GO HERE FOR about $130, Get it ALL & do it once amzn.to/3TpOXlQ ( 2007 and newer style 6 speed versions amzn.to/3TngdkF )THE ONLY GENUINE PARTS B & W Complete kit, the most look the same, but are knock offs from China! ALWAYS USE ATF 4+, STP brand preferred!!!! ( click on SHOW MORE for Vehicle List) **APPLICATIONS: 87% of all 1988 to 2012 Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Eagle Products Dodge 1989 to 2011 ALL 4 Spd FWD Breeze 1996-2006 L4 2.0L 2.4L 4 Spd FWD Cirrus 1995-2006 L4 2.4L; V6 2.5L 4 Spd FWD Fifth Avenue 1993 V6 3.3L 4 Spd FWD Imperial 1990-1993 V6 3.3L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD LeBaron 1990-1995 V6 3.0L 4 Spd FWD New Yorker 1989-1993 V6 3.0L 3.3L 4 Spd FWD Pacifica 2004-2008 V6 3.5L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD AWD PT Cruiser 2001-2011 L4 2.4L 4 Spd FWD Sebring 1995-2010 L4 2.0L 2.4L DOHC 4 Spd FWD Sebring 1995-2010 V6 2.7L 3.0L 4 Spd FWD Sundance 1993-1994 V6 3.0L 4 Spd FWD Talon 1995-2000 L4 2.0L; V6 2.5L 4 Spd FWD Town & Country 1989-2007 V6 3.0L 3.3L 3.4L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD AWD Town & Country 2008-2011 V6 3.3L 4 Spd FWD AWD Voyager 1995-2007 L4 2.4L 4 Spd FWD Voyager 2008-2010 V6 3.3L 4 Spd FWD Voyager 1995-2007 V6 3.0L 3.3L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD Grand Voyager 1997-1998 V6 3.8L 4 Spd AWD Avenger 1995-2011 L4 2.0L 2.4L DOHC 4 Spd FWD Avenger 1995-2010 V6 2.7L 3.0L 4 Spd FWD Caravan 1990-2007 L4 2.4L 2.5L 4 Spd FWD AWD Caravan 1990-2007 V6 3.0L 3.3L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD AWD Caravan 2008-2011 V6 3.3L 4 Spd FWD AWD Journey 2009-2011 L4 2.4L; V6 2.7L 4 Spd FWD AWD Neon 2002-2005 L4 2.0L; V6 2.4L 4 Spd FWD Spirit 1989-1995 L4 2.5L; V6 3.0L 4 Spd FWD Stratus 1995-2007 L4 2.0L 2.4L DOHC 4 Spd FWD Stratus 1995-2007 V6 2.5L 2.7L 4 Spd FWD Eclipse 1995-1998 L4 2.0L Non-Turbo 4 Spd FWD
I did the filter and fluid myself. The fluid was the correct type, no mistake. I did have trouble with the filter staying in place but I am now not sure the old o ring was on the old filter. I remember a loose o ring but cant quite remember that whole procedure now. So I'm lost as to what to do. Is it junk ? Should I drop the pan and find anything? Do I try the solenoid and sensors. Do I sell as is. Oh, that sucks to know I might have killed it.
I did the filter and fluid myself. The fluid was the correct type, no mistake. I did have trouble with the filter staying in place but I am now not sure the old o ring was on the old filter. I remember a loose o ring but cant quite remember that whole procedure now. So I'm lost as to what to do. Is it junk ? Should I drop the pan and find anything? Do I try the solenoid and sensors. Do I sell as is. Oh, that sucks to know I might have killed it.
@@robinheaton2161 Remove the solenoid, flip it over and look into the tiny filters on the ports, if they are clogged VERY carefully remove them, clean them out very carefully and re install it. You may experience the effect again as particles plug them up again though and have to repeat the procedure. If the filter had problems staying in, it could have fell in the pan or came loose enough its starving the trans pump of fluid too. The last option is a give up and trash it option.
I just did this on a 2002 Caravan, it worked. I got the parts from your source for $118, every thing was as you represented but there was a lot less room to work in the Caravan! Thanks for the video, as I said, it worked.
I appreciate you putting that link down below. I just got done taking solenoid pack off my 93 Chrysler Lebaron 3.0 All the information you've given is Godsend, Thank you so much. I'm also adding that ground wire.
i havei have a 2009 chrysler town and country with the 62TE 6 speed automatic transmission and the 3.8 V-6 engine. it went into limp mode a couple of months ago and threw the code PO76A SHIFT SOLENOID H MALFUNCTION. it will not shift into the higher gears. but when i pull over and stop the van and put it into park and shut it off then restart it then it will shift into all gears just fine for about 3 blocks up to 10 blocks then it will drop back into limp mode. i have changed the fluid and filter. no change. i have been told to change the solenoid pack and that will fix the problem. i would really like your opinion on this issue. the TCM is located in the drivers side wheel well. HOW STUPID is that. an area where water can get onto the connections. WHAT DO YOU THINK ?
Yours has weak valves, the Reman is under $150 so yes, replace it. amzn.to/3TngdkF *Only get a reman from DJ TRANS or you can get screwed by a scrapper scammer!* Be sure to clean the heck out of the entire area, then remove old one, some trans fluid will make a mess, so pan it. And ONLY use ATF4+ on a mopar trans, not multi or any other stuff. Your trans is building load/line pressure on the back of failing solenoid valves, the computer sees it as fail, so it puts you in limp mode. I recommend a full trans fluid change and filter kit so consider it at the same time.
I have a neighbor who has a 2007 Chrysler Sebring that she believes has a transmission issue it only has 70,000 miles on it she likes the car and thinks it's smarter to go buy another used car instead of replacing her Transmission in this one to me that didn't make much sense since if it is transmission issue that would be cheaper than buying another used car to carry a loan and who knows what headaches you might tackle or take on with another unknown use car so I was trying to research some things on the internet to find out why when she drives the car she can't drive it over 40 miles per hour and I've run into some limp mode and electrical issues and a couple of different things and then I saw this video which seems very specific talking about ground wires and reds and I did see cell annoyed in another video but nothing like your video State I really like some feedback on if this will help her problem or how I can pass along information to her to get past her husband and the mechanic that told her to go buy another used car instead if neither one of them understand it could just be this repair is all that would be needed thank you for any feedback you can offer the videos fantastic
With 9 out of 10 transmission shops being 100% unethical and willing to rip off customers I would do a process of taking the car for computer code checks at a few auto parts stores first. A 2007 Sebring should go 160,000 miles before needing a transmission on average. The ground cluster on drivers strut tower where there is a group of ground wires going to chassis from the engine tends to have a problem with wire breaks in the location where the wire goes into the terminal lugs, taking a piece of wire and jumping it from the battery to the engine can show that may be a consideration. Low ground reaction to the Control Module does cause the computer to default to limp home. Big consideration for your friend, with the Covid19 virus thing going on, people are dumping cars onto used lots that are rolling catastrophes in the effort to try and make a dollar, she's likely to get a desperate used car sold by a broke and desperate person! Fix the 2007 for sure.
Same exact problem with my mother's car. I've not dug into it yet, but it will not shift out of 1st gear. Going to try the ground first, then cleaning the harness plug/receptacle. She just had an engine put in, so I'm thinking probably a ground issue, or the trans control module. I wish you, and myself, luck in fixing.
Hi John, I have Export build Chrysler Sebring 2002 Sedan 2.0L Dohc 141hp. It has 173 000 km (roughly 106k miles). Transmission shifts every time good, but every 60-70miles I get P0700 & P0740 errors. I have replaced the timming belt on 100 000 miles and since then the engine stalls sometimes when I start it, sometimes on reverse when I press a little bit the gas pedal and release it. Before the timming belt change I did not have any problems with the engine. Also I feel like a kick when I press slightly the break pedal and the transmission shifts from 4th to 3rd or from 3rd to 2nd gear. Initially the error codes begun in Germany, on a steep slope I tried to overpass one truck, but I was very heavy. In the car we were 5 guys + luggage. I press the gas pedal to the limit, from 4th it went to 3rd like normally, but when I passed the truck it continued to 3rd with 5000-5500rpm, I released the pedal a little bit, but it didn't shifted, the rpm dropped to 4500 and then it shifted. It needed 5 seconds from the moment I released the pedal to the gear shift. 1 minute later Check engine with those errors came up. I Changed the Transmission fluid and cleared the error codes, but when I go to the highway and drive for an hour they come back. Now I think to replace the solenoid valve pack and do these ground wiring things that you suggest. Do you think this will fix the issues with the codes or not? Thanks! Greetings from Bulgaria.
Seems like your speed sensors and solenoid pack is having problems. I would also look at getting the computer re-flashed when they are replaced. And be absolutely sure you use ATF 4+ newest blend of transmission fluid, they are very picky. The timing belt change due to location of it during the work can also damage the cam position sensor which works in conjunction with the speed sensors and shift/torque point programming.
First off any vehicle made of metal will corrode no matter who makes it. On the limp home mode. If you momentarily turn off the ignition then turn it back on the trans will shift normally. There is another problem with the early years of those trans, the so called bump stop. When coming to a stop the trans takes a second or 2 to go into first causing a noticeable bump. The other problem is slow engagement when putting the trans into drive. I have recently rebuilt the trans in my 93 LeBaron, a low mileage car (57K). Still does the same thing. Rebuild was mainly due to age and the fact that it had been sitting in a garage for a long time. I have changed the hydraulic control unit (the one on the trans) & repalced the electronic unit (the one on the right fender). Also changed the 2 sensors and added extra grounds on the hydraulic & electronic unit. Haven't added the extra ground to the engine. The hydraulic control unit is mainly an electro/ hydraulic unit, no electronics just some electro magnets. I have replaced the electronic control with 3 separate salvage yard units & all 3 perform exactly the same. I replaced the 2 sensors with units that I located at a local transmission parts supply where I got the hydraulic control unit. Don't know the brand but they had the hyd unit in BW. I,m confident that the internals of the trans are solid so I'm leaning toward a piece of E-junk being the culprit, E-junk being some electronic device. They had a lot of problems with the early years of that trans. I will try to find the sensors you mention but doubt that will change much because when I changed out the originals there was no change. Any ideas on other things that could cause problems? It continues to do the bump stop & slow drive engagement thing. Any new ideas would be appreciated.
Mr Daniel😇❤️ should I use dielectric grease on the top of the solenoid? Where it connects? And what type of rtv sealant to use on the transmission pan? Is silicone ok or just permatex transmission sealant?
What causes a hesitation and slight thud when downshifting? From 2nd to 1st when nearly stopping. I put a PT cruiser transmission in a dodge neon, shifts fine the transmission could need more +4 fluid. Is that the prob?
John thanks for the info! my old 92 dynasty (A gift from my late mother) will be a pleasure to keep running showing all the symptoms that you reported on, I think she was scammed 6 years ago for same problems but anyway..... appreciate info just want to keep old beast going , you kept it simple THANK YOU!
+fred thornton Oh how I hate the goofy company of chrysler after they sold out to globalist handlers. But I loves me a C-body platform like the Dynasty. When the shit-in-a-can Neon came out, that was the last chrysler product I looked at. Had a Plymouth Caravelle with the 2.6 mitsu motor, damn thing went 314,000 miles when most of the era blew up at 120k.
yeah, it's crazy John I make a round trip of 200 miles a day, don't want to wear out my Jeep so this fix should keep the old Dynasty going for a while longer! thanks again, the trusted repair manual never said a word about this fix, u-tube keeps this old guy with his old car going . take care Fred
I have a 1992 Chrysler LeBaron, it has 52,000 miles on it. I searched for months to find a Craigs list ad with "won't shift" attached to anything chrysler-dodge-plymouth-eagle and got it for $250!!!! Its a immaculate estate car from a one owner elderly lady. Pristine and all it needed was this done to it. That makes 19 in 3 years I have found for $400 and less, fixed and resold to double + my money!
john Daniel i have a 1991 dodge caravan 98k its have some trans issues its mostly on a dead stop and to get to a forward motion its really slow to get going but ones it gets going its fine
Replace trans filter, use only AFT+4 in it, no snake oil treatments! And have a code check done to see if the computer has stored codes related to EGR and O2 sensors to see if vacuum feedback is misreading.
