Don't want to nit pick too much Chris but one of the things that was taught in heavy duty mechanic school when dealing with hydraulics is to keep things as clean as possible like cleaning all that dirt off the track frame before removing the travel motor. That way it prevents any dirt from getting into the hoses or the travel motor when either removing it or reinstalling it. All the best on fixing up your excavator those Case/Link Belt/ Sumitomo machines are very nice machines to operate.
Another great video. I generally enjoy watching your skills operating the Volvo(s), but am especially interested in working on machinery that needs a little TLC. Watching you/Copperhead on the 215/235 is about my speed; I have a 225, & a Case W24B articulating wheel loader. If the drive motor is otherwise good, but the splines are stripped on the shaft, I may be able to help. Making the shaft would be a lot cheaper than going through the dealer.
i dont know to much about offroad machinery, but when i visited a college for diesel, the professor talked about some guy bringing a drive motor like that to the college in the back of his subaru outback, lol
At least the securing bolts came out a whole lot easier than the outer ring! It will be interesting to hear how you get on with the independent repair shop rather than the dealer however I still think you will have a substantial bill to pay! Would copperhead marine have any suggestions as to how you might get a cheaper repair?
Chris. just take some zip lock bags and some electrical tape as plugs. Put the bag over and then electrical tape the bag to the line. It is not perfect as I'd like to use caps but in a pinch this will work
Little Christmas present for the excavator on the way thru paypal, Be safe and keep up the great work! I have never seen a better operator or a harder worker than you are young man! Highest regards, Bill Place
Those things are heavy. I bought a Mustang MTL25 with a bad motor. Parts for the repair were $10,000.00. I managed to find a used travel motor and problem solved.
I'd like s.o. to clarify your query about what happens if you start the engine with a hose disconnected - is it going to spew out an expensive tankful of oil?
What happened to make you think it was the final drive? Did the motor start getting jerky then cease to move the track? My JCB js240 seems to have just damaged the final drive somewhere. My right side track no longer moves and I think I heard a breaking sound inside. I'm trying to research what may have happened and how much it is going to cost to repair. Machine is now stuck on jobsite. 😩
I found this on "heavy equipment forums" ....The Caterpillar operators manual recommends that the drive sprockets be in the rear when digging. And on another note, have you looked into a complete used motor as opposed to rebuilding?
I've heard you're not supposed to dig with the weight on the motors because of damage to them, but is that the kind of damage that would happen if you constantly and repeatedly put load on the motor side instead of the idler side?
So, that begs the question: Is there a "front" to these machines? Obviously there is forward/reverse, but is it better to have one or the other in the front (e.g. idler or motor) during travel?
69adrummer Yes usually try and travel with your idlers in front, less wear on components that way. Mast tracked vehicles usually have their motors/drives at the back
there is a piston on the front for tension on the tracks, it isnt set in stone it has a large spring inside it, helps absorb some of the shock of digging rough ground, your not going to "damage" anything, but premature wear is considered damage...
letsdig18 i hear ya on the money! i had a track quit on our old machine. the brake drum doubles as a coupler between the hyd motor and rest of the drive, to my disapointment this was not the issue :( now im svavenging for a final drive that is compatable lol
Don't want to nit pick too much Chris but one of the things that was taught in heavy duty mechanic school when dealing with hydraulics is to keep things as clean as possible like cleaning all that dirt off the track frame before removing the travel motor. That way it prevents any dirt from getting into the hoses or the travel motor when either removing it or reinstalling it. All the best on fixing up your excavator those Case/Link Belt/ Sumitomo machines are very nice machines to operate.
Really enjoy these types of videos. thanks for sharing.
That's a good point I've never thought about it but now that u mention it digging over the drive motors is probably not the greatest idea
Really cool video. keep em coming. Thanks!
Another great video. I generally enjoy watching your skills operating the Volvo(s), but am especially interested in working on machinery that needs a little TLC. Watching you/Copperhead on the 215/235 is about my speed; I have a 225, & a Case W24B articulating wheel loader.
