The shifter paw adjustment doesn’t just come out of adjustment. If it’s out of adjustment that’s because someone set it up wrong. Also you should of replaced that burnt up stator. Fluid level is to the bottom of the clutch spring, it is not a set amount fluid ounces
Well thank you for that little tidbit... I bought my bike virtually brand new, 13 years old with 236 original miles on it. After 3 riding years and 20k+ miles on it, I'm at the place that lead me to this video. After reading your remark a little light came on and made me remember/realize; I've had shifting issues since day one. Thank you for that.
Mine wouldn’t go into 1st or 2nd on the downshift. Pulled apart wasn’t going to adjust pawl but then say retainer clip laying in the bottom of the case from the barrel. Going to pull it all apart. This video was really helpful to find the retainer location
I have been turning wrenches on Harleys and British bikes 51 years now. I remember in 2004 Harley got rid of the trapdoor on the Sportster transmission. Now you have to split the cases to pull the transmission. I was talking to the 20-something service writer then at the local dealership. He said I we never have any transmission trouble with Sportsters. I just laughed and shook my head and walked away.
My Father-in-law had a Sportster he sold to his Sister-in-law who has been letting her son Ride it. Saw it last weekend for the first time in a couple of years. Clutch barely engages, jug gaskets are seeping and it's stuck in 3rd🤦.
Blew the door on my '79 Sportster. Had to get every single piece replaced. That was only One Thousand dollars back in '80, including labor at the Harley dealership.
Your video was very informative. Thank you. However I'm not sure what you did to make it shift now I saw you take everything off and then put it back on. So if I'm having shift problems I don't know what you did to fix it?
It's the adjustment in third gear. Take the 2 bolts off the shift pawl and insert the specific drill bit and re tighten the shift pawl which realigns it.
Same here, was confused about the fix was... ???? I have a 1990 SPORTY 1200 with shifting problem. Stuck in gear, can't get to shift unless (with engine off) you roll bike back and forth. Will be taking apart this weekend. Hope this all I have to do is realigned this pawl. Seems to easy... Ride Free
Great video My sporty rattles some times going into 1st from N. I was wondering could you pull the comp sprocket off without removing the clutch basket?
7/64 is closest to 0.116 inch. not 5/32. this gap adjustment lead to other shifting issues on my sportster. specifically a very hard to find 2nd gear when shifting from 1st.
I have a 2005 sportster. I am getting a vibration while releasing the clutch. At the point where it full engages there’s a buzz feeling. Do you know what that may be?
I've had an issue with 1st gear jumping in and out as if the dogs aren't engaging fully. Once a bit of load is placed on the trans, 1st gear clunks in the whole way. I pulled the trans yesterday and I can see there's some wear on the edges of the dogs but I'm wondering if the pawl being out of adjustment is what caused the issue to begin with. Anyone else have the 1st gear "jump & clunk?"
Yes, I've had the exact same problem on my 2001 Sportster, the problem was the 1st and 3rd gears on the COUNTERSHAFT had worn out dogs. It doesn't look like severe damage but it's obviously enough to cause that jumping out problem. Harley has made an upgraded version of both gears with virtually no ramps machined, this supposedly helps maintain engagement and avoid the problem. I've only just fitted mine but haven't had a chance to test it yet. The pawl adjustment is definitely very important and you should check that as well, using new nyloc nuts while you're at it. Let me know if you need any info or pics, happy to share what I can.
@@6sillygtivr Of course, 35763-89A is the countershaft first gear, and 35771-94 is countershaft third gear. Bear in mind that you will also need a set of retaining snap rings, part n. 11067, and ideally you should also replace the thrust spacers (6003) and the needle bearings on both shafts (8876A, four for the whole transmission). Let me know if you need anything else, good luck!
Do you have a video on break pedal adjustment? I have a 2021 XL 1200 NS Iron Sportster the break pedal is just a little bit to low & while breaking it hits the heat shield on the front exhaust...
Ive been a auto mechanic for 25 years now but i’m new to working on Harleys. I purchased an 02 sportster 1200 with 700 miles back in 2012 and now i have 6000 miles on it. Every time i put it in gear it has a slight grind and it bangs into gear like it always has since i purchased it. Is that normal?? I’m asking now because i’m putting 14 inch ape hangers on so im replacing the clutch cable and want to know if theres something i should check or look for while im replacing the cable?
