Thank you. I followed all the steps and was able to remove my old window and go remove a replacement from the autowrecker. Saved a fortune in repair costs.
You need to use a 5/16” solid core butyl roll. Standard caulking tube “Glue” seal especially urethane will not bond properly without accompanying primers and properly cleaned parts. The bond breaks free after a few years. The factory used a foam core butyl covered roll and the issue is dirt buildup in the low spots on each side pretty much above each headrest that grinds through the seal over time. They were leaking within a year when this generation first came out. Very common problem and why I’ve upgraded them all to solid butyl. Clean everything of all dirt and contaminants with adhesive cleaner and a rag. Water only will not due. Only use a plastic scraper on the body and much of butyl can be pulled off using old butyl or small section of new roll to tack it to itself and lift off. . If you scratch the paint with a metal tool you’ll have rust issues later if you don’t use a rust inhibiting primer. . Nice warm day or heat the butyl to appx 80-90* and it should feel like soft gum in your finger. Roll out gently around frame keeping the roll round and only put the joint at bottom (there is a distinct area on frame for butyl to overlap) . Press in firm to body and tighten down bolts uniformly or you’ll strip them out of frame. I’ve down well over 1000 of these for Ford recall since new and still do many to this today. 45 min tops. Don’t need to pull the seats. Only side upper trim, belt anchors and headliner tabs need removing and pull back top of seat enough to access bolts and pull down headliner just enough to get to bolts. The lower outside two nuts behind seat are a little tougher due to less flex but still easy to get off. Generally 9mm nuts but some are 10mm. The next generation ford has same foam core butyl issue but primarily on the top corners as well as a rivet through the body for the roof molding trim. Dumb design but it makes me lots of money over the decades.
Looking at my old seal you were absolutely right. There were low spots on each side of the glass and both were completely full of dirt, one exactly where my leak was.
Thanks for sharing. My F-150 has a rear window leak and after checking out your UA-cam post it's helped me get a better visualization on what to expect. Your video side notes helped as well. I'm mechanically inclined, so the camera movement along with your narrative didn't leave me stranded, so to me it was just as good. Thanks again, Larry
I own a '97 and a 2000. My '97 needs a heater core, and watching UA-cam vids convinced me I can't handle it. Now you're convincing me I can't handle doing my back window.. lol thanks.
I have the exact same problem with my truck so I jumped on you tube and saw your video, your video was first to pop up and not only is it the same problem I have... you have the same truck! Same paint, same interior! Great video man, now I know what I gots to do. Much appreciated
That is awesome, I love comments like these, manifestations of affirmations comfirming the presence of the intended effect of my cause i.e. this vid-juh
Just a little note: 1997 and maybe 1998 trucks have two bolts that hold the bottom of the seat backs, not like the truck in this video and another I watched. Also the trim around the drivers side back corner is one piece that surrounds the side window. You have to remove the drivers side seat belt and the latch for the side window to get that piece of trim out. 1997 trucks do not have the two buttons in the ceiling to hold the headliner up so that is a plus. Thanks for the video. I have had to pull the dash out of both of my 97s to fix heater cores and am now ready to disassemble the back half of my truck to replace the rear window. Mine has a bad leak and the frame has two cracks in it. I think I will use 5/16 Butyl tape instead of what you used for sealant though.
I did mine yesterday after watching this video and all the others available. I used the 3M window weld "ribbon strip". It goes on as clean as could be. I imagined the window weld in the tube being super messy. All went fairly smooth except for pulling off the two side trim molding pieces. Unless you have a hand and arm the size of a toddler there's no way to get in there and try to release those tabs. Ultimately I just pulled and hoped for the best. I broke 4 out of 8 tabs. Plastic crap. Of course if these pieces were held on by simple screws we wouldn't have this problem. This window should definitely be held in by more screws......even just a few would make a difference. At one point at the bottom of the window 2 screws are about 15" apart. Not a brilliant design if you're trying to join two things together while making them water tight.
Thanks for the video dude! Real simple and all tools were right size for my 2000 F150. Whole job took about 2 hours, including watching your video. BTW, you got a good babe there, bringing you lunch and helping out on the job. Hold on to her!
You definitely helped me save the plastic tabs on those rear pieces by the seatbelts! I would echo what others have said for anybody watching the video now which is use the butyl tape instead of something from a tube. I had been putting this off for ages but it was a piece of cake. Worst/longest part was just cleaning off the old tape. Thanks for the video!
Dude! That is a major PITA! Thank you so much! I'm going to tackle it but knowing what I'm getting into will maybe keep me from losing my temper and turning all into pieces of bent metal, broken plastic and ultimately taking a hammer to the glass.
