You can never get a truthful answer as to impacts, freeze conditions, or modifications to systems. Always make systems at a higher level than originally and you should be fine.. OMG glad you said something about Charger confusion and extinguisher culpability.
After i got my meter and checked both were negatives as they usually are but by them being blue I though maybe this one was different, nope one side charge side and other side disharge I make mistakes on live videos say wrong thing Im human but yeah that first side was dicharge side the other charge side usually all negative wires are black thought charge side may been on the flip side but no just do the discharge side only in this case
Hey man I'm wondering if you know of a US supplier that I can get a new controller and possibly display that will connect to the zugo? I don't thunk I want to use alibaba and wait forever. So I wanted to know if you know a good website to get like a 30amp upgraded zugo like controller. My wires melted and bike doesn't turn on anymore. Battery was good and I cut back the damaged wires and reconnected with no power. So I probably need a new controller and possibly display....thanks for any advice you can give
@Timothy Bongiovanni sorry just seeing this I have a controller posted on in the comunity section. It's what I used on my Zugo and Super 73 great controller 45amp and will do 72v looks like mini Sabvaton you'll see it go back like 10-15 post maybe more
Good video, with running over 200amps it may be better to forgo using a bms and get a JUNCTEK KG140F 120v 600amp smart shunt. It has all the features of a bms minus the balancing but that can be bought separately. The smart shunt is smaller, cleaner, more precise, cheaper and more reliable than a bms. My battery does 400amp continuous and 800 burst, haven't seen any bms that can handle these cells lol.
Do whats best for you this was just hypothetical and trying to help people understand why peoples bikes are burning up. For someone running a large controller on a bypassed battery, aint no BMS or a shunt gonna help them, They need a real battery that can supply the power they need I dont have any issues what Im running Not thinking about none of those options Im the BMS I dont have anything I wanna shunt or run BMS on and these people need pwerful batteries their trying to get blood from a turn up. This battery was on a lil razor bike. ILL never be using any of those things myself, I heard that on your battery I stand by what I say Im the Battery Monitoring system I regulate what does what
@@9MileRoar i hope you didnt take that thewrong way bro, i understand you are giving a successful alternative for running a BMS but may i confused the point i was making but that was nothing a bms or a smart shunt will fix. they are both meant to keep bad things from happening, disable or regulate current. Those guy need more power which is why they are bypassing but if the battery cant supply more power either way not gonna solve the issue. Now if I were trying to determine the best means of protecting your battery or safety and whats a better system surely sounds like that smart shunt is a much better option. in my case that may serve me well as I have a battery that can actually provide 600 amps so may ill take a look at that smart shunt lol post a link
Hey bro, have you tried the Yuanqu controller? It may not push off that fast but it accelerates to an high speed after pushing off and it saves a lot of battery energy as well! Also if you do have the additional funds, you can try building with Sony VTC batteries, these batteries are built for speed!
No I haven't ill try anything that's proven can beat what I'm doing now. When someone post a video of a bike performing better than what I'm using absolutely I'm willing try it. Now I just posted I was gonna build a bike that was capable of a high top speed and I know how to do that my way with a high voltage battery system and a low turn motor. The bike I have now is the opposite it's built to race with low voltagea nd high ŵ and a ton of amps. It can accelerate faster than my fastest car which is a Supercharged Mercedes V8, so right now I'm not feeling I need to ?change a thing but I'm open to anything that can show me better than what I'm doing now. Thanks for the suggestion
What size iron are you using and I don't just mean in wattage you have to have iron that is physically thick and has heavy tip that holds heat otherwise a light weight tip the heat will be drawn out immediately if your attempting to solder something with large surface area and if heat is not an issue you need flux paste which will help solder flow
You can never get a truthful answer as to impacts, freeze conditions, or modifications to systems. Always make systems at a higher level than originally and you should be fine.. OMG glad you said something about Charger confusion and extinguisher culpability.