If you find that it's jumping in and out of first gear, the issue is most likely that the dogs on 1st and 3rd on the COUNTERSHAFT are becoming worn out. No fix other than replacing the gears with the upgraded parts available from Harley. If it's just going into neutral and staying there, it's likely that the shift pawl needs adjustment as described here with the #32 drill bit. Use new nyloc nuts.
Have a 2004 1200 sportster HD. Friend payed it down simply taking off at night near the beach, bike has an engine guard on it so no major damage… It is stuck in gear though, thinking it’s the shifter pawl though What else Could it be ?, had changed the oil just prior to this accident{& just after purchasing the bike} it was difficult to shift Before changing the oil, which was Filthy, bike had been sitting awhile…. Suggestions as to what else it Could be other than the shifting pawl?
Made it look waaaay to easy. If I have a 25 gallon compressor with 150 Psi, will that break those two big nuts? I have seen people have to use a torch on those nuts, use a breaker bar, etc. . .
My 89 sportster won't go into neutral an an the basket has a little play in an out.. when I start the bike it doesn't always catch an when it does has a grinding noise
I ride a 1992 Sportster 883 recently I was told by 'an expert' that there's some bushing behind the shift lever that can wear out and cause a ratting noise' & mine seems to have that noise while riding if I go around or over 3000 rpm in like 2nd or 3rd gear. It doesn't seem to make any noise in neutral or when clutch is pulled in. Is this something I should go into the side cover and behind the inner workings?
And the retuernspring is on the primary side of my 1988 883 ? Just had mine stop returning, the shifter stays put wherever i push or pull it, cleaned snd lubed all the linkage and no difference. Am i in trouble here?
I used this video as a tutorial and I can’t figure out why my snap ring keeps popping out everytime I put everything back together and pull in the clutch lever. Then I have to pull everything back off and reinstall the snap ring. I don’t understand what I am doing wrong. The snap ring looks well seated in its respective groove. I don’t even know where the tension or force would be coming from to pop it off in the first place. Has anyone else dealt with this? I am on try number 5…
Hey thanks for the video I like seeing this bike . soooo..... what if your replacing your clutch , you tighten down to hard and broke the pressure plate , now what ? Asking for a freind.
I broke the pressure plate when installing an Energy One clutch in my Sporty. Ordered a new one and the second time was more careful. ~ Xena @ the XL Forum. 👍🏻
That was my question too. Had to rewatch it. The drill bit only stays in while the two bolts are tightened to give the paw precisely the space of the drill bit size he mentioned. After that, the bit comes out.
Dude, that is a freaking cool paint job, on the tank. May Eddie rest in peace. I want that paint job. I just watched the video about adjusting the clutch. If I have to jam it into 1st, so it won't clatter into gear, is that a clutch or shifter pawl issue?
If that’s a lot of work to you, then maybe you shouldn’t ride at all or just keep taking your bike to the shops. They all eventually break and need work. This is a simple job… your just lazy
I'd like to do this but I only have the Harbor Freight jack/lift. I worry that the bike might fall of when those nuts are torqued. I could maybe get everything snugged up and put the bike back onto the ground to do the final torque?
You don't need the metal plate etc to hold the clutch and primary from moving! I just used an old paper back book that I finished reading, yes just jam it between the chain and gear teeth, every one has a few, maybe Democrat supporters and votes will not have any books they cannot read.
How did your clutch basket snap ring come right out. Every other video on this clutch says I need to buy a clutch spring compression kit or the snap ring will not come off. What did I miss here? 😳
What you see is the snap ring that retains the clutch adjuster rod (and its bearing), that one does come out with just a pair of snap ring pliers. At this point you can remove the clutch as an assembly, if you need to get at the transmission, starter motor bolts, or shifter pawl. However, if you need to OPEN the clutch to replace the discs, then you will need a clutch compressor tool to relieve pressure on the diaphragm spring so you can then remove another snap ring (different from the one mentioned before) and pull out all the clutch internals.
For those that don’t know a 4in door hinge that’s bass works great for stopping the gears
Thanks for that. Imma bouta bust into mine. 10k & I’ve already got shifting issues. 😕
Bro I was just thinking about what I could use, thanks for the tip! 💪🤙
Patrick injures top of head 10 minutes before video starts.
Patrick: “The show must go on”.
Great video, guys. 👊🏼
That cheat sheet for the screws is an absolute stroke of genius
Your how to videos are the best ! For to the point, well spoken and well edited. ! Please do more ,Patrick
Finally! A bike that is dirtier than mine. Guilt alleviated. Thank you.
its knot even close to as dirty as my old ironhead!
