HOW TO Calibrate any laptop or build in display using X-Rite i1Profiler with X-Rite i1Display Pro
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- Опубліковано 24 чер 2024
- HOW TO Calibrate any laptop or build in display using X-Rite i1Profiler with X-Rite i1Display Pro
This guide will work with Calibrite Devices and ColorChecker Profiler as well (ccProfile).
In this video Art Suwansang will show you how to calibrate your devices with a build in screen, this includes any laptop Mac or PC, Apple iMac, iMac Pro, and any all in one pc using X-Rite i1Profiler with X-Rite i1Display Pro. The overall tutorial on how to calibrate your screen will cover computer with external displays as well. However, this video is specific to devices with build in screen because there are settings that you must disable for both Mac and PC before you do you any display calibration. Because most of the time these devices are portable and are used in multiple lighting situation being able to set to the correct luminance level every time you want to do any serious image or video editing is crucial. This video will show you how to precise find the brightness value for your device whether you have the previous generation Apple Laptop with function keys or the newer ones with Touch Bar, or even if you have an iMac, iMac Pro or any all in one pc.
Do note that if you have invested in an external hardware calibrated display, you should use the display manufacture proprietary software to do a calibration on the external display.
UPDATE: the guide shown in this video will work for Calibrite Devices and ColorChecker Profiler (ccProfile) as well. There may be some GUI and branding changes, however, the software fundamental is still the same.
If you are unfamiliar X-Rite Transitioned this consumer product portfolio to a newly formed company called Calibrite, which is short for Calibration Done Right, on July 1st, 2021.
Find out more about this announcement in this video • Introducing Calibrite ...
HOW TO: macOS Display Settings to turn off before Color Calibration 2020 Update (before macOS Monterey)
• HOW TO: macOS Display ...
macOS Monterey | Display Preferences to our off before Calibration!
• macOS Monterey | Displ...
ColorChecker Display Pro amzn.to/3ownEpH
ColorChecker Studio amzn.to/3S4dWYZ
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Video Sections:
0:00 Introduction
5:41 Settings to disable on Mac
8:47 Settings to disable on Windows 10 / PC
10:07 Calibration Setup with i1Profiler
14:31 Setting Display Brightness for Mac with function keys (Pre 2016)
18:00 Setting Display Brightness for Mac with Touch Bar
19:34 Setting Display Brightness for Windows/PC Laptop
21:13 i1Profiler Calibration
22:40 Calibration Validation
Director of Photography & Filming by
Ashlyn Hulin & Art Suwansang
Background music by bensound.com, "creativeminds" - Наука та технологія
I would appreciate it, if you like this video and subscribe to my channel.
:)
Done!!!
A question. Why do you like the colorimeter much more? The i1 studio costs a lot more but it comes with the limited i1 studio software but shouldn't the device be just as accurate? Or do you have any comparisons on the i1 studio vs the i1 disply pro? Any significant differences in the delta e values?
The overall result between these two devices come very close to each other. As you mentioned the i1Studio software is fairly limited compared to the i1Profiler. On the high end of the color spectrophotometer such as the i1Photo Pro 3 or 3 Plus, the devices are better. As for the entry models they would be just about the same. And even though the values are very close to each other I still prefer the look of the calorimeter better than the color spectrophotometer, plus it calibrates much faster than a color spectrophotometer as well.
@@ArtIsRight So much great information. Thanks Art :)
Still coming back to this video, simply the best!
Thank you!
I'm not sure how this video is virtually unnoticed. Hands down the best how to for the I1 profiler. Thank you!
Hi Chris, thank you for the compliment! Please like and share, it helps!
I am glad I found it
Thanks Ricky!
Hands down best review I could find thank you
Hi @Chris Wells. Thank you! Glad to help out.
Thanks. This is one of the few videos I keep marked for future reference.
You're welcome!
best review I could find thank you
Thank you!
Great video! Clear and helpful.
Thank you!
Great stuff, Art. Thanks, as always...
Thank you! Cheers!
Wow! Thanks for making it extremely easy to understand the advanced settings as well as the proper cd/m2 setting for my iMac.
Sure thing!
@@ArtIsRightStrange thing happened once I opened Lightroom after setting the cd/m2 to 100. The images had a nasty color banding. I went back to 120 cd/m2 and all was good. You able to explain what might have caused this?
I would probably profile at 100 nits again and see if the banding still happens. It could just be 1 bad icc profile
@@ArtIsRight You were right. That corrected it. This all started with my prints coming out of Lightroom as too dark. After using the new 100 cd/m2 profile, I made a print after making brightness adjustments to it and it's a much better match. Sadly, my entire photo catalog is all too dark. But at least I'm making progress. Thanks!
Progress is always good! Glad that is figured out!
No doubt the best video - short ant precise - Thanks
Glad it was helpful!
Excellent video. Very helpful.
Glad it was helpful!
Very informative vid. Other vids posted by reviewers left out so many steps.colormunki display was my hardware. I upgraded my mac to mojave os recently. Colormunki display software was no longer supported. I installed i1display studio software.x rite made life easy by keeping colormunki compatible withe the new software. Omg it was a completely new experience. Colormunki was a simple app. I was able to use the colormunki device with the new software. I tip toed through the calibration and was successful. Now with your vid I can strut thru future calibrations. Thank you.
@David davidd, you're welcome. Glad that I could help out. Please share this video!
@@ArtIsRight I dimmed the display brightness using the "lower brightness" key. then I remembered I just did a display calibration. do I have to recalibrate? should I keep my fingers off the dim and brighten keys?
@David davidd, no need to recalibrate also long as you can remember how many count it is from full brightness. You can just reset the brightness to the optimal value based on the count that you did during calibration and then you are set!
Congrats , you are great at what you do
Thank you!
Nice guide, thanks. I do a lot of laptop testing. Is there any way to do the quality check or similar before creating the calibration profile? For the purposes of comparison, it may be good if I can show the Delta E values of the laptop panel stock from the factory, and then after the i1 calibration has completed to show how it changes things. The goal would be to show someone what Delta E to expect with an out of the box config (though of course this will differ between panels).
