Steve Cowles Acoustic I agree with all u stated, but would like to add that maybe more details....some of us viewing are females and don’t know what some of the parts named look like!
This gentleman has all the makings of a great teacher! Very useful video for those of us trying to figure out our electrical problems on our mowers. Thanks so much.
This is a very good video that I used to diagnose why my lawn tractor wasn't starting. Be sure to pay attention to the chart @1:18 when testing the volts of your current battery. To double check that my battery was the problem and not the solenoid or starter, I hooked a pair of jump cables (or a jump start box could work too) to my truck and tried to start the lawnmower. It started right up which reinforced my troubleshooting with the voltmeter that the battery was the culprit.
I had watched many video about my mower not starting - I had the clicking noise. This was the best explanation of how to diagnose the problem. It provided thorough step by step procedure. It was great! Thank you.
Around 3:41, you're hoping for 12+ volts (it shows 12.29 in the video). Or nothing. However, with two different solenoids (one out-of-the-package new), I'm getting readings of 11.5/11.6. Hooked everything up again anyway, but still just get the click. Going to go pound my head against the shed a few times to try to figure out what to do next.
Watch this video to the very end, the simple 'turn the engine' did the trick for me! Motor was jammed up just enough to lock up the starter, once i gave it a turn or two with a large socket, the starter fired the motor right up!!! Thank you sir for your helpful video !!!!
Finally a "how to" video that gives clear instructions and is only as long as it needs to be. All meat and potatoes. Thank you sir, my mower is back in action!
Got excited to troubleshoot my mower. Figured I’d tap the starter with a rubber mallet first before doing all of that. Fired right up. At least I know where to start if it happens again.
This is by far the best video explaining and understanding what could be the issue. I follow all the steps. Everything went good except when I got to see if engine when I get to the part of test for engine seize or starter electrical, go through click and read 1.14 then it drops. The starter try to move and engine/flywheel maybe three seconds and it wont do nothing else. Replace battery, starter solenoid, ignition coil module, spark plug. I have LXT1040 Model#13wx90as056 Kohler engine model#SV590S. Would appreciate all your feedback. Thank you.
Here’s a link for the article and video for an engine that spins but won’t start: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/riding-lawn-mower-engine-spins-but-wont-start-video.html Follow the steps in that article and video to troubleshoot the starting problem because the starter is trying to spin the engine. Here’s some additional troubleshooting advice pertaining to your specific engine: Based on your details, there’s a chance that the ACR (automatic compression release) on the Kohler engine isn’t releasing cylinder compression so the starter can’t spin the engine. Faulty valves could also be preventing the engine from spinning because the valves aren't releasing cylinder compression. Remove the spark plug and try to start the engine with the spark plug removed. Removing the spark plug will release cylinder compression if that's what is preventing the starter from spinning the engine. If the engine spins normally with the spark plug removed when you turn the ignition key to the start position, then you’ll likely need to have a mechanic adjust the valves and/or repair the ACR system.
Your video helped me get an old Scotts tractor running. New battery and it turned over for about 2 seconds. Nothing but clicking. Checked the switch and solenoid and they were working. Tried shorting across the solenoid terminals with a 12 awg solid wire but no luck. Then loosened and retightened all terminals; battery, solenoid and starter. Added a little starter fluid to the air intake and it cranked right up. Just to note.: Some tractors may have safety switches, so make sure they are engaged.
Very good video! Simple and easy to understand. I have used Sears video before to troubleshoot appliances with good results. Just wish Sears was still in business in my area.
Thanks for the simple explanation . I had pulled the starter motor off , reset the magneto, checked the solenoid and checked the battery . What you video did was tell me ALMOST 12 votls is only 25% and not enough to start . New battery . I learnt another valuable lesson. Cheers.
Thank you so much for this!! My problem turned out to be a locked -up engine. My Dad came to troubleshoot with me and he did find, after doing all the tests you described, there was gas in the piston. We discovered this after removing the spark plug and turning over the engine. Gas came shooting out of the spark plug socket and the engine roared to life !! Thank you!
I wonder if that's my parents riding mower problem. When the key is turned there's not one click, there are constant clicks until I stop trying to start it.