Perfect video for what I needed! Not looking to fix a leak, but replace the entire window because it no longer exist. Your step by step with pretty good camera shots is going to be extremely helpful. Will be back to view this again after I get my glass. I know the plastic piece on the outside for mine is cracked in two places. I'm thinking Gorilla Glue(???) maybe. Been using plastic sheeting and duct tape for 2 1/2 years. (works well but dries out and blows apart when driving down the highway about once a year). Looking forward to putting an actual glass window on! Thanks so much for taking the time to do this!
Super glad I could help out brother! It's comments like this that encourage me, so thank you too! And yeah, that broken plastic part is something expensive and hard to come by. Not sure if Gorilla Glue would do the trick either. Maybe the tape from behind but not sure how that would be accomplished haha. Blessings on your endeavor!
Great video ! You explained everything very well. I did everything you said and had no problems. I took my time and haven't had any problems. I live in Oregon and its the most rain we have had in years. Again thanks bro!
Great video bro. I have the 97 lariat. Followed step by with out a hitch. For the back seat, I was lucky enough to have only those 3 clips on the top and 2-10 mm bolts at the bottom to loosen to take it off.
Worked for me bro! I thought I was going to have to use a heat gun or weird chemicals but was glad to see it was mainly elbow power. For the cleaning I would recommend acetone or denatured alcohol. Cheers!
I work for Safelite. I check out videos from time to time. Your video is great for someone trying to do this on their own. That goo is called butyl. It's stringy nasty stuff.
Mine is also a 2003 extended cab. You were right about the seat back rest. I couldn't pull it out. I had to get a friend with bigger shoulders, and stronger arms and hands. ; - P On the glass, the old sealant was very hard for me to cut through with a standard putty knife, so I used an oscillating tool with a cutter blade and as steady a hand as possible, and cut through the old sealant a lot quicker. Popped the glass right out. Very helpful video!
Yeah if I would have had an oscillating tool for that I would have been down to use it but had to use it the old elbow grease and all! I'm glad this video helped you and it continues to serve the world. Godspeed!
I just have to let you know this video helped me so much. I have been fixing my own vehicles since I bought my first one. My 2001 Ford F-150 xl rwd 4.2l has been leaking for a long time I am fixing that tomorrow thank you so much.
Thanks ! I finally did the job. I used gloves until I put the window back on. And I got my hands messy. It took me 5 hours. About 2 hours cleaning the surface. I don't want to have to redo the job. A cat claw makes taking out the push pins easy.
Thanks for the video. I now see what's involved and it's more complicated than I thought and I definitely need to allow more time than I had first thought
I think you did a great job. I would add finish pulling the headliner out and have your lovely assistant hose down the truck with the Door closed so you can verify the leak. Also seal the screw holes for the trim at the same time. Again, you did great. Rubbing Alcohol may be a better cleanup product for that sticky stuff. Also fold the rear seat down. I loved the real world put some balls into it comment. That looked like good sealant, never mind the window guy that bashed you. That dude can go get bent. Thanks for taking the time to document.
Thanks man! Yeah, I didn't really take the proper cleaning measures, which I hope others take. I am happy to report as of today January 5, 2018 she is still sealed up. Hopefully that didn't jynx it haha. Will let ya'll know if it did! Not sure if that guy is right or not but she still sealed so, eh. Thanks for taking the time to write your comment. It's awesome to see the feedback from the people I helped that this crazy platform allows for. Cheers buddy!
Great video , ford did a poor job on the sealer . Mine leaks in the same place too. That is a factory defect my friend. Take it from a guy who works in a auto plant.
Thanks for the video with narration and notes. I have a 2000 F150 with rear window. I'd assume the process would be the same and I'll be performing the fix soon.
Thanks for the video, I think I'm just going to roof caulk the back trims and see if that works, I know I can do it but it's seems very time consuming, if it fails I'll do this. Thanks for the very detailed video.
Did your idea work, I'm thinking about doing the same? Don't want to pull the whole window out for one spot? Also, did you pull the back plastic molding off and if so how is it attached? Thanks
Panel Clip Removal Tool will also save some of the headaches you have when using the flathead. Its a little longer and specialized specifically for removing those little clips on the face and behind the panel. Costs between 9 and 15 bucks most places. AUTO SHOP not hardware store find. Autozone or Oreilly or whoever is in your area.
Great video. Thanks for the step by step. My window seems to be leaking I. The same spot as yours. I'm gonna attempt this. Only difference is I think I'm gonna try the Butyl tape.