Thank you! And I just check out your review, really nice! For that you would have to use a program such as CalMan which will give you the read out before and after calibration, it is an expensive program to get, and I think that they just moved to a subscription program but it cost thousands of dollars to license per year. www.portrait.com Another open source program that you can look at is called DisplayCal, I have lot of issues with this Dev team, the fact that they use generic, unlicensed / optimized driver for calibration but it is worth looking into as well. Hope this helps!
Thank you for explanation! 🙏
@AlSo, you’re welcome!
Excellent! And thank you.
You're welcome!
Absolutely great video with excellent detail on how to manage the luminance manually during calibration. I was not sure how the gamma should be set prior to starting calibration?
@Mike Sanchez, depending on the display that you have some you can change the gamma, many you cannot. But if you can the best gamma to use is 2.2 which has been the de facto industry standard.
Great review, thank you.
Glad it was helpful!
Great stuff. Thanks.
Glad it was helpful!
Just found your UA-cam, I'm very happy that I did--you have my attention. Excellent explanation, as many others have said. Thank you very much. I'm new to calibration, I have the X-Rite i1Display. I have read that the DisplayCal3 App is the gold standard. I have no way to judge if it is or not--it would be time consuming to do so. You received 2 questions related to DisplayCal. Do you have any advice/comments on which app to use? Like many, my objective is simply to have my monitor setup to reflect what will come out on paper--as best I can. (next time I purchase a monitor I will be paying close attention to what BenQ you recommend)
If you are going to print I would skipped DisplayCal. Depending on what you it may or may not be the gold standard. For printing X-Rite is King. For Davinci Resolve and video editing, DisplayCal will work but there are other softwares that are better than DisplayCal. Hope this helps and I'm glad you found the channel! If you have any videos that you like to see let me know, welcome!
thank you very much
You are welcome
Great informative video! If you were to re-calibrate the display a second time or third time, do you change the ICC profile of the display back to what it was before any of the calibrations?
@Harold, thank you! To answer your question, you don't need to do that. i1Profiler will do that automatically for you. Before i1Profiler flashes into the calibration screen, you'll notice that the screen color shifts, this is when it automatically revert the display profile back to the original state before calibration.
Just what I was looking for to calibrate my Mac book pro with my new i1Display Pro. My delta E quality value was very good, 0.7. Should be getting my BenQ 4k monitor in a couple of days so I can edit on both displays knowing I will be getting true colours.
That's Awesome!
Excellent!!!!
Thank you!
Awesome thanks :)
@Craig, you're welcome!
Thanks, really good explanation!
TIP: by pressing shift+alt you can increase/decrease by 1/4 so you can adjust the brightness quite accurate on a Mac, same for the volume!!!
Just wondering if there is any tutorial about calibrating an external monitor (like Eizo) on a MacBookPro and how to match colors, if possible! Eizo has its own sofware and using the X-Rite (iProfiler) on the laptop seems to compete with the external monitor calibration. (Maybe redundant!)
Thanks again.
@Nan Ram, thank you for the feed back and depending on what version macOS you are running the shift method may or may not work. Apple have changed quite a few things in the their last few release of macOS, I was aware of the shift function but I am unable to use it for the past few releases. If you know otherwise let me know, also what version of macOS are you using? About matching the color, I have a few videos on how to calibrated BenQ SW hardware calibrated display that covers similar ground and concepts. What it really comes down to is that you will get those two display looking close but they'll never match exactly. Inherently, they use 2 different backlight technologies and it would be hard to match them exactly.
Art, I have finally done an advanced profile like yours, just a couple of questions, do I have to leave the brightness level on my mac at the brightness adjusted level within the profile, and why was your threshold levels so much lower than mine (50/50) ??? Thank you in advance and as always you're the best instructor for this on the net! Saludos!
You can change the brightness up and down as necessary, hence why I showed how to get back to the proper value quickly using the brightness keys. As far as value each machines and back light are different which explains the variation.
Great video, learned a lot from it, thanks. I have a question: I have a MacBook Pro Retina 15", just like in your video, which I have a Dell U2713HM screen connected to my Mac. Do I calibrate my lap top or the Dell screen?
I would calibrate both, use this guide (the one that you commented on) to calibrate your laptop display. Use this guide ua-cam.com/video/h_TT9O2I1b4/v-deo.html to calibrate your Dell external. Cheers! Know that they won’t match, explained here ua-cam.com/video/NxTNSkxgVP8/v-deo.html
Thanks for your video, really helpful. Once you calibrate and apply the profile, are you supposed to edit your images with the luminance you set? (aka, not going full luminosity?)
That is correct you have to use that number of notches from full brightness to bring you display brightness back to the calibrated level
@@ArtIsRight Thanks !
Nice Tutotrial, Art! Thank you.
I can’t never get my deltas bellow 2, always 5-9. I have a Mac book air 13. I recalibrated several times but never got to 2 :/
Have you done this yet? ua-cam.com/video/hDHBodulVbw/v-deo.html I think True Tone and auto brightness is the culprit here
Thanks for the video... One thing in my head is the QA of displayed spot colors. Is there any way to define own spectral definitions of a spot color and see how it will be displayed on screen?
You can in a way. Not with Spectral information but you can load in an image and have it create patches based on the color in an image. This might not help you exactly, but it is something that you can do. I'll look into this further.
I have a Benq ref monitor. I'm conisdering buying a 2020 Imac 27". Would it be possible to get the colors to look similar on those two monitors?
Thanks. Subscribed.
It will come close but will not be an exact match. Different panel manufacturers, etc.
Hi Art,
Great video, thank you for the effort.
I just bought a BenQ SW2700 and im in the process of calibrating it with the i1DisplayPro and doing some comparisons with my iMac Retina 5k.
On a first glance, the first calibration with the Palette Master software has given me a very yellowish-greenish tint that doesn't seem to be right. What i do like though is the fact that once the calibration is done, I cannot seem to be able to mess manually with the brightness settings of the monitor, so I know I wont be able to let my eyes be fooled when editing my work.
