Me believing I was the "master" of my sewing project was the reason why I used to skip understitching. I now know that being a true master of a sewing project requires knowledge and insight... (Without those it's just plain ignorance) That's why your videos are so valuable. They empower me to be a better "master".
🤣 I know what you mean! I like to say, you can break the rules and sew off pattern, when you know and understand why the rules are there in the first place 😃
It was definitely a lightbulb moment for me when I discovered that I could mix and match things -- I like this bodice, but I want to put on that skirt, and it doesn't come with pockets so I'll grab that from something else...you definitely have to be careful to measure and make sure everything will fit together, but once you figure that out you can basically make whatever you want! 🙂
The first few sewing projects I did were without using any patterns, I followed some beginner level projects from UA-cam which included very simple (mostly rectangle) pattern pieces that I could simply measure on myself then cut. I found it really helpful to do this way since I learn better by watching someone else do it first, rather than trying to decipher written instructions, and it really helped me develop more of an intuition for construction. Then when I moved on to patterns I felt more confident in being able to understand them with the basic skill level already developed
When I first started sewing, using commercial patterns, I religiously followed all the instructions, because I believed thats what I had to do. Over time, I came to realise that not all the instructions made sense, or I could change the sewing order to suit my sewing style. Eg most patterns have sewing the zip as the last step, when the dress is fully assembled. However I find I get a better finish if I installl the zip before I complete the side seams, so that I am sewing on the flat and don't have the front of the dress getting in the way when I'm installing a back zipper. Treat the instructions as a guide only, and don't be afraid to do your own thing. Happy sewing.
I had my lightbulb momemt when my aunt, who went to fashion school, showed me her old school project bits. That was an entire suit case of fabric scraps where they were tested on just one skill, such as pin tucks, piped buttonholes, different styles of collars etc. Before that I had always just done my next garment and when I ran into something I didn't know how to do just muscled through somehow. Which is kind of silly in retrospect. Now, when I feel like sewing, I just get out this tome of an illustrated techniques book I have, grab some leftover fabric and start practicing another skill. Not only has my sewing itself improved by doing this, I now get more out of my actual garments as well, because when I look at a pattern now, I not only see what is there but what I could do with it as well and now I often make small changes to things like the shapes of collars or the way something is finished on the inside because I've practiced it before and I know it can work in this context. Made my sewing much more rewarding.
I did that with learning to do vented lined pleat in the back of a pencil skirt. I found a great simple video, only 10 minutes long, that talks you thru it...and each time, i still watch it and do it with the video bit by bit. Its just one skill in sewing i just can never remember, but i dont do it often and it is complex and mind bending. My next goal is fly zippers! Urgh!
@@paraboo8994 yes...they look simple..but ppl who dont know otherwise, know that if theyve ever tried to do it, when constructing it, they have to think inside out, back to front and reverse....im pretty good at 3D, but lined vented pleats take the cake! 18th C front fall pants were easier! LOL
@@Sky-fz7ku i have two, the bigger one is from a second hand book shop and in German from the 70s, so that might not work for you, but the other one is The Sewing Book by Alison Smith. That one I'd really recommend!
I haven't used my sewing machine in over a year, I just got caught up with life and was always too tired I guess. Last week I stumbled across your channel, and tonight I dusted my bernina off and found my pedal somewhere in the spare room. No idea what I'm going to start with, but thank you for helping me find my sew-jo again
I'm a retired community college instructor who has trained student teachers. Sewn all my life and ready to advance to the next level in my retirement. You are a great teacher. BTW; you had me at "Leaps and bounds."
I'm very new to sewing (I've made 6 garments!) and have had to look everything up as I go along. Once I actually did something different to what the pattern said and I felt really guilty - as though I'd done something wrong!! Haha! This video has definitely been a lightbulb moment for me too. Brilliant, thank you Evelyn. x
Aww, I felt that. I was the same way at first (sewing for 3 years now), scared to make any adjustments. Now, I go through the pattern and begin to look for what I would like to change. I actually look forward to making modifications now. It'll come to you pretty quickly 😉
So, patterns are just a guide. Wondrous advice! Thanks so much ... I've been slavishly adhering to patterns for decades, lacking the confidence to "make them my own ". Thank you Evelyn! 😀❤
Patterns (pronounced here pad-erns) definitely became starting points when entering the world of pattern sharing. That is pieces copied on newspaper, brown bags, wrapping paper,old sheets,pellon,etc and shared WITHOUT instructions! Some times a garment constructed by the pattern was lended as a guide. I entered this realm of sewing as an experienced sewist though I was slave to the provided guidesheet at least for construction. One memorable project was a lined child's hooded jacket with a separating zipper. The garment on lend, I believe, had NO exposed seams! There was a lot of mental making that came before its construction! It was a pattern I used numerous times although I don't think I ever figured out the hidden seams even with using different construction each jacket!
I suspect I have both benefitteed and also missed things by generally not using patterns I didn't make... Mostly my sewing (aside from mending) has been either "how can I copy this thing I like that fits me properly but is wearing out cause I wear it so much" or "what can I make with this limited amount of really nifty fabric?" I think I have made one skirt and one dress from actual storebought patterns so far in twentysome years of sewing. Thankfully my pandemic-induced foray into historical and vintage sewing has taught me some good things and gotten me into some good habits (using a thimble, felling seams, understitching), and am working on a few others (pressing seams, although to be fair, it's nearly pointless with flannel and I can do it with my hands on linen, but now that I'm working with more cotton, I'm realizing where I can get away without, and where I really should get the iron out). Things I have very little experience with: buttons (I still need my mom to sew them on so they'll stay), linings, plackets, zippers, and how to make trousers. And I think I need to find instructions for facings, I've just been faking it :P
So true! I don't like overlocked seams on fitted bodices for my daughter so I alternate bound seams, felling and French seams. I like learning the skills I need on my children's clothes because it's easier - and turns out my son really enjoys his button up shirt 😃 Ottobre sewing magazine has really nice instructions that always have a headline like "joining" or "placket" and you only read it if you need to. They also have nice free one page tutorials on their website for collars, plackets, zippers etc.....
