Hands-down the best video I've found on doing this front brake job. Crystal-clear instruction and superb attention to detail. I watched one video from an actual car garage/mechanic, and he was slopping grease all over the place, didn't clean the caliper bracket pins before re-greasing them, got grease on the brake pads, and apparently couldn't have cared less about torque values for the mounting bolts. NOt good. This video was head-and-shoulders above the rest. Well done.
Watched several videos before changing my Rav4 brake pads. You were the only one to mention the difference in size of the rotors and pads for vehicles manufacutered in Japan. I had the wrong pads. Thanks.
Well done video. Dealership told me my pads were in the "red zone" with only 2 mm left. Also wanted me to change the rotor and flush the fluid. Almost $1000 to do all that. Having done this once eons ago, I decided to try it myself with the great help of your video. Contrary to the scare tactics of the dealership, who showed me scary pics of a rusty rotor, I found I actually had 4 mm thickness left (1 mm is the mfr's minimum), no rotor warpage or grooves, and very clear brake fluid. Yes it's 100k on the vehicle (I bought it new) but it's a hybrid so the pads don't wear out nearly as fast. Spent $60 for pads and a few hours of my time. Much better than $1000. Thanks so much for a very helpful video!
Great video. I wish I would've found your video first, because this is my 2nd go on the brakes, and now I'm doing rotors as well. One of the important information from this video is doing the sliding pins one at a time, I removed both at the same time(assuming they were both the same shape and size) and after cleaning and regreasing both, I didn't know which sliding pin to put in which hole, and took a long time to research the placement.
Thank you Sir for your video! Followed along when doing my daughter's Rav4 and everything went smooth. A small issue I had was when I was slowly compressing one of the pistons, it started to balloon slightly. Took a small flat head screwdriver, gently lifted the piston's fold around all the edges to let the air out, and it compressed perfectly. A little tip in case anyone runs into that issue, might save you from messing up the piston.
Good works on explaining to burp the air from the slide pin cavity, this is most important. Those slide pins need just the right amount of grease as you mentioned, they should slide freely in the bracket before mounting the caliper. Make sure there is no grease on the end tip of the slide pins, otherwise they will not allow full travel to bottom of the slide pin barrel. Really liked the tip on gently pressing the brake pedal a few times, do not press hard all the way to the bottom to initiate the pads to slide to the rotors. Very comprehensive video, well done. Thank You.
The best video on this I've seen yet. Very detailed. I just changed the front pads on my friends 2018 rav 4 and man it was a pain! The new pads did NOT want to slide into the channels. I did end up using a similar technique that you used here and was able to get it done. However, I did notice that those slide pins were pretty stiff, but when I attempted to pull them out I notice the boot stretching and worried I would damage it, so I just tried to spin and push them in and out to get them to move better. That worked, but they definitely didnt move as smoothly as the ones you had here after cleaning them. *My biggest concern though* is, she just told me that when she brakes, there is a pretty loud rubbing/grinding noise. Not like metal on metal grinding but almost like dragging something across concrete. I hope that makes sense, I dont really know how to explain it. I told her that sometimes that can be caused by the new pads needing to "settle in", but with how much trouble the pads gave me to put in and the stiffness of the slide pins, I'm concerned it could be something else... They didnt do this right after install when I drove it around the block a couple times, but it was kind of wet outside from it raining and that's probably why. Do you think this rubbing/grinding noise when she brakes is more likely the new pads needing to settle in, or do you think I should take them apart again, clean everything better, and see if that fixes it? Thanks!
I would take off the wheels and see if you can figure it out. If the pads are too tight, they may be binding up. I would probably take the pads off too and clean the slide pins and make sure that the hardware is all clean and fully seated. I hope you’re able to get it sorted out without too much trouble. Best of luck to you, -Dan
@@DantheFixitMan thank you sir! I’m trying to talk her into making the drive back so I can look at them again. When it comes to brakes, I feel like it’s one of the last things you want to be any kind of unsure about.
Make sure the pads were installed correctly... friction side to the rotor. I've seen this mistake before. You can install them incorrectly...it only takes one pad to generate that grinding noise. Correctly functioning slide pins are a must for normal brake wear and quiet operation. Check mechanical wear clip and pad hardware for proper installation.
