03:08 -- "...the ideal soldering situation..." Not so. Solder is not -- and has never been -- intended to be any sort of structural material; as a eutectic substance, its grain boundaries and configuration are much too coarse to provide much mechanical strength. The "ideal" situation would be to have twisted the two wires into something resembling "the Western Union joint/splice" or, even, two interlocking "hooks" in perpendicular planes before soldering. Solder does a great job of sealing a well-made mechanical connection, preventing future oxidation and some vibration resistance, but it should not be depended upon to provide mechanical strength. Ever.
Very good point. A lap joint is a poor solder connection, the only places I've seen it used are in stranded wire to component lead situations. I did it this way to illustrate that the solder had wetted well to both wires. Also I didn't have the tools to form the wires correctly. i'll pin your comment at the top.
Thank you. I'm a mechanical engineer with a goodly dose of E.E./physics thrown in, and I don't want anyone to depend upon a lap joint to solve any problems or to be a permanent situation. Solder is a great sealant, but it's a lousy structural component.
@@metallitech Ed is right. Solder is very soft and breaks easily by itself. Copper pipes (plumbing) is completely different story. Connection of one copper element fit inside the other one is what makes the assembly strong. Solder only acts as sealant and glue.
@@ThePrimarySecondary It's the amount of solder bond that makes it strong. Fitting the pipes together makes for a large amount of bond. It would be extremely difficult to pull them apart. If you twist some wires together in a way that has no mechanical strength but has a large amount of contact, and then solder, you will have a very strong connection. We should aim for the largest amount of bond, not the strongest "knot" before soldering.
1:05 Its good for long durations. In my case when I'm soldering 400+ joints its useful to use the low setting to keep the tip hot and the high setting when contacting the material for soldering. I can get a good rhythm down. A super hot tip is not a happy tip :) My 2 cents.
Theese were used back when tv radios had a chassis that parts soldered to there's a medium gun I acquired as well as the small one .tips are expensive .got my first one about 1950 .
A useful video, thanks, but clamping the bare copper wire in the steel jaws of a vice so close to the joint is likely to act as a heat sink. I think it could only heat the joint more effectively if the wire were clamped with a heat insulating material, even a couple of wood packers would do.
I enjoy this video. It comes closest to what I'd really like to know: Would the Weller gun in the 300w setting, flow solder properly onto AWG 6/4/2 copper cables? Lets say its necessary to have an inch of one end soldered. Would this gun supply sufficient heat to the bare strands for solder to flow thoroughly? Note that the cable is not being spliced or soldered to a chassis. It is being prepared for connectors from which it will occasionally be removed.
last time I checked heat was still rising .. you may do better putting the gun tip under the splice particularly when soldering 008 gauge 0r bigger stranded wire.. the wise that close to the splice makes a dandy heat sink... I see why you are using lotsa watts ... cheers !!
+Tasty Fish Not even! SMT stuff is normally done with a hot air tip or smaller special tip. This beast is better known as a BASG (Big A$$ Soldering Gun) and I use it for soldering/desoldering wires/components on older radio chassis.
I have one of these Wellers D 550 that was made in Easton, PA in the 50s. I was told the primary oil is bad and needs to be fixed. Can anyone tell me where I can get it refurbished or fixed? Thanks in advance
My weller the high setting is on half click would it be different on different models mine is orange..forget model number. Slightly smaller than yours.
That depends on when the gun was made. Dual heat models of both the 8200 and D550 types made between the late 50's and early 70's were 1st click low. The gun in the review dates to the 1970 - 1972 period making it among the last of the original D550 types. Later versions abandoned the tip nuts for a variety of inferior tip attachment methods. The power ratings were reduced, trigger wiring order was changed and overall quality has suffered over the intervening years.
That is like a Winchester '73. Does every bit as reliable as possible and then if it stops you can always bash the bastard in the face then crack some nuts.
I believe the idea is that you want to flux and tin the tip at the end of your soldering session. This will protect the tip from corrosion/oxidation in between uses. Next time it will be ready to go.
I have the exact same soldering gun however mine recently stopped heating up.. the two lights work just fine but absolutely no heat... Any suggestions as to what the problem is? Thanks!
Have you measured the voltage across the points where the heat element attaches? It will be a low AC voltage. I believe the lights are connected to the primary side the transformer (120 Volts AC), so the transformer could have blown. remove the Lights and measure the resistance between the hot and neutral plugs with the switch depressed (not plugged into the wall of course :)
First thing to try is to loosen the nuts that hold the tip on and retighten them... This is a common fix for these guns, I use mine only maybe 10 times a year, but it seems every time i go to use iit I need to do that, doing so re seats the connection between the gun and tip... otherwise it gets a bit warm but not hot like it should. On the other hand, if you are getting absolutely no heat, you may have a more serious problem.
