***** No i'll intent meant, you offer great tips and theory in all your videos and it is very much appreciated. It's just this great 5 minute tip is contained inside an almost 17 minute long video. A little brevity would be welcome, for me at least.
Brilliant! I love night time photography for the wonderful atmosphere and the lush colors, but noise is a perennial problem. This is a wonderful help! Cheers, mate! John
I have been inspired by Serge Ramelli for the last five years now and I have learned photography skills and editing from his great tutorial videos. I was very lucky having had the chance to meet Serge Ramelli in Dubai in early January 2020. Hope to meet him again in the Future :).Bonjour Madame et Monsieur :)
Astro-photographers have been doing this technique for quite a while. Usually using 20+ images. Works pretty darn well. Also good to mimic a long exposure/ND filter for stuff such as waterfalls.
Holy crap this was a great video man! :) I'm a fan of you. The Landscape Masterclass part looked extremely interesting. Cheers from a photographer from Finland! :)
Astronomers have learned this same technique to correct atmospheric disturbance in star photography. I think planetary probes also use this to get photos at a much higher quality than the spacecraft cameras should be capable of. Thanks for this!
You are the best photography teacher in the web ! thanks a lot for all your powerful free tutorials ! you teach a lot of great secrets for free :) I've just purchased your new course too Its amazing ! :)
This (stacking) is basic for astrophotographers (and moon). We shoot dozens or hundreds of images and stack them, usually with PIPP, AutoStackert and Registax (all free). Total exposure time sometimes can be many hours for DSO's (Deep Sky Objects (star clusters, nebulae, galaxies).
oh boy, you just confirmed a theory I had about stacking for noise reduction. My theory was, if it works for astrophotography. why wouldn't it work for this? Thanks, and keep up with the tutorials...
I have a Sony compact camera that has a low light mode where it takes several shots and integrates them together - it works very well. This looks to be very similar. Great idea.
I am very glad I came across this. I've been doing photography for years but have only been using an iPhone. After similar feedback, I decided to upgrade to a DSLR (EOS 5D Mark IV) which is very new territory for me. I have the eye for it but everything you're discussing are things I'm trying to learn. Especially before my move to Sweden in March. I view this as an investment rather than an expense
Jeremy Permenter One does not simply upgrade from an iPhone to a $3500 Canon 5d Mark IV. That's an insane transition. Good luck. A tip: If you can afford that body, all I can say is buy quality glass. Look into canons L glass range. With a body that expensive don't buy cheap glass. Invest in quality glass. Cheers and have fun shooting!
GTAX Crew Shenanigans yeah, I know it's a crazy transition but I have my reasons. I'm getting the $4600 kit that comes with the 24-105 mm lens and take it from there.
Same, I have been doing photography for 2 years with my LG G3. Tomorrow Im going to buy a Nikon D5000. And welcome to Sweden! Do you mind if I ask what city you are moving to?
I’ve subscribed and have just seen this. I like the what you have achieved without a long-exposure and tripod - one of the benefits of image stabilisation and burst modes on modern cameras. From a maths perspective, I suspect that median is less effective than mean in improving the signal-to-noise because the former probably takes the middle value with its associated noise from all the images while the latter probably averages the values which reduces the noise by the reciprocal of the square root of the number of images (if you have four images the noise is halved, nine images the noise is one-third etc). At this point, I only have Lightroom rather than Photoshop and hope you will forgive my questions below (I’ll probably sign up). Question 1: in practice, have you found mean more effective than median? The challenge is to take enough images to reduce the noise while avoiding ‘blur’ in moving objectives (like the boat in Venice). Question 2: have you compared the effect of using different numbers of images? Question 3: have you considered using a larger number of images for slow moving objects and a smaller number of images for fast moving objects in the same photo (using layers of layers … is this even possible)? Thank you.
Nice trick for all Canon and Nikon fans - for users of Sony-Cams f.e. from the 77, 99 and 7 series this is done in the camera in so called "Mult-RM" mode - and is works as well as described here ... ;)
I know this trick and yes, in some ways better not to use tripod, it has its own advantages. Also, with night shots, so easy to get blown highlights and this is also a way to deal with that - underexpose somewhat, correct exposure, have multiple shots to lower noise - a practical and creative way to get something that looks pretty good.
