen to this no hair having. 50cc no driving dude who talks too fucking much.look at his girlyman hands..go on. Look..clean...a good mechanic has a little under his nails .this one does.😂🙄😝🤔😝🙄🤣😂🤑🤙♈
Bruh I have a 2022 icebear maddog 50cc. I just want it to go 30mph an get there in good time. Purchased ncy variator an clutch . I live in a state emissions don't matter so I took off the egr shit an the carb I drilled out the cap for the mixture screw.
I love #4. The best thing that happened to my brother was getting a scooter. He changes the oil in his cars like a complete idiot. He’ll change the oil in a car with 1,500 miles on it just for something to do. He only uses Amsoil. So when he learned that he should change his scooter oil about every 600 mi., it was like a revelation. It takes ten minutes. It costs eight bucks. And he can do it every month and not feel like a complete idiot. For normal people, every 500 miles is what I recommend. It’s eight bucks.
wow. I change my car's oil every 3000 like they used to recommend in the old days. I never have engine trouble. your brother is smart. theoretically, you can change your oil every time you use the vehicle. when it's your vehicle, it's your choice. oil is cheap.
10,000 miles on the tao tao i blew a ring no compression going to go 80cc upgrade but NOT FOR TOP SPEED! i dont WANT to go 50mph on 10 inch tires but getting up to 35 more quickly is a safety issue and thats what i want from the big bore upgrade i ride in short hops and dont WANG it often its a country cruiser i appreciate your take on the whole thing excellent stuff
I loved this and agree with everything he said .i got over 4000 miles on my gy6 its just as fast as ever ....i change my oil once a week .these lil engines get dirty quick
You're one hundred percent right I went through that phase trying everything from Big Bore kits to performance CDI in the best thing you can do is lose weight Victoza I found to be the best performance item for your scooter I lost 30 lb and it's like the damn thing's turbocharged and there a whole lot more reliable and longer-lasting you save money out the ying yang
Lighter variator weights really made a huge difference on my scooter. It went from max speed of 30 MPH to 45 MPH. This one mod allowed the engine to actually get into it's power curve. I was impressed.
Mine were worn flat on every side, wot at 10k rpm to going to 6.5 g rollers and wot 7500 and a 13mph increase so yeah I can see that. I just but a bbk 100cc on and it didn't do much more
@@Manwichman the 100cc kit won't feel like much more without increasing air/fuel. Have you upgraded your carb, air intake, exhaust and so on? You wont get any faster than what your final gear will allow but you should feel a heck of a lot more pull out of the 100cc......I would think. But if it's still breathing through a straw with a gas trickle with jets that typically leave the bikes running a little lean to start with, you probably wouldn't notice much if anything
@@vamountainman2512 Wow, you just answered a question that has been on my mind for 2 or 3 years now thank you so much I had to do with getting the 100cc big bore kit and not changing anything else on it like the air flow keeping it factory and whatnot, the toque would feel like it was throwing me all around off the start and then it would feel like it was in first gear when you came up to a light, you had to keep the throttle going right up till you get to the light no coasting or you would end up coming to a quick stop. Thank you so much
Let's be clear about this, Scooters are designed to only run up to a certain RPM all these people modifine and getting more speed are because they're pushing their engine to its absolute maximum capabilities which means the longevity of the life of the engine is going to go downhill really quickly. CVT tuning is great If you've already done a big bore kit but if you're doing it on a stock engine Yes you will gain more speed but at the cost of trash in the engine really early. I do not suggest enhancing stock engines with CVT tuning unless you have a really good idea of what you're doing.
Man a swear I felt like you were talking directly to me and here the thing I've done all these things with no better results but I did change my oil consistently Love you dude
To add to the 'CHANGE YOUR OIL !' bit, that includes the final drive oil too. Maybe not every thousand miles, but certainly every two or three thousand. And use a good quality gear oil suitable for your local conditions, ie- if you have 30+ Deg days all the time don't use a 75W90 oil, go for maybe an 85W110. Fact is the primary gear bearings/cogs often run at 2-3 x the speed of the engine itself so the gear oil gets 'chopped up' pretty quickly.
I put different roller weights, bigger air filter, 90 main jet for the carb, bigger muffler, all the gimic racing wire, cdi box "the orange one", spark plug. Learning how to do the timing i feel was huge. The knowledge you can attain from youtube us crazy! Im not sure how fast it goes it toos the speedo out and i can go a little faster if i dont hit red lights.
Mann I relate to this big time because I went through a little trouble with my BMS Chelsea 150cc , all I did after the trouble, I replaced the carburetor all air and fuel hose , replaced the exhaust and a better quality spark plug and the rest is bone stock. I’m 6ft 230lbs and my scoot runs and pulls my weight no problem and I keep up with the flow of the vehicles on the road, oh and another thing , little by little I changed to all led lights, levers , better belt, and loctite on all nuts and bolts, So far it’s been reliable along with its regular maintenance 🤘😎👌🛵🏍️💯
I thought that the Chinese gy6 moped were made to be 72cc and dumbed down for US specifications and emissions. ... So installing an 80cc big bore is ok. But a 100cc big bore rode full throttle would guarantee future crank shaft failure. I've been riding my 80cc for almost 2 years. I ride heavy weight for slower take off but has great top speed for highway riding. I have been up to 55mph but now it is a steady 49-51 mph. Thank you for the info.
Yo Dan love this video man hands down agree with #1 DONT DO IT!!! “Performance CDI’s & coils” absolutely are worse for ANY build They simply make ANY bike run WORSE. No argument. #2 Big Bore Kits are a must for better performance but only IF you give it a proper higher amount of fuel/air/exhaust to be able to run it at a bigger CC. It’s absolutely necessary. No full throttle for long periods of time but you absolutely should do one for more speed BUT you NEED to proper parts to be able to run a BBK safely. But a BBK is definitely worth it as long as you don’t slap a kit on a stock everything scoot, no bueno. #3,4,5 Spot on. Very good advice you think it would be common sense with the oil but good to remind the hard headed & lazy lol Too many lights even WITH a bigger battery (which is necessary to run extra lights) Not too many. You’ll kill your electronics. Keep doing what your doing, I know I’m late to the video but I love it. I’m just here to support big bore kit with proper installation, upgraded Part support and use. And all will be well, I have the same super cheap Chinese big bore kit for three years zero issues and I even have a stock crank with stock bearings and seals. Maintenance and supporting parts go a long way
On #5 one key note: Consider using the highest film strength oil viscosity & quality: Like Full Synthetic V-Twin 20/50 (Made for Air Cooled Harleys). I believe offered by Valvoline, Mobil 1 & Supertech (Wal-Mart Quality House Brand). My Burgman 400 Maxi Scooter loves the 20/50 Full Synthetic V-Twin oil. Even though it's water cooled, the thicker film strength is great to deal with the uber high summer temperatures in the South. Your Air Cooled GY6 will love it too. Pro tip: Allow 2-3 minutes - more is great - of warming up engine & oil. This will help in every respect for engine longevity & minimize oil consumption.
I have a CFMoto Papio - 126cc air-cooled. CFMoto recommends synthetic 10w-40 every 600 miles. My wife has a Piaggio Liberty 150cc I-Get. I use synthetic 20w-50 as recommended every 600 miles. Do you think the Papio would do better on 20W-50???
@@garyfegal8963 Yes Sir, it could hurt nothing & help it to run better / last longer. Only minor negative might be a 5% drop in mpg. A tiny tradeoff for engine durability. Now, climate matters. In the Artic Circle / Alaska go 10/40. Here in Southern hot climates, (anything below South Dakota lol) go 20/50, Full Synthetic. PS on the Piaggio, does it have filter or screen ? 600 miles on Full Synthetic oil is an excessively short interval, to me. The oil lasts MUCH longer than that, as long as kept clean filtered. Mobil 1 did a test ran a BMW night & day for 100,000 miles same oil, but continuously filtered & then test analyized it. The oil didn't wear out at all. Amsoil did a similar test in the early 80s and same result. We only change syn cause it gets dirty & full of contamination. That's why I'll change my filter oil, but run the oil longer.
@@psalm2forliberty577 Yes full filter on the Piaggio and the recommendation is still every 1000k\600m. On the Papio is every 5000k/3000m and that has a full filter too. I always believed what your saying. I asked the dealer and the mechanic said the high revving engine wears the oil out. Sure. We are up here in PA and we don't really ride at all in very cold weather. As far as our bigger bikes I change oil and filter once a year as we are only putting a few thousand miles each during riding season. I already put 20W/50 in the Piaggio, full sythentic so I will put that in the CF moto also. Thank you!
big bore update got the kit wrist pin too long trimmed it down it all went toogether fine like yer videos and HELL YEA im getting up to 35 in a jiffy EXACTLY what i wanted shes a beast now thanks for the extreamly helpful videos
Good tip with the taotao or any other carburetor scooter-add a cap full of seafoam each time you gas up. Keeps the jets clean and the bike running smooth.