The size of the front pads is tied to the trim level. I think XLE, Limited and Platinum have the larger pads/rotors. The LE has the smaller pads/rotors.
Bravo excellent tutorial without stupid music . 2-3 little things : It's preferable to clean the slide pin holes before re-greasing the underside of the spring clips and when using the rotary wire brush be careful of the rubber boot of the slider pins. Nothing will happen if you strip everything first.Simply keep in mind where each piece is going with the # engraved in the casting as position reference.
I’m not sure as I haven’t done any work on a hybrid Rav4 yet, but if the parts are the same, then it would probably be the same process for a hybrid. You can verify that with an auto parts store or the parts finder for Amazon. Best of luck to you. -Dan
The pads are supposed to have spacer clips that mount to the top and bottom of the pad and lay flat against the front of the rotor to keep the pads properly spaced.
Great video! Couple questions: how do you know if the rotor needs to be replaced vs having it “turned”? And do you need to “turned” it every time if the rotor doesn’t need to be replaced?
Dan, What are the little clips that attach to the pads? In having issues trying to install the pads with them on. I noticed in this video yours were not installed on the pads you replaced. Are they necessary? Great video. Thanks.
To my knowledge, based on another video I saw, they are meant to help the pads stay in place when going in reverse. Without the clip, the pad may want to shift upward and cause some noise or wobbling. I've also heard that they will rub when the pads get low, indicating its time to change them.
Do not grease the slide clips. The grease will hold dirt preventing the pads from sliding properly. Those clips are stainless to prevent rust until the pads wear out. One of the most common mistakes DIYers make.
i dont c u press the piston inside in the video is ok leave the master cylinder close?. open the brake valve will it b better 1/4 turn? will air go inside?
I did it with the master cylinder closed. I believe there is a vent on this particular master cylinder lid. Also, if your brake fluid level is where it should be, you can press the piston in without any concern of overflow. However, its good practice to pump the brake pedal to get the piston back into its working position, before moving on to the next wheel. Having all pistons pushed in at once could create an issue, or so I've been told.
Most manufacturers recommend replacing them everytime you change the brakes. I usually change them if they come with the replacement pads. I didn't always change them back in the day, because most of the pads didn't come with them. Now that they do, I almost always change them. They do wear out and sometimes will get corroded and rough. The pads need to be able to move/slide freely as they wear down, and the nice new hardware allows them to do that without getting bound up in the bracket. Sometimes I will just clean them up and re install them if needed. Thanks for watching! -Dan the Fix it Man
The OEM shims are usually a much better fit and quality than aftermarket parts so use your judgement. If the original shims look good after you clean them up, reuse them.
I've watched about 10 videos on replacing pads and rotors on a Toyota Rav4 and this is the best by far!
Thank you for the nice comment.
It means a lot to me.
Take care,
Dan the Fix It Man
Hands-down the best video I've found on doing this front brake job. Crystal-clear instruction and superb attention to detail. I watched one video from an actual car garage/mechanic, and he was slopping grease all over the place, didn't clean the caliper bracket pins before re-greasing them, got grease on the brake pads, and apparently couldn't have cared less about torque values for the mounting bolts. NOt good. This video was head-and-shoulders above the rest. Well done.
Watched several videos before changing my Rav4 brake pads. You were the only one to mention the difference in size of the rotors and pads for vehicles manufacutered in Japan. I had the wrong pads. Thanks.
Well done video. Dealership told me my pads were in the "red zone" with only 2 mm left. Also wanted me to change the rotor and flush the fluid. Almost $1000 to do all that.
Having done this once eons ago, I decided to try it myself with the great help of your video. Contrary to the scare tactics of the dealership, who showed me scary pics of a rusty rotor, I found I actually had 4 mm thickness left (1 mm is the mfr's minimum), no rotor warpage or grooves, and very clear brake fluid. Yes it's 100k on the vehicle (I bought it new) but it's a hybrid so the pads don't wear out nearly as fast. Spent $60 for pads and a few hours of my time. Much better than $1000.
Thanks so much for a very helpful video!
Thanks for this really comprehensive full detailed repair! Camera angles were on another level too.
