Return of the Vise Mod - 4x6 Bandsaw - Rob's Garage
Вставка
- Опубліковано 5 жов 2024
- This project is now up for grabs in a giveaway ending 31 October 2023 - Details here: • (Closed) Channel Givea...
This is 33 minutes of me re-making a vise-lock modification that I came up with for my 4x6 bandsaw a while back. It still took forever to do and several things went wrong, but I learned plenty and finally sorted out the parting issues. If I still have this part 2 months after posting this video, then I will think of some sort of channel giveaway.
Viewer Paul Birbeck has made a drawing of this gadget for use by anyone. Grab it here as a jpg: tinyurl.com/23...
Both screws are M8 socket head. The long one has a 35mm thread, the short one is 25mm and this has the heat shrink ‘bushing’ on it. There are steel and nylon washers on each.
Check the updated description to get a nice drawing of this useful gadget.
I didn’t see you start with a centering bit, which would let the twist drill wander all over before starting. Once started off center, it will continue to meander as it cuts.
FWW, I think you could make a usable T-slot nut for a vise by cutting most of it on the bandsaw and filing the rest down by hand. It doesn’t need to do much more than fit into the slot and not turn. The round bar stock you had on hand led you down a more complex build (and to a more aesthetic part.)
I absolutely LOVED your bandsaw tuneup video. Your process was well thought out, was well explained, and easy to understand. It is the best of its kind I’ve seen.
Hey thanks Kevin. Yes it did get a center drill in there. The trouble with making videos where I'm talking is that I often have to cut it based on the voice content more than the video content, to try and make it make sense.. and then I have to leave things out.
After this video I got an MT2 collet holder for the lathe to try and improve the drilling accuracy and it seemed to work initially, but it turns out that many of the bits in that 115 piece set are just completely wonky. It's really quite a disappointing set.
Your T-nut suggestion makes good sense and some people might even have something suitable in their bits and pieces already. Thanks for the comments!
Near the beginning you talk about sawing the stock with enough to grab in the lathe plus the "stick out" for the part. And you show how you do that.
I have a suggestion for cutting longer stock for the lathe. Instead of trying to cut the minimum for the present job and winding up with a scrap that is only enough to grab, cut the maximum amount that will fit in your lathe, including the spindle bore plus enough to stick out for your part. That way you windup with a scrap that can be chucked in the lathe for a second, third, perhaps even more future parts before you are down to a scrap that is only enough for the chuck to grab. This would produce less wasted stock.
Hi Paul. Yes, you're spot on with that advice. I only just figured that out in my last project. I was looking ay pieces in my scrap drawer and I kept think.. if only I'd left a little more on that bit I could have used it again. Great tip - I'll pin it here on the video!
A few thoughts on parting….
First, what I’ve heard consistently is that tungsten carbide needs higher surface speeds than high speed steel to cut well. Note, the surface speed in feet per minute is 2 * pi * diameter (in feet) * RPM. Quinn on Blondihacks may have been using HSS tooling rather than carbide, and may have had a larger diameter part.
The second thing is that you don’t know what grade of steel your gifted stock is. I like free stuff as much or more as the next guy, but when you’re working to develop your technique, you should test it on known materials too. If you change your methods to work with Steel X, you may develop habits that don’t suit your needs in the long run.
Disclaimer- I am at best an armchair machinist, and don’t have a usable metal lathe. Someday though!
I got stuck into lots of parting tests after the mess in this video and ended up choosing that 2mm insert parting blade and slow speeds and that has been going really well. I've not touched my HSS blades since, although I suspect I'd get a good result with those if I revisited the cutting edge and angles. With the speeds, I'm starting around 200-250 (for a typical 1 inch rod or so) and then going down if it complains and up if it doesn't, but not as high as has been suggested. It's going well, but I'll definitely look more closely at the feeds and speeds for parting. That's on my list of to-do's.
And yes, you are 100% correct about the crappy metal. I was using that nasty looking rod for these early projects because I didn't want to waste my good (expensive) stuff yet. But on my recent drawbar lock video I pulled out a brand new rod of free machining steel to work on and that was far better. The old rod is gummier than the new stuff and causes smearing that I was putting down to feeds and speeds but I can tell now is the material.. so much for all those off cuts I have!
Thanks again!
I usually drill smaller pilot holes when using the tailstock, going up in 2-3mm increments. The larger bits centre more easily and the chip clearance is improved.
Yes, good point Nigel. I don't recall what I did in this video, but normally I go up in a few steps as well. However when time comes to edit the video I tend to skip a lot of the footage, especially interim steps. After this video I got hold of a 2MT ER32 collet holder for the tailstock and now I'm using that in place of the drill chuck, just for good measure. FYI, I'm giving away this gadget in the most recent video on my channel. Only one entry so far! heh.
I actually have an ER32 collect chuck which fits my tailstock, but it's a bit of a faff changing bits! I just make sure they are properly centered in the jacobs and take light pecks with the starter bit until I get to depth.
I like your nut modification for the bandsaw vice , will probably make one myself for the practice.
Cheers, Nigel
Nice mod. I'll be doing this on mine. Thanks. I'll share a couple tips I've learned (though I'm probably not worlds ahead of you on the learning curve) Fwiw, drills are not really precise cutting tools. Not even in collets. We all grow up thinking that, but then learn they generally drill overize. Depends on grind of bit. Also, how (im) perfectly straight it is in the tailstock/chuck/collet. Any deviation and it will drill a LOT larger. Also, are those actual spotting drills, or just center drills (which don't work great as spots). Anyway, I like your mod to the 4x6,and yours 900SS. I used to wrench on a lot on an old Darmah, but now just have a modern(ish) belt drive (first year 93/94 monster) Cheers.