Big bore, a-12 cam, bigger carb , roller weights, exhaust, clutch spring, race coil, mush room air filter, more spark + more air in air out +more fuel, and more teeth for final drive. Please visit Thailand, we do all the motorbike mod and they are all good stuff.😂
Have a '16 Peace Sports 50cc Renegade. Got it right off the sales floor with .8 km on the clock. Top speed was 28 mph. Kept breaking belts every 20-50 miles. New clutch and variator and belts go 1000+. Popped in a 80cc big bore and getting 42-45 mph. You do have a lot of homework to find the right valve clearance, mine seems good at .004 both valves. I had to replace the CDI as a hole burned out the side on original 50 head, replaced with a stock unit. No problems as of yet on the upgrade. Using full synthetic oil every 800 +/- miles, change the brake and gear fluid every other oil change. No crazy do dads added except for a bigger tail box and front rack. A 12v adapter for phone charging when camping.
The oil and cdi spark plug mod advice is spot on but I ran my 150cc’s for years with no exhaust at all full throttle never had any engine issues just normal maintenance. Mopeds mods are cheap and easy to get more speed change your tooth size in your clutch for 22 dollars and change your rollers bc they matter a lot. Good fuel and carburetor would be next with the right jets. Big bore kits work well if done correctly the problem is all the knock of Chinese kits that aren’t actually 100cc kits. Drop in 100cc kits for 50cc moped don’t exist it’s really a 80cc. Using ball bearing grease in your wheel bearings helps alot it’s not called for but it helps.
Agree with you on most everything you said as fore the big bore kits the worst thing people can do when installing one of them is use the stock head yes it makes a lot of compression and alot of power but for a very short time they end up blowing the top ring land off the piston why it's like adding a turbo charger with tight ring gaps the most I ever got out of a big bore was 45 wide open no good for the most part the only reason I ever installed a big bore kit was for hill climbing power not speed and like you said the high performance parts are all trash
Can't agree more! Plus 35 years wrenching around with a formal "mechanical" education to go along. As a general rule of thumb all my stock scooters (and motorbikes now that we mention it). Have been extremely reliable and surprise, surprise amazingly decent performers! The trick: Really decent maintenance regime! That's it. The chaps at the club were always amazed. How come the guy with a pretty much, bone stock scooter goes faster. Than theirs with expensive "miracle" parts. Dumped into the mix without a clue... I lost count of the "amazing" sporty air filters, CDI's and other miracle parts that I left behind my OEM thing! ;-) Did I mention inexpensive to maintain and reliable! ;-)
I used to frequent moped army and most of the members there would brag about the expensive solvent they used to clean their carb and the expensive stuff they used and bought to make their vehicle pretty and faster. you couldn't disagree with them or they would get ugly. they didn't have a clue how to de-carbonize an engine. they would drive it until they needed to replace a piston and/or cylinder. you couldn't tell them anything. they spend more on the moped hobby than it costs to have and use a car.
Here in the UK its mostly kids who ride scooters, we call them Mopeds, at 16 you take something called a CBT (compulsory basic training) which allows you to ride 50cc, for most it's the earliest chance to get on the road, at 17 they can get a 125cc and at 18 take a full bike license. I understand why they want to upgrade the bikes, here in the UK they come electronically and mechanically restricted to 29MPH going uphill you'd be lucky to keep it at 25mph, they suck big time, if you upgrade the bike to a higher CC without updating your insurance you can get fined/lose your license, you have to undo some of those MODS before the bike has its annual MOT because of emissions tests and if caught by police riding a unrestricted bike on a CBT license you will have the bike taken away and crushed and you will lose your license. The reason you can buy mopeds in the UK for around £200 is because someone has usually taken off all the restrictions, thrashed it and now its due an MOT witch it'll fail. I am saying all this for the UK fans who are young and don't uunderstand the bikes are limited because you only have basic road training! Most common upgrade here is removing the variator ring and either upgrading the carb or modding the stock carb.. these are pretty harmless but again unless you are able to take away the other restrictions you're just adding a couple MPH at best, also changing oil as he said it vital, you'll see a big improvement on the bikes performance if you just change the oil, clean the carbs.
Thank you. I tend to check out everything before I buy it or try it. I was thinking of doing the big bore thing and have heard plusses and minuses. It's good to hear from a mechanic.
@@IFixShet Just out of curiosity, is a 50cc bike a good idea at all in a city full of hills? I live in a city in Tennessee that only has uphill or downhill, or possibly up the mountain. There is no flat space unless it's artificially made. That's why I was considering the big bore kit. I love this scooter, it's a trooper and I use it for everything, but I wonder if I'm going to burn it out on the hills.
@@Hollylivengood So as with any engine putting extra wear and tear on it with hills or grades definitely will impact the longevity of the life of the engine. I standard 50 CC Should be able to take on some decent grades. If you find that you still don't think you have enough power for the hills you can always Put lighter weight rollers in your clutch So that you have a higher RPM for the hills But you will lose some top end speed by doing this.
@IFixShet Oh speed has never been a huge thought for me. I just drive in the slow lane and everyone is welcome to pass. I do use the bike for everything though. I made sadle bags for the groceries, a carrier for my dog that hooks nicely on to three hooks on the front an the seat. Once strpped a bunch of lumber on the back rack and drove down Hixson Pike with that, a kid hung out the window of a pickup truck to get a pic of it. So far, the scooter has been tolerant.
Were was this video when I needed it😂. I’ll admit burnt through 4 of these things. Made the stupid mistake of full throttle since they were my primary vehicles and the upgrade fad. Now I have bikes. Now since I finally have seen this commonsensical video I will be getting them again but upgraded with common sense😂❤
Thanks for sharing that.... But, can a Chinese 50cc scooter be reliable if you really take care of it. Really baby it? .........Keep up the good work on the UA-cam.
🤣🤣 You're hilarious 😂 I am new to the GY6 riding. So seeing this video has educated me on the how to treat her every time we ride... I shall always be gentle as she will never ride me...😁 I liked and subscribed to your channel.
I just bought a 50cc scooter that’s 2 months old. It performs better than my last older 50cc but it does struggle on some inclines to maintain 30mph, although the engine is never revving real high so I don’t see how full throttle will hurt it unless you are going 35+ and revving it high. I’m big on changing the oil on everything I got and I probably over do it but hey it’s cheap so why not. I was looking at the big bore kits and I love the idea of having the extra torque, I don’t need to go super fast but having more get up and go would be great! I hadn’t thought about the overheating like you mentioned and I can see that possibility but I’m thinking if I’m not revving the crap out of it it may be just fine. Thoughts?
I have a few tricks to help with the losing RPM on Hills however it is very prominent on 50cc to lose potential on top end when going up an incline. They're not meant to be ballistic missiles by any means they're just little grocery Getters designed to go 7 to 10 Mi away from your house. Think about it this way the only cooling system on it is a fan and these engines run hot the little 50cc's are good for around 10 Mi before you should give them a break. Anything beyond that without letting it slightly cool off first you're just risking burning up the piston especially if you live in a hotter state. Think about it this way the average 50cc Chinese scooter engine only lasts around 10,000 to 15,000 mi if you're lucky and that's well maintained. It is rare that they make it over these numbers before they have catastrophic engine failure so the more polite you are to your scooter the longer it will last. If you compare the price of a Chinese scooter which cost around $1,600 if you buy it from a dealership and then you look at what a Honda or Yamaha or Suzuki cost a couple hundred dollars more you may as well just buy a reputable brand they are known to go 50 to 100,000 miles before having serious engine problems. I have a few tips and trick videos on how to gain RPM for hill climbs if you're interested just let me know and yes it will require some CVT case tuning and a little knowledge on your part
I got the orange CDI box that you showed at the beginning of this video in the top left-hand corner for my TaoTao pony it works great I get up to 42 mi an hour since I put it in I try not to go that fast but it's nice to have the ability
As I specified in the video some of the orange ones are fake and some are real however they don't really do much even if they are real they're not really helpful in any kind of way
Thanks man, I did some upgrades (carb and air filter cone) and it has a hard time staying running (only has about 300 miles on it). Going back to stock! :)
For us that's been riding mopeds for well ever!!! like I have LOL all of these are one-hundred-percent common sense facts so do yourself a favor and listen to this guy because I promise you he knows what he's talking about lol always use stock!!!