Great video. I wish I would've found your video first, because this is my 2nd go on the brakes, and now I'm doing rotors as well. One of the important information from this video is doing the sliding pins one at a time, I removed both at the same time(assuming they were both the same shape and size) and after cleaning and regreasing both, I didn't know which sliding pin to put in which hole, and took a long time to research the placement.
Thank you Sir for your video! Followed along when doing my daughter's Rav4 and everything went smooth. A small issue I had was when I was slowly compressing one of the pistons, it started to balloon slightly. Took a small flat head screwdriver, gently lifted the piston's fold around all the edges to let the air out, and it compressed perfectly. A little tip in case anyone runs into that issue, might save you from messing up the piston.
That’s a great tip, thank you for sharing!
-Dan
Best video for this I ever saw. You include some really important info others do not. Thanks.
Exactly ❤
Good works on explaining to burp the air from the slide pin cavity, this is most important. Those slide pins need just the right amount of grease as you mentioned, they should slide freely in the bracket before mounting the caliper. Make sure there is no grease on the end tip of the slide pins, otherwise they will not allow full travel to bottom of the slide pin barrel. Really liked the tip on gently pressing the brake pedal a few times, do not press hard all the way to the bottom to initiate the pads to slide to the rotors. Very comprehensive video, well done. Thank You.
Thanks. Perfect job
I had some issues in the past with these rubber rings.
I started to take them off and no more problems 😊
Great video. Changing my pads this week. Thanks.
The best video on this I've seen yet. Very detailed.
I just changed the front pads on my friends 2018 rav 4 and man it was a pain! The new pads did NOT want to slide into the channels. I did end up using a similar technique that you used here and was able to get it done. However, I did notice that those slide pins were pretty stiff, but when I attempted to pull them out I notice the boot stretching and worried I would damage it, so I just tried to spin and push them in and out to get them to move better. That worked, but they definitely didnt move as smoothly as the ones you had here after cleaning them.
*My biggest concern though* is, she just told me that when she brakes, there is a pretty loud rubbing/grinding noise. Not like metal on metal grinding but almost like dragging something across concrete. I hope that makes sense, I dont really know how to explain it. I told her that sometimes that can be caused by the new pads needing to "settle in", but with how much trouble the pads gave me to put in and the stiffness of the slide pins, I'm concerned it could be something else... They didnt do this right after install when I drove it around the block a couple times, but it was kind of wet outside from it raining and that's probably why.
Do you think this rubbing/grinding noise when she brakes is more likely the new pads needing to settle in, or do you think I should take them apart again, clean everything better, and see if that fixes it?
Thanks!
I would take off the wheels and see if you can figure it out. If the pads are too tight, they may be binding up. I would probably take the pads off too and clean the slide pins and make sure that the hardware is all clean and fully seated. I hope you’re able to get it sorted out without too much trouble.
Best of luck to you,
-Dan
@@DantheFixitMan thank you sir! I’m trying to talk her into making the drive back so I can look at them again. When it comes to brakes, I feel like it’s one of the last things you want to be any kind of unsure about.
Make sure the pads were installed correctly... friction side to the rotor. I've seen this mistake before. You can install them incorrectly...it only takes one pad to generate that grinding noise. Correctly functioning slide pins are a must for normal brake wear and quiet operation. Check mechanical wear clip and pad hardware for proper installation.
@ 15:20 you should show where you put the pry bar in
The size of the front pads is tied to the trim level. I think XLE, Limited and Platinum have the larger pads/rotors. The LE has the smaller pads/rotors.
I agreed to change my mother in laws brakes and rotors because the dealership quoted her 1k. Thank you for the video!
You’re welcome! Happy to hear that you were able to help her save some money.
Take care,
-Dan
You made that look easy my friend!
There are two shims for each pad in the front. The rubberized coating do not go against each other
Lots of good little tips. Thanks for making this video
This was a great video thanks for your time and knowledge brother
I would open the caliper bleed valve before compressing the caliper piston. Less chance of damaging ABS system.
Very good job u did there buddy
Bravo excellent tutorial without stupid music . 2-3 little things : It's preferable to clean the slide pin holes before re-greasing the underside of the spring clips and when using the rotary wire brush be careful of the rubber boot of the slider pins. Nothing will happen if you strip everything first.Simply keep in mind where each piece is going with the # engraved in the casting as position reference.
