Gary please don't mind my questions at times, am just been curious. The video you put here is really fantastic, at list i know how the bell housings are changed. i cant thank you enough Gary. cheers
Hi Gary I have a Discovery 3 with a ZF6HP26 I have had a gearbox repayment but they gave me one from a 4.0 V6 petrol I have a TDV6 diesel we fitted the box with the old converter as the petrol is only 3 boult and had the old converter rebuilt and had the valve body completely serviced. but the car sits in idle on full load only way to drive is to take foot off break and wait till car is moving before any gas Can you tell me if there is something different with the 2 box's spent to much money now I can only think to rebuild the old box. Regards Peter.
Hello Gary, Any idea what could be causing my 722.6 to throw the p0730 code? Incorrect gear ratio. When I get to 4th it goes into limp mode and transmission fluid starts leaking. I’m not sure if it’s a seal or oil pump. I just replaced the torque converter as well. Any ideas ? Only 62k miles on my Jeep.
Hello , i have the 722.3 transmission with leaking by the from pum bushing. It could ve upgrade the bushing system ir only replace it for a new one. Or the pump it's replacesable for other more new one version
sorry I want to ask about the zf 6hp28 on the range rover vehicle that I am working on, this car shakes at a speed of 40km feels one body, after I analyze it turns out that from the transmission mechanic, usually what components are hit
I only feel at a speed of about 40 km, if more than that the shakes are gone, I think the transfer case was earlier, after I changed the transfer case it was still the same, then I borrowed another transmission and the vibration was gone, sir, is there a connection with canvasses / bushing / seal
I had a 2012 GL Bluetec with 60,000 miles. Transmission was leaking from the bellhousing (not much but constantly), it was working great. Took it off by myself 4 freaking times, replaced the front seal, pump seal, rebuilt the convertor. Took the pump at 2 specialty shops and they all confirmed it looked great, no scoring, no premature wear, no reason to replace it. Still leaked, it drove me crazy and sold it at a loss. What could have been? I suspect the pump but why did it check all the boxes ok? It was the bearing style. The bellhousing pump mating surface was perfect.
@@GaryFerraro Absolutely, I was even watching it in real time, very slow drip, you could see the trail when taking it out. Checked everything, lines, all...vent? Initially I also thought it was the rear main seal of the engine but no, it was the blue/green transmission fluid.
@@maximusfuscus Vent is on top, right where the bellhousing bolts onto the main case. In the front you have the front seal, pump o-ring and converter, i was thinking pump bushing but you said it was a bearing, unless the bellhousing has a small crack causing the leak
@@GaryFerraro - I remember it now. No, it wasn’t the vent, checked for cracks and all. Must have been the pump but just couldn’t understand how. Anyway, it’s long gone…
I've got 722.9 in my 2013 c250 and I know for fact that whirring or whining noise as I accelerate is coming from the transmission and I have zero leak. I neglected the oil&filter change until 60k and that maybe what caused it. It's at 70k and everything seems normal except for the noise. It's my first transmission job. Should I change torque and front bushing and water pump all together?
@@GaryFerraro I just went out for test drive to see and it does not. It only makes whirring noise when I put my foot on gas paddle. From zero mile, I put on gas(whrring) to reach 20 mph and let go( no noise). And more paddle( noise) to reach 40 and let go( no noise) and so on. Only thing is, after 65 mph or so, if I let go of the paddle, I feel this vibration like feeling when you do an engine brake.
Great video, Gary! I’m in similar situation needing to source torque converter, trans pump, and bell housing. I see from your video Transtar (Transcend) supplies recon torque converters. I’m having difficulty finding the pump and the bell housing. Do you have any leads/suppliers? Thanks in advance!
