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Yes, that was the point... That I'm always using the Carbide inserts because I'm just too lazy to spend time on HSS. It's year later now and I'm still too lazy! 😀

I make the video on Tiktok and then publish to IG and YT. Definitely not going to do 3 separate videos every time.

Any advice plz

Thanks James. Glad to hear your saw is going well... until it doesn't! I'm going in for some surgery in the morning and will be out of action for a few days or a week but when I get back on board I'll do some tests that I've been planning for a video. I've got some 1 inch square steel tubing and I'll put it through the saw and watch it closely. Then I also have a second blade with variable width teeth that I want to compare. I might be able to spot what's happening there with yours. In the meantime, can you see if there's anything happening at the point where it starts going off? For example, does the rear edge of the blade just start entering the cut at that point and hit the side? Also try reducing the downwards pressure with your hand and do a super-slow cut and see if that also goes off or stays straight. The could be a clue in that.

@@Ducati900SS Thank you for the detailed reply. I think you're onto something! I do remember the tension spring being a problem when I did the rebuild. I had to flip the bracket to get enough spring action. Heck i just googled it and your video was the first to pop up! I'm sure that's where I learned of it. Anyways, I have another hundred or so cuts this weekend and I'll let you know what I learn.

@@Ducati900SS Hello Rob. I hope you're recovering well from your surgery. I wanted to follow up to let you know what I learned about why my saw was cutting wacky. The solution was two fold and one was definitely the feed speed. When I slow it down manually it began cutting more true. I payed more attention to the blade itself and I noticed a brief wobble. I assumed that's where the weld was. I removed the blade for inspection and there was a kink nowhere near the weld! I'm not sure how that happened. I replaced the blade with a new one and bingo! A few adjustments later and we're back on track(no pun intended). The feed spring may be an issue I need to fix/replace before my next big cutting project. For now I got through it, but it would be nice to have that feed dialed in. I wish you well and a swift recovery!

Yeah I broke a couple on my mill too, so I swapped them for knobs instead and that's working fine there.

I wrote a reply here a couple of hours ago but it's not here.? I'll write it again: The place I got them says they ship to Australia so maybe go through the checkout and see how much it is. The site is hiq dot co dot nz and just put this into the search: 11-HBZA65S8-45. They actually have all sorts of interesting bits on there. They also have plastic handles cheaper, but these ones are real nice.

Maybe UA-cam didn't like me putting a link in the first time.

@@Ducati900SS thank you.

HI Douglas. Yes, there was definitely wonky-ness throughout. I had a variety of couplers including those rough-zinced ones and they all varied. The threads also have a lot of slop in them. In the end I decided that all it had to do was provide an adjustable pressure point and it didn't matter so much where and how large that point was. If I were going to make this from scratch rather than purchased parts, I would suggest smaller and tighter threads all around, or the precision ones you mention (I'll have a look at them after this). But otherwise the outcome of this project has been better than expected and I use it all the time. In my later videos you'll hear me constantly pointing out how useful it is 😁

@Festivejelly good that you found some bronze. I finally got some months later and will use it if I ever make another. Let me know how you get on with yours.

@@Ducati900SS In the UK we have a few suppliers where you can buy it by whatever length you want. So I just bought 30cm of a round bar. That will give me a few tries at it at least. For me im not looking to get rid of the backlash entirely, its more that I want consistent backlash and not wearing the leadscrew or nut. Right now my leadscrew has uneven wear so on my little CNC controller the backlash compensation doesnt really work. But with bearing bronze and some decent lube then it should work nicely and i can get even backlash.

@@Festivejelly Nice, that's better than what we have here. Let me know what you do in the end.

Hi Ginger. Just tighten up that dovetail. If it's loose enough that the weight of the handle makes it turn then it's way too loose. I saw a video where a guy made a balanced handle for his Sieg to try and stop it turning. It was too late to tell him, but I'll tell you :) But otherwise, yes great little lathe. Glad I got this one!

@@Ducati900SS I'll have a look at that when I'm on the machine next, I thought it felt ok, it usually only shifts back a half turn when the handle is on the right side of the screw, I've taken to holding it in place, it mostly just turns back as far as the freeplay, but it's usually enough that the momentum kicks it back about a notch on the wheel, so enough to slightly annoy me. It's not like it's winding out all the way or anything, I'll still check it, cheers mate

​@@GingerNingerGames Yes, mine was doing the same thing on the same handle, and the X-axis on my will as well. It's just because it all loosened up with use. Firming the adjustments up will fix it. Let me know how it goes once you've had a look.

heheh well I have to admit the speedo does wobble below 30k or so. It's an NOS cable and is not quite straight. I should get a new inner piece made for it.

Exciting stuff!.. is it all good or do you need to fix it up?

Yes you will... do it! :D

Hi Adam. Yes, that face mill is great. I had one of the cheap 4-insert ones as well, but it was uneven and wonky. Then I saw this one on Ausee for cheap. It looked a little better so I just took a punt on it and it's good. Could be hit and miss with these. I definitely prefer it to the HSS fly cutter set I have. Also very happy so far with how things are working in general. I need to check the accuracy of both DROs and also dome some dovetail adjustments, but otherwise both tools are pretty flawless :) Hope you're good!