After i got my meter and checked both were negatives as they usually are but by them being blue I though maybe this one was different, nope one side charge side and other side disharge I make mistakes on live videos say wrong thing Im human but yeah that first side was dicharge side the other charge side usually all negative wires are black thought charge side may been on the flip side but no just do the discharge side only in this case
Hey man I'm wondering if you know of a US supplier that I can get a new controller and possibly display that will connect to the zugo? I don't thunk I want to use alibaba and wait forever. So I wanted to know if you know a good website to get like a 30amp upgraded zugo like controller. My wires melted and bike doesn't turn on anymore. Battery was good and I cut back the damaged wires and reconnected with no power. So I probably need a new controller and possibly display....thanks for any advice you can give
@Timothy Bongiovanni sorry just seeing this I have a controller posted on in the comunity section. It's what I used on my Zugo and Super 73 great controller 45amp and will do 72v looks like mini Sabvaton you'll see it go back like 10-15 post maybe more
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 all good.. ended up swapping the zugo controller for a super 73 rx controller, display, and battery.
Good video, with running over 200amps it may be better to forgo using a bms and get a JUNCTEK KG140F 120v 600amp smart shunt. It has all the features of a bms minus the balancing but that can be bought separately. The smart shunt is smaller, cleaner, more precise, cheaper and more reliable than a bms. My battery does 400amp continuous and 800 burst, haven't seen any bms that can handle these cells lol.
They have a video on it and they update them frequently, can also be bought from our favorite eastern shop ua-cam.com/video/pNGoQ8_moNw/v-deo.html
Do whats best for you this was just hypothetical and trying to help people understand why peoples bikes are burning up. For someone running a large controller on a bypassed battery, aint no BMS or a shunt gonna help them, They need a real battery that can supply the power they need I dont have any issues what Im running Not thinking about none of those options Im the BMS I dont have anything I wanna shunt or run BMS on and these people need pwerful batteries their trying to get blood from a turn up. This battery was on a lil razor bike. ILL never be using any of those things myself, I heard that on your battery I stand by what I say Im the Battery Monitoring system I regulate what does what
@@ChrisCrossingWires1212 I hear you, fair enough
@@9MileRoar i hope you didnt take that thewrong way bro, i understand you are giving a successful alternative for running a BMS but may i confused the point i was making but that was nothing a bms or a smart shunt will fix. they are both meant to keep bad things from happening, disable or regulate current. Those guy need more power which is why they are bypassing but if the battery cant supply more power either way not gonna solve the issue. Now if I were trying to determine the best means of protecting your battery or safety and whats a better system surely sounds like that smart shunt is a much better option. in my case that may serve me well as I have a battery that can actually provide 600 amps so may ill take a look at that smart shunt lol post a link
You know I read this again this was some good info I kinda read it the wrong way but yeah post a link or something let me see what you talking about
Great info 😎
Hey bro, have you tried the Yuanqu controller? It may not push off that fast but it accelerates to an high speed after pushing off and it saves a lot of battery energy as well! Also if you do have the additional funds, you can try building with Sony VTC batteries, these batteries are built for speed!
No I haven't ill try anything that's proven can beat what I'm doing now. When someone post a video of a bike performing better than what I'm using absolutely I'm willing try it. Now I just posted I was gonna build a bike that was capable of a high top speed and I know how to do that my way with a high voltage battery system and a low turn motor. The bike I have now is the opposite it's built to race with low voltagea nd high ŵ and a ton of amps. It can accelerate faster than my fastest car which is a Supercharged Mercedes V8, so right now I'm not feeling I need to ?change a thing but I'm open to anything that can show me better than what I'm doing now. Thanks for the suggestion
For the BMS, any special solder you use. Stuff I'm using doesn't want to stick to the BMS. Trying to keep the charge side of BMS connected. Thx
What size iron are you using and I don't just mean in wattage you have to have iron that is physically thick and has heavy tip that holds heat otherwise a light weight tip the heat will be drawn out immediately if your attempting to solder something with large surface area and if heat is not an issue you need flux paste which will help solder flow
is there an app on your phone you can download, when you snap a picture it will translate that chinese language to english?
Yes it is called google translate on the phone app store.