Thank you for spreading the word! My mom was a seamstress in post WWII Europe and made patterns based on what people said they wanted. She couldn't afford to replace the fabric if she made a mistake, so she learned to be meticulous in making the patterns. I am still using the skirt and trousers pattern she made for me 20 years ago (with some sizing adjustments 😂). She taught me to evaluate commercial patterns to make sure the steps were in a logical order and switch it up if needed.
I think I began viewing patterns as a tool after I started cutting individual pieces in the pattern onto fabric and practice with that skill, i.e., facings. It helped me see how each piece is used to create the garment and I don’t start on the actual garment until I feel experienced enough with instructions for each piece. I hope that makes sense. Yes I thank you for your understitch video. Thank you thank you 🙏🏽
💡Now I completely understand what my mom was trying to explain to me the first time she took me pattern shopping. I was only twelve years old, so it’s taken many years!
It is a lot easier than you make it to be. I was the same way, but I needed to make toiletry bags for family for Christmas. I sewed my fist zippers on bags lol Bags are harder than clothes. As long as you use a zipper foot, and go slow, it will be fine. Try it, you will be proud of yourself.
Have you figured it out yet? One of the things that makes life much easier is putting the zip in before sewing any other seams. But a game changer for me was buying a zip a little longer than I needed then I could leave the zip closed, with the pull right at the top and out of the way of the zip foot and then there is none of that faffing around moving the pull when installing the zip.
I'm a fairly new stitchling and I'm sewing every day, it's addictive! I'm so grateful for all your advice and lessons, I really do appreciate you Evelyn, thank you ❤ I've made a few garments and I completely understand your advice in this video, I'm learning lots each time I make something and I'm definitely beginning to spot occasion for using my own knowledge and application of my new skills, I feel quite proud. 😊 I haven't got my grandma around anymore, but you are brilliant and key to my sewing journey. Thank you lovely lady 😘💋❤
I personally try to use patterns as is the first time I use them but look at them as a way to learn techniques as i sew. Then as I do them again or do something similar, I make modifications or apply new knowledge
This lightbulb just recently went off! I’ve been garment sewing since age 12. I never measured but made things straight out of the envelope. It was probably beginners luck but I made some quite sophisticated garments that fit well. Fast forward many years, I now take my measurements, make toilets, and proceed very carefully!
Yes! If your body fits the pattern out of the packet - its like winning lotto. For the rest of the 95% of the popoulation...we have to toile, toile and toile again! My body is SO outside the pattern framework - its only ever a starting point for me.
I absolutely LOVE that you acknowledge that there is more than one way to do things in sewing. I took a sewing class once where the instructor was teaching us to sew only one way....her way. If we attempted to do things any other way, we would be reprimanded. I quit that class and turned to You Tube because I wanted to take my sewing skills to the next level by learning all the various ways to construct a garment.
So, I am only starting, I am working on a summer dress at the moment, but I already am deviating from the pattern I have ^^ (I think that I think myself capable of this because I watched so many videos about sewing before, and techniques, and such). This dress have a facing but no lining, and because my fabric is sheer, I am lining it inthe bodice and top of the skirt. Also, I shortened the shoulder (it was easy because I only had to do it on the back piece, the front is gathered) and I made the sleeves puffier. And I want to sew the skirts with french seams, since my fabric is quite prone to fraying, even though the pattern tells me to finish the seams otherwise ^^
Great advice. Love your hair today ❤ Recently I saw a movie biography of ‘Halston’ and saw his signature dress pattern masterpiece in one piece - genius! What skill he had as well as changing fashion design in the 70’s
If you haven't gone off-pattern before and want to try but don't feel super confident about it, this is what I did for my first off-pattern project: Choose a pattern that has multiple views that are somewhat similar but have more than one small difference between them. (Mine was a Medieval-inspired shirt pattern [not remotely historically accurate, just a costume] that had slightly different necklines and sleeve finishes, and one view that added trim.) Then, choose one element from two or more views to put together on the same garment. (I picked the neckline from one view, the sleeve cuffs from another, and the trim placement of a third.) It's a way to go slightly off-pattern (make sure you know which pattern pieces you need and which steps of the directions to follow!) without going outside of the pattern instructions themselves.
I've missed so many videos lately! I must do a bit of binge watching to catch up! I've been busy recording my own vlogs, people like yourself motivated me to do it! Your videos are so helpful - thank you!
I was watching other vloggers before I found Evelyn, and also thought of doing it (except I don't like my own voice😉). But ever since I found Evelyn, I cannot deal with almost all the others. Her voice is so calming and motivating, the way she speaks and the grammar she uses reminds me of one of my best friends that is now living on another continent and whom I miss dearly. And then the bonus is that you actually learn very important things that make a great difference to how the garment ends up. I watched one video today on how not to stretch a neckline with a simple stitch and, about an hour later watched another vlogger adding elastic around a curve, without that stitch, and totally spoiling the neckline😮. I absolutely love and adore Evelyn, and am totally addicted to her videos. Rigjt now I am lying in ned, trying to fall asleep, bit still watching Evelyn❤❤ EDIT: I am already talking about a garment and not an outfit anymore😁
I learned to sew on a treadle sewing machine. As I got older and making new friends I did use paper patterns and even began to learn to alter the dress patterns to firt male crossdressers. It was fun. Love the video.
Thank you! I think I was always worried about doing it "wrong" and have only felt very slightly freed from that idea as I watched more and more sewing videos and vlogs. Thank you for the permission to do it how we feel is best! I'm excited to watch your videos on fitting because that is a skill I need to work on.
I do a lot of sewing and make my own patterns, and particularly for my daughter's dolls, I alter patterns a lot. That said, one of my hobbies is making up vintage patterns (adjusted for fit and sometimes changing order of steps where it it benefits process) I like to recreate the cover image, or get a sense of what the finished garment would look like at the time, and to me, this is a creative process in itself. So yes patterns are a tool, but recreating them exactly in the modern era, can also be a creative pursuit.