Big bore kits bend conrods.the roller seat for contra spring is good and the slider weights.stock contra spring 1000 rpm or stock.ive gone 67mph with stock contra.and 63 with the blue one.this is on my vino 125.im going faster than gy6.And plug coil to eliminate spark plug wire..I put a 4 mm over piston kit.alotmof torque but it havnt tuned for high speed.i bought a slide carb and parked it.its a 143cc engine if it does 70 to 74 nph.with good take off I will be happy and burn those gy6 150 Although a 171 kit I will like on another scooter
I completely agree with all of his points. I stayed away from the CDIs, coils, and other cheap “race parts”. I did install a big bore, HOWEVER, I went through the entire top end with a fine touch, removed all rough edges from the piston skirt, polished the piston crown, verified the correct gap on the piston rings, inspected every inch of the bore. I also installed a big valve head and cam and used the same fine touch there as well. I disassembled the new head and lapped the valves, cleaned up the ports and polished the combustion chamber and ensured I set the valve lash perfectly. I’ve been running this setup for 2,500+ miles at full throttle 24/7 every time I ride it. I have a ton of other time and parts invested into mine, always using the same fine touch performance technique I learned across the years. And have not had a single problem. It really depends on your skill level and how much of your time you want to invest. My 80cc scoot is faster off the line and faster to top speed than a stock 150cc. HOWEVER if I spent the same amount of money and time into a 150cc it would be a monster, food for thought. 😅
@scooterman7098 I think if you rewatch it you'll see that I say unless you know what you're doing and understand throttle control.... I love it when you guys come along and then try to weasel things to fit your agenda. Maybe you should try watching it again I'm pretty sure I was very clear about a Big Bore Kit
@scooterman7098 the takeaway from this was if you don't know what you're doing don't mess with it but what you heard was don't do it at all no matter what...
Mine is a Chinese my moped 🏍 i’ve never had any problems with it is due for an oil change as I’ve done 2000 miles on it My scooter is D restricted I will happily go 55 but I never put it use Throttle Most the timer to 30 miles an hour unless I’m down the road that requires me to go 40
The average Chinese scooter engine only makes it to eight to 12 thousand miles and that's with proper oil changes if you're lucky you get beyond that before the scooter engine Burns Out
Good Video, I do a bit of what you do also, yea, I think most of these parts are gimiky, and what I have noticed is that a certain part may give one bike a boost and that same part in another bike wont, or may not even work at all,,,,its all about finding the right setup for your specific bike
Im one of those crazy dudes who done almost everything on my little scooter. Spent tons of my money just for fun, and because I like the building. I am the kind that knows what im doing (most of the time) so i didnt expect it to go fast. And it dont! But it is seriously stronger uphill and of course acceleration is way better. Im happy with that, its fun! And probably someone will ask what i have done so ill list it right away: 82cc (50mm) cylinder, good one, not cheap china crap. New quality crank and bearings. Head with bigger valves, NCY cam, 24 mm intake + carb, Polini filter. Tecnigas silent pro exhaust. Polini variator, belt and clutch. Stage 6 17/51 gear kit. It goes 45mph and dont rev much there.
Love your videos. Especially the ones on scooter repair. I was thinking of adding a small 30W fog light and one of those eBay security systems to my 150cc scooter. Do you think that would overload my electrical system?
@dlfynrdr the easiest thing to do is to hook the lights up while the scooter is running put your multimeter on the battery and watch the voltage draw at idle. The battery should be over 13 volts charging at idle and it should be fluctuating if it's falling below 13 volts then I wouldn't install the lights
@IFixShet Cool. I'll do that. Thanks for the advice. What's your opinion on those ebay scooter alarms with the cutoff features? I've heard varying opinions on those things. I'm ultra paranoid about security on my next scooter. The last three I had were stolen right out of my front yard.
I agree with you with everything but you need to specify professionals only mechanical experience because these high performance kits do work scientifically I'm really into high performance and doing a lot of crazy sit with these scooters for the last 15 years but I do agree with you to a certain point but you need to specify cuz most of these guys are beginners they don't know what they're doing
I did specify that if you don't know what you're doing don't mess with it. Just like a big bore kit if you don't know how to use it properly then don't do it at all.
I switched all my lights and turn signals to low voltage LEDs and installed one beefy LED head light, and a USB I do change my oil once a month because I ride everywhere, and I've found the variator upgrades and the stator upgrade to be a massive help but I stay around 30 MPH I got it for the 100 mpg not the 100 mph, if I need to do 55 mpg I have a truck that gets 15 mpg
I wish you were closer to Easton,Pa. I want to get either a 50cc or a 150cc. I will be a new rider,never driven a motorcycle before. I am 5 feet 6 inches tall about 185lbs so not sure if a 150cc or 200cc would be too much for me? Just wish I could find a place near me or online that doesn't charge ya $399 for shipping and what ever it may cost to have it fully assembled and ready to ride once ya get it. I also have no idea what might be a decent reliable 50cc or 150cc Scooter. I have been looking at the Vitacci SPARK 150cc and the Vitacci Clash 200cc EFI Scooter and the X-PRO Maui 50cc,not sure if they a good quality or not or if they have a bad rap. I know you have to change the Oil every so many miles but what about for example brake fluid,or any other fluids if any. Oh can't forget the blinker fluid........ :P LOL.
Love the honesty. Bought a 250 super R. Changed oil 3x because in a day the crank os full of gas. Checked the needle and cleaned. Had 6m on odometer now it's at 300 and I am trying to figure out why this keeps happening. Any ideas ? I have been riding full throttle alot
Well there's only a couple reasons why you would get gas in your oil. Low compression causing Blow by, float height not set correctly allowing extra fuel to fill the cylinder that isn't burning off and it's being pushed into the oil sump, or is sticking float continuing to allow gas to pour into the cylinder while it's not running this would also mean that you have a vacuum problem
@@IFixShet so I drained oil again and installed a new carb 300 miles later no issues so dispite adjusting the needle I think the actual hole it sits in was bad as the new carburetor is bigger so I had to get a bigger intake but sooo much better now just have to adjust it to get the max throttle but 3 quarter of full I can hit 65 now
Back when I was 25 (1981), I had a Honda Hobbit and top speed was 20 mph. I rode that thing everywhere I could. Winter time was a killer, rain was a killer, Halloween was a real killer (couldn't outrun flying eggs) too. Speed wasn't a thing back then, just getting from point A to point B and back again. There was NO upgrade to that moped that I knew of. Now, today is a whole new game, I'm an ole man now and speed still isn't a thing with me, 25-30 mph is OK. But my reaction time isn't what it used to be, so buying a scooter isn't on the top of my list, even though I'd really like to have one. I don't see a whole lot of geezers around riddin em, mostly younger people. I call em liquor cycles (may not of spelled it rite). I live in what I call the country now.
💯, I switched to 150 CC I had the big board kit and all that that you mentioned I did have all does problems, but I switched it to 150CC and it stopped but you're right,i didn't miss the engine just the muffler and carb, bro im 200 i hit 70,but im ok ok with my bike 100.
Tbh just get a 70 2 stroke will shit on your 150 4 stroke top speed wise and acceleration mine does 70mph gps en gets there pretty fast and is still reliable im on 20k km with no major issues
i´ve always driven my 50cc scooters full throttle and have not had any problems with engines in 25 years.. i would say that is something like 40-50 thousand kilometers.. here in finland the standard way of restricting the speed on mopeds is to restrict the variator so that everyone and their dog drives max revs 100% of the time and there has not been any problems with engines lasting less here than anywhere else. people would talk about it if it would be a problem but it just isn´t. people even modify the cdi box for more revs and even then there is no problems with engines lasting. the moped i drive now has been driven about 20 000 k on full revs/gas 99% of the time with zero maintenance to the engine. no oil changes no nothing. and it runs great!
I'm referring to Chinese scooters.... most likely what you are riding is not Chinese during the whole time that you've been riding scooters Chinese scooters need to be treated slightly different if you want them to survive any kind of real longevity
Good point. My middle bike was Def Chinese though. A quingqi zoner. But it was 4 stroke so maybe that's why it lasted. Now I drive a 4t kymco super-8 which is /almost/ Chinese (Taiwanese). But my first bike was a Aprilia. 2-stroke though. So you are right. There was a selection..
Im getting a scooter ...40 and under speed limit for work. 15 minute...something that i can ride 2...my wife and i are about 260 pounds together. 168cc efi 14 inch tires. Im sure ill be here for help so ill thank you ahead of time.