😬
😂👍🏼
Not "dirty as" is still dirty! tsk tsk
Had to replace my stator rotor, this walked me through all the steps I needed. Thank you very much
Thank you! Good description. Well edited and good filming. I’m broke, but you help me keep my bike on the road.
SPORTSTERS RULE!!!
🤘😎🤘
Nice video tutorial to keep in my how to playlist when the time comes for my sportster! thanks
The shifter paw adjustment doesn’t just come out of adjustment. If it’s out of adjustment that’s because someone set it up wrong. Also you should of replaced that burnt up stator. Fluid level is to the bottom of the clutch spring, it is not a set amount fluid ounces
Well thank you for that little tidbit... I bought my bike virtually brand new, 13 years old with 236 original miles on it. After 3 riding years and 20k+ miles on it, I'm at the place that lead me to this video. After reading your remark a little light came on and made me remember/realize; I've had shifting issues since day one. Thank you for that.
Mine wouldn’t go into 1st or 2nd on the downshift. Pulled apart wasn’t going to adjust pawl but then say retainer clip laying in the bottom of the case from the barrel. Going to pull it all apart. This video was really helpful to find the retainer location
I have been turning wrenches on Harleys and British bikes 51 years now. I remember in 2004 Harley got rid of the trapdoor on the Sportster transmission. Now you have to split the cases to pull the transmission. I was talking to the 20-something service writer then at the local dealership. He said I we never have any transmission trouble with Sportsters. I just laughed and shook my head and walked away.
New to Harley man got a 1202 buell x1 lightning/ would mine have a trap door to do trans work or so I need to split cases
My Father-in-law had a Sportster he sold to his Sister-in-law who has been letting her son Ride it. Saw it last weekend for the first time in a couple of years. Clutch barely engages, jug gaskets are seeping and it's stuck in 3rd🤦.
@@SGTJDerek sounds like he needs a hand sorting it out.
@@ludo9234 not unless he hands over the title.
Blew the door on my '79 Sportster. Had to get every single piece replaced. That was only One Thousand dollars back in '80, including labor at the Harley dealership.
As always, very helpful. Thanks for the video!
Your video was very informative. Thank you. However I'm not sure what you did to make it shift now I saw you take everything off and then put it back on. So if I'm having shift problems I don't know what you did to fix it?
It's the adjustment in third gear. Take the 2 bolts off the shift pawl and insert the specific drill bit and re tighten the shift pawl which realigns it.
Same here, this is why I looked into the comments to find out what he actually did ha!
Same here, was confused about the fix was... ????
I have a 1990 SPORTY 1200 with shifting problem. Stuck in gear, can't get to shift unless (with engine off) you roll bike back and forth. Will be taking apart this weekend. Hope this all I have to do is realigned this pawl. Seems to easy...
Ride Free
Really dig the look of that sportster!
Thanks for this! Digging into an extremely slop filled shifter.
Great video very well done, thanks.
Thank you this was exactly what i needed to know!
Always useful tutorial. Great!!!!! 👌
Nice! Thanks for posting this.
Dude, That was Awesome..TY
So loosening the shifter paw and placing the drill bit in there puts it back in the correct position?
Eddie Van Halen tank is super cool touch
For sure
Great video My sporty rattles some times going into 1st from N.
I was wondering could you pull the comp sprocket off without removing the clutch basket?
Nope, it all has to come off together because the primary triplex chain is "endless", meaning there isn't a master link you can take out.
7/64 is closest to 0.116 inch. not 5/32. this gap adjustment lead to other shifting issues on my sportster. specifically a very hard to find 2nd gear when shifting from 1st.
Shop manual says no 32 bit (0.116)
That’s smaller than 5/32
Thanks for sharing your content is very helpful I really appreciate it 🍻
Great info
What happened to the first rule of thumb before you get into a primary Disconnect the battery?
I have a 2005 sportster. I am getting a vibration while releasing the clutch. At the point where it full engages there’s a buzz feeling. Do you know what that may be?
I've had an issue with 1st gear jumping in and out as if the dogs aren't engaging fully. Once a bit of load is placed on the trans, 1st gear clunks in the whole way. I pulled the trans yesterday and I can see there's some wear on the edges of the dogs but I'm wondering if the pawl being out of adjustment is what caused the issue to begin with. Anyone else have the 1st gear "jump & clunk?"
Yes, I've had the exact same problem on my 2001 Sportster, the problem was the 1st and 3rd gears on the COUNTERSHAFT had worn out dogs. It doesn't look like severe damage but it's obviously enough to cause that jumping out problem. Harley has made an upgraded version of both gears with virtually no ramps machined, this supposedly helps maintain engagement and avoid the problem. I've only just fitted mine but haven't had a chance to test it yet.