Thanks so much! The P0765 is driving mr crazy. I have to try the ground wire trick. The previous owner installed a refurbished solenoid pack, so I don't believe that can be bad. The gasket is in horrible shape though.
Was wondering also on the OHV 3.8 l year 2000 Dodge Grand caravan Auto sticks the es version do the overhead valves on those motors also have to have a motor mount that allows the motor to move just a little bit up and down like the 3.3 ultra drive caravan does the motor mount stay pin down locked tight or does it go on the other setting that allows it to move just a little bit called a hydraulic or some other word I forget forgot my other question I'll get back to you when I remember
Well, here we are back with the same old problem. I had to try your advice and try the MoPar stuff but it doesn't work. I had a Borg Warner in it and it did the same thing. I used a BW in my 2002 minivan and it works as it should. The factory one leaking was the reason for the change. I replaced all the internal components that were known to cause problems wit no change in performance. Kind of thinking that the TCU might be at fault. It is OBD-1 so trying to find a transmission code reader for that year would be an exercise in futility. Reman TCUs are available but there is no way of knowing who to trust. Anyway, thanks for the tip, had to try. Electronic stuff can do some neat things but they sure are a headache when their little brain goes belly up.
Remove computer, open it, look for bad capacitors. Some have a memory battery, and it can ruin the bio chip. If it has ABS the sensors may be bad which can also screw with the transmission.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I'm going to check the circuitry first. Also the 2 relays that are connected to the TCM. I have 3 salvage yard TCMs and after installing the MoPar shift solenoid 1 of them worked fine for about 5 stop & go trials. Trans shifted fine, no problems until one stop produced the bump stop thing then it started shifting crazy, mostly stayed in limp home mode. The other 2 will not function much at all. Since that one TCM worked fine for a few stop & go trials I'm leaning toward some sort of electrical issue. The car is an immaculate survivor. 93 with 56K miles. I'm determined to get it running properly. I'll take one of the modules apart & check the capacitors. Have you had any experience with the reman units that are available? The vehicle doesn't have ABS so that possibility is off the list. I have had a TPS give transmission problems on my 2002 minivan. It was an aftermarket one & part of the split line on the TPS body wasn't sealed properly, first time I ran through some water on a rainy day I started having transmission shift problems & driveability issues with the engine. Got one from NAPA & the problem went away. I'll keep you informed.
Get a new as possible salvaged Trans Module harness plug, and replace the one on the module. You may want to do the same for the speed and trans position sensors. Sounds like you may have actual harness issues with your stating the "run fine, then not" results. That a symptom of pins failing in the plug to something. When new item is plugged in, before a heat cycle, it may work fine, then not. A plymouth of the same year had better harness plugs in them, made by Electrolux back in the day, pre 1995. I have even taken needle nose and pushed each wire down to make better contact into the plugs to find the problem.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 It would be easier to replace the entire wiring harness than replacing the plug. There are a bunch of wires going to that, a bunch. Plug & TCM appear to be in fine condition. I removed the cover on one of the TCMs & they are sealed with some sort of gel so gaining access to any of the internal electronics would be impossible without destroying the device. I have pulled up the wiring diagram so that I can do some checks. Going to replace the relays & see if that is any help. Still leaning toward an electronic issue. I have had experience trying to get an old Apple Macintosh computer working. According to those in the business of restoring those old things (actually a hobby) the electronic parts (resistors, capacitors) will fail simply due to age and not use. While searching for them on the internet I have noticed a lot of the TCMs for sale on E-bay, mostly used ones. That is an indication that they fail. Demand says something. Still plugging away. Is there a transmission code reader that can read OBD-1 systems?
I have a 1990 Chrysler Le baron that I've been running the wrong fluid just a universal fluid that was before I knew they take atf +4 I've had the fluid changed professionally once or twice it'll slip from 3rd to 4th but it shifts really hard and a lot of times won't shift how hard is it to pull the transmission yourself or is it more worth it to take it to a shop I have a transmission jack but I have all the other tools
How would I know this needs replacing? My 2001 3.3L dodge caravan has a delay shift when shifting into third gear. It shifts but takes it’s sweet time which is really annoying when you’re on the highway and need to go over 45mph. Possibly a solenoid getting stuck? No check engine light on.
I don't have any check engine lights on or anything like that but my light around my drive is supposed to go off when I'm in overdrive the circle around the d or the square around the the drive is supposed to go off when it's in overdrive when you get the button on the end and my auto stick lights are not coming on anymore when I'm at the very end with the shifter the light does not show that it is on auto stick mode so if a stranger was to start my vehicle and not realize that they were in Auto stick mode because it just shows that drive is only thing lit up they would not know the difference and they would potentially be able to wear out my first gear by not knowing to automatically shift and even though it has some Fail-Safe s*** I'm still wondering what or why is there a separate button for the overdrive to work that allows the circle to go off of the d that's what lets you know supposedly that you're in overdrive for the es model as I described above please get back to me and thank you
2006 Stratus won't go reverse or shift proper in drive, now it won't move at all but it feels like it goes into drive but it won't move. Is this the same thing or worse?
Great video pal ( specially the music : )) !!! Just one question, the new ground wire from the solenoid pack goes to the battery or it is screwed down directly to the body? Thanks
I put a ring terminal from one of the bolts on the solenoid pack and run the wire to the negative on the battery. It make sure that lack of ground in Chryslers is covered. Seems to have made major differences in assuring 12+ volts at those relays.
Cool, thanks!! Gonna fix my solenoid pack Sunday. South Florida is flooded and all this water made my transmission go to limp mode. Thanks again for the advice !!
I watched you're video with great interest can a transmission solenoid click? also please go in to more detail on how to attach the ground wire to help with rough idling because that is what I have changed the spark plugs and the EGR valve. I have a 1993 dodge dynasty with a 3.3 liter engine LE
There are a few ground straps on the engine going to the firewall, the unibody near the radiator and from the fender to the transmission. The most troublesome is corrosion on the one on the firewall. Take a 8 awg wire, put terminals on it and run it from the negative on the battery to a bolt on the manifold in the easiest way you can. Idle air control sensors are also problematic on these causing the injectors to under perform.
Hey John I did this repair on my sons 89 Dynasty as in the vid with the extra grounds. Unfortunately it still won't shift out of 2nd. It used to try and would on occasion before. Made me think grounds. I used the parts in the link you provided. Any other ideas I might try before a trans rebuild (which the car isn't worth). Thanks for the vids you post. Norm
+Norm Johns Sounds like you have trash in your system. Usually a ground up O ring from the filter. Gets in the tiny screens at the solenoid ports. Pull it, flip it over and see if there is little bits in the cone shaped filter screens. Careful with them, replace them after cleaning 1 at a time.
My 97 eclipse did the same thing .. Bad trans/motor mount fixed it right away never slipped or jumped gears or refused to shift after that.. 12.00 part.
Hello mr John 😇🤝. I really need your help. I purchased a new mopar shift solenoid off of eBay for my 1991 Chrysler New Yorker. 3.3 liter. I decided to get a new one because the shifting was getting very erratic. So when I received the new one it came in a oily clear bag with the 2 sensors. I put everything on correctly , but when I first get on the the road it shifts excellent 😇. But when after a while , when I 🛑 stop at a sign. It shifts into the safety mode you speak of.(just stays in that gear) Made sure the fluid was topped off correctly, sensors are all in place, where do I go from here? I changed the transmission fluid and filter gasket 1yr ago. I didn’t spray electrical cleaner on the connector or the solenoid outlet? Could it be the electrical plug-in? Or just a bad part? If I get on the road can I damage the trans by trying to make it home if it slips into that safety mode?😳? Your help would be so much appreciated 😇❤️❤️❤️🤝🤝🤝🤝🚗
Seems you need to clean the filters and replace the trans fluid. I always insist on this due to trash causing this symptom in a new shift module due to increased flow brings up junk. Remove module, look for something in the poly cone filters in its ports, clear it with tweezers, replace transmission fluid and filter, re-install. Use only mopar 3 or 4 fluid.
This sounds like what recently happened to my 2014 Chrysler T&C. Took it to dealer and scanned codes P0780 and P0734 gear ration in 4th. They recommend new trans $4600. Had it towed home. I noticed it leaked fluid all over the tow truck bed. Not sure what to do yet. Any recommendations?
I have a 97 dodge intrepid 3.5 I had the code P 0700 it was the TCM I replaced it my was inside the transmission with the low and high sensor, transmission filter and oil but still in limp mode
Just bought a 1992 Dodge caravan. My transmission is doing this. But now my gages on the dash quit working and they were fine. Any idea what's going on. thanks
Hi there, I have a 1991 Chrysler New Yorker fifth Avenue, it has the the 41-TE. Between 25-45 miles per hour at times in down shifting the car will jump into limp mode when it’s been driven for awhile and the electronic vehicle information center or (EVIC) cluster will say “Low transmission pressure” and will go into service limp mode (stuck in second gear) and will remain in limp mode until it’s restarted or let sit to cool down for a bit. I’ve been told my silonoid pack may be going out but im wondering if you know any other possible things to check. I’ve already replaced my speed input sensors
Have an issue with a 2007 sebring going into limp mode when the transmission temp sensor stops reading correctly (-3 degrees F always). Trans temp sensor is built into the range sensor on this one. Have to remove the valve body. Not a fun job. Never would have caught the issue without good scan data.
Alignment on the front, chassis check on both. At that age, have the rubber mounting parts examined on the rear axle, wear and rotting bushings can cause it to be misaligned but nothing other than that. Replacing the worn rear axle parts fixes any such concern there. On those cars, the camber is a major issue, replacing the front struts and then taking it in for a alignment is smart. The steering on them due to age can be messy, you can get a complete kit ( struts, tie rods, upper and lower assembly and steering track kit for about $450
Just towed my 2003 Grand Caravan Sport home on a trailer. I noticed that for a while it seemed not to know what gear it wanted to be in when I pull out and get the van moving, but would then drive as it should. Then, while on the Turn Pike it started acting up and shuttering at highway speed. We pulled over and let it cool down to see if that would help but then it would not go into reverse, it did go into drive but only for about twenty feet and lost drive also. We still don't have reverse but it will go into drive for a short bit and go out again. I performed a typical trans filter and fluid change just before the trip and it was fine for about 250 miles or so before the trouble started. I haven't seen anyone explain a shuttering problem while driving. Am I looking at a different problem or a major transmission rebuild that is not worth it?
Did you do the Fluid/Filter change? Thats the biggest question. many people price shop down the transmission fluids and do not use genuine AFT4+ in them. Usually in under 500 miles they need a new transmission. And some change it themselves and do not notice the oring still in the mount tube of the valve body for the filter which gets pulled into the pump and shredded up, blocking the micro screens in the shift solenoid.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I did the filter and fluid myself. The fluid was the correct type, no mistake. I did have trouble with the filter staying in place but I am now not sure the old o ring was on the old filter. I remember a loose o ring but cant quite remember that whole procedure now. So I'm lost as to what to do. Is it junk ? Should I drop the pan and find anything? Do I try the solenoid and sensors. Do I sell as is. Oh, that sucks to know I might have killed it.
If your transmission is the 604 then yes. In that link you get the canadian made version from a seller on ebay, he or she can definitely answer your question. Go to the link, and at the site you can go down and see ASK SELLER A QUESTION. I know it fits a sundance thats like your sebring.
+Јоhn “HEADSMASHER” Daniel I went to the link and checked it out and in the description it says it's only for the dohc engines but that doesn't really make sense to me since it's not a engine part but a transmission part. and I do have the a604 as well
If its a 4 speed, A604 then the kit in the link fits it unless its some All Wheel Drive model. Never seen it not work. go to the link i put on there, then compare your car to the parts you see. A different solenoid pack will have a very obvious change in looks. Just be sure to do a hard drive test and a gentle drive test, about 5 miles in all to reset the computers parameters going through all gears and then disconnect the battery for over night with the head lights on when you do it to drop storage voltage below 7 volts in the CPU. Even then it will not drive perfect till about 4-5 more cycles of normal daily driving but it does restore the car to perfect order. AND, NEVER put cheap Tranny Fluid in these. ONLY Mopar ATF 4+ no kidding. And my suggestion, at 500 miles suction out all you can and add back to level more new ATF4+ mopar to get higher new fluid content. Fluid like the one I show in the video.