I believe that wire hangers are typically steel alloy, therefore the conductance would be too low to allow the "iron" to become hot enough. I have seen DIY paper clip "soldering Irons" by heating the metal with a butane lighter. ua-cam.com/video/3LSrSDK8WVI/v-deo.html I have never attempted making my own, as soldering well is highly depended on the Temperature, Tip and Application. In my home lab I use a Hakko-FX888. At work I use a Metcal MX-5200
03:08 -- "...the ideal soldering situation..."
Not so. Solder is not -- and has never been -- intended to be any sort of structural material; as a eutectic substance, its grain boundaries and configuration are much too coarse to provide much mechanical strength. The "ideal" situation would be to have twisted the two wires into something resembling "the Western Union joint/splice" or, even, two interlocking "hooks" in perpendicular planes before soldering. Solder does a great job of sealing a well-made mechanical connection, preventing future oxidation and some vibration resistance, but it should not be depended upon to provide mechanical strength.
Ever.
Very good point. A lap joint is a poor solder connection, the only places I've seen it used are in stranded wire to component lead situations. I did it this way to illustrate that the solder had wetted well to both wires. Also I didn't have the tools to form the wires correctly. i'll pin your comment at the top.
Thank you. I'm a mechanical engineer with a goodly dose of E.E./physics thrown in, and I don't want anyone to depend upon a lap joint to solve any problems or to be a permanent situation. Solder is a great sealant, but it's a lousy structural component.
@EdWatts Soldered copper pipes, for example, are very strong thanks to the solder. And what does eutectic have to do with anything?
@@metallitech Ed is right. Solder is very soft and breaks easily by itself. Copper pipes (plumbing) is completely different story. Connection of one copper element fit inside the other one is what makes the assembly strong. Solder only acts as sealant and glue.
@@ThePrimarySecondary It's the amount of solder bond that makes it strong. Fitting the pipes together makes for a large amount of bond. It would be extremely difficult to pull them apart. If you twist some wires together in a way that has no mechanical strength but has a large amount of contact, and then solder, you will have a very strong connection. We should aim for the largest amount of bond, not the strongest "knot" before soldering.
I found this gun in my dads tools after he passed away…now maybe I’ll use it on a few projects
1:05 Its good for long durations. In my case when I'm soldering 400+ joints its useful to use the low setting to keep the tip hot and the high setting when contacting the material for soldering. I can get a good rhythm down. A super hot tip is not a happy tip :) My 2 cents.
Thank you for the video. Mine didn’t seem to work. I will try it again.
...you should have applied the tip of the soldering gun UNDERNEATH the work- remember, HEAT RISES!
Theese were used back when tv radios had a chassis that parts soldered to there's a medium gun I acquired as well as the small one .tips are expensive .got my first one about 1950 .
A useful video, thanks, but clamping the bare copper wire in the steel jaws of a vice so close to the joint is likely to act as a heat sink. I think it could only heat the joint more effectively if the wire were clamped with a heat insulating material, even a couple of wood packers would do.
oatey flux? is that acid flux used for plumbing? that's not for use with electric / electronics.
I enjoy this video. It comes closest to what I'd really like to know: Would the Weller gun in the 300w setting, flow solder properly onto AWG 6/4/2 copper cables?
Lets say its necessary to have an inch of one end soldered. Would this gun supply sufficient heat to the bare strands for solder to flow thoroughly?
Note that the cable is not being spliced or soldered to a chassis. It is being prepared for connectors from which it will occasionally be removed.
I found one of these at a thrift store but way older
I have a couple of weller products,now if someone who has a weller would make a comparison of the harbor freight version of the weller style guns
I'm planning to get 300/200W Weller D650 to replacing my radioshack soldering gun, are they good soldering gun?
last time I checked heat was still rising .. you may do better putting the gun tip under the splice particularly when soldering 008 gauge 0r bigger stranded wire.. the wise that close to the splice makes a dandy heat sink... I see why you are using lotsa watts ... cheers !!
hi, could we use it for soldering things in copper , brass, steel , inox ? and how or what do we need ? thank you
Holy crap. what about soldering copper water pipe? Thanks.
I'm learning. Why do you have to clean off the part that is oxidised prior to solderingvthe two part together. Also what dies the flux do?.
These are great guns, im in England and can`t buy the dual heat 8200D here, why i don`t know,
Hi, do you happen to know why they changed the switch setting to highest temp first and the lowest second? Please let me know, many thanks
If you take a 1 foot long piece of 12 gauge copper wire inserted into yours gun, will the entire loop get hot enough to cut foam?