Im an "off pattern" gal. I am not sure I followed the patterns since high school - bar one gown I made 10 years ago, which was a vogue 1940's gown where you have a gathered curved S form on the bodice of the dress, and you fold the seam allowance under, lay onto the gathered length and top stitch over...a type of seam that cant be done the usual way. That was a historical way to make those specific type of dresses int the early 40's. I learned something new! LOL. But usually Im a "the pattern is the starting point person". But I do yearn back to the days when the patterns in the 1970's onwards (until more recently) when the sewing line was dotted on the pattern too. The commercial need to cram several sizes into one pattern has come at the cost of all more simpler patterns to use with whats what. The sew lines make it so much more simple to understand. I loved you could just look at a pattern and see what had to be done and when. Some even put construction order numbeirng on them!
My mum used to make her own clothes in the 1950's & 60's. She told me they used to use a needle and thread to make a couple of small stitches into the fabric where dots and other marks are on the pattern.
That's definitely the way my sewing is starting to evolve. For me, zippers were the first step. The instructions in commercial patterns never made much sense to me, so I just figured out a way to install them that works for me. I have also begun eschewing facings for bias binding when possible, because I always find facings to be really finicky. But count me as a convert to under stitching based on your video! I recently finished two dresses with lined bodices and tried your technique- mind blown. I'd really like to further explore fitting and adjustments; I'm getting older and I'm somewhat fuller figured so things like full belly adjustments could be really useful. But I must admit I'm very intimidated by them; they seem really tricky.
Check out Glenda Sparling and Sure Fit Designs. Her system, although not cheap, has made it possible for me to make trousers that fit me properly without tearing my hair out trying to make adjustments to a commercial pattern that insisted I shouldn't grade between sizes, etc. I've now got the trouser kit and the dress kit (which incorporated bodices, blouses and skirts) and have finally made a bodice that actually fits my peculiar shape in a way that nothing 'fitted' has ever done in nearly 40 years. As I say, not cheap, but I reckon in the long run I'll save myself a small fortune on buying patterns that turn out not to work for my particular peculiarities. And once you've bought the kits, you can design any style of dress, skirt, blouse, t-shirt or jacket that grabs your imagination. I'm currently using the dress kit to draught a t-shirt pattern for my elderly mother - hunch back, swollen abdomen and all. She has a shape that no t-shirt pattern is going to accommodate, but by the time I've done the test sews, I'm pretty sure we'll get her some really flattering t-shirts.
@@sheilaross1449 You're welcome. The trouser kit was a bit of a leap of faith for me, but once I'd made my sloper/toile which fit perfectly first time, I was a convert. Yes there's some work needs doing in creating patterns from the master pattern, but once you've done it once, subsequent patterns are much easier - plus the pattern paper doesn't tear if you look at it funny. And there's a wealth of free videos to show you how to use the system and create your own designs. Plus you'll never fear the old FBA/SBA again. There's a template in the dress kit that does all the calculations for you.
How timely! I was going through the instructions on a skirt I plan to sew from Burda Magazine, and I thinking how differently I would had written them. Of course Burda is notorious for driving you mental, but that pattern is one of their lessons of the month and therefore is explained with details in every step. I picked up skills from each pattern I've used from big and small companies and what you say is so true, in time you learn how to use the pattern as a tool.
I started sewing 10-15 years ago, I started with costumes for men, women, children from the years 1850-1865. I like the fashion of that time period. Not an easy way to start sewing, but I'm glad I did and learned a lot. But what I learn from the commercial pattern is, that they are made to discourage people from making their own clothes. I'm not so sure you can call commercial patterns a "tool" because most of the problems are stuffed into those patterns intentionally. For example, I have a size 40, and my body measurements are pretty standard as you will find them in the sizes and descriptions. When I look at the patterns of men's shirts, quite simply, there are always problems with some pattern pieces. For example, my size 40 means, that the circumference of my neck is 40 cm, that must be 100% correct. With some commercial patterns, the collar band pattern pieces appear to be, for size 40, 2 or 3 sizes larger. You also find sleeves much too short or too long, cuffs much too big... The information, description and the patternpieces as well, are already incorrect. So you need to know how to draw and make patterns in the first place... But if you have that knowledge, what is the use of commercial patterns?! Beginners and even advanced sewers will learn a lot more from the incredibly informative videos shared here. The information you shared with us Ms. Wood is invaluable for the beginner as well as for the advanced sewer. It certainly takes a lot of effort to put the information in a video. Thank you very much, and with all respect, for the precious information you are willing to share with us.
What a positive video, Evelyn. After sewing a couple of things and using what I learned from that in the next projects, I've discovered many techniques that can improve the final version of my garment. I find it fascinating to discover how to use those. Thanks for the video.
My mum had a tracing wheel in her sewing kit, and she used it - but she would always put a sheet of some kind of carbon(?) paper underneath, so that the pinpricks would come out dark blue on the paper - much easier to see and join up. I still have sheets of her carbon paper, I think it came in two other colours (inc yellow) as well.
Love this video ,,I would like to see a video on ways to use a sleeve from one pattern on a different pattern. What would be the drawback or alterations needed, I can’t wear sleeveless so would love to add sleeves ,
I was creating a jacket with medium length sleeves and a dress with short sleeves. And I was battling to figure out how to do the sleeves. Found old patterns that had similar garments, so I made a mock-up of one shoulder and sleeve of each, and found that it actually worked.
When I started sewing I decided that buttons were easier than zippers! So I figured out how to change the zipper to a button placet. Looking back I’m sure it would have been just as easy to just learn how to do zippers. So I guess I have always thought of patterns as tools. Also when I was making costumes for kids (usually from a picture of a cartoon) I would find the lines of the costume then change a few things to make it look like the picture!
I now feel oddly liberated from having to draw inside the lines.. I didnt even know I was limiting myself so much until it was pointed out to me. Thanks!
The patterns I have been using would show me how to fit the facing, then in one word it would say "understitch". No explanation of what it means, but I should do it. I know how to do this now and it does make a difference.