Oh I like the idea of having a knob instead of the hex screw. That's even better. I'll see if I can get one of those mill bed locking levers in the right size. That could be used without an extension. I'll do an update if that works out. I actually did this project three times over as people wanted me to make them one. I decided I would do it to see if I'm any quicker than when I did this one. Hopefully you can get some tools over time.. I'm sure you will - only took me 50 years to finally get a decent workshop happening! Thanks for the comment!

@lendabloke Hi, yes very happy with this lathe. The only other options here are some Sieg models that the importer can get and the Toolshed one which is also a Sieg. This one is a step up in many if it's features. With any of these Chinese lathe you need to be prepared to adjust and fix things, just that there's less to fix on the Optimums in comparison. The 2506 is quite a lot larger and heavier than my one and if you have the space, it would be great to have. The first video in my lathe Playlist has many points that are all still valid... taper bearings, hardened ways and so on. Be ready to buy other tools and a mill if you get stuck into this!

@michaeld9149 was this the double reply a few days ago? Sometimes I forget to switch accounts and then delete and repeat.

@@karelvanspengen564 loved my Flory!

Nice, have you got closer to it yet? Let me know how you get on with it.

Thanks Tony. You could also go to the relevant clutch page on veetwo.com and put a question in the form on the page. That could help if you're wondering about anything specific.

@StoryOfJames. Great to hear! I'm going to do another one shortly where I compare a couple of different blades to confirm how they go on a few parts. Should be useful as well.

@o1b1n4m9 Hi Dan. Yes, I don't ride the bike at 200kmh but within the same scenario that previously produced the slip, it is now tight. Very happy with the results. Brook was suggesting that one can go for lighter springs with these new clutches but I installed the stock springs and am happy with that too.

Thanks so much I have a Mike hailwood with the same problem so your reply gives me confidence to try some of these clutch plates thanks again

Hi Rusty. Yes, I'm not keen on the look of the LED ones either. I got my NOS dash on eBay and it had the NOS ignition lock and NOS lights all with it. All old and dusty but cleaned up nice as you've seen in the video. There was another identical setup a few months later, but I haven't seen one since. I've never seen any of the 'lenses' for sale and If I were going to make some replacements today, I would buy the 4 colours as photographic gel filters and either cut or punch them to size. And I'd also want to try and get a bit of a dome shape into them because it's that little highlight on the curved surface that makes them look like they should and not look like LEDs. Gels are resistant to heat from lights but perhaps one could deform and press them into a dished shape with some suitably rounded tools, or even a little higher heat. I've just pulled one out of my dash to check and that's basically what they look like... a dished piece of gel. It would be a matter of trying a few methods. Tape both sides if trying to press a piece of gel into a dished shape. Let me know how you get on and what you end up doing.

@@Ducati900SS thanks mate, would’ve replied sooner only my email has been out and I’ve only just seen the notification. Yeah, I’ll definitely try the gel filters, my neutral light and ignition warning light are currently Lego green and Lego red respectively. Had to pilfer them from my kid’s old Lego sets…😂

@@rustyosh heh good one. Let me know what you end up doing and how it goes. I'll be keen to know.

@@Ducati900SS Will do

Thanks, glad you enjoyed it!

I had to look up what that is.. that's nice clean-looking traditional bike. I'm too fat to make this go fast these days. but we'll see how it goes once I put the de-restricting thing on it. Not just yet though. Have to get paperwork sorted out.

@@Ducati900SS I look forward to more videos on whatever you do. Have fun with it, and take care.

heh yes, I secretly was about 110% confident it was going to start :)

heh my thoughts exactly. But once I figured it out, it makes perfect sense and now I use it all the time, usually clamped in my main vise. Definitely a good tool to have.

Yes, will definitely follow-up with that. I want to get a fresh 75 jet, a replacement for the corroded main jet holder/atomiser and sort it out in stock mode on the street. Then after that I'll try the Takigawa and see what happens.

That's got to be what happened. That fits the story perfectly.

Got it. I did notice a small amount in the corners of the lower half-moons when I brushed them out in this video's footage, which I then cut. I'll put that in my notes. I've got a few tasks to sort out.

Excellent.. is yours stock or have you tried any of the methods to get past the limiter yet? I'm keen to hear what experience people have had.

My one is stock. I'm looking for an Takegawa CDI, but it's not easy to get in Germany. I might have to buy one at Yahoo Auctions in Japan. I'm very interested, how your one will perform with the hyper CDI.

@@Floppchen-tf6rc I saw one on eBay recently but it was a very high price. The person was also selling instruments and other bits. All too expensive tho. Those Japanese auction sites will be the best place.

Don't get a takegawa CDI all it does is defeat the rev limiter, search Google for the easy wiring modification which you can do easily (and it's easily put back to stock) ​@@Floppchen-tf6rc