Too Strong to Learn Technique? How to Move Better & Climb Harder
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- Опубліковано 31 лип 2024
- Use code ‘CATALYST’ for 10% off any Tindeq Progressor ▶︎ tindeq.com/product/progressor/
Team:
Louis Parkinson - / captaincutloose
Filmed and edited by Sam Douglas-Jones - / samdj_
Filmed at HarroWall in London
00:00 Intro
02:10 Strength Test
05:45 Drill 1 - Body Awareness
09:14 Drill 2 - Hand Hooks & Arm Ropes
12:51 Drill 3 - Holds Are Hot
15:42 Drill 4 - Direct Experiments: Toe Hooks Only
18:05 Drill 5 - Direct Experiments: Heel Hooks Only
19:51 Drill 6 - Treat Climbing Like Music
21:29 Drill 6 - Playing The Song For 1st Time
22:34 Drill 6 - Deciding On The Best Notes
25:02 Drill 6 - Practicing The Song
26:18 Drill 6 - Rehearsal To The Point of Performance
27:19 Drill 6 - Practised So Much Hard to Get Wrong
27:38 Drill 6 - Easy With Eyes Closed
30:08 Drill 6 - Concluded
31:16 Outro
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/ @catalystclimbing - Розваги
Okay let’s address the ‘alien sounds’…
I ran the audio through AI software to enhance the quality and reduce background noise (a couple of shots were filmed close to a hand dryer) but for some reason AI decided the video would be enhanced by some extra-terrestrial voices just to keep you on your toes.
Or maybe it’s subliminal messaging to encourage you to buy a Tindeq progressor… who knows 👀👽
I laughed my ass off :D so funny
it sounds like the slitheen from doctor who
Hi, have you tried the Hollyland LARK m2. In the "blue-mode" they have ja good bg-reduction and they are much lighter und smaller than the dji ;) I use them 4 your small cameras
AI is just complete bs
@@00Platypus00 this ChatGPT AI thing that writes my code pretty well for me is definitely complete bs for sure
Video so good people are getting possessed mid climb.
Sam climbed this so good he started ascending into his alien form 22:02
I thought there was something wrong with my headset lol
I had to check too hahahah, sounds like an AI voice generator
After 11 years of climbing and thinking I know it all, Louis comes along and really shifts my perspective. Amazing advice, amazing coach.
After 1.1 year of climbing, he makes me rethink everything too, :)
watched this stoned at 2am thought i was getting haunted
Hahahaha
@@balaenopteramusculusheheh
Same here, thought I was having a stroke
Yup..
I know that was completely not the point of the video, but this inspired me to go practice some piano, and (something something Louis' positive mindset) I had more fun playing than I'd had in a while :) So thanks for that!
Aha love that! Hope you chose a good song ;)
I'm a professional musician, and I recently just did an interview in which I compared climbing with music-it's great to hear the same analogy from a professional climber!
Not only climbing, but all sports will benefit from a musical approach. Ski turns can be timed right on a waltz rhythm 1-2-3 1-2-3 😊
I’m a music teacher who’s been climbing for a year. Louis is a fantastic teacher with such a positive outlook. He’s actually helped me be a better teacher and I actually did the opposite where I used the analogy of my personal journey with climbing to practicing music to a student
I think the takeaway for me here (someone who does NOT have the "too strong" problem) is definitely the "repeat mid range boulders" note. Thinking about my own climbing, I am rarely repeating the problems that are hard flashes or I get within 2-3 attempts. I feel like there are a lot of problems that I do once and leave forever to chase whatever has been newly set.
Definitely going to try to do some of those more difficult flashes 3-5 times until they feel like easy climbs, I think that's a great one for any type of climber.
try to top EVERY boulder twice. keep this in your head: topping once is luck, topping twice is skill ;)
Same here!
@@dreadcoil yeah i like to do boulders then i also like to record them (for proof or everyone calls cap )and to analyse what i am actually doing with my body
absolutely, more proud of sending my "tricky" boulders for the 2nd-3rd time around than I am the first time by now =D
@@dreadcoileven better is to use different beta to climb it again to increase your climbing vocabulary.
