How did I film the Descent at the end? Got this question so many times, so it's time to pin the answer ;) Nothing special, filmed on a Gopro Hero 9 amzn.to/3qODCeY With the Max Lens Mod amzn.to/3AxArNq Mounted underneath the handlebars with the Gopro Handlebar mount amzn.to/2UpSW5R Nothing done in post apart from some slight color tweaks. Cheers for watching!
I know what you mean. I moved chain as close without rubbing frame. Don't use bb spacers. My mtb was loud like a train. I played with bb spacing and it works. Added a wine bottle cork into the hole of my crank arm.
Just finished setting up 2x with rotor oval axs compatible cranks. Its a little quieter now. As a result the bike put on a little weight, as expected with 2x , maybe time for a uber light frame.... Hmmm, which one I wonder.?? :)
Hi is it possible to fit a thin plate/bracket for a chain catcher between a BSA BB and the frame? I was thinking of making a chain catcher to prevent chain drops on my 2x
Just problem solver of a non issue they trying to sell you .At less than 300 gram difference and way more flexibility with 2x it MAKES NO SENSE to go 1x. Majority of group set weight is at the lever as well. And u need that left control for the brakes regardless you save total of one chain ring and front derailleur plus some cables of weight .
I feel like the 1x changing the world is wishful thinking. To go the same range you’re basically moving weight from the front rings to the cassette and dropping the weight of a fd and shift cable…negligible. If weight is the goal spend $$$ on a cassette and call it a day
You probly aren't a mechanic then lol. Frame manufacturers and parts manufacturers communication sucks something awful. Most people just get the end result of a what is sometimes a nightmare level of work. Also most riders don't know how to shift correctly to utilize all the gears of a 2x front so it's just wasted weight and cost of parts.
The most important reason why I watch this channel is cz RoJ has such first-world problems that mere mortals can only dream of. Hint: M the mere mortal. My bicycle is cheaper than the chainrings he uses. :D
Getting out and riding is what matters. Do not let any slight noise bother you. That is what can happen when you have expensive bikes you get too annoyed when it is not working perfectly. When you have a cheap bike, it is fun, you can forgive its small issues and focus on how much fun can be so cheap. Enjoy. PS. it does not bother me if my bike gets a scratch at all. I just laugh it off. Focus on the adventure, not the speed or other stuff!
I know I've said this before but I freaking love this channel. Killer production, good content, and the pod racer scene at the end is just fun. Good on you, man. Let me know when the channel gets big enough to have a "members" section
Cheers mate! I’ve had the member functionality for a long time, but I have nothing extra to offer so I won’t enable it :) monetary support is not the reason I make videos, if you like the content that’s more than I can ever ask for 🙌
Man, i spend almost a month, trying figure out whats that f**** noise. I brought a roadbike secondhand with that sound, now i will try the same thing as you, it’s a old 105 8speed with STI shifters. Thanks a lot!
You can really fixate on small creaks and sounds during long ascents, so I totally get this. In the end it’s all about making your ride as enjoyable as possible 👍🏻
I think one other factor to consider in the noise discussion is that with 1X the chain ring is in the center of the cassette (or is supposed to be, if the chainline allows for it). With 2X you have the chain rings offset, so the angle between the largest cogs and the smallest chain ring is less. But I have no personal experience with this, so I'm just speculating. I also like 2X over 1X because you can always just shift the chain rings when you want to stand up for a while and then shift down when you are sitting or at a stop light. Now what is the next project....🤨
You forgot to subtract the (micro)grams of paint you lost with the scratches on the bottom bracket. As you say, there is always a silver lining (or carbon black lining, in this case). Thanks for the enjoyable video - and the great closing sequence!
Was about to ask the same question... where was the camera mounted cause it's dead center. Was thinking if it's under the computer mount but it's not! Great vid!
I had the same experience with my cyclocross bike when attempted to go 1X. I did not like that grumbling noise and feel. I am back to the 2X and happy again.
Man, adding weight and scratching that paint - I can feel your pain. But it‘s so cool you are giving us these heads-up. And a killer production as always. 👍
That fixed height front derailleur mount is an issue on many bikes - including ones that are spec'd with 46 chainrings. I had / have a Salsa Warbird and a Rodeo Labs Trail Donkey that are supposed to work with a 46t - I asked specifically - but the mount is positioned on the bike for 50t - 54t. Perfect for installing cranks on an adventure / gravel bike. A good reason to get a frame with a clamp-on derailleur... I did manage to get the shifting to work without chain drops, even though the derailleur was 6 - 7 mm above the chainring.
I faced the same problem with the front derailleur height when I switched to Rotor 46/30 sub-compact rings. Couldn't get my Ultegra Di2 derailleur low enough until I discovered the Sugino MT-OX adapter. Now everything is working as expected, with zero chain drops in 9+ months. Try it!
Love the descent portion, but the pavement with grooves to drain water was scary. I am thinking those sections of pavement would give you a little less traction. Thanks for your great video as always.
Yes, same here. I have seen several motorcycle accidents because of them and hate them with a passion. There is no way I’d motor through them like RoJ did. I also usually slow down for the red/yellow stripes, because of the traction. But that’s probably why I don’t have any downhill KOMs ;-)
Some of the best production quality on YT! That descent was awesome. Start looking for the DA cassette, I just grabbed one on the used market for $70, saved 50g. I can live with that!
I've been going through a similar exercise on my road 1x but my chainstay is 418mm so seems just about okay. My biggest offender was a 3T overdrive cassette... swapped out for a Sram XG1190 and the difference is night and day. So much quieter and smoother :)
Meanwhile I too did a 1x conversion on my Caad. 46 x 11-28 though, because well.. flatlands. And the AbsoluteBlack chainrigs are indeed nice and quiet.
Hey kuba, thanks for the insight! Im running 1x 40t grx with ultegra 11-30 cassette, and was thinking to upgrade to a bigger size chainring. Able to share why running a larger chainring would lead to a quieter ride? Whats the mechanics behind it?
@@Yes-sc1pb hey mate was reading thru the comments and saw one that said stone chainrings are worth a shot as well. Price is pretty reasonable on aliexpress, almost half the price of wolftooth on amazon (im in singapore) you might want to check it out. Am awaiting to pull the trigger on either a 42t or 44t, hope someone would enlighten me on why going with a bigger chainring would help with the noise.
Love seeing your thought process and all the twists and turns to arrive at current setup. I have had similar bike build issues and its sadly comforting to see I'm not alone. The video commentary and footnotes are super entertaining. Dont ever change.
