I didn’t exactly follow this video to the T since I have experience in doing a few “old school” US domestic car automatic transmission fluid, filter and pan drop service. I did my 98 Ford Crown Vic ATF service recently. It is factory equipped with a 4R70W automatic transmission. I dropped the pan, washed out the pan and circle magnet with a shop parts wash machine, and then button it up. Rather than 4.5 quarts, i put 4.3 quarts worth of Motorcraft Mercon V ATF. Drove the car for over 10 miles, parked it on leveled surface, shift each gears back and forth about 20 seconds each position, let it idle for 5 minutes in park and check the level. It was ON THE MONEY! Results: a happy car owner and wont have to do this service until the next 30K miles 👍🏼
I change my tranny fluid (2003 ) Ford Expy. every 40,00 miles. Changed the filter first time and installed a B&M drain plug kit in the pan. 254,000 miles later, the tranny shifts like new. I also pull a 22' Sea Ray boat and open car trailer W/ 67 Fairlane on board. If you take care of them, they"ll take care of you. My father spoke those words years ago, words of wisdom.
Someone once said a PROFESSIONAL, is somebody that makes the difficult appear esay. If that's true,YOU SIR ARE INDEED A PROFESSIONAL! Certainly not based on this video, alone,but on the ENTIRETY of your channel! I for one cannot THANK YOU ENOUGH! Yeah,kind comments are small compensation for the MASSIVE INFORMATION THAT YOU FREELY PROVIDE! MANY MANY THANKS,TO YOU ,SIR!!
I just drained my 4R70W and torque converter out of my 1998 Explorer XLT AWD 5.0L V8. I took out 11 quarts total including what was in the torque converter. I installed a FT105 Motorcraft tranny filter, cleaned the tranny pan, cleaned magnet, torqued all tranny bolts @ 10 ft pounds, then filled it until it was good. Trucks shifts very firm now! Thank you!
@@johnonthecooldoe6338 There is a plastic inspection plug on the bellhousing just in front of the pan. Take that off and have someone bump the starter while you watch from the bottom to see when the plug lines up with the inspection hole. On my 302 F150 I could not get the plug lined up with the hole using the starter - I put a socket on the harmonic balancer nut and tuned the engine over that way. Remove the drain plug and let it drain - give it plenty of time (about an hour). When you reinstall the plug use some loctight,. When refilling I pour in 5 quarts, start the engine and pour in 6 more quarts with the engine running. Thats when I start checking the oil - I will even drive it to get it good and hot for an accurate measurement. My F150 took exactly 13 quarts - per spec its only supposed to take 12- and that's from dry.
Thanks for all the great info on your videos, I changed my transmission fluid in my '04 Ford Expedition with 196,000 miles on it & that original yellow dip stick tube stopper was in pan meaning it had never been done & it runs fine, no different than before, I had no issues just wanted to keep up service, I've always heard not to change it with so many miles on it but thanks to your advice I did it & I'm happy it's done, thanks again & keep those videos coming
I'm going thru the same thing right now with a 05 f150 I got with 230 k needing engine rebuilt , before putting the motor back in want to see if I'm able to do some type of transmission fluid an filter change without ruining the transmission an torque converter . The trans fluid is brown at 230k I'm scared to open it up an change it .
👏 🏆 🔧 This is the best tutorial for the Panther platform trans oil and filter change. The narration and explanation are excellent, the camera work was great (tripod!), and there was no annoying and distracting metal/techno/rap "music" blasting in the background. This is a professional-looking production that walks the novice through the process. Thank you for the superb work, FordTech.
This here is the key to a long lasting transmission,i do mine religiously in all my cars,my oldest transmission was overhauled in 98,still smooth as it can be,not dogging your car and pretending your at the Daytona 500 also helps a lot.
I really appreciate these videos/walk throughs. They have really helped me with maintaining my 04 F150. Thanks for sharing these videos to help guys like me who have the ability and willingness to get dirty and do it yourself (it also saves time and money not having to take it to a shop). Thanks again bro!
Thanks just did this!! First time ever doing a trans drop. 1.5 hours start to all cleaned up. Thanks to this technique I didn't get any fluid on me. Get big pecies of cardboard down and a big pan . Easy repair . 5 quarts almost exactly came out
Draining the torque converter is very simple on these transmissions. You can see the round indented rubber plug on the bottom of the bell housing. Pull it then turn the converter with a screwdriver until you see a bolt. Unscrew the bolt and be ready for about 8 to 9 quarts to empty. Put bolt back in. Fill up with 4 quarts and start engine for 30 seconds. Turn off and add 4 more. Start engine for 30 seconds. Add 3 more and turn on engine. Add balance of oil as needed.
I heard people draining the converter by disconnecting the feed line to radiator and starting the engine! But no sure about that, for how long, tho? I'm sure you can damage the trany that way! What do you think?
Completed the job with my son and I. Good learning experience for him. 2002 F150 216K miles. I found the little yellow plug in the pan. Magnet was covered, but not excessively. Last transmission “flush” by a Ford dealer at 112K in 2010. Paid $169, so I think they flush without removing the pan. Not happy about this. Wonder what I paid for???? Same dealer did a “flush” at 55K. Sorry and I waited this long as I am religious about changing the engine oil every 3K since I’ve owned it at 45K miles. Thank you. I hope you are getting some great residuals from your postings.
Awesome and professional quality video. Greatly appreciate your time and efforts producing Ford maintenance and repair videos. I own a 2007 Ford F150 and a 2010 Ford Mustang GT.
I use fishing line and lightly tie the gasket to the pan through one pan bolt hole on each side(or corners) to keep the gasket aligned while lifting into place. Then start some of my bolts to hang the pan, then cut the fishing line, remove and replace remaining bolts. Just make sure to tie the knots on the outer side of the pan so when cut no line remains inside pan.
The 4R70/75 is a great transmission. Very reliable and a long life. I like to disconnect the cooler line at the radiator, start the engine and let it pump out a few quarts before dropping the pan. It eliminates the waterfall and associated mess if it misses the drain pan. Speaking from experience...lol
@@roberth912 I would change it, but in a multi-step process. Drain a couple of quarts, top it back off and drive it for 500 miles or so. Repeat the process several times with about 500 miles between each step until the fluid looks clean. If there is any dirt/debris, it should slowly loosen it up and work it's way down to the filter. After it's looking clean, drop the pan, clean the magnet, put in a new filter and top it off. The 4R75 isn't nearly as sensitive as others to contamination, but I would still spread out the flush procedure to avoid breaking up a bunch of dirt all at once.
@@stevejohnson5837 yeah thats what I was sorta thinking. So mine has the 4r75w or e? I heard mixed answers from people but you seem to know these cars/transmissions.
@@roberth912 I just looked it up in the service manual, it is a 4R75E. I think the W versions were typically used in the trucks. Yours uses Mercon LV fluid. Total capacity is 12.8 quarts on the police applications. The filter should be the same between the E and W versions. The pan gasket is re-useable and the pan bolts should be torqued to 124 inch/pounds in a crisscross pattern. After a pan drop and filter change, add about 5 quarts of fluid to begin with, drive it for 20-30 minutes to warm up the fluid and slowly bring the level up to about the middle of the crosshatch range. The fluid expands a lot with temperature increases, so don't fill it all the way to the top of the range.