Techs also know stock cdi box is most effective. Better advance then blue racing cdi. 80cc big bore is as big as I ever go. It's safer to have that little extra changing lanes
You should specify if you don't have mechanical abilities and know what you're dealing with cuz I installed a CDI kits and understand mechanically with the timing and jetting the carburetor is a big issue all the way around between timing and Big bore kits so you're right but you should specify the ginners that have no mechanical ability do not do any of this this is for the professionals only
@laurierichey137 When the scooter is new it's not so much of a problem but once you get into 3 and 4,000 miles it's time to back off the throttle a lot
all I have is a moped license it started leaking oil and I decided to get it repaired was it be $30 for new gas sits when I realize the motor has to be taken apart to repair each one that's when I decided to upgrade it to the big Bore kit 90cc I don't want it to go faster I need it to have more power to go up hills what's my fat ass so in the future I was planning to do it but since I had to take it apart and get it worked on why not just do it that's the reason I did mine
Bought 2023 50cc Solana from a ringold Georgia distributor would not cover 1000 mile warranty. 1073 miles two clutch belts new clutch and now flywheel stripped drive shaft. Bottom line cost me one dollar a mile. Paul Lee should start a produce company selling lemons.
All I've done to mine is add some underglow and put some LEDs in the storage compartment on the back just to make sure someone can see me stopping. I'm not doing anything else to the scooter it cruises me and my wife around at 35 mph just fine
Lol, I couldn't stop laughing at the oil part. I didn't change my oil for 6000kms. Still ran fine but I thought it was time. That shiz was the blackest jellyist oil I've ever seen, new oil made it able to Rev higher, been 1000kms since -_-
@@IFixShet sure would save more than a few heartbreaks. new cars now can probably tell on people who dont do maintenance. thatd be interesting. Also, I've actually read somewhere "they" are working on vehicles that continuously filter and recyle lubricants. making changing oil obsolete. reduce wastes, or maybe just throw the whole car out in a year?
Only use full throttle every once in a while other than that 3/4 throttle and your engine will last a long time a big bore kit wears out your engine much faster
8;18 Had me worried for a second, just have three extra lights, led signal lights on the side to be seen and led running light so cars behind can see the moped it running or stopping also does turn signals.
To be fair, the scooter *should* be designed to run WoT all the time, but when you get a chinese scooter, who knows if the manufacturer actually cared about things like adequate airflow / cooling, rpm limiting, or other such faff that is standard with scooters designed in other countries.
And that's why we can't be fair with our assessment because it is Chinese based. It's say 7 out of 10 work like they should 3 of those people now because they went wide open throttle burn up their scooters and toast their engine was it worth doing it in the 1st place or even taking the chance?
Hello I like your moped videos and you’re very knowledgeable with mechanical stuff. I just recently bought a 50cc wolf rugby and am hesitant on upgrading it past the magnetic drain bolts versus stock. Do you know if it’s worth getting a longer cvt belt for any performance improvements? Or any tuning to cvt for performance? Is it worth upgrading to better parts in the cvt? Any suggestions are much appreciated thanks SB
Let me try to explain this to the best of my ability 1st of all thank you. To get me started the belt size really does not increase the speedThe variator can only allow the belt to go so high once the belt reaches the top of the variator that is the speed capabilities of the scooter so the belt size really has no impact on speed. If you want to go faster you either need to bring up the RPM's, unrestrict the engine or get a racing CDI coil clutch and variator set up with very specific contra Springs, clutch Springs and roller weights or sliders. This is the only way to achieve performance On the 50 CC engines. To get more rpms you would need to install a big boar kit Or unrestrict the engine as I specified already. The 50CC engines are good but they will never go extremely fast however the 150CC GY6 engine can be made to go much faster easily because you can change the rear gear set in the transmission
You’re welcome my friend, and thanks for responding. I’m actually very happy with the 50cc and it’s speed, owning tortoises I guess I’m content with slow and steady but I give them the best and that’s what I’m looking to do with my moped. Bought a case of AMSoil scooter oil after watching your tips video. I’m going to keep watching your videos and possibly do the cvt tuning in the future. Stay healthy and safe. Thanks again SB
@@scottbrodie3071 magnetic drain plugs are actually good to use. they attract metal particles floating around and hold them there until you do the next oil change. most cars have them for that reason.
And you are doing is dealing with beginners you need to specify to the professionals that we can make anything work and the blue CDI I have no trouble at all with the CDI working like exposed to and also adjusting the electronic magnetic pickup pulse is a big important factor that that's the Gap is right between the flywheel and the pickup that goes to the CDI
my chinese gy6 scooter with a 72cc big bore kit lasted for 2 hours of beating without any of the cooling components installed, waste oil in the engine and no exhaust, it heat seizend and after 15 minutes i got it to start again, 1 more hour of hell and then one of the camshaft bearings seized. I changed the camshaft and it sounds like it's dying inside but it still runs
I agree with the Blue CDI box that has the cute lil light on it it's junk. But your your wrong about the orange CDI, Coil and plug combo. It was probably the only modification I have on my 2016 Gator 50-F I can ride me and my wife on it going 45 on a straight stretch man. The orange one has no Rev limiter also has advanced timing so I can wind the engine out like a 2 stroke as long as I do my regular oil changes every 500 to 750 miles and run premium fuel through it it goes good man. Everyone the orange kit at the beginning of this video is a great scooter mod
It has nothing to do with being wrong it has to do with the fact that there are a lot of deceptive fake ones on there that are just stock non performance just with Orange wires. This is the reason why I said avoid buying them if you can and if you choose to purchase from a Reputable place like rolling wrench
I bought two of those orange ign coils. the first one ran questionable. the second one ran, and still runs perfect. those coils can be taken apart and diagnosed so it could have just been an issue with the spark plug cap screwed into the wire or the clip attached to the spark plug end. there is no real quality control when those parts are made.
Definitely agree what you saying I had got a lot of scooters myself and just horrible what I got myself into like I got a four-wheeler the other day too and the oil was muddy oil in it just don't get it it's really easy to change stuff it's not that hard
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Oil is 11 bucks . stick to comedy . You are annoying...last time I ever have to listen to this no hair having. 50cc no driving dude who talks too fucking much.look at his girlyman hands..go on. Look..clean...a good mechanic has a little under his nails .this one does.😂🙄😝🤔😝🙄🤣😂🤑🤙♈
Bruh I have a 2022 icebear maddog 50cc. I just want it to go 30mph an get there in good time. Purchased ncy variator an clutch . I live in a state emissions don't matter so I took off the egr shit an the carb I drilled out the cap for the mixture screw.
I love #4. The best thing that happened to my brother was getting a scooter. He changes the oil in his cars like a complete idiot. He’ll change the oil in a car with 1,500 miles on it just for something to do. He only uses Amsoil. So when he learned that he should change his scooter oil about every 600 mi., it was like a revelation. It takes ten minutes. It costs eight bucks. And he can do it every month and not feel like a complete idiot. For normal people, every 500 miles is what I recommend. It’s eight bucks.
Oil change is cheaper than an engine. People forget this often
wow. I change my car's oil every 3000 like they used to recommend in the old days. I never have engine trouble. your brother is smart. theoretically, you can change your oil every time you use the vehicle. when it's your vehicle, it's your choice. oil is cheap.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 oil IS cheap, but some people are cheaper than oil.
@@speedokoterefinishnetwork4937 And these engines dont even need expensive oil, just oil with right specs and change often!
10,000 miles on the tao tao i blew a ring no compression going to go 80cc upgrade but NOT FOR TOP SPEED! i dont WANT to go 50mph on 10 inch tires but getting up to 35 more quickly is a safety issue and thats what i want from the big bore upgrade i ride in short hops and dont WANG it often its a country cruiser i appreciate your take on the whole thing excellent stuff
I loved this and agree with everything he said .i got over 4000 miles on my gy6 its just as fast as ever ....i change my oil once a week .these lil engines get dirty quick
oil is cheap.
Once a week?!?!?!?!?!?!?!
You're one hundred percent right I went through that phase trying everything from Big Bore kits to performance CDI in the best thing you can do is lose weight Victoza I found to be the best performance item for your scooter I lost 30 lb and it's like the damn thing's turbocharged and there a whole lot more reliable and longer-lasting you save money out the ying yang
Lighter variator weights really made a huge difference on my scooter. It went from max speed of 30 MPH to 45 MPH. This one mod allowed the engine to actually get into it's power curve. I was impressed.
Mine were worn flat on every side, wot at 10k rpm to going to 6.5 g rollers and wot 7500 and a 13mph increase so yeah I can see that. I just but a bbk 100cc on and it didn't do much more
@@Manwichman the 100cc kit won't feel like much more without increasing air/fuel. Have you upgraded your carb, air intake, exhaust and so on? You wont get any faster than what your final gear will allow but you should feel a heck of a lot more pull out of the 100cc......I would think. But if it's still breathing through a straw with a gas trickle with jets that typically leave the bikes running a little lean to start with, you probably wouldn't notice much if anything
@@vamountainman2512
Wow, you just answered a question that has been on my mind for 2 or 3 years now thank you so much I had to do with getting the 100cc big bore kit and not changing anything else on it like the air flow keeping it factory and whatnot, the toque would feel like it was throwing me all around off the start and then it would feel like it was in first gear when you came up to a light, you had to keep the throttle going right up till you get to the light no coasting or you would end up coming to a quick stop. Thank you so much
What is a light variator I ride a 59 cc dongfang I need more speed .I'm eventually going to bore it out.