Great video as usual! This noise problem is weird anyway: I've used 1x (42t and 11-36) with my old bike (410mm chain stay) and the new one (415mm chain stay) and I've never experienced terrible noises when the chain was at the 2 ends of the cassette...maybe only when the real derailleur wasn't spot on it was a little annoying but it was something manageable...anyway I was way more annoyed by the front derailleur continuously rubbing before my 1x conversion. Have you tried with the other rear derailleur by any chance?
I had similar issues moving to sub-compact. Merida even told me that a 46-30 won't be possible to install. But now I have a 46-30 oval (at the max diameter is like a 48 so the derailleur does not need to go too low). I installed some FD spacers, although not for taken the derailleur down, but backwards and also changing the angle. I did installed a chain deflector for my peace of mind. No complaints about FD shifting. As smooth as with the original 105 50-34, if not better.
Thanks for the advice, I will try it the FD adaptors if further adjusting won't help. Just last week I tried the absoluteBLACK 46/30 and experienced chain drops for the first time. Even after curing that, theory on the stand and riding muddy gravel in undulating terrain is quite a difference. I guess I'll come around these issues eventually.
@@nikveldkamp8630 For oval rings, an adaptor that can push the derailleur backwards and that can also move the angle slightly counterclockwise (not sure if that would decrease or increase the angle XD) does seem to increase shifting performance. Although don't ask me why. Where I live, tarmac is pretty smooth and it would be actually really hard to find gravel roads longer than, I don't know, 1 km. This helps with shifting. But I think that a chain deflector (or catcher) is a no brainer. With the FD, that area is already cluttered anyway, and I didn't want to risk the carbon. I just checked, and mine is like new. I guess it didn't have the chance to do anything, yet. If you're using Shimano FD and the derailleur support screw will fall outside of the braze-on plate, be sure to stick a support plate in the frame. Shimano reference: Y2C098030
@@Membrillo81 thanks for the details. I'm lucky - fd with band clamp, so tons of room to move it, but not backwards, hence looking for the mentioned adapter plates. Secondly, no chaindrop to the inside until now. Thirdly no carbon frame, rugged old aluminium (maybe not as sustainable as steel, yet next best thing, as its 20 years old.
@@Membrillo81 or not so lucky?! Thinking about it, I may have to swap for a braze-on fd plus band clamp adapter to fit in the plates to move it backwsrds. Will try adjusting the fd a LOT more before doing that...😅
@@nikveldkamp8630 Yeah, I am not sure if there are any spacers for clamp type derailleurs. The ones I know are for braze-on. I was riding a 10 years old alloy MTB until this year, when I bought my first carbon frame bike. It has to last, because as you said, it is not the most sustainable material.
I see you have Shimano hub, but just hypothetically -- assuming you buy a rear wheel with XDR driver body -- would you be happy with SRAM force Etap 1x12 ASX? cassette starts with 10t, so you can shrink the chainring by 10% and have 10-36 at the back. I watch your 2019 one-by video where you stated that big gaps in the cassette aren't an issue, so you cant' use this excuse anymore :) And ... you can ditch all those wires too and that banana-size battery.
I recently changed to Garbaruk chainrings as I "needed" the anodized color they provide, and indeed those teeth make it sound hak hak hak hak hak, in my setup it's only on the fast gears though. I've not yet decided if I'm going to get irritated about it or not. Maybe I'll try a less stiff chain to make it a bit less apparent, a great tip from this video. I use a 44, which is overkill size for my riding and power, but gives a straight chainline for the gears I use the most, otherwise I'd use a 40.
I recently switched to Smoove Lube and so far am quite impressed, helps run a quiet drive train (imo). Doesn't get too dirty, easy to clean off using the Smoove Prep and reapply (well a bit of extra faff as I heat it in a cup of boiling water before applying).
The adventure of building your own bike up with sweet parts is so educational, thanks for taking us along on your journey Tobias. Excited to see what parts you bolt to the THM cranks. Please give me a heads up on the badass lion t-shirt you're wearing, I have to have one. Loved the jazzy ride at the end too.
All of those 1x chainrings have the same problem. If you want to make them quiet you need to file off the trailing edge on an angle of each tooth. Take a look at sram xsync chains. The noise comes from the teeth hanging on to the chain at the bottom.
Cycling is = to many cool things. And one of them is feeling the freedom to cycle as you like, when you like, and how you like. I'm old school and learned that when riding the angle of the chain it should not be too angled. As the wear on chain, chain rings, and cassette is much more noticeable. But for those who love and use the 1× Great for them! But no one should be looked down on for using it, or someone using a 2×!! The same goes for rim brakes or disc brakes and going tubeless or not, and lastly Di2 or mechanical gears... The important thing is to get on the damn bike and ride!! Hell, and use what ever component blows your skirt up use it !! And that's that! This channel is an excellent example of using what ever "HE" thinks is proper and best for his style of riding. He's totally honest and straight forward with his OCD and his content is tops! Much respect goes out to folks like him. ❓ Have you ever been affected in some way by the hype in the cycling industry? I for one have! Example; you bike is doing just great, it rides beautifully, absolutely a gem. One day you see hype on a particular product and many saying it's the best... You decide to change something on your bike, like the seat, or a longer slammed goose neck/stem (like the pros) and think "yes!!! This will add more bling to my wonderful bike, right?! Wrong!!! You immediately notice that now your back hurts and your arse doesn't like to seat, and or the forced position because of getting a longer slammed stem!! Etc etc ... If you make a change to better your riding "DO IT"!! But unnecessary changes without investigating 1st. can ruin everything... Safe riding to all
Love the vid. Shimano Di2 is great and I do use it for performance but for my “just riding” bike I use Campagnolo 11sp mechanical with hydraulic discs. Quiet and effective, light and shifts really sweetly.
Hah, trying to get my head around that my inspiration to go x1 from x2 is going in the reverse direction 🧐 Ah well, it’s not exactly been a rapid transition for me…eight month wait for new GRX levers is nearly over allegedly so my Open U.P. may see some gravelly track in 2021 after all 😜. Just a pity the warrantee claim on my Domane frame isn’t going anywhere fast so the fancy paint job I’ve booked (🤔 where’d I get that idea….) is stuck in the mud and double pity that last weekend I detonated a small explosion that destroyed the hanger, derailleur and chain on my Madone. I never realised I needed x4 bikes until now 🤣. My LBW has come to the rescue tho’ and I’m getting a loaner Cervello, grx, x1 with 650b wheels so least I’ll know what the Open may feel like…eventually. Absolutely ❤️ RoJ. Best channel here for my £ (if I had any left 😬)
I tried that! the front d hit the seat tube! The seat tube flared out down near the bottom bracket, and the front d hit the inside of my crank arm. I still like bikes that do not have a front d hanger. You need a round seat tube.
just about spit my coffee out, love your math skills. Glad to see we are ALL the same about our love of the sport. This episode is me in a nutshell for just about every aspect parts related. ride on
Props for the direction of this change. For me, the only 1x option would probably be Classified hub/wheel but to my gravel bike with longer chainstays. Love your videos!