Great video. I especially liked the little tweaks to the orange climb that made it more and more efficient. As an overweight female climber I find those tweaks especially helpful, because I cannot rely on my strength and those small differences often mean the difference between sending a climb or not.
And speaking of climbing while being overweight, I have a video suggestion :D. It is very very rare to see overweight climbers (especially female climbers) who climb well because - let's face it- weight plays a big role in climbing, so there is no one to look up to and see that despite being overweight one can climb well. It would be great if you could coach someone overweight on a relatively hard climb as a proof of that and highlight that even though it might be harder it is still worth trying the sport and sticking to it, as well as the silver lining in climbing overweight - that one is forced to learn good technique from the very beginning, because we cannot rely on strength as much.
Lovely point! Would be psyche to see different body types as well. Just the other day I was admiring a heavier female climber absolutely smashing it on routes I was struggling on using excellent technique.
+1!
Your music analogy is pure gold.
Also I loved that section about teaching every step vs. teaching by setting the appropriate exercise and letting the student mindfully work their way through. During school I made the experience that this is exactly how you learn something deeply. I think a good teacher is one who provides students with lots of learning opportunities and useful materials / exercises, not one who tries to do the learning for them and tells them the results. Otherwise you will never perform without your teacher standing behind you and telling you what to do.
Yeah well said.
As a teacher, I fully agree! Also, there are usually many different ways to do things, depending on style and individual strengths.
Maybe my favorite video from y’all so far. I love Sam’s presence in front of the camera and the drills/explanations/analogies today were incredible. Great stuff all around!
Great vid, but the audio turned into alien speech multiple times during the video lol 26:46 - 26:50 and a few other times
probably because of copyrighted music in the gym
Sounds like a martian speaking Welsh
It seemed to happen to the one who was on the wall. I'm guessing it had something to do with the signal to the LAV's being interrupted or supressed somehow.
@@juluann I doubt it. Those mics are wireless, and there was probably rf interference
@@jazziiRed yeah makes sense
I agree with Sam, this was an exceptionally good coaching session, even better than the usual!
The pace at which you guys are delivering high quality videos is amazing. Great chemistry in the video, super interesting analogies and thought provoking inputs. Keep it up :)
especially the last one, drilling mid-hard climbs to perfection feels sooo good and is so fun....way more satisfying than just doing it and moving to the next one.
Great video
always a good day when you guys post a vid
Love these training videos! So relatable and helpful. Always grateful for dynamic movement breakdowns you’ve done as well - where you turn one dynamic move into multiple parts to work on to eventually master the move.
Definitely not one of those climbers you're talking about, but I've only recently started climbing, about 2 months, and I've made huge process, especially for someone with the upper body strength of a wet towel. I've gone from struggling on 4A to flashing 5B and projecting 6A (haven't sent it yet), and I can honestly credit most of the things that have helped me to this channel. Especially all the mindset tips you give have really made a huge difference for me. My climbing friends are actually impressed with my attitude and the 'relentless optimism' I've blatantly copied from Louis.
So thank you! And keep doing what you're doing, I'm just one of many you've inspired!
This feels so good to hear! Glad you’ve found value 😊
Thank you so much. Maybe the best training video on youtube. Such a good explanation. Really really good work. Thanks!!
Love this kind of video from Louis! Such a great concept. So applicable to so many things in life. Keep up the great work!
Can't wait to try these things. It seems like pure gold!
I also love those videos with Sam, he makes it more relatable and also really entertaining!
As a person who is plateau-ing and having injuries and frustration and close to quitting, this video made me find joy in climbing again, esp Drill 6. I'm just going to repeat easy climb to find that 'note'. Thank you for sharing what an insightful video you guys.
This is no doubts one of the best climbing practice and training advice.Thanks, I am subscribed.
I needed this video so bad and it couldnt have come at a better time. Plateaued as a heavier “stronger” climber and its been discouraging. Thank you!