I would love to see you make a video of sewing a garment so i can see someone experienced do that. I've just begun my sewing journey and you taught me quite alot.
I just recently picked up sewing and prior to actually sewing I did so much research on terminology and basics. You’ve been making these videos for so long yet somehow every new video is on a subject I’ve been wondering about!! Love your page
Yes, there are so many ways to do certain things. I'm learning new ways to do things much easier than I learned years ago & I've been sewing for years! You can use the pattern directions as guide lines 🙂 & do it your way!
I'm guessing this mentality is where we get the amazing people in the sewing magazines who replace zippers with pockets or tell you a better way to make plackets. I would read those articles and wonder, "how on earth did you know that would work if the pattern says something else!?"
Hello, Evelyn, I hope you can help me ... I am wondering if it's safe to just use a binding tape on the raw edges of your project - will the edges ever "fray" in the long run after you have washed it quite a few times ? Or, what method of hemming would you recommend I use to hopefully keep the joined pieces on the inside of the pattern - IE: at the joining area of sleeves ? TYSM for sharing your techniques and knowledge with us !!! Love your channel 😻❣🥰
Something really clicked for me when I realized I needed to approach sewing the way I approach baking. I don't expect the instructions or pattern to teach me how to sew, just like I don't expect a recipe to teach me how to bake. My friends compliment me on my baking and say "oh I'm no good at baking, nothing ever comes out right" and I say "what did you expect? to magically perfect it on the first try? it's a skill! you have to love the process!" When you try a new recipe, you look at the instructions and gauge how many new elements or complexities are involved, just like with sewing patterns, right? Like, in what order do you combine the ingredients? Does the dough have to sit overnight? What does "par-bake" mean?? And when you bake something for the first time, it's wise to scale down the ingredients and follow the instructions closely, then you can make adjustments, or at least be more confident, the second time. Just like how it's wise to make a muslin/toile so you can sew the final garment with confidence! There are so many parallels, but I think it's mainly just about adjusting expectations and understanding which elements of the process are actually *skills* that take time/practice to acquire. There is no seam ripper for baking though... so I think I actually prefer sewing! lol
And weren't they like 10-25, maybe 50 cents? I was shocked after not sewing for over 20 years to see patterns were $10! Now they are $20+!! Always wait for sales or get them used...
Thank you had so forgotten how to use tracing wheel…. A friend gave me on still has box with it. Even has purple tracing paper Please go over how can use this purple tracing paper with tracing wheel 😊
In my place sewing patterns are not available. I tried finding online but to no avail. To import from amazon or ebay is super super expensive. So I am currently leaning to draft patterns by myself... And it seams so difficult. 😭😭😭 I am completely overwhelmed. I love your videos so so much . I am not from US or Europe. Can you please make a video on what elements of vintage clothes/look we can add in modern clothes.
I think the first time I altered a pattern, and I think it was the second or third pattern I ever used, whas by dismissing the recommended sewing of two modern waistcoat back straps together with the ubiquitous x in a box. How tacky looking. Instead, I sewed two buttons on, connecting the straps in that way. No button holes, so it is permanent, but much nicer than just sewing the two straps together with the thread visible and obvious. I made three waistcoats the same way and they look amazing.
Since most of the sewing projects I want to pursue are cosplay related I have always viewed patterns as a tool. I just want something with a similar shape to what I want to make but will need to make changes. I am really just buying the shapes. Sometimes the instructions are helpful as they give me a new skill to learn but I don't feel the need to follow them to the letter.
I dont know what i do wrong but every time ive tried a pattern i screw it up royally. But when i self draft it always works. Honeslty gave up on patterns and learnt how to draft 🤣
I bought one couple of Butterick patterns, but I was disappointed by the inconsistency of the paper. I would be ready to pay more for a paper which doesn't rip or break. Burda patterns are better, especially in the last years they have abandoned the very thick print of many different patterns on the same sheet ...and give patterns in all sizes. As for the translations, you sometimes have the feeling the translator didn't understand the meaning of the text. For my first sewing, I must thank MY MOM ❣🌹
I’m confused with patterns, they don’t explain in the steps what exactly they’re talking about. Like Interfacing on step 14 without telling you what part of the garment they’re talking about. The waist, the side, the hem? Ugh. Makes me angry I cut a beautiful shirt out of expensive fabric and have to guess how to finish it.
Me believing I was the "master" of my sewing project was the reason why I used to skip understitching. I now know that being a true master of a sewing project requires knowledge and insight... (Without those it's just plain ignorance) That's why your videos are so valuable. They empower me to be a better "master".
🤣 I know what you mean! I like to say, you can break the rules and sew off pattern, when you know and understand why the rules are there in the first place 😃
It was definitely a lightbulb moment for me when I discovered that I could mix and match things -- I like this bodice, but I want to put on that skirt, and it doesn't come with pockets so I'll grab that from something else...you definitely have to be careful to measure and make sure everything will fit together, but once you figure that out you can basically make whatever you want! 🙂
The first few sewing projects I did were without using any patterns, I followed some beginner level projects from UA-cam which included very simple (mostly rectangle) pattern pieces that I could simply measure on myself then cut. I found it really helpful to do this way since I learn better by watching someone else do it first, rather than trying to decipher written instructions, and it really helped me develop more of an intuition for construction. Then when I moved on to patterns I felt more confident in being able to understand them with the basic skill level already developed
When I first started sewing, using commercial patterns, I religiously followed all the instructions, because I believed thats what I had to do. Over time, I came to realise that not all the instructions made sense, or I could change the sewing order to suit my sewing style. Eg most patterns have sewing the zip as the last step, when the dress is fully assembled. However I find I get a better finish if I installl the zip before I complete the side seams, so that I am sewing on the flat and don't have the front of the dress getting in the way when I'm installing a back zipper. Treat the instructions as a guide only, and don't be afraid to do your own thing. Happy sewing.
I had my lightbulb momemt when my aunt, who went to fashion school, showed me her old school project bits. That was an entire suit case of fabric scraps where they were tested on just one skill, such as pin tucks, piped buttonholes, different styles of collars etc.