That said, I just ran another calibration with the XRite software which took of the yellowish tint, but it lets me play around with the brightness settings of the screen. In your video I saw that the Xrite software prompted you to adjust the brightness of the monitor -this happens when I calibrate my iMac- but it didn't happen when calibrating my BenQ.
Do you know how I should proceed in this matter? Any suggestions will be highly appreciated.
Thanks again : )
@Gabriel Eisenband, thank you for the questions. Did you happen to use this guide with you calibrate your BenQ with PME ua-cam.com/video/bz9y3db9vRI/v-deo.html ? If you didn't, could try these settings out first?
To answer your questions, yes with PME all of the brightness setting is done via the software and once you are done calibrating everything locked so that you don't inadvertently change the settings or values.
With the X-Rite software you can change the brightness at anytime. However, what you have to do for it to prompt for the brightness change is set the luminance level of the display or in this case the target brightness that you want before you calibrate and turn ambient light measurement off. From there it should prompt you to change the brightness. So if you do this, it should ask you to change the brightness of your BenQ as well.
My best recommendation is to follow my guide above, and if you get a good calibration then you are set. In my testing running i1Profiler on the BenQ SW displays, produced ok results. They are not the best because they can't access the hardware LUT of the display and write to it during calibration. Hope this helps :)
@@ArtIsRight Thank you very much for your thoughtful answer Art.
I did watch (and liked) your previous video and followed instructions, but so far the i1Profiler seems to be giving me better results. I need to continue editing a bit more, and probably run a few more calibration tests with the Palette Master.
Concerning the brightness level, I ran the i1Profiler at 100% brightness (it didn't prompt me to do any changes while calibrating), and then what I do is lower the brightness level manually to 50%, thats how I work on my iMac and seems to work best for printing (I'm on 80 candela by the way)
@Gabriel Eisenband, you're welcome. Something to keep in mind is that when you run the calibration at full brightness and dim down the display later on in editing, you are not accurately profiling your display. Because each of the known values are now being measured brighter, hence the program is going to adjust for these variation accordingly. In essence, for any single color reference value, the measurement would read a different value at different brightness and it will adjust those values to get as close as it can to reference. The thing about calibrating at full brightness is that the color adjustments are done with those values and not the values that you are editing at. This may be ok, but it can produce unforeseen color variation.
ArtIsRight got it Art! Will run again another set calibration tests based on this thank you very much.
@Gabriel Eisenband, glad to help out!
I have just recently got a Ben Q PD2700Q 100% sRGB monitor that I hope to use for photo editing (along with a second Dell 2009w monitor) . I have already set the monitor to sRGB mode through display pilot. one of the features is has is something called the “darkroom mode”
1. Can you please explain this feature?
2. Is this just a high dynamic range mode that shows more details? (I thought the contrast ratio was a fixed value)
3. Does this mean the monitor I have is classed as a HDR monitor? Or is it vesa standards alone that determines this?
4. Should I use the darkroom mode generally for photo editing or stick with sRGB?
I have also recently bought a X- rite I1 display pro and yet to do my first calibration
How does these two modes interact or affect creating a monitor profile
5. Should I do my monitor calibration in darkroom mode or sRGB mode? Will there be a difference in the profile if everything else is the same.
1. Darkroom mode just dim the display down so it is not too bright, over simplification of what photographers need, I would not worry about this mode. Just stick with sRGB.
2. There's really no HDR mode for photography and display, not just yet. Simply put, OS and software have not caught up to the technology.
3. Not necessary, without looking up the spec, if your display support HDR10 and have HDR mode then it is a HDR monitor, but what that means for these HDR display is not much. ua-cam.com/video/0lurRq1iGPA/v-deo.html
4. Stick with sRGB
Just calibrate the display in sRGB following this guide ua-cam.com/video/h_TT9O2I1b4/v-deo.html
5. sRGB and yes profile would be different.
Excellent video Art. My only suggestion would be if you are calibrating your screen for printing, use the white point CIE of D55 rather than 65. 65 is far too cool to match most of the papers used. If you are printing your own images, it might be worth developing 2 profiles; 1 for standard viewing and 1 for editing prints. I find the latter perfect for Epson papers, but a bit too warm for typical computer use.
@lv pg, thanks for the comment. The white point is a personal preference now a day, it used to be that D55 is the key but as technology improved, things have change, yes D50 would match much closers to ink jet fine art paper and less so for any silver halide print medium. This is a personal preference and the key point here is not so much the display, as I mentioned in other videos, it is only a small part of the color management equation, it is the light source that you are viewing your prints with. So if you are calibrating your screen to D50, you should use a D50 or 5000k light source to view your print. This said, if you calibrate your screen to the universal D65 and you use a D65 to view your prints under then the color would match as well. For me I have been printing for more than 20 years now and I found that matching the light source to edit the image at D65 is a much better and overall much simpler experience than switching white point on the display and changing the profile. And if you really want the best print result with display calibration, what you need to use is a color spectrophotometer to measure the white point of each paper that you are printing on and have a profile that is specific to each of those paper and white point. In addition the light source that you view the print under, the spectral information of that light source is supposed to be used to make the icc profile for the paper too. This is a really deep rabbit whole if you delve into it. For me I would apply the simplest method for my everyday use.
@@ArtIsRight I've been at it for about 15, using Epson printers and paper. I go through about 24 - 100' [24/44"] rolls a year. It took me forever to figure out why my actual prints seem to come out much warmer. Both the screen and prints looked good - but didn't match. I had attributed it to back lighting rather than light falling on prints. It's still not perfect. But, for me it is lightyears ahead of where I was. You're correct - you can take this as far as you want to go. I'm good; my clients are "critical" when it comes to color correction perfection. Relative color correction is fine. Thanks for the reply and the video.