Gary I don’t know yet, we haven’t pulled the Transmission yet, we already tested for the leak using an ATF Fill Adapter and determined the leak is coming from inside the pan, we have to pull the whole unit to get at the pump but know the pump is leaking, also there are gold flecks from the torque converter in the pan we used, so we know the torque converter is bad. I’m assuming the pump is stock from the W164 series, it’s a 2006 ML 500 5.0L with the 722.9 7G-Tronic Transmission using the red fluid
@@skockets If it's leaking from the front, chances are you have a bushing and not a bearing, if it is a bushing, should be able to help you with that, bellhousing i would need the number off of the bellhousing
Thanks Gary, good to hear. I guess we’ll need to pull the transmission first to confirm bushing/bearing on pump. Unfortunate we need to take apart the transmission just to get to the pump. Also unfortunate the trans fluid was blackish when we did our test with the valvoline red. Suspect that prior owner used wrong trans fluid which prob helped cause these problems, I guess the silver lining is that car went into limp mode before (too) much damage was done. Will keep you posted. Thanks again!
Interesting video. I'm thinking of rebuilding my 722.9 due to a clutch concern (the conductor plate went at one point and the clutches got burned up a bit I'm sure). It is otherwise well functioning other than a 3-2 coast down clunk (either dropping to 3rd or 2nd cant recall which). This appeared after the new OE conductor plate was installed. Adapting the shifts with DAS does nothing for it. A comprehensive rebuild kit (pistons, steels, frictions etc) is pretty affordable. My concern would be finding out the pump is shot and needing a bell housing/converter which would add a lot to the cost. It's got 99,000 miles on it. What do you think my chances are that they would be OK? I saw you found a used bell housing?
great video Gary, just a quick one Gary please, how did you know bell housing needs to be changed, was there any crack on the bellhousing? and why didn't you change the bushing instead of the bell housing, is there any reason for that, thanks.
The bushing spun out out which made the pump body and gears unusable. The pump gears run against the bellhousing, so when the bushing spun out that made the gears dig into the bellhousing and if it is not perfect i change them so i don't loose pump pressure
I have an e350, year 2008 with 150k miles on it. I think I have the same problem as the transmission on this video. Do you think it will cost over $3,500 for the same job you did? With the mileage and age of my vehicle, I’m not sure if it’s worth spending so much.
I am very happy with your video, very quick to respond to my questions When operated manually sometimes the gear shift is normal, but when in position D' Gear 3 slips and all normal clutches look "defective clutch housing/aggressive pressure." is there a problem with the pump? Thank you
Hello I have a 2007 tundra ab60e transmission shifting hard in 3rd gear high throttle and no codes. I used a transgo shift kit. Any recommendations or suggestions. I enjoy your videos and any help would be appreciated thanks again Gerry!
Gary, I have a 2010 C63 with the 722.9, roughly 130k miles. I am getting a loud whirring sound while in drive. Sound follows vehicle speed. Change trams,is soon fluid about 10k miles ago. No cel, no leaks, occasional slips when cold but not when hot. A shop told me they think it’s the torque converter and or the pump itself is going bad. I am not sure. What were your thoughts? Thank you for the great video.
Thanks for any help. I checked pulleys, alternator, power steering pump and no sound. Location doesn’t seem to be coming from front. Fluids all topped off and fine.
In this case the bushing spun and damaged the converter hub, most of the time when the bushing spins out you have to change the converter. I use permatex on the seal so it does not leak
hello garry I'm from Indonesia, thank you for the video. I'm studying Mercedes matic and I consider you my teacher. I have many questions about Mercedes matic transmission. one of the questions 'if there is a very extreme gear shift when kickdown', where is the cause from? thank you
I’ve got the 722.6 and I think I damaged my front pump when removing a seized engine. I’ve got a brand new Torque Converter from Chrysler & when I spin it, it slightly gets tight in one spot but will continue to spin. I don’t think there should be ANY resistance and this made my engine slightly harder to turn over. I took it to a transmission sho and they told me nothing was wrong with it which is bullshit…. Hes thinks it’s fine because when you lift up on the converter to take the weight off of it, it will spin smoothly but even then, I can still feel a slight resistance It was shuddering & It’s giving my starter a hard time to start the engine. I initially thought it was my engine I rebuild, but I pulled it back off to find it rotates smooth. So I went to the transmission spun the converter and it would get stiff in one spot. For some reason. Nobody seems to think that’s an issue when it wasn’t doing this before. It’s causing a shudder which can’t be good. Something will get destroyed if I don’t figure it out. He only people I can trust are 100% absolutely wrong…
@@GaryFerraro Right. That’s what I’m thinking. If you hold its weight while you are turning it, it’ll spin freely without that bind but even then, I can still feel the very slightest of resistance where the bind was. None of that matters anyways because when I had it bolted to the engine, it was causing my crank to get harder to turn by 5 to 10 foot pounds wherever the bind point was. Disconnected from crank and engine spun free, so I know something wrong at this point. I’m thinking the pump is damaged, but wanted another opinion before spending that kind of money.