You guys are so good. So REALLY REALLY good. Thank you for what you do. I worshiped DieselTech Ron and still watch his videos occasionally but I've kind of got my 6.0 beat into submission and it doesn't surprise me too often. For gas jobs you're the go-to guys. Thank you.
Great tutorial! I just bought a 2002 F150 with 241K on the odometer and changed the fluid according to these instructions. It still had the yellow plug!
@@JKRhodes, so the transmission on your truck was flushed at least once, but never had the pan dropped to change the filter until you did it. That's good to know. I bought my 2001 F-150 with about 210k mile almost 2 years ago, and checking the transmission fluid recently, I noticed it's about time to change it. It doesn't look/smell burnt, but it's not clean either. It has about 235k miles now. I don't know how many times the fluid has been flushed or changed, but I'm thinking it was probably done at least once. Needless to say, it's probably a good idea that I go ahead and change the fluid and filter soon
I'm not a mechanic by any means but I know how to turn a wrench. thank you for this video and all the other videos you have. I bought another 07 F150 FX4 and just did this transmission service this morning. Running much smoother. Thanks man!
I just did mine 2 months ago at 73k. I used a suction pump to remove the fluid in the pan and dropped it. Besides the filter, there wasn’t much fluid after. I also used the Dorman pan with the drain plug so it’s going to be much easier next time
@@WalterMelons I actually traded it in and got me a Toyota solara convertible. I never had any problems with it to the very end of my ownership so I guess it worked for me. I put 10k after that review as I traded it in with 83k.
Picked up a cheap fluid extractor at Princess Auto and sucked as much fluid out as I could before starting, helped me save my shirt from destruction haha.
I remember being a dumb kid at 17 and doing the first service on my 2007 F-150 with the 4R75E transmission at 60,000 miles. I put a whopping 9 quarts in before I checked it because I didn't realize the 13.9 quart capacity was WITH the torque converter drained out. I even drove it like that for a few hundred miles before I bought to siphon pump to suck out the excess. It blew transmission fluid out of the fill tube all over the underneath of truck and coated the frame. Shifted hard, too. Whenever I would accelerate hard, I could see steam under the truck from trans fluid blowing all over the exhaust, lol. Not a 1,000 IQ thing to do. Never hurt anything, thankfully. Still doing fine at 208k miles.
LOL! Reminds me of a time I thought I was low on trans fluid and over filled my oil pan with lucas trans fluid by putting it down the oil dip stick tube... got real confused in a panic. had mad smoke burning off and had to crack my oil drain plug to let id drip out slowly in a parking lot to get it to operating levels. ahh being an idiot and driving old vehicles. those were the days.
Just did mine today, first time in 20 years, and my truck has 195,800. Had to come looking to see how bad mine was compared to videos. My pan and magnet, filter, and valve body was a thick slurry of metal. Truck shifts and drives so much better
Good morning I have to ask since I'm attempting to do a fluid an filter change an I hear don't replace all the fluid or replace it all , mine is at 230k never felt the truck shift due to bought it with motor having to be rebuilt almost ready to put motor back in , trans fluid on the stick is brown at 230k . Is yours still holding up or has it failed ?
Thank you for the excellent explanation of installing a new filter. I would have had a heart attack if I found that factory plug in the bottom of the pan without knowing what it is. I have two CVPIs that I want to change the filters on. Now I'm ready to go! Thanks again!
God forbid we get a drain plug. I just did 2 sedan's with drain plugs but non servicable filters. What a dream. I did 3 changes with lubraguard in the last. I measured whatever came out and replaced with the same with 200 miles in between. Fluid looks almost perfect. I also changed the crank shaft position sensor and input and output speed sensors on the sedans. They shift like butter with 205k and 110k miles on them. Expedition is at 215k but the one previous owner took it in to a top 10 Ford dealer for all maintenance last change was 160k.
2004 F150 and up 4x4 quick tip, let all the transmission fluid leak into your transfer case, then drain and replace input shaft seal before changing filter and fluid. At least it has a drain plug! :P
I forgot to mention that this would be a lot easier job if one has a hydraulic lift. Trying to re-install this pan with the OEM reusable gasket while on your back is a huge challenge. The OEM gasket tends to slide around and I haven't found a way to hold the gasket in place until I can get a couple bolts installed. I've heard that aftermarket gaskets have smaller holes that will help hold the bolts which will keep the gasket in place. I'll have to try that next time. I was going to use the gasket that came with the new filter but 2 of the holes wouldn't line up no matter how I oriented the gasket. I did replace the pan with an aftermarket pan that has a drain plug though.
Thanks for your videos. I’ve successfully replaced a lower ball joint on my 08 f150 and when my parts and equipment arrive I will be doing this exact service within the next week
I bought a aftermarket pan with a drain hole cause I think it’s stupid why it didn’t have one from the factory it made the 2nd time changing the fluid so much more easier and didn’t make a mess changing the filter
@ p.m. Exactly, these engineers from the manufacturers have these jobs for a reason. The purpose of no drain plug is to make sure you drop the pan to change filter, clean magnet and do a proper inspection. No UA-cam "At Home Service Expert" is going to do that and just leaves open room for transmission performance issues and failure if transmission service not properly completed.
Nice video I have a 95 Thunderbird lx 3.8l this may have been asked how do you get the old oil out of the torque converter would be nice if there were a drain plug on the converter
Does not changing the transmission fluid cause the vehicle to not shift gears or would it be something else? I have an expedition that drives fine for a few mins then itll jerk and when I accelerate it wont shift or speed up. (All of your videos has helped me fix my vehicle on my own with my husband's assistance and when this problem came about I decided to look on here before going to speed hundreds of dollars on an easy fix THANK YOU FOR MAKING THESE VIDEOS)
So I just dropped my pan and my filter was chilling in the bottom 🤔 & the torque order #2 valve body bolt was Hanging out unthreaded about an inch ! I had a shift kit installed 10 years ago ish, & filter change few years back, got it all torqued back down, runs way better and shifts good👍 nervous though on any issues that it could’ve caused? Magnet wasn’t horrible 🤷🏻♂️ thoughts ?
More Crown Vic videos please. :) I used your guide, went smooth as a whistle. One thing to note. When I dropped the pan, the filter was laying in the pan and the seal was still in transmission. Your thoughts on why? Love your videos, I wish you were here in Florida :)
Thank you so much I couldn’t figure out what on earth that yellow plug was 🤦♂️...I’m actually upgrading my transmission pan with one that has a drain plug, and also replacing the filter on my 04 Lincoln town car...subscribe 👌
You need to add that that filter has an index mark where one bolt head goes from the valve body or the filter can get smashed on it. Still not sure why you didn't drain the TQ as it has a drain plug on the transmission housing. You can actually see the plug cover in the video big black rubber in the front. This drains the whole transmission which is 13.5 quarts. Unless you have the deep pan, which takes a longer filter tube. As I seen some people put the short one on a long neck pan and the filter does not rest in the fluid right and the reverse is true. You can not put a long neck filter on a short pan. As it will hit the filter pickup tube first. And Ford transmission fluid is cheap at $5.00 a quart and never had an issue.