Let's be clear about this, Scooters are designed to only run up to a certain RPM all these people modifine and getting more speed are because they're pushing their engine to its absolute maximum capabilities which means the longevity of the life of the engine is going to go downhill really quickly. CVT tuning is great If you've already done a big bore kit but if you're doing it on a stock engine Yes you will gain more speed but at the cost of trash in the engine really early. I do not suggest enhancing stock engines with CVT tuning unless you have a really good idea of what you're doing.
You have helped me with understanding more stuff about my scooter hopefully you do more tips and videos about them
I make tons of videos about motorcycles and scooters
Man a swear I felt like you were talking directly to me and here the thing I've done all these things with no better results but I did change my oil consistently
Love you dude
Just being honest with everyone man that's the only way I roll here.
To add to the 'CHANGE YOUR OIL !' bit, that includes the final drive oil too. Maybe not every thousand miles, but certainly every two or three thousand. And use a good quality gear oil suitable for your local conditions, ie- if you have 30+ Deg days all the time don't use a 75W90 oil, go for maybe an 85W110. Fact is the primary gear bearings/cogs often run at 2-3 x the speed of the engine itself so the gear oil gets 'chopped up' pretty quickly.
I put different roller weights, bigger air filter, 90 main jet for the carb, bigger muffler, all the gimic racing wire, cdi box "the orange one", spark plug. Learning how to do the timing i feel was huge. The knowledge you can attain from youtube us crazy! Im not sure how fast it goes it toos the speedo out and i can go a little faster if i dont hit red lights.
Nice work!
Mann I relate to this big time because I went through a little trouble with my BMS Chelsea 150cc , all I did after the trouble, I replaced the carburetor all air and fuel hose , replaced the exhaust and a better quality spark plug and the rest is bone stock. I’m 6ft 230lbs and my scoot runs and pulls my weight no problem and I keep up with the flow of the vehicles on the road, oh and another thing , little by little I changed to all led lights, levers , better belt, and loctite on all nuts and bolts, So far it’s been reliable along with its regular maintenance 🤘😎👌🛵🏍️💯
I just add a racing sticker to it for an extra 5hp 😂😂
Thanks for your content. One has officially converted to the Gy6 Nation!🤘🏽🔥🔥🔥
What can I do that's simple to do to make my Taizhou zhongneng 4 stroke moped faster
I thought that the Chinese gy6 moped were made to be 72cc and dumbed down for US specifications and emissions. ... So installing an 80cc big bore is ok. But a 100cc big bore rode full throttle would guarantee future crank shaft failure. I've been riding my 80cc for almost 2 years. I ride heavy weight for slower take off but has great top speed for highway riding. I have been up to 55mph but now it is a steady 49-51 mph. Thank you for the info.
I know a guy who did big bore and ran into carb issues. the carb couldn't keep up essentially.
@@edwardjames6070 did he up jet the carb?
Yo Dan love this video man hands down agree with #1 DONT DO IT!!! “Performance CDI’s & coils” absolutely are worse for ANY build
They simply make ANY bike run WORSE. No argument.
#2 Big Bore Kits are a must for better performance but only IF you give it a proper higher amount of fuel/air/exhaust to be able to run it at a bigger CC.
It’s absolutely necessary.
No full throttle for long periods of time but you absolutely should do one for more speed BUT you NEED to proper parts to be able to run a BBK safely.
But a BBK is definitely worth it as long as you don’t slap a kit on a stock everything scoot, no bueno.
#3,4,5
Spot on.
Very good advice you think it would be common sense with the oil but good to remind the hard headed & lazy lol
Too many lights even WITH a bigger battery (which is necessary to run extra lights)
Not too many. You’ll kill your electronics.
Keep doing what your doing, I know I’m late to the video but I love it. I’m just here to support big bore kit with proper installation, upgraded Part support and use.
And all will be well, I have the same super cheap Chinese big bore kit for three years zero issues and I even have a stock crank with stock bearings and seals. Maintenance and supporting parts go a long way
On #5 one key note:
Consider using the highest film strength oil viscosity & quality:
Like Full Synthetic V-Twin 20/50
(Made for Air Cooled Harleys).
I believe offered by Valvoline, Mobil 1 & Supertech (Wal-Mart Quality House Brand).
My Burgman 400 Maxi Scooter loves the 20/50 Full Synthetic V-Twin oil.
Even though it's water cooled, the thicker film strength is great to deal with the uber high summer temperatures in the South.
Your Air Cooled GY6 will love it too.
Pro tip:
Allow 2-3 minutes - more is great - of warming up engine & oil.
This will help in every respect for engine longevity & minimize oil consumption.
I have a CFMoto Papio - 126cc air-cooled. CFMoto recommends synthetic 10w-40 every 600 miles. My wife has a Piaggio Liberty 150cc I-Get. I use synthetic 20w-50 as recommended every 600 miles. Do you think the Papio would do better on 20W-50???
@@garyfegal8963
Yes Sir, it could hurt nothing & help it to run better / last longer.
Only minor negative might be a 5% drop in mpg.
A tiny tradeoff for engine durability.
Now, climate matters. In the Artic Circle / Alaska go 10/40.
Here in Southern hot climates, (anything below South Dakota lol) go 20/50, Full Synthetic.
PS on the Piaggio, does it have filter or screen ?
600 miles on Full Synthetic oil is an excessively short interval, to me.
The oil lasts MUCH longer than that, as long as kept clean filtered.
Mobil 1 did a test ran a BMW night & day for 100,000 miles same oil, but continuously filtered & then test analyized it.
The oil didn't wear out at all.
Amsoil did a similar test in the early 80s and same result.
We only change syn cause it gets dirty & full of contamination.
That's why I'll change my filter oil, but run the oil longer.
@@psalm2forliberty577 Yes full filter on the Piaggio and the recommendation is still every 1000k\600m. On the Papio is every 5000k/3000m and that has a full filter too. I always believed what your saying. I asked the dealer and the mechanic said the high revving engine wears the oil out. Sure. We are up here in PA and we don't really ride at all in very cold weather. As far as our bigger bikes I change oil and filter once a year as we are only putting a few thousand miles each during riding season. I already put 20W/50 in the Piaggio, full sythentic so I will put that in the CF moto also. Thank you!
Piaggio use filter so not so frequent Chinese they use a shitty basket
big bore update got the kit wrist pin too long trimmed it down it all went toogether fine like yer videos and HELL YEA im getting up to 35 in a jiffy EXACTLY what i wanted shes a beast now thanks for the extreamly helpful videos
Good tip with the taotao or any other carburetor scooter-add a cap full of seafoam each time you gas up. Keeps the jets clean and the bike running smooth.
Big bore, a-12 cam, bigger carb , roller weights, exhaust, clutch spring, race coil, mush room air filter, more spark + more air in air out +more fuel, and more teeth for final drive. Please visit Thailand, we do all the motorbike mod and they are all good stuff.😂
This video is pure gold advice
So true don't modify them or wide open for the whole time your on it
Have a '16 Peace Sports 50cc Renegade. Got it right off the sales floor with .8 km on the clock. Top speed was 28 mph. Kept breaking belts every 20-50 miles. New clutch and variator and belts go 1000+. Popped in a 80cc big bore and getting 42-45 mph. You do have a lot of homework to find the right valve clearance, mine seems good at .004 both valves. I had to replace the CDI as a hole burned out the side on original 50 head, replaced with a stock unit. No problems as of yet on the upgrade. Using full synthetic oil every 800 +/- miles, change the brake and gear fluid every other oil change. No crazy do dads added except for a bigger tail box and front rack. A 12v adapter for phone charging when camping.
The oil and cdi spark plug mod advice is spot on but I ran my 150cc’s for years with no exhaust at all full throttle never had any engine issues just normal maintenance. Mopeds mods are cheap and easy to get more speed change your tooth size in your clutch for 22 dollars and change your rollers bc they matter a lot. Good fuel and carburetor would be next with the right jets. Big bore kits work well if done correctly the problem is all the knock of Chinese kits that aren’t actually 100cc kits. Drop in 100cc kits for 50cc moped don’t exist it’s really a 80cc. Using ball bearing grease in your wheel bearings helps alot it’s not called for but it helps.