Doesn’t like the chain noise but has an angry wasp rear hub and a squeaky mouse FD. My GRX 810 group is nearly 2 years old and doesn’t make half the noise.
FSA has an adapter for your braze on mount that allows you to use subcompact chainrings. I recently changed the gears on my road bike from 52/36 to 46/30. I run DA mechanical and no drawback in shifting. One additional thing to note is that you may need a backing plate to adjust your front derailleur screw.
duuuuuude the only way to do if on short chainstays is to use a 9-32 or 9-36 cassette and a 40t chainring and boom lighter cassette, lighter chain, lighter chainring and quiet… you went back 2x ewww shame on you! ;) 40/9 is = 53/11 so you could even go 38t front
Thanks for making this video! I've always been curious about 1x setups. I live in a really flat area (GTA, Ontario, Canada), so I rarely ever use the smaller chainring on my 52/36 crankset, and I only have an 11-25 cassette at the back! Sure, there are hills that I can't climb up unless I shift to the smaller chainring, but I encounter those maybe once every week or so; certainly not on my usual rides. It'd be interesting to do a 1x with a 50 tooth chainring and an 11-25 cassette.
Brantford, ON. I've built 1x11 42t front and 11t-40t back sram rival. Works pretty good. My wife has the same setup but 11-42 back. Her setup isn't as smooth as mine. Maybe shorter chain stay like he mentioned in this video.
I have a 10 speed two bi set up with a rear 11/46 cassette. The front chain rings are 42 and 33 (33 was the smaller chain ring I could get for my crank arm set up). It took 5 different front derailleur to find one that worked, as I hit the problem of not being able to lower the derailleur enough to the right high above the largest chain ring. In the end I bought a shimano GRX FD-RX400. This works and although the gap between the chain ring and derailleur is technically to large, it shifts ok, granted it’s probably not up to your high standards (ROJ), but I have been using it for some months and even taken it bike packing with a loaded bike. The rear derailleur is a shimano GRX 10 speed with a road DM goat link so I can use the 11/46 cassette, it’s all cable, no Di2 yet.
It looks like your B screw adjustment could be a one or two threads longer which would quiet things down a bit by the cassette. Also, If you loosen the screw about a half turn for the lower pulley wheel on the derailleur things get quieter at the bottom of the cage as it gives a couple degrees to the chain angle coming off the pulley wheel, while not effecting the shifting at all (which is what the upper pulley wheel is for). Easton chainrings are the quietest for me.
I cant stand the sound of the 1x on my MTB. The effects of which are obvious on my pulley teeth and chain ring. I live in foothills so I do not need a 50+ cassette or 12 gears. My preferred set up (for cost, performance, sound and range) is an 11-42 XT cassette, chain and a Wolftooth 36 oval ring. There are no more 2x options for the bike frame I own, nor would I want to go back to a front deraillure.
I will did this kind of conversion because I dont have the choice... My front derailller cable failed and in my propel, internal cabling is a f*****g non sense! Long story short the cable had a coating and this coating clug the gain and now I am waiting for a b.o. giant piece of garbage internal cabling guide and gain $!?+6$+$#. I was all fine with that until I broke my MTB. I am now on my plan c which is not the last by the way. N+1 is a must for a 77 kg puncher like me. That said I will look at many of your video, Ibdidnt watch something like a year and a half. Keep it up man.
Interesting video. Thanks for sharing it! When we ride on the green way with our silent 3x7 comfort bikes I'm always amazed by the high level of noise that come from all the more modern and racy bikes we see out there. On rare occasion, I ride at the same pace as these other bikes so I don;t think it is because they are putting more pressure on the drive train than I am. Except for a few places where I would prefer to sit and spin rather than stand and mash I stay on the middle ring which is quiet on all 7 cogs. I'm only used the big ring to see if it works and what it feels like so it is basically a bash guard for the useful rings.
I feel you, esp. on the chaindropping part ( not due to my old frame but for the safety of the ride)! As the 110 bcd leaves no other option if going subcompact, I had to opt for oval, too. But the ride experience is worth it, esp. spinning uphill on gravel. I will try FD adaptors if further adjusting won't help. Just last week I tried curiously the absoluteBLACK 46/30 ovals and experienced chain drops for the first time. Even after curing that (angling the FD inwards), shifting theory on the stand and riding muddy gravel in undulating terrain is quite a difference. Still have to work out some kinks, e.g. shifting onto the 46 under load, noisy while on the smaller cogs. I'm less obsessed with the noise in itself but with the thought of abrasion, component wear and mostly friction - wasting some of of my precious few watts I have to spare. No issues with the easy gears, though, even cross-chaining on the big (less smaller? ;) ring is fine - that's 46/42. Cross-chaining on the small 30T to the smaller third of the cassette is noisy, not so counter-intuitive somehow as the company says that their subcompact rings move the chainline 2.5 mm inwards, yet there was ample space between chain and the fd shifting plates - on the stand, at least... Well, we live to learn, right?
Have you tried 12 speed xtr chain? I have garbaruk 40t 1x front ring in my SS EVO 2gen, 11-34 ultegra cassette, and 12 speed xtr chain; there is some noise but nowhere near as loud as in your video
I have complete SRAM NX drivetrain in my rockrider XC 100 and this isn't noisy at all, if it's greased properly. I hope that in future there will be belts instead of chains and gearboxes instead of derailleurs. Why? cause casettes are mud lovers and dothing can change it.
Stay away from Shimano if you want low noise. Try using sram eagle or sram road 12 speed rd and cassette. The noise between shimano and sram is day and night. Agree with absolute black chainring for quietness.
Your cinematic skills are just phenomenal, not this Video in particular but your channel in total :) On the topic I finally have somebody to report the same noise that I was experiencing. Though was never sure what exactly it was. As it only happens occasionally on my Trek Checkpoint with 1x grx.
