What works even better is if you have a box blade you let the box down in front of the stump, then in low gear slowly drive forward and lift at the same time. Sometimes the box will jump over the stump, in that case you can do the same thing in reverse. You get more lifting power out of the back hydraulics and the box blade is more robust than the bucket.
I really like the way you explain things to people. You do a very good job and you are a very respectful human being that he's getting hard to find in this day and time
Mike addressed this point briefly, but it is worth making a bigger focus on it! The closer to the corner of your bucket, then greater the risk of tweaking your loader! Toward the middle of the bucket, you increase the risk of bending the cutting edge, especially if you are trying to lift the stump/rock/whatever! Somethings you can do to REDUCE these risk-work your stumps when the soil is damper, add a tooth bar to your cutting edge, push the stump not pry by lifting or curling the bucket. If the stumps are taller pull them out. Another option-line up a number of jobs on your place and rent a mini excavator or backhoe and dig out the stumps. Realize that if you tweak your loader, replacement is the only fix. If you bend the cutting edge/bucket replacement of the bucket is the only fix. Rental becomes much more feasible under these considerations!
Again, good advice with take it slow. Time is money, until you rush the job and start tearing up your equipment. A little more time spent doing it slowly can save big $$$ on the back end. I look forward to your winter videos. Thanks Mike.
You are correct Mike. I’ve had a large over growth of a weed that makes a nuisance tree we call seena beans. I purchased a implement that I attached to my bucket called a Ratchet Rake. It is great for helping remove small stumps rocks and other things like smoothing driveways.
Great video....another method I use is take my pallet forks in at a steep angle and cut the roots. This works very well and lets you remove larger stumps
One thing I did when hogging a property for the first time in a long time (reclaiming old farmland) was to put on a rock bucket with long tines. Going slow with the bucket a few inches above the ground helped insure that the bucket would find any old fence posts or rocks before the mower blades did.
Great video as always Mike. As far as seeing if there are any stumps under weeds and brush, would it be a good idea to go over the section that is grown up with a brish hog elevated off the ground a foot or 2, so your trimming the weeds, but not too low where you may damage the brush hog? I'm thinking about trying this technique and would like your advice.
Hey Mike if you get a chance try the brush grubber sometime, it’s little like a pallet grabber but used for pulling small brush and trees. Enjoy your channel up here in Troy, Mo. take care.
The oak, elm and juniper stumps should come out easily. Hackberry stumps can be harder due to their tap root. Wet soil makes is easier than dry. You might also want to do the "One Call" to locate any buried utilities. Often times buried phone, cable, fiber optics, etc. are buried on or very near your fence line.
Great advice! We had a good rain less than a week ago and that made what I was doing much easier. The conditions were about perfect when the video was done. I've had One Call mark that area already for putting in the corner post, even though the last survey showed there was nothing there, from a liability standpoint you're supposed to call right before you dig. If the last surveyors missed something it would be on me if I severed a line.
the BXpanded Back Hoe Ripper works great for these smaller stumps. i've ripped out stumps up to 8" dia and didnt leave big holes in the ground. Just smoothed it out with the FEL afterwords.
Hey Mike, what are your thoughts about using a sub-soiler to remove stumps? I am thinking that there would be less chance of damaging something by using the 3 point attachment, dropping the sub-soiler behind the stump and then pull it out by driving forward and lifting the sub-soiler at the same time.
That'll keep the dang stumps from sprouting new growth shoots as well!! I'm sure it'd have been easier to have gotten them out with the bush still attached....then you might could've used a choker and lifted them.
I recently purchased a stump grinder, after months of research I choose a stump blaster 3p34 by baumalight and I glad I did it's an amazing machine which matches nicly with my JD 5400 (70hp) I have used it on humdres of stumps by now some where nearly 4 ft in diameter. ( I will say the stump grinder uses all of the 70hp, if your thinking of buying one do not under power the grinder you won't be happy with the results)
Yeah, I have one rock by my driveway that the loader bucket won't budge. It may be as big as a house. I guess I'll learn to appreciate its beauty because it's not going anywhere.