Agree with you on most everything you said as fore the big bore kits the worst thing people can do when installing one of them is use the stock head yes it makes a lot of compression and alot of power but for a very short time they end up blowing the top ring land off the piston why it's like adding a turbo charger with tight ring gaps the most I ever got out of a big bore was 45 wide open no good for the most part the only reason I ever installed a big bore kit was for hill climbing power not speed and like you said the high performance parts are all trash
Can't agree more! Plus 35 years wrenching around with a formal "mechanical" education to go along.
As a general rule of thumb all my stock scooters (and motorbikes now that we mention it).
Have been extremely reliable and surprise, surprise amazingly decent performers!
The trick: Really decent maintenance regime! That's it.
The chaps at the club were always amazed. How come the guy with a pretty much, bone stock scooter goes faster. Than theirs with expensive "miracle" parts. Dumped into the mix without a clue... I lost count of the "amazing" sporty air filters, CDI's and other miracle parts that I left behind my OEM thing! ;-)
Did I mention inexpensive to maintain and reliable! ;-)
This guy gets it
I used to frequent moped army and most of the members there would brag about the expensive solvent they used to clean their carb and the expensive stuff they used and bought to make their vehicle pretty and faster. you couldn't disagree with them or they would get ugly. they didn't have a clue how to de-carbonize an engine. they would drive it until they needed to replace a piston and/or cylinder. you couldn't tell them anything. they spend more on the moped hobby than it costs to have and use a car.
Here in the UK its mostly kids who ride scooters, we call them Mopeds, at 16 you take something called a CBT (compulsory basic training) which allows you to ride 50cc, for most it's the earliest chance to get on the road, at 17 they can get a 125cc and at 18 take a full bike license. I understand why they want to upgrade the bikes, here in the UK they come electronically and mechanically restricted to 29MPH going uphill you'd be lucky to keep it at 25mph, they suck big time, if you upgrade the bike to a higher CC without updating your insurance you can get fined/lose your license, you have to undo some of those MODS before the bike has its annual MOT because of emissions tests and if caught by police riding a unrestricted bike on a CBT license you will have the bike taken away and crushed and you will lose your license. The reason you can buy mopeds in the UK for around £200 is because someone has usually taken off all the restrictions, thrashed it and now its due an MOT witch it'll fail. I am saying all this for the UK fans who are young and don't uunderstand the bikes are limited because you only have basic road training! Most common upgrade here is removing the variator ring and either upgrading the carb or modding the stock carb.. these are pretty harmless but again unless you are able to take away the other restrictions you're just adding a couple MPH at best, also changing oil as he said it vital, you'll see a big improvement on the bikes performance if you just change the oil, clean the carbs.
Thank you. I tend to check out everything before I buy it or try it. I was thinking of doing the big bore thing and have heard plusses and minuses. It's good to hear from a mechanic.
I'm glad my video helped
@@IFixShet Just out of curiosity, is a 50cc bike a good idea at all in a city full of hills? I live in a city in Tennessee that only has uphill or downhill, or possibly up the mountain. There is no flat space unless it's artificially made. That's why I was considering the big bore kit. I love this scooter, it's a trooper and I use it for everything, but I wonder if I'm going to burn it out on the hills.
@@Hollylivengood So as with any engine putting extra wear and tear on it with hills or grades definitely will impact the longevity of the life of the engine. I standard 50 CC Should be able to take on some decent grades. If you find that you still don't think you have enough power for the hills you can always Put lighter weight rollers in your clutch So that you have a higher RPM for the hills But you will lose some top end speed by doing this.
@IFixShet Oh speed has never been a huge thought for me. I just drive in the slow lane and everyone is welcome to pass. I do use the bike for everything though. I made sadle bags for the groceries, a carrier for my dog that hooks nicely on to three hooks on the front an the seat. Once strpped a bunch of lumber on the back rack and drove down Hixson Pike with that, a kid hung out the window of a pickup truck to get a pic of it. So far, the scooter has been tolerant.
Were was this video when I needed it😂. I’ll admit burnt through 4 of these things. Made the stupid mistake of full throttle since they were my primary vehicles and the upgrade fad. Now I have bikes. Now since I finally have seen this commonsensical video I will be getting them again but upgraded with common sense😂❤
leave early. don't overtax your vehicle.
Big bore kit is fine , you need to rejet
Thanks for sharing that.... But, can a Chinese 50cc scooter be reliable if you really take care of it. Really baby it? .........Keep up the good work on the UA-cam.
Mine is great stock with valve adjustment every 1000 miles and gear oil and engine oil every 1000 it's great
🤣🤣 You're hilarious 😂 I am new to the GY6 riding. So seeing this video has educated me on the how to treat her every time we ride... I shall always be gentle as she will never ride me...😁 I liked and subscribed to your channel.
Older video but still relevant now you've joined the winning team
I know this is an old video but thanks for the info and honesty
No problem
I just bought a 50cc scooter that’s 2 months old.
It performs better than my last older 50cc but it does struggle on some inclines to maintain 30mph, although the engine is never revving real high so I don’t see how full throttle will hurt it unless you are going 35+ and revving it high.
I’m big on changing the oil on everything I got and I probably over do it but hey it’s cheap so why not.
I was looking at the big bore kits and I love the idea of having the extra torque, I don’t need to go super fast but having more get up and go would be great!
I hadn’t thought about the overheating like you mentioned and I can see that possibility but I’m thinking if I’m not revving the crap out of it it may be just fine.
Thoughts?
I have a few tricks to help with the losing RPM on Hills however it is very prominent on 50cc to lose potential on top end when going up an incline. They're not meant to be ballistic missiles by any means they're just little grocery Getters designed to go 7 to 10 Mi away from your house. Think about it this way the only cooling system on it is a fan and these engines run hot the little 50cc's are good for around 10 Mi before you should give them a break. Anything beyond that without letting it slightly cool off first you're just risking burning up the piston especially if you live in a hotter state. Think about it this way the average 50cc Chinese scooter engine only lasts around 10,000 to 15,000 mi if you're lucky and that's well maintained. It is rare that they make it over these numbers before they have catastrophic engine failure so the more polite you are to your scooter the longer it will last. If you compare the price of a Chinese scooter which cost around $1,600 if you buy it from a dealership and then you look at what a Honda or Yamaha or Suzuki cost a couple hundred dollars more you may as well just buy a reputable brand they are known to go 50 to 100,000 miles before having serious engine problems. I have a few tips and trick videos on how to gain RPM for hill climbs if you're interested just let me know and yes it will require some CVT case tuning and a little knowledge on your part
I got the orange CDI box that you showed at the beginning of this video in the top left-hand corner for my TaoTao pony it works great I get up to 42 mi an hour since I put it in I try not to go that fast but it's nice to have the ability
As I specified in the video some of the orange ones are fake and some are real however they don't really do much even if they are real they're not really helpful in any kind of way
Hi Dan very good wisdom I never understood why people don't change their oil especially in a motorcycle or scooter 🛵
I've been guilty of that. replaced an engine because of it.
Thanks man, I did some upgrades (carb and air filter cone) and it has a hard time staying running (only has about 300 miles on it). Going back to stock! :)
Honest strait up dude... Thanks!
For us that's been riding mopeds for well ever!!! like I have LOL all of these are one-hundred-percent common sense facts so do yourself a favor and listen to this guy because I promise you he knows what he's talking about lol always use stock!!!
Big bore kits bend conrods.the roller seat for contra spring is good and the slider weights.stock contra spring 1000 rpm or stock.ive gone 67mph with stock contra.and 63 with the blue one.this is on my vino 125.im going faster than gy6.And plug coil to eliminate spark plug wire..I put a 4 mm over piston kit.alotmof torque but it havnt tuned for high speed.i bought a slide carb and parked it.its a 143cc engine if it does 70 to 74 nph.with good take off I will be happy and burn those gy6 150
Although a 171 kit I will like on another scooter
I completely agree with all of his points. I stayed away from the CDIs, coils, and other cheap “race parts”.
I did install a big bore, HOWEVER, I went through the entire top end with a fine touch, removed all rough edges from the piston skirt, polished the piston crown, verified the correct gap on the piston rings, inspected every inch of the bore.
I also installed a big valve head and cam and used the same fine touch there as well. I disassembled the new head and lapped the valves, cleaned up the ports and polished the combustion chamber and ensured I set the valve lash perfectly.
I’ve been running this setup for 2,500+ miles at full throttle 24/7 every time I ride it.