@lv pg, I totally understand. Like I mentioned in the comment, if you want to have a precise match, what you have to do is consider the paper white point for the specific screen calibration and consider the spectral information of the light in the paper icc profile. If you do that then you can get an even much closer precise match. Do you have a i1Pro device?
anyone know the keyboard keys to adjust values on a dell xps 7590 oled laptop screen in real time as i1 is running? im currently having to go back into other software to make the adjustments outside i1 profiler then go through the measurement process again.....great video btw
I would look at the function (FN keys) on the keyboard. It is usually fn + F11 or F12, that worked on mine. ua-cam.com/video/LatbIlMzDck/v-deo.html
I have a plan for purchase i1 Display Pro... I wanted to be sure before purchase, My computer model is Mac Book Pro 16 inc retina display. Is it right choice for this model Mac. And also thank you very much for your informative video....
It is a very good choice, if you are in the US and plan to buy directly from X-Rite send me an email or add my Facebook or instagram page and message me for a 10% off code. :) Happy Calibrating!
Have you a similar video for the Spyder?
I'll consider it, thank you for the comment.
Some great information here. I have an NEC pa242 and tend to calibrate to 120cd for editing images for print and web, but what would you suggest for video editing?
80-120 works well for video too.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you. I use Spectra View II software paired with a i1 Display Pro and my colour gamut is set to full when calibrating for print, but I was advised by the person that sold me the screen to set colour gamut to sRGB and 180CD when calibrating for video editing for the web as this is generally on average what people with have setup on there screens. I would be very interested to hear your thoughts on this.
That is a strange recommendation, sRGB makes sense because it is so close to REC 709, but it would be best if you use REC 709. About 180 CD, because most people have display set to that is an interesting statement. Sadly most people don't know nor care about the luminance which they set their display too as long as it is comfortable for viewing. And with that said REC 709 nor any of these color gamut does specify the luminance value at least not explicitly. So your range between 80-120 is going to work best. If you edit your video at that range it would still look good on a brighter display. Also display brightness unlike print brightness have lots of flexibility, a print is finite.
@@ArtIsRight Thanks for taking the time to answer this I really appreciate it. I've only just found this channel and it's a real goldmine of information. Keep up the good work!
Thank you and spread the word!
One question: the new color configuration will be applied automatically or you have to come to the settings and apply the profile you just did? This part wasn’t clear for me! Thanks! Great video!
The program will apply it automatically for you. :)
Thank you for a very good and informative video! Did I understand the following correctly: when making the calibration I should try to find the luminance level closest to 100. But, when finished, should I always try to work from that same level of luminance (say, on a Mac, max luminance -6 steps) to ge accurate results. Or can I work in ANY luminance level that's comfortable for the environment I'm in at the moment once my screen is calibrated?
Thanks again! Ps. The only thing that would make this video slightly better would be chapter marks so I could skip when going over instructions for Windows etc. ;)
@theverklighetsflykt, yes you always want to work from that brightness, no more no less because color output will change with varying brightness. This is the best way to get a consistence color result. Also, youtube does not allow for chapter marks. However, if you look in the description, there are time marks that you can jump to.
@@ArtIsRight Ah- my bad! Perfect! Thanks for quick response!
@theverklighetsflykt, you're welcome. And it is not your bad at all, you just need some clarification which I am glad to help
The Quality Assurance part for validating the color calibration seems to be missing from _ccStudio 1.1.1_.
It is not build into ccStudio, entry level calibrator and software.
Very informative! But I have a question I have a Ips monitor, what option to choose on technology type?
@edge708, thank you. Usually the default selection that the program make when you first launch it is good and accurate. However, what you can also do is search your display model online and see what backlight technology is it using. If it is a newer display then it is probably using some form of LED, but I would verify with your model number to make sure.
Thanks I’ll look into it 👍
@edge708, :)
Nice video. Question: on an apple product, go to DISPLAY in Systems page, USE SLIDER to adjust brightness in very small increments to adjust display brightness. Much more sensitive to adjust BRIGHTNESS rather than using buttons... I use the buttons to get in the general area, then fine adjust with slider on DISPLAY page.
@Robert Thompson, thank you. So here's the case and the reason why I recommend using the keyboard buttons is because it is quick, easy and give you a quantitative measurement count. This is important if you are on a laptop, if you are on a desktop in a fixed environment this may not matter as much. However, since with a laptop the environment changes and there is a need to dynamically change with it, especially when work is done on the road and it is non photo related. I understand that you can use the brightness slider in the system preferences as well, however, that brightness bar is not really a quantitative measurement. I.e. there's no read out of percentages or mark or anything of that nature and even with fine-tuning, unless you have i1Profiler running to measure brightness, it would be hard to really gage those few candela changes. And the process of adjusting the slider left to right, can be tedious to some. Another note too is that, the range for image editing is anywhere between 80 -120 cd/m^2 depending on personal preference. At these extreme you'll be able to visualize the difference, however, going from 80 to 85 or 80 to 90, it is difficult to visualize the brightness differences between these small candela increment. The profile measurement, however, will matter. Because at each brightness level, the color corresponds to a different value so it is always good profile your display at the brightness value that you will use. So for on the go use, the brightness buttons can get the value with in a good candela range and that is the fastest and easiest way without too much finessing with the slider.
Understood. However I am changing slider while i1 device is on the screen and the brightness adjustment indicator of i1 is running. You bring up the Display screen menu at the same time you are in the brightness mode using i1. This is on my 27” iMac. I’ll send you a picture.
@Robert Thompson, I figured you were doing that. Awesome, I'm glad that this solution works for you!
@@ArtIsRight Also, a TIP: by presing shift+alt you can increase/decrease by 1/4 so you can adjust the brightness quite accurate. On a Mac (and the volume!!!).
@Nan Ram, while I appreciate the feed back. I was not able to get this to work on my MBP 15" and 16" touch bar models. I'm glad that you got it to work. Depending on the computer and OS version that you are running this may be something that works for your specific combination but may not for other machine and os combo.
Nice video. Question: After calibration and colour checking on my MacBook Pro 15, some thin pink lines appeared on the edges of the finder tab and some apps
@женя атеев, in this case I would recalibrate. There's something wrong with the profile.
I recalibrated it again, now everything is good. Thanks for really informing video
@женя атеев, you're welcome!