+Claude “Reviews4U” Rains if you install the filter straight like I show there is no need to index or align the filter to any bolt the pickup spout is the only part that sticks down and will drop into the sump as you put the pan up so it's pretty hard to crush the filter unless it way off in there. Also there is no drain on this torque converter therefore I didn't drain it. What you have to realize is Ford will continue to use the old style bellhousing with rubber plug because it's cheaper it doesn't automatically mean there is a drain. I haven't see t/c drain plugs since the early 2000's this was a 2005.
My 1996 Ford F-150 4x4 is like that. I had to take out all the transmission crossmember bolts and move the crossmember to get enough clearance to get to those 2 pan bolts. Was wondering if my truck was the only one like that.
The motor in my 2001f-150 5.4L was changed but not sure about transmission. Transmission was slipping so I changed filter and fluid. Fluid was nasty by the way. Afterwards I drove truck seemed to be doing fine but started slipping again and while on the side of the road I noticed major fluid leak. Where could this be coming from and could over filling cause this? My truck is 2001 f150 5.4 but engine replaced was 1G876AA which seemed to be 1999. Transmission pan has an S on it. My question is what type ATF Sho uld I be using and where could the fluid pouring out from? It does have overdrive and once hot is when it slipped, after cooling it didn't make it far at all before slipping to no go. Transmission had 14 bolts and shallow and truck is 4WD. I really trust your opinion as I have fixed 2 heads with Calvin kit and front end work and your videos were perfect, thanks for putting this out there, extremely helpful.
Yet another excellent video. Thorough and easy to understand. I was going to have the stealership do it, but now I'm going to do it myself this weekend. Ya buddy
Nice informative video. Wish my 1996 Ford F-150 4X4 was that easy. Transmission crossmember won't allow you to get to all the bolts so it made the job much more difficult. Do you recommend draining the torque converter also ?
FordTechMakuloco - Thank you... thank you... and thank you. I fooled around with that freakin' yellow plug for 30 minutes until I remembered your channel and thought you "might" have info on what the hell that plug is and where does it belong. So again thank you for the info. I now know where the plug belongs and it ain't in my transmission.
My 2 cents, buy a pan with a drain plug, or add one with s step drill. I guess the 50 cents per vehicle for a drain plug was too much to ask Ford to put on my $35,000- 2004 truck. It now has 173, 000 miles, and runs like a watch, thanks to Brian. Every video nails the CSI (CONSTUCTION SPECIFICATIONS INSTITUTE) 4C rules: Clear, Concise, Correct, and Complete.
In your opinion, do you think there are certain conditions where transmission fluid should be left alone? I know there is a huge debate on changing transmission fluid on higher mileage vehicles that have a transmission that wasn't maintained. I got a 09 Grand Marquis with 120K with no service history on it, and I'm debating on dropping the pan and doing a fluid and filter change. The fluid is still rather pink. Also, when changing transmission fluid, does it matter if you change the fluid when the transmission is cold or at operating temperature?
Would you take the time to change any of the shift solenoids at this point since you're already there? My 05 Crown Vic Interceptor has an issue with shifting to different gears oddly when driving and I was thinking about doing a flush, filter and solenoid replacement. Thoughts?
Mine was in the filter hole where it goes up in the tranny. Kinda gives me a false sense of security thinking that was the issue of my 03 Mustang acting like it had a 5k stall converter.
Most people don't know about the yellow dipstick tube plug. I don't know how many people have told me they routinely changed their transmission fluid and filter and they should not be having problems. We take the pan off and bam, there is the yellow plug, haha.
My 2007 f150 4x4 5.8 flex/at is at 70k. I'm going to do a filter and 5qt change like your video shows... Is there any merit to doing a full system flush like other videos show? I don't have any issues except very minor trans slip at high way speed when it's trying to decide which gear to coast in, usually at about 70 mph.
It truly baffles me that changing out the transmission fluid is not more of an emphasis than it is, at least seemingly. I just changed out the transmission fluid in my 2004 Ford 5.4 L F150, and though it’s still had a red tint to it, I could definitely tell it it had not been changed, at least for a long while. Then I pulled the pan completely off and realize the yellow plug was still in it and that would go to mean that for the last 20 years and 160,000 miles, it has not been changed once. sheesh! 😅 (I’ve only owned it for a few years, and hadn’t even thought about changing the transmission fluid, until I started noticing some symptoms I began to research, and now those symptoms are cleaning up perceptively nicely after the change.)
Thanks for the great video! Perhaps a silly question but am looking for a video about draining and refilling the torque converter in my 1995 F150 4R70W. Drain plug was loose in mine and it lost quite a bit of fluid. Do I refill it through the transmission dipstick or do I pump fluid into the converter like is done to a rear axle assembly? Thanks again!
What did you find out? I took out my fill plug and had some leak out probably because the fluid was still hot and expanded and not sure if I need to refill it there while cold or just by adding at atf fill tube under hood
Any advice or tips ? Did yours hold up ? Do you try somehow refilling at the drain plug on the torque converter as much as what comes out ? My truck is at 230k an is brown when checking the dipstick I bought it needing motor rebuilt an almost finished with that pain .
I've done this 5 or 6 times on my 02 F150. It's got 250k+ miles now. I'm hesitant to do it again though, as the last time I had trouble with the bolts stripping out the threads of the transmission casing. I think at least 2, maybe 3 are stripped now. Fortunately it doesn't leak. I'm wondering what my options are. I figure if I can drill through the pan and install a drain plug, then I can at least change the fluid without dropping the pan. Or course the filter would stay. What about a tap and die set to 'recreate' the threads?? Any recommendations? Thanks!
What did you end up doing brochacho? My expedition is a beach toy/cabana and basically lives in the Atlantic ocean. I'm gonna hit them with some liquid wrench when they are hot and cool. Trying to locate a Amazon prime pan with the drain plug already installed. I don't want to drill my own. I already got a high quality filter and new gasket. Enough for 2 drain and fills and a bottle of lubraguard. I'm also planning to do the high output speed sensor since I throw that code every few months and have the new oem part.
Nice video, but I think the best way to do this, is to drill the pan using a 1/4 inch drill bit, right behind that square lump. Then install a $9 dollar stainless steel drain plug. No mess, easy next time transmission service.
Do you recommend doing it on '04 Ford Expedition that I bought used? It has 195,000 miles on it, bought at 188,000 & don't know if it has ever been done, thanks & love the videos
So, that filter gasket. Last time I put on a new trans filter, I didnt take out the gasket or check to see if it was still in there. This was a few years ago and haven't had any issues. Did I do any damage or is there anything I should be worried about? I'll be doing my drain and fill as well as my trans filter this weekend, which is what I do every few years years. Thank you.