Before that I had always just done my next garment and when I ran into something I didn't know how to do just muscled through somehow. Which is kind of silly in retrospect.
Now, when I feel like sewing, I just get out this tome of an illustrated techniques book I have, grab some leftover fabric and start practicing another skill.
Not only has my sewing itself improved by doing this, I now get more out of my actual garments as well, because when I look at a pattern now, I not only see what is there but what I could do with it as well and now I often make small changes to things like the shapes of collars or the way something is finished on the inside because I've practiced it before and I know it can work in this context. Made my sewing much more rewarding.
I did that with learning to do vented lined pleat in the back of a pencil skirt. I found a great simple video, only 10 minutes long, that talks you thru it...and each time, i still watch it and do it with the video bit by bit. Its just one skill in sewing i just can never remember, but i dont do it often and it is complex and mind bending. My next goal is fly zippers! Urgh!
@@roxannlegg750 god yes, lined vents are something I always need a refresher on as well. Good luck for your neyt venture!
@@paraboo8994 yes...they look simple..but ppl who dont know otherwise, know that if theyve ever tried to do it, when constructing it, they have to think inside out, back to front and reverse....im pretty good at 3D, but lined vented pleats take the cake! 18th C front fall pants were easier! LOL
Oooh what is this book you speak of?
@@Sky-fz7ku i have two, the bigger one is from a second hand book shop and in German from the 70s, so that might not work for you, but the other one is The Sewing Book by Alison Smith. That one I'd really recommend!
I haven't used my sewing machine in over a year, I just got caught up with life and was always too tired I guess. Last week I stumbled across your channel, and tonight I dusted my bernina off and found my pedal somewhere in the spare room. No idea what I'm going to start with, but thank you for helping me find my sew-jo again
I'm a retired community college instructor who has trained student teachers. Sewn all my life and ready to advance to the next level in my retirement. You are a great teacher. BTW; you had me at "Leaps and bounds."
I love the idea a pattern is just a tool. Never thought about it but it makes so much sense.
I'm very new to sewing (I've made 6 garments!) and have had to look everything up as I go along. Once I actually did something different to what the pattern said and I felt really guilty - as though I'd done something wrong!! Haha! This video has definitely been a lightbulb moment for me too. Brilliant, thank you Evelyn. x
Aww, I felt that. I was the same way at first (sewing for 3 years now), scared to make any adjustments. Now, I go through the pattern and begin to look for what I would like to change. I actually look forward to making modifications now. It'll come to you pretty quickly 😉
🥰 I'm so glad to hear it! And sounds like your on the right track!
I've made... I think 5 or 6 things... Not sure.
@@Evelyn__Wood 😊 Thank you
So, patterns are just a guide. Wondrous advice! Thanks so much ... I've been slavishly adhering to patterns for decades, lacking the confidence to "make them my own ". Thank you Evelyn! 😀❤
I can't wait to hear back about the next one you use then! 😃
Patterns (pronounced here pad-erns) definitely became starting points when entering the world of pattern sharing. That is pieces copied on newspaper, brown bags, wrapping paper,old sheets,pellon,etc and shared WITHOUT instructions!
Some times a garment constructed by the pattern was lended as a guide. I entered this realm of sewing as an experienced sewist though I was slave to the provided guidesheet at least for construction. One memorable project was a lined child's hooded jacket with a separating zipper. The garment on lend, I believe, had NO exposed seams! There was a lot of mental making that came before its construction! It was a pattern I used numerous times although I don't think I ever figured out the hidden seams even with using different construction each jacket!
Where I grew up, in Newfoundland and Labrador Canada, it was pronounced pat-er-ns.
I suspect I have both benefitteed and also missed things by generally not using patterns I didn't make... Mostly my sewing (aside from mending) has been either "how can I copy this thing I like that fits me properly but is wearing out cause I wear it so much" or "what can I make with this limited amount of really nifty fabric?" I think I have made one skirt and one dress from actual storebought patterns so far in twentysome years of sewing.
Thankfully my pandemic-induced foray into historical and vintage sewing has taught me some good things and gotten me into some good habits (using a thimble, felling seams, understitching), and am working on a few others (pressing seams, although to be fair, it's nearly pointless with flannel and I can do it with my hands on linen, but now that I'm working with more cotton, I'm realizing where I can get away without, and where I really should get the iron out). Things I have very little experience with: buttons (I still need my mom to sew them on so they'll stay), linings, plackets, zippers, and how to make trousers. And I think I need to find instructions for facings, I've just been faking it :P
So true! I don't like overlocked seams on fitted bodices for my daughter so I alternate bound seams, felling and French seams.
I like learning the skills I need on my children's clothes because it's easier - and turns out my son really enjoys his button up shirt 😃
Ottobre sewing magazine has really nice instructions that always have a headline like "joining" or "placket" and you only read it if you need to. They also have nice free one page tutorials on their website for collars, plackets, zippers etc.....
Thank you for spreading the word! My mom was a seamstress in post WWII Europe and made patterns based on what people said they wanted. She couldn't afford to replace the fabric if she made a mistake, so she learned to be meticulous in making the patterns. I am still using the skirt and trousers pattern she made for me 20 years ago (with some sizing adjustments 😂). She taught me to evaluate commercial patterns to make sure the steps were in a logical order and switch it up if needed.
I am a baby master. Learning happily and humbly. Thank you for focus on skills!❤
I think I began viewing patterns as a tool after I started cutting individual pieces in the pattern onto fabric and practice with that skill, i.e., facings. It helped me see how each piece is used to create the garment and I don’t start on the actual garment until I feel experienced enough with instructions for each piece. I hope that makes sense. Yes I thank you for your understitch video. Thank you thank you 🙏🏽
💡Now I completely understand what my mom was trying to explain to me the first time she took me pattern shopping. I was only twelve years old, so it’s taken many years!
I’m about to tackle my first zip, have been sewing for years but have always avoided any pattern with a zip. Time to beat this problem 💪
It is a lot easier than you make it to be. I was the same way, but I needed to make toiletry bags for family for Christmas. I sewed my fist zippers on bags lol Bags are harder than clothes. As long as you use a zipper foot, and go slow, it will be fine. Try it, you will be proud of yourself.
