Nerd-tip: If you don't have a square that's appropriate for the job, measure accurately and use the pythagorean theorem or a quick and dirty 3-4-5 triangle.
Yay for nerd tips! Really, I am tickled that someone actually thought to add this to the comment section, because it really did need said! If I hadn't seen your comment, I'd have had to make it, myself. 😄 Maths rule!
Alternatively use a compass and straight edge. One line, one circle centered on the line, second circle same size on the intersection of the previous circle and line, the intersections of the two circles make a line perfectly perpendicular to the original line
Maybe a better way to say it: a line constructed at the intersections of two circles is perpendicular to the line drawn between the center points. Sizes don't matter.
Rex, my Main Professional Woodworking was for a Hardwood Flooring Company. A very well known Master Craftsman (now deceased, RIP). One a brazillion tips he gave me, was brought to mind, when I heard you say "Saw Dust" !!! As we worked virtually All the North American HardWood Species (We even built a Madrone Floor once) we did the following for EVERY Floor that we needed too. 0 During the Sanding Process, After the first sanding was emptied (Dirty Wood is Dirty Wood), we would Collect & SAVE about a quart of saw dust! THEN when in the shop, we would use a Flour Sifter (Wives do NOT desire you return their Sifter, BUY your Own). Sift that sawdust. Now take the Sifted SAW DUST, put it in that "One unmatched cotton sock" leftover from the dryer eating its mate. ;-) lay out a full sheet of newspaper, and "beat" the toe of the sock, FILLED with that sifted wood! Huh??? Now, when the cloud of dust settles, What is upon your newspaper, we in the Hard Wood Floors Industry call "Wood Fines" or "Wood Flour" depending upon your area ! ! ! this product is saved in a baby food jar, or similar small glass container. We normally worked a LOT of Red Oak, a bit less of White Oak, a bit of Maple, etc. Ten jars of Fines. Now your use: you have a gap, inconspicuous while you are banging away at laying the floor, but a GLARING ERROR after sanding. MIX the Closest Color Fines with a wee bit of Lacquer and stuff it into that gap, let dry and it all but disappears!!! (I personally use thin super glue after just filling that gap with Fines) then Hand sand to fit. OR Finish the whole floor. ONLY the person who did this will ever see it. It truly disappears! And no, I never used any "Floor Putty" pathetic stuff and nearly always comes apart from the gap. I used this in Houses that cost 3 MILLION dollars to build, and never felt ashamed to do it. (everybody makes mistakes, a MASTER CRAFTSMAN knows how to make them disappear) !!!!
I am from the UK and it makes me quite sad when I wander through the Victorian town where I grew up looking at the incredible craftsmanship in the houses from the mid to late 19th and early 20th century. It's more brick work than carpentry that you see from the outside but it gives you an idea of the skill of the tradesmen and makes me wonder what happened to that pride in one's work within the UK. Of course, those tradesmen were poorly compensated for their skill and it is mostly on display in massive four storey brick mansions with ridiculous projecting brick turrets and decoration built for the merchant class exploiting the British Empire, so it wasn't quite the "good old days" for the working man. In fact I suspect one of the nails in the coffin of our craft heritage was the British class system that made manual labour demeaning ( "Such a common type. He works with his hand!" ). Paul is one of the last vestiges of that heritage and the classic clever lad who didn't stay on at school ( you could leave school at 15 to start an apprenticeship back in those days ) but has used that intelligence and diligence to become a sage in his field. Rant over.
Hi Rex. I was surprised that you didn't show how to make a square without having a square to use. By using two intersecting circles on a straight line and connecting the intersecting circles perpendicular line. Perfect right angle every time to use. Best regards
All you have to do is create a 3-4-5 triangle and built the square using thar as a quide. Even a string will do. However, the square has to have flat and parallel wood to work correctly, so the first part is learning to make straightedges out of wood
@@researchandbuild1751 i was thinking you could lay out three pins/nails on a flat piece of board at the vertices of a 3-4-5 triangle (say 6" 8" 10") and use that to align the two parts of the try-square.
So, I started watching your channel when I got into woodworking 8 or 9 weeks ago. Since then I have become addicted to estate sales, have a growing collection of bench planes, and am now buying and selling enough that my growing tool collection grows at no cost to me. Thanks for all the videos.
@@RexKrueger I had previously been collecting tools for knife making, but, the bench plane bug has hit me pretty hard. I find them to be an elegant tool.
@@jimcarter4929 I have been making small projects for a few weeks now. I made a small run of guided knife sharpenners, a small jewelry box, and a knife bevelling jig. I am now collecting pallet wood for a roubo style bench. But, my wife wants me to finish the backyard landscaping before I can do that. Happy wife, happy life.
Brian watching you from central Brazil! It's getting better recently, but tools and supplies have traditionally been very expensive here, so your emphasis on simple and cheap has been refreshing. Too many American videos assume that we all have a professional grade shop. *Remove the piece from your 12 inch jointer and take it over to your bandsaw. . ." Sorry, we're lucky to have a drill and a jigsaw! Thanks again
A nice touch of honesty about what can go wrong. Then how to correct it. Gives really good insight into doing a good job. A pinch of salt too. Tasty. I'll try to remember that, thanks.
To cut bridle joint (or rip) with ryoba saw, angle woods 45 degrees toward you, saw to both line at 45 degree angle (saw level), turn over and repeat same process on other side. now level wood and flush to bottom. Try it you will be amazed how well this works. Same technique for tenons. Make both cuts at in succession on on side, to time to speed up process. This is correct technique.
Just made my own small square after downloading the pdf. Really didn't need the pdf, but thought I'd make a small donation to Rex for all of his hard work. That's a hint to all of you other cheap woodworkers. The square is coming out awesome. I used walnut for the handle and oak for the rule with 1/8" brass pins (3). Finishing with Danish Oil and lacquer. 2nd application of oil is drying. I'll lacquer it in a few days. Can't wait to use it in my shop. I've got a bunch scrap pallet wood to mill so I'll be putting it to good use.
Rex, just discovered your videos and love them. A way to make a square without a square is to use a little bit of geometry... A right triangle has a simple ratio of 3 to 4 to 5. So... if you make one limb length of 3, the other limb of length 4, and then the diagonal between the ends length 5, you will have a perfect 90 degree angle. You can also make other ratios... 1 1/2 by 2 by 2 1/2... or 6 by 8 by 10, etc.
You can also use a Speed Square (if you have one) to scribe a line parallel to the edge of a board. It’s designed for that on purpose. Put your pencil or marking knife against a point on the Speed Square, put the angled “lip” against the board edge, and move the marker and Speed Square together.