Cool tutorial. I have a 1000 point question, been looking everywhere on the web but couldn't find anything: Would be there a way to do exactly the opposite as "stack mode median", I'll explain my self: Here it takes everything that's uncommon and erase it. I'd like photoshop to keep only what's uncommon. For instance: camera on a tripod, three shots of a room, two shots with an empty room, one shot with a chair in the middle, photoshop keeps only the chair. The person who finds it is a genius :)
love the video and trick. the advertisement at the end sounds very interesting. it looks like a super course to work through. i shoot in m43, will the course still be applicable? many thanks
Super ! je cherche cette méthode depuis un moment , et je viens de la decouvrir pour les astrophoto ! excellent de savoir que ca marche aussi ailleurs ! merciiii !!!
Awesome Serge, love your podcasts please keep it going!! I love shooting at night and get tired of carrying a heavy tripod around. In Manhattan you cant use a tripod unless you have a special permit ectectect. So this is a great alternative.
Hi Serge. You are really getting me interested in being more serious about photography. I've just bought your Lightroom CC training course and once I've mastered that I'll be moving onto more of you courses. Can I ask you a quick question please? I currently have a Canon EOS 1200D, but I'm hoping to upgrade to a Sony A7r2. I use a sigma 18-35mm f1.8 dc hsm art lens, which I use with my 1200D. Unfortunately the 1200D is not a full frame camera like the Sony, do you know if my Sigma lens will work with the Sony? Its a fantastic lens, not to mention quite expensive, and I'd hate to see it go to waste. Thanks for your time Serge.
That's a pretty well known techniques in computational photography. What you do here by hand is what every Google Pixel phone does when you shoot with the HDR+ enabled: burst of (maybe under exposed) photos and then combine them. Everything requires less then 2s thanks to the dedicated HW image processor... I'm just wondering why big camera manufacturers do not support these techniques in their firmware. :-/ However, nice video and thanks for sharing.
That's a nice trick. Thank you for sharing. The lense you are using is 15-35F4 so you could go down to 4 instead of 5.6, but I guess you wanted a sharper image.
Hi Serge, Really Love ur videos and planning to purchase your course for Landscaping, but my question is for the HDR part can I use photomatix or do I need to use the same program ? Thank you in Advance.
I like the Photoshop technique and will give a spin. Personally, I would have put the camera onto a handrail, a wall, a trashcan or whatever and used a long exposure time and a low ISO setting.
Hi, I just bought my first camera. I was really taken in by your landscape master class and I want to buy or subscribe to to it to learn more. However, I am a beginner so I need to walk before I can fly. Do you have any recommendations on a beginners course? I need to learn the ins and outs of my camera and what everything means. I have a GH5, what lens would you recommend for getting the kind of pictures that you were demonstrating in this video and that you quickly showed in your landscape masterclass? what lens would be good for general travel pictures? Finally, how much would I need to know about photoshop and lightroom before taking that masterclass? Thank you
Hi Serge, i noticed that you reduce the noise in one of the 5 pictures in Lightroom before to merge them in Photoshop. Should we have to do the same? Or can we merge all picture in Photoshop and "then" use Lightroom to reduce the noise? Thanks
very interesting video, I think it is a very usefull trick specially for photo with smartphone using fast shot mode and I tried personally with a Note 4 but a small advice layer/smart objects/Stack mode menu is grey out for those not have CS6 extended version like me so I solved in this way: after select all layers I do not transform in smart object but I put the blend in "darken" from the layer tool on the CS6 desktop
Serge, great technique, thank you for sharing. Ihave a question for you, I see that when you open the files as layers in photoshop, the file becomes up to 1.2 gigas in size. What do you do in order to keep file sizes small? do you just print or export to a jpg and erase the TIFF file? thank you
it s astro technique stacking method. I had the idea to use it few monthes ago in dubai where i was not able to use my tripod. I was iso-25600 on 1dx. But don t use noise reduction in lightroom, stacking will ersase it. if you use noise reduction first it smoothes the details of the image. not necessary
thanks for the tutorial. I'm wondering if you can achieve similar results using g HDR mode? pretty much the same concept in averaging pixel values to remove noise and you can adjust the dynamic range steps to be smaller if you want to blend similar exposures.