I was struggling with noise on my 1x 11 setup. Solved it by changing the derailleur pulleys back to plastic(pom) getting a 12 speed ybn chain and realigning the derailleur hanger. I learned this the hard way from my other bike which I was struggling with the gearshifts. I bought new shifters changed shifter cables, swapped in a derailleur only to realise the hanger was misaligned causing a loud drivetrain and inconsistent shifts. And now it's as quiet as the 2x setup the bike originally came with.
I like the fact I can shift gears in a sequence. I don't need to match front and rear combinations. I use my 1x12 like a motorcycle, just bump gears up and down
Great video as always! (You have a typo in the scene title things, I think: you accidentally (I believe) titled the pod-racing clip "BOUNS" instead of "BONUS")
I’m a professional bike mechanic and I constantly learn new compatibility for new tech from your trial and error process. I’m running 1x on my emonda almost identical to yours in color and set up. But I’m running a 46 tooth wolf tooth ring. Been thinking about changing back but keeping the grx as my rear derailleur running 50x34 and 11-40.
50x34 with 11-40 is interesting idea, the question I would worry about there is if the GRX can take up that much chain slack or not (I have no idea myself) Cheers!
Hi, I want to visit Japan next Year and want to getting to now country, people and of course riding a bike there! Do you have any recommendations for me? I love food! and bikes! ;)
"That noise..." Recall, you got me on to the Garburuk chain ring for flattop chains. I run the aero 1x chain ring, and in extreme angles, its so loud, that it sounds like a broken bike. I have tried extra lube, still loud. I didn't think about the stay length!! I have an Allez sprint, and chain stay is around 400mm....that doesn't help. I did full analysis yesterday on converting to 2x and was sitting on the fence. You might be right....I may have to go back to 2X. (Ugh)
@rides of japan , do you know of any system that is DIrect-mount 3-Bolt spider that can take oval chain rings for SRAM AXS Flattop chains? Rotor has it, and it would mean I will need to ditch the Praxis carbon cranks I have. Curious?
With all the stocks globally running low, was able to find Rotor Oval Chain rings & Crank (Aldhu) 2x (pretty awesome modular system) that would be able to support the SRAM AXS flat top chains. Installed and tested. Its pretty good, however, chain slipping does happen up front regularly...oval chain rings do not itself to smooth shifting. So far the benefits outweigh the Chain drops, so putting up with it.
1x10 is the best . if you have chicken legs even 3x12 wont be enough in my opinion . i could show how quiet my drivetrain works even if it is dirty you would be surprised
The level camera in the descent video is great and I've been thinking about a way to get my headlights to do the same thing. Do you mind sharing some details (or just a link) to the gimbal you're using to mount to the handlebar?
How did I film the Descent at the end? Got this question so many times, so it's time to pin the answer ;)
Nothing special, filmed on a Gopro Hero 9
amzn.to/3qODCeY
With the Max Lens Mod
amzn.to/3AxArNq
Mounted underneath the handlebars with the Gopro Handlebar mount
amzn.to/2UpSW5R
Nothing done in post apart from some slight color tweaks.
Cheers for watching!
You need to get into some drone action. Check out skydio2 drones. I have been using that for a few rides and it's very advanced and minimal fuss.
I know what you mean. I moved chain as close without rubbing frame. Don't use bb spacers. My mtb was loud like a train. I played with bb spacing and it works. Added a wine bottle cork into the hole of my crank arm.
Just finished setting up 2x with rotor oval axs compatible cranks. Its a little quieter now. As a result the bike put on a little weight, as expected with 2x , maybe time for a uber light frame.... Hmmm, which one I wonder.?? :)
Does the software allow you do keep the picture level? Almost seems like a gimble how smooth it is.
Hi is it possible to fit a thin plate/bracket for a chain catcher between a BSA BB and the frame? I was thinking of making a chain catcher to prevent chain drops on my 2x
Probably the highest quality cycling videos. Thanks!
No, Thank you!
Can't understand all the hating on front derailleurs - nothing more pleasing than a well setup 2x setup in my view.
Front der. are super important lol. Imagine thinking 22 safer gear combinations are better than 11.
Just problem solver of a non issue they trying to sell you .At less than 300 gram difference and way more flexibility with 2x it MAKES NO SENSE to go 1x. Majority of group set weight is at the lever as well. And u need that left control for the brakes regardless you save total of one chain ring and front derailleur plus some cables of weight .
I feel like the 1x changing the world is wishful thinking. To go the same range you’re basically moving weight from the front rings to the cassette and dropping the weight of a fd and shift cable…negligible. If weight is the goal spend $$$ on a cassette and call it a day
Been saying this for years. Love my 2x mountain bike, about to buy a 2x gravel bike.
You probly aren't a mechanic then lol. Frame manufacturers and parts manufacturers communication sucks something awful. Most people just get the end result of a what is sometimes a nightmare level of work. Also most riders don't know how to shift correctly to utilize all the gears of a 2x front so it's just wasted weight and cost of parts.
The most important reason why I watch this channel is cz RoJ has such first-world problems that mere mortals can only dream of. Hint: M the mere mortal. My bicycle is cheaper than the chainrings he uses. :D
Getting out and riding is what matters. Do not let any slight noise bother you. That is what can happen when you have expensive bikes you get too annoyed when it is not working perfectly. When you have a cheap bike, it is fun, you can forgive its small issues and focus on how much fun can be so cheap. Enjoy. PS. it does not bother me if my bike gets a scratch at all. I just laugh it off. Focus on the adventure, not the speed or other stuff!
@@andrewnorris5415oil and grease can fix lots of problems.
I know I've said this before but I freaking love this channel. Killer production, good content, and the pod racer scene at the end is just fun. Good on you, man. Let me know when the channel gets big enough to have a "members" section
Cheers mate! I’ve had the member functionality for a long time, but I have nothing extra to offer so I won’t enable it :) monetary support is not the reason I make videos, if you like the content that’s more than I can ever ask for 🙌
Lol Pod racer scene. I thought the same thing.
This is why some of us end up with rooms full of bike parts!
Maaaannnn😭😭
I sell with good discount on a local website and on FB Marketplace. Key is to get good pictures and a right price.
Man, i spend almost a month, trying figure out whats that f**** noise. I brought a roadbike secondhand with that sound, now i will try the same thing as you, it’s a old 105 8speed with STI shifters. Thanks a lot!
You’re taste in the music has to be one of the most overlooked things you bring to your videos. Love the quality. Keep up the hard work 👌
Your* taste (you're = you are)
After seeing the title I had to double check which channel this was!