I need help please. I overhauled my 41TE of 1997 DGC (270K km). I replaced all plates, clutches, rings, clean/flush the solenoid body, torque converter, except to re-use the old solenoid pack. I tested this SP and the ohms is good within specs. I decided not to replace (just total flush) as I thought I can still replace this if the low shift bump will persist later (as this is an external part). The bump never go away after the overhaul but there's no code. After running some +300km. I decided to replace the SP pack with brand new Wagner. The van works well smoothly during road test but reverts to its old bumps today just after some 50 km. What else should I need to check/do to remove the bumps. I understand the bump will start to erase all the spline of the planetary gear as I found out in the overhaul. (I replaced this part too on the overhaul). Thank you for time in advance.
Do you have new speed sensors? Have you done a full computer diagnosis on the CPU? These will tend to have the main computer storing driving habits and tend to replicate them even improper actions.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Yes John I installed new speed sensors, but not the full CPU diagnosis. This is the one thing I have not done yet so yes I will and let you know. Thanks for your reply John. More power to you eh.
so, i got a 90 dynasty and the forward drive works fine, no issues, but the reverse works when it wants to, 1 out of every 5 times when i put it into reverse it works, what would you prescribe, i flushed the transmission and did the fluid+filter less than 2 months ago and still 1/5 times it works, 3.0 L a604 or 41TE, what ever you wanna call that trans, love the car but dont wanna buy a new trans for it.
Sounds like the Neutral safety Park switch or the solenoid. There is a switch in the system that lets power go to the reverse valve to let pressure feed in. Luckily for you, a dead transmission is not what you have, a sensor or other basic electrical issue is what your dealing with. Take it to 3 or 4 SHOPS for a bid on the repair, a WRITTEN BID describing work to be done, parts it needs and hours to do the job. For one, 2 of the 4 will lie to you about the work, but from your effort you will get free trouble shooting done, and then get back with me for a HOW TO DIY!
You can search by part number or call a Oreillys Auto store and they can get them. You just cut the old connector off and using butt connectors replace the damaged plug by copying the wires to the new one. Generally the replacement plug will have about 6 inches of wires on it.
John - Mine is a 2006 3.8 with 170,000 miles. It started dropping from drive to neutral after stopping at stop signs. Now, it does it when going slow. In both cases it revs up when accelerating due to falling out of drive to neutral. The shifter doesn't move to neutral though. It will then go back in gear either from manually moving the shifter or after turning it off and back on. I also hear a faint clicking sound that occurs when gears are shifted. The sound matches vibrations felt from the transmission control pack. Do you think these symptoms are inline with the control pack and speed sensors?
+Justin Mitchell I would verify transmission model first. However the most likely culprit of the way yours is acting is low voltage either in the in tire system or the ground strap to the engine. Very few completely throw themselves out of gear, most just refuse to shift up from first or second.
Hello John i have a 2000 Dodge Caravan 3.3L all of a sudden my reverse stopped working now when i put reverse it jerks when i accelerate but all my shifts in drive work fine. would this be the same case for my Caravan?
What noises is it making, is it disengaging or letting loose as it tries to reverse. If so check the drive shafts (CV joints). A clicking noise and jerking would be CV joints, brakes hanging up or if it's a 4 wheel drive model it would be transfer case falling. Not common but also likely is solenoid port filters failing.
Hi what are the 5 or 6 bolts right under the solenoid pack? I saw that they were out so I tightened them up which I’m thinking now if that was a good idea. From top view with the solenoid pack out you can see the bolts/screw right below gasket area.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I have another person in another forum telling me they should not be touched. That they are transmission pressure test ports. Which I could send you a pic.
If they're on the bottom of that shift module, that plate covers the filters and solenoid valves. They don't have a pressure test port that I know of, the Mitsubishi version of the transmission does.
I have a friend with a 2000 Dodge Neon that has a funny 2/3 shift, and your kit doesn't cover this model. Would you have another link that has this model?
Many times they have a inaccurate or out of parameter speed sensor ( amzn.to/3dsKyHD for 2000 L4 engine and auto trans on Neons) that can cause that, I would defeinitely run codes on it too. Depending on miles it can also just be the accelerator / injector to transmission shift link being dried out see this vid ( ua-cam.com/video/c_43YJ-wChc/v-deo.html ) and at last it may be the torque converter solenoid amzn.to/2wCbvYP
great video i have a daytona with the 604 wont go into 3rd or 4th it goes from first to 2nd fine then when it shifts to 3rd it acts like it slips into nuetral could this be my issue as well ?
+Victoria Clark That's the most consistent symptoms for sure of a pack fail. That's why I put links to get the entire kit and sensors for 100 bucks on here. Few have any idea you can do this so easy.
So, my 2005 Grand Caravan 3.8 liter with 200K has a weird issue with check engine. Everything is fine, no shifting problems at all, but when I go on the hwy over 50 mph for maybe 10 minutes the check engine light comes on. Still no shifting problems. I got a 0700 code when I checked it. The light will go off after a day or 2 and won't come back on unless I do the hwy again. It has been doing this for about a year, but still no driving or shifting issues. Faulty sensor?
i have 1993 dodge caravan was at stop light went to take off it went into neutral.shut key off turned back on drove it few miles did it again same thing shut it off restarted and drove 100 miles home and drove for several more months .it finally quit all together got used shift solenoid been driving it for that last 6 months.then all at once was going down road and jerked a few time then went into neutral again shut key off and it moved again but was jerking and jumping and making noise thought motor was coming out of it.but now start it will move for maybe 1/2 mile then goes back 2 neutral and also drove it prob a mile in first gear then back 2 neutral has no reverse at all.it has diffrent gasket then the 1 you have listed .i have a picture of it but dont know how to post it .any help would be greatly appericated
Sounds like a coroded ground wire or ground strap from the chassis to the engine or transmission. Secondly, the other option is battery voltage, start the car, and test the voltage at the battery after you start it. Note the voltage, they must be running at 12.8+ volts or all kinds of havoc can occur. I have seen many a weak alternator and or battery cause similar symptoms. So if your testing voltage, after the car starts then test it, then while running turn on all items in the van ( headlights, radio, blower Air conditioner) and again test the voltage. If your getting way under 12.8 or are very close to 12.8 your transmission will not get enough power and it will fault, fail, and so as you describe.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 put valve back on run ground from it to the batt then run another one from the body to the motor .then started it turned wipers stereo heater lights etc on check charging was 13 and more.put in gear no reverse move forward but making whining noise kind like its not all the way in gear
I would go with the full kit that includes the 2 sensors and new solenoid pack. Verify you do have the A604 41TE transmission, 4 speed ( 3 with OD) and get the complete kit, ebay.to/2BAxMrQ AND MOST IMPORTANT refill with AFT+4 fluid. NOTHING LESS!!!! Depending on a used Shift pack is not the best option, they have a huge fail rate due to the tiny filters, differing fluid factors and the unknown actual use. ATF+4 is not cheap, but its the only option and to save $20 on fluid, you spend $2500 on a transmission.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 this all started close to a year ago i took it to transmission shop they told me they thought it was electrical short cost me small fortune for them to call me back and say they couldnt find any shorts that it was the solenoid pack and wold be another 300 bucks i told them just forget it and went picked it up.then went to junk yrd got 1 put it on didnt work so ordered brand new 1 it didnt work .but then noticed when took the new 1 off the gasket was covering the holes.i looked and looked tring to find the right valve and never did so finaly found used 1 at first it didnt have any reverse but then later it kicked in .well anyway would love to buy new 1 and be done but cant find the 1 i need it is the 4 spped with the circle around the d it does not have the adapter plate with the 2 gaskets ,its the valve and 1 gasket everything i find is like the link you sent me and that 1 dont match mine i have a pic of the gasket but dont no how to post a pic of it,ps thanks for your time it is very much appericated as this hole deal is very aggrevating
If the gasket is covering the holes, its flipped. Put the gasket on and note the holes exposed, if they are not, flip it till they do. Chrysler only made one 4 speed transmission body for all 66 vehicles from 1989 to 2015. It would be impossible for the unit in the link above not to fit unless someone has changed the transmission out with something unheard of.
Is this setup an overdrive type transmission, I have a 1992 Lebaron with 2.5 turbo and 3 speed transmission. I cannot find the electronic shift solenoid in the trans but the parts places list my car as having one. Any ideas?
If it does not have the OD symbol on the selector then its a 3 speed, some were 3 speeds by dealer order on Turbo models. And if its not shifting correctly its a speed sensor or failing trans.
Just a cool Free tune from You Tube. Artist give a part of their work over for free use, that gets them noticed, and they hopefully go on to make money off their efforts. However, some give away a free tune, then years later have a crack habit and go complaining to try and get revenue off the song they gave away earlier. When that happens you can do like I do and immediately pull the song out and replace it using You Tube audio track editor.
Hello John, considering this possible fix. My 06 caravan consistently throws 700 and 740 once I reach a steady speed of 60 mph. Have you seen these three replacements with grounds fix these codes?
Sounds like speed sensor actually. But be sure to check the King of Corrosion Chrysler for grounding straps and wires with possible issues and remove-clean and reattach them.
PS - Is it 4 wheel ( all wheel ) drive? If so, try fully equalizing the tires. Air pressure in them, height of them important. Saw lots of codes from new tires on front, old tires on back 3/4" difference wreaking havoc!
Thanks for the quit reply. It's a plain base model with a 3.3. Thanks for the advice. I will change the two speed sensors and clear the code and see what I get.
I changed the two sensors and it still sets 700 and 740 after driving 14 to 20 miles at 60 mph or higher. Do you think replacing the module that's sold on ebay would help?
If shifting is consistent and not missing any gears then the module is ok. Seems like a possible wiring issue but being the issue happens when your running 60 mph then the most likely suspect is something to do with the Emissions. A fuel mixture item can cause the transmission to throw codes as well as a bad plug to your sensors on the transmission and or the throttle.
Hi John, 2000 Dodge Grand Caravan...3.3L....156K....runs,shifts good....PO 700,PO 740....one shop said Trans needs to be rebuilt....another mechanic said TCM....what's your opinion...please help!....
Speed Sensor feedback causing it. Replace the 2 sensors ( $30 ) and be careful to not cross thread. Then re-set computer by removing battery negative for 1 hour and then re-connect and see if the problem codes alter or go away.
mine's an 05 with the 40TE, the transmission shifts relatively fine, but 3 & 1 (below D) do absolutely nothing. I can start it, put it in 1 and get on the highway, it's no different in 3 or D.
Step one, change filter and be sure to do a full change with ATF+4 Synthetic type 9602 fluid ONLY. The newer ones had a pressure sensor that would put the transmission in a memory mode. While changing the transmission fluid disconnect the battery for no less than a hour to reset the computer. I usually turn on the headlights as I disconnect the battery to have a full wiring harness load to help drain the storage in the computer, you can and should also have all codes cleared at a auto parts store during this process. Only other common options are related to the trans shift linkage indicator or the Solenoid.
Anti Corrosion Warfare! These Chrysler products are tragic with electrolysis effect and chassis corrosion. Adding a extra wire to the body of the solenoid pack guarantees effective grounding.
Hey John, i have a 2010 dodge grand caravan and out of the blue one day my van started shifting crazy after i went pass 2nd gear. However, i took it to advance auto and the codes manifested that i had a incorrect gear ratios for gears 4,5, and 6. However, once i got pass 2nd it would jump to 4 and would jump back down to 2. Sometimes pass 3 it would rev up high. What is this? please help
+Coaching From.A.New.Perspective Disconnect the car battery for 24 hours. Reconnect then cycle the key off to on to off 6 times. Do not start van, just to on position. Disconnect battery again for a few minutes then reconnect it, start van and take out on road running it hard through a few cycles of hwy and city. This normally will cause a reprogram of the torque/tow issue your having or produce a code very accurate to a failing part such as the shift load sensor which determines if van is light enough in load to skip gears to increase fuel economy.
