Like your measurements at the end of the Video. Glad Balmar made programming easier with the MC-618 in conjunction with the CANBUS WiFi dongle, and Balmar App.
Also, the reason the amp gauges don't register when charging with the alternator is because you connected the alternator ground to the battery side of the shunt, rather than the system side. Just my $0.02. Keep the good videos coming.
Hey Rich. I noticed the warning in the regulator install manual about how the BMS in some LiFePo4 batteries may disconnect the battery on full charge or other error conditions, and that you must shut the regulator down before disconnecting the battery or damage can occur to the alternator and regulator. Have you done anything to protect the system in the event that the BMS in the Battle Born batteries shuts off the battery?
Hey Jeff, I originally programmed the regulator for 0.1v less than the BMS cut-out and haven't had a problem so far on long motoring trips with fully charged batteries. Another viewer mentioned the Sterling Power Alternator Protection Device ($70 from marinehowto.com) so I thought I'd give it a try. It's basically sacrificial diodes to protect the charging system from transient voltage spikes or a BMS shutdown. I haven't installed it yet, but it's dirt simple and only takes a few minutes. We plan to do a future video on the how & why, but you can also check out this article in the mean time: marinehowto.com/1-2-both-battery-switch-considerations/ Thanks for watching.
Figured it out, I can use one of my AGM batteries for the starter battery and charge it from the second battery bank connection on the Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 120V VE.
Hi James, thanks for the comment. Depending on which make and model alternator/regulator you install the wiring connections can vary quite a bit, and in order to keep the videos short and to the point sometimes parts of the installation get clipped in the interest of time. We've never claimed to be an instructional how-to DIY channel; we're just here to let people know what we're doing to fix up our boat and maybe pass on a few ideas and techniques along the way. For a more in-depth explanation on marine plumbing and electrical repairs I highly recommend picking up a copy of Nigel Calder's Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual. Often called the "DIY Boat Bible", I'm constantly referring back to it for information on projects such as this. Thanks again for watching.
@@svrambleon thank you , I was just looking for some specifics and not finding any on any channel , I did talk with Beta marine for a long time and Faron set me up with the minimum wire guide to run the regulator. I think besides all the wires that actually go to the balar 614 My main confusion is that - I thought it was linked in line to the battery, solar panel systems and that its real function is to go back to the alternator.,and now as you said I have 2 temp sensors and other functions ,Im also sure that getting into to much detail might open you up to liability so I do understand .best James
Since you already installed that huge inverter charger, why would you need another charge manager?? Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries seems to be "drop-in" which I am hesitant to trust. But, I thought the Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 120V VE.Bus seems to be the charge controller as well as the inverter. I'll spend $300 to protect 4 grand worth of batteries, If I have to. I just need some more edumacation. :)
The Balmar voltage regulator controls charging input from the alternator when the engine is running. The Victron Multiplus only charges batteries from shore power, or when plugged into a portable generator (like our Honda 2000).
For someone attempting a less robust electrical system, just to turn on the inverter and see it drawing 9 amps would be unacceptable and send one back to the drawing board.
Like your measurements at the end of the Video. Glad Balmar made programming easier with the MC-618 in conjunction with the CANBUS WiFi dongle, and Balmar App.
Also, the reason the amp gauges don't register when charging with the alternator is because you connected the alternator ground to the battery side of the shunt, rather than the system side. Just my $0.02. Keep the good videos coming.
The belt load manager reduces the alternator output in order to prevent belt slippage
Hey Rich. I noticed the warning in the regulator install manual about how the BMS in some LiFePo4 batteries may disconnect the battery on full charge or other error conditions, and that you must shut the regulator down before disconnecting the battery or damage can occur to the alternator and regulator. Have you done anything to protect the system in the event that the BMS in the Battle Born batteries shuts off the battery?
Hey Jeff, I originally programmed the regulator for 0.1v less than the BMS cut-out and haven't had a problem so far on long motoring trips with fully charged batteries. Another viewer mentioned the Sterling Power Alternator Protection Device ($70 from marinehowto.com) so I thought I'd give it a try. It's basically sacrificial diodes to protect the charging system from transient voltage spikes or a BMS shutdown. I haven't installed it yet, but it's dirt simple and only takes a few minutes. We plan to do a future video on the how & why, but you can also check out this article in the mean time: marinehowto.com/1-2-both-battery-switch-considerations/
Thanks for watching.
Where do you get tachometer from? I'm not familiar with the Balmar 614. I like your videos and that sweet T-37.
Hi Pat! We got it at www.acdcmarineinc.com. 😉
@@svrambleon Sorry, I meant the tach signal.
We got that at pkyinc.com (Peter Kennedy Yachts)
I am upgrading to 4 / 100amp lithium batteries. Do I need a separate battery to start the engine??
Figured it out, I can use one of my AGM batteries for the starter battery and charge it from the second battery bank connection on the Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 120V VE.
@@RickeyMoore True, that's possible. We installed 5 Battleborn batteries all wired in series; one big house bank that also starts the engine
it would be nice if you had shown how to locate the wires you hooked up to and where they came from on the altenator
Hi James, thanks for the comment. Depending on which make and model alternator/regulator you install the wiring connections can vary quite a bit, and in order to keep the videos short and to the point sometimes parts of the installation get clipped in the interest of time. We've never claimed to be an instructional how-to DIY channel; we're just here to let people know what we're doing to fix up our boat and maybe pass on a few ideas and techniques along the way. For a more in-depth explanation on marine plumbing and electrical repairs I highly recommend picking up a copy of Nigel Calder's Boatowner's Mechanical and Electrical Manual. Often called the "DIY Boat Bible", I'm constantly referring back to it for information on projects such as this. Thanks again for watching.
@@svrambleon thank you , I was just looking for some specifics and not finding any on any channel , I did talk with Beta marine for a long time and Faron set me up with the minimum wire guide to run the regulator. I think besides all the wires that actually go to the balar 614 My main confusion is that - I thought it was linked in line to the battery, solar panel systems and that its real function is to go back to the alternator.,and now as you said I have 2 temp sensors and other functions ,Im also sure that getting into to much detail might open you up to liability so I do understand .best James
Since you already installed that huge inverter charger, why would you need another charge manager?? Battle Born LiFePO4 Deep Cycle Batteries seems to be "drop-in" which I am hesitant to trust. But, I thought the Victron Multiplus 12/3000/120-50 120V VE.Bus seems to be the charge controller as well as the inverter. I'll spend $300 to protect 4 grand worth of batteries, If I have to. I just need some more edumacation. :)
The Balmar voltage regulator controls charging input from the alternator when the engine is running. The Victron Multiplus only charges batteries from shore power, or when plugged into a portable generator (like our Honda 2000).
Hay can i contact you for some advice on this item for my sailboat
Sure, hit me at rich-at-svrambleon-dot-com (like and email).
@@svrambleon Ok thanks
For someone attempting a less robust electrical system, just to turn on the inverter and see it drawing 9 amps would be unacceptable and send one back to the drawing board.
On some inverters, you can change the current sensing threshold on the AC Bus, and keep the inverter from waking up and consuming current.