TY you have helped me out of fix with my mower many times. You are clear and concise making it easy for me to do the job myself even though never trained or been around fixing mowers or small engines.
Thank you Wayne! Great video! I have a Craftsman ZTS 7500 that I just replaced the starter solenoid and circuit breaker (breaker didn't pass continuity test). I am only getting 7 v to the two tabs of the starter solenoid when I turn the key to start. The new solenoid is clicking like it is supposed to but the mower still won't crank. Battery is showing 12.6-12.8 v and holding that charge for days so my battery is good. The starter will try and the engine will turn if I jump the solenoid with my jump pack, but it still won't turn over at all when using the key. I have not tested any further beyond the solenoid as I got stumped with the 7 v coming from to the solenoid blades/tabs. I thought it had to be 12 v. I'm thinking I either have a) not enough juice to the solenoid (and don't know where to look to determine why), b) a bad/weak starter or c) a bad ignition switch that has too much resistance or a bad safety switch somewhere (Seat and 2 arm safety switches passed continuity tests when triggered). Suggestions?
Some of those models of Craftsman riding mowers had battery ground leads that were connected to painted surfaces on the frame so the battery wasn’t making a good ground connection, resulting in intermittent starting problems. Find the connection of the black battery lead to the frame or engine block. If the black lead is connected to a painted surface, disconnect the leads from the battery and then disconnect the black lead from its ground connection on the frame or engine block. Sand off paint and clean the ground connection point to remove any resistance to the battery ground. Reconnect the black battery lead to the ground connection then reconnect the leads to the battery. If this tip doesn’t help or the battery is already connected to a good ground on the frame or engine block, then check the ground wire that connects to the bottom relay tab on the solenoid as shown at 5:27 in this video: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/riding-lawn-mower-wont-turn-over-or-click-video.html. A bad ground connection through that wire could cause low voltage through the solenoid relay. Repair the ground wire connection for the solenoid relay if it’s bad. If the ground wire connection on the solenoid relay is okay, bad wiring or a faulty component in the circuit between the battery and the positive solenoid terminal tab is likely causing the meter to measure only 7 volts at the solenoid relay. Before you check that circuit, we recommend that you check voltage on the output post of the starter solenoid when the solenoid clicks as shown at 3:06 in this video that you posted your question on. If you’re not measuring 12.6-12.8 volts on that solenoid output post when the solenoid clicks, then check voltage at the input post of the solenoid (where the red cable is connected) as shown in the video. If the meter doesn’t measure 12.6-12.8 volts on the input post, follow the troubleshooting tips to clean the battery terminals or replace the red battery cable because it isn’t carrying enough current to the solenoid and the starter motor to spin the starter motor. If your meter measures 12.6-12.8 volts at the input post of the solenoid but not at the output post of the solenoid when the relay clicks, then the 7 volts going through the solenoid relay likely isn’t closing the solenoid contact. You’ll need to check the circuit between the battery and the positive solenoid relay post to find the cause of the voltage drop. We hope these tips help you figure out the cause of the starting problem in your riding mower. If you need more help, send us details about the results of the recommended troubleshooting and let us know the model number of your Craftsman ZTS 7500 mower. You can likely find the full model number of the mower under the seat.
Measuring battery “volts” is not enough to determine if the battery is still good. Mine had enough volts so I spent 3 hours trouble shooting more components according to this video and my mower still would not start. I replaced the battery and it started right up and now starts great. That being said, this is a great video, just know the battery may still be bad even if it shows enough volts.
Yes. Here's a link for a webpage that has the written version: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/riding-lawn-mower-engine-clicks-but-doesnt-turn-over-video
Nice video. This covers all the components that could break. Luckily for me the problem ended up being the battery terminals. After I cleaned them I was able to start the engine.
@2:49 - The solenoid doesn't click at this step but the voltage goes from 0 to 9.7. Does this mean the solenoid needs to replaced. Additional question. I accidentally bridged the gap between the positive and negative on the solenoid and I could hear the start motor spin so I tried it again to see if the motor would start but the starter sounded like it was spinning but wouldn't start. Does this tell me anything useful or was I right that the solenoid is not working and needs to be replaced and that is the issue?