OK, i will try it tomorrow, its parked at my moms house right now.. A guy on my job told me to do something similar (disconnect the negative(black) cable for 5 minutes) and the check engine light went off :) and now it acted like it didn't want to shift out of 1st gear. So i went back around the block and i disconnected the negative cable like he told me and it shifted back to 1st , then 2nd gear but it started shifting crazy again. Overall, i believe and trust you are on to something because this happen out of the blue, that's why i believe its something dealing with the program. Thanks man, i will give you the updates. God Bless You!
+michaels mikes Sounds like you should check your alternator. See if your voltage is 14 volts when at idle and at 1500 rpms. Could be a low voltage effect, I have seen this on a few dodges. The solenoids holding power and the control box hates anything under 13 volts.
+michaels mikes If your in a high corrosion area then also check all wiring and ground points. Add a ground from battery, change speed sensors and make damn sure you put ATF4 in it or better grade trans fluid.
John got a 2005 dodge caravan the computer went out got a used one from eBay with same matching numbers. Installed and started right up. Ran it and gave me a p0846 code says transmission fluid pressure sensor on obd2. Can it be the part your showing or just a sensor don't really know where sensor can be on this year. Or can the PCM come with that code just showing? Your response would be appreciated my friend.
+Phil Sanchez You could have a default setting that is in the computer, they do adjust parameters over time. So the original van it was in could have been driven hard and the computer will need a reset at the dealer. Or your transmission filter or fluid channels are plugged up enough to be above the last parameters of your failed computer. Then a filter and flush is needed.
Hello Јохн Даниел ..my 1997 plymouth voyager SE all of a sudden started making scraping sound and slips when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear...it is a 6 cylinder 3.0L ....would this repair be worth trying??..I took it to a transmission mechanic and he wants $1700 to overhaul it...my van isnt even worth that much.....please advise...thank you
Thats a typical sign your solenoid pack is failing. I put a link in to find them below my video. Be sure to disconnect your battery during the change out.
Ok great...thank you Јохн Даниел .....it sounds then that its at least worth a try before expensive repair etc...should I also combine your video procedure with transmission oil drain (not flush)..filter replacement and consider some kind of transmission oil additive so as to assist worn transmission??.....transmission is due for oil and filter replacement (does it use oil filter unit or just screen type unit that just needs cleaning but not replacing)??....thank you again...
Sounds like your Transmission input output sensors are fooling the computer into stopping the solenoid from engaging reverse. You can still get into drive, forward on limp home mode, but it will get worse as the computer learns from bad sensor feedback. Replace them, its cheap to do. amzn.to/2p0qbqL Fits your Van
Remove battery power to car while headlights are on to drain the computer capacitor then turn everything off and reconnect battery. Drive car aggressively for a few miles, recheck codes. Report your results back to me.
Do a TCM reset, get in the car turn the ignition to the on position but not start. All your lights on the dash will light up like you're about to hit the starter, push your gas pedal all the way to the floor and then turn off the ignition key while you're holding the gas pedal down to the floor. Let sit for 5+ minutes key in but in off position. That process will tell the computer that an overload has been faulted and it'll reset itself unless there's something otherwise seriously wrong. The only other option is a faulty or bad speed sensor or shift indicator issue. After you do the reset I'm driving around like you normally would so that it retrains itself.
Last option is Dodge dealer. But if you can get a local garage to clear TCM codes, it's drastically cheaper. What happened is your TCM learned bad habits as the solenoid was failing. Now, it's confused, and still applying attempted fixes to the new solenoid.
i have a 2003 Chrysler Concorde when i slow down from hi speed the car shifts into low and then dont up shift what do you think the problem is thanks scott
Does anybody know anything about the metal plate in between the solenoid pack and the transmission originally had to gaskets in a metal plate spacer in between the two gaskets and a transmission and solenoid pack
+Andrew Stout they say that the new solenoid packs are 2.5 mm taller and the filters that they use the inserted filters are a little different so you don't need the metal plate anymore on these modifications
Not usually. They seem to self program after a while of driving. What you do is 3 cycles of PUSH IT HARD driving making it shift all through the ranges then stop, key off and out, then do it again driving conservatively though all gears 3 times then key off and out, then disconnect the battery while the headlights are on, let sit a few hours then reconnect and it will start automatic cycling of the programming from use.
Thanks for the great video. My symptom is on a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan with175K miles that is repeatedly throwing P0700 and P0740 codes for the possible torque converter or TCC solenoid not locking up which causes problems come smog testing time here in CA, otherwise the van is perfectly drivable (albeit maybe not getting as good a mpg as it should...). But it's a relatively easy and cheap possible solution that seems can't really hurt since replacing the torque converter or TCC solenoid means removing the transmission altogether - $$$$... BTW - There's talk in other videos of possibly having to perform a "quick learn" procedure when changing the valve solenoid pack, others say not so and that the transmission control unit will learn over time and adjust itself to the new valves. And this 'quick learn' thing is something only a dealer or transmission shop with the right scan tool can do, if you can get them to do it for you... Another video suggests blowing the ATF out of the valve solenoid mounting bolt holes on the transmission - a very messy proposition on the one closest to the engine since it refills with oil as fast as you can blow it out... I of course ignored your links and purchased a valve solenoid pack and speed sensors from Amazon for the fast free delivery. While the speed sensors work fine, the valve solenoid pack was another story altogether. Like I said it was cheap though, like $69 with the gasket. I installed the valve solenoid pack, even added the ground wire you recommended; not a terribly difficult or even particularly messy job. However, on restarting van it wouldn't go into gear at all and was throwing all kinds of transmission related OBDII codes. Arghhh... So, I let the van cool down a few hours and removed the 'new' valve solenoid pack and reinstalled the original (after having to drive to the local Dodge dealership to pay far too much for another gasket...). And the van once again runs and goes into gear fine again (well, as fine as it ever did...). The good news being that the defective part and associated install, uninstall, reinstall process at least didn't make the van worse than when I started. The good thing about buying the defective part from Amazon... Free Returns at the local Kohl's store. I guess the next step is to pony up the few extra dollars and buy a remanufactured part from your recommended source. As always the adage of 'Never time to do it right the first time, but plenty of time to do it twice' applies...
I do a lot of research before I post a link to a item. Actual source, actual feedback and actual ratings. But many do the save $25 thing and then post on here how they had problems. Knock offs are about 75% of the auto parts market. As for the Re-assigning the computer, to do that its a simple process you can do. But first, DO NOT go cheap on the kit again. Filter, ATF4 mopar fluid and module. The re-assigning process requires you Remove and replace the trans module with battery positive disconnected, but you must turn on the lights on the van when you disconnect positive battery. That way the capacitors in the computer are drained of power to help the process. Step 2 after you do the reinstall you allow the van to reach full idle temperature, check fluid engine idling at 700 to 800 in park. Final Fill only to just 1/16" under the mark. Then you will take it out to drive it, first is a slow to 0-60-0 mph allowing all gears to shift at lowest (highest economy) shift points, repeat 3 times. Now, shut off van, then restart and do a pushed performance run to 0-60-0, 3 times pushing it to shift harder but don't get radical. Then you will have the parameters set. Start driving normal and in about 2 days the computer should have learned its settings to be best useable. If this process does not make it more drivable you can save money by contacting NAPA Auto Parts, ask for their referral to a non Chrysler alternative and they usually have a recommended local shop that will flash and reset all computer functions for $50. If your van has 175K on it, I deeply recommend a complete flush you can do of your radiator and cooling system, its the killer of the Dodge engines, just do a cold flush, drain and refill.
Sounds like a possible low voltage issue. For both the solenoid and torque converter to show a fault that is usually a bad battery or alternator. Check the battery voltage on the car. Check it before you start the car, write it down, then start the car with multimeter still connected and see if the alternator is charging the battery up to 14 volts as it sits and idles for a few minutes. If your driving voltage goes below 12.4 volts your cars computer will not allow proper shifts since the valving is electrical. These cars may do this when the car battery is weak and summer heat running air conditioner draws too much power.
This Dodge Journey is very bad vehicle with so many computer and electrical issues. Most issues are due to bad alternator, fuel pump failing and pulling too much voltage power, people installing large stereo amplifier pulling too much voltage power and if over 125,000 miles solenoid failure also.
GO HERE FOR about $130, Get it ALL & do it once amzn.to/3TpOXlQ ( 2007 and newer style 6 speed versions amzn.to/3TngdkF )THE ONLY GENUINE PARTS B & W Complete kit, the most look the same, but are knock offs from China! ALWAYS USE ATF 4+, STP brand preferred!!!! ( click on SHOW MORE for Vehicle List)
**APPLICATIONS: 87% of all 1988 to 2012 Dodge-Plymouth-Chrysler-Eagle Products
Dodge 1989 to 2011 ALL 4 Spd FWD
Breeze 1996-2006 L4 2.0L 2.4L 4 Spd FWD
Cirrus 1995-2006 L4 2.4L; V6 2.5L 4 Spd FWD
Fifth Avenue 1993 V6 3.3L 4 Spd FWD
Imperial 1990-1993 V6 3.3L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD
LeBaron 1990-1995 V6 3.0L 4 Spd FWD
New Yorker 1989-1993 V6 3.0L 3.3L 4 Spd FWD
Pacifica 2004-2008 V6 3.5L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD AWD
PT Cruiser 2001-2011 L4 2.4L 4 Spd FWD
Sebring 1995-2010 L4 2.0L 2.4L DOHC 4 Spd FWD
Sebring 1995-2010 V6 2.7L 3.0L 4 Spd FWD
Sundance 1993-1994 V6 3.0L 4 Spd FWD
Talon 1995-2000 L4 2.0L; V6 2.5L 4 Spd FWD
Town & Country 1989-2007 V6 3.0L 3.3L 3.4L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD AWD
Town & Country 2008-2011 V6 3.3L 4 Spd FWD AWD
Voyager 1995-2007 L4 2.4L 4 Spd FWD
Voyager 2008-2010 V6 3.3L 4 Spd FWD
Voyager 1995-2007 V6 3.0L 3.3L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD
Grand Voyager 1997-1998 V6 3.8L 4 Spd AWD
Avenger 1995-2011 L4 2.0L 2.4L DOHC 4 Spd FWD
Avenger 1995-2010 V6 2.7L 3.0L 4 Spd FWD
Caravan 1990-2007 L4 2.4L 2.5L 4 Spd FWD AWD
Caravan 1990-2007 V6 3.0L 3.3L 3.8L 4 Spd FWD AWD
Caravan 2008-2011 V6 3.3L 4 Spd FWD AWD
Journey 2009-2011 L4 2.4L; V6 2.7L 4 Spd FWD AWD
Neon 2002-2005 L4 2.0L; V6 2.4L 4 Spd FWD
Spirit 1989-1995 L4 2.5L; V6 3.0L 4 Spd FWD
Stratus 1995-2007 L4 2.0L 2.4L DOHC 4 Spd FWD
Stratus 1995-2007 V6 2.5L 2.7L 4 Spd FWD
Eclipse 1995-1998 L4 2.0L Non-Turbo 4 Spd FWD
I did the filter and fluid myself. The fluid was the correct type, no mistake. I did have trouble with the filter staying in place but I am now not sure the old o ring was on the old filter. I remember a loose o ring but cant quite remember that whole procedure now. So I'm lost as to what to do. Is it junk ? Should I drop the pan and find anything? Do I try the solenoid and sensors. Do I sell as is. Oh, that sucks to know I might have killed it.
I did the filter and fluid myself. The fluid was the correct type, no mistake. I did have trouble with the filter staying in place but I am now not sure the old o ring was on the old filter. I remember a loose o ring but cant quite remember that whole procedure now. So I'm lost as to what to do. Is it junk ? Should I drop the pan and find anything? Do I try the solenoid and sensors. Do I sell as is. Oh, that sucks to know I might have killed it.