I have a ton of other time and parts invested into mine, always using the same fine touch performance technique I learned across the years. And have not had a single problem. It really depends on your skill level and how much of your time you want to invest. My 80cc scoot is faster off the line and faster to top speed than a stock 150cc. HOWEVER if I spent the same amount of money and time into a 150cc it would be a monster, food for thought. 😅
You are an individual that understands how to properly run a big bore kit and what is necessary to make it work perfectly
@scooterman7098 I think if you rewatch it you'll see that I say unless you know what you're doing and understand throttle control.... I love it when you guys come along and then try to weasel things to fit your agenda. Maybe you should try watching it again I'm pretty sure I was very clear about a Big Bore Kit
@scooterman7098 the takeaway from this was if you don't know what you're doing don't mess with it but what you heard was don't do it at all no matter what...
@@IFixShet damn what did he say? The comments are gone.
hey brother just want to let u know ur the best ur Videos help me out so much I highly appreciate you
Thanks man
Mine is a Chinese my moped 🏍 i’ve never had any problems with it is due for an oil change as I’ve done 2000 miles on it My scooter is D restricted I will happily go 55 but I never put it use Throttle Most the timer to 30 miles an hour unless I’m down the road that requires me to go 40
You got lucky but you also have low mileage
The average Chinese scooter engine only makes it to eight to 12 thousand miles and that's with proper oil changes if you're lucky you get beyond that before the scooter engine Burns Out
Thanks man. Very Sound information 👍
Good Video, I do a bit of what you do also, yea, I think most of these parts are gimiky, and what I have noticed is that a certain part may give one bike a boost and that same part in another bike wont, or may not even work at all,,,,its all about finding the right setup for your specific bike
each part has to work.
Well said people do listen to strait talk 😊
Im one of those crazy dudes who done almost everything on my little scooter. Spent tons of my money just for fun, and because I like the building. I am the kind that knows what im doing (most of the time) so i didnt expect it to go fast. And it dont! But it is seriously stronger uphill and of course acceleration is way better. Im happy with that, its fun!
And probably someone will ask what i have done so ill list it right away:
82cc (50mm) cylinder, good one, not cheap china crap. New quality crank and bearings. Head with bigger valves, NCY cam, 24 mm intake + carb, Polini filter. Tecnigas silent pro exhaust. Polini variator, belt and clutch. Stage 6 17/51 gear kit. It goes 45mph and dont rev much there.
GET UR DONE Tell it like it is and your right.
Always do
Love your videos. Especially the ones on scooter repair. I was thinking of adding a small 30W fog light and one of those eBay security systems to my 150cc scooter. Do you think that would overload my electrical system?
@dlfynrdr the easiest thing to do is to hook the lights up while the scooter is running put your multimeter on the battery and watch the voltage draw at idle. The battery should be over 13 volts charging at idle and it should be fluctuating if it's falling below 13 volts then I wouldn't install the lights
@IFixShet Cool. I'll do that. Thanks for the advice. What's your opinion on those ebay scooter alarms with the cutoff features? I've heard varying opinions on those things. I'm ultra paranoid about security on my next scooter. The last three I had were stolen right out of my front yard.
I agree with you with everything but you need to specify professionals only mechanical experience because these high performance kits do work scientifically I'm really into high performance and doing a lot of crazy sit with these scooters for the last 15 years but I do agree with you to a certain point but you need to specify cuz most of these guys are beginners they don't know what they're doing
I did specify that if you don't know what you're doing don't mess with it. Just like a big bore kit if you don't know how to use it properly then don't do it at all.
I switched all my lights and turn signals to low voltage LEDs and installed one beefy LED head light, and a USB I do change my oil once a month because I ride everywhere, and I've found the variator upgrades and the stator upgrade to be a massive help but I stay around 30 MPH I got it for the 100 mpg not the 100 mph, if I need to do 55 mpg I have a truck that gets 15 mpg
I wish you were closer to Easton,Pa.
I want to get either a 50cc or a 150cc. I will be a new rider,never driven a motorcycle before.
I am 5 feet 6 inches tall about 185lbs so not sure if a 150cc or 200cc would be too much for me?
Just wish I could find a place near me or online that doesn't charge ya $399 for shipping and what ever it may cost to have it fully assembled and ready to ride once ya get it.
I also have no idea what might be a decent reliable 50cc or 150cc Scooter.
I have been looking at the Vitacci SPARK 150cc and the Vitacci Clash 200cc EFI Scooter and the X-PRO Maui 50cc,not sure if they a good quality or not or if they have a bad rap.
I know you have to change the Oil every so many miles but what about for example brake fluid,or any other fluids if any.
Oh can't forget the blinker fluid........ :P LOL.
Love the honesty. Bought a 250 super R. Changed oil 3x because in a day the crank os full of gas. Checked the needle and cleaned. Had 6m on odometer now it's at 300 and I am trying to figure out why this keeps happening. Any ideas ? I have been riding full throttle alot
Well there's only a couple reasons why you would get gas in your oil. Low compression causing Blow by, float height not set correctly allowing extra fuel to fill the cylinder that isn't burning off and it's being pushed into the oil sump, or is sticking float continuing to allow gas to pour into the cylinder while it's not running this would also mean that you have a vacuum problem
@@IFixShet so I drained oil again and installed a new carb 300 miles later no issues so dispite adjusting the needle I think the actual hole it sits in was bad as the new carburetor is bigger so I had to get a bigger intake but sooo much better now just have to adjust it to get the max throttle but 3 quarter of full I can hit 65 now
Back when I was 25 (1981), I had a Honda Hobbit and top speed was 20 mph. I rode that thing everywhere I could. Winter time was a killer, rain was a killer, Halloween was a real killer (couldn't outrun flying eggs) too. Speed wasn't a thing back then, just getting from point A to point B and back again. There was NO upgrade to that moped that I knew of.
Now, today is a whole new game, I'm an ole man now and speed still isn't a thing with me, 25-30 mph is OK. But my reaction time isn't what it used to be, so buying a scooter isn't on the top of my list, even though I'd really like to have one. I don't see a whole lot of geezers around riddin em, mostly younger people. I call em liquor cycles (may not of spelled it rite). I live in what I call the country now.
💯, I switched to 150 CC I had the big board kit and all that that you mentioned I did have all does problems, but I switched it to 150CC and it stopped but you're right,i didn't miss the engine just the muffler and carb, bro im 200 i hit 70,but im ok ok with my bike 100.
Tbh just get a 70 2 stroke will shit on your 150 4 stroke top speed wise and acceleration mine does 70mph gps en gets there pretty fast and is still reliable im on 20k km with no major issues
🫡 Newbie here. Ill take your word for it buddy. Thx for your expertise.👍🏽
Awesome!
I'm a mechanic I'm all about cooling my engine down and always change my oil
i´ve always driven my 50cc scooters full throttle and have not had any problems with engines in 25 years.. i would say that is something like 40-50 thousand kilometers..
here in finland the standard way of restricting the speed on mopeds is to restrict the variator so that everyone and their dog drives max revs 100% of the time and there has not been any problems with engines lasting less here than anywhere else. people would talk about it if it would be a problem but it just isn´t. people even modify the cdi box for more revs and even then there is no problems with engines lasting. the moped i drive now has been driven about 20 000 k on full revs/gas 99% of the time with zero maintenance to the engine. no oil changes no nothing. and it runs great!
i´m not saying you´re wrong per se but i myself have never ever heard this would be a problem.
I'm referring to Chinese scooters.... most likely what you are riding is not Chinese during the whole time that you've been riding scooters Chinese scooters need to be treated slightly different if you want them to survive any kind of real longevity
Good point. My middle bike was Def Chinese though. A quingqi zoner. But it was 4 stroke so maybe that's why it lasted.
Now I drive a 4t kymco super-8 which is /almost/ Chinese (Taiwanese).
But my first bike was a Aprilia. 2-stroke though.
So you are right. There was a selection..
I love your channel my guy you tell the truth and you funny doing it 😂 saying change your fucking oil classic
Always
Its to the point were you could change the oil after every ride just for the hell of it thats how cheap and easy it is 😅
That some shet, Dan. Looking good chico TG 🙏. 80cc kit on 50cc brakes , a no no. & change the GD oil.
Lol
Yup, if you want to go faster : get a bigger scoot.
Running top rpms only wears the life of the engine out.
Im getting a scooter ...40 and under speed limit for work. 15 minute...something that i can ride 2...my wife and i are about 260 pounds together. 168cc efi 14 inch tires. Im sure ill be here for help so ill thank you ahead of time.
Well I hope I can help in the future
Nice to hear someone calling out the bollocks performance modifications.
Always!
never had any issues with the big bore kits, but ive also returned several kids due to poor piston to cylinder fit.