I never thought I could be so excited to go try a bunch of drills but this seriously looks so fun and helpful
Sam! You climb so smoothly and elegantly. Louis, loved the training again, especially the music analogy. Certainly have loads of inspiration for my next sesh, for example repeating mid level climbs.
I love the Sam/Louis combined videos, some of my favourites and I learnt so much!
This is the best explanation of technique I've seen, thanks Louis 💪
This was such a great video! I love the climbing drill ideas - they make climbing familiar routes way more fun :)
One of the best videos up to now. Congrats.
Storror mention, when will be see a collaboration video? 😁
Might be some filming happening next week 👀
@@CatalystClimbing Excellent! Would also love to see how your mindset techniques could be applied to a straight line mission with Geowizard 😁
❤❤
That holes video really is a banger
Yay, I've been hoping for a Storror collab for ages! These collabs are probably one of the biggest reasons why I just love UA-cam so much more than watching anything from TV these days. With TV we're just passive audience, and the production team never really hears or at least listens to anything we wish to see. Whereas here if enough of us suggest something there's a good chance for it to happen at some point in the future 😄
Genuinely helpful tips that I will be trying out in my next session, thanks Louis!
I love all your videos, but this was one of the best for me
I agree with Sam, Louis was really on it with this one!
Speaking for myself I will use the toe-hook warmup drill seeing as I barely ever use toe-hooks due to not beeing good at them
Amazing episode! Loved the toe hook eyes 😄
I like that you brought up music, i often make little rithms in my head to do coordination moves and get the timing right.
Perfect timing! My friends and I started a month ago and we're all pretty strong (years of calisthenics and strength training) and making the transition to climbing has been rough! Knowing that your movement is super inefficient and that you're only completing climbs cause of strength is frustrating. A lot of these tips are exactly what we needed, gonna go and try them out today! Thanks boys 💪
i've been repeating some climbs but not with this level of attention and repetition. will definitely try.
Great video with wide applicability, thanks 😊 it reminded me of something i saw from Adam Ondra recently talking about how everyone should proect something that is really really hard for them because it makes you look for efficient movement and get creative with movement and technique.
Cannot wait to implement some of these tips in my next warmup.
Great video. I can't wait to try it out.
This might be the best climbing eduction video I've ever seen
I genuinely enjoy all of your videos.
Preemptively before I watch this video but remembering Sam’s other videos.
Sam is a beast! He is indeed super strong, so he’s actually in the upper level of strength for his grade imo, it would be nice to see a coaching session with someone who’s weak for the grades to get them just a bit more technically
soo good explanations! thank you :)
Can't wait to try some of these tomorrow! I don't have the "I'm too strong" problem, but I do have the "I'm too impatient" problem. So I end up limited by strength AND technique, which makes for a discouraging experience. Giving myself a challenge to work towards other than just "get to the top" I think will help a lot.
Sams progress since the first episode with him is great 💪💪
Great video, I want to try this on my next session
Absolutely going to be trying the mid-grade repeating thing! I'm currently at that low-grade place where it feels like the gap between flashable boulders and my absolute max is really small, and I think this will really help open a lot of things up.
Big up for continuing to bring new useful ideas to the videos, rather than repackaging basic technique and training advice or hyping some minute "training hack" like you see a lot on youtube!
i do agree so much. and also i do see myself being much stronger than im sending. but its just something else adapting this to the wall. like today, i tried a 7a climb. i know i can do every move. i know i can hold every hold in isolation. but then going from crimp to crimp dynamically, cut loose ( which is intended beta ) and campus to the next crimp just makes me feel " i am too weak " rationally i do know thats its not that... but it just feels like it so much..
i wish i had a coach like you 💜 great videos ! love your channel
Hi Louis! Tried this yesterday together with some of my team kids. especially the blind climbing was an awesome and fun experience. I don't know if you had the same experience, but for me personally the most interesting thing that happened during this exercise was that height did not play a role at all anymore, once you climbed with you eyes cloesed. every move felt about the same and I couldn't tell if I am barely off the ground or 3m up. Will definitely play around with this a little bit more. Thanks for all the awesome videos!