@@robinheaton2161 Remove the solenoid, flip it over and look into the tiny filters on the ports, if they are clogged VERY carefully remove them, clean them out very carefully and re install it. You may experience the effect again as particles plug them up again though and have to repeat the procedure. If the filter had problems staying in, it could have fell in the pan or came loose enough its starving the trans pump of fluid too. The last option is a give up and trash it option.
I just did this on a 2002 Caravan, it worked. I got the parts from your source for $118, every thing was as you represented but there was a lot less room to work in the Caravan! Thanks for the video, as I said, it worked.
What was going on with your transmission? Was it slipping?
I appreciate you putting that link down below. I just got done taking solenoid pack off my 93 Chrysler Lebaron 3.0 All the information you've given is Godsend, Thank you so much. I'm also adding that ground wire.
i havei have a 2009 chrysler town and country with the 62TE 6 speed automatic transmission and the 3.8 V-6 engine. it went into limp mode a couple of months ago and threw the code PO76A SHIFT SOLENOID H MALFUNCTION. it will not shift into the higher gears. but when i pull over and stop the van and put it into park and shut it off then restart it then it will shift into all gears just fine for about 3 blocks up to 10 blocks then it will drop back into limp mode. i have changed the fluid and filter. no change. i have been told to change the solenoid pack and that will fix the problem. i would really like your opinion on this issue. the TCM is located in the drivers side wheel well. HOW STUPID is that. an area where water can get onto the connections. WHAT DO YOU THINK ?
Yours has weak valves, the Reman is under $150 so yes, replace it. amzn.to/3TngdkF *Only get a reman from DJ TRANS or you can get screwed by a scrapper scammer!* Be sure to clean the heck out of the entire area, then remove old one, some trans fluid will make a mess, so pan it. And ONLY use ATF4+ on a mopar trans, not multi or any other stuff. Your trans is building load/line pressure on the back of failing solenoid valves, the computer sees it as fail, so it puts you in limp mode. I recommend a full trans fluid change and filter kit so consider it at the same time.
I have a neighbor who has a 2007 Chrysler Sebring that she believes has a transmission issue it only has 70,000 miles on it she likes the car and thinks it's smarter to go buy another used car instead of replacing her Transmission in this one to me that didn't make much sense since if it is transmission issue that would be cheaper than buying another used car to carry a loan and who knows what headaches you might tackle or take on with another unknown use car so I was trying to research some things on the internet to find out why when she drives the car she can't drive it over 40 miles per hour and I've run into some limp mode and electrical issues and a couple of different things and then I saw this video which seems very specific talking about ground wires and reds and I did see cell annoyed in another video but nothing like your video State I really like some feedback on if this will help her problem or how I can pass along information to her to get past her husband and the mechanic that told her to go buy another used car instead if neither one of them understand it could just be this repair is all that would be needed thank you for any feedback you can offer the videos fantastic
With 9 out of 10 transmission shops being 100% unethical and willing to rip off customers I would do a process of taking the car for computer code checks at a few auto parts stores first. A 2007 Sebring should go 160,000 miles before needing a transmission on average. The ground cluster on drivers strut tower where there is a group of ground wires going to chassis from the engine tends to have a problem with wire breaks in the location where the wire goes into the terminal lugs, taking a piece of wire and jumping it from the battery to the engine can show that may be a consideration. Low ground reaction to the Control Module does cause the computer to default to limp home. Big consideration for your friend, with the Covid19 virus thing going on, people are dumping cars onto used lots that are rolling catastrophes in the effort to try and make a dollar, she's likely to get a desperate used car sold by a broke and desperate person! Fix the 2007 for sure.
Same exact problem with my mother's car. I've not dug into it yet, but it will not shift out of 1st gear. Going to try the ground first, then cleaning the harness plug/receptacle. She just had an engine put in, so I'm thinking probably a ground issue, or the trans control module. I wish you, and myself, luck in fixing.
Hi John,
I have Export build Chrysler Sebring 2002 Sedan 2.0L Dohc 141hp. It has 173 000 km (roughly 106k miles). Transmission shifts every time good, but every 60-70miles I get P0700 & P0740 errors. I have replaced the timming belt on 100 000 miles and since then the engine stalls sometimes when I start it, sometimes on reverse when I press a little bit the gas pedal and release it. Before the timming belt change I did not have any problems with the engine. Also I feel like a kick when I press slightly the break pedal and the transmission shifts from 4th to 3rd or from 3rd to 2nd gear. Initially the error codes begun in Germany, on a steep slope I tried to overpass one truck, but I was very heavy. In the car we were 5 guys + luggage. I press the gas pedal to the limit, from 4th it went to 3rd like normally, but when I passed the truck it continued to 3rd with 5000-5500rpm, I released the pedal a little bit, but it didn't shifted, the rpm dropped to 4500 and then it shifted. It needed 5 seconds from the moment I released the pedal to the gear shift. 1 minute later Check engine with those errors came up. I Changed the Transmission fluid and cleared the error codes, but when I go to the highway and drive for an hour they come back.
Now I think to replace the solenoid valve pack and do these ground wiring things that you suggest. Do you think this will fix the issues with the codes or not?
Thanks!
Greetings from Bulgaria.
Seems like your speed sensors and solenoid pack is having problems. I would also look at getting the computer re-flashed when they are replaced. And be absolutely sure you use ATF 4+ newest blend of transmission fluid, they are very picky. The timing belt change due to location of it during the work can also damage the cam position sensor which works in conjunction with the speed sensors and shift/torque point programming.
First off any vehicle made of metal will corrode no matter who makes it. On the limp home mode. If you momentarily turn off the ignition then turn it back on the trans will shift normally. There is another problem with the early years of those trans, the so called bump stop. When coming to a stop the trans takes a second or 2 to go into first causing a noticeable bump. The other problem is slow engagement when putting the trans into drive. I have recently rebuilt the trans in my 93 LeBaron, a low mileage car (57K). Still does the same thing. Rebuild was mainly due to age and the fact that it had been sitting in a garage for a long time. I have changed the hydraulic control unit (the one on the trans) & repalced the electronic unit (the one on the right fender). Also changed the 2 sensors and added extra grounds on the hydraulic & electronic unit. Haven't added the extra ground to the engine. The hydraulic control unit is mainly an electro/ hydraulic unit, no electronics just some electro magnets. I have replaced the electronic control with 3 separate salvage yard units & all 3 perform exactly the same. I replaced the 2 sensors with units that I located at a local transmission parts supply where I got the hydraulic control unit. Don't know the brand but they had the hyd unit in BW. I,m confident that the internals of the trans are solid so I'm leaning toward a piece of E-junk being the culprit, E-junk being some electronic device. They had a lot of problems with the early years of that trans. I will try to find the sensors you mention but doubt that will change much because when I changed out the originals there was no change. Any ideas on other things that could cause problems? It continues to do the bump stop & slow drive engagement thing. Any new ideas would be appreciated.
Mr Daniel😇❤️ should I use dielectric grease on the top of the solenoid? Where it connects? And what type of rtv sealant to use on the transmission pan? Is silicone ok or just permatex transmission sealant?
RTV black sensor safe, and yes dielectric is fine just not too heavy.
What causes a hesitation and slight thud when downshifting? From 2nd to 1st when nearly stopping. I put a PT cruiser transmission in a dodge neon, shifts fine the transmission could need more +4 fluid. Is that the prob?
im having same issue
John thanks for the info! my old 92 dynasty (A gift from my late mother) will be a pleasure to keep running showing all the symptoms that you reported on, I think she was scammed 6 years ago for same problems but anyway..... appreciate info just want to keep old beast going , you kept it simple THANK YOU!
+fred thornton Oh how I hate the goofy company of chrysler after they sold out to globalist handlers. But I loves me a C-body platform like the Dynasty. When the shit-in-a-can Neon came out, that was the last chrysler product I looked at.
Had a Plymouth Caravelle with the 2.6 mitsu motor, damn thing went 314,000 miles when most of the era blew up at 120k.
yeah, it's crazy John I make a round trip of 200 miles a day, don't want to wear out my Jeep so this fix should keep the old Dynasty going for a while longer! thanks again, the trusted repair manual never said a word about this fix, u-tube keeps this old guy with his old car going . take care Fred
I have a 1992 Chrysler LeBaron, it has 52,000 miles on it. I searched for months to find a Craigs list ad with "won't shift" attached to anything chrysler-dodge-plymouth-eagle and got it for $250!!!! Its a immaculate estate car from a one owner elderly lady. Pristine and all it needed was this done to it.
That makes 19 in 3 years I have found for $400 and less, fixed and resold to double + my money!
yep check easy things 1st....grounds are often a problem with all cars, can spray WD-40 on it for quick fix
Corrosion? Or what happens? Mine looks good and tight
john Daniel i have a 1991 dodge caravan 98k its have some trans issues its mostly on a dead stop and to get to a forward motion its really slow to get going but ones it gets going its fine
Replace trans filter, use only AFT+4 in it, no snake oil treatments! And have a code check done to see if the computer has stored codes related to EGR and O2 sensors to see if vacuum feedback is misreading.
Thanks so much! The P0765 is driving mr crazy. I have to try the ground wire trick. The previous owner installed a refurbished solenoid pack, so I don't believe that can be bad. The gasket is in horrible shape though.
i broke the trans cooler line any help on replacing them and getting a tool to extract them out of the housing
Thanks for the great Video. Question: Does the 1992 LeBaron have a DRB CODE connection?
I think so, but you should check with full schematics to assure it. Here is a close version to see if it may help www.allpar.com/posts/1085360651/
Our 97 town and country seems to pop into neutral even though it's in drive. This goes away when it warms up. Any thoughts on that? Cheers!
Sounds like low trans fluid or dirty filter. Only put ATF+4 in them.
Was wondering also on the OHV 3.8 l year 2000 Dodge Grand caravan Auto sticks the es version do the overhead valves on those motors also have to have a motor mount that allows the motor to move just a little bit up and down like the 3.3 ultra drive caravan does the motor mount stay pin down locked tight or does it go on the other setting that allows it to move just a little bit called a hydraulic or some other word I forget forgot my other question I'll get back to you when I remember
Well, here we are back with the same old problem. I had to try your advice and try the MoPar stuff but it doesn't work. I had a Borg Warner in it and it did the same thing. I used a BW in my 2002 minivan and it works as it should. The factory one leaking was the reason for the change. I replaced all the internal components that were known to cause problems wit no change in performance. Kind of thinking that the TCU might be at fault. It is OBD-1 so trying to find a transmission code reader for that year would be an exercise in futility. Reman TCUs are available but there is no way of knowing who to trust. Anyway, thanks for the tip, had to try. Electronic stuff can do some neat things but they sure are a headache when their little brain goes belly up.
Remove computer, open it, look for bad capacitors. Some have a memory battery, and it can ruin the bio chip.
If it has ABS the sensors may be bad which can also screw with the transmission.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I'm going to check the circuitry first. Also the 2 relays that are connected to the TCM. I have 3 salvage yard TCMs and after installing the MoPar shift solenoid 1 of them worked fine for about 5 stop & go trials. Trans shifted fine, no problems until one stop produced the bump stop thing then it started shifting crazy, mostly stayed in limp home mode. The other 2 will not function much at all. Since that one TCM worked fine for a few stop & go trials I'm leaning toward some sort of electrical issue. The car is an immaculate survivor. 93 with 56K miles. I'm determined to get it running properly. I'll take one of the modules apart & check the capacitors. Have you had any experience with the reman units that are available? The vehicle doesn't have ABS so that possibility is off the list. I have had a TPS give transmission problems on my 2002 minivan. It was an aftermarket one & part of the split line on the TPS body wasn't sealed properly, first time I ran through some water on a rainy day I started having transmission shift problems & driveability issues with the engine. Got one from NAPA & the problem went away. I'll keep you informed.