Fear not, the 1x will live on… on another bike :)
You only suffer on the first scratch! Following ones won't hurt as much :)
I hacked the system and bought a bike that already has scratches
No, they all hurt. It's the eventual death of a thousand cuts.
I see you reppin' that L39ION with the t-shirt 👌🏽
🦁
You can really fixate on small creaks and sounds during long ascents, so I totally get this. In the end it’s all about making your ride as enjoyable as possible 👍🏻
Couldn’t have said it better myself, wish I said it in the video 😅
I've learned to love headphones blasting tunes. Ignorance can be bliss.
257gr! OUTCH! ;)
Silence is priceless, squeaks, rattles and creaks begone!
Basically the content of this channel is based on compulsive strive for perfectionism … I do really enjoy it 😛
All roads eventually lead to single speed.
I think one other factor to consider in the noise discussion is that with 1X the chain ring is in the center of the cassette (or is supposed to be, if the chainline allows for it). With 2X you have the chain rings offset, so the angle between the largest cogs and the smallest chain ring is less. But I have no personal experience with this, so I'm just speculating. I also like 2X over 1X because you can always just shift the chain rings when you want to stand up for a while and then shift down when you are sitting or at a stop light. Now what is the next project....🤨
third? Nice T-shirt.
That was a dope descent clip!!
Legion?👀
You forgot to subtract the (micro)grams of paint you lost with the scratches on the bottom bracket. As you say, there is always a silver lining (or carbon black lining, in this case).
Thanks for the enjoyable video - and the great closing sequence!
I fixed my chain noise with a 1x GRX using a 40 by 11x42 drive by going longer on the chain than I usually do. It's been great.
Are you saying you have added two links to your normal length? Thanks.
That descent was killer, especially with that groovy soundtrack. I'd love to see your camera setup for that.
It’s just a GoPro hero 9 with the max lens mod, GoPro handlebar mount hanging from the handlebar. 👍
@@ridesofjapan I was praying for those fingers to pull the brakes at one point.
@@ridesofjapan The GoPro9 is a gamechanger. It makes me look way better than I am. LOL
Was about to ask the same question... where was the camera mounted cause it's dead center. Was thinking if it's under the computer mount but it's not! Great vid!
I had the same experience with my cyclocross bike when attempted to go 1X. I did not like that grumbling noise and feel. I am back to the 2X and happy again.
Man, adding weight and scratching that paint - I can feel your pain. But it‘s so cool you are giving us these heads-up. And a killer production as always. 👍
I have 1x12 on my new MTB, the chain noise in the climbing gear is irritating at the least. I feel your pain.
That fixed height front derailleur mount is an issue on many bikes - including ones that are spec'd with 46 chainrings. I had / have a Salsa Warbird and a Rodeo Labs Trail Donkey that are supposed to work with a 46t - I asked specifically - but the mount is positioned on the bike for 50t - 54t. Perfect for installing cranks on an adventure / gravel bike. A good reason to get a frame with a clamp-on derailleur... I did manage to get the shifting to work without chain drops, even though the derailleur was 6 - 7 mm above the chainring.
I faced the same problem with the front derailleur height when I switched to Rotor 46/30 sub-compact rings. Couldn't get my Ultegra Di2 derailleur low enough until I discovered the Sugino MT-OX adapter. Now everything is working as expected, with zero chain drops in 9+ months. Try it!
There's also the WickWërks Fit Link Braze-On Adapter (and maybe others).
FSA Front Derailleur Adapter is another one.
Love the descent portion, but the pavement with grooves to drain water was scary. I am thinking those sections of pavement would give you a little less traction. Thanks for your great video as always.
Descent part put me into shiver every time car appeared, like "what I'm doing in opposite lane?".
Not sure I'd survive first week on LHD roads.
Yes, same here. I have seen several motorcycle accidents because of them and hate them with a passion. There is no way I’d motor through them like RoJ did. I also usually slow down for the red/yellow stripes, because of the traction. But that’s probably why I don’t have any downhill KOMs ;-)
hahahahaha...........in the pursuit of less noise. I like it.
Some of the best production quality on YT! That descent was awesome. Start looking for the DA cassette, I just grabbed one on the used market for $70, saved 50g. I can live with that!
Waiting for the R9200 me thinks...
I've been going through a similar exercise on my road 1x but my chainstay is 418mm so seems just about okay. My biggest offender was a 3T overdrive cassette... swapped out for a Sram XG1190 and the difference is night and day. So much quieter and smoother :)
Meanwhile I too did a 1x conversion on my Caad. 46 x 11-28 though, because well.. flatlands. And the AbsoluteBlack chainrigs are indeed nice and quiet.
I was wondering if a bigger chainring and a smaller cassette would be quieter, not really the terrain here for me to try though.
Hey kuba, thanks for the insight! Im running 1x 40t grx with ultegra 11-30 cassette, and was thinking to upgrade to a bigger size chainring. Able to share why running a larger chainring would lead to a quieter ride? Whats the mechanics behind it?
@@nigelong8343 wondering the same thing thinking of running 48 and 11-36 casstre
@@Yes-sc1pb hey mate was reading thru the comments and saw one that said stone chainrings are worth a shot as well. Price is pretty reasonable on aliexpress, almost half the price of wolftooth on amazon (im in singapore) you might want to check it out. Am awaiting to pull the trigger on either a 42t or 44t, hope someone would enlighten me on why going with a bigger chainring would help with the noise.
@@nigelong8343 ahh yea saw them on AliExpress too, btw hello there fellow Singaporean 😂
I bet it feels like adding a dumbbell to your bike XD
Love seeing your thought process and all the twists and turns to arrive at current setup. I have had similar bike build issues and its sadly comforting to see I'm not alone. The video commentary and footnotes are super entertaining. Dont ever change.
Always a silver lining, spending more cash on your bike 🤣
That made me laugh 😅
Great video as usual! This noise problem is weird anyway: I've used 1x (42t and 11-36) with my old bike (410mm chain stay) and the new one (415mm chain stay) and I've never experienced terrible noises when the chain was at the 2 ends of the cassette...maybe only when the real derailleur wasn't spot on it was a little annoying but it was something manageable...anyway I was way more annoyed by the front derailleur continuously rubbing before my 1x conversion.
Have you tried with the other rear derailleur by any chance?
Here I am, sitting in just about the flattest country in the world, eyeing those Japan mountains with incredible envy 😍
Florida isnt a country. 😉
I had similar issues moving to sub-compact. Merida even told me that a 46-30 won't be possible to install. But now I have a 46-30 oval (at the max diameter is like a 48 so the derailleur does not need to go too low). I installed some FD spacers, although not for taken the derailleur down, but backwards and also changing the angle. I did installed a chain deflector for my peace of mind. No complaints about FD shifting. As smooth as with the original 105 50-34, if not better.