Pro tip: If you want to set the brightness on a Mac (with or without a touch bar) more precisely, you can hold down Shift + Opt while pressing the brightness keys to adjust the brightness in 1/4 increments (FWIW this trick works with the volume keys, too). The downside, though, is that you might have to remember a more precise brightness setting like 5.25 from max brightness.
I am aware of this and this does not work on Touch Bar Mac. It will work on standard function keys Mac keyboard.
@@ArtIsRight It works on my MacBook Pro with a touch bar. You have to tap the caret to show the function keys, and then you can hold Shift + Opt when you tap the brightness keys shown at 19:00. It doesn't work when the brightness slider is open, though.
Yes it does work, good to know. I'm glad this method still works on the newer Touch Bar.
Art, quick question, I use Capture One as my primary editor, will the profile created by the i1 Display Pro be the display profile or do i need to manually choose it?
@Mario Alejandro Riojas, my understanding is that CaptureOne will choose the display profile that you are using upon launch automatically.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you Art!!!
@Mario Alejandro Riojas, you're welcome!
After you're done calibrating. Under where it says Target/Achieved. What is a good Black Luminance value?
It would all depends, for OLED 0 nits for IPS LED backlight you are going to look at something under 1 nits, so it would be 0.xxx
Hello! Amazing video. Just got my iDis Pro Plus today!
If you could help me understand a little detail a bit better. Im trying to calibrate my laptop (Asus ROG Zephyrus Duo 15 GX550 Specifications) and it seems to have an IPS display but under the profiling section the default display is White LED. My understanding of display types is poor, but this seems to be an LCD display Im working with. Is this an issue at all? Is the White LED what I should be selecting? Thank you very much for the video! Looking forward to your reply!
Thank you. So IPS is the panel layering technology. LCD pixel is what creates the color on your display and the selection that you see is for back light technology. I would start with what the program recommend and see how the result is. If it is not good then recalibrate it with another selection.
ArtIsRight Thank you very much for your reply! How do I know if the calibration is actually good?
The validation at the end will be a good indicator. Also the general OS interface would tell you a lot as well. If your gray menu bar looks pink or magenta, even if it passes the validate then you know the calibration is bad.
ArtIsRight Thank you!
You're welcome
Hi Art what if your E value is 8.1 average, did i miss something. screen is slightly pink
If you have a Delta eat at high end with highly recommend recalibrating, depending on the screen that you have not on screen can be calibrated successfully. What computer screen are you calibrating? Is it a laptop desktop what model?
Hi, great video. I do have couple of question. I bought it recently and i make it few profile for Photo and Video (Rec709). The photo profile(luminance 120) setting mostly is default but after calibration, the color seems a slightly yellowish compare to video profile(luminance 80,default) the color more yellowish compare to original color profile gamma 2.2 (macbook pro late 2014). This is something unpleasant and not sure which deliver accuracy of colors. Also i did use a third party software like DisplayCal and the outcome looks good but slightly have shift color to magenta(blueish/reddish). Well then, i'm back to i1profile and redo the the color calibration luminance manually, few profiles the outcome is quite dark. The question is, how to verify the color between photo and video both accuracy? and secondly, after calibrating do you leave your BRIGHTNESS level exactly the same LUMINANCE value when calibrating setting that time, just like how you calibrate? I usually leave my brightness to 50% on my post production no matter is photo or video. Please enlighten me because i feel confusing after calibrating. Thank you so much for your time and appreciate your kindness.
Hi @Darren C, thank you for the compliment and the questions. Here are the answers to your questions. So first off the color space for Photo is closely akin to Adobe RGB color space or based closely on the extrapolation of it. Video colorspace Rec 709 is much smaller think sRGB for video. The other thing to note is that photography sRGB color space, if you look at the wedge, it tends to cover more red and yellow. So based on what you are telling me, it is possible that your calibration is within tolerance and range. However, just to be sure, I’ll run a test on my system when I have time and get back to you.
Now this said one of the best way to verify the profile is to do the profile validation with i1Profiler this will tell you the delta e value and which colors are off most which will tell you if your profile is defective or not. You can certainly use DisplayCal to calibrate and possibly test the profile too. My personal opinion as of now is to stick with i1Profiler. When you do said you do the calibration “manually” does that means you enter in the parameter for each selection manually instead of the using the presets? If you have done this it is perfectly fine. The profile dark out come is mostly based on the luminance value that you have set. Now when you calibrate, do you use ADC (Automatic Display Control) and have you turned off some of the settings on your Mac or PC before you did the calibration? Here are links to 2 video that may help for Mac ua-cam.com/video/kbQIrh00A80/v-deo.html for windows ua-cam.com/video/4QwuyzyVhCA/v-deo.html
After calibration, what you have to do is set the display brightness level the same as when you calibrated it. This means that when you select the Rec 709 profile you would set the screen to 80 nits and in photo you would set the screen to 120 nits. The other thing to note is that if you set your display to 50% brightness it is arbitrary and I would not recommend this. What I would recommend is follow my instructions in the video on how to set your screen brightness from full brightness and count how many times you have to bring it down until you reach 120 nits and 80 nits respectively. The reasons for this is at every luminance level the any given color would look different so if the profile is generated at 80 nits then when you are editing you should also set your display at 80 nits so that the profile would matches as precise as possible to the icc profile.
I hope that this helps, please feel free to follow up with more questions. Now this said, if you do both photo and video you might want to consider just calibrating your screen to photography at 100 nits. This would be a good compromise brightness wise. By the way 10-20 nits increase is hard to discern with the human vision without a side by side comparison, so you’ll won’t notice the brightness change much. Another thing to note that most screen when dimmed down to below 100 nits become less accurate, only really good display can hold accurate color well below 100 nits.
ArtIsRight you save my day, as last night after watching your tutorial video, my confidence to calibrate is 100%. And thank you for your settings and answer. I should recalibrate again if I need to. Hardly to wait for your next experiment and tests. Appreciate...
@Darren C, you're welcome!
I would like to ask if it is possible for i1 profiler to show srgb % percentage of monitor after calibration ? ( cant find any menu) or I've to used displayCal to check % srgb instead ?