Get a new as possible salvaged Trans Module harness plug, and replace the one on the module. You may want to do the same for the speed and trans position sensors. Sounds like you may have actual harness issues with your stating the "run fine, then not" results. That a symptom of pins failing in the plug to something. When new item is plugged in, before a heat cycle, it may work fine, then not. A plymouth of the same year had better harness plugs in them, made by Electrolux back in the day, pre 1995. I have even taken needle nose and pushed each wire down to make better contact into the plugs to find the problem.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 It would be easier to replace the entire wiring harness than replacing the plug. There are a bunch of wires going to that, a bunch. Plug & TCM appear to be in fine condition. I removed the cover on one of the TCMs & they are sealed with some sort of gel so gaining access to any of the internal electronics would be impossible without destroying the device. I have pulled up the wiring diagram so that I can do some checks. Going to replace the relays & see if that is any help. Still leaning toward an electronic issue. I have had experience trying to get an old Apple Macintosh computer working. According to those in the business of restoring those old things (actually a hobby) the electronic parts (resistors, capacitors) will fail simply due to age and not use. While searching for them on the internet I have noticed a lot of the TCMs for sale on E-bay, mostly used ones. That is an indication that they fail. Demand says something. Still plugging away. Is there a transmission code reader that can read OBD-1 systems?
I have used a adapter ebay.us/pbGpcT for my 1993 that worked well to go from obd1 to 2
I have a 1990 Chrysler Le baron that I've been running the wrong fluid just a universal fluid that was before I knew they take atf +4 I've had the fluid changed professionally once or twice it'll slip from 3rd to 4th but it shifts really hard and a lot of times won't shift how hard is it to pull the transmission yourself or is it more worth it to take it to a shop I have a transmission jack but I have all the other tools
How would I know this needs replacing? My 2001 3.3L dodge caravan has a delay shift when shifting into third gear. It shifts but takes it’s sweet time which is really annoying when you’re on the highway and need to go over 45mph. Possibly a solenoid getting stuck? No check engine light on.
That's the beginning behavior of a failing solenoid pack, look below the video you'll see a link to the models that should fit that 2001
I did this to mine and it still is in limp mode. I got fed up and now its sitting at the transmission shop to be fixed.
I don't have any check engine lights on or anything like that but my light around my drive is supposed to go off when I'm in overdrive the circle around the d or the square around the the drive is supposed to go off when it's in overdrive when you get the button on the end and my auto stick lights are not coming on anymore when I'm at the very end with the shifter the light does not show that it is on auto stick mode so if a stranger was to start my vehicle and not realize that they were in Auto stick mode because it just shows that drive is only thing lit up they would not know the difference and they would potentially be able to wear out my first gear by not knowing to automatically shift and even though it has some Fail-Safe s*** I'm still wondering what or why is there a separate button for the overdrive to work that allows the circle to go off of the d that's what lets you know supposedly that you're in overdrive for the es model as I described above please get back to me and thank you
Different system mostly with your model
2006 Stratus won't go reverse or shift proper in drive, now it won't move at all but it feels like it goes into drive but it won't move. Is this the same thing or worse?
Great video pal ( specially the music : )) !!! Just one question, the new ground wire from the solenoid pack goes to the battery or it is screwed down directly to the body? Thanks
I put a ring terminal from one of the bolts on the solenoid pack and run the wire to the negative on the battery. It make sure that lack of ground in Chryslers is covered. Seems to have made major differences in assuring 12+ volts at those relays.
Cool, thanks!! Gonna fix my solenoid pack Sunday. South Florida is flooded and all this water made my transmission go to limp mode. Thanks again for the advice !!
I watched you're video with great interest can a transmission solenoid click? also please go in to more detail on how to attach the ground wire to help with rough idling because that is what I have changed the spark plugs and the EGR valve. I have a 1993 dodge dynasty with a 3.3 liter engine LE
There are a few ground straps on the engine going to the firewall, the unibody near the radiator and from the fender to the transmission. The most troublesome is corrosion on the one on the firewall. Take a 8 awg wire, put terminals on it and run it from the negative on the battery to a bolt on the manifold in the easiest way you can. Idle air control sensors are also problematic on these causing the injectors to under perform.
How many speed sensors does the auto stick automatic plus Auto stick have year 2000 Dodge Grand caravan ES front wheel drive overhead valve 17-in rims
Hey John I did this repair on my sons 89 Dynasty as in the vid with the extra grounds. Unfortunately it still won't shift out of 2nd. It used to try and would on occasion before. Made me think grounds. I used the parts in the link you provided. Any other ideas I might try before a trans rebuild (which the car isn't worth). Thanks for the vids you post. Norm
+Norm Johns Sounds like you have trash in your system. Usually a ground up O ring from the filter. Gets in the tiny screens at the solenoid ports.
Pull it, flip it over and see if there is little bits in the cone shaped filter screens. Careful with them, replace them after cleaning 1 at a time.
Thanks, I'll try it !
Trans mount!!
My 97 eclipse did the same thing .. Bad trans/motor mount fixed it right away never slipped or jumped gears or refused to shift after that.. 12.00 part.
this is such bad ass information, Im a Honda nerd, but this beautiful information. Thank you for your time sir
Hello mr John 😇🤝. I really need your help. I purchased a new mopar shift solenoid off of eBay for my 1991 Chrysler New Yorker. 3.3 liter. I decided to get a new one because the shifting was getting very erratic. So when I received the new one it came in a oily clear bag with the 2 sensors. I put everything on correctly , but when I first get on the the road it shifts excellent 😇. But when after a while , when I 🛑 stop at a sign. It shifts into the safety mode you speak of.(just stays in that gear) Made sure the fluid was topped off correctly, sensors are all in place, where do I go from here? I changed the transmission fluid and filter gasket 1yr ago. I didn’t spray electrical cleaner on the connector or the solenoid outlet? Could it be the electrical plug-in? Or just a bad part? If I get on the road can I damage the trans by trying to make it home if it slips into that safety mode?😳? Your help would be so much appreciated 😇❤️❤️❤️🤝🤝🤝🤝🚗
Seems you need to clean the filters and replace the trans fluid. I always insist on this due to trash causing this symptom in a new shift module due to increased flow brings up junk. Remove module, look for something in the poly cone filters in its ports, clear it with tweezers, replace transmission fluid and filter, re-install. Use only mopar 3 or 4 fluid.
This sounds like what recently happened to my 2014 Chrysler T&C. Took it to dealer and scanned codes P0780 and P0734 gear ration in 4th. They recommend new trans $4600. Had it towed home. I noticed it leaked fluid all over the tow truck bed. Not sure what to do yet. Any recommendations?
I have a 97 dodge intrepid 3.5 I had the code P 0700 it was the TCM I replaced it my was inside the transmission with the low and high sensor, transmission filter and oil but still in limp mode
Just bought a 1992 Dodge caravan. My transmission is doing this. But now my gages on the dash quit working and they were fine. Any idea what's going on. thanks
+Michael Ennis Sounds like you have multiple issues.
I'm stuck on no spark. After replacing the solenoid
Neutral safety switch can stop ignition system if it is faulty. Make sure all wires were not damaged.
Hi there, I have a 1991 Chrysler New Yorker fifth Avenue, it has the the 41-TE. Between 25-45 miles per hour at times in down shifting the car will jump into limp mode when it’s been driven for awhile and the electronic vehicle information center or (EVIC) cluster will say “Low transmission pressure” and will go into service limp mode (stuck in second gear) and will remain in limp mode until it’s restarted or let sit to cool down for a bit. I’ve been told my silonoid pack may be going out but im wondering if you know any other possible things to check. I’ve already replaced my speed input sensors
Easy car to replace it on. Yes, that's typical symptoms of a solenoid failing.
Have an issue with a 2007 sebring going into limp mode when the transmission temp sensor stops reading correctly (-3 degrees F always). Trans temp sensor is built into the range sensor on this one. Have to remove the valve body. Not a fun job. Never would have caught the issue without good scan data.
Thanks for the video! if it is a ground problem, where is the ground wire in the transmission/ engine?? Thanks !
Mr John Daniel😇🤝 I have a 1991 Chrysler New Yorker front wheel drive. ? Does it need a 2 wheel or 4 wheel alignment? I’m curious when I do it. Thanks💯
Alignment on the front, chassis check on both. At that age, have the rubber mounting parts examined on the rear axle, wear and rotting bushings can cause it to be misaligned but nothing other than that. Replacing the worn rear axle parts fixes any such concern there. On those cars, the camber is a major issue, replacing the front struts and then taking it in for a alignment is smart. The steering on them due to age can be messy, you can get a complete kit ( struts, tie rods, upper and lower assembly and steering track kit for about $450
Thank you Mr.Daniel 😇😇😇🤝🤝❤️
Just towed my 2003 Grand Caravan Sport home on a trailer. I noticed that for a while it seemed not to know what gear it wanted to be in when I pull out and get the van moving, but would then drive as it should. Then, while on the Turn Pike it started acting up and shuttering at highway speed. We pulled over and let it cool down to see if that would help but then it would not go into reverse, it did go into drive but only for about twenty feet and lost drive also. We still don't have reverse but it will go into drive for a short bit and go out again. I performed a typical trans filter and fluid change just before the trip and it was fine for about 250 miles or so before the trouble started. I haven't seen anyone explain a shuttering problem while driving. Am I looking at a different problem or a major transmission rebuild that is not worth it?
Did you do the Fluid/Filter change? Thats the biggest question. many people price shop down the transmission fluids and do not use genuine AFT4+ in them. Usually in under 500 miles they need a new transmission. And some change it themselves and do not notice the oring still in the mount tube of the valve body for the filter which gets pulled into the pump and shredded up, blocking the micro screens in the shift solenoid.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I did the filter and fluid myself. The fluid was the correct type, no mistake. I did have trouble with the filter staying in place but I am now not sure the old o ring was on the old filter. I remember a loose o ring but cant quite remember that whole procedure now. So I'm lost as to what to do. Is it junk ? Should I drop the pan and find anything? Do I try the solenoid and sensors. Do I sell as is. Oh, that sucks to know I might have killed it.
Will this make the car shut off if it doesnt downshift completely?
in your list of applications in the discription, should Sebring v6 have the 2.5l listed there?
If your transmission is the 604 then yes. In that link you get the canadian made version from a seller on ebay, he or she can definitely answer your question. Go to the link, and at the site you can go down and see ASK SELLER A QUESTION. I know it fits a sundance thats like your sebring.
+Јоhn “HEADSMASHER” Daniel I went to the link and checked it out and in the description it says it's only for the dohc engines but that doesn't really make sense to me since it's not a engine part but a transmission part. and I do have the a604 as well
+Јоhn “HEADSMASHER” Daniel is your Sundance a single or dual cam?
Single cam, 2.5 Mitsu designed V6 I believe.
If its a 4 speed, A604 then the kit in the link fits it unless its some All Wheel Drive model. Never seen it not work. go to the link i put on there, then compare your car to the parts you see. A different solenoid pack will have a very obvious change in looks. Just be sure to do a hard drive test and a gentle drive test, about 5 miles in all to reset the computers parameters going through all gears and then disconnect the battery for over night with the head lights on when you do it to drop storage voltage below 7 volts in the CPU. Even then it will not drive perfect till about 4-5 more cycles of normal daily driving but it does restore the car to perfect order. AND, NEVER put cheap Tranny Fluid in these. ONLY Mopar ATF 4+ no kidding. And my suggestion, at 500 miles suction out all you can and add back to level more new ATF4+ mopar to get higher new fluid content. Fluid like the one I show in the video.
I need help please. I overhauled my 41TE of 1997 DGC (270K km). I replaced all plates, clutches, rings, clean/flush the solenoid body, torque converter, except to re-use the old solenoid pack. I tested this SP and the ohms is good within specs. I decided not to replace (just total flush) as I thought I can still replace this if the low shift bump will persist later (as this is an external part). The bump never go away after the overhaul but there's no code. After running some +300km. I decided to replace the SP pack with brand new Wagner. The van works well smoothly during road test but reverts to its old bumps today just after some 50 km. What else should I need to check/do to remove the bumps. I understand the bump will start to erase all the spline of the planetary gear as I found out in the overhaul. (I replaced this part too on the overhaul). Thank you for time in advance.