I’m gettin ready to do my pump. It’s a 722.6 & need to know if it is even necessary to remove the rear output shaft bolt & flange just to remove the bell housing and replace the pump & does the K2 have to come off with it? I know B1 is attached to the bell housing. But if I could just remove the bell housing & B1 by itself , replace the pump and just pop it back in place, I’d like to do just that.
Watched so many of your vids Gary and finally subscribed, sorry for waiting so long. Do you have an opinion on why these bushings fail? They are always well into age before we see them fail so it must not be due to insufficient clearance though my experience has been pretty much all V8 & V12 models
I see the pumps go bad, the bushings spin out usually because the converter comes apart and the conductor plates which is the TCM, have speed sensor failures, Once in a blue moon i will see a clutch pack fail. Thanks for subscribing
Another great video... quick question, I thought 722.9 was supposed to get the blue 134FE transmission fluid, if that is true could that be part of the problem?
The blue fluid trans has the oval dimples on the trans pan where the red fluid has round dimples. Somewhere in 2011 where they made the change in viscosity.
The owner spends aaalllllll that money to have the trans fixed and uses his "just changed filter" to go back in after clutch packs were toast and pump was smoked.....smh.
A guy that takes pride in his work in 2021. Awesome work!
Thank you
This is an amazingly well made tutorial, thank you so much for this
Thanks Peter
Amazing skills and knowledge hard earned thanking you.
Gary please don't mind my questions at times, am just been curious. The video you put here is really fantastic, at list i know how the bell housings are changed. i cant thank you enough Gary. cheers
welcome
Another great video
Thanks Joe
Hi Gary great job, keep up with the fine work you do, I am happy that you keep the banner up.
Thanks for watching
In case of changing only the oilpump... Do you need to take off more than the bellhousing?
Good Sunday morning to you Gary.
Thank you, you too
Busy Shop ... Good morning Gary 👍
Hi Carl, Good Morning
Very very good Video Thank you.
Hi Gary I have a Discovery 3 with a ZF6HP26 I have had a gearbox repayment but they gave me one from a 4.0 V6 petrol I have a TDV6 diesel we fitted the box with the old converter as the petrol is only 3 boult and had the old converter rebuilt and had the valve body completely serviced. but the car sits in idle on full load only way to drive is to take foot off break and wait till car is moving before any gas Can you tell me if there is something different with the 2 box's spent to much money now I can only think to rebuild the old box. Regards Peter.
Hello Gary,
Any idea what could be causing my 722.6 to throw the p0730 code? Incorrect gear ratio.
When I get to 4th it goes into limp mode and transmission fluid starts leaking. I’m not sure if it’s a seal or oil pump. I just replaced the torque converter as well. Any ideas ?
Only 62k miles on my Jeep.
I have a major leak coming out of the front of the transmission? How do i know exactly which seal failed?
There is only the front seal and pump o-ring, if it's leaking that bad, i would think front seal or bushing spun out
What was that blue product you used when putting pump back in ?
Great helpful video
that was probably transgel
Hello , i have the 722.3 transmission with leaking by the from pum bushing. It could ve upgrade the bushing system ir only replace it for a new one. Or the pump it's replacesable for other more new one version
Thanks a lot! Gary form Berlin
Wow Berlin, Greetings from New York
VERY GOOD you demostration 100%
Hi, please tell what is the function of rubber hose sitting on top of mercedes ml350 tramnsmission housing. it does not connect to anything.