OK have a question. 3min53 you are on about a photo taken at f5.6 cos that was the lowest you could go but in the EXIF data at the top it shows a 16-35mm f4 lens @ 35mm or am I missing something
Cool tip thanks! Now, again I'm not selling anything, you'd get a clean picture SOOTC shooting at 3200 iso with a Fuji camera instead 😉 Thanks for sharing and good luck with your master class!
Thank you for your tutorial, Serge. Is it possible to merge one of these stacked images into an HDR? When automate HDR asks to open files, I only see one. Is there a way to again seperate the layers so I can do an HDR AND an Auto-alignment? Can you have the best of both worlds?
They serve different purposes mate: Photoshop = editing, manipulation and compositing Lightroom = Raw file editing, colour correction and post-shoot tweaking (such as len corrections and exposure balancing) technically photoshop can used for all those things aswell but the layout is designed to be easier and faster in lightroom and thus is prefered when editing RAWs and multiple photos in a single session.
thanks so much...I have both on my computer with creative cloud...i just have to dive in there and learn! Had a quick question. On doing family shots say 10 to 20 feet away im finding my 50MM has a hard time focusing. Is there another mm lens that could be better for this type of shooting. I want sharp photos. I shoot on tripod but still see one person sharp and the other person right next to them be a bit soft. Help! thanks! -stan
Sadly im not the guy to turn to when it comes to actually taking the photographs, im an editor (primarily photoshop, but on occassion lightroom based), i can advise for days on how to edit your image files, but as for taking the shots themselves its never been my job to actually do so. Peace.
Layers -> Convert to Smart Object. Then Layers -> Smart Objects -> Stack Mode -> Medium. Got it thanks!
You left out auto-aligning the layers before converting to SO, unless there's there a way to do that inside a SO.
"Median" and not medium.
Tom Grubbe q
I agree Serge... the long blobs of light do capture your eyes. The final shot looks magnificent. Very awesome work ...
3:20 - 8.20 all you need to know
Thank you. Love Serge's videos but they are loaded with fluff content.
sorry serge, just remembering how it used to be 4 years ago ;) merci mon ami
***** No i'll intent meant, you offer great tips and theory in all your videos and it is very much appreciated. It's just this great 5 minute tip is contained inside an almost 17 minute long video. A little brevity would be welcome, for me at least.
Thank's !
12/ten Design ni
Brilliant!
I love night time photography for the wonderful atmosphere and the lush colors, but noise is a perennial problem. This is a wonderful help!
Cheers, mate!
John
I have been inspired by Serge Ramelli for the last five years now and I have learned photography skills and editing from his great tutorial videos.
I was very lucky having had the chance to meet Serge Ramelli in Dubai in early January 2020. Hope to meet him again in the Future :).Bonjour Madame et Monsieur :)
Astro-photographers have been doing this technique for quite a while. Usually using 20+ images. Works pretty darn well. Also good to mimic a long exposure/ND filter for stuff such as waterfalls.
Holy crap this was a great video man! :) I'm a fan of you. The Landscape Masterclass part looked extremely interesting. Cheers from a photographer from Finland! :)
Astronomers have learned this same technique to correct atmospheric disturbance in star photography. I think planetary probes also use this to get photos at a much higher quality than the spacecraft cameras should be capable of. Thanks for this!
wow, just thanks!. I'm an amatheur photographer with an EOS 1200d and this trick is awesome, it will be so helpfully in my nightscapes.
Holy mackerel - you have a *lot* to offer, Serge. Astonishing.
Wow, I did not know this trick before - Thanks as always, Serge!!
Okay awesome! ;-) thanks a lot
You are the best photography teacher in the web !
thanks a lot for all your powerful free tutorials !
you teach a lot of great secrets for free :)
I've just purchased your new course too
Its amazing ! :)
Brilliant. This is the same technique I use for star stacking astro shots and that's a great idea to use for this other use case!