I forgot to step on the clutch before starting my Troy Bilt Pony mower. Now it won’t start. It had turned on just a minute ago without any issues when I stepped on the clutch. The engine does not crank, but just a click that I can hear from the starter solenoid when trying to start it. The engine fan barely spins when turning it on, but I was able to rotate it when I took the cover off the engine. Spark plug did not have much carbon build up & just did an oil change recently. Any suggestions?
Nice job, very much to the point. I was wondering, how often are the cable going from the solenoid to the starter bad? Also you never mentioned the ignition (starter) switch. I suppose it's bad if you have a good battery and you don't get a click when you turn the key to start? I found a spark plug wire arcing out to the frame and eliminated one problem after fixing it. Thank you.
The cable going from the solenoid to the starter doesn't go bad that often if you store the mower indoors. If the mower is constantly exposed to the elements, that cable has a better chance of going bad after a few years of use. We show how to test the ignition switch at 8:30 in the video. Here's a link for a webpage that includes the written version of the video in case you need it: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/riding-lawn-mower-engine-wont-turn-over-or-click-video . We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
great video. I do have a question though. a battery can have the right voltage but when under load it doesn't have the amps to turn the motor. how do we test for that?
Great video. Well produced and narrated. Question: I have a 2001 Craftsman LT1000. When I turn the key all I get is a clicking noise. Immediately before it stopped running, it would start roughly. I'd turn the key, it would slip a bit then start. This happened 2-3x before it stopped starting. Seconds after it wouldn't start I removed the oil filler cap and some light smoke came out of the filler. I've trouble checked it based on your video. Will the flywheel of a seized engine move at all? I can get the flywheel to move 3-4 inches in one direction and a bit less than that in the other direction, BUT, the flywheel is very tight and i really have to torque my wrench in order to get it to move. Help!
If the mower has a single-cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine, check to see if the engine spins when you remove the spark plug. If it does, then the compression release cam could be broken and not releasing cylinder compression.
I’m using a multimeter and have determined that there is full charge on the battery and also on the red post on the solenoid. The black post on the solenoid, however, is showing approximately 6.3 volts when I turn the ignition key and hear the solenoid click. So, it’s getting approximately half the voltage it should be getting. According to your video, if the voltage were at (or possibly very near) zero, I could determine that the solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced. But, what might the culprit be in this situation? Thank you.
As a follow-up, I have replaced the battery, the starter solenoid, and the starter motor. The engine spins freely, which I checked prior to replacing both the solenoid and the starter motor. And yet, there is a single click from the solenoid when I turn the ignition key. The multimeter shows everything from the battery to the starter motor to be functioning correctly. Very frustrated at this point. Can a faulty safety switch, such as the plunger interlock switch, cause the solenoid to click when turning the ignition key? I know next to nothing about safety switches and I’m pretty much out of ideas.
Thanks, I heard the clicking so I thought it might be a bad starter. Good thing I tested the wires. The post on the solenoid on the battery side was corroded so took some sand paper to it now it fires right up. Thanks for the video.
You shouldn't need to strain when moving the ratchet handle to spin the engine. If your mower has a single-cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine, try removing the spark plug and spinning the engine. If the engine spins easier with the spark plug removed, then the compression release on the valve cam could be broken.
This is how all how-to videos should be produced. Excellent job, Sir.
Wayne is the man
Seriously, direct to the point and covers key things. A+ video
That Gentleman made the best how-to video I have ever seen. Simple and decisive directions. Please have him make more!
Seriously!
Hear hear!
Completely agree.
100% agree
That dudes a beast, great step by step without getting too much into the weeds
Perfect Video! No Stories , dogs, music distracting viewers. Lol.
Very Clear and Specific. Great Job. Thanks Very Much.
Steve Cowles Acoustic I agree with all u stated, but would like to add that maybe more details....some of us viewing are females and don’t know what some of the parts named look like!
This gentleman has all the makings of a great teacher! Very useful video for those of us trying to figure out our electrical problems on our mowers. Thanks so much.
Great troubleshoot video. Simple, straight forward, with no extra BS. Thank you for the video.