I have literally thousands of small cedar (4" to 6") stumps on my property where the previous owner cleared the trees. Most go under the brush hog, but I want to put horses on the property and I see lots of vet bills in my future if I don't get rid of them. I would love to see you do a review of the different PTO and hydraulic stump grinders out there... the bucket on my Mahindra 1626 will get some but not all of them.
What are your though on 3 pt hitch backhoes u should do a segment on them. Subframe mount is better but hard to find especially with Chinese stuff eg. Lw7 thanks mike
Timely video... do you ever use one of these digging teeth bolt on accessories to your bucket? Been thinking about that. I need to remove a small dirt berm. I cleared the trees a couple years ago and need to remove the stumps.
I have an area which I want to go over with my bush hog, but is hesitant due to a large piece of concrete which is in that area somewhere and I need to get that out first. I know what you mean about those stumps close to the ground and one guy told me years ago after I cleared an area to set up my house that he could have cleared the area with his bulldozer if I had left everything there instead of cutting everything low where the dozer had a problem getting the stumps out.
Larry, I've had zero experience with pine trees. We're all hardwoods where I live. I would think they'd be easier to get out than oak but have no practical experience to back that up.
Thanks..actually I have my comments set up to where I have to approve them before they're public, so they come in waves. I hate doing that but the guys I watched to learn how to do UA-cam recommended it and occasionally I get someone promoting a Go Fund Me page, swearing at me or another viewer, or giving advice that I don't consider right that could get someone in trouble and I'll delete those comments. I maybe get a half dozen a year that I kill off, it's sure not a very big problem. That's why when the videos post you may not see comments for a while...if I'm busy it may be the next day. I do greatly appreciate all the comments, I get the best video ideas from comments.
Nancy, when I did the video it was late winter and the ground was wet and that whole process was real easy. Now, with it being a lot drier I probably couldn't do what I did then, so it kinda depends on the soil conditions, also the tree variety, so I don't know that there's a rule of thumb that X amount of horsepower can lift X diameter tree. You could sure try it on a smaller tractor and see, it it doesn't pop it out of the ground, try next spring.
@@TractorMike Please let me know the hp on the tractor you used, we are shopping for a tractor, and found a used 43hp tractor that is locally available. Just want to make sure we won't need something more powerful.
David, they had been cut a while. Also, it was early spring and had been raining every few days here so that made it substantially easier. There's no way it would work now. I'd let them set over the winter and come back after the freezing and thawing over the winter and spring rains (depending on where you live, this may not apply) and try it again and I think you'll get similar results to what the video showed.
I love you're videos Especially when I'm on the tread mill torturing myself. It keeps me pre occupied, plus I learn something. I do have a couple questions though, have you ever used or know anything about stump buckets. They are buckets that attach to front of tractor but instead of being six feet wide, they are only about two feet wide. Secondly, when I use my 72 inch finishing mower, and the ground is slightly wet, and I an going up hill, I get some slippage from the back tires. So I put it in 4 wheel drive and all is well. I decided just to leave it in 4 wheel drive full time. Is that bad for the tractor or transmission? Will it prematurely wear out my transmission? Thanks in advance Clay
Nope, never had any experience with stump buckets...I'm Googling them when I get done here. I don't think you'll hurt your tranny at all in 4wd. Just make sure you disengage when you get on pavement, that can be a little hard of the tires and the drivetrain.
What HP is your tractor? I’m trying this now with around 100 small stumps and they’re not coming out easy like that at all! I have a 40HP MF with a bucket and it’s getting some out but others of similar size don’t even budge...
It's a 40 hp, about the same size as what you have. That happened in the winter after a lot of rain. Won't guarantee it'll always work in all soil conditions, but I plucked a bunch of roots out the week I did that.
Tractor Mike ah ok well I did do the best after a good bit of rain so that makes sense. I live in Mississippi and it’s basically hard clay surrounding the hill I live on... Thanks for the site, I’ve actually learned quite a bit from watching. If I ever have any issues I come straight to yours to see if you’ve dealt with it first.!! Last issue was a bunch of (now dead) rats that cost a ton of money to repair the wire damage! Anyway, thank you again!!
