You're very good at this. Before DV Projectors we used foil projectors to do this in the Science Museums. We printed or drew on clear 8 1/2 X 11 sheets and then used the projector, set to project the image onto our wood in the size desired. A marking pen was then usually used to trace the image onto the wood. It could then be cut out or painted as desired. I found and bought one of these foil projectors at a thrift store for $20, so I can now do it this way in my home shop. Your DV Projector eliminates the need to print the foils, so probably much easier. My last use of this was to make large stand-ups of Cabbage Patch Characters for a church. I used a router with a Zip Bit (down cutting) with a sheet of foam insulation behind the work to reduce splintering and to bury the chips into for cutting them out of 1/4" plywood. This method is faster and with less chipping than when using a saw. You can also sit or kneel on the work surface as you cut it out. The foam insulation is firm enough to handle the weight.
Hi CharleyL, I wanted to originally find an overhead projector like teachers used in school when I was a kid, but those were hard to find. The digital projector was more readily available. I appreciate the tips about using the foam under the wood while using the router. I appreciate the positive feedback and when you share your techniques. Thanks!
@@CyborgVlog The foam works well under sheets when using a circular saw too, but after getting my knees replaced, kneeling is a whole new experience in pain. Getting back up requires climbing something nearby too. I built a cutting table so I can stand and work on sheets. It's a roughly 30" by 70" frame made from 1 X 4 pine with 5 short pieces of 2 X 4 laid flat and flush with the top of the frame, one across the middle and two near each end to allow attaching Banquet Table Legs that are available from Harbor Freight and Northern. The table frame is all joined together with biscuits and glue, so the only metal in the wood is the short screws holding the legs to the under side of the 2 X 4's. I usually break down sheet stock on this table without using the foam, by setting my saw to cut about 1/4" deeper than the stock thickness, but lay the foam on top when cutting with the router and Zip Bit, or using a sabre saw. No more kneeling on the floor or ground required. The legs fold into the under side of the 1 X 4 frame and the frame leans against my sheet stock in my shop until I need it again. I have also attached a piece of plywood to this table when using it with my chop saw. The area around the saw makes a good place to catch the cuts and behind the saw to hold the long pieces waiting to be cut. I no longer need to work on the ground, and my shop is too small to break down full sheets, so I use this table in the driveway to do it. I no longer use saw horses, unless I want to hold up an additional work surface.
Sounds like a great solution. I’m always looking for ways to get things done in my limited amount of space. I work in the driveway, the backyard, garage, anywhere I can. I do hope to have a separate shop one day. Thanks for sharing the details of your work table.
@@CyborgVlog My shop is a 14 X 26' sort-of barn with a gambrel roof that I built 37 years ago. 6' ceiling at the peak upstairs for storage with a pulldown stairwell and large door in the end to allow storing long things. It has so much woodworking equipment downstairs in it that there are narrow access aisles between everything. A true 1 person shop. Definitely no room to break down full sheets, although I do have a 52" Delta Unisaw crammed in there. The end of the side table of the saw is up against the center of one of the long walls, because I couldn't bear to shorten it. I was always hoping for a bigger shop some day. At 80, I doubt that it will ever happen.
![COZY CHRISTMAS DECORATE WITH ME [2024] PART TWO - BATHROOM/LAUNDRY ROOM CHRISTMAS DECORATE WITH ME](http://i.ytimg.com/vi/ddVGm62GvI4/mqdefault.jpg)
Very talented and creative thinker.
Thank you! 😊
You're very good at this.
Before DV Projectors we used foil projectors to do this in the Science Museums. We printed or drew on clear 8 1/2 X 11 sheets and then used the projector, set to project the image onto our wood in the size desired. A marking pen was then usually used to trace the image onto the wood. It could then be cut out or painted as desired. I found and bought one of these foil projectors at a thrift store for $20, so I can now do it this way in my home shop. Your DV Projector eliminates the need to print the foils, so probably much easier. My last use of this was to make large stand-ups of Cabbage Patch Characters for a church. I used a router with a Zip Bit (down cutting) with a sheet of foam insulation behind the work to reduce splintering and to bury the chips into for cutting them out of 1/4" plywood. This method is faster and with less chipping than when using a saw. You can also sit or kneel on the work surface as you cut it out. The foam insulation is firm enough to handle the weight.
Hi CharleyL,
I wanted to originally find an overhead projector like teachers used in school when I was a kid, but those were hard to find. The digital projector was more readily available. I appreciate the tips about using the foam under the wood while using the router. I appreciate the positive feedback and when you share your techniques. Thanks!
@@CyborgVlog The foam works well under sheets when using a circular saw too, but after getting my knees replaced, kneeling is a whole new experience in pain. Getting back up requires climbing something nearby too. I built a cutting table so I can stand and work on sheets. It's a roughly 30" by 70" frame made from 1 X 4 pine with 5 short pieces of 2 X 4 laid flat and flush with the top of the frame, one across the middle and two near each end to allow attaching Banquet Table Legs that are available from Harbor Freight and Northern. The table frame is all joined together with biscuits and glue, so the only metal in the wood is the short screws holding the legs to the under side of the 2 X 4's. I usually break down sheet stock on this table without using the foam, by setting my saw to cut about 1/4" deeper than the stock thickness, but lay the foam on top when cutting with the router and Zip Bit, or using a sabre saw.
No more kneeling on the floor or ground required. The legs fold into the under side of the 1 X 4 frame and the frame leans against my sheet stock in my shop until I need it again. I have also attached a piece of plywood to this table when using it with my chop saw. The area around the saw makes a good place to catch the cuts and behind the saw to hold the long pieces waiting to be cut. I no longer need to work on the ground, and my shop is too small to break down full sheets, so I use this table in the driveway to do it. I no longer use saw horses, unless I want to hold up an additional work surface.
Sounds like a great solution. I’m always looking for ways to get things done in my limited amount of space. I work in the driveway, the backyard, garage, anywhere I can. I do hope to have a separate shop one day. Thanks for sharing the details of your work table.
@@CyborgVlog My shop is a 14 X 26' sort-of barn with a gambrel roof that I built 37 years ago. 6' ceiling at the peak upstairs for storage with a pulldown stairwell and large door in the end to allow storing long things. It has so much woodworking equipment downstairs in it that there are narrow access aisles between everything. A true 1 person shop. Definitely no room to break down full sheets, although I do have a 52" Delta Unisaw crammed in there. The end of the side table of the saw is up against the center of one of the long walls, because I couldn't bear to shorten it. I was always hoping for a bigger shop some day. At 80, I doubt that it will ever happen.