Have you figured it out yet? One of the things that makes life much easier is putting the zip in before sewing any other seams. But a game changer for me was buying a zip a little longer than I needed then I could leave the zip closed, with the pull right at the top and out of the way of the zip foot and then there is none of that faffing around moving the pull when installing the zip.
I'm a fairly new stitchling and I'm sewing every day, it's addictive! I'm so grateful for all your advice and lessons, I really do appreciate you Evelyn, thank you ❤ I've made a few garments and I completely understand your advice in this video, I'm learning lots each time I make something and I'm definitely beginning to spot occasion for using my own knowledge and application of my new skills, I feel quite proud. 😊 I haven't got my grandma around anymore, but you are brilliant and key to my sewing journey. Thank you lovely lady 😘💋❤
I personally try to use patterns as is the first time I use them but look at them as a way to learn techniques as i sew. Then as I do them again or do something similar, I make modifications or apply new knowledge
This lightbulb just recently went off!
I’ve been garment sewing since age 12. I never measured but made things straight out of the envelope. It was probably beginners luck but I made some quite sophisticated garments that fit well. Fast forward many years, I now take my measurements, make toilets, and proceed very carefully!
Me too
I guest since I have curves, now😉
Autocorrect fail lol I haven’t tried making toilets. But I know what you meant.
Same here.
Yes! If your body fits the pattern out of the packet - its like winning lotto. For the rest of the 95% of the popoulation...we have to toile, toile and toile again! My body is SO outside the pattern framework - its only ever a starting point for me.
I absolutely LOVE that you acknowledge that there is more than one way to do things in sewing. I took a sewing class once where the instructor was teaching us to sew only one way....her way. If we attempted to do things any other way, we would be reprimanded. I quit that class and turned to You Tube because I wanted to take my sewing skills to the next level by learning all the various ways to construct a garment.
Good choice! 😀😀
So, I am only starting, I am working on a summer dress at the moment, but I already am deviating from the pattern I have ^^ (I think that I think myself capable of this because I watched so many videos about sewing before, and techniques, and such). This dress have a facing but no lining, and because my fabric is sheer, I am lining it inthe bodice and top of the skirt. Also, I shortened the shoulder (it was easy because I only had to do it on the back piece, the front is gathered) and I made the sleeves puffier. And I want to sew the skirts with french seams, since my fabric is quite prone to fraying, even though the pattern tells me to finish the seams otherwise ^^
Great advice. Love your hair today ❤ Recently I saw a movie biography of ‘Halston’ and saw his signature dress pattern masterpiece in one piece - genius! What skill he had as well as changing fashion design in the 70’s
If you haven't gone off-pattern before and want to try but don't feel super confident about it, this is what I did for my first off-pattern project:
Choose a pattern that has multiple views that are somewhat similar but have more than one small difference between them. (Mine was a Medieval-inspired shirt pattern [not remotely historically accurate, just a costume] that had slightly different necklines and sleeve finishes, and one view that added trim.) Then, choose one element from two or more views to put together on the same garment. (I picked the neckline from one view, the sleeve cuffs from another, and the trim placement of a third.) It's a way to go slightly off-pattern (make sure you know which pattern pieces you need and which steps of the directions to follow!) without going outside of the pattern instructions themselves.
I've missed so many videos lately! I must do a bit of binge watching to catch up! I've been busy recording my own vlogs, people like yourself motivated me to do it! Your videos are so helpful - thank you!
I was watching other vloggers before I found Evelyn, and also thought of doing it (except I don't like my own voice😉). But ever since I found Evelyn, I cannot deal with almost all the others. Her voice is so calming and motivating, the way she speaks and the grammar she uses reminds me of one of my best friends that is now living on another continent and whom I miss dearly. And then the bonus is that you actually learn very important things that make a great difference to how the garment ends up. I watched one video today on how not to stretch a neckline with a simple stitch and, about an hour later watched another vlogger adding elastic around a curve, without that stitch, and totally spoiling the neckline😮. I absolutely love and adore Evelyn, and am totally addicted to her videos. Rigjt now I am lying in ned, trying to fall asleep, bit still watching Evelyn❤❤
EDIT: I am already talking about a garment and not an outfit anymore😁
I learned to sew on a treadle sewing machine. As I got older and making new friends I did use paper patterns and even began to learn to alter the dress patterns to firt male crossdressers. It was fun. Love the video.
Thank you! I think I was always worried about doing it "wrong" and have only felt very slightly freed from that idea as I watched more and more sewing videos and vlogs. Thank you for the permission to do it how we feel is best! I'm excited to watch your videos on fitting because that is a skill I need to work on.
I do a lot of sewing and make my own patterns, and particularly for my daughter's dolls, I alter patterns a lot.
That said, one of my hobbies is making up vintage patterns (adjusted for fit and sometimes changing order of steps where it it benefits process) I like to recreate the cover image, or get a sense of what the finished garment would look like at the time, and to me, this is a creative process in itself. So yes patterns are a tool, but recreating them exactly in the modern era, can also be a creative pursuit.
Im an "off pattern" gal. I am not sure I followed the patterns since high school - bar one gown I made 10 years ago, which was a vogue 1940's gown where you have a gathered curved S form on the bodice of the dress, and you fold the seam allowance under, lay onto the gathered length and top stitch over...a type of seam that cant be done the usual way. That was a historical way to make those specific type of dresses int the early 40's. I learned something new! LOL. But usually Im a "the pattern is the starting point person". But I do yearn back to the days when the patterns in the 1970's onwards (until more recently) when the sewing line was dotted on the pattern too. The commercial need to cram several sizes into one pattern has come at the cost of all more simpler patterns to use with whats what. The sew lines make it so much more simple to understand. I loved you could just look at a pattern and see what had to be done and when. Some even put construction order numbeirng on them!
My mum used to make her own clothes in the 1950's & 60's. She told me they used to use a needle and thread to make a couple of small stitches into the fabric where dots and other marks are on the pattern.