As always, Mike! Great advice and superb demonstrations!
You’re correct - going slowly is key! Also, when possible, center the stump along the loader to minimize the chance of tweaking the loader arms...
What works even better is if you have a box blade you let the box down in front of the stump, then in low gear slowly drive forward and lift at the same time. Sometimes the box will jump over the stump, in that case you can do the same thing in reverse. You get more lifting power out of the back hydraulics and the box blade is more robust than the bucket.
I really like the way you explain things to people. You do a very good job and you are a very respectful human being that he's getting hard to find in this day and time
Best video I've seen on stump removal. Some of the comments were right on. Very helpful to a new guy.
Mike addressed this point briefly, but it is worth making a bigger focus on it! The closer to the corner of your bucket, then greater the risk of tweaking your loader! Toward the middle of the bucket, you increase the risk of bending the cutting edge, especially if you are trying to lift the stump/rock/whatever!
Somethings you can do to REDUCE these risk-work your stumps when the soil is damper, add a tooth bar to your cutting edge, push the stump not pry by lifting or curling the bucket. If the stumps are taller pull them out.
Another option-line up a number of jobs on your place and rent a mini excavator or backhoe and dig out the stumps. Realize that if you tweak your loader, replacement is the only fix. If you bend the cutting edge/bucket replacement of the bucket is the only fix. Rental becomes much more feasible under these considerations!
Not to mention that rental comes with damage waivers. Oops 😬
That was a great demonstration Mike. You are "right "slow and steady when using a F.E.Loader.
May sound odd but I use my pallet forks. I can slide one fork gently under the stump and pop them out. Great video as always.
GREAT idea.
Not odd, works great!!
You always have some great tips. Keep up the good work. Cheers
Thanks Mike for another good video. Saves your saw chain and your back.
Great video! Thanks
For bigger stumps you can use a 3pt subsoiler to cut the roots to the sides of the stump. Then you can use the bucket.
Again, good advice with take it slow. Time is money, until you rush the job and start tearing up your equipment. A little more time spent doing it slowly can save big $$$ on the back end. I look forward to your winter videos. Thanks Mike.
Good morning Tractor Mike! Thanks - very helpful information ! Merry Christmas!
You are correct Mike. I’ve had a large over growth of a weed that makes a nuisance tree we call seena beans. I purchased a implement that I attached to my bucket called a Ratchet Rake. It is great for helping remove small stumps rocks and other things like smoothing driveways.
I enjoy your videos 😊, thank you so much ❤️
A toothbar really helps in situation like this
A box blade works very well for pulling small stumps like you're doing in the video. The 3pt hitch has a bit more lifting power than the bucket.
Good information
Mike, just wanted to wish you and your family a Merry Christmas and Happy New Year and thanks for the videos
Thanks for watching and same to you and your family!
Merry Christmas!
Very educational. I have this on my to do list. Thanks tractor Mike!!
Great video....another method I use is take my pallet forks in at a steep angle and cut the roots. This works very well and lets you remove larger stumps
Well done Mike!👍🏻✌🏻️🎅🏻
Very helpful! Thanks so much!
Great info thanks
One thing I did when hogging a property for the first time in a long time (reclaiming old farmland) was to put on a rock bucket with long tines. Going slow with the bucket a few inches above the ground helped insure that the bucket would find any old fence posts or rocks before the mower blades did.
Great idea...wish I'd thought of it!
Great video as always Mike. As far as seeing if there are any stumps under weeds and brush, would it be a good idea to go over the section that is grown up with a brish hog elevated off the ground a foot or 2, so your trimming the weeds, but not too low where you may damage the brush hog? I'm thinking about trying this technique and would like your advice.
Rachet rake will make this job much easier.
Good video, I’ll try it.
This works well on Bush honeysuckle. The roots are pretty shallow and like to sprout.
Good advice finesse not brute force
Hey Mike if you get a chance try the brush grubber sometime, it’s little like a pallet grabber but used for pulling small brush and trees. Enjoy your channel up here in Troy, Mo. take care.
