Early versions of that caliper seemed to have a very tough coating (possibly anodised). Later ones had a powder coat finish and it flakes off - yours wasn’t too bad compared to many! During lockdown I got bored and bought 5 cheap rs125 calipers to rebuild - one was awful, one not great and 3 ok and worth rebuilding (2 poor ones I Cerakoted in pink just for amusement)
I have an impact hammer but only really had success in the past with larger diameter bolts (many years of seized disc retaining screws on cars rounding off 😭)
@@stoneautomotive i've bought mine for the restoration of my Aprilia RS 250, and it works even with small screws with threadlocker. It doesn't save the screw itself but it removes it efficiently :D
I have a nightmare with snapped bolts had to drill the hole out and use a nut and bolt then someone said 2 months later use heli coil or use a tap and die set 😢bit late I've already sorted now
Your videos come across as 'everyman' fix and restoration, which is why they are so good !, a level we could all achieve, and as you say, in our own garages - perfect, you do not need perfection.
This bike is the GOAT (I own two) the fairing screw 11:20 are always withering away. I had to drill them out on both of mine and tap larger holes (dont forget the anti seize or use stainless steel bolts) The bolts you will have to be really carefull aswell are these for the brakediscs. I had to scrap one wheel because a screw just wouldnt budge. WD-40, Heat and an impact work out I can recommend adding a bigger radiator from robyn racing, they arent too expensive and fit really nice. As this bike tends to run hot in the blazing heat especially in the city, you can also add a spal fan with a 75-82°C Temp-Switch. You wont need a relais as the fan you will be using isnt pulling much amps alltho youd have to connect them to a fuse. That has been working out great for me
I’m hoping the disc bolts come out easily enough but if not I thankfully have the spare wheel at my disposal 😬👍 Cooling shouldn’t be an issue as it will be only used for early morning weekend pleasure rides 👌
Use a proper penetrating oil instead of WD-40. In Australia we have a product called "shift ya bastard" available from auto parts shops. I rarely use WD-40 these days.
Regarding the broken bolt in the fork leg, was the leg of the other RS125 not better (or maybe the mudguard support had been shaved for their cafe racer look?)
Sadly the fork tubes and lowers on the first bike have all been polished, really wanted to keep the forks black.. annoying but thankfully enough room for a small 5mm nut on the back of the fender 👍
Guess it depends on the use of the bike? For me it’s a road toy so doesn’t need the latest and greatest handling as she’ll just be for the odd Sunday morning please blast 😬
Nut and bolt on the front mud guard will be fugly, I know you cannot see it, but you will know its there, would a bushing or a heli-coil not work better, Also when the bolt is a different metal to the frame heat is your friend as they expand at different rates. Thanks. Keep up the great work love the videos.
With that broken bolt you might get away with just tapping the hole that you've drilled? If you've got a welder you might have been able to weld a nut on the broken bit before it snapped off. This has the benefit of putting a sh!t load of heat into the bolt without scorching the fork legs.
Thanks and glad to hear 😎 I haven’t got the link for the exact one o bought but looks identical to this - www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353554154554?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=h0tefew-qjq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CKFRglVnR7S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
Love this series. Will have to do my RS125 one day. Just a note (you probably know) loosen the upper fork pinch bolts before loosening fork caps or one can mess up the threads. 🙂
All good here mate, hope you and the Mrs are great too. I've been following along with your builds, it's good to see you showing it doesn't take a load of expensive tools, a fully equipped workshop or huge costs to get these projects back up and running. Keep it up! Just throw some dust covers over the collectables 😂👍
Great video, very entertaining as well as with a good level of information being shared. Keep it up! When you undo your fork caps, if you first loosen the top yoke/triple tree pinch bolts you will have less resistance working against you. 🤙🏽
Feel your pain on them bolts...awesome job on the master cylinder and brakes....and the sub frame is looking excellent..great work. Enjoying this restoration. Cant wait for the next vid...👍👍👍
With your fork top caps, undo the top triple pinch bolts first... The top caps don't require a lot of torque, but the top clamps wedge the threads which can cause galling, especially if you're needing a breaker bar to undo them.
That front fender bolt got me frustrated , but you did handle it like a champ. Cannot wait for the next one, RS125 gonna be super 'clean' with that fiberglass. Cheers!