Thanks for the advice, I will try it the FD adaptors if further adjusting won't help. Just last week I tried the absoluteBLACK 46/30 and experienced chain drops for the first time. Even after curing that, theory on the stand and riding muddy gravel in undulating terrain is quite a difference. I guess I'll come around these issues eventually.
@@nikveldkamp8630 For oval rings, an adaptor that can push the derailleur backwards and that can also move the angle slightly counterclockwise (not sure if that would decrease or increase the angle XD) does seem to increase shifting performance. Although don't ask me why.
Where I live, tarmac is pretty smooth and it would be actually really hard to find gravel roads longer than, I don't know, 1 km. This helps with shifting. But I think that a chain deflector (or catcher) is a no brainer. With the FD, that area is already cluttered anyway, and I didn't want to risk the carbon. I just checked, and mine is like new. I guess it didn't have the chance to do anything, yet.
If you're using Shimano FD and the derailleur support screw will fall outside of the braze-on plate, be sure to stick a support plate in the frame. Shimano reference: Y2C098030
@@Membrillo81 thanks for the details. I'm lucky - fd with band clamp, so tons of room to move it, but not backwards, hence looking for the mentioned adapter plates. Secondly, no chaindrop to the inside until now. Thirdly no carbon frame, rugged old aluminium (maybe not as sustainable as steel, yet next best thing, as its 20 years old.
@@Membrillo81 or not so lucky?! Thinking about it, I may have to swap for a braze-on fd plus band clamp adapter to fit in the plates to move it backwsrds. Will try adjusting the fd a LOT more before doing that...😅
@@nikveldkamp8630 Yeah, I am not sure if there are any spacers for clamp type derailleurs. The ones I know are for braze-on.
I was riding a 10 years old alloy MTB until this year, when I bought my first carbon frame bike. It has to last, because as you said, it is not the most sustainable material.
Omg that decent clip is bliss! I miss cycling in Japan. Thank you for sharing :-)
You my well have changed, nay blown some minds with this episode……..love that you share your facepalm moments with us.
I was about to start my hunt for a 1x crank for my Emonda.
You saved me a lot of time, disappointment and money.
Thank you!!!!
I see you have Shimano hub, but just hypothetically -- assuming you buy a rear wheel with XDR driver body -- would you be happy with SRAM force Etap 1x12 ASX?
cassette starts with 10t, so you can shrink the chainring by 10% and have 10-36 at the back.
I watch your 2019 one-by video where you stated that big gaps in the cassette aren't an issue, so you cant' use this excuse anymore :)
And ... you can ditch all those wires too and that banana-size battery.
AXS is heavy! ;)
If you don’t want a noisy drivetrain don’t buy Sram
I rode 1x for 2 years. Definitely liked the simplicity but got kind of bored spinning out going down hills. Felt like I wasn’t having as much fun.
Strange! I have a 1x set up with 405mm chainstays, Shimano chain and cassette and an Absolute Black chainring and it’s virtually silent.
Lucky bastard! 😜
What chainring and cassette size are you running?
Yeah, what’s the rest of your setup?
@@freebird61885 thinking of going 1x too perhaps with bigger chain rings and smaller cassette it won't make as much noise
@@Yes-sc1pb 46 tooth chainring, 11-46 cassette.
I recently changed to Garbaruk chainrings as I "needed" the anodized color they provide, and indeed those teeth make it sound hak hak hak hak hak, in my setup it's only on the fast gears though. I've not yet decided if I'm going to get irritated about it or not. Maybe I'll try a less stiff chain to make it a bit less apparent, a great tip from this video. I use a 44, which is overkill size for my riding and power, but gives a straight chainline for the gears I use the most, otherwise I'd use a 40.
I recently switched to Smoove Lube and so far am quite impressed, helps run a quiet drive train (imo). Doesn't get too dirty, easy to clean off using the Smoove Prep and reapply (well a bit of extra faff as I heat it in a cup of boiling water before applying).
Wonder if oval Chainring would help too. Look awfull tho. 😀
Just have to say the quality and detail of your videos are on point and just get even better with time. Much respect, you got another subscriber!
The adventure of building your own bike up with sweet parts is so educational, thanks for taking us along on your journey Tobias. Excited to see what parts you bolt to the THM cranks. Please give me a heads up on the badass lion t-shirt you're wearing, I have to have one. Loved the jazzy ride at the end too.
L39ION of LA
Cheers!
@@ridesofjapan Thank you, Sir. Not only a cool logo but happy to support a bunch of fast guys and girls going places with their bikes
All of those 1x chainrings have the same problem. If you want to make them quiet you need to file off the trailing edge on an angle of each tooth. Take a look at sram xsync chains. The noise comes from the teeth hanging on to the chain at the bottom.
Check out Stone brand chainrings on aliexpress, the quality is really good and they come with the teeth angled like xsync.
Cycling is = to many cool things. And one of them is feeling the freedom to cycle as you like, when you like, and how you like. I'm old school and learned that when riding the angle of the chain it should not be too angled. As the wear on chain, chain rings, and cassette is much more noticeable. But for those who love and use the 1×
Great for them! But no one should be looked down on for using it, or someone using a 2×!! The same goes for rim brakes or disc brakes and going tubeless or not, and lastly Di2 or mechanical gears... The important thing is to get on the damn bike and ride!!
Hell, and use what ever component blows your skirt up use it !! And that's that!
This channel is an excellent example of using what ever "HE" thinks is proper and best for his style of riding. He's totally honest and straight forward with his OCD and his content is tops! Much respect goes out to folks like him.
❓ Have you ever been affected in some way by the hype in the cycling industry? I for one have!
Example; you bike is doing just great, it rides beautifully, absolutely a gem. One day you see hype on a particular product and many saying it's the best... You decide to change something on your bike, like the seat, or a longer slammed goose neck/stem (like the pros) and think "yes!!! This will add more bling to my wonderful bike, right?! Wrong!!! You immediately notice that now your back hurts and your arse doesn't like to seat, and or the forced position because of getting a longer slammed stem!! Etc etc ...
If you make a change to better your riding "DO IT"!! But unnecessary changes without investigating 1st. can ruin everything...
Safe riding to all
Preach on brother 👌
... too* many
Love the vid. Shimano Di2 is great and I do use it for performance but for my “just riding” bike I use Campagnolo 11sp mechanical with hydraulic discs. Quiet and effective, light and shifts really sweetly.