As a child, I learned how to cut and nail wood with my grandfather. He teatched me how to use a hammer and a saw. He was a hobbyist and made me one too. With time I bought lots of electric tools that stay in the shelf. If I need some thing quick, I greab the power tool, but when I need something nicely done I get my old hand tools! I lost my grandfather 30 years ago, but when I hold a handsaw I remember his and over mine, guiding my cut throuth the wood. This series you are making brought me a good felling. Thanks Rex! Greatings from Brazil!
I love your videos! I'm a seasoned construction worker but often find myself in your woodworking for humans playlist dreaming about making a living with minimal tools. Thanks for the tips and tricks!!!😊
funny you post this video today, I went looking for my factory made one yesterday and well it's missing, the only thing I can figure is it got tossed out with some scrap a couple weeks ago. So now instead of buying a new one, I was planning on building a replacement. What you have done is exactly what I was planning on building for myself. It is simple and easy to do, great information for your viewers
Nice video Rex. Trimming out the windows in the house and had some Leftover 3/32" thick by 3/4" wide strips of very nice ash. Made a couple of 3" long squares that fit perfectly in the shirt pocket. Very, very handy. Used cutlery rivets at the joint. Now those are nice, handy little guys to have around.
In lieu of gluing the stick on to the speed square to turn it into a try square it should be possible to stand the board on edge on a flat surface. Then the speed square could be brought into use by resting it too on the surface and bringing its edge to the side of the board.
Very nice. Here's an idea you may like. I used to work on a lot of 3D printed parts and I used CA glue to harden the material and get a smooth finish. I would saturate the working edges of the squares with CA and after they cure (accelerant if you like), do a little smoothing with a scraper or sand paper, then go with the final finish of your choice. I think that would make a square a little longer lived, particularly with a less dense wood like the poplar. Cheap and easy too.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate this video series! The fact that you actually USE the tools that you recommend to do everything is very encouraging, especially to a novice like me. Plus, you show when things don't go according to plan, and then show how to fix that. It's super helpful, thank you!
So... I bought that square off Aliexpress that you recommended and when it arrived I was tempted to try and sand out some of the machine marks just to try and get it to feel a bit more like a precision instrument. Of course I hesitated because I didn't want to make it not square... The other day I popped over to see a friend down the road at a library at tools. "Oh we've just been given these boxes from a hoarder. You touch it, you own it" he says as I'm holding a square. Long story short: Go see your friends more often ;)
I personally like using the knife wall to guide the kerf all around the piece before cutting through. The combination of the two techniques work really well.
Hey Rex, so an inexpensive tool that I find indispensable in woodworking is a "four in hand" it's a simple rasp tool that has a round and flat wood rasp and a round and flat metal file in a simple bar. Made my tenon work so easy for the Roman work bench. Also really helpful for smoothing sharp corners or making bevels to avoid chip out like on furniture legs... seriously...if the zombie apocalypse happens... I'm bringing a knife, a hatchet, and my four-in-hand first
Hey Rex! That's a pretty great video you got there!!! Minor note you might be interested in... Binge-watching over on Jonathon Katz-Moses' channel, I happened on one of those "innocuous little tricks" regarding saws... Moses LOVES his Japanese Saws, too... so it helps. He suggested that when you're cutting, take a position that lets your "saw arm" work as straight and easy as you can (referred to the pool-player and stick)... but everyone has that advice... so you've heard it. Importantly, he said to WATCH the saw BLADE, or rather the reflection in the blade. If it stays straight, you're either dead-on or very close. Now, I've never really thought about that before, so I immediately took one of my new (to me) Vaughan Bear Saws out and grabbed a piece of "reasonably straight scrap"... AND low and behold, the reflection WILL absolutely make a straight segment between the stuff you're cutting and the end you can see... Okay, it's not a miracle, and anyone who understands basic optics can explain (probably better than me right now) how it all works with light "refracts at exactly the same angle as it hits a reflective surface" and how it's all geometry... etc... AND for the record, when you're stuck trimming off "little bits" that are completely covered by the blade, no, you can't see through the saw... BUT for anything large enough that you can see the end past the blade, lining up that reflection so it bridges the two visible segments REALLY DOES HELP!!! AND since Japanese saws are thinner than you're used to, being more prone to "wobbly stuff" it can help keep an eye on something to pace yourself while you get used to them... Otherwise, feel free to laugh at me... I mean... I'm over 40 and I just hadn't thought about it... SOOOooo I kinda laugh (almost hysterically) at me too. FOR ANYONE INTERESTED, Katz-Moses has a video regarding "Tips and tricks with Japanese Saws"... and there's a LOT more than this one in that... seriously, check him out. ;o)
Another great video! I really love the idea behind your series. It's a great way to encourage folks to have a go at a great hobby and show that they don't need a whole shop full of expensive tools.... (me looks over at the shop of expensive tools I've got.... then to the basic handtools that I really enjoy using). A trick if you want to get a bit more OCD on truing up your squares. Instead of pencil lines use knife lines. And it doesn't need to be a full line. Just a half inch hack mark near the handle and another at the tip. But now the trick. When you flip the handle over put the knife blade in the hack mark near the handle and bring the blade up to rest against the knife blade. Then holding the blade firmly in place make another hack mark at the tip of the blade and compare those two. If you have just one mark because the knife blade went right back in the line it is a wondrous thing. And if not it makes seeing even small differences a lot easier.
Well, you've inspired me: I'm making an outside 45-degree try "square" with a 50" tongue for laying out mitered tops at work, using quartered white oak -- so if I get it right, it should save a lot of time. I'll be looking for hand planes at an upcoming annual flea market and hope to be making a 45-mitered shooting board, which will save even more time. The bad news is that I rarely do that stuff. I'm the resident moulder magician.
@@RexKrueger I finished it yesterday. I tested it against a big speed square and a Nobex folding square and it looked to be dead nuts. I left the tongue long to give some inside-45 utility, and to test it. (I made a zero-clearance insert with a splitter per Stumpy Nubs, but the spitter is a little wide. It keeps the stock against the fence, so I'm not going to correct it; between that & my new Grr-Ripper push block, I've never made table-saw cuts that accurate.) Now I have to make a table-saw tenoning jig before my irresponsible co-worker shoots his goolies off. (The guy makes jigs for everything -- except the things he needs.) And a 4'-5' 45-miter shooting board for assembling big tops. Never made either of those, but it should be worth the effort. My co-worker probably needs his goolies. Thanks for the great vids!
So... cutting blade implements. I use my Stanley straight razor knife. Its really not about the tool, but how you guide the sharp bits into the wood that makes the mark. Mine cost $7.00 back in 1995 and I have used it for everything.