My i1 Pro Plus just arrived today
Thank
@Sanyawit Siriluk, i1Profiler does not have this option. Other programs may have but they are generally not accurate which I think is the reason why X-Rite does not include it in their programming.
This may be a silly question... but after calibrating the iMac and my benq monitor, do I need tho select this ICC profile on the display menu?
You can double check, but i1Profiler will automatically set up the profile for you.
Hi Art, there is a another way to set the brightness on macOS of your Apple device: using the terminal. When you are setting the brightness in the 1profiler software just open the terminal and set one value, increase or decrease it. Is the best way instead of use the buttons. Instructions here: github.com/nriley/brightness (great channel btw)
Thank you, and great to know that there is another way. I appreciate you sharing and though I would be the person who will be tempted to use this, most of my followers on this channel are just getting started with color management and that is a lot of information. But again thanks for sharing.
Great video! But I have an issue here: I have calibrated both my MacBook (13-inch early 2011) and my iMac (21.5-inch late 2013). Unfortunately the results are different. My Macbook display came out more reddish, my iMac more yellowish. Why is this? Did I do something wrong? And how do I know now which display is correct? And most important, how can I get the colors of both display the same? This is important because I want to be able to edit my pictures on both displays.
@MillitzFilm, thanks for the comment. In this case, you are between a rock and a hard place. Calibration does not make displays all uniform and conforms to one another. What it does is correct each individual display output to get it as close to reference value, in this case CIE LAB as much as possible, barring any external variable that will change the way the colors are being shown visually along with the age of the display. A few things to note here is that both of your devices does have some age on them, so the backlight in this case could start to shift color, if it has not already and any calibration with a custom output profile would exacerbate this. The other issue here is that the display inside the iMac and on your MacBook are using different panel technology and backlight methodology. Matching these would be extremely difficult to start with, and if you are able to do it then you are adjusting one display output based on another, so in a sense one would not be as correct as the other, if this can be done at all. You didn't do anything wrong with the calibration. What you need to do in this case is test these displays and see which one produced a more consistence output result, especially if you are printing. If you are not then I would use another device outside of the one that you own to proof the color. Based on what you told me, in this case I am more inclined to trust the color on your iMac, however, if that iMac display have back lighting issues then this would change my recommendation here drastically. Display build before 2015 especially ones that uses CCFL backlit usually have a good life span of about 3-5 years and then it start to shift color. Newer LED backlight build 2015 or after tend to do a better job in the long run. Laptop display is an entirely different story.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you so much for the great clarifying answer! I will do some tests!
@MillitzFilm, you're welcome.
Dumb question. If I calibrate my Benq 271 with Palette Master, then calibrate my 2019 MacBook Pro with i1 Profiler, will there be any conflict? I read somewhere it's not recommended to use both apps on same device. Thanks for your very informative videos.
@Gordon Clark Photography, there won't be any, I do that all of the time. The information that you have about conflict may be a specific case or just simply a case of wrong information. If you need any further help please let me know.
ArtIsRight Great thanks!
You’re welcome!
Hi, good video, do you have another explain how calibrate using constant ambient light using the x-rite thanks
Hi @Luis, thank you. In my many experience and testing, calibrating your display based on the ambient light can be lead to many issues. One of them being that your environment will constantly change and can change drastically. When this happen your display can go much darker or brighter to compensate. The issues with this is many of the analog output medium such as prints don't compensate to the lighting changes. So what can happen in this case is that everything would look great on you screen but print out too light or dark depending on the ambient adjustment. Furthermore, this can effect viewing on other screens too if your constantly adjusted calibration deviate too much outside of reference range. This is a feature that is mostly designed by engineers who does not really do photography or prints. This said, there are always exemption and justification to use the feature based on workflow needs. Would you mind sharing with me your workflow and how it relates to he use of this feature? This way if I do a video about this I can use your scenario as ax exsample.
In order to download the software (Dec 2021) the above link to x-rite results in an error. Seems, the x1 Display Pro device is no longer available. Since I recently got an i1 Display Pro (about 10 years old), I hope that the current iProfiler software (for Mac, April 2021) is suitable for this device. If it is, your explanation of the whole process is just perfect usable for me. Thanks a lot!
Download the software from www.Calibrite.com there's has been a name and company change but support is on going. Find out more here ua-cam.com/video/w_uRI5qkBlA/v-deo.html
@@ArtIsRight Thank you very much indeed. Your channel is so helpful.
👍🏼
@@ArtIsRight cc Profilier software is showing a warning like . "Profile is not licensed. Use the right dongle." I wasn't aware that an extra license for the software is needed when you already purchased the i1device.
If you have i1Display Pro you are fine, those license things refer to the i1Pro series drives. I would just download ccProfiler from calibrite and use that.
Can I still use the i1 display pro with my BenQ PD2700U monitor? If so, which software would I use??? Thank you in advance
@Monica Hernandez, you would use i1Profiler, a video about that will becoming really soon.
ArtIsRight I will wait for your video before I calibrate it. I found this video very helpful for calibrating my MacBook Pro. Thank you!
@Monica Hernandez, sounds good.
Hi there, I do have a question now. I've been calibrating with a colormunki photo (with i1 display software) for a number of years now and been able to direct print effectively at the labs I use. The question I have is to do with candela. The brightest I've used is 100, but In more recent times I've been using 60 as that's the brightness I prefer. Now I've not printed for a while now, but I presume I'll be fine. So is 60 or 80 ok? And could I ask why in your opinion there's use for what's actually very bright candela settings?
I would keep the brightness at 80 and no lower. Going too low pushes and compressed the tones and color down so much that the display or any display for matter was not designed for that. For the very bright setting, I would say if someone is grading in HDR, they might like to use that or for cinema grading work. Otherwise, it is just specs that gets thrown around. For laptop it comes in handy when you are in a bright environment and want to use the machine but for color critical work, that is a no. Hope this helps :)
@@ArtIsRight Cool. Thanks. I re-calibrated. There doesn't appear to be a dramatic difference between 80 and 60, I'll keep it on 80. Thanks for the input. cheers
Sure, our eyes can't really tell the differences but at 60 the tonal compression is the issue.
how about matching you tablet (eg wacom cintiq) to your computer screen? should I calibrate it separately or apply the profile from my computer screen?