The pawl adjustment is definitely very important and you should check that as well, using new nyloc nuts while you're at it.
Let me know if you need any info or pics, happy to share what I can.
@@mysticapprentice do you have a part # for those gears?
@@6sillygtivr Of course, 35763-89A is the countershaft first gear, and 35771-94 is countershaft third gear. Bear in mind that you will also need a set of retaining snap rings, part n. 11067, and ideally you should also replace the thrust spacers (6003) and the needle bearings on both shafts (8876A, four for the whole transmission). Let me know if you need anything else, good luck!
What did you do to your head? started off without blood but then BAM! blood on the dome.
Smacked it on the broken clutch lever part way through.
-Patrick
Thanks, Very helpful
You guys need to correct this, 5/32 is NOT #32, it's much bigger.
If you have a metric set, you can use a 3mm bit.
Bought a 05 fatboy. The second time I took it out, the shifter would not return anymore. Thinking I may attempt this.
Do you have a link to find the primary gasket and or the new clutch pack you installed.
I’m struggling so hard on getting that retainer snap ring back in. Any tips?
Do you have a video on break pedal adjustment?
I have a 2021 XL 1200 NS Iron Sportster the break pedal is just a little bit to low & while breaking it hits the heat shield on the front exhaust...
Could you please tell me the sizes of the tools for removing nuts of main shaft and clutch? (Sorry but I didn’t listen well on video)
1-3/8 in on the clutch basket (left handed thread (righty loosey, lefty tighty) and 1-1/8 on the comp sprocket
Hi, I'm looking into taking apart my 2016 roadster here soon, it has some issues shifting into 3rd especially. Should all the steps shown be the same?
Can someone please help me fix my sporster I have pics of the problem.. the lower clutch cable that goes into housing is leaking.
You fix the leak?
Is there a clip behind the shifter on the link in fall
Ive been a auto mechanic for 25 years now but i’m new to working on Harleys. I purchased an 02 sportster 1200 with 700 miles back in 2012 and now i have 6000 miles on it. Every time i put it in gear it has a slight grind and it bangs into gear like it always has since i purchased it. Is that normal?? I’m asking now because i’m putting 14 inch ape hangers on so im replacing the clutch cable and want to know if theres something i should check or look for while im replacing the cable?
What would cause bike to occasionally go into neutral when in first on takeoff?
I came here to ask the same question
If you find that it's jumping in and out of first gear, the issue is most likely that the dogs on 1st and 3rd on the COUNTERSHAFT are becoming worn out. No fix other than replacing the gears with the upgraded parts available from Harley.
If it's just going into neutral and staying there, it's likely that the shift pawl needs adjustment as described here with the #32 drill bit. Use new nyloc nuts.
Have a 2004 1200 sportster HD. Friend payed it down simply taking off at night near the beach, bike has an engine guard on it so no major damage… It is stuck in gear though, thinking it’s the shifter pawl though What else Could it be ?, had changed the oil just prior to this accident{& just after purchasing the bike} it was difficult to shift Before changing the oil, which was Filthy, bike had been sitting awhile…. Suggestions as to what else it Could be other than the shifting pawl?
love you bro
🤙🤙 right on, brother..
Are the same steps required for a 2008 Dyna Supe Glide? Cant get mine past 3rd gear.
My sporty has problems going into 2nd all other gears ok what could it be did fluid clutch cable adjusted clutch
What type of ratcheting socket is that to remove the clutch cover?
I have 2008 sportster 1200 xl low .would this be same fix for clutch fork problem
Drill N32 , how much millimetres!? Thank you!!!
Made it look waaaay to easy. If I have a 25 gallon compressor with 150 Psi, will that break those two big nuts? I have seen people have to use a torch on those nuts, use a breaker bar, etc. . .
Is that for a 2007 sportster as well
Curious what tail fairing deal that is on that bike
Please, my xr gear shift is very stiff worse when hot, will this help before I pull it apart????
Went down and won't shift could the pawl have been knocked out of adjustment
My 89 sportster won't go into neutral an an the basket has a little play in an out.. when I start the bike it doesn't always catch an when it does has a grinding noise
I ride a 1992 Sportster 883 recently I was told by 'an expert' that there's some bushing behind the shift lever that can wear out and cause a ratting noise' & mine seems to have that noise while riding if I go around or over 3000 rpm in like 2nd or 3rd gear. It doesn't seem to make any noise in neutral or when clutch is pulled in. Is this something I should go into the side cover and behind the inner workings?