LOVE the new set
I am happy to watch your videos tutorial and tips/tricks in youtube. I wish to get more learning from you, Sir ... Thanks for all your nice videos...
This is brilliant. I haven't seen anyone else come up with this technique. Thank you!
I hate carrying a tripod on my trips, so I've been doing handheld shots with obvious amounts of noise. This trick is freaking awesome!
This (stacking) is basic for astrophotographers (and moon). We shoot dozens or hundreds of images and stack them, usually with PIPP, AutoStackert and Registax (all free). Total exposure time sometimes can be many hours for DSO's (Deep Sky Objects (star clusters, nebulae, galaxies).
Yes!
oh boy, you just confirmed a theory I had about stacking for noise reduction. My theory was, if it works for astrophotography. why wouldn't it work for this? Thanks, and keep up with the tutorials...
SERGE, THATS REALY AMAZING!!!!!!!!
Thanks a lot!
I have a Sony compact camera that has a low light mode where it takes several shots and integrates them together - it works very well. This looks to be very similar. Great idea.
I am very glad I came across this. I've been doing photography for years but have only been using an iPhone. After similar feedback, I decided to upgrade to a DSLR (EOS 5D Mark IV) which is very new territory for me. I have the eye for it but everything you're discussing are things I'm trying to learn. Especially before my move to Sweden in March. I view this as an investment rather than an expense
Jeremy Permenter One does not simply upgrade from an iPhone to a $3500 Canon 5d Mark IV. That's an insane transition. Good luck. A tip: If you can afford that body, all I can say is buy quality glass. Look into canons L glass range. With a body that expensive don't buy cheap glass. Invest in quality glass. Cheers and have fun shooting!
GTAX Crew Shenanigans yeah, I know it's a crazy transition but I have my reasons. I'm getting the $4600 kit that comes with the 24-105 mm lens and take it from there.
my thoughts exactly : )
Same, I have been doing photography for 2 years with my LG G3. Tomorrow Im going to buy a Nikon D5000. And welcome to Sweden! Do you mind if I ask what city you are moving to?
Yung Dakki I will be moving to Gothenburg. I am definitely looking forward to it
you are sooo good it bad, I think am gonna use half my vacation studying your work
I’ve subscribed and have just seen this. I like the what you have achieved without a long-exposure and tripod - one of the benefits of image stabilisation and burst modes on modern cameras.
From a maths perspective, I suspect that median is less effective than mean in improving the signal-to-noise because the former probably takes the middle value with its associated noise from all the images while the latter probably averages the values which reduces the noise by the reciprocal of the square root of the number of images (if you have four images the noise is halved, nine images the noise is one-third etc).
At this point, I only have Lightroom rather than Photoshop and hope you will forgive my questions below (I’ll probably sign up).
Question 1: in practice, have you found mean more effective than median?
The challenge is to take enough images to reduce the noise while avoiding ‘blur’ in moving objectives (like the boat in Venice).
Question 2: have you compared the effect of using different numbers of images?
Question 3: have you considered using a larger number of images for slow moving objects and a smaller number of images for fast moving objects in the same photo (using layers of layers … is this even possible)?
Thank you.
Nice trick for all Canon and Nikon fans - for users of Sony-Cams f.e. from the 77, 99 and 7 series this is done in the camera in so called "Mult-RM" mode - and is works as well as described here ... ;)
I know this trick and yes, in some ways better not to use tripod, it has its own advantages. Also, with night shots, so easy to get blown highlights and this is also a way to deal with that - underexpose somewhat, correct exposure, have multiple shots to lower noise - a practical and creative way to get something that looks pretty good.
Sei di grande ispirazione!! Grazie Serge
Da Livigno ITALIA
You are welcome!
Wow! This will come in super-handy!
Thanks, Serge!
The boss! Teaching with understanding and easy to duplicate.
thanks a lot
love that you offer the raw files. Thank you!
Cool tutorial. I have a 1000 point question, been looking everywhere on the web but couldn't find anything: Would be there a way to do exactly the opposite as "stack mode median", I'll explain my self: Here it takes everything that's uncommon and erase it. I'd like photoshop to keep only what's uncommon.