Another great video yet again mate and love the fact you showing us what you can achieve at home instead of taking things to places and letting others do it which can cost more and reminds me i need to get some more asf50 on my m3 under carriage nuts and bolts 😅
Great work. Really enjoy the updates.
Glad to hear 👌😎
Early versions of that caliper seemed to have a very tough coating (possibly anodised). Later ones had a powder coat finish and it flakes off - yours wasn’t too bad compared to many! During lockdown I got bored and bought 5 cheap rs125 calipers to rebuild - one was awful, one not great and 3 ok and worth rebuilding (2 poor ones I Cerakoted in pink just for amusement)
For the rusted bolts I usually use an impact screwdriver, it works very well, I use it often during my restoration projects. Cheers from Italy.
I have an impact hammer but only really had success in the past with larger diameter bolts (many years of seized disc retaining screws on cars rounding off 😭)
@@stoneautomotive i've bought mine for the restoration of my Aprilia RS 250, and it works even with small screws with threadlocker. It doesn't save the screw itself but it removes it efficiently :D
I have a nightmare with snapped bolts had to drill the hole out and use a nut and bolt then someone said 2 months later use heli coil or use a tap and die set 😢bit late I've already sorted now
Try and use a helicoil to repair the fork leg thread 👍
Dream bike again rs125
Your videos come across as 'everyman' fix and restoration, which is why they are so good !, a level we could all achieve, and as you say, in our own garages - perfect, you do not need perfection.
Glad to hear 👌👌😎
This bike is the GOAT (I own two)
the fairing screw 11:20 are always withering away. I had to drill them out on both of mine and tap larger holes (dont forget the anti seize or use stainless steel bolts)
The bolts you will have to be really carefull aswell are these for the brakediscs. I had to scrap one wheel because a screw just wouldnt budge. WD-40, Heat and an impact work out
I can recommend adding a bigger radiator from robyn racing, they arent too expensive and fit really nice.
As this bike tends to run hot in the blazing heat especially in the city, you can also add a spal fan with a 75-82°C Temp-Switch. You wont need a relais as the fan you will be using isnt pulling much amps alltho youd have to connect them to a fuse. That has been working out great for me
I’m hoping the disc bolts come out easily enough but if not I thankfully have the spare wheel at my disposal 😬👍
Cooling shouldn’t be an issue as it will be only used for early morning weekend pleasure rides 👌
Use a proper penetrating oil instead of WD-40. In Australia we have a product called "shift ya bastard" available from auto parts shops. I rarely use WD-40 these days.
Never heard of that, problem is people are to easily offended in the UK these days so we only have access to watered down stuff 😅
We need more loving this build series
Thanks mate, the series started strong but views seem less and less each episode, just never manage to crack the UA-cam code 😅
Regarding the broken bolt in the fork leg, was the leg of the other RS125 not better (or maybe the mudguard support had been shaved for their cafe racer look?)
Sadly the fork tubes and lowers on the first bike have all been polished, really wanted to keep the forks black.. annoying but thankfully enough room for a small 5mm nut on the back of the fender 👍
I’ve got one. Was thinking of redoing the forks with an adjustable kit (I’m not built like Rossi)… thoughts?
Guess it depends on the use of the bike? For me it’s a road toy so doesn’t need the latest and greatest handling as she’ll just be for the odd Sunday morning please blast 😬
Nut and bolt on the front mud guard will be fugly, I know you cannot see it, but you will know its there, would a bushing or a heli-coil not work better, Also when the bolt is a different metal to the frame heat is your friend as they expand at different rates. Thanks. Keep up the great work love the videos.
I know exactly what you mean, I had considered a helicoil
Yep, totally agree with doing it yourself, good job 👏🏻👍🏻
Thank you 😎👍
With that broken bolt you might get away with just tapping the hole that you've drilled?
If you've got a welder you might have been able to weld a nut on the broken bit before it snapped off. This has the benefit of putting a sh!t load of heat into the bolt without scorching the fork legs.
Yes it could still be tapped but would now be to bigger bolt ☹️ Heli coil is another good option (least of the projects worries at the moment 😅)
Never seen anyone put the seals in first. Before the legs. But it's a good idea.