Do you have new speed sensors?
Have you done a full computer diagnosis on the CPU?
These will tend to have the main computer storing driving habits and tend to replicate them even improper actions.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Yes John I installed new speed sensors, but not the full CPU diagnosis. This is the one thing I have not done yet so yes I will and let you know. Thanks for your reply John. More power to you eh.
so, i got a 90 dynasty and the forward drive works fine, no issues, but the reverse works when it wants to, 1 out of every 5 times when i put it into reverse it works, what would you prescribe, i flushed the transmission and did the fluid+filter less than 2 months ago and still 1/5 times it works, 3.0 L a604 or 41TE, what ever you wanna call that trans, love the car but dont wanna buy a new trans for it.
Sounds like the Neutral safety Park switch or the solenoid. There is a switch in the system that lets power go to the reverse valve to let pressure feed in. Luckily for you, a dead transmission is not what you have, a sensor or other basic electrical issue is what your dealing with. Take it to 3 or 4 SHOPS for a bid on the repair, a WRITTEN BID describing work to be done, parts it needs and hours to do the job. For one, 2 of the 4 will lie to you about the work, but from your effort you will get free trouble shooting done, and then get back with me for a HOW TO DIY!
How do I change the plugs to my output sensor in 2001 Dodge Grand Caravan
Plz and thank u
You can search by part number or call a Oreillys Auto store and they can get them. You just cut the old connector off and using butt connectors replace the damaged plug by copying the wires to the new one. Generally the replacement plug will have about 6 inches of wires on it.
Thank u sir
John - Mine is a 2006 3.8 with 170,000 miles. It started dropping from drive to neutral after stopping at stop signs. Now, it does it when going slow. In both cases it revs up when accelerating due to falling out of drive to neutral. The shifter doesn't move to neutral though. It will then go back in gear either from manually moving the shifter or after turning it off and back on. I also hear a faint clicking sound that occurs when gears are shifted. The sound matches vibrations felt from the transmission control pack. Do you think these symptoms are inline with the control pack and speed sensors?
+Justin Mitchell I would verify transmission model first.
However the most likely culprit of the way yours is acting is low voltage either in the in tire system or the ground strap to the engine. Very few completely throw themselves out of gear, most just refuse to shift up from first or second.
Hello John i have a 2000 Dodge Caravan 3.3L all of a sudden my reverse stopped working now when i put reverse it jerks when i accelerate but all my shifts in drive work fine. would this be the same case for my Caravan?
What noises is it making, is it disengaging or letting loose as it tries to reverse. If so check the drive shafts (CV joints). A clicking noise and jerking would be CV joints, brakes hanging up or if it's a 4 wheel drive model it would be transfer case falling. Not common but also likely is solenoid port filters failing.
Hi what are the 5 or 6 bolts right under the solenoid pack? I saw that they were out so I tightened them up which I’m thinking now if that was a good idea. From top view with the solenoid pack out you can see the bolts/screw right below gasket area.
Those are the covers for the valve Relay housing.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 thanks, so was it ok that I tightened them? Or are they supposed to be backed out?
Firming up those bolts if they're a little loose is not a problem. Just not too tight because you might deform the gasket on it.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 I have another person in another forum telling me they should not be touched. That they are transmission pressure test ports. Which I could send you a pic.
If they're on the bottom of that shift module, that plate covers the filters and solenoid valves. They don't have a pressure test port that I know of, the Mitsubishi version of the transmission does.
What about it goes into reverse however doesn’t move
Neutral safety switch or park sensor. Rarely the module on that.
I just bought a beauty of a 93 with the 3.3. It is the 4spd auto. Is this the same thing I need. It’s stuck in 2nd. Period
The fix, make sure your vehicle is a A604 style, check their list on compatible. ebay.to/2BAxMrQ
Sir Thank you for this video. Do I need to fill oil to the new solenoid pack before placing it? Thanks for the reply.
No, its first inline from the pump.
I have a friend with a 2000 Dodge Neon that has a funny 2/3 shift, and your kit doesn't cover this model. Would you have another link that has this model?
Many times they have a inaccurate or out of parameter speed sensor ( amzn.to/3dsKyHD for 2000 L4 engine and auto trans on Neons) that can cause that, I would defeinitely run codes on it too. Depending on miles it can also just be the accelerator / injector to transmission shift link being dried out see this vid ( ua-cam.com/video/c_43YJ-wChc/v-deo.html ) and at last it may be the torque converter solenoid amzn.to/2wCbvYP
great video i have a daytona with the 604 wont go into 3rd or 4th it goes from first to 2nd fine then when it shifts to 3rd it acts like it slips into nuetral could this be my issue as well ?
+Victoria Clark That's the most consistent symptoms for sure of a pack fail. That's why I put links to get the entire kit and sensors for 100 bucks on here. Few have any idea you can do this so easy.
Јоhn Daniel thnks for such a fast reply we will be fixing soon
What about for the 2000. Dodge grànd caravan ES fwd ohv autostick
The Computer controls the auto stick actions, they fail often. I would suggest taking to Auto Zone, get a free computer scan.
Good Job! What is correct torque for those 3 /10 mm bolts, for the solenoid?/ Thanks=)
I know it is late...The answer is 10ft lbs
So, my 2005 Grand Caravan 3.8 liter with 200K has a weird issue with check engine. Everything is fine, no shifting problems at all, but when I go on the hwy over 50 mph for maybe 10 minutes the check engine light comes on. Still no shifting problems. I got a 0700 code when I checked it. The light will go off after a day or 2 and won't come back on unless I do the hwy again. It has been doing this for about a year, but still no driving or shifting issues. Faulty sensor?
Sensor or dirty plug/connection
i have 1993 dodge caravan was at stop light went to take off it went into neutral.shut key off turned back on drove it few miles did it again same thing shut it off restarted and drove 100 miles home and drove for several more months .it finally quit all together got used shift solenoid been driving it for that last 6 months.then all at once was going down road and jerked a few time then went into neutral again shut key off and it moved again but was jerking and jumping and making noise thought motor was coming out of it.but now start it will move for maybe 1/2 mile then goes back 2 neutral and also drove it prob a mile in first gear then back 2 neutral has no reverse at all.it has diffrent gasket then the 1 you have listed .i have a picture of it but dont know how to post it .any help would be greatly appericated
Sounds like a coroded ground wire or ground strap from the chassis to the engine or transmission. Secondly, the other option is battery voltage, start the car, and test the voltage at the battery after you start it. Note the voltage, they must be running at 12.8+ volts or all kinds of havoc can occur. I have seen many a weak alternator and or battery cause similar symptoms. So if your testing voltage, after the car starts then test it, then while running turn on all items in the van ( headlights, radio, blower Air conditioner) and again test the voltage. If your getting way under 12.8 or are very close to 12.8 your transmission will not get enough power and it will fault, fail, and so as you describe.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 put valve back on run ground from it to the batt then run another one from the body to the motor .then started it turned wipers stereo heater lights etc on check charging was 13 and more.put in gear no reverse move forward but making whining noise kind like its not all the way in gear
I would go with the full kit that includes the 2 sensors and new solenoid pack. Verify you do have the A604 41TE transmission, 4 speed ( 3 with OD) and get the complete kit, ebay.to/2BAxMrQ AND MOST IMPORTANT refill with AFT+4 fluid. NOTHING LESS!!!!
Depending on a used Shift pack is not the best option, they have a huge fail rate due to the tiny filters, differing fluid factors and the unknown actual use. ATF+4 is not cheap, but its the only option and to save $20 on fluid, you spend $2500 on a transmission.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 this all started close to a year ago i took it to transmission shop they told me they thought it was electrical short cost me small fortune for them to call me back and say they couldnt find any shorts that it was the solenoid pack and wold be another 300 bucks i told them just forget it and went picked it up.then went to junk yrd got 1 put it on didnt work so ordered brand new 1 it didnt work .but then noticed when took the new 1 off the gasket was covering the holes.i looked and looked tring to find the right valve and never did so finaly found used 1 at first it didnt have any reverse but then later it kicked in .well anyway would love to buy new 1 and be done but cant find the 1 i need it is the 4 spped with the circle around the d it does not have the adapter plate with the 2 gaskets ,its the valve and 1 gasket everything i find is like the link you sent me and that 1 dont match mine i have a pic of the gasket but dont no how to post a pic of it,ps thanks for your time it is very much appericated as this hole deal is very aggrevating
If the gasket is covering the holes, its flipped. Put the gasket on and note the holes exposed, if they are not, flip it till they do. Chrysler only made one 4 speed transmission body for all 66 vehicles from 1989 to 2015. It would be impossible for the unit in the link above not to fit unless someone has changed the transmission out with something unheard of.
Is this setup an overdrive type transmission, I have a 1992 Lebaron with 2.5 turbo and 3 speed transmission. I cannot find the electronic shift solenoid in the trans but the parts places list my car as having one. Any ideas?
If it does not have the OD symbol on the selector then its a 3 speed, some were 3 speeds by dealer order on Turbo models. And if its not shifting correctly its a speed sensor or failing trans.
Thank you, as I can manually shift it and the fluid is proper Colour it should be the speed sensor.
I like the music you have playing in the background
Just a cool Free tune from You Tube. Artist give a part of their work over for free use, that gets them noticed, and they hopefully go on to make money off their efforts. However, some give away a free tune, then years later have a crack habit and go complaining to try and get revenue off the song they gave away earlier. When that happens you can do like I do and immediately pull the song out and replace it using You Tube audio track editor.
On life the music scary but hard
Hello John, considering this possible fix. My 06 caravan consistently throws 700 and 740 once I reach a steady speed of 60 mph. Have you seen these three replacements with grounds fix these codes?
Sounds like speed sensor actually. But be sure to check the King of Corrosion Chrysler for grounding straps and wires with possible issues and remove-clean and reattach them.
PS - Is it 4 wheel ( all wheel ) drive? If so, try fully equalizing the tires. Air pressure in them, height of them important. Saw lots of codes from new tires on front, old tires on back 3/4" difference wreaking havoc!
Thanks for the quit reply. It's a plain base model with a 3.3. Thanks for the advice. I will change the two speed sensors and clear the code and see what I get.
I changed the two sensors and it still sets 700 and 740 after driving 14 to 20 miles at 60 mph or higher. Do you think replacing the module that's sold on ebay would help?
If shifting is consistent and not missing any gears then the module is ok. Seems like a possible wiring issue but being the issue happens when your running 60 mph then the most likely suspect is something to do with the Emissions. A fuel mixture item can cause the transmission to throw codes as well as a bad plug to your sensors on the transmission and or the throttle.
Hi John,
2000 Dodge Grand Caravan...3.3L....156K....runs,shifts good....PO 700,PO 740....one shop said Trans needs to be rebuilt....another mechanic said TCM....what's your opinion...please help!....
Speed Sensor feedback causing it. Replace the 2 sensors ( $30 ) and be careful to not cross thread. Then re-set computer by removing battery negative for 1 hour and then re-connect and see if the problem codes alter or go away.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 you mean both input and output Trans speed sensors?.....thanks
@@JOHNDANIEL1 2nd owner of caravan that is....
Yes, they are matched and tuned as a set
John, got it....thanks!....at this point...trying to decide/determine correct damn repair/parts usually the scan code hit's the bull'seye....
mine's an 05 with the 40TE, the transmission shifts relatively fine, but 3 & 1 (below D) do absolutely nothing. I can start it, put it in 1 and get on the highway, it's no different in 3 or D.
Step one, change filter and be sure to do a full change with ATF+4 Synthetic type 9602 fluid ONLY. The newer ones had a pressure sensor that would put the transmission in a memory mode. While changing the transmission fluid disconnect the battery for no less than a hour to reset the computer. I usually turn on the headlights as I disconnect the battery to have a full wiring harness load to help drain the storage in the computer, you can and should also have all codes cleared at a auto parts store during this process. Only other common options are related to the trans shift linkage indicator or the Solenoid.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 Auto parts stores here won't clear, only read codes.