Hah, trying to get my head around that my inspiration to go x1 from x2 is going in the reverse direction 🧐
Ah well, it’s not exactly been a rapid transition for me…eight month wait for new GRX levers is nearly over allegedly so my Open U.P. may see some gravelly track in 2021 after all 😜. Just a pity the warrantee claim on my Domane frame isn’t going anywhere fast so the fancy paint job I’ve booked (🤔 where’d I get that idea….) is stuck in the mud and double pity that last weekend I detonated a small explosion that destroyed the hanger, derailleur and chain on my Madone. I never realised I needed x4 bikes until now 🤣. My LBW has come to the rescue tho’ and I’m getting a loaner Cervello, grx, x1 with 650b wheels so least I’ll know what the Open may feel like…eventually.
Absolutely ❤️ RoJ. Best channel here for my £ (if I had any left 😬)
I can't shake the nagging feeling that you really pushed the speed limit on that descend. ;)
Can not confirm or deny
...and Japan uses km/h, not mph...
We'd love to see you out in Nagano for a ride sometime! Just up the road from Saitama.
you can lower the front mech with a wickwerks fit link
I tried that! the front d hit the seat tube! The seat tube flared out down near the bottom bracket, and the front d hit the inside of my crank arm. I still like bikes that do not have a front d hanger. You need a round seat tube.
just about spit my coffee out, love your math skills. Glad to see we are ALL the same about our love of the sport. This episode is me in a nutshell for just about every aspect parts related. ride on
Props for the direction of this change. For me, the only 1x option would probably be Classified hub/wheel but to my gravel bike with longer chainstays.
Love your videos!
Nice video... For some reason I thought you had an Open UP bike too, but I haven't seen that in a while now...
Thank for this, I had the same problem with a 1x set on my ritchey road logic and was sure it was my lack of setup skills.
I never thought that 30 kph would look so enjoying. ;)
Doesn’t like the chain noise but has an angry wasp rear hub and a squeaky mouse FD.
My GRX 810 group is nearly 2 years old and doesn’t make half the noise.
I have GRX 810 on my FX4 Sport Carbon and it is far quieter than my buddy who has a 2x (Shimano 105).
Same here mines so quiet, but I maintain and properly set my front mech. Makes a huge difference.
I love the sound of a clean drivetrain, that light clickety click is heaven
FSA has an adapter for your braze on mount that allows you to use subcompact chainrings. I recently changed the gears on my road bike from 52/36 to 46/30. I run DA mechanical and no drawback in shifting. One additional thing to note is that you may need a backing plate to adjust your front derailleur screw.
I'll go 2x anytime no headaches. 1x is like a Motorboat sound.
Why would you get more headaches with 1x?
Plural of tooth is teeth. Right on!
duuuuuude the only way to do if on short chainstays is to use a 9-32 or 9-36 cassette and a 40t chainring and boom lighter cassette, lighter chain, lighter chainring and quiet… you went back 2x ewww shame on you! ;) 40/9 is = 53/11 so you could even go 38t front
Thanks for making this video! I've always been curious about 1x setups. I live in a really flat area (GTA, Ontario, Canada), so I rarely ever use the smaller chainring on my 52/36 crankset, and I only have an 11-25 cassette at the back! Sure, there are hills that I can't climb up unless I shift to the smaller chainring, but I encounter those maybe once every week or so; certainly not on my usual rides. It'd be interesting to do a 1x with a 50 tooth chainring and an 11-25 cassette.
Brantford, ON. I've built 1x11
42t front and 11t-40t back sram rival. Works pretty good. My wife has the same setup but 11-42 back. Her setup isn't as smooth as mine. Maybe shorter chain stay like he mentioned in this video.
Love your vids 👌, and you finally understood that two-by is still better 😉
... finally*
@@einundsiebenziger5488of course 😉
I ride Sram Force 12 speed 1x. In the front a 48 ring and in the back a 10-36 with 415mm chainstays. No problem no noise.
Channelling the Safa at the end there - I'd watch more gopro footage from you!
I have a 10 speed two bi set up with a rear 11/46 cassette. The front chain rings are 42 and 33 (33 was the smaller chain ring I could get for my crank arm set up). It took 5 different front derailleur to find one that worked, as I hit the problem of not being able to lower the derailleur enough to the right high above the largest chain ring. In the end I bought a shimano GRX FD-RX400. This works and although the gap between the chain ring and derailleur is technically to large, it shifts ok, granted it’s probably not up to your high standards (ROJ), but I have been using it for some months and even taken it bike packing with a loaded bike. The rear derailleur is a shimano GRX 10 speed with a road DM goat link so I can use the 11/46 cassette, it’s all cable, no Di2 yet.
The roads of Japan are just so epic!
Finally the video is here 🙏🏼
It looks like your B screw adjustment could be a one or two threads longer which would quiet things down a bit by the cassette. Also, If you loosen the screw about a half turn for the lower pulley wheel on the derailleur things get quieter at the bottom of the cage as it gives a couple degrees to the chain angle coming off the pulley wheel, while not effecting the shifting at all (which is what the upper pulley wheel is for). Easton chainrings are the quietest for me.
I cant stand the sound of the 1x on my MTB. The effects of which are obvious on my pulley teeth and chain ring. I live in foothills so I do not need a 50+ cassette or 12 gears. My preferred set up (for cost, performance, sound and range) is an 11-42 XT cassette, chain and a Wolftooth 36 oval ring. There are no more 2x options for the bike frame I own, nor would I want to go back to a front deraillure.
Music choice for the descent at the end … just 👌 perfect
I will did this kind of conversion because I dont have the choice... My front derailller cable failed and in my propel, internal cabling is a f*****g non sense! Long story short the cable had a coating and this coating clug the gain and now I am waiting for a b.o. giant piece of garbage internal cabling guide and gain $!?+6$+$#. I was all fine with that until I broke my MTB. I am now on my plan c which is not the last by the way. N+1 is a must for a 77 kg puncher like me. That said I will look at many of your video, Ibdidnt watch something like a year and a half. Keep it up man.
Interesting video. Thanks for sharing it! When we ride on the green way with our silent 3x7 comfort bikes I'm always amazed by the high level of noise that come from all the more modern and racy bikes we see out there. On rare occasion, I ride at the same pace as these other bikes so I don;t think it is because they are putting more pressure on the drive train than I am. Except for a few places where I would prefer to sit and spin rather than stand and mash I stay on the middle ring which is quiet on all 7 cogs. I'm only used the big ring to see if it works and what it feels like so it is basically a bash guard for the useful rings.