If the drive motor is otherwise good, but the splines are stripped on the shaft, I may be able to help. Making the shaft would be a lot cheaper than going through the dealer.
Looks good!
i dont know to much about offroad machinery, but when i visited a college for diesel, the professor talked about some guy bringing a drive motor like that to the college in the back of his subaru outback, lol
At least the securing bolts came out a whole lot easier than the outer ring! It will be interesting to hear how you get on with the independent repair shop rather than the dealer however I still think you will have a substantial bill to pay!
Would copperhead marine have any suggestions as to how you might get a cheaper repair?
Look at where you are now. You had to get through this to get this, to achieve what you have. Quite impressive.
Chris. just take some zip lock bags and some electrical tape as plugs. Put the bag over and then electrical tape the bag to the line. It is not perfect as I'd like to use caps but in a pinch this will work
Little Christmas present for the excavator on the way thru paypal, Be safe and keep up the great work! I have never seen a better operator or a harder worker than you are young man!
Highest regards,
Bill Place
thank you!
thanks again for videoing the repair. maybe someone could do a matching funds donation.
Would it be best for you to get a parts excavator?
Those things are heavy. I bought a Mustang MTL25 with a bad motor. Parts for the repair were $10,000.00. I managed to find a used travel motor and problem solved.
I don’t know why I was thinking of the car when I read mustang 😂
I'd like s.o. to clarify your query about what happens if you start the engine with a hose disconnected - is it going to spew out an expensive tankful of oil?
who do you use for final drive rebuild ?
What happened to make you think it was the final drive? Did the motor start getting jerky then cease to move the track?
My JCB js240 seems to have just damaged the final drive somewhere. My right side track no longer moves and I think I heard a breaking sound inside. I'm trying to research what may have happened and how much it is going to cost to repair. Machine is now stuck on jobsite. 😩
I found this on "heavy equipment forums" ....The Caterpillar operators manual recommends that the drive sprockets be in the rear when digging. And on another note, have you looked into a complete used motor as opposed to rebuilding?
Far cry from the 220 you have today.
Hey Chris check this product out. It's called form a funnel. I use this on my heavy equipment all the time!!
Did you make sure you have pressure going to the motor
Are there any donor machines you can get the motor off of for like 1k
There was lots of soil on the machine in the area where the work was being done.
I may be missing something but it looked like your mechanic was working on a case backhoe and not an excavator
Yeah just realised the case was holding up the drive motor. My bad
It was the darkest of the night.
I've heard you're not supposed to dig with the weight on the motors because of damage to them, but is that the kind of damage that would happen if you constantly and repeatedly put load on the motor side instead of the idler side?
you can dig over the motors it wont destory them or really do an awful lot .. pro's dig over the idlers most of the time if they can.
So, that begs the question: Is there a "front" to these machines? Obviously there is forward/reverse, but is it better to have one or the other in the front (e.g. idler or motor) during travel?
69adrummer Yes usually try and travel with your idlers in front, less wear on components that way. Mast tracked vehicles usually have their motors/drives at the back
there is a piston on the front for tension on the tracks, it isnt set in stone it has a large spring inside it, helps absorb some of the shock of digging rough ground, your not going to "damage" anything, but premature wear is considered damage...
Do you have a PayPal account? I would donate to your cause. Really enjoy your videos!
Letsdig18@yahoo.com is the email for it. thanks a ton everyone. Please leave your name and I will give special shout outs to the ones who want it!
Just pick away at it. At least you don't have to make a living with it.
You need a buddy there to help,..I'll bet that from your viewers you could get 2 or 3,....hundred guys to help, me in there too !
oh I have help when I need it. I just need more money! LOL
letsdig18 i hear ya on the money! i had a track quit on our old machine. the brake drum doubles as a coupler between the hyd motor and rest of the drive, to my disapointment this was not the issue :( now im svavenging for a final drive that is compatable lol
Your videos have been rather dark recently. Might want to fiddle with the settings a bit.
Toys can be expensive to fix...
Crap! forget about fixing that thing today. I hear geese flying overhead, go get the gun!
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