Is it late to ask, what the ground wire was for?
Anti Corrosion Warfare! These Chrysler products are tragic with electrolysis effect and chassis corrosion. Adding a extra wire to the body of the solenoid pack guarantees effective grounding.
Hey John, i have a 2010 dodge grand caravan and out of the blue one day my van started shifting crazy after i went pass 2nd gear. However, i took it to advance auto and the codes manifested that i had a incorrect gear ratios for gears 4,5, and 6. However, once i got pass 2nd it would jump to 4 and would jump back down to 2. Sometimes pass 3 it would rev up high. What is this? please help
+Coaching From.A.New.Perspective Disconnect the car battery for 24 hours. Reconnect then cycle the key off to on to off 6 times. Do not start van, just to on position. Disconnect battery again for a few minutes then reconnect it, start van and take out on road running it hard through a few cycles of hwy and city.
This normally will cause a reprogram of the torque/tow issue your having or produce a code very accurate to a failing part such as the shift load sensor which determines if van is light enough in load to skip gears to increase fuel economy.
OK, i will try it tomorrow, its parked at my moms house right now.. A guy on my job told me to do something similar (disconnect the negative(black) cable for 5 minutes) and the check engine light went off :) and now it acted like it didn't want to shift out of 1st gear. So i went back around the block and i disconnected the negative cable like he told me and it shifted back to 1st , then 2nd gear but it started shifting crazy again. Overall, i believe and trust you are on to something because this happen out of the blue, that's why i believe its something dealing with the program. Thanks man, i will give you the updates. God Bless You!
Do you mean like cut the radio "On" or Turn the car "On", when i am doing the 6 cycles?
my car has a hard downshift not sure why its only when I hit 30mph
+michaels mikes Failure starts with odd downshifting. Sounds like the high to low solenoid hanging up. Probably time to change the pack out.
This is the second transmission that is doing Hard downshifting I changed out the solenoid pack and nothing changed
+michaels mikes Sounds like you should check your alternator. See if your voltage is 14 volts when at idle and at 1500 rpms. Could be a low voltage effect, I have seen this on a few dodges. The solenoids holding power and the control box hates anything under 13 volts.
+michaels mikes If your in a high corrosion area then also check all wiring and ground points. Add a ground from battery, change speed sensors and make damn sure you put ATF4 in it or better grade trans fluid.
I just dropped the transmission I'm going to go ahead and replace it one last time if it does the same thing I will check the voltage
John got a 2005 dodge caravan the computer went out got a used one from eBay with same matching numbers. Installed and started right up. Ran it and gave me a p0846 code says transmission fluid pressure sensor on obd2. Can it be the part your showing or just a sensor don't really know where sensor can be on this year. Or can the PCM come with that code just showing? Your response would be appreciated my friend.
+Phil Sanchez You could have a default setting that is in the computer, they do adjust parameters over time. So the original van it was in could have been driven hard and the computer will need a reset at the dealer.
Or your transmission filter or fluid channels are plugged up enough to be above the last parameters of your failed computer. Then a filter and flush is needed.
OK I'll check it out. Thanks for the help buddy. 👍
Hello Јохн Даниел ..my 1997 plymouth voyager SE all of a sudden started making scraping sound and slips when shifting from 2nd to 3rd gear...it is a 6 cylinder 3.0L ....would this repair be worth trying??..I took it to a transmission mechanic and he wants $1700 to overhaul it...my van isnt even worth that much.....please advise...thank you
Thats a typical sign your solenoid pack is failing. I put a link in to find them below my video. Be sure to disconnect your battery during the change out.
Ok great...thank you Јохн Даниел .....it sounds then that its at least worth a try before expensive repair etc...should I also combine your video procedure with transmission oil drain (not flush)..filter replacement and consider some kind of transmission oil additive so as to assist worn transmission??.....transmission is due for oil and filter replacement (does it use oil filter unit or just screen type unit that just needs cleaning but not replacing)??....thank you again...
I HAVE 04 GRAND CARARAN 3.8 2WD NEXT MORNING NO REVERS CAN YOU PLEASE TELL ME WHAT IS WRONG?
Sounds like your Transmission input output sensors are fooling the computer into stopping the solenoid from engaging reverse. You can still get into drive, forward on limp home mode, but it will get worse as the computer learns from bad sensor feedback. Replace them, its cheap to do. amzn.to/2p0qbqL Fits your Van
I replaced my solenoid pack n now I have a tcm code ?
Remove battery power to car while headlights are on to drain the computer capacitor then turn everything off and reconnect battery. Drive car aggressively for a few miles, recheck codes. Report your results back to me.
Shifting is delayed n tcm code is still on
Do a TCM reset, get in the car turn the ignition to the on position but not start. All your lights on the dash will light up like you're about to hit the starter, push your gas pedal all the way to the floor and then turn off the ignition key while you're holding the gas pedal down to the floor. Let sit for 5+ minutes key in but in off position.
That process will tell the computer that an overload has been faulted and it'll reset itself unless there's something otherwise seriously wrong. The only other option is a faulty or bad speed sensor or shift indicator issue. After you do the reset I'm driving around like you normally would so that it retrains itself.
@@JOHNDANIEL1 no change
Last option is Dodge dealer. But if you can get a local garage to clear TCM codes, it's drastically cheaper. What happened is your TCM learned bad habits as the solenoid was failing. Now, it's confused, and still applying attempted fixes to the new solenoid.
Truth be told! Scamco! 2500 for supposed new torque converter and clutch plates with new solenoid paks. It was BS!!!!
i have a 2003 Chrysler Concorde when i slow down from hi speed the car shifts into low and then dont up shift what do you think the problem is thanks scott
are you getting codes for random cylinder misfires as well?
no the self code comes up at po700
Got it in. But still won’t change gears
Does anybody know anything about the metal plate in between the solenoid pack and the transmission originally had to gaskets in a metal plate spacer in between the two gaskets and a transmission and solenoid pack
Two*
+Andrew Stout they say that the new solenoid packs are 2.5 mm taller and the filters that they use the inserted filters are a little different so you don't need the metal plate anymore on these modifications
Would that cause p0775 code shift solenoid "B" on Dodge Avenger won't shift into 2 thanks or is the shift solenoid inside transmission thanks Joxh
+Quats C That is common bounce code off a input speed sensor
+Јохн Даниел Do a full replacement kit, its worth it.
+Quats C Rewatch video, solenoid is out in open, remove battery and it's box then it's right there.
Јохн Даниел thank u going to order it now it doesn't need to be programmed right
Not usually. They seem to self program after a while of driving. What you do is 3 cycles of PUSH IT HARD driving making it shift all through the ranges then stop, key off and out, then do it again driving conservatively though all gears 3 times then key off and out, then disconnect the battery while the headlights are on, let sit a few hours then reconnect and it will start automatic cycling of the programming from use.
Thanks for the great video. My symptom is on a 2006 Dodge Grand Caravan with175K miles that is repeatedly throwing P0700 and P0740 codes for the possible torque converter or TCC solenoid not locking up which causes problems come smog testing time here in CA, otherwise the van is perfectly drivable (albeit maybe not getting as good a mpg as it should...). But it's a relatively easy and cheap possible solution that seems can't really hurt since replacing the torque converter or TCC solenoid means removing the transmission altogether - $$$$...
BTW - There's talk in other videos of possibly having to perform a "quick learn" procedure when changing the valve solenoid pack, others say not so and that the transmission control unit will learn over time and adjust itself to the new valves. And this 'quick learn' thing is something only a dealer or transmission shop with the right scan tool can do, if you can get them to do it for you...
Another video suggests blowing the ATF out of the valve solenoid mounting bolt holes on the transmission - a very messy proposition on the one closest to the engine since it refills with oil as fast as you can blow it out...
I of course ignored your links and purchased a valve solenoid pack and speed sensors from Amazon for the fast free delivery. While the speed sensors work fine, the valve solenoid pack was another story altogether. Like I said it was cheap though, like $69 with the gasket. I installed the valve solenoid pack, even added the ground wire you recommended; not a terribly difficult or even particularly messy job. However, on restarting van it wouldn't go into gear at all and was throwing all kinds of transmission related OBDII codes. Arghhh... So, I let the van cool down a few hours and removed the 'new' valve solenoid pack and reinstalled the original (after having to drive to the local Dodge dealership to pay far too much for another gasket...). And the van once again runs and goes into gear fine again (well, as fine as it ever did...). The good news being that the defective part and associated install, uninstall, reinstall process at least didn't make the van worse than when I started. The good thing about buying the defective part from Amazon... Free Returns at the local Kohl's store.
I guess the next step is to pony up the few extra dollars and buy a remanufactured part from your recommended source. As always the adage of 'Never time to do it right the first time, but plenty of time to do it twice' applies...
I do a lot of research before I post a link to a item. Actual source, actual feedback and actual ratings. But many do the save $25 thing and then post on here how they had problems. Knock offs are about 75% of the auto parts market. As for the Re-assigning the computer, to do that its a simple process you can do. But first, DO NOT go cheap on the kit again. Filter, ATF4 mopar fluid and module.
The re-assigning process requires you Remove and replace the trans module with battery positive disconnected, but you must turn on the lights on the van when you disconnect positive battery. That way the capacitors in the computer are drained of power to help the process. Step 2 after you do the reinstall you allow the van to reach full idle temperature, check fluid engine idling at 700 to 800 in park. Final Fill only to just 1/16" under the mark. Then you will take it out to drive it, first is a slow to 0-60-0 mph allowing all gears to shift at lowest (highest economy) shift points, repeat 3 times. Now, shut off van, then restart and do a pushed performance run to 0-60-0, 3 times pushing it to shift harder but don't get radical. Then you will have the parameters set. Start driving normal and in about 2 days the computer should have learned its settings to be best useable.
If this process does not make it more drivable you can save money by contacting NAPA Auto Parts, ask for their referral to a non Chrysler alternative and they usually have a recommended local shop that will flash and reset all computer functions for $50.
If your van has 175K on it, I deeply recommend a complete flush you can do of your radiator and cooling system, its the killer of the Dodge engines, just do a cold flush, drain and refill.
Ron White?
This is excellent, you are excellent. Straight and to the point.
this things was replaced several times. Do you think that It could be just a ground?
Thanks,
TWR
+Terence Roberts Very likely. A low voltage effect ruins your solenoids. Causes them to partially engage and overheat.
Thank you for a good video! I think I should be able to apply this to my concord I hope!
Very well done sir. Most informative.
Awesome video. Thanks for the link as well!
Good video, but please turn off the music - it's very distracting.
John I'm have dodge journey 2011
What is it doing. How does it drive, shift gears and is it 4 speed automatic transmission or the 6 speed.
Јоhn Daniel I'm still Drive is have litle pull yes a litle the LIHG on
Јоhn Daniel the code P0740 and P2764
Sounds like a possible low voltage issue. For both the solenoid and torque converter to show a fault that is usually a bad battery or alternator. Check the battery voltage on the car. Check it before you start the car, write it down, then start the car with multimeter still connected and see if the alternator is charging the battery up to 14 volts as it sits and idles for a few minutes. If your driving voltage goes below 12.4 volts your cars computer will not allow proper shifts since the valving is electrical. These cars may do this when the car battery is weak and summer heat running air conditioner draws too much power.
This Dodge Journey is very bad vehicle with so many computer and electrical issues. Most issues are due to bad alternator, fuel pump failing and pulling too much voltage power, people installing large stereo amplifier pulling too much voltage power and if over 125,000 miles solenoid failure also.
after 2000 the 41TE was as reliable as GMs and toyota
very great and smart thanks man
I am going to make a new video on a new problem due to age on these, your going to be shocked at a leading cause of failure.
Why make a video and talk shit abiut the vehicle. I've owned many brands and I have had the least problems with my Dodge' cars.
I love Dodge, Trucks!
Dodge,Chrysler both are old Indian words for bad transmission 🤣🤣🤣🤣
NO, They are Chinese words for "parts bin"
@@JOHNDANIEL1 👍👍🤣🤣🤣🤣🤣
Good yes