Hi friend, this is a great video and wanted to mentioned that I had a small accident with my 2005 4x4 F150 (broke the oil cooler and the oil leaked while driving), after a few miles I stopped and had to be towed back home. I'm in Canada and the truck has 270,000 km, got it one year ago and don't know any mechanic history of it at all. I have the new oil cooler and wanted to know if I should change the filter now that is "empty", and if you know how much oil I may have lost and how much oil would require to bring it to the correct level?
Really enjoy your videos and i watch them regularly… I’m a long time Ford man. I have a custom built 55’ F100 with a 96’ CV p-71 drive train. The 4R70W has a custom dipstick and i can’t find info on exactly the depth of fluid should be in the pan. Anyone know that info? I’m asking because i has fluid dripping a little out the end of the output yoke. I had to hear the ujoint to get the old one out and the plug melted out. I welded it and had to seal it with epoxy to stop it, but i get a little dripping from the rear seal now🤷🏻♂️. I have a little play in the output yoke, but it was professionally rebuilt many years ago but has only a few miles on it as i have just finished the truck after 13yrs🥴. Keep fixing them Fords! Thanks
Great vid. I had quick question? I have a 2008 F150 5.4 2wd with 180k miles. it runs good but i dont think the transmission oil has never been changed. should i chang it or just let it be. Thanks
You really won't know until you see that plastic yellow plug in the pan. Imagine how clogged your filter would be. I'd change it all including the torque converter
Great vid but may ad you should make sure all the valve body bolts are tight to spec. They have a tendency to loosen up causing possible internal pressure leaks.
How’s it going today? Don’t know if you’ll see this seeing that this video is pretty old. If so, I really hope you respond. I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer expedition 5.4l. When in drive it doesn’t catch gear or something, it does go forward slowly, then catches the first gear when the truck warms a bit. I can barely push the gas pedal and I can feel it go into drive. But after a few minutes everything does great. It’s only the first gear that takes a while to catch. All other gears work fine. And now the O/D light comes on and off sometimes. I’m more than capable of repairing it myself. I just need to know what’s the problem. And I have no idea what it is. I’m learning so I can stay away from shops. Please help as this is my only vehicle at the moment. And thank you so much for your time if you respond.
I did everything just like the video, but I have this aching feeling I didn’t push the filter in all the way. Does it get to like a recessed portion and kind of lock in? I pushed it on initially and it looked kind of droopy so then I just pushed it harder and feel like it looked just like the video but my gut tells me that wasn’t enough like it might come off. And it looks like the filter is also the oil pick up. Does installing the oil pan back on lock the filter in place? Thank you
I know this is an older video, but I have a 2010 f150 4.6W w/4spd auto. The trans has started to click when placing into reverse. Also I can feel a very slight shudder or vibration in the 1-2 shift. Any thoughts?
I've seen a similar video that first disconnected the transmission line coming from the cooler and then started the vehicle. It was run briefly to drain some of the trans fluid before removing the pan thus making it less messy proposition. In your opinion would that be okay to do?
A nut driver really helps starting the trans bolts instead of using fingers. how about trying to get the old fluid out after you do this by capturing the return line before it comes back to the trans? Like using a 2 litre soda bottle at idle . stop and add fluid start and run till clean fluid comes out? I don't know which is the return line on this unit
How does one feel about the WIX filter? I already purchased one but delayed my trans fluid and filter change due to hearing people say use only Ford filter. I know WIX is a reputable brand when it comes to filters.
Can you settle the cooler lines question on the 4R transmissions? Is the upper or lower line into the radiator the "return" where you would disconnect and add in your exterior transmission cooler?
I bought a used 2005 F150 5.4L in excellent condition. The truck has 237xxx miles, but the engine has about 80,000 miles. I don't know if the transmission has been changed or not. It appears to be fairly new (Its really shiny). But anyway my question is should I get the trans fluid changed or leave it alone? Oil is not "hot pink", just a shade darker than pink and it doesn't have a burnt smell either...really need this advice
My dad is giving me his old 2002 Ford Expedition 5.4L V8. It has the 226k miles and said he's never had the trans fluid changed. When I checked the dipstick it was still dark red. It doesn't smell burnt or anything. Do you think it's safe to change the fluid at this point?
I didn’t exactly follow this video to the T since I have experience in doing a few “old school” US domestic car automatic transmission fluid, filter and pan drop service. I did my 98 Ford Crown Vic ATF service recently. It is factory equipped with a 4R70W automatic transmission. I dropped the pan, washed out the pan and circle magnet with a shop parts wash machine, and then button it up. Rather than 4.5 quarts, i put 4.3 quarts worth of Motorcraft Mercon V ATF. Drove the car for over 10 miles, parked it on leveled surface, shift each gears back and forth about 20 seconds each position, let it idle for 5 minutes in park and check the level. It was ON THE MONEY!
Results: a happy car owner and wont have to do this service until the next 30K miles 👍🏼
I change my tranny fluid (2003 ) Ford Expy. every 40,00 miles. Changed the filter first time and installed a B&M drain plug kit in the pan. 254,000 miles later, the tranny shifts like new. I also pull a 22' Sea Ray boat and open car trailer W/ 67 Fairlane on board. If you take care of them, they"ll take care of you. My father spoke those words years ago, words of wisdom.
EXCELLENT! Our 4R7s will keep us out of a new car note thats for sure!
Someone once said a PROFESSIONAL, is somebody that makes the difficult appear esay. If that's true,YOU SIR ARE INDEED A PROFESSIONAL!
Certainly not based on this video, alone,but on the ENTIRETY of your channel!
I for one cannot THANK YOU ENOUGH!
Yeah,kind comments are small compensation for the MASSIVE INFORMATION THAT YOU FREELY PROVIDE!
MANY MANY THANKS,TO YOU ,SIR!!
I just drained my 4R70W and torque converter out of my 1998 Explorer XLT AWD 5.0L V8. I took out 11 quarts total including what was in the torque converter. I installed a FT105 Motorcraft tranny filter, cleaned the tranny pan, cleaned magnet, torqued all tranny bolts @ 10 ft pounds, then filled it until it was good. Trucks shifts very firm now! Thank you!
Any trick to getting it out of the torque converter? Thanks in advance!
@@johnonthecooldoe6338 There is a plastic inspection plug on the bellhousing just in front of the pan. Take that off and have someone bump the starter while you watch from the bottom to see when the plug lines up with the inspection hole. On my 302 F150 I could not get the plug lined up with the hole using the starter - I put a socket on the harmonic balancer nut and tuned the engine over that way. Remove the drain plug and let it drain - give it plenty of time (about an hour). When you reinstall the plug use some loctight,. When refilling I pour in 5 quarts, start the engine and pour in 6 more quarts with the engine running. Thats when I start checking the oil - I will even drive it to get it good and hot for an accurate measurement. My F150 took exactly 13 quarts - per spec its only supposed to take 12- and that's from dry.