What a great video again ! It's very interesting too that the process actually feels really similar to climbing routes. For instance when I'm projecting, or doing laps on an easier route for endurance, that's exactly what I do ! Look, think, optimize and learn it all by heart so it becomes second nature :) Then you actually become able to climb WAY harder and stay on the wall much longer than you orginally could
Hi Catalyst climbing, I wanted to say well done on the video, I always learn heaps when I watch them. I also use your techniques in my sessions where I take people who are suffering with mental health to a bouldering wall. I wondered if ever you are in australia let me know it would be great if you would do a session with some of the kids I work with.
I actually did that more or less on my project. I think I climbed it between 300-500 times over the span of a 1 to 1.5 years. Man I could DREAM the route, and at the end I finally made it because I was just SO quick AND efficient, since it had 2-3 moves near my limit, every step mattered. Good stuff!
Holy moly the body awareness drill feels obvious in retrospect! Seems very useful, I will give it a try!
great video, thank you once again (:
fly eye is the new goat 😂 haha but in all seriousness louis is looking in seriously good shape and when are we getting the big daddy mag topless climb
Sam: Stronk
Louis: Technique
Ink: Good looks and snacks
actually sam's hip mobility is what keeps impressing me, every heel hook louis couldnt manage seemed easy for sam because of it
As a physical therapist, I just think Louis would be such a good PT especially a neuro PT because he thinks so much about resetting and strengthening movement patterns and makes it so fun!
Maybe the best video you've posted in a while
So much gold in this video
I tried this as my warmup today and I loved it. I normally breeze through v4 or v5 climbs without thought but this made me do them so deliberately
Highly recommend trying it
Recently started climbing having come from a lifting / bodybuilding background. I'm about 88kg so pretty heavy for 5ft11 but I'm also very strong, pretty low bodyfat. This video came at a perfect time!!
I've heard a saying across multiple disciplines, Music, Sports even Gaming when learning things like Combos in Fighting games or movement drills there. "Slow is Smooth, Smooth is Fast" and I think it aptly applies here too especially when trying to climb smartly and efficiently
Great video, really!
I think the main thing for me as a “burl your way through everything to hit higher grades” person was working weaknesses - that means sending the V4 slab and the V3 dyno instead of just hunting V6 sloper climbs 😂 turns you into a much more well rounded climber
Awesome video! I learned a lot and feel inspired for my next climbing session.
Do you mind sharing more of your tindeq presets? If they are already shared in the subscription program you just got a new member ☺️
Louis is the absolute best coach!!!!!!!
Louis' approach to coaching never ceases to amaze me.
With that piano analogy, If I crush a lower climb then im done with it. If I struggle a bit ill do it 2-3 more times until its smooth. Makes a difference.
Hey Louis! Loved the video and took some cool advice out of it. I was wondering if you think that sport climbing at your limit and really thinking about optimization and efficiency is an appropriate way to go about do this technique in a commercial setting. Keep bringing this great content man!
The eyes closed one made me laugh because I once felt so comfortable on a climb in my gym I did it with my eyes closed and man does it feel good when you do it
What an excellent coach.
i've been climbing for 4 month now and i've been able to climb a couple of 7A already, and that is ONLY because in my first month i got crazy OCDs about fixing my climbing efficency and understand how my body moves on the wall or in the air.
I'm not that strong, i surely am no joke about strength, but i'm surely not the strongest in my gym. efficiency of movements is a blessing sometimes.
Lateral climbing is one of the solutions that i use the most and most of the time it's SO easy to over-reach holds just by lateral climbing and work with your core and hips rather than with hands or shoulders.
Thank you for sharing this beautiful video. I really feel like you and a couple of other UA-cams like Ed or Emil improved A LOT my climbing technique even just by watching, understand it and try it.
I've been climbing for just two months now and have already smashed through several 7Bs in multiple gyms. Honestly, it's been a breeze. Why? Because I cracked the code to climbing efficiency in my very first week.
Strength is overrated. It's all about technique and efficiency. I've practically written a book on lateral climbing by now. , I can reach holds that others only dream of. It's like a cheat code for climbing!