This is a very good video that I used to diagnose why my lawn tractor wasn't starting. Be sure to pay attention to the chart @1:18 when testing the volts of your current battery. To double check that my battery was the problem and not the solenoid or starter, I hooked a pair of jump cables (or a jump start box could work too) to my truck and tried to start the lawnmower. It started right up which reinforced my troubleshooting with the voltmeter that the battery was the culprit.
I've got the click but no crank issue and will be diagnosing the problem tomorrow, thanks to Wayne's clear and concise instructions. Thanks!
Outstanding instructional video! Give Wayne a raise.
One of the most thorough repair videos I have seen. Very well done sir.
Codester 87 I have to agree.glad to find this video.this guys bad ass
This is the kind of guy I trust giving me engine advise
Finally somebody with straight to the point help!! Best video !!
one of the best explanations of how to repair, to Riding Lawn Mower fast and to the point ... Thanks
Yeah, hopefully just need 2 charge battery
I had watched many video about my mower not starting - I had the clicking noise. This was the best explanation of how to diagnose the problem. It provided thorough step by step procedure. It was great! Thank you.
concise and to the point covering all the steps in order - Great video
Definitely the best 'How To" video on a lawnmower issue I have ever seen. Thanks!!!
Thanks for the comment. We're glad to hear that you liked our video.
Absolutely excellent. Clear and concise. Love this man's videos!!
Around 3:41, you're hoping for 12+ volts (it shows 12.29 in the video). Or nothing. However, with two different solenoids (one out-of-the-package new), I'm getting readings of 11.5/11.6. Hooked everything up again anyway, but still just get the click. Going to go pound my head against the shed a few times to try to figure out what to do next.
Watch this video to the very end, the simple 'turn the engine' did the trick for me! Motor was jammed up just enough to lock up the starter, once i gave it a turn or two with a large socket, the starter fired the motor right up!!! Thank you sir for your helpful video !!!!
This is a great little video. Perfect to help me get my mower sorted fingers crossed. Thank you
Finally a "how to" video that gives clear instructions and is only as long as it needs to be. All meat and potatoes. Thank you sir, my mower is back in action!
I wish I could give this guy 2 thumbs up 👍🏼👍🏼
In my book, you just did! Thanks!
This video is so helpful for ladies that do their own yard work!❤❤❤❤❤
Totally agree, this is a fine example of a how to video.
Best help video out there, to the point...a big help. Thanks for posting!
Great diagnostic strategy. I love it. It helped me to trace out the source of the problem. Great work. I hope you do more of this.
Thanks Wayne, love your classes. No hem hawing around, good pics and thorough.
Excellent video, exactly what I was looking for to help me with repairing my 50 inch zero turn troybilt.
We just started selling lawnmower's at our work.this will be helpful because this is a new venture for the RV shop I work for
For the life of me, I can't figure out why ~200 people would down-vote this video. It was excellent!
JUST TO BE A JERK
@@GARYMAX1313 200 angry lawn mower service repair men
Thank you! It turned out to be the starter motor, diagnosed just as described. Great video!
Was that an expensive fix? Someone is selling one for $150 and it doesn’t start. Was wondering if that’s a good deal. It’s looks mint
This is the sixth video I have viewed.
Best no doubt. I'll view it for future reference.
Man! This is the greatest how to video ever ! Old man was on point!
Excellent video. Thank you for enhancing my life skill knowledge.
Got excited to troubleshoot my mower. Figured I’d tap the starter with a rubber mallet first before doing all of that. Fired right up. At least I know where to start if it happens again.
This is by far the best video explaining and understanding what could be the issue. I follow all the steps. Everything went good except when I got to see if engine when I get to the part of test for engine seize or starter electrical, go through click and read 1.14 then it drops. The starter try to move and engine/flywheel maybe three seconds and it wont do nothing else.
Replace battery, starter solenoid, ignition coil module, spark plug. I have LXT1040 Model#13wx90as056 Kohler engine model#SV590S. Would appreciate all your feedback. Thank you.