There are lots of ways to get things square. If I don't have any kind of square I like to use a piece of paper. It doesn't matter what shape this paper is as long as it's reasonably flat and large enough the result is useful for whatever you are going to use it for. To get a true square angle just fold the paper in half and then fold it in half again making sure the first fold is as perfectly edge to edge as you can. The result is an almost perfect 90 degree angle. It's not a perfect solution, but should be good enough to use for putting together a square like these in this video, and certainly better than trying to eyeball it. Also it's quick, easy, cheap and involves no measuring, calculations or... something else, I just totally forgot what it was while typing...
You can also take your piece of paper, a single pencil, a string, and a couple of pins (no matter what kind they are)... 1. tape the paper down to a surface you're not worried about scratch... It should be reasonably flat and capable of pins sticking into it. 2. Stick the two pins down close to the paper and tie the string to one of them, draw it tight to the other to guide your pencil, and make one straight line. 3. Now shorten the string to just over half the length between the two pins... and tie it in a loop for the pencil. Make a wide arc at the length of the string... 4. Unloop the string from the first pin and loop it to the other... and repeat the arc. 5. Move the pins to where the arcs cross... Those should cross in two places, so there's a spot for each pin. 6. Loop the string back over a pin and draw it tight to the other (same as step 1) and mark a straight line. It takes just a couple tries (at most) to get this trick "right"... BUT when done well, you not only create an exactly 90 degree mark, but your "cross" is EXACTLY half-way between the pins' original positions. It's a VERY old-school measuring and "layout" trick for architecture without "technical tools" of any kind. I mean, honestly, even in the bygone BC-periods, Architects and Engineers might've been primitive, but they DID have actual tools... rather than two pins, a bit of string, and a marking device. I use this "trick" for any template I need where I can't fit a square... and on days I've misplaced the damn thing and get too lazy to look for it... AND of course, that once in a while when some jerk decides to test my patience with dubious questions about my skill. Works pretty well with a Compass (the geometry tool, NOT the navigation tool), provided you ARE capable of a straight line... ;o)
You don't need a piece with a good edge to check a square. You just need something flat that you can put two nails in. the two nails make a line, so you don't need a reference edge. Put the square on the nails, strike a line on the rule. Flip it around, strike another line. If the lines are parallel, you're set. If they're not, figure out which way it's out, and correct it.
Um, and how do you get the same edge of the rule flipped over when the beam is pointing the other way on two points of contact? The beam will be off both nails when flipped the other direction. Do you have a video of this technique? If so please link to it in your reply. I am obviously missing something in your technique.
@@midjetville Thanks fkr yourbreply. With all respect, that will work if your dividers are exactly perpendicular to both lines. Even crooked lines can be measured by dividers and touch both lines at non perpendicular points to the other line. I suppose you could use a compass and strike arcs and see if they cross the other line, but that's only as accurate as the thickness of your pen or pencil line. As long as you feel your system is accurate enough for your work, it's all good.
@@midjetville oh, I get it now. Thanks for being patient with a brain damaged old veteran. Yup, that sure seems like it would work well, now that I understand your method. Thanks again. (Brain damage... shrapnel in the head, multiple concussions, and a stroke (stroke years after leaving the service)).
I like to cut a corner down to the baseline first while cutting across the top with my pull saw. Start with the crosscut blade to make your initial kerf at the corner. As long as I do both of those straight (the two sides I can see, so it's pretty easy) the back side pretty much has to be straight once I start cutting down that side because the rest of my cut guides it.
Rex when your chopping wood out of a joint try only taking half at a time. So if it’s a 1” joint chisel 1/2” then 1/4 “ and so on until you get Bach to your layout lines. Is is much easier and you don’t need to worry about braking wood off. Let me know how that works for you. Also I think this is a great. Channel especially for the guys just staring out on a small budget. P.s. I love you car swap idea! I live so close to Hershey I could do that every year and never thought of going there for wood working tools!
Greetings from down under. mate, I love your no-nonsense approach towards building seemingly complicated pieces of wood working aids and tools using nothing but basic tools that most of us have lying around the garage. Keep it up. Has any one mentioned you sound sooo much like Sheldon (my favourite character in the Big Bang Theory) ?
So trick you can do with a speed square. Take something strait like a paint stirrer and slide it against the inside of the squares fence. This will let you check inside edges easily without super glue. You just hold it in place with your hand by feel. I still prefer a try square or combination square, but if a speed square is what you have it will get you by.
Thats it! I'm building a square tomorrow! Just got some nice and free old unknown hardwood. No idea what kind of wood it its, but its dense and tough as nails 👌
On sawing with a pull saw: I find you should only saw what you can see, using a series of triangles. Start across the end grain and drop the saw along the waste side of the visible vertical line. Then reverse the stock and again cut what you can see. Finally finish the inside, which ironically ypu can't see.
The bridle joint is actually one of the strongest wood joints, so long as it is assembled with a good PVA glue joint. You do it a disservice saying it is not very strong. Half-lap and bridle joints are the strongest joints you can make with PVA glue. Stronger than mortise and tenon (bridle is just M&T with more glue surface area).
By the way, I am not just making that up. Fine Woodworking actually tested joint strength of 18 different joints and reported on it in their 2009-Jan issue. www.finewoodworking.com/2009/01/01/joinery-shootout The strongest joint was half-lap, and the second was bridle. 1603 half-lap 1560 bridle 1498 splined miter 1444 3/8-in mortise and tenon 1396 3/8-in floating mortise and tenon 1374 miter 1210 3/8-in wedged mortise and tenon 1162 3/8-in pinned mortise and tenon 988 5/16-in mortise and tenon 836 beadlock 759 dowelmax 717 1/4-in mortise and tenon 698 pocket screw 597 domino 545 biscuit 473 butt 313 cope and stick 200 stub tenon
Actually you can use the speed square to check narrow boards to see if they are square you turn the speed square so you are looking at the 90° corner with the widest side on top and now you have 2 small 90° corners to check square narrow stock
the only hardwood for sale anywhere around here is in the form of dowels, tool handles, stair treads and railings so you guessed it, all the hardwood i have is from old furniture
Actually, if you have and EDC pocket knife, it maybe the only knife you need. If it is a three-blade stockman-style, one of the blade is called a "sheep's foot" blade. It has a straight edge, back parallel the blade edge and a dropped tip. It's more robust than that Stanley, and if you keep it sharp, it's all the marking knife you need. Since you already own it, its even cheaper than the Stanley. I've been given the Stanley and other more mainstream marking knives and my stockman is still what I use.