Thanks for all the great info on your videos, I changed my transmission fluid in my '04 Ford Expedition with 196,000 miles on it & that original yellow dip stick tube stopper was in pan meaning it had never been done & it runs fine, no different than before, I had no issues just wanted to keep up service, I've always heard not to change it with so many miles on it but thanks to your advice I did it & I'm happy it's done, thanks again & keep those videos coming
I'm going thru the same thing right now with a 05 f150 I got with 230 k needing engine rebuilt , before putting the motor back in want to see if I'm able to do some type of transmission fluid an filter change without ruining the transmission an torque converter . The trans fluid is brown at 230k I'm scared to open it up an change it .
That’s because Ford made a damn good decision putting the magnet in the bottom of the pan.
👏 🏆 🔧 This is the best tutorial for the Panther platform trans oil and filter change. The narration and explanation are excellent, the camera work was great (tripod!), and there was no annoying and distracting metal/techno/rap "music" blasting in the background. This is a professional-looking production that walks the novice through the process. Thank you for the superb work, FordTech.
This here is the key to a long lasting transmission,i do mine religiously in all my cars,my oldest transmission was overhauled in 98,still smooth as it can be,not dogging your car and pretending your at the Daytona 500 also helps a lot.
Just bought a 05 150 w/ 139,000 miles. Followed your video and everything was spot on. Thank you for taking your time to share this video.
I really appreciate these videos/walk throughs. They have really helped me with maintaining my 04 F150. Thanks for sharing these videos to help guys like me who have the ability and willingness to get dirty and do it yourself (it also saves time and money not having to take it to a shop). Thanks again bro!
Thanks just did this!! First time ever doing a trans drop. 1.5 hours start to all cleaned up. Thanks to this technique I didn't get any fluid on me. Get big pecies of cardboard down and a big pan . Easy repair . 5 quarts almost exactly came out
How many quarts do you poor back?
Thank you
Seriously great guide man. Very detailed and you showed every step of the process.
Draining the torque converter is very simple on these transmissions. You can see the round indented rubber plug on the bottom of the bell housing. Pull it then turn the converter with a screwdriver until you see a bolt. Unscrew the bolt and be ready for about 8 to 9 quarts to empty. Put bolt back in. Fill up with 4 quarts and start engine for 30 seconds. Turn off and add 4 more. Start engine for 30 seconds. Add 3 more and turn on engine. Add balance of oil as needed.
I heard people draining the converter by disconnecting the feed line to radiator and starting the engine! But no sure about that, for how long, tho? I'm sure you can damage the trany that way! What do you think?
any links to a video ?
I really want to do that next time
Only possible on older gen. '03+ does NOT have a T/C drain plug, they decontented that in mid '01.
at least on the Panther platform.
anybody know the torque specs on the torque converter? I have a 98 with the 4.2 engine. Thanks!
Another great video. Educating the masses with expert advice/routine maintenance. Doesn't get any better than this.
Awesome video! This makes me confident in doing the filter and fluid change myself.
Completed the job with my son and I. Good learning experience for him. 2002 F150 216K miles. I found the little yellow plug in the pan. Magnet was covered, but not excessively. Last transmission “flush” by a Ford dealer at 112K in 2010. Paid $169, so I think they flush without removing the pan. Not happy about this. Wonder what I paid for???? Same dealer did a “flush” at 55K. Sorry and I waited this long as I am religious about changing the engine oil every 3K since I’ve owned it at 45K miles. Thank you. I hope you are getting some great residuals from your postings.
That was the absolute BEST maintenance video I've ever seen... Nice work!
Awesome and professional quality video. Greatly appreciate your time and efforts producing Ford maintenance and repair videos. I own a 2007 Ford F150 and a 2010 Ford Mustang GT.
I use fishing line and lightly tie the gasket to the pan through one pan bolt hole on each side(or corners) to keep the gasket aligned while lifting into place. Then start some of my bolts to hang the pan, then cut the fishing line, remove and replace remaining bolts. Just make sure to tie the knots on the outer side of the pan so when cut no line remains inside pan.
The 4R70/75 is a great transmission. Very reliable and a long life. I like to disconnect the cooler line at the radiator, start the engine and let it pump out a few quarts before dropping the pan. It eliminates the waterfall and associated mess if it misses the drain pan. Speaking from experience...lol
I have 169k on my 2009 crown vic police interceptor. Fluid looks brown. Should I change it or leave it alone?
@@roberth912 I would change it, but in a multi-step process. Drain a couple of quarts, top it back off and drive it for 500 miles or so. Repeat the process several times with about 500 miles between each step until the fluid looks clean. If there is any dirt/debris, it should slowly loosen it up and work it's way down to the filter. After it's looking clean, drop the pan, clean the magnet, put in a new filter and top it off. The 4R75 isn't nearly as sensitive as others to contamination, but I would still spread out the flush procedure to avoid breaking up a bunch of dirt all at once.
@@stevejohnson5837 yeah thats what I was sorta thinking. So mine has the 4r75w or e? I heard mixed answers from people but you seem to know these cars/transmissions.
@@stevejohnson5837 yep my grandfather pointed that out about how fast the fluid darkens.. Strange. How many miles are on your trans?
@@roberth912 I just looked it up in the service manual, it is a 4R75E. I think the W versions were typically used in the trucks. Yours uses Mercon LV fluid. Total capacity is 12.8 quarts on the police applications. The filter should be the same between the E and W versions. The pan gasket is re-useable and the pan bolts should be torqued to 124 inch/pounds in a crisscross pattern. After a pan drop and filter change, add about 5 quarts of fluid to begin with, drive it for 20-30 minutes to warm up the fluid and slowly bring the level up to about the middle of the crosshatch range. The fluid expands a lot with temperature increases, so don't fill it all the way to the top of the range.
You guys are so good. So REALLY REALLY good. Thank you for what you do. I worshiped DieselTech Ron and still watch his videos occasionally but I've kind of got my 6.0 beat into submission and it doesn't surprise me too often. For gas jobs you're the go-to guys. Thank you.
You are a really good mocanic illustrator.
Great tutorial! I just bought a 2002 F150 with 241K on the odometer and changed the fluid according to these instructions. It still had the yellow plug!
Yikes, how bad did the fluid look?
@@JohnnyReb2000 wasn’t too bad. Got flushed around 160k according to the sticker under the hood, power flush I’m guessing!
@@JKRhodes, so the transmission on your truck was flushed at least once, but never had the pan dropped to change the filter until you did it. That's good to know. I bought my 2001 F-150 with about 210k mile almost 2 years ago, and checking the transmission fluid recently, I noticed it's about time to change it. It doesn't look/smell burnt, but it's not clean either. It has about 235k miles now. I don't know how many times the fluid has been flushed or changed, but I'm thinking it was probably done at least once. Needless to say, it's probably a good idea that I go ahead and change the fluid and filter soon
Best Ford Vids on UA-cam by far. Nice job (s). Just wish you had more on the 4.6 Thunderturds...
I'm not a mechanic by any means but I know how to turn a wrench. thank you for this video and all the other videos you have. I bought another 07 F150 FX4 and just did this transmission service this morning. Running much smoother. Thanks man!