Some days it's definitely a struggle.
I guess it all depends on the fork design, thankfully in this case a really easy and straight forward job 👍
Do you remember the torque settings for the brake calipers bolts?
Sadly not, it’s all in the Haynes manual or online 👍
Love the videos matey. Have you got a link for your brake vacuum bleeder?
Thanks and glad to hear 😎
I haven’t got the link for the exact one o bought but looks identical to this -
www.ebay.co.uk/itm/353554154554?mkcid=16&mkevt=1&mkrid=711-127632-2357-0&ssspo=h0tefew-qjq&sssrc=4429486&ssuid=CKFRglVnR7S&var=&widget_ver=artemis&media=COPY
What are you going to do with the fairings off the bike are you intrested in selling them?
I’ll be selling the entire left overs as a job lot at the end of the project, I need the fuel tank but the rest of it will be for sale 👍
Excellant video dude.nice editing
Thanks Peter and glad you appreciated the work 😎👍
I always wanted one of these.! Enjoying this one 👍🏻
Glad to hear 😎👌
Congratulations on your courage, you have been valiant!
Thanks 😬
Never heard of an issue with red greece before but good to know.
Same 🤷♂️
Love this series. Will have to do my RS125 one day.
Just a note (you probably know) loosen the upper fork pinch bolts before loosening fork caps or one can mess up the threads. 🙂
Glad to hear 😎👍
It’s not something I had even thought about but your not the first to advise regarding the fork caps 😅👍
@@stoneautomotive Been there, done that 🙂
Drilling and grinding next to the uncovered 748 makes me >_< 😂
No Ducatis were harmed in the making of this series 😅
How you been stranger??
All good here mate, hope you and the Mrs are great too.
I've been following along with your builds, it's good to see you showing it doesn't take a load of expensive tools, a fully equipped workshop or huge costs to get these projects back up and running. Keep it up!
Just throw some dust covers over the collectables 😂👍
Great video, very entertaining as well as with a good level of information being shared. Keep it up!
When you undo your fork caps, if you first loosen the top yoke/triple tree pinch bolts you will have less resistance working against you. 🤙🏽
Glad to hear 😎👍
Good tip regarding the fork caps 👌
Feel your pain on them bolts...awesome job on the master cylinder and brakes....and the sub frame is looking excellent..great work. Enjoying this restoration. Cant wait for the next vid...👍👍👍
I think we’ve all been there with seized bolts 😅
Glad your enjoying the series, plenty more to come 😬
Tip for you with reservoir bottles…dishwasher 😉
Do not use those powerball ones tho
The good lady is pretty understanding.. I think motorcycle parts in the dish washer maybe a step too far 😅
With your fork top caps, undo the top triple pinch bolts first... The top caps don't require a lot of torque, but the top clamps wedge the threads which can cause galling, especially if you're needing a breaker bar to undo them.
Good to know 👍
That front fender bolt got me frustrated , but you did handle it like a champ.
Cannot wait for the next one, RS125 gonna be super 'clean' with that fiberglass. Cheers!
These things are sent here to test us 😅👍
Body work should be two episodes time
😬😎
Another great video yet again mate and love the fact you showing us what you can achieve at home instead of taking things to places and letting others do it which can cost more and reminds me i need to get some more asf50 on my m3 under carriage nuts and bolts 😅
Cheers mate 😎👍
Nice product placement….😜
I have no idea what you’re going on about…….. 😅
@@stoneautomotive Nexx
@@nigelstacey5612 I was joking 😂
@@stoneautomotive Did you have the helmet on the shelf in the garage also?🤣😂 Nice work on the bikes chap, really enjoying the vids.
Great work... enjoying the series 😀
Thanks & glad to hear 😎👍
Love your music aswel so relaxing
Glad to hear, many dislike it but pleasures of UA-cam and copy right 😭
U are smashing it mate don't worry
Cheers mate 😎👍
Good job , you're getting there !
Can’t wait to have it on the road 😬
It’s looking good #rs125
Thank you 😎
First here first comment!
Do you know what grit to sand a swingarm to grit that brushed look?
Will be in the next video as I have a play with leaving it in the brushed finish but essentially 400 wet and dry gives a good finish
Love your videos mate !
Thanks mate & glad to hear 😎👍