Suggestion. You can make a super precise protractor from a sheet of plywood and a tape measure by using 90 or 180 units on the tape measure to form the outside of a quarter or half circle. (think pi and circumference). If you use a sheet the same with as the tape it is easy to glue on with contact cement and all you really need to do is attaching an arm in the center to give you the angle. The bigger the circle the more precise a tool you get. If you want to go really high tech, you can fabricate a vernier from som clear plastic and get 1/10 subdivisions, but it will properly be way more accurate then the actual arm you have can deliver. A tool like this is gold to have along with a carpenters bevel angle and you can even make several if you need to switch a lot between fixed angles on a project or make pins through the arm to get often used fixed angles.
I wonder if we can glue these squares with another method. Use a school compass (those with a little pencil for student) draw a perpendicular T on a paper. Put your square on, adjust the blade to the pencil mark while the glue is still wet. Use staple or nails on the edge to prevent it from moving or stringing, usually you will get a good result. Unless you got a table that is not flat.
Funny that! I built two a few weeks ago thanks to Neik Pask of PaskMakes and used dimensional millwood from HD. Need some trimming but I really like the look. Thanks for the help.
I have another suggestion for this series. Clamps. "C" clamps, bar clamps, cam clamp, those clamps made from 2 2"X2" with threaded rods in them ( you used them in the perfect joint video). Clamps are an essential part of woodworking. Being able to make them cheap would be really nice. Just a suggestion. Cheers from Canada!! P.S. Pask Makes has a good starting idea that I know you can improve on.
Do you need a plane with computer controlled lasers doing your cutting? I've never seen shavings from a laser cut in anything Hollywood has put out yet. Chunks, yeah, but shavings? I can't wait for my first true laser saw. The containment in the shop will be the most expensive part, I'm sure.
If you don't have a square handy, try using a manufactured corner of any piece of plywood or other board. They're die cut at the factory and far squarer than just about anything you have.
Try as you might, you might just get it square! Even if you don't, at least you tried. Another point: Popular was what it was, an easy to work wood and thus where its name came from.
Really enjoying your videos Rex, very nice presentation style and particularly like that you credit the advice you’ve received from your viewers. The projects also look great fun and super functional. Great work, keep it up.
A word of caution: If you use a marking knife incorrectly with a wooden square, you will accidently cut into the square and ruin the edge. Don't ask me how I know. :)
My father put multiple layers of epoxy on his wooden boat. He wore gloves but still for two weeks or so he had that typical harmless but weird skin reaction. Can that happen as well with those tiny amounts of epoxy you're handling without gloves in the video? The difference in quantity between a drop in a joint and a layer on a boat is, of course, quite significant 😅 Cheers from Vienna, Austria! 🙂
Is there any tool I could deep notch the join lines with instead of scribe them with a pencil or a marking knife? Thanks once again for your nice, instructive videos!
You probably won't read this but here is another way to see if your square is true taught to me by my grandfather. You need a small level and plumb bob, or plummet - a helpful grandchild is also needed : ) . You take your level and hold it against the tongue adjust the position until level then you use the plummet on the body from the corner if the line travel down without moving away from the edge line then it is true. inside and outside do both and be sure to compare inside tongue to inside body and the outside tongue to the outside body. Would someone please tell me if they understand this? I am not certain that I did a good job explaining it. thank you.
Man, I read all my comments. That is a fascinating suggestion. You totally explained it well, but I'm not sure I could get it set up and then also get it glued and clamped with that method. Still, totally interesting. Thank you!
I think making a working square out of only wood is the cheapest option. If you had a piece of mild steel and some epoxy lying around you could bake the rule out of metal to make it a longer wearing tool.
Nerd-tip: If you don't have a square that's appropriate for the job, measure accurately and use the pythagorean theorem or a quick and dirty 3-4-5 triangle.
Yay for nerd tips! Really, I am tickled that someone actually thought to add this to the comment section, because it really did need said! If I hadn't seen your comment, I'd have had to make it, myself. 😄 Maths rule!
Alternatively use a compass and straight edge.
One line,
one circle centered on the line,
second circle same size on the intersection of the previous circle and line,
the intersections of the two circles make a line perfectly perpendicular to the original line
Nice. 😊
Maybe a better way to say it: a line constructed at the intersections of two circles is perpendicular to the line drawn between the center points. Sizes don't matter.
@@plasmashearssize of the circles only matters if you want the perpendicular to intersect at the midpoint between the two circle centers
Rex, my Main Professional Woodworking was for a Hardwood Flooring Company. A very well known Master Craftsman (now deceased, RIP).
One a brazillion tips he gave me, was brought to mind, when I heard you say "Saw Dust" !!!
As we worked virtually All the North American HardWood Species (We even built a Madrone Floor once) we did the following for EVERY Floor that we needed too.
0
During the Sanding Process, After the first sanding was emptied (Dirty Wood is Dirty Wood), we would Collect & SAVE about a quart of saw dust! THEN when in the shop, we would use a Flour Sifter (Wives do NOT desire you return their Sifter, BUY your Own).
Sift that sawdust. Now take the Sifted SAW DUST, put it in that "One unmatched cotton sock" leftover from the dryer eating its mate. ;-)
lay out a full sheet of newspaper, and "beat" the toe of the sock, FILLED with that sifted wood! Huh???
Now, when the cloud of dust settles, What is upon your newspaper, we in the Hard Wood Floors Industry call "Wood Fines" or "Wood Flour" depending upon your area ! ! !
this product is saved in a baby food jar, or similar small glass container. We normally worked a LOT of Red Oak, a bit less of White Oak, a bit of Maple, etc. Ten jars of Fines.
Now your use: you have a gap, inconspicuous while you are banging away at laying the floor, but a GLARING ERROR after sanding. MIX the Closest Color Fines with a wee bit of Lacquer and stuff it into that gap, let dry and it all but disappears!!!
(I personally use thin super glue after just filling that gap with Fines) then Hand sand to fit. OR Finish the whole floor.
ONLY the person who did this will ever see it. It truly disappears!
And no, I never used any "Floor Putty" pathetic stuff and nearly always comes apart from the gap.
I used this in Houses that cost 3 MILLION dollars to build, and never felt ashamed to do it. (everybody makes mistakes, a MASTER CRAFTSMAN knows how to make them disappear) !!!!
Ive been wood working for over 20 years now and have never used salt for a glue up. you just got a sub. Thank you sir.
If you make cutting boards use paprika. It adds a little zing to your chicken.
It's always nice when I see Paul Seller's Techniques in other folks videos. He is the OG and his techniques have been spread far and wide.
Paul is a gangster.
I am from the UK and it makes me quite sad when I wander through the Victorian town where I grew up looking at the incredible craftsmanship in the houses from the mid to late 19th and early 20th century. It's more brick work than carpentry that you see from the outside but it gives you an idea of the skill of the tradesmen and makes me wonder what happened to that pride in one's work within the UK. Of course, those tradesmen were poorly compensated for their skill and it is mostly on display in massive four storey brick mansions with ridiculous projecting brick turrets and decoration built for the merchant class exploiting the British Empire, so it wasn't quite the "good old days" for the working man. In fact I suspect one of the nails in the coffin of our craft heritage was the British class system that made manual labour demeaning ( "Such a common type. He works with his hand!" ).