I just did mine 2 months ago at 73k. I used a suction pump to remove the fluid in the pan and dropped it. Besides the filter, there wasn’t much fluid after. I also used the Dorman pan with the drain plug so it’s going to be much easier next time
How’s that pan holding up? I am considering doing the same when I do mine. Another UA-camr said his had warped and started leaking.
@@WalterMelons I actually traded it in and got me a Toyota solara convertible. I never had any problems with it to the very end of my ownership so I guess it worked for me. I put 10k after that review as I traded it in with 83k.
Picked up a cheap fluid extractor at Princess Auto and sucked as much fluid out as I could before starting, helped me save my shirt from destruction haha.
Hey man, love your videos extremely helpful. I have a 2005 eddie bauer expedition extremely helpful I appreciate it! thanks
I remember being a dumb kid at 17 and doing the first service on my 2007 F-150 with the 4R75E transmission at 60,000 miles. I put a whopping 9 quarts in before I checked it because I didn't realize the 13.9 quart capacity was WITH the torque converter drained out. I even drove it like that for a few hundred miles before I bought to siphon pump to suck out the excess. It blew transmission fluid out of the fill tube all over the underneath of truck and coated the frame. Shifted hard, too. Whenever I would accelerate hard, I could see steam under the truck from trans fluid blowing all over the exhaust, lol. Not a 1,000 IQ thing to do. Never hurt anything, thankfully. Still doing fine at 208k miles.
LOL! Reminds me of a time I thought I was low on trans fluid and over filled my oil pan with lucas trans fluid by putting it down the oil dip stick tube... got real confused in a panic. had mad smoke burning off and had to crack my oil drain plug to let id drip out slowly in a parking lot to get it to operating levels. ahh being an idiot and driving old vehicles. those were the days.
That fluid looks pretty red for 90k miles and never having trans serviced
I watched this just to find out what that plug was. Thank you for another great video!
Just did mine today, first time in 20 years, and my truck has 195,800. Had to come looking to see how bad mine was compared to videos. My pan and magnet, filter, and valve body was a thick slurry of metal. Truck shifts and drives so much better
Good morning I have to ask since I'm attempting to do a fluid an filter change an I hear don't replace all the fluid or replace it all , mine is at 230k never felt the truck shift due to bought it with motor having to be rebuilt almost ready to put motor back in , trans fluid on the stick is brown at 230k . Is yours still holding up or has it failed ?
Thank you for the excellent explanation of installing a new filter. I would have had a heart attack if I found that factory plug in the bottom of the pan without knowing what it is. I have two CVPIs that I want to change the filters on. Now I'm ready to go! Thanks again!
God forbid we get a drain plug. I just did 2 sedan's with drain plugs but non servicable filters. What a dream. I did 3 changes with lubraguard in the last. I measured whatever came out and replaced with the same with 200 miles in between. Fluid looks almost perfect. I also changed the crank shaft position sensor and input and output speed sensors on the sedans. They shift like butter with 205k and 110k miles on them. Expedition is at 215k but the one previous owner took it in to a top 10 Ford dealer for all maintenance last change was 160k.
2004 F150 and up 4x4 quick tip, let all the transmission fluid leak into your transfer case, then drain and replace input shaft seal before changing filter and fluid. At least it has a drain plug! :P
I forgot to mention that this would be a lot easier job if one has a hydraulic lift. Trying to re-install this pan with the OEM reusable gasket while on your back is a huge challenge. The OEM gasket tends to slide around and I haven't found a way to hold the gasket in place until I can get a couple bolts installed. I've heard that aftermarket gaskets have smaller holes that will help hold the bolts which will keep the gasket in place. I'll have to try that next time. I was going to use the gasket that came with the new filter but 2 of the holes wouldn't line up no matter how I oriented the gasket. I did replace the pan with an aftermarket pan that has a drain plug though.
@Doug Pfennig I'll keep this in mind for the next time. Thanks.
Thanks for your videos. I’ve successfully replaced a lower ball joint on my 08 f150 and when my parts and equipment arrive I will be doing this exact service within the next week
Nice job with the operation Dr. Makuloco
Thanks!
Love your videos... I have a 2004 Ford F150 4.6 and feel like I can rebuild the engine with your videos... Thank you...
Learned Alot from you sirmI change out my 5.4 too watching your videos.I learned everything from you sir!
Thanks for this! Found the little yellow plug.... you solved the mystery for me!
Scared the heck out of me when I found it in the pan and couldn't locate where it came from
Going to do my 2003 Crown vic today or tomorrow not sure yet. Thanks for a great video sir. I appreciate it.
I bought a aftermarket pan with a drain hole cause I think it’s stupid why it didn’t have one from the factory it made the 2nd time changing the fluid so much more easier and didn’t make a mess changing the filter
Dorman 265-813 Transmission Pan with Drain Plug
How are you going to clean your magnet if you don't take the pan down?
Rickboh: if you notice, the commentor above you ends with these words: "...and didn’t make a mess changing the filter."
@ p.m. Exactly, these engineers from the manufacturers have these jobs for a reason. The purpose of no drain plug is to make sure you drop the pan to change filter, clean magnet and do a proper inspection. No UA-cam "At Home Service Expert" is going to do that and just leaves open room for transmission performance issues and failure if transmission service not properly completed.
you think its stupid because you dont know wth youre talking about
I'm doing this job tomorrow. great video. 👍
Thanks for posting straight to the point with all the correct information.
God Bless you Sir.
Nice video I have a 95 Thunderbird lx 3.8l this may have been asked how do you get the old oil out of the torque converter would be nice if there were a drain plug on the converter
Does not changing the transmission fluid cause the vehicle to not shift gears or would it be something else? I have an expedition that drives fine for a few mins then itll jerk and when I accelerate it wont shift or speed up. (All of your videos has helped me fix my vehicle on my own with my husband's assistance and when this problem came about I decided to look on here before going to speed hundreds of dollars on an easy fix THANK YOU FOR MAKING THESE VIDEOS)
So I just dropped my pan and my filter was chilling in the bottom 🤔 & the torque order #2 valve body bolt was Hanging out unthreaded about an inch ! I had a shift kit installed 10 years ago ish, & filter change few years back, got it all torqued back down, runs way better and shifts good👍 nervous though on any issues that it could’ve caused? Magnet wasn’t horrible 🤷🏻♂️ thoughts ?
Dude your videos are very good and clear. Keep up the good work.
I have A F150 Ford super Cab & my Pan to the transmission has a Dream Plug Thank God for that
My 01 f150 xl has a tourque converter which has a plug in it and I change that also.Excellent videos.
More Crown Vic videos please. :)
I used your guide, went smooth as a whistle. One thing to note. When I dropped the pan, the filter was laying in the pan and the seal was still in transmission. Your thoughts on why?
Love your videos, I wish you were here in Florida :)
Thank you so much I couldn’t figure out what on earth that yellow plug was 🤦♂️...I’m actually upgrading my transmission pan with one that has a drain plug, and also replacing the filter on my 04 Lincoln town car...subscribe 👌
Thank you for taking your time and making this video. Very clear, and nicely done. Thumbs up!!