The oak, elm and juniper stumps should come out easily. Hackberry stumps can be harder due to their tap root. Wet soil makes is easier than dry. You might also want to do the "One Call" to locate any buried utilities. Often times buried phone, cable, fiber optics, etc. are buried on or very near your fence line.
Great advice! We had a good rain less than a week ago and that made what I was doing much easier. The conditions were about perfect when the video was done. I've had One Call mark that area already for putting in the corner post, even though the last survey showed there was nothing there, from a liability standpoint you're supposed to call right before you dig. If the last surveyors missed something it would be on me if I severed a line.
Excellent
the BXpanded Back Hoe Ripper works great for these smaller stumps. i've ripped out stumps up to 8" dia and didnt leave big holes in the ground. Just smoothed it out with the FEL afterwords.
Making it look good!
Hey Mike, what are your thoughts about using a sub-soiler to remove stumps?
I am thinking that there would be less chance of damaging something by using the 3 point attachment, dropping the sub-soiler behind the stump and then pull it out by driving forward and lifting the sub-soiler at the same time.
That'll keep the dang stumps from sprouting new growth shoots as well!! I'm sure it'd have been easier to have gotten them out with the bush still attached....then you might could've used a choker and lifted them.
Some good tips. Thanks Mike.
I recently purchased a stump grinder, after months of research I choose a stump blaster 3p34 by baumalight and I glad I did it's an amazing machine which matches nicly with my JD 5400 (70hp) I have used it on humdres of stumps by now some where nearly 4 ft in diameter. ( I will say the stump grinder uses all of the 70hp, if your thinking of buying one do not under power the grinder you won't be happy with the results)
dont have to worry about it sending up suckers in the spring either.
Looking to remove oleander stumps along a fence. Should I rent a small escavtor or skid loader?
I have also used that technique on partially exposed rock. But, just like on stumps, you have to go slow and it doesn't work well on really big rocks.
Yeah, I have one rock by my driveway that the loader bucket won't budge. It may be as big as a house. I guess I'll learn to appreciate its beauty because it's not going anywhere.
You need a ratchet rack from Tractor Supply that will help remove under brush.
Second that, I have a Ratchet Rake and it works great on pulling out vines and brush and brambles, even small trees.
I have literally thousands of small cedar (4" to 6") stumps on my property where the previous owner cleared the trees. Most go under the brush hog, but I want to put horses on the property and I see lots of vet bills in my future if I don't get rid of them. I would love to see you do a review of the different PTO and hydraulic stump grinders out there... the bucket on my Mahindra 1626 will get some but not all of them.
I'd say rent a bulldozer and hit them all in a week.
Slow is smooth, and smooth is fast, and anything else will bust your A..!
have a helper cut a notch in each stump for bucket edge to go into. push and lift and will come out every time
How about a video on snow plowing a gravel driveway without trashing it?
I would not pry on a stump with the center of my bucket good way to bend the cutting edge if it was a big stump and the ground drier
good tip thanks!
What are your though on 3 pt hitch backhoes u should do a segment on them. Subframe mount is better but hard to find especially with Chinese stuff eg. Lw7 thanks mike
Timely video... do you ever use one of these digging teeth bolt on accessories to your bucket? Been thinking about that. I need to remove a small dirt berm. I cleared the trees a couple years ago and need to remove the stumps.
Dan I haven't. People that have them love them. I've never used a tractor with teeth on the bucket. That's on the list for the future.
I have an area which I want to go over with my bush hog, but is hesitant due to a large piece of concrete which is in that area somewhere and I need to get that out first. I know what you mean about those stumps close to the ground and one guy told me years ago after I cleared an area to set up my house that he could have cleared the area with his bulldozer if I had left everything there instead of cutting everything low where the dozer had a problem getting the stumps out.
Have a Merry Christmas .
Thanks Cliff, you too!
Seen alot of loader arms bent doing this..
Do you think that this would work on pine tree stumps without hurting the bucket? Thanks for the video Mike.
I've had good luck cutting a pine tree as much as 6 to 8 in 4 feet above the ground and pushing at the top pops right out that way.