Paul is one of the last vestiges of that heritage and the classic clever lad who didn't stay on at school ( you could leave school at 15 to start an apprenticeship back in those days ) but has used that intelligence and diligence to become a sage in his field.
Rant over.
I'm an old skool wood worker. I like this guy.
The brass adds a professional flair to it for sure.
Thank you! It's not much harder to install than wooden pegs.
How'd you comment 3 days ago when it's only premiering now 0_o
@@mrfreezy7457 Early access for Patreons.
@@ian-duh Gotcha bud. Thanks.
@@ian-duh Duh!
Hi Rex. I was surprised that you didn't show how to make a square without having a square to use. By using two intersecting circles on a straight line and connecting the intersecting circles perpendicular line. Perfect right angle every time to use. Best regards
All you have to do is create a 3-4-5 triangle and built the square using thar as a quide. Even a string will do. However, the square has to have flat and parallel wood to work correctly, so the first part is learning to make straightedges out of wood
@@researchandbuild1751 i was thinking you could lay out three pins/nails on a flat piece of board at the vertices of a 3-4-5 triangle (say 6" 8" 10") and use that to align the two parts of the try-square.
So, I started watching your channel when I got into woodworking 8 or 9 weeks ago. Since then I have become addicted to estate sales, have a growing collection of bench planes, and am now buying and selling enough that my growing tool collection grows at no cost to me. Thanks for all the videos.
Wow! That's wonderful. I honestly like the tools as much as the actual woodwork.
@@RexKrueger I had previously been collecting tools for knife making, but, the bench plane bug has hit me pretty hard. I find them to be an elegant tool.
Make something.
@@jimcarter4929 I have been making small projects for a few weeks now. I made a small run of guided knife sharpenners, a small jewelry box, and a knife bevelling jig. I am now collecting pallet wood for a roubo style bench. But, my wife wants me to finish the backyard landscaping before I can do that. Happy wife, happy life.
@@benm5913 Smart husband.
Brian watching you from central Brazil!
It's getting better recently, but tools and supplies have traditionally been very expensive here, so your emphasis on simple and cheap has been refreshing.
Too many American videos assume that we all have a professional grade shop. *Remove the piece from your 12 inch jointer and take it over to your bandsaw. . ." Sorry, we're lucky to have a drill and a jigsaw!
Thanks again
I know. A lot of people need a more basic approach. I'm happy to help with that!
A nice touch of honesty about what can go wrong. Then how to correct it. Gives really good insight into doing a good job. A pinch of salt too. Tasty. I'll try to remember that, thanks.
naaa,,,, needs more garlic !!!! heheheh
To cut bridle joint (or rip) with ryoba saw, angle woods 45 degrees toward you, saw to both line at 45 degree angle (saw level), turn over and repeat same process on other side. now level wood and flush to bottom. Try it you will be amazed how well this works. Same technique for tenons. Make both cuts at in succession on on side, to time to speed up process. This is correct technique.
Well said. You read my mind. I always cut one side, the other, then square the depth, even with western saws.
^
This is the way
Just made my own small square after downloading the pdf. Really didn't need the pdf, but thought I'd make a small donation to Rex for all of his hard work. That's a hint to all of you other cheap woodworkers. The square is coming out awesome. I used walnut for the handle and oak for the rule with 1/8" brass pins (3). Finishing with Danish Oil and lacquer. 2nd application of oil is drying. I'll lacquer it in a few days. Can't wait to use it in my shop. I've got a bunch scrap pallet wood to mill so I'll be putting it to good use.
Ah, rescued pallet wood - a person after my own heart!
Something about your videos gets me really excited to just make stuff even if it's not perfect. Thanks Buddy.
Rex, just discovered your videos and love them. A way to make a square without a square is to use a little bit of geometry...
A right triangle has a simple ratio of 3 to 4 to 5. So... if you make one limb length of 3, the other limb of length 4, and then the diagonal between the ends length 5, you will have a perfect 90 degree angle. You can also make other ratios... 1 1/2 by 2 by 2 1/2... or 6 by 8 by 10, etc.
You can also use a Speed Square (if you have one) to scribe a line parallel to the edge of a board. It’s designed for that on purpose. Put your pencil or marking knife against a point on the Speed Square, put the angled “lip” against the board edge, and move the marker and Speed Square together.
I made my own speed square here in Tobago. You are correct...can't check certain edges with it so now I will make a mahogany tri-square. Thanks!
Made you own speed square? That's really interesting!
As a child, I learned how to cut and nail wood with my grandfather. He teatched me how to use a hammer and a saw. He was a hobbyist and made me one too. With time I bought lots of electric tools that stay in the shelf. If I need some thing quick, I greab the power tool, but when I need something nicely done I get my old hand tools! I lost my grandfather 30 years ago, but when I hold a handsaw I remember his and over mine, guiding my cut throuth the wood. This series you are making brought me a good felling. Thanks Rex! Greatings from Brazil!
Man, that's a great story! Thanks for sharing!
I love your videos! I'm a seasoned construction worker but often find myself in your woodworking for humans playlist dreaming about making a living with minimal tools. Thanks for the tips and tricks!!!😊
I have one of those Stanley 10-049 knives in black. Have had it for a number of years. It is a convenient little knife for small things.
I've never heard of using salt before. Thanks for the tip.
@tgmforum tgmforum doesn't effect basic wood glues at all.
funny you post this video today, I went looking for my factory made one yesterday and well it's missing, the only thing I can figure is it got tossed out with some scrap a couple weeks ago. So now instead of buying a new one, I was planning on building a replacement. What you have done is exactly what I was planning on building for myself. It is simple and easy to do, great information for your viewers
Hope I get to see it!
Nice video Rex. Trimming out the windows in the house and had some Leftover 3/32" thick by 3/4" wide strips of very nice ash. Made a couple of 3" long squares that fit perfectly in the shirt pocket. Very, very handy. Used cutlery rivets at the joint. Now those are nice, handy little guys to have around.
In lieu of gluing the stick on to the speed square to turn it into a try square it should be possible to stand the board on edge on a flat surface. Then the speed square could be brought into use by resting it too on the surface and bringing its edge to the side of the board.
Very nice. Here's an idea you may like. I used to work on a lot of 3D printed parts and I used CA glue to harden the material and get a smooth finish. I would saturate the working edges of the squares with CA and after they cure (accelerant if you like), do a little smoothing with a scraper or sand paper, then go with the final finish of your choice. I think that would make a square a little longer lived, particularly with a less dense wood like the poplar. Cheap and easy too.