A great explanation for sewers! Thank you for sharing your time and talent!
That's definitely the way my sewing is starting to evolve. For me, zippers were the first step. The instructions in commercial patterns never made much sense to me, so I just figured out a way to install them that works for me. I have also begun eschewing facings for bias binding when possible, because I always find facings to be really finicky. But count me as a convert to under stitching based on your video! I recently finished two dresses with lined bodices and tried your technique- mind blown.
I'd really like to further explore fitting and adjustments; I'm getting older and I'm somewhat fuller figured so things like full belly adjustments could be really useful. But I must admit I'm very intimidated by them; they seem really tricky.
Check out Glenda Sparling and Sure Fit Designs. Her system, although not cheap, has made it possible for me to make trousers that fit me properly without tearing my hair out trying to make adjustments to a commercial pattern that insisted I shouldn't grade between sizes, etc.
I've now got the trouser kit and the dress kit (which incorporated bodices, blouses and skirts) and have finally made a bodice that actually fits my peculiar shape in a way that nothing 'fitted' has ever done in nearly 40 years.
As I say, not cheap, but I reckon in the long run I'll save myself a small fortune on buying patterns that turn out not to work for my particular peculiarities. And once you've bought the kits, you can design any style of dress, skirt, blouse, t-shirt or jacket that grabs your imagination.
I'm currently using the dress kit to draught a t-shirt pattern for my elderly mother - hunch back, swollen abdomen and all. She has a shape that no t-shirt pattern is going to accommodate, but by the time I've done the test sews, I'm pretty sure we'll get her some really flattering t-shirts.
@@somebodyelse138 this is so interesting. I'll definitely look into it. Thanks for sharing!
@@sheilaross1449 You're welcome. The trouser kit was a bit of a leap of faith for me, but once I'd made my sloper/toile which fit perfectly first time, I was a convert.
Yes there's some work needs doing in creating patterns from the master pattern, but once you've done it once, subsequent patterns are much easier - plus the pattern paper doesn't tear if you look at it funny.
And there's a wealth of free videos to show you how to use the system and create your own designs. Plus you'll never fear the old FBA/SBA again. There's a template in the dress kit that does all the calculations for you.
How timely! I was going through the instructions on a skirt I plan to sew from Burda Magazine, and I thinking how differently I would had written them. Of course Burda is notorious for driving you mental, but that pattern is one of their lessons of the month and therefore is explained with details in every step. I picked up skills from each pattern I've used from big and small companies and what you say is so true, in time you learn how to use the pattern as a tool.
I started sewing 10-15 years ago, I started with costumes for men, women, children from the years 1850-1865. I like the fashion of that time period. Not an easy way to start sewing, but I'm glad I did and learned a lot. But what I learn from the commercial pattern is, that they are made to discourage people from making their own clothes. I'm not so sure you can call commercial patterns a "tool" because most of the problems are stuffed into those patterns intentionally. For example, I have a size 40, and my body measurements are pretty standard as you will find them in the sizes and descriptions. When I look at the patterns of men's shirts, quite simply, there are always problems with some pattern pieces. For example, my size 40 means, that the circumference of my neck is 40 cm, that must be 100% correct. With some commercial patterns, the collar band pattern pieces appear to be, for size 40, 2 or 3 sizes larger. You also find sleeves much too short or too long, cuffs much too big... The information, description and the patternpieces as well, are already incorrect. So you need to know how to draw and make patterns in the first place... But if you have that knowledge, what is the use of commercial patterns?! Beginners and even advanced sewers will learn a lot more from the incredibly informative videos shared here. The information you shared with us Ms. Wood is invaluable for the beginner as well as for the advanced sewer. It certainly takes a lot of effort to put the information in a video. Thank you very much, and with all respect, for the precious information you are willing to share with us.
What a positive video, Evelyn. After sewing a couple of things and using what I learned from that in the next projects, I've discovered many techniques that can improve the final version of my garment. I find it fascinating to discover how to use those. Thanks for the video.
My mum had a tracing wheel in her sewing kit, and she used it - but she would always put a sheet of some kind of carbon(?) paper underneath, so that the pinpricks would come out dark blue on the paper - much easier to see and join up. I still have sheets of her carbon paper, I think it came in two other colours (inc yellow) as well.
Thank you so much for explaining this in the way that you have. As a beginning sewer you have made me more excited to start this journey. 5:52
Love this video ,,I would like to see a video on ways to use a sleeve from one pattern on a different pattern.
What would be the drawback or alterations needed, I can’t wear sleeveless so would love to add sleeves ,
I was creating a jacket with medium length sleeves and a dress with short sleeves. And I was battling to figure out how to do the sleeves. Found old patterns that had similar garments, so I made a mock-up of one shoulder and sleeve of each, and found that it actually worked.
When I started sewing I decided that buttons were easier than zippers! So I figured out how to change the zipper to a button placet. Looking back I’m sure it would have been just as easy to just learn how to do zippers. So I guess I have always thought of patterns as tools. Also when I was making costumes for kids (usually from a picture of a cartoon) I would find the lines of the costume then change a few things to make it look like the picture!
I now feel oddly liberated from having to draw inside the lines.. I didnt even know I was limiting myself so much until it was pointed out to me. Thanks!
Just wanted to say, that top is so beautiful on you. Love it ❤️
Thank you ! Just wanted to say your hairstyle is really cute!
The patterns I have been using would show me how to fit the facing, then in one word it would say "understitch". No explanation of what it means, but I should do it. I know how to do this now and it does make a difference.
🙂 Excellent!! And you can use it when the pattern doesn't mention it now too 😉
I am about to start your lesson 'Use patterns' Cannot wait :)
Great clarifications on the sections as the guide to stop and think through the technique first. ❤️👍
I would love to see you make a video of sewing a garment so i can see someone experienced do that. I've just begun my sewing journey and you taught me quite alot.