Here’s a link for the article and video for an engine that spins but won’t start: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/riding-lawn-mower-engine-spins-but-wont-start-video.html Follow the steps in that article and video to troubleshoot the starting problem because the starter is trying to spin the engine. Here’s some additional troubleshooting advice pertaining to your specific engine: Based on your details, there’s a chance that the ACR (automatic compression release) on the Kohler engine isn’t releasing cylinder compression so the starter can’t spin the engine. Faulty valves could also be preventing the engine from spinning because the valves aren't releasing cylinder compression. Remove the spark plug and try to start the engine with the spark plug removed. Removing the spark plug will release cylinder compression if that's what is preventing the starter from spinning the engine. If the engine spins normally with the spark plug removed when you turn the ignition key to the start position, then you’ll likely need to have a mechanic adjust the valves and/or repair the ACR system.
Great video with simple to follow instructions! Outstanding Sears PartsDirect!!!
Thanks for the positive feedback. We're glad to hear that you liked the video.
Your video helped me get an old Scotts tractor running. New battery and it turned over for about 2 seconds. Nothing but clicking. Checked the switch and solenoid and they were working. Tried shorting across the solenoid terminals with a 12 awg solid wire but no luck. Then loosened and retightened all terminals; battery, solenoid and starter. Added a little starter fluid to the air intake and it cranked right up. Just to note.: Some tractors may have safety switches, so make sure they are engaged.
Very good video! Simple and easy to understand. I have used Sears video before to troubleshoot appliances with good results. Just wish Sears was still in business in my area.
Thanks for the simple explanation . I had pulled the starter motor off , reset the magneto, checked the solenoid and checked the battery . What you video did was tell me ALMOST 12 votls is only 25% and not enough to start . New battery . I learnt another valuable lesson. Cheers.
Very helpful. Thanks!!
That was a very good video. Easy to follow steps with good views, and no nonsense. Thank You.
Thank you so much for this!! My problem turned out to be a locked -up engine. My Dad came to troubleshoot with me and he did find, after doing all the tests you described, there was gas in the piston. We discovered this after removing the spark plug and turning over the engine. Gas came shooting out of the spark plug socket and the engine roared to life !! Thank you!
Thanks for letting us know what you found. We're glad to hear that our troubleshooting video helped you out.
I wonder if that's my parents riding mower problem. When the key is turned there's not one click, there are constant clicks until I stop trying to start it.
TY you have helped me out of fix with my mower many times. You are clear and concise making it easy for me to do the job myself even though never trained or been around fixing mowers or small engines.
We appreciate your feedback and we're glad that we were able to help you.
Really good video! Thank you so much for posting this.
Most excellent and informative. And concise! And useful!!!!
Good video I’m using it to find my problem!
Simply brilliant presentation.
Excellent! Very clear troubleshooting video! Solved my issue and greatly appreciate the step by step instructions. Thank you!
After watching several other videos, this was the one that got me back on the lawn 👍🏻
Thanks for letting us know. We're glad to hear that our video helped you.
Thank you sir. Very clear and informative.God Bless
Great thorough video, easy to understand.
Great video with clear, practical instructions. I followed them to a T but it didnt work for me. Then I realized the PTO was engaged........
What is the PTO? Thanks
mari hall - The thing you push or pull to engage the blades. Mine is a red knob.
Thank you Wayne! Great video! I have a Craftsman ZTS 7500 that I just replaced the starter solenoid and circuit breaker (breaker didn't pass continuity test). I am only getting 7 v to the two tabs of the starter solenoid when I turn the key to start. The new solenoid is clicking like it is supposed to but the mower still won't crank. Battery is showing 12.6-12.8 v and holding that charge for days so my battery is good. The starter will try and the engine will turn if I jump the solenoid with my jump pack, but it still won't turn over at all when using the key. I have not tested any further beyond the solenoid as I got stumped with the 7 v coming from to the solenoid blades/tabs. I thought it had to be 12 v. I'm thinking I either have a) not enough juice to the solenoid (and don't know where to look to determine why), b) a bad/weak starter or c) a bad ignition switch that has too much resistance or a bad safety switch somewhere (Seat and 2 arm safety switches passed continuity tests when triggered). Suggestions?