I have done this in the past. Totally works.
I can't tell you how much I appreciate this video series! The fact that you actually USE the tools that you recommend to do everything is very encouraging, especially to a novice like me. Plus, you show when things don't go according to plan, and then show how to fix that. It's super helpful, thank you!
Well, I pay for all my tools out of pocket, so I better use them! Thanks for watching!
So... I bought that square off Aliexpress that you recommended and when it arrived I was tempted to try and sand out some of the machine marks just to try and get it to feel a bit more like a precision instrument. Of course I hesitated because I didn't want to make it not square...
The other day I popped over to see a friend down the road at a library at tools.
"Oh we've just been given these boxes from a hoarder. You touch it, you own it" he says as I'm holding a square.
Long story short: Go see your friends more often ;)
Brilliant!
I personally like using the knife wall to guide the kerf all around the piece before cutting through. The combination of the two techniques work really well.
Hey Rex, so an inexpensive tool that I find indispensable in woodworking is a "four in hand" it's a simple rasp tool that has a round and flat wood rasp and a round and flat metal file in a simple bar. Made my tenon work so easy for the Roman work bench. Also really helpful for smoothing sharp corners or making bevels to avoid chip out like on furniture legs... seriously...if the zombie apocalypse happens... I'm bringing a knife, a hatchet, and my four-in-hand first
Yes! I talked about them in a previous video. Love them.
@@RexKrueger oh! I must've missed that one. Sorry. Keep up the great work!
Hey Rex! That's a pretty great video you got there!!!
Minor note you might be interested in...
Binge-watching over on Jonathon Katz-Moses' channel, I happened on one of those "innocuous little tricks" regarding saws... Moses LOVES his Japanese Saws, too... so it helps. He suggested that when you're cutting, take a position that lets your "saw arm" work as straight and easy as you can (referred to the pool-player and stick)... but everyone has that advice... so you've heard it.
Importantly, he said to WATCH the saw BLADE, or rather the reflection in the blade. If it stays straight, you're either dead-on or very close.
Now, I've never really thought about that before, so I immediately took one of my new (to me) Vaughan Bear Saws out and grabbed a piece of "reasonably straight scrap"... AND low and behold, the reflection WILL absolutely make a straight segment between the stuff you're cutting and the end you can see...
Okay, it's not a miracle, and anyone who understands basic optics can explain (probably better than me right now) how it all works with light "refracts at exactly the same angle as it hits a reflective surface" and how it's all geometry... etc... AND for the record, when you're stuck trimming off "little bits" that are completely covered by the blade, no, you can't see through the saw... BUT for anything large enough that you can see the end past the blade, lining up that reflection so it bridges the two visible segments REALLY DOES HELP!!!
AND since Japanese saws are thinner than you're used to, being more prone to "wobbly stuff" it can help keep an eye on something to pace yourself while you get used to them...
Otherwise, feel free to laugh at me... I mean... I'm over 40 and I just hadn't thought about it... SOOOooo I kinda laugh (almost hysterically) at me too.
FOR ANYONE INTERESTED, Katz-Moses has a video regarding "Tips and tricks with Japanese Saws"... and there's a LOT more than this one in that... seriously, check him out. ;o)
You had me at "glue a piece of stock to your speed square"
Another great video! I really love the idea behind your series. It's a great way to encourage folks to have a go at a great hobby and show that they don't need a whole shop full of expensive tools.... (me looks over at the shop of expensive tools I've got.... then to the basic handtools that I really enjoy using).
A trick if you want to get a bit more OCD on truing up your squares. Instead of pencil lines use knife lines. And it doesn't need to be a full line. Just a half inch hack mark near the handle and another at the tip. But now the trick. When you flip the handle over put the knife blade in the hack mark near the handle and bring the blade up to rest against the knife blade. Then holding the blade firmly in place make another hack mark at the tip of the blade and compare those two. If you have just one mark because the knife blade went right back in the line it is a wondrous thing. And if not it makes seeing even small differences a lot easier.
Thanks for the tip! (I've got all the big machines, too).
And maybe the most important: make sure your board's edge is absolutely straight. Otherwise the whole test makes no sense.
I was wondering how one could make a square without a square... Now I know (and feel a little stupid I didn't). Thanks man.
Well, you've inspired me: I'm making an outside 45-degree try "square" with a 50" tongue for laying out mitered tops at work, using quartered white oak -- so if I get it right, it should save a lot of time. I'll be looking for hand planes at an upcoming annual flea market and hope to be making a 45-mitered shooting board, which will save even more time.
The bad news is that I rarely do that stuff. I'm the resident moulder magician.
I hope you do it!
@@RexKrueger I finished it yesterday. I tested it against a big speed square and a Nobex folding square and it looked to be dead nuts. I left the tongue long to give some inside-45 utility, and to test it.
(I made a zero-clearance insert with a splitter per Stumpy Nubs, but the spitter is a little wide. It keeps the stock against the fence, so I'm not going to correct it; between that & my new Grr-Ripper push block, I've never made table-saw cuts that accurate.)
Now I have to make a table-saw tenoning jig before my irresponsible co-worker shoots his goolies off. (The guy makes jigs for everything -- except the things he needs.) And a 4'-5' 45-miter shooting board for assembling big tops. Never made either of those, but it should be worth the effort. My co-worker probably needs his goolies.
Thanks for the great vids!
So... cutting blade implements. I use my Stanley straight razor knife. Its really not about the tool, but how you guide the sharp bits into the wood that makes the mark. Mine cost $7.00 back in 1995 and I have used it for everything.
Thanks from Thailand for your videos, they're easy understanding and practical for newbie woodworker.
There are lots of ways to get things square. If I don't have any kind of square I like to use a piece of paper. It doesn't matter what shape this paper is as long as it's reasonably flat and large enough the result is useful for whatever you are going to use it for. To get a true square angle just fold the paper in half and then fold it in half again making sure the first fold is as perfectly edge to edge as you can. The result is an almost perfect 90 degree angle. It's not a perfect solution, but should be good enough to use for putting together a square like these in this video, and certainly better than trying to eyeball it. Also it's quick, easy, cheap and involves no measuring, calculations or... something else, I just totally forgot what it was while typing...
You can also take your piece of paper, a single pencil, a string, and a couple of pins (no matter what kind they are)...
1. tape the paper down to a surface you're not worried about scratch... It should be reasonably flat and capable of pins sticking into it.
2. Stick the two pins down close to the paper and tie the string to one of them, draw it tight to the other to guide your pencil, and make one straight line.