@gokinka, this gets tricky. What you want to do in this case is calibrate your computer screen and Wacom screen independently. Do as much work as you can on the Wacom and then double check it on the other screen that you have. Applying the profile created for 1 device to another output device (mismatching profile) would not work in this case. One more thing to note too is that these screen could have different display technology, back light, batch manufacturing, panel manufacture, etc. Matching them exactly is impossible and in practicality should not be done because any attempt to match them will involve manipulating the device output via icc profile that goes beyond correcting the color to reference value.
@@ArtIsRight amazing! I'll do them separately then. Thanks for your help, you're a lifesaver 🙏
@gokinka, any time :)
My Report screen does not look the same as yours, but my report said "Pass" and my average Delta E was .7 for all patches, but my Average Delta E threshold was 15 and Max Delta E threshold was 50 (top of the screen). You didn't talk about those numbers, but is that a problem? I have an XPS 15 4K screen (not OLED version). I used everything you stated in your tutorial but went with Version 2 per it display pro tech services. Is this ok result for printing accurately colored photos?
@clynch222, your screen may look different than mine and that is ok. X-Rite had a few software updates that changes part of the user interface. As far as threshold, that does not really change the profile or do anything, it just the trigger for ∆e to report pass or fail. ∆e of 0.7 is great. Color wise your laptop display is probably DCI-P3 or Display P3 calibrated from the factory, so you should be ok editing colors. Although some color might now show because both Display P3 and DCI-P3, though are larger color space, they don't over lap Adobe RGB entirely. But you should be good.
@@ArtIsRight Thank you kindly for taking the time to respond, I sincerely appreciate it!
@clynch222, you're welcome
If I don't work in print but mostly digital media can I set a higher brightness for calibration and what implications would that have?
I still recommend sticking to 80 - 120 nits even when mostly working with digital media. If you print at anytime at all, this would save you a lot of reedit, print matching time and mistakes that can come from it. As far as variation between other screens type, phone, tablet, etc it won't be that different at all which is why everyone should stick with the standard above.
@@ArtIsRight thanks for the advice. I really love your channel
Thank you and anytime!
Hi great video! Question. I just bought 1 gaming laptop hp pavilion 15 dk0005ne. I want to use it for editing video and photos. By this device xrite 1 can it works to correct the color accuracy of the monitor ? Pls help me. Or else i will just sell it again and buy another laptop😢 thank u sir and More power . God bless u🙏
@Kimpee Vidallon, you can just this device to calibrate your display. It is an IPS display so you good there. The only thing would be how wide is the color gamut for this display. Because this is a gaming laptop, the color gamut is listed at 45% NTSC which is about 60% sRGB. And that is not good. If you can I would look for a laptop with a screen that can show at last 100% sRGB or about 72% NTSC for comparison. If you can get something that can show 90+% of Display P3 or DCI-P3 that would be even better. But either way, if you get this device it will calibrate any of your screen without any issues.
Thank u sir👍But you think this device can help my problem? Or much better to buy a new laptop?
@Kimpee Vidallon, yes the device will help you get more accurate color. I say that it is worth getting a device rather than not.
Thank u sir! I will definitly get one. And how about blacks and white levels? Is it goint to be accurate also using the device? Thank u again😊
@Kimpee Vidallon, the device will help as much as it can. For instance if your backlight is CCFL and it is starting to shift color then there's very little that the colorimeter can do to compensate. Otherwise, you should be fine. And I don't think that your laptop falls into that category either.
I have followed the setup but when I set the Luminance to 110 Candelas, the screen is too dark.
I did a manual check of the brightness of the screen and it was 374 Nits at 100% brightness. Should I be setting the Luminance to 374?
You can but you are missing the point, 374 by print standard is about 3 times too bright. If you do digital only sure, otherwise, not so much
This will be for print. The issue is if I set for 90-110, the screen is virtually black. My laptop has a 4K AMOLDED screen (if that makes any difference). @@ArtIsRight
It should not but it is also a laptop screen. So what I would do is test and do print comparisions.
I commented on your recent video posted by Xrite only to realise that its not your channel to receive a reply..Anyway , my question is as below
I use surface pro 7 and did attempt to calibrate using xrite i1 display with latest software update.
What I got was
Target - white point - D65K
Achieved - n/a
Target X : 0.313 y-0.329
Achieved - X - n/a Y - n/a
Target - black luminance - native
Achieved - 0.0036cd/M2
Target luminance - 80cd/ M2
Achieved- n/a
Target contrast ratio- native
Achieved -n/a
However, the report for 24patch results came PASS .
Did I get it right ? Appreciate your reply
What was your delta e result? I find that many time i1Profiler will not report the archived result. Nothing is wrong per say, it just does not give you the feed back on those matrix. But what is important is the delta e value. The pass is good but that is relative to what you set the delta e threshold to. This video will help ua-cam.com/video/NNi4xV24dKY/v-deo.html along with this one ua-cam.com/video/YzkOjL9JUJU/v-deo.html But let me know your overall and max delta e and we'll go from there.
@@ArtIsRight Thankyou for the message.I got results as
measured below
All patches average: 0.8 Tolerance -15.0
All patches - max - Measured - 4.4 and tolerance - 50.0
Delta E type - delta 2000 (1:1:1)
Average delta E threshold - 50
Maximum delta E threshold - 50
Result Pass
@@ArtIsRight I can email a screenshot to make it easy if that helps
Sure thing you can email me the screen shot. So from what you shared the result is fine. The Max ∆e is a bit high but if you are non a laptop screen this is fairly normal.
Maybe I missed it, but why does the luminance value have to be 100? What if the conditions are such that I want to consistently have a brighter screen? I was always under the impression that brighter is better because this makes for a larger color resolution. What happens if I calibrate on 100 and then increase the brightness because that's what the situation dictates?