Yes, its a bushing that is in the primary cover where the shift shaft comes through. It can get worn and allow the shifter to rattle.
Hi , does this work on the xr 1200, thanks.
What is the length and thickness of the piece of metal that you need, for holding the compensator sprocket and clut basket in place?
I attempted to adjust clutch cable and destroyed the clutch cable 😞
Where do I get a metal shim like that?!
do i need to remove the clutch basket if im only replacing the return spring?
also if the shift lever is bot returning to center position after shifting, it has the be the return spring correct?
I don't think you can get to it without taking off the clutch basket.
-Patrick
@@fernandovenegas5374 Possibly, you will need to do the adjustment either way when you replace the return spring.
And the retuernspring is on the primary side of my 1988 883 ? Just had mine stop returning, the shifter stays put wherever i push or pull it, cleaned snd lubed all the linkage and no difference. Am i in trouble here?
Did you disconnect battery prior?
No need
@@rebel_ltz I thought all battery's should be when working on inner primary. Thought wrong I reckon
No need but you don’t want sometone hitting the switch while hand in there 😱
I used this video as a tutorial and I can’t figure out why my snap ring keeps popping out everytime I put everything back together and pull in the clutch lever. Then I have to pull everything back off and reinstall the snap ring. I don’t understand what I am doing wrong. The snap ring looks well seated in its respective groove. I don’t even know where the tension or force would be coming from to pop it off in the first place.
Has anyone else dealt with this? I am on try number 5…
5/32 is .156....not sure what to go with
Hey thanks for the video I like seeing this bike . soooo..... what if your replacing your clutch , you tighten down to hard and broke the pressure plate , now what ? Asking for a freind.
I broke the pressure plate when installing an Energy One clutch in my Sporty. Ordered a new one and the second time was more careful. ~ Xena @ the XL Forum. 👍🏻
Woooo you had thing sticking out of clutch then it was gone you skipped a step What do you do with that first nut you took off
did he leave the drill bit in it?
also, best vid on YT on this subject, thank you @j&pcycles
That was my question too. Had to rewatch it. The drill bit only stays in while the two bolts are tightened to give the paw precisely the space of the drill bit size he mentioned. After that, the bit comes out.
Dude, that is a freaking cool paint job, on the tank. May Eddie rest in peace. I want that paint job.
I just watched the video about adjusting the clutch. If I have to jam it into 1st, so it won't clatter into gear, is that a clutch or shifter pawl issue?
That sounds like a clutch issue. Like the clutch isn't completely disengaging.
@@jpcycles,
Thanks
I appreciate it.
Wow that's a lot of work I'll stick with my street glide🤔
If that’s a lot of work to you, then maybe you shouldn’t ride at all or just keep taking your bike to the shops. They all eventually break and need work. This is a simple job… your just lazy
I'd like to do this but I only have the Harbor Freight jack/lift. I worry that the bike might fall of when those nuts are torqued. I could maybe get everything snugged up and put the bike back onto the ground to do the final torque?
That should be fine.
@@jpcycles Thanks for the help! Going to do this in the Spring
A 5/32" bit is .040 (40 thou) over a #32 bit. Is that "the same thing"? Not to me it isn't.
Don't use an IMPACT!!!!! you will break the rotor magnets
yikes, I used an impact on mine just as shown here and other videos... the magnets look fine, but could they be damaged in a way that can't be seen?
🏁👍
dude! you're bleeding. Go take care of that, I'll be here when you get back.
Blood, sweat, & beers.
The Harley clutch really seems needlessly complicated.....
You don't need the metal plate etc to hold the clutch and primary from moving!
I just used an old paper back book that I finished reading, yes just jam it between the chain and gear teeth, every one has a few, maybe Democrat supporters and votes will not have any books they cannot read.
How did your clutch basket snap ring come right out. Every other video on this clutch says I need to buy a clutch spring compression kit or the snap ring will not come off. What did I miss here? 😳
What you see is the snap ring that retains the clutch adjuster rod (and its bearing), that one does come out with just a pair of snap ring pliers. At this point you can remove the clutch as an assembly, if you need to get at the transmission, starter motor bolts, or shifter pawl.
However, if you need to OPEN the clutch to replace the discs, then you will need a clutch compressor tool to relieve pressure on the diaphragm spring so you can then remove another snap ring (different from the one mentioned before) and pull out all the clutch internals.
What size piece of metal is that that you use to wedge in between the gears