3. Now shorten the string to just over half the length between the two pins... and tie it in a loop for the pencil. Make a wide arc at the length of the string...
4. Unloop the string from the first pin and loop it to the other... and repeat the arc.
5. Move the pins to where the arcs cross... Those should cross in two places, so there's a spot for each pin.
6. Loop the string back over a pin and draw it tight to the other (same as step 1) and mark a straight line.
It takes just a couple tries (at most) to get this trick "right"... BUT when done well, you not only create an exactly 90 degree mark, but your "cross" is EXACTLY half-way between the pins' original positions. It's a VERY old-school measuring and "layout" trick for architecture without "technical tools" of any kind. I mean, honestly, even in the bygone BC-periods, Architects and Engineers might've been primitive, but they DID have actual tools... rather than two pins, a bit of string, and a marking device.
I use this "trick" for any template I need where I can't fit a square... and on days I've misplaced the damn thing and get too lazy to look for it... AND of course, that once in a while when some jerk decides to test my patience with dubious questions about my skill.
Works pretty well with a Compass (the geometry tool, NOT the navigation tool), provided you ARE capable of a straight line... ;o)
I am from Pakistan and big fan of you ❤
You don't need a piece with a good edge to check a square. You just need something flat that you can put two nails in. the two nails make a line, so you don't need a reference edge. Put the square on the nails, strike a line on the rule. Flip it around, strike another line. If the lines are parallel, you're set. If they're not, figure out which way it's out, and correct it.
Now THAT is a hot tip. Thanks!
Um, and how do you get the same edge of the rule flipped over when the beam is pointing the other way on two points of contact? The beam will be off both nails when flipped the other direction. Do you have a video of this technique? If so please link to it in your reply. I am obviously missing something in your technique.
@@midjetville Thanks fkr yourbreply. With all respect, that will work if your dividers are exactly perpendicular to both lines. Even crooked lines can be measured by dividers and touch both lines at non perpendicular points to the other line. I suppose you could use a compass and strike arcs and see if they cross the other line, but that's only as accurate as the thickness of your pen or pencil line. As long as you feel your system is accurate enough for your work, it's all good.
@@midjetville oh, I get it now. Thanks for being patient with a brain damaged old veteran. Yup, that sure seems like it would work well, now that I understand your method.
Thanks again.
(Brain damage... shrapnel in the head, multiple concussions, and a stroke (stroke years after leaving the service)).
I like to cut a corner down to the baseline first while cutting across the top with my pull saw. Start with the crosscut blade to make your initial kerf at the corner. As long as I do both of those straight (the two sides I can see, so it's pretty easy) the back side pretty much has to be straight once I start cutting down that side because the rest of my cut guides it.
Good tip!
I carry a folding razor knife. I have used it to make Mark's for years. Less than $15 and blades are cheap and easy.
Rex when your chopping wood out of a joint try only taking half at a time. So if it’s a 1” joint chisel 1/2” then 1/4 “ and so on until you get Bach to your layout lines. Is is much easier and you don’t need to worry about braking wood off.
Let me know how that works for you. Also I think this is a great. Channel especially for the guys just staring out on a small budget.
P.s. I love you car swap idea! I live so close to Hershey I could do that every year and never thought of going there for wood working tools!
Greetings from down under. mate, I love your no-nonsense approach towards building seemingly complicated pieces of wood working aids and tools using nothing but basic tools that most of us have lying around the garage. Keep it up. Has any one mentioned you sound sooo much like Sheldon (my favourite character in the Big Bang Theory) ?
Paul Sellers would be proud of you.
High praise!
Agree!
Just found this vid to go along with your plans. So this means that, if I look at it the right way, I could find you --- In Toolerable! 😃
So trick you can do with a speed square. Take something strait like a paint stirrer and slide it against the inside of the squares fence. This will let you check inside edges easily without super glue. You just hold it in place with your hand by feel. I still prefer a try square or combination square, but if a speed square is what you have it will get you by.
Thats it! I'm building a square tomorrow! Just got some nice and free old unknown hardwood. No idea what kind of wood it its, but its dense and tough as nails 👌
Then you're good to go. Good luck!
On sawing with a pull saw: I find you should only saw what you can see, using a series of triangles. Start across the end grain and drop the saw along the waste side of the visible vertical line. Then reverse the stock and again cut what you can see. Finally finish the inside, which ironically ypu can't see.
The bridle joint is actually one of the strongest wood joints, so long as it is assembled with a good PVA glue joint. You do it a disservice saying it is not very strong. Half-lap and bridle joints are the strongest joints you can make with PVA glue. Stronger than mortise and tenon (bridle is just M&T with more glue surface area).
By the way, I am not just making that up. Fine Woodworking actually tested joint strength of 18 different joints and reported on it in their 2009-Jan issue.
www.finewoodworking.com/2009/01/01/joinery-shootout
The strongest joint was half-lap, and the second was bridle.
1603 half-lap
1560 bridle
1498 splined miter
1444 3/8-in mortise and tenon
1396 3/8-in floating mortise and tenon
1374 miter
1210 3/8-in wedged mortise and tenon
1162 3/8-in pinned mortise and tenon
988 5/16-in mortise and tenon
836 beadlock
759 dowelmax
717 1/4-in mortise and tenon
698 pocket screw
597 domino
545 biscuit
473 butt
313 cope and stick
200 stub tenon
I will need to read that.
Actually you can use the speed square to check narrow boards to see if they are square you turn the speed square so you are looking at the 90° corner with the widest side on top and now you have 2 small 90° corners to check square narrow stock
Lay the speed square flat across the face you need the line using the wide base on the opposite side to hold it on the edge.
Hello and thanks for all your tremendously practical workshops! I am from Australia and I enjoy every time I watch your website!
the only hardwood for sale anywhere around here is in the form of dowels, tool handles, stair treads and railings so you guessed it, all the hardwood i have is from old furniture
Actually, if you have and EDC pocket knife, it maybe the only knife you need. If it is a three-blade stockman-style, one of the blade is called a "sheep's foot" blade. It has a straight edge, back parallel the blade edge and a dropped tip. It's more robust than that Stanley, and if you keep it sharp, it's all the marking knife you need. Since you already own it, its even cheaper than the Stanley. I've been given the Stanley and other more mainstream marking knives and my stockman is still what I use.
Man, now I'm going to spend HOURS learning about these knives. Thanks. :)
Suggestion. You can make a super precise protractor from a sheet of plywood and a tape measure by using 90 or 180 units on the tape measure to form the outside of a quarter or half circle. (think pi and circumference).
If you use a sheet the same with as the tape it is easy to glue on with contact cement and all you really need to do is attaching an arm in the center to give you the angle. The bigger the circle the more precise a tool you get.
