Hello from Germany, it is nice to follow you on your work, saving such an nice bike. I own an original 1968 Commando for about 6 years now. When I bought it, it came with the original '68 frame, which was in fine shape. I tend to use my old motorcycles as if they were new ones, at least in summer. That means driving to work, going on vacations, touring on weekends, etc. As an average I am touring between 2000km - 5000km on each of my Nortons per year all over Europe (a have a Norton 99 too). The frame on my Commando lasted 4 years, than it broke. It was not a big deal, no dramatic collapse of the headstock, no accident, or something else. Because I knew about the reputation of the '68 frames, I checked the frame tubes regularly, so one day I noticed something what first appeared as a scratch on one of the downtubes (another famous spot for cracks in these frames), but examination with a magnifier revealed a crack which was nearly all around the tube already. So I replaced the original frame with one from '69. Which I had had lying around already - the bad reputation, you know...🤨 You can use the original frame surely, if you plan to took the bike out only for short runs, the frame will probably last for many years . If you plan to sell the bike after restoration, a collector will of course admire an all original bike. But if you plan to use the bike in a proper way 🙂, go in search for a later frame. Preferably an early '69. Not to mention, using the bike with a later frame makes the rides quite more relaxed, not every pothole is a potential hazard anymore... I am looking forward for the next episodes on these chanel. Go ahead with your fine work!
Thank you Lienst. Very entertaining reading. I’m impressed that you ride them so much. I am behind on the Norton now but once the VFRs are out of the workshop then the Norton will be assembled. Not far and of course I will share it with you. Thanks for chipping in. Oh keep watching. After the Norton I have 2 special bikes…
I've built a few cafe racers and trackers but they have always been a Japanese bike. I'm planning on looking at a 68 Fastback today that looks like a good base for a resto project. Your videos are making it hard for me to say no to this Norton I'm looking at. Great work! From one wrench to another. Your videos are a great inspiration!
Wow! 68? Please find out the serial number? I’m claiming mine to be the oldest surviving. I’m not bothered if I’m pipped. Just interesting to see what is out there! It’s loaded with charm. That’s the difference..
@@MyRestoration1 I went and looked at it. It is a beauty but she definitely needs work. The frame number is "127374" on the stem. I plan on picking it up over the weekend.
@@Malarky49 excellent that is about 1000 ish later than mine but still a super early Commando. So old in fact they were not known as the ‘Fastback’ yet. Happy days!
Very good point Bill. Unfortunately I can’t show the detection systems we use at CBR because they are unique to our processing fracture detection. A much more definitive process but yes in most cases the dye detection to a very good way but with the weld scarring might make it slightly trickier..I don’t have much experience with dye detection.
I can see I’m going to get this comment a lot! Bare in mind the factory did have perfect parts to spray. If that was the case here we would not go through all the processes required to hide defects.
Ethanol is bad. i have several machines with fiberglass fuel tanks, they have pin holes, So i will just use gas with no ethanol in these machines. Ethanol dissolves many fiberglass over time
In this case that is not entirely correct Indy. The resin lining will do as well in fibreglass as with steel. I don’t know what gel coats do from back then but if lined, no problem. Thanks for chiming in 👍
@@MyRestoration1 So glad you have lined the tank. Yes, it is not the fibreglass that is the issue, just hte type of resin used, polyester, that is sensitive to modern fuels. Really important to try to get best possible adhesion to the original inner surface by abrasion using some kind of ceramic beads or metal nuts & screws and lots of tumbling for a few hours. Then the epoxy coating has much better chance to adhere. Epoxy is used all the time in the marine industry to repair polyester boat hulls etc. Key is to have a roughened surface.
Looking good, can't wait to see the seat unit. 👍🇬🇧
Don’t make me nervous! But I’m quite determined to make sure it fits correctly! Thanks for chipping in
Hello from Germany, it is nice to follow you on your work, saving such an nice bike. I own an original 1968 Commando for about 6 years now. When I bought it, it came with the original '68 frame, which was in fine shape. I tend to use my old motorcycles as if they were new ones, at least in summer. That means driving to work, going on vacations, touring on weekends, etc. As an average I am touring between 2000km - 5000km on each of my Nortons per year all over Europe (a have a Norton 99 too).