I feel you, esp. on the chaindropping part ( not due to my old frame but for the safety of the ride)! As the 110 bcd leaves no other option if going subcompact, I had to opt for oval, too. But the ride experience is worth it, esp. spinning uphill on gravel. I will try FD adaptors if further adjusting won't help. Just last week I tried curiously the absoluteBLACK 46/30 ovals and experienced chain drops for the first time. Even after curing that (angling the FD inwards), shifting theory on the stand and riding muddy gravel in undulating terrain is quite a difference. Still have to work out some kinks, e.g. shifting onto the 46 under load, noisy while on the smaller cogs. I'm less obsessed with the noise in itself but with the thought of abrasion, component wear and mostly friction - wasting some of of my precious few watts I have to spare.
No issues with the easy gears, though, even cross-chaining on the big (less smaller? ;) ring is fine - that's 46/42. Cross-chaining on the small 30T to the smaller third of the cassette is noisy, not so counter-intuitive somehow as the company says that their subcompact rings move the chainline 2.5 mm inwards, yet there was ample space between chain and the fd shifting plates - on the stand, at least... Well, we live to learn, right?
The extra 300 something grams of the 2x is nothing compared to the watts lost from the inefficiency of the 1x.
Have you tried 12 speed xtr chain? I have garbaruk 40t 1x front ring in my SS EVO 2gen, 11-34 ultegra cassette, and 12 speed xtr chain; there is some noise but nowhere near as loud as in your video
L39ION JAPAN
I have complete SRAM NX drivetrain in my rockrider XC 100 and this isn't noisy at all, if it's greased properly. I hope that in future there will be belts instead of chains and gearboxes instead of derailleurs. Why? cause casettes are mud lovers and dothing can change it.
Stay away from Shimano if you want low noise. Try using sram eagle or sram road 12 speed rd and cassette. The noise between shimano and sram is day and night. Agree with absolute black chainring for quietness.
Your cinematic skills are just phenomenal, not this Video in particular but your channel in total :)
On the topic I finally have somebody to report the same noise that I was experiencing. Though was never sure what exactly it was. As it only happens occasionally on my Trek Checkpoint with 1x grx.
I was struggling with noise on my 1x 11 setup. Solved it by changing the derailleur pulleys back to plastic(pom) getting a 12 speed ybn chain and realigning the derailleur hanger.
I learned this the hard way from my other bike which I was struggling with the gearshifts.
I bought new shifters changed shifter cables, swapped in a derailleur only to realise the hanger was misaligned causing a loud drivetrain and inconsistent shifts.
And now it's as quiet as the 2x setup the bike originally came with.
I like the fact I can shift gears in a sequence. I don't need to match front and rear combinations. I use my 1x12 like a motorcycle, just bump gears up and down
my chainstay is 405... and my 1x is very quiet. 9-44 cassette with sram 42t up front....????
This sounds like it’s been an effort spanning a few weeks. Glad you’ve got something that works until the announcement. 👌🚵🏼♂️
It been months 😅
Great video as always! (You have a typo in the scene title things, I think: you accidentally (I believe) titled the pod-racing clip "BOUNS" instead of "BONUS")
Cheers! Will fix that.
My little hint at dyslexia is not joke ;)
@@ridesofjapan Also have a look at the beginning of the video. You said (and wrote) "summery" but it's "summary".
You see, typos in videos is things I can’t change once they are online :)
… and I’ve given up a on making videos without typos, it’s my thing now 😜
I’m a professional bike mechanic and I constantly learn new compatibility for new tech from your trial and error process. I’m running 1x on my emonda almost identical to yours in color and set up. But I’m running a 46 tooth wolf tooth ring. Been thinking about changing back but keeping the grx as my rear derailleur running 50x34 and 11-40.
50x34 with 11-40 is interesting idea, the question I would worry about there is if the GRX can take up that much chain slack or not (I have no idea myself)
Cheers!
Hi, I want to visit Japan next Year and want to getting to now country, people and of course riding a bike there! Do you have any recommendations for me? I love food! and bikes! ;)
"That noise..." Recall, you got me on to the Garburuk chain ring for flattop chains. I run the aero 1x chain ring, and in extreme angles, its so loud, that it sounds like a broken bike. I have tried extra lube, still loud. I didn't think about the stay length!! I have an Allez sprint, and chain stay is around 400mm....that doesn't help. I did full analysis yesterday on converting to 2x and was sitting on the fence. You might be right....I may have to go back to 2X. (Ugh)
@rides of japan , do you know of any system that is DIrect-mount 3-Bolt spider that can take oval chain rings for SRAM AXS Flattop chains? Rotor has it, and it would mean I will need to ditch the Praxis carbon cranks I have. Curious?
@@chiefrocker12 cane creek has their ee wings cranks. if ya want to sell your kidney for them
With all the stocks globally running low, was able to find Rotor Oval Chain rings & Crank (Aldhu) 2x (pretty awesome modular system) that would be able to support the SRAM AXS flat top chains. Installed and tested. Its pretty good, however, chain slipping does happen up front regularly...oval chain rings do not itself to smooth shifting. So far the benefits outweigh the Chain drops, so putting up with it.
1x10 is the best . if you have chicken legs even 3x12 wont be enough in my opinion . i could show how quiet my drivetrain works even if it is dirty you would be surprised
this front derailleur sound... You really can call it ?
Yeah, eliminating constant chain rattle is one thing - but a screaming front mech?
@@gonnok sounds like a cat 😂
7:44 Garbaruk makes 12 speed 1x chainrings. At least my oval Garbaruk chainrings are.
They don’t make it for 130 bcd (at least last time I checked)
@@ridesofjapan Yeah not sure about that, but they do make it for Easton cinch cranks. I've got the aluminum Easton cranks.
@@brauljo yep, I have the 12speed ring for the Easton myself. Was never going to use the Easton 1x on the emonda a though :)
The level camera in the descent video is great and I've been thinking about a way to get my headlights to do the same thing. Do you mind sharing some details (or just a link) to the gimbal you're using to mount to the handlebar?
No gimbal, max lens mod on a hero 9, standard GoPro handlebar mount
Nah.... Just use a obnoxious DT ratchet (hub) and you will not hear anything from the chain anymore.
Hang on… you were already climbing mountains on a 42t, so a 53/39 does have an easier gear for climbing. 🤔
Is it because you use RD-RX815 (2x11 rear derailleur) instead of RX817 (1x11 RD)?