For instance: camera on a tripod, three shots of a room, two shots with an empty room, one shot with a chair in the middle, photoshop keeps only the chair. The person who finds it is a genius :)
That's a very clever technique thanks!
I've been needing to know how to reduce noise in low light photos for a long time. Thank you!
love the video and trick. the advertisement at the end sounds very interesting. it looks like a super course to work through. i shoot in m43, will the course still be applicable? many thanks
Amazing! Cool trick
Super ! je cherche cette méthode depuis un moment , et je viens de la decouvrir pour les astrophoto ! excellent de savoir que ca marche aussi ailleurs ! merciiii !!!
merci pour l'astuce, je vais tester ça!
Great Tut Serge.
Awesome Serge, love your podcasts please keep it going!! I love shooting at night and get tired of carrying a heavy tripod around.
In Manhattan you cant use a tripod unless you have a special permit ectectect. So this is a great alternative.
Wow that's awesome dude 😄
Thanks Serge. I tried one to make. And it works!
Super technique! Peux-tu me dire quel appareil et lens tu utilises ?? Merci d'avance ;)
Like the training. Will watch for sales.
Hi Serge.
You are really getting me interested in being more serious about photography.
I've just bought your Lightroom CC training course and once I've mastered that I'll be moving onto more of you courses.
Can I ask you a quick question please?
I currently have a Canon EOS 1200D, but I'm hoping to upgrade to a Sony A7r2. I use a sigma 18-35mm f1.8 dc hsm art lens, which I use with my 1200D. Unfortunately the 1200D is not a full frame camera like the Sony, do you know if my Sigma lens will work with the Sony? Its a fantastic lens, not to mention quite expensive, and I'd hate to see it go to waste.
Thanks for your time Serge.
Thank uuu very much this is one of the best video tutorials
That's a pretty well known techniques in computational photography. What you do here by hand is what every Google Pixel phone does when you shoot with the HDR+ enabled: burst of (maybe under exposed) photos and then combine them. Everything requires less then 2s thanks to the dedicated HW image processor... I'm just wondering why big camera manufacturers do not support these techniques in their firmware. :-/
However, nice video and thanks for sharing.
can this same trick be used to erase people walking in the shot?? I noticed something disappear on the bridge. Excellent information as always!
Yes, Serge, it works. Makes for a large file size, it seems.
Nice work, Sergio! Thank you!
That's a nice trick. Thank you for sharing. The lense you are using is 15-35F4 so you could go down to 4 instead of 5.6, but I guess you wanted a sharper image.
This is brilliant.
Thanks a lot, Mr. Ramelli. I can't wait to try this.
Some smartphone camera apps also do this. They take around 5 pic at burst and after some "please wait" you get a much clearer image.
why is a 4 min video 16 mins long???
Because he's french ;) they talk way too much and they like wasting other people time
Seriously. Rambling videos like this are awful. Just get to the fucking point.
Nicely done!
Hi Serge
Thanks for the great video!!
What is the difference when just taking a shot with a longer shutter speed?
Tripod?
awesome Serge !!!
Hi Serge,
Really Love ur videos and planning to purchase your course for Landscaping, but my question is for the HDR part can I use photomatix or do I need to use the same program ?
Thank you in Advance.
Thanks Serge ! great trick, I'll try it for sure.
I like the Photoshop technique and will give a spin. Personally, I would have put the camera onto a handrail, a wall, a trashcan or whatever and used a long exposure time and a low ISO setting.
Hi, I just bought my first camera. I was really taken in by your landscape master class and I want to buy or subscribe to to it to learn more. However, I am a beginner so I need to walk before I can fly. Do you have any recommendations on a beginners course? I need to learn the ins and outs of my camera and what everything means. I have a GH5, what lens would you recommend for getting the kind of pictures that you were demonstrating in this video and that you quickly showed in your landscape masterclass? what lens would be good for general travel pictures? Finally, how much would I need to know about photoshop and lightroom before taking that masterclass? Thank you
The Best! Thanks Serge!
great technique, thanks!
Hi Serge,
i noticed that you reduce the noise in one of the 5 pictures in Lightroom before to merge them in Photoshop.