You need to add that that filter has an index mark where one bolt head goes from the valve body or the filter can get smashed on it. Still not sure why you didn't drain the TQ as it has a drain plug on the transmission housing. You can actually see the plug cover in the video big black rubber in the front. This drains the whole transmission which is 13.5 quarts. Unless you have the deep pan, which takes a longer filter tube. As I seen some people put the short one on a long neck pan and the filter does not rest in the fluid right and the reverse is true. You can not put a long neck filter on a short pan. As it will hit the filter pickup tube first.
And Ford transmission fluid is cheap at $5.00 a quart and never had an issue.
+Claude “Reviews4U” Rains if you install the filter straight like I show there is no need to index or align the filter to any bolt the pickup spout is the only part that sticks down and will drop into the sump as you put the pan up so it's pretty hard to crush the filter unless it way off in there. Also there is no drain on this torque converter therefore I didn't drain it. What you have to realize is Ford will continue to use the old style bellhousing with rubber plug because it's cheaper it doesn't automatically mean there is a drain. I haven't see t/c drain plugs since the early 2000's this was a 2005.
Tried today. IMPOSSIBLE. To get to the back two bolts by the crossmember. Transmission mount installed backwards?
My 1996 Ford F-150 4x4 is like that. I had to take out all the transmission crossmember bolts and move the crossmember to get enough clearance to get to those 2 pan bolts. Was wondering if my truck was the only one like that.
The motor in my 2001f-150 5.4L was changed but not sure about transmission. Transmission was slipping so I changed filter and fluid. Fluid was nasty by the way. Afterwards I drove truck seemed to be doing fine but started slipping again and while on the side of the road I noticed major fluid leak. Where could this be coming from and could over filling cause this? My truck is 2001 f150 5.4 but engine replaced was 1G876AA which seemed to be 1999. Transmission pan has an S on it. My question is what type ATF Sho uld I be using and where could the fluid pouring out from? It does have overdrive and once hot is when it slipped, after cooling it didn't make it far at all before slipping to no go. Transmission had 14 bolts and shallow and truck is 4WD. I really trust your opinion as I have fixed 2 heads with Calvin kit and front end work and your videos were perfect, thanks for putting this out there, extremely helpful.
Yet another excellent video. Thorough and easy to understand. I was going to have the stealership do it, but now I'm going to do it myself this weekend. Ya buddy
Nice informative video. Wish my 1996 Ford F-150 4X4 was that easy. Transmission crossmember won't allow you to get to all the bolts so it made the job much more difficult. Do you recommend draining the torque converter also ?
So what's better, flushing and not dropping the pan or dropping the pan and changing the filter or both?
FordTechMakuloco - Thank you... thank you... and thank you. I fooled around with that freakin' yellow plug for 30 minutes until I remembered your channel and thought you "might" have info on what the hell that plug is and where does it belong. So again thank you for the info. I now know where the plug belongs and it ain't in my transmission.
My 2 cents, buy a pan with a drain plug, or add one with s step drill. I guess the 50 cents per vehicle for a drain plug was too much to ask Ford to put on my $35,000- 2004 truck. It now has 173, 000 miles, and runs like a watch, thanks to Brian. Every video nails the CSI (CONSTUCTION SPECIFICATIONS INSTITUTE) 4C rules: Clear, Concise, Correct, and Complete.
In your opinion, do you think there are certain conditions where transmission fluid should be left alone? I know there is a huge debate on changing transmission fluid on higher mileage vehicles that have a transmission that wasn't maintained. I got a 09 Grand Marquis with 120K with no service history on it, and I'm debating on dropping the pan and doing a fluid and filter change. The fluid is still rather pink.
Also, when changing transmission fluid, does it matter if you change the fluid when the transmission is cold or at operating temperature?
Changing the fluid shouldn’t do anything disruptive but transmission fluid flushes can definitely cause issues
I've found those 4R70W filters floating in the pan. I always buy the motorcraft filter, but I worry it will fall off.
This guy is awesome
Would you take the time to change any of the shift solenoids at this point since you're already there? My 05 Crown Vic Interceptor has an issue with shifting to different gears oddly when driving and I was thinking about doing a flush, filter and solenoid replacement. Thoughts?
Thank you for indicating what the yellow plug actually is. I had dropped my pan and had no idea where the plastic plug had came from.
chris travis I did the same thing saw the yellow plug and it drove me crazy trying to find where it came from l
Mine was in the filter hole where it goes up in the tranny. Kinda gives me a false sense of security thinking that was the issue of my 03 Mustang acting like it had a 5k stall converter.
Maybe someone had it apart before and found a place it fits lmao
Most people don't know about the yellow dipstick tube plug. I don't know how many people have told me they routinely changed their transmission fluid and filter and they should not be having problems. We take the pan off and bam, there is the yellow plug, haha.
My 2007 f150 4x4 5.8 flex/at is at 70k. I'm going to do a filter and 5qt change like your video shows... Is there any merit to doing a full system flush like other videos show? I don't have any issues except very minor trans slip at high way speed when it's trying to decide which gear to coast in, usually at about 70 mph.
which is better, to change 13.9+/- than 5? Why add a new filter when you are only changing out 5 qts. if ATF?
p. m. And a trans flush isn’t good on your transmission
Does the 2005 5.4 3v have the same transmission filter? Amazon is staying the one listed doesn’t fit my truck.
Good job, thank you, off to do my own now, cheers!
It truly baffles me that changing out the transmission fluid is not more of an emphasis than it is, at least seemingly. I just changed out the transmission fluid in my 2004 Ford 5.4 L F150, and though it’s still had a red tint to it, I could definitely tell it it had not been changed, at least for a long while. Then I pulled the pan completely off and realize the yellow plug was still in it and that would go to mean that for the last 20 years and 160,000 miles, it has not been changed once. sheesh! 😅 (I’ve only owned it for a few years, and hadn’t even thought about changing the transmission fluid, until I started noticing some symptoms I began to research, and now those symptoms are cleaning up perceptively nicely after the change.)
Thanks for the great video! Perhaps a silly question but am looking for a video about draining and refilling the torque converter in my 1995 F150 4R70W. Drain plug was loose in mine and it lost quite a bit of fluid. Do I refill it through the transmission dipstick or do I pump fluid into the converter like is done to a rear axle assembly? Thanks again!
What did you find out? I took out my fill plug and had some leak out probably because the fluid was still hot and expanded and not sure if I need to refill it there while cold or just by adding at atf fill tube under hood
Any advice or tips ? Did yours hold up ? Do you try somehow refilling at the drain plug on the torque converter as much as what comes out ? My truck is at 230k an is brown when checking the dipstick I bought it needing motor rebuilt an almost finished with that pain .
I've done this 5 or 6 times on my 02 F150. It's got 250k+ miles now. I'm hesitant to do it again though, as the last time I had trouble with the bolts stripping out the threads of the transmission casing. I think at least 2, maybe 3 are stripped now. Fortunately it doesn't leak. I'm wondering what my options are. I figure if I can drill through the pan and install a drain plug, then I can at least change the fluid without dropping the pan. Or course the filter would stay. What about a tap and die set to 'recreate' the threads?? Any recommendations? Thanks!