That is a vent so the trans can breath
What causes slippage from 3rd gear to 4th gear? on a 7G Tronic transmission. Thank you
May have a bad K2 clutch pack
does this leak affect reverse gear?
It May if low on oil or low pump pressure would affect both forward and reverse
sorry I want to ask about the zf 6hp28 on the range rover vehicle that I am working on, this car shakes at a speed of 40km feels one body, after I analyze it turns out that from the transmission mechanic, usually what components are hit
can you tell me if any codes are present
No fault code mstr
@@abdilmalik9240 what do you feel, does it feel like a rough road or wash board effect? If you release the gas does it go away
I only feel at a speed of about 40 km, if more than that the shakes are gone, I think the transfer case was earlier, after I changed the transfer case it was still the same, then I borrowed another transmission and the vibration was gone, sir, is there a connection with canvasses / bushing / seal
Can i have your instagram sir
Great video. The torque to yield bolts. Are they only available through MB?
I believe so , Yes
I had a 2012 GL Bluetec with 60,000 miles. Transmission was leaking from the bellhousing (not much but constantly), it was working great. Took it off by myself 4 freaking times, replaced the front seal, pump seal, rebuilt the convertor. Took the pump at 2 specialty shops and they all confirmed it looked great, no scoring, no premature wear, no reason to replace it. Still leaked, it drove me crazy and sold it at a loss. What could have been? I suspect the pump but why did it check all the boxes ok? It was the bearing style. The bellhousing pump mating surface was perfect.
Sure it was leaking from there? May be leaking from another spot and going around to the bell Housing, Cooler lines looked ok, maybe coming from vent
@@GaryFerraro Absolutely, I was even watching it in real time, very slow drip, you could see the trail when taking it out. Checked everything, lines, all...vent? Initially I also thought it was the rear main seal of the engine but no, it was the blue/green transmission fluid.
@@maximusfuscus Vent is on top, right where the bellhousing bolts onto the main case. In the front you have the front seal, pump o-ring and converter, i was thinking pump bushing but you said it was a bearing, unless the bellhousing has a small crack causing the leak
@@GaryFerraro - I remember it now. No, it wasn’t the vent, checked for cracks and all. Must have been the pump but just couldn’t understand how. Anyway, it’s long gone…
Thanks 👍
Hey Gary where did you buy your parts , like the bell housing and pump?
Have a few hard part guys in the area, Where are you located?
what liquid do i use in the minute 37:16?
Permatex
I've got 722.9 in my 2013 c250 and I know for fact that whirring or whining noise as I accelerate is coming from the transmission and I have zero leak.
I neglected the oil&filter change until 60k and that maybe what caused it. It's at 70k and everything seems normal except for the noise.
It's my first transmission job. Should I change torque and front bushing and water pump all together?
Do you hear this noise in park and neuttal
@@GaryFerraro lightly but not hundred percent sure. I think I hear it but quite faint. Thank you for answering my question btw.
@@GaryFerraro I just went out for test drive to see and it does not. It only makes whirring noise when I put my foot on gas paddle. From zero mile, I put on gas(whrring) to reach 20 mph and let go( no noise). And more paddle( noise) to reach 40 and let go( no noise) and so on. Only thing is, after 65 mph or so, if I let go of the paddle, I feel this vibration like feeling when you do an engine brake.
Great video, Gary! I’m in similar situation needing to source torque converter, trans pump, and bell housing. I see from your video Transtar (Transcend) supplies recon torque converters. I’m having difficulty finding the pump and the bell housing. Do you have any leads/suppliers? Thanks in advance!