Let me walk you through my process, because clearly, not everyone gets it. I spent countless hours analyzing climbing videos, breaking down every single movement frame by frame. My notes are a work of art, detailing everything from grip techniques to foot placements. Visualization exercises? Check. I mentally rehearse every climb to perfection.
And my training regimen? It’s on another level. I’ve crafted a custom workout that includes yoga for flexibility, Pilates for core strength, and high-intensity interval training for endurance. This comprehensive approach ensures that every muscle in my body is optimized for peak performance.
Thank you for sharing your comment, by the way. It's cute to see the basics being covered. I’ve been dissecting videos from Louis, Magnus and other UA-camrs like Emil as well. They’ve been a nice addition to my already extensive training routine. Watching, understanding, and trying out these techniques has been child’s play for me.
Keep up the good work! Maybe someday you’ll catch up. 😏
🗽 Louis is a great coach! ❤❤
.
Very inspiring video! I will definitely take some of this into my training.
I would have loved to see an inside-flag at 24:37 instead of switching feet.
I’m a guitar teacher and the instrument practice analogy is perfect!!
As a beginner, I've totally deep dived in to ALL your videos Louis! Thank you! Wish I could train with you, come to Edinburgh! Wish I'd started climbing years ago. As a hypermobile yogi it has really helped so much joint pain.
Side note - Sam! How the heck do you get such a nice tan?! 😂
This vid reminds me alot of the video lattice did where they talk about getting better at technique through climbing with constraints over doing isolated technique drills. With the isolated technique drills yes maybe you get really good at a specific technique in very specific isolated scenarios, but then its hard to actually apply it to your general climbing where you have a million different variables that will alter the movement depending on what climb youre doing. With constraint driven climbing instead of focusing on the technique itself, and the times its best to use it. youre constraining your options making the technique you want to get better at the only or at least best option. This forces you to learn in a way thats more adaptable and applicable to your climbing in general.
Always helpfull insghts and pactical drills
nobody:
alien who's been living in somerset: 25:58
You are an amazing coach. I definitely learned a whole lot watching this. Thank you both for all the effort you put into these videos.
Cant wait to go lap some climbs with these tips in mind.
great video! only me that is enough of a nerd to recognize "Priest Drawn" on the Kilter board in the background?
Please come to Spain, we need your lessons!
fire vid
Was thinking of buying those climbing shoes, would love a review
Thanks for another fun video with great tips! ❤
I like to do a simular thing at the end of some of my sessions. Where I climb 1 route a few grades below my peak, as many times as I can with 1 minute breaks. At some point you get so gassed that you have to climb perfectly to get to the top. Not sure if its optimal, but its very fun.
love you loui
love the body awareness tips. i find myself doing this really well on the easier climbs, but as i approach my limit i find all my brain can focus on is to grip harder. any tips on keeping the best technique at your limit?
Great video guys! As a piano player I loved the music analogy (:
same like why cant i just spend all my time sightreading new music :(
The alien dialect coming through got me so good 😂 AI is weird sometimes man. It knows what it's doing 🤔
how do you spot where you can make a figure 4 and its importance! awesome analogy with music! Congrats!
Great flow into the drop knee reach at 23:08
No Louis fit check today, I'm devasted.
The hands as hooks drill with no pulling seemed really good, gonna try that out.
Video quick recap:
Warmups:
- be aware of each move/tension/pull/push you do
- try climbing without using any arm strenght
- move right hand only with right toehook etc.
- toehooks only/heel hooks only
Practice middle grade boulders (analogy to music):
- learn the notes one by one
- try different approches/versions
- choose exact song version
- repeat this version until comfortable playing in front of audience
I was really looking forward to this video especially cause it had one of my best sends in the background. It did get edited out though probably to much noise celebrating 😂
I'm a professional musician who took up climbing a few years ago, and I find there are so many techniques I use during my music practice that I can relate to climbing. One of my professors would often say "Once you've done something one time you've proven you have the ability to do it. Now you just need to become consistent." He would also say "Less talk, more rock!" 😅