I've had this motor with a 2 blade prop mounted on a 12' jon for around seven years. Never had any issues with the bolt being short or cavitation. Maybe your issues are caused because of transom height and the 3 blade prop?
This mud motor has a flexible steel shaft. Imagine a strained conductor times a million. I have talked to someone who hit a rock and broke the shaft. They are not cheap. However, I am 3 years deep on an incredibly cheap setup without a scratch.
I’ve got the twisted XL with 13hp predator. It’s mounted on a 14ft Jon boat Getting about 8mph without cavitation plate. Would you recommend a 2 blade prop along with the cavitation plate?
I have not tried the 2 blade prop yet. I have seen Gunner's Hide vid on the Twister who uses a 2 blade and his hits 23 mph, albeit I think he has a stage 1 kit. I bypassed the governor a couple of days ago to see if there was a difference. There was not. In looking at the stage 1 kit dyno chart comparison I see why. It is putting out all it can at a lower RPM. Stage 1 kit performance is much better, with higher HP, at a higher RPM. You may need a two blade with that kit to get that higher RPM. Sounds crazy but I then adjusted the cav plate slightly back and picked up 1 mph. I'll take it.
I'm ordering the twister XL to go on my 13 horsepower Honda this week to push a 15 ft. All the research that I found says to skip getting the cavitation plate and go right for the adapter with the two blade prop. Apparently there's much less vibration and higher speeds. I think the big deal to me, as I also run in super shallow rocky rivers, is that the aluminum two blade props will break before doing any damage to the actual twister kit. The three blade that comes with it is stainless and very strong so if you hit it really good against The Rock then you may damage the flexible shaft. Although, I don't know because I'm just going off what people say. I know it's been about 9 months since you posted this, have you gone with the adapter and two blade prop?
It is a 12mm with 1.75 thread, 90 mm long. I have to admit I'm a little frustrated that I can't find one fully threaded. This is a Tillman from HD or Lowes and is only half threaded meaning I have to remove it from transport. I have searched for a full thread with no luck.
Sorry for the delay. The skeg is about 6" below the surface so that's about the limit without the prop popping up and losing drive. My boat hits rocks before the motor does. Nearly 3 years later and still have not damaged a prop on a rock. Crazy.
Excellent video. Thanks.
I just got my twister kit for my gheenoe can't wait to get it on the water
Onde compro uma dessa pela Internet ?
I don't understand if the fan shaft is a shaft line or a cylinder line
I've had this motor with a 2 blade prop mounted on a 12' jon for around seven years. Never had any issues with the bolt being short or cavitation. Maybe your issues are caused because of transom height and the 3 blade prop?
May I know how it is connected to the shaft type engine?
This mud motor has a flexible steel shaft. Imagine a strained conductor times a million. I have talked to someone who hit a rock and broke the shaft. They are not cheap. However, I am 3 years deep on an incredibly cheap setup without a scratch.
And that's stock. No mods. Some guys are getting 20hp with performance mods. Kinda scarry.
I’ve got the twisted XL with 13hp predator. It’s mounted on a 14ft Jon boat Getting about 8mph without cavitation plate. Would you recommend a 2 blade prop along with the cavitation plate?
I have not tried the 2 blade prop yet. I have seen Gunner's Hide vid on the Twister who uses a 2 blade and his hits 23 mph, albeit I think he has a stage 1 kit. I bypassed the governor a couple of days ago to see if there was a difference. There was not. In looking at the stage 1 kit dyno chart comparison I see why. It is putting out all it can at a lower RPM. Stage 1 kit performance is much better, with higher HP, at a higher RPM. You may need a two blade with that kit to get that higher RPM. Sounds crazy but I then adjusted the cav plate slightly back and picked up 1 mph. I'll take it.
I'm ordering the twister XL to go on my 13 horsepower Honda this week to push a 15 ft. All the research that I found says to skip getting the cavitation plate and go right for the adapter with the two blade prop. Apparently there's much less vibration and higher speeds. I think the big deal to me, as I also run in super shallow rocky rivers, is that the aluminum two blade props will break before doing any damage to the actual twister kit. The three blade that comes with it is stainless and very strong so if you hit it really good against The Rock then you may damage the flexible shaft. Although, I don't know because I'm just going off what people say. I know it's been about 9 months since you posted this, have you gone with the adapter and two blade prop?
What was the bolt size for the trim bolt?
It is a 12mm with 1.75 thread, 90 mm long. I have to admit I'm a little frustrated that I can't find one fully threaded. This is a Tillman from HD or Lowes and is only half threaded meaning I have to remove it from transport. I have searched for a full thread with no luck.
@@rhallman1000 buy some all thread and use a bolt on each side.
How shallow of water do you think you can run in??
Sorry for the delay. The skeg is about 6" below the surface so that's about the limit without the prop popping up and losing drive. My boat hits rocks before the motor does. Nearly 3 years later and still have not damaged a prop on a rock. Crazy.
@rhallman1000 thanks, I think im gonna get one for my 17' Quapaw
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