The frame on my Commando lasted 4 years, than it broke. It was not a big deal, no dramatic collapse of the headstock, no accident, or something else. Because I knew about the reputation of the '68 frames, I checked the frame tubes regularly, so one day I noticed something what first appeared as a scratch on one of the downtubes (another famous spot for cracks in these frames), but examination with a magnifier revealed a crack which was nearly all around the tube already. So I replaced the original frame with one from '69. Which I had had lying around already - the bad reputation, you know...🤨
You can use the original frame surely, if you plan to took the bike out only for short runs, the frame will probably last for many years . If you plan to sell the bike after restoration, a collector will of course admire an all original bike. But if you plan to use the bike in a proper way 🙂, go in search for a later frame. Preferably an early '69. Not to mention, using the bike with a later frame makes the rides quite more relaxed, not every pothole is a potential hazard anymore...
I am looking forward for the next episodes on these chanel. Go ahead with your fine work!
Thank you Lienst. Very entertaining reading. I’m impressed that you ride them so much. I am behind on the Norton now but once the VFRs are out of the workshop then the Norton will be assembled. Not far and of course I will share it with you. Thanks for chipping in. Oh keep watching. After the Norton I have 2 special bikes…
I've built a few cafe racers and trackers but they have always been a Japanese bike. I'm planning on looking at a 68 Fastback today that looks like a good base for a resto project. Your videos are making it hard for me to say no to this Norton I'm looking at. Great work! From one wrench to another. Your videos are a great inspiration!
Wow! 68? Please find out the serial number? I’m claiming mine to be the oldest surviving. I’m not bothered if I’m pipped. Just interesting to see what is out there! It’s loaded with charm. That’s the difference..
I'm in the US so I'm curious to see this bike's history as well. I will post it after I see it today. I love my bikes with character.
@@Malarky49 one thing to remember. The US had the oldest Commandos around. You might find a gem. Good luck and keep us posted Calvin 👍
@@MyRestoration1 I went and looked at it. It is a beauty but she definitely needs work. The frame number is "127374" on the stem. I plan on picking it up over the weekend.
@@Malarky49 excellent that is about 1000 ish later than mine but still a super early Commando. So old in fact they were not known as the ‘Fastback’ yet. Happy days!
Best bike ive ever owned was a 2001 VFR800 FI. Still kicking myself for selling that bike...
I’m excited to ride it. But it’s fighting me at the moment. Thanks for your comment Nifilheimur
Would it not have been prudent to use a dyeline cracked detection method as this will show up cracks not visible to the human eye?
Very good point Bill. Unfortunately I can’t show the detection systems we use at CBR because they are unique to our processing fracture detection. A much more definitive process but yes in most cases the dye detection to a very good way but with the weld scarring might make it slightly trickier..I don’t have much experience with dye detection.
The paint job is better than the factory one !
I can see I’m going to get this comment a lot! Bare in mind the factory did have perfect parts to spray. If that was the case here we would not go through all the processes required to hide defects.
Ethanol is bad. i have several machines with fiberglass fuel tanks, they have pin holes, So i will just use gas with no ethanol in these machines. Ethanol dissolves many fiberglass over time
In this case that is not entirely correct Indy. The resin lining will do as well in fibreglass as with steel. I don’t know what gel coats do from back then but if lined, no problem. Thanks for chiming in 👍
@@MyRestoration1 i agree with you . i just give my experience . Mostly to people with fuel tanks that do not leak
@@MyRestoration1 i agree, with leaks a lining is needed, but better to just use gas with no ethanol if no leaks. i have 4 machines. 2 have leaks .
@@MyRestoration1 So glad you have lined the tank. Yes, it is not the fibreglass that is the issue, just hte type of resin used, polyester, that is sensitive to modern fuels. Really important to try to get best possible adhesion to the original inner surface by abrasion using some kind of ceramic beads or metal nuts & screws and lots of tumbling for a few hours. Then the epoxy coating has much better chance to adhere. Epoxy is used all the time in the marine industry to repair polyester boat hulls etc. Key is to have a roughened surface.