Excellent video!
Great video...but could you please help me out? I need to know if there is any difference if the rav4 is hybrid...thanks
I’m not sure as I haven’t done any work on a hybrid Rav4 yet, but if the parts are the same, then it would probably be the same process for a hybrid. You can verify that with an auto parts store or the parts finder for Amazon.
Best of luck to you.
-Dan
If you haven't found your answer yet, contact Toyota dealership/parts.
The pads are supposed to have spacer clips that mount to the top and bottom of the pad and lay flat against the front of the rotor to keep the pads properly spaced.
Thanks sir. Same problems, same carI so I just did it like yours
That was really helpful-thanks!!
Great video! Couple questions: how do you know if the rotor needs to be replaced vs having it “turned”? And do you need to “turned” it every time if the rotor doesn’t need to be replaced?
Dan,
What are the little clips that attach to the pads? In having issues trying to install the pads with them on. I noticed in this video yours were not installed on the pads you replaced. Are they necessary? Great video. Thanks.
To my knowledge, based on another video I saw, they are meant to help the pads stay in place when going in reverse. Without the clip, the pad may want to shift upward and cause some noise or wobbling. I've also heard that they will rub when the pads get low, indicating its time to change them.
thanks boss, whats your front jack point?
Great video! do you have a video on the rear ones too?
@@KandGadventures ua-cam.com/video/ocn6C1pz7qQ/v-deo.htmlsi=AzCx1xyo0wENku7Q
Here you go!
Thx!
Thank YOU 😊
Does it matter the way the clips go. I just replaced all pads and rotors and now I have a vibration when I hit the breaks
Excellent video , 👍🏻👍🏻👍🏻
The small Tanya Harding lol😂
Doesn't the Rav4 also have the anti-squeal shims?
Why does the "wear" clip goes on the top of pad?
Can you use brake lubricant for the caliper slide pins?
Yes
Thanks for the tip 👍👍👍👍
Thank you for your helpful video. I have a question that it is necessary to change both pads and rotors together? Or brake pads only?
It depends on the wear or surface of the rotors. You can just replace the pads if you prefer.
Do not grease the slide clips. The grease will hold dirt preventing the pads from sliding properly. Those clips are stainless to prevent rust until the pads wear out. One of the most common mistakes DIYers make.
hello do you have to bleed your brakes after changing rotors and pads? Especially when changing all 4 ?
No, not unless you opened the bleeder screw or did anything to possibly introduce air into the hydraulic system.
i dont c u press the piston inside in the video is ok leave the master cylinder close?. open the brake valve will it b better 1/4 turn? will air go inside?
I did it with the master cylinder closed. I believe there is a vent on this particular master cylinder lid. Also, if your brake fluid level is where it should be, you can press the piston in without any concern of overflow. However, its good practice to pump the brake pedal to get the piston back into its working position, before moving on to the next wheel. Having all pistons pushed in at once could create an issue, or so I've been told.
Great job.
Thank you!
Awesome video!!!!
Tanya Harding 😂😂 spit my drink out 😂
Whats that thing you are using to clean inside where the pins go?
www.amazon.com/ABN-Auto-Wire-Brush-38-Piece/dp/B076F98493/ref=mp_s_a_1_15?keywords=brush+kit+for+cleaning+calipers&qid=1698470938&sr=8-15
Exelent
Do you always need to change the hardware?
Most manufacturers recommend replacing them everytime you change the brakes. I usually change them if they come with the replacement pads. I didn't always change them back in the day, because most of the pads didn't come with them. Now that they do, I almost always change them. They do wear out and sometimes will get corroded and rough. The pads need to be able to move/slide freely as they wear down, and the nice new hardware allows them to do that without getting bound up in the bracket. Sometimes I will just clean them up and re install them if needed.
Thanks for watching!
-Dan the Fix it Man
The OEM shims are usually a much better fit and quality than aftermarket parts so use your judgement. If the original shims look good after you clean them up, reuse them.
Tanya Harding 😅
Wow, White gloves
❤
👍🏽👏🏽