I just recently picked up sewing and prior to actually sewing I did so much research on terminology and basics. You’ve been making these videos for so long yet somehow every new video is on a subject I’ve been wondering about!! Love your page
I agree, sewing patterns are definitely a tool! Great video as usual. 👍
Thanks Evelyn God bless 🙌
Thank you so much for this wonderful channel! You make my life better!
Yes, there are so many ways to do certain things. I'm learning new ways to do things much easier than I learned years ago & I've been sewing for years!
You can use the pattern directions as guide lines 🙂 & do it your way!
Absolutely!! 😃
Another enlightening video - thank you!
Cutterpillar light box is perfect! Draw directly onto the fabric 😬
Amazing video! Great insight!
I'm guessing this mentality is where we get the amazing people in the sewing magazines who replace zippers with pockets or tell you a better way to make plackets. I would read those articles and wonder, "how on earth did you know that would work if the pattern says something else!?"
I took sewing at school in the early sixties. At that time patterns came in sizes.
And fraken-pattern for the win
Hello, Evelyn,
I hope you can help me ... I am wondering if it's safe to just use a binding tape on the raw edges of your project - will the edges ever "fray" in the long run after you have washed it quite a few times ? Or, what method of hemming would you recommend I use to hopefully keep the joined pieces on the inside of the pattern - IE: at the joining area of sleeves ? TYSM for sharing your techniques and knowledge with us !!! Love your channel 😻❣🥰
Something really clicked for me when I realized I needed to approach sewing the way I approach baking. I don't expect the instructions or pattern to teach me how to sew, just like I don't expect a recipe to teach me how to bake. My friends compliment me on my baking and say "oh I'm no good at baking, nothing ever comes out right" and I say "what did you expect? to magically perfect it on the first try? it's a skill! you have to love the process!"
When you try a new recipe, you look at the instructions and gauge how many new elements or complexities are involved, just like with sewing patterns, right? Like, in what order do you combine the ingredients? Does the dough have to sit overnight? What does "par-bake" mean?? And when you bake something for the first time, it's wise to scale down the ingredients and follow the instructions closely, then you can make adjustments, or at least be more confident, the second time. Just like how it's wise to make a muslin/toile so you can sew the final garment with confidence! There are so many parallels, but I think it's mainly just about adjusting expectations and understanding which elements of the process are actually *skills* that take time/practice to acquire. There is no seam ripper for baking though... so I think I actually prefer sewing! lol
In the 1960s in the US we bought a single size on the pattern.
I remember that. (Dating myself here)
And sadly those patterns I would like to make again don't fit me now 50 years later.
And so much easier to understand I think!
@@Evelyn__Wood I agree with you
And weren't they like 10-25, maybe 50 cents? I was shocked after not sewing for over 20 years to see patterns were $10! Now they are $20+!! Always wait for sales or get them used...
I have been doing this and not realizing it. Its much better to look at it as skill levels. This will help me not compare
I don't know the techniques and I'm already breaking the rules of the pattern 😬😂
Can u do a video on using sewing patterns as a jumping off point for new design ideas
I had forgotten that I have I used patents as tools. For instance, I had a dashiki pattern and borrowed a collar from another pattern.
Thank you had so forgotten how to use tracing wheel…. A friend gave me on still has box with it.
Even has purple tracing paper
Please go over how can use this purple tracing paper with tracing wheel 😊
I'm getting ready to sign up for Vintage Sewing School and so excited to start learning!
😃 Yaaay!! I'm so excited! I can't wait to have in there, if you any questions just ask 😀
In my place sewing patterns are not available. I tried finding online but to no avail. To import from amazon or ebay is super super expensive. So I am currently leaning to draft patterns by myself... And it seams so difficult. 😭😭😭 I am completely overwhelmed. I love your videos so so much . I am not from US or Europe. Can you please make a video on what elements of vintage clothes/look we can add in modern clothes.
Hi. The ClosetHistorian has some videos which explain drafting your own patterns quite well. She helped me a lot anyway. Good luck.
What about pdf patterns? There are a number of free pdf patterns you can test with.
@@Jessiebes ok i will check it out
@@woodenkat8971 hi. Currently i don't have the facility to printout due to lockdown. So i am trying to learn how to make my own patterns.
Starting with a blank piece is of course much harder, but if your determined, you'll make it work in sure! I like the video suggestion too, thankyou!
I think the first time I altered a pattern, and I think it was the second or third pattern I ever used, whas by dismissing the recommended sewing of two modern waistcoat back straps together with the ubiquitous x in a box. How tacky looking.
Instead, I sewed two buttons on, connecting the straps in that way. No button holes, so it is permanent, but much nicer than just sewing the two straps together with the thread visible and obvious.
I made three waistcoats the same way and they look amazing.
What happen with the drenched, moldy manikin? From your thrift haul 7 months ago. We’re you able to salvage her?
Since most of the sewing projects I want to pursue are cosplay related I have always viewed patterns as a tool. I just want something with a similar shape to what I want to make but will need to make changes. I am really just buying the shapes. Sometimes the instructions are helpful as they give me a new skill to learn but I don't feel the need to follow them to the letter.
I dont know what i do wrong but every time ive tried a pattern i screw it up royally. But when i self draft it always works. Honeslty gave up on patterns and learnt how to draft 🤣
I bought one couple of Butterick patterns, but I was disappointed by the inconsistency of the paper. I would be ready to pay more for a paper which doesn't rip or break. Burda patterns are better, especially in the last years they have abandoned the very thick print of many different patterns on the same sheet ...and give patterns in all sizes. As for the translations, you sometimes have the feeling the translator didn't understand the meaning of the text. For my first sewing, I must thank MY MOM ❣🌹
I think it is dependent on the pattern and intent of the garment. I've done both recently.
Hallo if you live in Australia is it still USD to join sewing vintage ????
Love ur vids
😃
I went thru that thinking lol that just cut the pattern and see nooooo
❤
I’m confused with patterns, they don’t explain in the steps what exactly they’re talking about. Like Interfacing on step 14 without telling you what part of the garment they’re talking about. The waist, the side, the hem? Ugh. Makes me angry I cut a beautiful shirt out of expensive fabric and have to guess how to finish it.