Because if you print, your print will come out much darker than what you see on the screen. The understanding that you have about the brighter is better is based on in correct information, brighter screen does not produced a larger color gamut, the color gamut itself is determined by the panel quality and capability. What I shared in this video is to calibrate at 100 and you can change the brightness according the environment but when you want to do color critical work go back to 100 cd/m^2
@@ArtIsRight Yes, the gamut is a function of the screen, but I mean in terms of seeing the gamut. Doesn't the screen have to be brighter in order for a human to be able to resolve the different colors?
It seems like your focus is on "print" work. If a person is calibrating for movie watching, or playing video games shouldn't they calibrate at the brightness they will be using it at?
Also @ 3:50 you mention that one of the advantages of the Plus model is that it can calibrate displays up to 2000 nits. I don't understand why that's an advantage if all calibrations will be done at 100 nits.
The focus is on print work and this happens to cover other type of viewing experiences as well. If you look at a REC 709 or sRGB standard spec, none of them include the luminance value in the spec, so the question then would be where would you set the brightness? As far as the screen being brighter to resolve color, again the question is what is the optimal luminance? There's is no definitive fix standard. And for more than 20 + years doing this, calibrating at 80-120 cd/m^2 has work very well for me, for printing, web editing, design, gaming, movie consumption, etc. One could say that it can be brighter, yes, but to what value?
And yes the advantage of the plus model is that the sensor is more sensitive and it can measure brighter screen. But this increase in sensitivity also benefit calibration on displays set to 100 nits as well especially in darker color and tones where it can do a better job measuring the value compared to the previous models. As far as visual differences go, one might not see any difference at all but that is because we are human and there's a finite limit to our vision. :)
so, using the same procedure for iMac pro 2019?
Yes you would use the same procedure as laid out in this video.
@@ArtIsRight I really appreciate your answer! Subscribed
Anytime! And Thank you!
I am getting this message saying: measurement completed with errors. Verify all parameters and re-measure if necessary. I don’t know what this means? Could anyone help?
@MCharlot B. I'm not sure what is going in this case. I'm sure that you have done all of the necessary steps to trouble shoot the issue already, restart the computer, plug in the colorimeter to a different USB port, uninstall - reinstall. I like to help but I need more information from you. What computer are you using, what screen are you calibrating, OS version, what X-rite device do you have, what version of i1Profiler are you using, what steps have you taken so far to resolve this error. Without this it would be difficulty for me know isolate and trouble shoot your issue. Also have you tried to contact your local X-Rite support?
How do you calibrate on Mac OS Mojave 10.14.5? i1 Profiler is not giving me a button to start calibrating. Any help would be greatly appreciated!
Hi @Keith, if you are watching my video and using the advanced mode. One of the reason why there's no start measurement button that I can think of is that your computer does not recognized the calibrator and puts the program into demo mode. On the home page of i1Profiler, do you see the check marks going green before you start the calibration settings screen?
@@ArtIsRight Thanks so much for the reply, yes I made the sure the registration was unlocked and I do have green checks by icons. I'm able to navigate thru the menus, selects settings, once I get to the final option I have no button to start calibration.
Furthermore this is v3.1.0 | XRD Version 3.0.90
Trying to calibrate a 2019 Macbook Pro 13 | Mojave 10.14.5
Never had a problem calibrating any of my other Macs
Have you tried to uninstall and reinstall the program. For Mac I recommend app cleaner, it is a free download, drop i1Profiler in there and then click on delete. From there I would restart the machine. Then download the latest i1Profiler from X-Rite install it and see if you can calibrate it. Another thing to note is to make sure that no there color calibration software is starting up with the computer. And lastly if this continue not to work then I would recommend another test to see if it is your OS causing the issue. And that is to install macOS on a flash drive, boot it from there, install i1Profiler and see if the program will calibrate this time. Because the OS on the flash drive is a fresh OS, this is a good test bed to see if your current install of macOS is causing the issue. Let me know how this goes.
Greatly appreciate the help, I was able to contact X-Rite and resolve the problem. Excellent video by the way, extremely helpful.
Cannot get the software to come out of automatic with a del up3216q monitor
@Peter Appleyard, could you elaborate more? Are you talking about ADC, what you can do is uncheck that and check the box below for manual adjustment. Are you saying that box that I just mentioned is grayed out?
ArtIsRight hi thank you for replying I cannot uncheck the ADC box or tick the box below when in the software
@Peter Appleyard, that is strange. Have you tried to installed and reinstall the program? Also, have you try and reach out to X-Rite support for this. I am not sure what is going on here.
Hey so I did this and my laptop had became more of a yellow Greenish tint ...
Would you be able to help me ?
@Junior Lopez, what laptop do you have? What laptop and OS version are you running? Do you have the i1Display Pro or Pro Plus? When you say yellow greenish, is this like a color cast where it is blatantly yellow green or is this more of a slight color shift? Did you run the display validate to validate profile at the end? What was the ∆e value? Was the calibrator flat on the screen (screen tilt back) when you calibrate the display? Let me know and we'll go from here.
@@ArtIsRight 1. Dell inspiron 5558
2. I don't know what you mean by os version
3. Display pro
4. Idk it's just had a yellow greenish tint on screen
5. Yes, it said pass
6. I'm not sure how to check but I'm certain it was a 1. Something
7.yes
@Junior Lopez, please take a picture of your screen before and after calibration for me if possible and email it to my email address on the about section of my channel. We'll go from there.
@Junior Lopez, how many calibration have you done by the way and is the result always the same?
Spends €512 on the Calibrite Studio photospectrometer and while researching how to use it, hears @3:16 "When it comes to screen calibration though, from my experience and from extensive testing, I like the (€400 cheaper) colorimeter much more." :facepalm:
There are distinctions between the 2, the one that you got is a spectrophotometer, yes. However, it is an entry level one and it is not as good as the pro colorimeter devices. More so the variation between spectrophotometer and colorimeter when it comes to final result are so close that it does not matter much.
*my macbook screen does not work correctly
ok.
Too much talking, make it to the point. (Better for your channel)
Noted