Some of those models of Craftsman riding mowers had battery ground leads that were connected to painted surfaces on the frame so the battery wasn’t making a good ground connection, resulting in intermittent starting problems. Find the connection of the black battery lead to the frame or engine block. If the black lead is connected to a painted surface, disconnect the leads from the battery and then disconnect the black lead from its ground connection on the frame or engine block. Sand off paint and clean the ground connection point to remove any resistance to the battery ground. Reconnect the black battery lead to the ground connection then reconnect the leads to the battery. If this tip doesn’t help or the battery is already connected to a good ground on the frame or engine block, then check the ground wire that connects to the bottom relay tab on the solenoid as shown at 5:27 in this video: www.searspartsdirect.com/article/riding-lawn-mower-wont-turn-over-or-click-video.html. A bad ground connection through that wire could cause low voltage through the solenoid relay. Repair the ground wire connection for the solenoid relay if it’s bad. If the ground wire connection on the solenoid relay is okay, bad wiring or a faulty component in the circuit between the battery and the positive solenoid terminal tab is likely causing the meter to measure only 7 volts at the solenoid relay. Before you check that circuit, we recommend that you check voltage on the output post of the starter solenoid when the solenoid clicks as shown at 3:06 in this video that you posted your question on. If you’re not measuring 12.6-12.8 volts on that solenoid output post when the solenoid clicks, then check voltage at the input post of the solenoid (where the red cable is connected) as shown in the video. If the meter doesn’t measure 12.6-12.8 volts on the input post, follow the troubleshooting tips to clean the battery terminals or replace the red battery cable because it isn’t carrying enough current to the solenoid and the starter motor to spin the starter motor. If your meter measures 12.6-12.8 volts at the input post of the solenoid but not at the output post of the solenoid when the relay clicks, then the 7 volts going through the solenoid relay likely isn’t closing the solenoid contact. You’ll need to check the circuit between the battery and the positive solenoid relay post to find the cause of the voltage drop. We hope these tips help you figure out the cause of the starting problem in your riding mower. If you need more help, send us details about the results of the recommended troubleshooting and let us know the model number of your Craftsman ZTS 7500 mower. You can likely find the full model number of the mower under the seat.
Thanks for the video. It's comprehensive and simple to follow. I appreciate you sharing your knowledge and experience.
What an awesome dude! Great video, really informative.
Good video. Easy to follow.
Fantastic explanation and diagnosis. Well done and thank you.
Excellent tutorial. Thank you
You just told me exactly what I needed to do. Thank you for that amazing video.
Thank you perfect Into the point
thank you - very informative! From NS Canada
Excellent Sir!! Thank you
This guy has helped me so much! Thank you!
Thank you for a helpful video. You would make a good teacher.
Measuring battery “volts” is not enough to determine if the battery is still good. Mine had enough volts so I spent 3 hours trouble shooting more components according to this video and my mower still would not start. I replaced the battery and it started right up and now starts great. That being said, this is a great video, just know the battery may still be bad even if it shows enough volts.
Wayne, replaced the solenoid (2nd time) and the engine runs great. Thanks for your help!
Thanks for letting us know what you found. We’re glad that we were able to help you figure out the cause of that engine starting problem.
Thank You for the information
I miss you Sears :(
Very good video. 10/10
Not a mechanic. Awsome thx
Do you have a written version of this. Have watched it several times . But can't remember all the steps. Thank you the whole thing was very helpful .
Yes. Here's a link for a webpage that has the written version: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/riding-lawn-mower-engine-clicks-but-doesnt-turn-over-video
I removed starter and cleaned all nuts, studs and mounts because starter needs to be grounded also. This made it start. Not a bad starter.
You helped me fix my zero turn for 13 bucks because of this video, as opposed to 130 for a mechanic.
Best video. I miss Sears.
Thanks mate. Mine all sorted. Cheers.
Great video!
Great Job , now I need to know how to rebuild my starter.
Awesome video! Thank you!
Nice video. This covers all the components that could break. Luckily for me the problem ended up being the battery terminals. After I cleaned them I was able to start the engine.
Thanks for letting us know what you found. We're glad to hear that you were able to fix the problem and start the engine.
@2:49 - The solenoid doesn't click at this step but the voltage goes from 0 to 9.7. Does this mean the solenoid needs to replaced.
Additional question. I accidentally bridged the gap between the positive and negative on the solenoid and I could hear the start motor spin so I tried it again to see if the motor would start but the starter sounded like it was spinning but wouldn't start. Does this tell me anything useful or was I right that the solenoid is not working and needs to be replaced and that is the issue?