Hi, thanks for the comments! Definitely a great little mod if I may say so myself :)
I ended up getting an MT2 collet holder after this video and that has been great; definitely more consistent than the cheap jt6 chuck I had. But I no longer trust those drills in that big set I have. Some of them are not straight and their sizes are all over the place. A couple of them are smaller than the preceding sizes, and I haven't checked them all. So, now I always use the calipers to find the size I need and ignore the numbers. I bought an affordable set of Cobalt drills, just the usual 0.5mm steps, but at least they're straight and very sharp. Long term I want to get a set of cobalts with the 0.1mm increments, but they're sold out everywhere I normally get things from and I can't afford them anyway for now.
Not sure about the spotting drills?.. I think they are centre drills... let me check the site. Yes, centre drills. I'm looking at a video to see the difference. ok I see. The spotting drill is shallower which works better with the drill than the steep chamfer of the centre drill. That makes sense. I can see a set here on the local site I buy off. Bit pricey there but I'll keep an eye out for some.
Nice with the Darmah. I've got another guy I met on here who is doing up a Darmah, more as a resto-mod as it came in pieces and wasn't complete. Will have him on the channel at some point if he gets it done. And I think about half the 900SS' over here are Darmahs in disguise too :)
I saw on another channel they used a m12 Tnut and that worked.
Why all the trouble of making the tap?
Cut a pice of your stock, face it on both sides, thread the center hole.
Then drill and tap an off center hole and screw in a hex head bolt.
Hi Pfiffi. Yes, that would certainly be another way to do it. This was basically the second or third thing I'd made on my lathe and mill and so it's just part of learning to use the machines. I'm about to be making this project a third time shortly as someone else wants one for their saw. Thanks for the comment!
Why part the stock off when you have a bandsaw? ;-)
BTW, since tuning my bandsaw up using your guide, mine now cuts pretty close to the result that I’d get from parting - just needs a very minimal facing cut and a chamfer. I’ve always had limited success doing parting off, which is more about my toolpost than anything worse.
18:50 - I was talking to my optician about machining and they said that they can make specifically zoned glasses to suit doing machining. I have some for normal use and different ones for VDU use and the VDU ones are great for that particular use case.
33:10 - Great observations! Just don’t expect to get dimensional accuracy from drills!
Hi Dave, thanks for the comments!
Great point about using the bandsaw to part and then just clean it up on the lathe. That would definitely have worked well here and I'll be remembering that next time I'm this situation. My saw is still cutting perfectly as well and I only ever leave a tiny amount to clean up when I make a cut.
I tried a bunch of different types of glasses early on, including some graduated ones and even a set with focusing wheels. I also found some safety specs that have +1 and +2 lenses in the lower part. The problem I found with all of them is that they need to start at +1 and then go stronger, but instead, they all start at zero diopter, which is no use. So for example, I the strongest I bought go to +3, but it's such a heavy graduation across the lens that it's difficult to stay focused and you get a headache as well. So what I need is something like +1.5 to +3.5. It's possible that an optician could make a custom set like that. The glasses definitely drive me mad.
I actually ended up getting an MT2 collet holder for the tailstock after this video and that has been great. I kept that big drill set but I don't trust the numbers and instead use the calipers to find the sizes I need.
Thanks again!
I also purchased a cheap set of number and letter drills, however, fractional metric drills are available in .1 mm steps however they are eye wateringly expensive. Graham Mc Donald cutting tool specialist in Girraween sell them as does Aims tools. Aims sells them individually great to replace breakages. As I commented on another video love your bandsaw mods.
heheh I was just today lamenting yet again that I didn't have a set of 0.1mm drills and I put a note to watch for a set in my 'To buy' list. That's good to know about that place that sells them individually as that is always a worry with those. I've looked up their site and added it to my notes as well. I've just ordered a DRO from China on my card and so I'm broke for now!
As this remains unclaimed on 29 June 2023, I'm going to be giving this project away to a subscriber shortly. Just need to think of a simple challenge.
Give it away? I’ll buy it!😂
@@mattsimmons2448 Hi Matt, you've got nothing on your channel, no subscribes or likes or anything. But as you're the only person who has cared about it, and if you let me know what country you're in then I might just send it to you for the cost of postage... but you have to at least be a subscriber to the channel. The guy I made it for lost out because he clearly didn't subscribe and never watched any further videos.
As far as help with your parting issues, It looks like your blade isn't DEAD on center. If you change the stick out, chances are your height of the cutter will change. There really is about no tolerance you can be off. Rigidity. It looks like you have way more stick out than you need & I can tell you on my Grizzly G0602, there were many manufacturer issues that were affecting rigidity. (compound ways had a small gap, bearings from the manufacturer were really bad, compound gib was too tall causing all kind of issues when tightened. Don't take it for granted that the machine is built/put together correctly. I seconded the slower parting speed, 180-200 works best for me, too fast and you'll get squealing and chatter, mix that with tool not on center and you'll have a bad day. I part 2" stainless with out any issues now (no, it wasn't always that way)
Hi Sean, thanks for the comments. Yes, definitely took me a while to get parting sorted after all these issues. The slow speeds were key, but keeping things tight, and also growing a third hand to apply lube all helped greatly!
This project is now up for grabs in a giveaway ending 31 October 2023 - Details here: ua-cam.com/video/JEgETgucHCI/v-deo.html
Northetn tools