Larry, I've had zero experience with pine trees. We're all hardwoods where I live. I would think they'd be easier to get out than oak but have no practical experience to back that up.
Thanks Mike, and have a great Christmas.
Is there a reason you don’t have a cutting edge bolted to your bucket , also makes the bottom of the bucket stronger
It's on my "want" list.
Great Video.... First comment 😁
Thanks..actually I have my comments set up to where I have to approve them before they're public, so they come in waves. I hate doing that but the guys I watched to learn how to do UA-cam recommended it and occasionally I get someone promoting a Go Fund Me page, swearing at me or another viewer, or giving advice that I don't consider right that could get someone in trouble and I'll delete those comments. I maybe get a half dozen a year that I kill off, it's sure not a very big problem. That's why when the videos post you may not see comments for a while...if I'm busy it may be the next day. I do greatly appreciate all the comments, I get the best video ideas from comments.
@@TractorMike K. Thanks for the replying to comment.
Mike, would you have any advice on how large the tractor and loader would need to be, that is the minimum size for moving stumps? Thank you,
Nancy, when I did the video it was late winter and the ground was wet and that whole process was real easy. Now, with it being a lot drier I probably couldn't do what I did then, so it kinda depends on the soil conditions, also the tree variety, so I don't know that there's a rule of thumb that X amount of horsepower can lift X diameter tree. You could sure try it on a smaller tractor and see, it it doesn't pop it out of the ground, try next spring.
@@TractorMike Please let me know the hp on the tractor you used, we are shopping for a tractor, and found a used 43hp tractor that is locally available. Just want to make sure we won't need something more powerful.
How old are these stumps? I just got a tractor and I cannot get stumps out nearly as easy as this. Mine are just cut couple weeks ago.
David, they had been cut a while. Also, it was early spring and had been raining every few days here so that made it substantially easier. There's no way it would work now. I'd let them set over the winter and come back after the freezing and thawing over the winter and spring rains (depending on where you live, this may not apply) and try it again and I think you'll get similar results to what the video showed.
I love you're videos
Especially when I'm on the tread mill torturing myself. It keeps me pre occupied, plus I learn something.
I do have a couple questions though, have you ever used or know anything about stump buckets. They are buckets that attach to front of tractor but instead of being six feet wide, they are only about two feet wide.
Secondly, when I use my 72 inch finishing mower, and the ground is slightly wet, and I an going up hill, I get some slippage from the back tires. So I put it in 4 wheel drive and all is well. I decided just to leave it in 4 wheel drive full time. Is that bad for the tractor or transmission? Will it prematurely wear out my transmission?
Thanks in advance
Clay
Nope, never had any experience with stump buckets...I'm Googling them when I get done here. I don't think you'll hurt your tranny at all in 4wd. Just make sure you disengage when you get on pavement, that can be a little hard of the tires and the drivetrain.
@@TractorMike
Thank you sir
👍
What HP is your tractor? I’m trying this now with around 100 small stumps and they’re not coming out easy like that at all! I have a 40HP MF with a bucket and it’s getting some out but others of similar size don’t even budge...
It's a 40 hp, about the same size as what you have. That happened in the winter after a lot of rain. Won't guarantee it'll always work in all soil conditions, but I plucked a bunch of roots out the week I did that.
Tractor Mike ah ok well I did do the best after a good bit of rain so that makes sense. I live in Mississippi and it’s basically hard clay surrounding the hill I live on... Thanks for the site, I’ve actually learned quite a bit from watching. If I ever have any issues I come straight to yours to see if you’ve dealt with it first.!! Last issue was a bunch of (now dead) rats that cost a ton of money to repair the wire damage! Anyway, thank you again!!
A Piranha tooth bar would reinforce your bucket edge and aid in biting the stump and those random rocks you have.
c
What model is your New Holland
Barry, it's a 2000 TC40D. I loved selling them and love owning one!
@@TractorMike I have a workmaster 60
Don't think this will work on West Texas mesquite. Lol
Your stumps are not like stumps in New Hampshire. Just saying.
Squealer bush hog?