Does the pump have a bearing or bushing
Gary I don’t know yet, we haven’t pulled the Transmission yet, we already tested for the leak using an ATF Fill Adapter and determined the leak is coming from inside the pan, we have to pull the whole unit to get at the pump but know the pump is leaking, also there are gold flecks from the torque converter in the pan we used, so we know the torque converter is bad. I’m assuming the pump is stock from the W164 series, it’s a 2006 ML 500 5.0L with the 722.9 7G-Tronic Transmission using the red fluid
Also we’re guessing there’s a 50/50 chance on the Bell Housing, but we don’t know yet til we pull it all out
@@skockets If it's leaking from the front, chances are you have a bushing and not a bearing, if it is a bushing, should be able to help you with that, bellhousing i would need the number off of the bellhousing
Thanks Gary, good to hear. I guess we’ll need to pull the transmission first to confirm bushing/bearing on pump. Unfortunate we need to take apart the transmission just to get to the pump. Also unfortunate the trans fluid was blackish when we did our test with the valvoline red. Suspect that prior owner used wrong trans fluid which prob helped cause these problems, I guess the silver lining is that car went into limp mode before (too) much damage was done. Will keep you posted. Thanks again!
Interesting video. I'm thinking of rebuilding my 722.9 due to a clutch concern (the conductor plate went at one point and the clutches got burned up a bit I'm sure). It is otherwise well functioning other than a 3-2 coast down clunk (either dropping to 3rd or 2nd cant recall which). This appeared after the new OE conductor plate was installed. Adapting the shifts with DAS does nothing for it. A comprehensive rebuild kit (pistons, steels, frictions etc) is pretty affordable. My concern would be finding out the pump is shot and needing a bell housing/converter which would add a lot to the cost. It's got 99,000 miles on it. What do you think my chances are that they would be OK? I saw you found a used bell housing?
6th
great video Gary, just a quick one Gary please, how did you know bell housing needs to be changed, was there any crack on the bellhousing? and why didn't you change the bushing instead of the bell housing, is there any reason for that, thanks.
The bushing spun out out which made the pump body and gears unusable. The pump gears run against the bellhousing, so when the bushing spun out that made the gears dig into the bellhousing and if it is not perfect i change them so i don't loose pump pressure
@@GaryFerraro Wow, thank u so much Gary, u have indeed made my day. Cheers
@@jameschinonso2330 Thanks for watching
I have an e350, year 2008 with 150k miles on it. I think I have the same problem as the transmission on this video. Do you think it will cost over $3,500 for the same job you did? With the mileage and age of my vehicle, I’m not sure if it’s worth spending so much.
If they want to do an overhaul, it will cost more than 3500.00 This is the 7 speed Mercedes unit
I am very happy with your video, very quick to respond to my questions When operated manually sometimes the gear shift is normal, but when in position D' Gear 3 slips and all normal clutches look "defective clutch housing/aggressive pressure." is there a problem with the pump? Thank you
If there was a pump problem it would affect overall pressure, you wouldn't just have a problem in 3rd
Ok thank you so much
Hello I have a 2007 tundra ab60e transmission shifting hard in 3rd gear high throttle and no codes. I used a transgo shift kit. Any recommendations or suggestions. I enjoy your videos and any help would be appreciated thanks again Gerry!
what was original problem? is it flaring on the shift?
@@GaryFerraro no at the beginning it was a TCC code and tcc fail. I did a complete overhaul new clutches and new torque converter
@@JuanCastro-rc9dl Normal driving, it works ok?
@@GaryFerraro yes
@@GaryFerraro yes
Gary, I have a 2010 C63 with the 722.9, roughly 130k miles. I am getting a loud whirring sound while in drive. Sound follows vehicle speed. Change trams,is soon fluid about 10k miles ago. No cel, no leaks, occasional slips when cold but not when hot. A shop told me they think it’s the torque converter and or the pump itself is going bad. I am not sure. What were your thoughts? Thank you for the great video.
do you hear this noise in park and neutral?
@@GaryFerraro yes, sound is present in neutral and park. Also goes up when I increase rpm
Thanks for any help. I checked pulleys, alternator, power steering pump and no sound. Location doesn’t seem to be coming from front. Fluids all topped off and fine.
Great video! When changing oil pump you always have to change the torque converter as well? And what was the goo you did put on the seal? :) ty!