What is this big soldering gun used for ? Can you use it to desolder tiny surface mount components without overheating and damaging the pcb tracks ?
+Tasty Fish Not even! SMT stuff is normally done with a hot air tip or smaller special tip. This beast is better known as a BASG (Big A$$ Soldering Gun) and I use it for soldering/desoldering wires/components on older radio chassis.
Ermmm ...I see...thanks
what is the voltage rating for the wedge light bulb ?
Hi!Can I use it to weld galvanized wire? or which wires resist this type of welding? I want to make lamp frames.. thanks
So these Weller guns don’t automatically feed solder through the gun?
Good review, thank you. I am surprised that the weld held up to 30 lbs.
The term is "joint", not "weld"...welding and soldering are two different process!!
I have one of these Wellers D 550 that was made in Easton, PA in the 50s. I was told the primary oil is bad and needs to be fixed. Can anyone tell me where I can get it refurbished or fixed? Thanks in advance
My weller the high setting is on half click would it be different on different models mine is orange..forget model number. Slightly smaller than yours.
Buen video
good teacher.
your explanation of trigger settings is backwards. 1st click is high, 2nd or fully pulled is really low. test the voltages yourself.
I heard him say that and thought my gun was manufactured backwards.
That depends on when the gun was made. Dual heat models of both the 8200 and D550 types made between the late 50's and early 70's were 1st click low. The gun in the review dates to the 1970 - 1972 period making it among the last of the original D550 types. Later versions abandoned the tip nuts for a variety of inferior tip attachment methods. The power ratings were reduced, trigger wiring order was changed and overall quality has suffered over the intervening years.
The first trigger position is 1100 deg F and second position is 900 deg F.
i theor much diff between the seller brands... the 200/260w and 100/140w?
At 3:30 - 3:40. What is that dark brown stuff? If its contamination, what could have been done to avoid getting that?
That is flux, keeps the copper from oxidizing.
3:48 Love how U use black tape. I'm a black tape guy myself. Others are duct tape guys. Hum that would be a cool video. :)
OMG you are a tape racist, you know? xD
hola donde puedo conseguir la
you are getting that brown staff because you are not using enough flax or you are not cleaning the tip of your soldering gun.
That is like a Winchester '73. Does every bit as reliable as possible and then if it stops you can always bash the bastard in the face then crack some nuts.
Why did you dip the tip into flux at the end of the video?
I believe the idea is that you want to flux and tin the tip at the end of your soldering session. This will protect the tip from corrosion/oxidation in between uses. Next time it will be ready to go.
I have the exact same soldering gun however mine recently stopped heating up.. the two lights work just fine but absolutely no heat... Any suggestions as to what the problem is? Thanks!
Have you measured the voltage across the points where the heat element attaches? It will be a low AC voltage.
I believe the lights are connected to the primary side the transformer (120 Volts AC), so the transformer could have blown.
remove the Lights and measure the resistance between the hot and neutral plugs with the switch depressed (not plugged into the wall of course :)
First thing to try is to loosen the nuts that hold the tip on and retighten them... This is a common fix for these guns, I use mine only maybe 10 times a year, but it seems every time i go to use iit I need to do that, doing so re seats the connection between the gun and tip... otherwise it gets a bit warm but not hot like it should. On the other hand, if you are getting absolutely no heat, you may have a more serious problem.
that is not how you solder with a soldering gun you put the solder on to the heater and the flux the 2 wires and keep adding on to it :)
Heat the work, then apply solder to the work.
Can you use a piece of wire hanger as a soldering iron?
I believe that wire hangers are typically steel alloy, therefore the conductance would be too low to allow the "iron" to become hot enough. I have seen DIY paper clip "soldering Irons" by heating the metal with a butane lighter.
ua-cam.com/video/3LSrSDK8WVI/v-deo.html
I have never attempted making my own, as soldering well is highly depended on the Temperature, Tip and Application.
In my home lab I use a Hakko-FX888. At work I use a Metcal MX-5200
You can lift a car with a welded wire
Yo quiero un cautin pistola igual a éste.
For sale the D550pk
donde las consigo
TYPE 8100 UEC 120/220V
50 HZ 100VA Light 5V-0.2A
SERIE - 0383 AB 20%
ED SD 1 MIN. T25/E
I NEED SOLDERING TIPS 2 EA.
Why do you say sodder and not solder
how many watts are needed for auto motive wiring
+Charles Mills That depends on the wire gauge, typically crimp connectors are used. You can check out Advanced Auto Parts for these connectors.
For sale
lol doesn't know the difference between pressed and depressed
wow so thats how u spell it, damn im dumb
Soddering
To much bla bla bla..you love to hear ur mouth