If you want to go really high tech, you can fabricate a vernier from som clear plastic and get 1/10 subdivisions, but it will properly be way more accurate then the actual arm you have can deliver.
A tool like this is gold to have along with a carpenters bevel angle and you can even make several if you need to switch a lot between fixed angles on a project or make pins through the arm to get often used fixed angles.
You know what I use for melamine....... ikea furniture I find on the side of the road. Cheap desks are my favorite
That's where ALL mine comes from. It's really a very fine material for some things. I'm always excited to get some good pieces.
dude, Rex, Thank you for your content. it helps me out so much.
pask makes teaches how to true a wood square love this series
I wonder if we can glue these squares with another method. Use a school compass (those with a little pencil for student) draw a perpendicular T on a paper. Put your square on, adjust the blade to the pencil mark while the glue is still wet. Use staple or nails on the edge to prevent it from moving or stringing, usually you will get a good result. Unless you got a table that is not flat.
Just finished the video Rex, well done the brass pins really added to the look of that square.
That's very kind of you to say!
Funny that! I built two a few weeks ago thanks to Neik Pask of PaskMakes and used dimensional millwood from HD. Need some trimming but I really like the look. Thanks for the help.
That's "Neil" Pask.
Oh, I know all about Pask!
Love your vids Rex, keep doing them because its straight up amazing. You always motivate me to figure stuff out and work.
I have another suggestion for this series. Clamps. "C" clamps, bar clamps, cam clamp, those clamps made from 2 2"X2" with threaded rods in them ( you used them in the perfect joint video). Clamps are an essential part of woodworking. Being able to make them cheap would be really nice. Just a suggestion. Cheers from Canada!! P.S. Pask Makes has a good starting idea that I know you can improve on.
I might do that!
Thanks for sharing the goofs with the successes
Anything less is just not honest.
Just found your videos about a week ago and loving them. I have learned a lot of new techniques and tips. Really appreciate the work!!
I loved iti. Greetings from Portugal.
You should show how to make a chisel sharpening jig since it’s a very popular tool that’s a minimalist tool
I can't wait for the Woodworking For Aliens series! Zero-G plane shavings, here I come.
How did you know we are planning on going to Area 51, are your a time traveler
Aliens don't have planes. They have saucers!
@@AquaPeet great comment!
Do you need a plane with computer controlled lasers doing your cutting? I've never seen shavings from a laser cut in anything Hollywood has put out yet. Chunks, yeah, but shavings? I can't wait for my first true laser saw. The containment in the shop will be the most expensive part, I'm sure.
Yay :D
Lovely things and jolly useful.
Super tutorial! You have lots of great information on making your own tri-square. Thanks for sharing this.
If you don't have a square handy, try using a manufactured corner of any piece of plywood or other board. They're die cut at the factory and far squarer than just about anything you have.
Try as you might, you might just get it square! Even if you don't, at least you tried.
Another point: Popular was what it was, an easy to work wood and thus where its name came from.
I have a feeling you will be making a marking knife before to long, hey you make everything else. Keep it up . Great job.
Axminster sell a nice single bevel craft knife for like 8 pounds in the UK, came sharp.
Really enjoying your videos Rex, very nice presentation style and particularly like that you credit the advice you’ve received from your viewers.
The projects also look great fun and super functional. Great work, keep it up.
Great tips on the how-to's, Rex! This one will certainly go into my DIY to-do playlist!
Love your videos rex. Especially this series, it really speaks to my level of woodworking
Give it a 'try'? 'Try' it out? You're a real square, Rex!
Love the videos, Rex! Would love to see you make a shooting board as a part of this series.
I think I should do that!
I use my pocket knife for marking, just make sure it is sharp!
You got a full on laugh out loud with the “try it out.” Thanks for always being a great resource.
Oh... Brazil here! 😊
It's Okay, Rex, if at first you don't succeed, Tri Tri again. Then test and correct all three. Well done.
Good one!
You should team up with Jeremy Fielding to build some kind of sander or band saw from scrap.
That'd be great!
I'd be honored to work with Jeremy. That dude is a genius!
Very nice try squares.
Thank you!
A word of caution: If you use a marking knife incorrectly with a wooden square, you will accidently cut into the square and ruin the edge. Don't ask me how I know. :)
Wish I had that much scrap-wood lying around... hardwood of any kind is really difficult to get your hands on around here
Nice try squares!
Keepin it fun, light hearted and educational. Nice!
My father put multiple layers of epoxy on his wooden boat. He wore gloves but still for two weeks or so he had that typical harmless but weird skin reaction. Can that happen as well with those tiny amounts of epoxy you're handling without gloves in the video? The difference in quantity between a drop in a joint and a layer on a boat is, of course, quite significant 😅
Cheers from Vienna, Austria! 🙂
popler is hardwood? I thought it was pretty soft, considering how quickly it grows
Great video!!!! Keep up the good work :) Cheers from Canada!!!
Or buy/look for a flat metal angle bracket. Draw a perfect right angle to check it's true and you're good to go.
Hola from Victoria, Australia.
I love how you use the worlds cheapest plane, the $30 work bench, the bench dog "vise", and so on. :D
I'm not sure, but I think Harbor Freight has a similarly made plane to this Stanley for a little less money.
Is there any tool I could deep notch the join lines with
instead of scribe them with a pencil or a marking knife?
Thanks once again for your nice, instructive videos!
You probably won't read this but here is another way to see if your square is true taught to me by my grandfather. You need a small level and plumb bob, or plummet - a helpful grandchild is also needed : ) . You take your level and hold it against the tongue adjust the position until level then you use the plummet on the body from the corner if the line travel down without moving away from the edge line then it is true. inside and outside do both and be sure to compare inside tongue to inside body and the outside tongue to the outside body. Would someone please tell me if they understand this? I am not certain that I did a good job explaining it. thank you.
Man, I read all my comments. That is a fascinating suggestion. You totally explained it well, but I'm not sure I could get it set up and then also get it glued and clamped with that method. Still, totally interesting. Thank you!
Have a look at By hand and By eye: Tolpin and Walker
I looked that book up and they are hundreds of dollars. Do you have a better source? Lol the title really intrigues me. I like Jim tolpin
georgefellow ahah! Their Classes on the website is superbe.
georgefellow www.byhandandeye.com/
@@ikust007 thank you sir! I just looked on Amazon and eBay through the apps on my phone. I didn't even realize they had a website. It looks awesome!
I have it. Love it!
How you test em, make two and test any and all opposing edges vs each other.
I think making a working square out of only wood is the cheapest option. If you had a piece of mild steel and some epoxy lying around you could bake the rule out of metal to make it a longer wearing tool.
Rex one thing you need on your site is a sign in link.