Should we have to do the same? Or can we merge all picture in Photoshop and "then" use Lightroom to reduce the noise? Thanks
very interesting video, I think it is a very usefull trick specially for photo with smartphone using fast shot mode and I tried personally with a Note 4 but a small advice layer/smart objects/Stack mode menu is grey out for those not have CS6 extended version like me so I solved in this way: after select all layers I do not transform in smart object but I put the blend in "darken" from the layer tool on the CS6 desktop
Thanks Sergo for such great videos.. I wanna ask is the course+ the 60% off still available?
Thank you very much for this tricky helpful editoring!
Damn good trick :) Nice work.
5:10 - 7:40 - magic! Thanks!!
Swwweeeetttt! Thanks!
Serge, great technique, thank you for sharing. Ihave a question for you, I see that when you open the files as layers in photoshop, the file becomes up to 1.2 gigas in size. What do you do in order to keep file sizes small? do you just print or export to a jpg and erase the TIFF file? thank you
As always anwsome tips Serge. 😁 👍
I really want your course. Are the videos streamed on your site or do I get to download the videos?
okay, i have to say, thiw video is amazing! thank you very much!
it s astro technique stacking method. I had the idea to use it few monthes ago in dubai where i was not able to use my tripod. I was iso-25600 on 1dx. But don t use noise reduction in lightroom, stacking will ersase it. if you use noise reduction first it smoothes the details of the image. not necessary
great stuff. cant wait for night to try this out. +1 sub
every minute spent with your vidio is fruitful.
thanks for the tutorial. I'm wondering if you can achieve similar results using g HDR mode? pretty much the same concept in averaging pixel values to remove noise and you can adjust the dynamic range steps to be smaller if you want to blend similar exposures.
I love this trick. Can you do this using Adobe Photoshop Elements 14?
Awesome thanks!
soo beautiful photograhs :) I really really love Your Style :) .. and I love magenta too :)
Awesome technique Serge! Do you know, is there an equivalent that can be done with Luminar?
Brilliant!
My friend great job on your image.
Sensational hint!
OK have a question. 3min53 you are on about a photo taken at f5.6 cos that was the lowest you could go but in the EXIF data at the top it shows a 16-35mm f4 lens @ 35mm or am I missing something
tres magnifique!
How amazing is that :) Thank you :)
U rock man.! 😍
What do you think about the Lightroom HDR merge? I was wondering if it's better to us grad ND filters vs hdr
Thanks! Great video!!
Cool tip thanks! Now, again I'm not selling anything, you'd get a clean picture SOOTC shooting at 3200 iso with a Fuji camera instead 😉 Thanks for sharing and good luck with your master class!
Awesome! :-)
Great job FPS France
Interesting trick Serge. I'll practice it, thank you!
Thank you for your tutorial, Serge. Is it possible to merge one of these stacked images into an HDR? When automate HDR asks to open files, I only see one. Is there a way to again seperate the layers so I can do an HDR AND an Auto-alignment? Can you have the best of both worlds?
Thank you my teacher
That was really good
amazing!! great job.....can you suggest a very beginner tutorial on Lightroom? or is Photoshop better? thanks!
They serve different purposes mate:
Photoshop = editing, manipulation and compositing
Lightroom = Raw file editing, colour correction and post-shoot tweaking (such as len corrections and exposure balancing)
technically photoshop can used for all those things aswell but the layout is designed to be easier and faster in lightroom and thus is prefered when editing RAWs and multiple photos in a single session.
thanks so much...I have both on my computer with creative cloud...i just have to dive in there and learn! Had a quick question. On doing family shots say 10 to 20 feet away im finding my 50MM has a hard time focusing. Is there another mm lens that could be better for this type of shooting. I want sharp photos. I shoot on tripod but still see one person sharp and the other person right next to them be a bit soft. Help! thanks! -stan
Sadly im not the guy to turn to when it comes to actually taking the photographs, im an editor (primarily photoshop, but on occassion lightroom based), i can advise for days on how to edit your image files, but as for taking the shots themselves its never been my job to actually do so.
Peace.
At night, do you use manual focus or auto focus?
Great tips here. Thank you :-)