Awesome how-to video.
Great video sears
Thank you for the positive feedback.
I forgot to step on the clutch before starting my Troy Bilt Pony mower. Now it won’t start. It had turned on just a minute ago without any issues when I stepped on the clutch. The engine does not crank, but just a click that I can hear from the starter solenoid when trying to start it. The engine fan barely spins when turning it on, but I was able to rotate it when I took the cover off the engine. Spark plug did not have much carbon build up & just did an oil change recently. Any suggestions?
Best video ever
Nice job, very much to the point. I was wondering, how often are the cable going from the solenoid to the starter bad? Also you never mentioned the ignition (starter) switch. I suppose it's bad if you have a good battery and you don't get a click when you turn the key to start? I found a spark plug wire arcing out to the frame and eliminated one problem after fixing it. Thank you.
The cable going from the solenoid to the starter doesn't go bad that often if you store the mower indoors. If the mower is constantly exposed to the elements, that cable has a better chance of going bad after a few years of use. We show how to test the ignition switch at 8:30 in the video. Here's a link for a webpage that includes the written version of the video in case you need it: www.searspartsdirect.com/diy/article/riding-lawn-mower-engine-wont-turn-over-or-click-video . We hope this information helps. If you need further assistance, let us know.
@@searspartsdirect Thanks so much for your response and kind words of advice. It was the starter solenoid after all.
Great video helpful and to the point.
great video. I do have a question though. a battery can have the right voltage but when under load it doesn't have the amps to turn the motor. how do we test for that?
David, the person who can help with your question if on vacation. I'll have him get back to you ASAP when he returns.
@@searspartsdirect thank you
I agree, very well done. Thank you.
GOOD JOB
excellent narration and great video, thank you very much...
Thanks!
Awesome video
Great video. Well produced and narrated. Question: I have a 2001 Craftsman LT1000. When I turn the key all I get is a clicking noise. Immediately before it stopped running, it would start roughly. I'd turn the key, it would slip a bit then start. This happened 2-3x before it stopped starting. Seconds after it wouldn't start I removed the oil filler cap and some light smoke came out of the filler. I've trouble checked it based on your video. Will the flywheel of a seized engine move at all? I can get the flywheel to move 3-4 inches in one direction and a bit less than that in the other direction, BUT, the flywheel is very tight and i really have to torque my wrench in order to get it to move. Help!
If the mower has a single-cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine, check to see if the engine spins when you remove the spark plug. If it does, then the compression release cam could be broken and not releasing cylinder compression.
I’m using a multimeter and have determined that there is full charge on the battery and also on the red post on the solenoid. The black post on the solenoid, however, is showing approximately 6.3 volts when I turn the ignition key and hear the solenoid click. So, it’s getting approximately half the voltage it should be getting. According to your video, if the voltage were at (or possibly very near) zero, I could determine that the solenoid is bad and needs to be replaced. But, what might the culprit be in this situation? Thank you.
As a follow-up, I have replaced the battery, the starter solenoid, and the starter motor. The engine spins freely, which I checked prior to replacing both the solenoid and the starter motor. And yet, there is a single click from the solenoid when I turn the ignition key. The multimeter shows everything from the battery to the starter motor to be functioning correctly. Very frustrated at this point.
Can a faulty safety switch, such as the plunger interlock switch, cause the solenoid to click when turning the ignition key? I know next to nothing about safety switches and I’m pretty much out of ideas.
Good video
ace explanation, lovely guy
Thanks, I heard the clicking so I thought it might be a bad starter. Good thing I tested the wires. The post on the solenoid on the battery side was corroded so took some sand paper to it now it fires right up. Thanks for the video.
Thanks for letting us know what you found. We're glad to hear that you got the mower fixed.
Thanks for the good information here.
Great video!! How freely should the motor turn with a socket? Mine does turn but not easily.
You shouldn't need to strain when moving the ratchet handle to spin the engine. If your mower has a single-cylinder Briggs & Stratton engine, try removing the spark plug and spinning the engine. If the engine spins easier with the spark plug removed, then the compression release on the valve cam could be broken.