What did you end up doing brochacho? My expedition is a beach toy/cabana and basically lives in the Atlantic ocean. I'm gonna hit them with some liquid wrench when they are hot and cool. Trying to locate a Amazon prime pan with the drain plug already installed. I don't want to drill my own. I already got a high quality filter and new gasket. Enough for 2 drain and fills and a bottle of lubraguard. I'm also planning to do the high output speed sensor since I throw that code every few months and have the new oem part.
Nice video, but I think the best way to do this, is to drill the pan using a 1/4 inch drill bit, right behind that square lump. Then install a $9 dollar stainless steel drain plug. No mess, easy next time transmission service.
Do any of you think changing trans fluid in vehicle that never got it done last 200,000 should be done or would this really cause issue later ?
Do you recommend doing it on '04 Ford Expedition that I bought used? It has 195,000 miles on it, bought at 188,000 & don't know if it has ever been done, thanks & love the videos
So, that filter gasket. Last time I put on a new trans filter, I didnt take out the gasket or check to see if it was still in there. This was a few years ago and haven't had any issues. Did I do any damage or is there anything I should be worried about? I'll be doing my drain and fill as well as my trans filter this weekend, which is what I do every few years years. Thank you.
Your videos are amazing
Is this shop near a basketball court or that some other noise I heard during this recording.
Hi friend, this is a great video and wanted to mentioned that I had a small accident with my 2005 4x4 F150 (broke the oil cooler and the oil leaked while driving), after a few miles I stopped and had to be towed back home. I'm in Canada and the truck has 270,000 km, got it one year ago and don't know any mechanic history of it at all. I have the new oil cooler and wanted to know if I should change the filter now that is "empty", and if you know how much oil I may have lost and how much oil would require to bring it to the correct level?
Would you recommend tightening any of the bolts under the filter on the valve body?
No
Really enjoy your videos and i watch them regularly… I’m a long time Ford man. I have a custom built 55’ F100 with a 96’ CV p-71 drive train. The 4R70W has a custom dipstick and i can’t find info on exactly the depth of fluid should be in the pan. Anyone know that info? I’m asking because i has fluid dripping a little out the end of the output yoke. I had to hear the ujoint to get the old one out and the plug melted out. I welded it and had to seal it with epoxy to stop it, but i get a little dripping from the rear seal now🤷🏻♂️. I have a little play in the output yoke, but it was professionally rebuilt many years ago but has only a few miles on it as i have just finished the truck after 13yrs🥴. Keep fixing them Fords! Thanks
Great vid. I had quick question?
I have a 2008 F150 5.4 2wd with 180k miles. it runs good but i dont think the transmission oil has never been changed. should i chang it or just let it be.
Thanks
ljimz31208 lj probably change just for preventive maintenance
TheManInDboX: True, but why not sneak up on it and remove 1qts; add 1qts. Repeat....
You really won't know until you see that plastic yellow plug in the pan. Imagine how clogged your filter would be. I'd change it all including the torque converter
Easy! Don't throw away the old fluid, till you find or not the yellow plug!
@ I got a 03 at 270k. Figure that applies to mine too.
Great video man, thanks so much!
is there a way to diy flush more than just the pan fluid on a 2005?
Great vid but may ad you should make sure all the valve body bolts are tight to spec. They have a tendency to loosen up causing possible internal pressure leaks.
How’s it going today? Don’t know if you’ll see this seeing that this video is pretty old. If so, I really hope you respond. I have a 2004 Eddie Bauer expedition 5.4l. When in drive it doesn’t catch gear or something, it does go forward slowly, then catches the first gear when the truck warms a bit. I can barely push the gas pedal and I can feel it go into drive. But after a few minutes everything does great. It’s only the first gear that takes a while to catch. All other gears work fine. And now the O/D light comes on and off sometimes. I’m more than capable of repairing it myself. I just need to know what’s the problem. And I have no idea what it is. I’m learning so I can stay away from shops. Please help as this is my only vehicle at the moment. And thank you so much for your time if you respond.
I did everything just like the video, but I have this aching feeling I didn’t push the filter in all the way. Does it get to like a recessed portion and kind of lock in? I pushed it on initially and it looked kind of droopy so then I just pushed it harder and feel like it looked just like the video but my gut tells me that wasn’t enough like it might come off. And it looks like the filter is also the oil pick up. Does installing the oil pan back on lock the filter in place? Thank you
Not sure why they made the filter on the 70rw like that, on the AOD's the filter goes in with 2 bolts so you know its nice and secured.
2010 sport trac, no dip stick or fill tube. Can I tap the side of the pan and add one.
Thanks for your input.
I know this is an older video, but I have a 2010 f150 4.6W w/4spd auto. The trans has started to click when placing into reverse. Also I can feel a very slight shudder or vibration in the 1-2 shift. Any thoughts?
Is it safe to change the transmission fluid with high miles if it's never been changed before?
yep, a pan drop and filter change will not hurt anything. do not do a pressurized machine flush on a high mileage trans.
I've seen a similar video that first disconnected the transmission line coming from the cooler and then started the vehicle. It was run briefly to drain some of the trans fluid before removing the pan thus making it less messy proposition. In your opinion would that be okay to do?
A nut driver really helps starting the trans bolts instead of using fingers. how about trying to get the old fluid out after you do this by capturing the return line before it comes back to the trans? Like using a 2 litre soda bottle at idle . stop and add fluid start and run till clean fluid comes out? I don't know which is the return line on this unit
While you were there with the pan down, why didn't install a drain plug? They are super easy and make draining the pan so much less messy!
+bcab abcb it was a customers vehicle.
How does one feel about the WIX filter? I already purchased one but delayed my trans fluid and filter change due to hearing people say use only Ford filter. I know WIX is a reputable brand when it comes to filters.
I would NEVER reuse ANY transmission pan gasket. That goes against all 10 years of my experience working with transmissions.
It's reusable
I'm sure it's possible especially if the pan was over torqued. I took mine off at 156k and it was mint. I just did a video of it.
The rubber ones that come with the filter are complete junk, I've reused these OEM kind several times no problem at all. On GM's and Fords.
They reuse just fine. But I still change mine every other time.
Ford literally made the 4R gaskets reusable
Can you settle the cooler lines question on the 4R transmissions? Is the upper or lower line into the radiator the "return" where you would disconnect and add in your exterior transmission cooler?
I bought a used 2005 F150 5.4L in excellent condition. The truck has 237xxx miles, but the engine has about 80,000 miles. I don't know if the transmission has been changed or not. It appears to be fairly new (Its really shiny). But anyway my question is should I get the trans fluid changed or leave it alone? Oil is not "hot pink", just a shade darker than pink and it doesn't have a burnt smell either...really need this advice
yes
My dad is giving me his old 2002 Ford Expedition 5.4L V8. It has the 226k miles and said he's never had the trans fluid changed. When I checked the dipstick it was still dark red. It doesn't smell burnt or anything. Do you think it's safe to change the fluid at this point?
How long is the break in period???
I notice at first my gears were slippery