Techs also know stock cdi box is most effective. Better advance then blue racing cdi. 80cc big bore is as big as I ever go. It's safer to have that little extra changing lanes
You should specify if you don't have mechanical abilities and know what you're dealing with cuz I installed a CDI kits and understand mechanically with the timing and jetting the carburetor is a big issue all the way around between timing and Big bore kits so you're right but you should specify the ginners that have no mechanical ability do not do any of this this is for the professionals only
I bought a 2024 50cc, it go's 58 mph❤ I absolutely love my moped
Nice!
@@IFixShet thanks but now that I seen this video I'm gonna have to slow down 😭
@laurierichey137 When the scooter is new it's not so much of a problem but once you get into 3 and 4,000 miles it's time to back off the throttle a lot
@@IFixShet awesome thank you a million for the advice...
Darn good advice for sure.
all I have is a moped license it started leaking oil and I decided to get it repaired was it be $30 for new gas sits when I realize the motor has to be taken apart to repair each one that's when I decided to upgrade it to the big Bore kit 90cc I don't want it to go faster I need it to have more power to go up hills what's my fat ass so in the future I was planning to do it but since I had to take it apart and get it worked on why not just do it that's the reason I did mine
I actually have a stock 49cc VIP scooter with that blue cdi on it, it runs great & it does 50mph, no problems with timing either.
You got lucky some of them are real some of them are fake if you're going to purchase one buy it from a reputable company
when anyone installs a BBK. you have to replace everything on the Drivetrain. even taller final drive Gears.
Bought 2023 50cc Solana from a ringold Georgia distributor would not cover 1000 mile warranty. 1073 miles two clutch belts new clutch and now flywheel stripped drive shaft. Bottom line cost me one dollar a mile. Paul Lee should start a produce company selling lemons.
All I've done to mine is add some underglow and put some LEDs in the storage compartment on the back just to make sure someone can see me stopping. I'm not doing anything else to the scooter it cruises me and my wife around at 35 mph just fine
And it will continue doing that as long as you don't make too many modifications to it it will be reliable to a point it's still Chinese
7;00 YEAH! it is so much easier than a car, it is on a stand too !
A thousand times easier
My 50cc is very noisy, going in for valve adjustment
Lol, I couldn't stop laughing at the oil part. I didn't change my oil for 6000kms. Still ran fine but I thought it was time. That shiz was the blackest jellyist oil I've ever seen, new oil made it able to Rev higher, been 1000kms since -_-
I just try to be as honest with everyone as I can so they can learn from other people's mistakes
Yessir 😂😂😂 this is awesome and helpful thanks bro!!!
i like this guy
I'm just straightforward
@@IFixShet I've quoted you about engine oil several times already lol. couldn't agree more.
I hope it rubs off on more people
@@IFixShet sure would save more than a few heartbreaks. new cars now can probably tell on people who dont do maintenance. thatd be interesting. Also, I've actually read somewhere "they" are working on vehicles that continuously filter and recyle lubricants. making changing oil obsolete. reduce wastes, or maybe just throw the whole car out in a year?
These things i can prolly learn and enjoy keeping the scoot in tip top
Please do video of how to properly ride a Chinese scooter that has a big bore kit. thx
Only use full throttle every once in a while other than that 3/4 throttle and your engine will last a long time a big bore kit wears out your engine much faster
I sold my snowmobile that required work...and a huge preseason overhaul....we dont get the snow we used to and id rather go vroom every day.
Super..."change your f'''ing oil made me subscibing😂😂
5;37 Thanks for advice , bad habit to red line it. feels better not to.
3/4 throttle most of the ride
great advice 👍
8;18 Had me worried for a second, just have three extra lights, led signal lights on the side to be seen and led running light so cars behind can see the moped it running or stopping also does turn signals.
Just be careful not to install Too Many Lights it will drain the system
To be fair, the scooter *should* be designed to run WoT all the time, but when you get a chinese scooter, who knows if the manufacturer actually cared about things like adequate airflow / cooling, rpm limiting, or other such faff that is standard with scooters designed in other countries.
And that's why we can't be fair with our assessment because it is Chinese based. It's say 7 out of 10 work like they should 3 of those people now because they went wide open throttle burn up their scooters and toast their engine was it worth doing it in the 1st place or even taking the chance?
Hello I like your moped videos and you’re very knowledgeable with mechanical stuff. I just recently bought a 50cc wolf rugby and am hesitant on upgrading it past the magnetic drain bolts versus stock. Do you know if it’s worth getting a longer cvt belt for any performance improvements? Or any tuning to cvt for performance? Is it worth upgrading to better parts in the cvt? Any suggestions are much appreciated thanks SB
Let me try to explain this to the best of my ability 1st of all thank you. To get me started the belt size really does not increase the speedThe variator can only allow the belt to go so high once the belt reaches the top of the variator that is the speed capabilities of the scooter so the belt size really has no impact on speed. If you want to go faster you either need to bring up the RPM's, unrestrict the engine or get a racing CDI coil clutch and variator set up with very specific contra Springs, clutch Springs and roller weights or sliders. This is the only way to achieve performance On the 50 CC engines. To get more rpms you would need to install a big boar kit Or unrestrict the engine as I specified already. The 50CC engines are good but they will never go extremely fast however the 150CC GY6 engine can be made to go much faster easily because you can change the rear gear set in the transmission
You’re welcome my friend, and thanks for responding. I’m actually very happy with the 50cc and it’s speed, owning tortoises I guess I’m content with slow and steady but I give them the best and that’s what I’m looking to do with my moped. Bought a case of AMSoil scooter oil after watching your tips video. I’m going to keep watching your videos and possibly do the cvt tuning in the future. Stay healthy and safe. Thanks again SB
@@scottbrodie3071 magnetic drain plugs are actually good to use. they attract metal particles floating around and hold them there until you do the next oil change. most cars have them for that reason.
And you are doing is dealing with beginners you need to specify to the professionals that we can make anything work and the blue CDI I have no trouble at all with the CDI working like exposed to and also adjusting the electronic magnetic pickup pulse is a big important factor that that's the Gap is right between the flywheel and the pickup that goes to the CDI
my chinese gy6 scooter with a 72cc big bore kit lasted for 2 hours of beating without any of the cooling components installed, waste oil in the engine and no exhaust, it heat seizend and after 15 minutes i got it to start again, 1 more hour of hell and then one of the camshaft bearings seized. I changed the camshaft and it sounds like it's dying inside but it still runs
You got my sub I’m a new rider so this video was great for me bruh
@@doingitbigent cheers I also have an update video this one's pretty old
ua-cam.com/video/LqJ0SgU9Xjg/v-deo.htmlsi=XwsGGbYD6g8qSnYh
I agree with the Blue CDI box that has the cute lil light on it it's junk. But your your wrong about the orange CDI, Coil and plug combo. It was probably the only modification I have on my 2016 Gator 50-F I can ride me and my wife on it going 45 on a straight stretch man. The orange one has no Rev limiter also has advanced timing so I can wind the engine out like a 2 stroke as long as I do my regular oil changes every 500 to 750 miles and run premium fuel through it it goes good man. Everyone the orange kit at the beginning of this video is a great scooter mod
It has nothing to do with being wrong it has to do with the fact that there are a lot of deceptive fake ones on there that are just stock non performance just with Orange wires. This is the reason why I said avoid buying them if you can and if you choose to purchase from a Reputable place like rolling wrench
Post a link for all of us to the one you bought
I bought two of those orange ign coils. the first one ran questionable. the second one ran, and still runs perfect. those coils can be taken apart and diagnosed so it could have just been an issue with the spark plug cap screwed into the wire or the clip attached to the spark plug end. there is no real quality control when those parts are made.
Definitely agree what you saying I had got a lot of scooters myself and just horrible what I got myself into like I got a four-wheeler the other day too and the oil was muddy oil in it just don't get it it's really easy to change stuff it's not that hard
Hi I have never got around to changing my gear box oil for my tao tao pony at 3900 miles can I wait another 1000miles dan
You should change it the moment you purchased the scooter
The guy I bought it used from must have it had only 918 miles on it and never had stalled on me or anything it's amazing
GREAT ADVICE!
Thank you
one of my friends recommended that I use conventional oil, not synthetic 1040, for the first 500 miles to help the engine break in, is this true?
Use synthetic, after the first 300 miles of driving the engine has reached brake in with the break-in oil it is time to make the switch to synthetic
What about a Gates powerlink drive belt I've heard that improves speed without hurting your bike?
I've never really noticed a huge difference with any of the belts unless you're buying Kevlar
Thank you for telling us that
No problem
In my city you literally have to go full throttle all the time because of how angry people get being behind you. Sucks but it is what it is
Thanks for keepin it real, I agree with you on everything. What do you think about a performance carb and exhaust ?
Neither of them can hurt just make sure you properly tune the engine afterwards