In this case the bushing spun and damaged the converter hub, most of the time when the bushing spins out you have to change the converter. I use permatex on the seal so it does not leak
@@GaryFerraro Thanks mate!
hello garry I'm from Indonesia, thank you for the video. I'm studying Mercedes matic and I consider you my teacher. I have many questions about Mercedes matic transmission. one of the questions 'if there is a very extreme gear shift when kickdown', where is the cause from? thank you
Can you tell me if any codes are present?
7G tronic 722.9 visually all clutches are good. but the gear shift is extreme. thank you
Diagnostic reault" 0894 the gear implausible or transmission is slipping
Excellent tutorial, but please do something about the video and audio quality 😅
I’ve got the 722.6 and I think I damaged my front pump when removing a seized engine. I’ve got a brand new Torque Converter from Chrysler & when I spin it, it slightly gets tight in one spot but will continue to spin. I don’t think there should be ANY resistance and this made my engine slightly harder to turn over. I took it to a transmission sho and they told me nothing was wrong with it which is bullshit…. Hes thinks it’s fine because when you lift up on the converter to take the weight off of it, it will spin smoothly but even then, I can still feel a slight resistance It was shuddering & It’s giving my starter a hard time to start the engine. I initially thought it was my engine I rebuild, but I pulled it back off to find it rotates smooth. So I went to the transmission spun the converter and it would get stiff in one spot. For some reason. Nobody seems to think that’s an issue when it wasn’t doing this before. It’s causing a shudder which can’t be good. Something will get destroyed if I don’t figure it out. He only people I can trust are 100% absolutely wrong…
When the converter is fully seated in the pump it should turn freely
@@GaryFerraro Right. That’s what I’m thinking. If you hold its weight while you are turning it, it’ll spin freely without that bind but even then, I can still feel the very slightest of resistance where the bind was. None of that matters anyways because when I had it bolted to the engine, it was causing my crank to get harder to turn by 5 to 10 foot pounds wherever the bind point was. Disconnected from crank and engine spun free, so I know something wrong at this point. I’m thinking the pump is damaged, but wanted another opinion before spending that kind of money.
I’m gettin ready to do my pump. It’s a 722.6 & need to know if it is even necessary to remove the rear output shaft bolt & flange just to remove the bell housing and replace the pump & does the K2 have to come off with it? I know B1 is attached to the bell housing. But if I could just remove the bell housing & B1 by itself , replace the pump and just pop it back in place, I’d like to do just that.
@@BWADaniel You will have to stack everything from the pump[ to the K2 clutch and drop all in at once
Watched so many of your vids Gary and finally subscribed, sorry for waiting so long. Do you have an opinion on why these bushings fail? They are always well into age before we see them fail so it must not be due to insufficient clearance though my experience has been pretty much all V8 & V12 models
I see the pumps go bad, the bushings spin out usually because the converter comes apart and the conductor plates which is the TCM, have speed sensor failures, Once in a blue moon i will see a clutch pack fail.
Thanks for subscribing
So what's your thought on the reliability of the 722.9 in comparison to the 722.6? is the 722.9 a more troublesome Transmission?
There not bad. I do more 722.6 than the other. I do mostly plates on the 722.9
Great video, Gary! Can you advise where to purchase the bell housing for these W164series ML models/722.9 trans? Thanks in advance
Another great video... quick question, I thought 722.9 was supposed to get the blue 134FE transmission fluid, if that is true could that be part of the problem?
7G Tronic Plus gets that fluid That trans came out 2010. This is a 2009. I did check it out and it takes the red fluid
@@GaryFerraro and that's why you're the man Gary!!!!
@@igotaction Thanks Joel
The blue fluid trans has the oval dimples on the trans pan where the red fluid has round dimples. Somewhere in 2011 where they made the change in viscosity.
👍👍👍
Hi, Teacher.
Hello.
@@GaryFerraro I watch Teacher's Video for all, It is Best lerning Media for me.
@@gmsworkshop3957 Thank you
The owner spends aaalllllll that money to have the trans fixed and uses his "just changed filter" to go back in after clutch packs were toast and pump was smoked.....smh.
very nice video, thank you so much ! want to talk about some tech with you, have email ?
gsferraro@yahoo.com