Just realized after some heavy rain last night that my 03' has the same issue...is mine being a lariat going to effect this process at all? I also noticed the whole plastic frame is also loose, would flexseal fix this without having to pull it all apart?
Great how to video, thanks. Nevertheless, I suspect that you didn't actually fix the leak. I doubt (could be wrong) that the leak wasn't due to a separation or lack of sealant, but due to the plastic from that the window goes in has developed a crack or to while flexing. That is all too common on this generation. It took me a while to find the leak on my own. The frame was cracked in three areas. My window is a slider, so there might be some difference. Just another bad Ford design. I've had three Rangers (4 cyl), loved them all. Hate my 99 F150
As a auto glass technician that is the wrong product to put on the glass for a sealant. You need to use a product called M-seal. You will have leaks again
dude, fucking thanks! I'm having the same issue as you, as I imagine many of us are. Thank you for putting in the time and effort to create the video as you did the fix. You rock!
You are welcome. With my enjoyment of making videos and also wanted to help people this video worked out nicely. I'm glad so many people appreciate the time I put into it. Rock on!
Where did you get the child seat tether anchors from? I am trying to install on my truck for the kid seats but even the dealerships are clueless about them. Thanks for the video explaining how to reseal the window. I will be doing this soon with the 8mm foam butyl seal. Looks like it is pretty straight forward. I figured while I have everything torn out I could install the tethers as well.
The roof leaks on my f 150, Manufacture flaw. Look for small cracks along bottom of troft edge on top roof near back glass. The crack in the sheet metal may run entirely front to back.
Yeah mine is a 2002 but it’s the same thing. Anyways it was leaking too. Then were moving stuff and through a ladder in the back and broke the window. But thanks this helps because we’re getting it fixed with in the next week. But can you post what you did to get rid of the mold and stains on the back of the seats.
RE: Seat Removal - 1998 f150 xlt - mine has 2 10mm bolts holding the bottom of the seatback - used socket extension between the seatback and the seat with a swivel - each about 1/4 way in from each side. Important to get bottom of seatback released first then the top hooks easy.
Just put it on the window border very generously! No need to be stingy as that is what created this problem in the first place, Ford pinching pennies. Just a little more of that sealant at the factory would have prevented this. GENEROUSLY!!!!! Remember that haha!
The seat back can be more easily removed by inserting a 3' long 2x4 flatways between the back and bottom and prying down while pulling the top of the back forward. This should be repeated for both sides.
Do not do what this guy did. Get Tape-kit from an auto parts store and go back with it. Urethane is not for bolt ins, He didn't prime the body, that's the world's smallest bead, the wrong bead to run and 3m urethane sucks. When it breaks and he has to have a glass guy come get it out, if one will do it at all, its gonna cost him.
Dang, I didn't realize that. Gonna hopefully we can get likes on this comment to keep it at the top. Or should I just take it down? Perhaps re-edit and upload?
@@MRBOBBY8706 You did a good job on everything else. Just a bad choice on the Glue, Alos some primer would have helped rust issues on the scratched parts for the future.
Did this work? I thought you use windo weld on glass? I’m pretty sure there was a rubber weatherproofing strip when I took my back window off and I’m questioning if window weld is the right stuff to use?
The weather strip that was on mine was along the top and the outer edge of that plastic border piece. But this sealant works. I got rid of the truck last July and it worked til then, and am sure it's going strong now lol.
Good that you narrated your steps but you were all over TH place, if you going to start videoing a task, fully review and look at camera placement. Even if your doing a lot of editing, it will look cleaner and more effective. I have the 2004 F150 so I will be doing this same task really soon(Window arrived at the dealer Friday) oh and the little sharp point on the calling gun it's to open the tube and unclogging the nozzle. Keep doing videos if you like it, review the tape after you edit it. If you turn it off before the end, so will youtubers. Thanks for the vid!
Jerry, since your so opinionated , I thought I would give you my option about your comment and his video. This video was a major help. I did everything he explained , and everything worked out great! After doing the job after the education I got from his video, I completely understand what he went through. The job in its self is all over the place. I honestly couldn't imagine filming and explaining everything. I went on your channel and failed to see any of your skilled camera work, and I find that interesting. I guess I'm a little bothered by this comment because this job was very detailed and a little time consuming me, and this video saved me so much more frustration. I guess there is always a critic who feels the need to educate the educator, especially when they don't educate.
No vehicle owner should have to go through this bullshit it seems like every video i watch there is no ford bashing i would be cursing ford while doing whatever the problem im Going to buy a ram next i do like how my f150 drive its just the little shit that make them suck big!
A year later and still one of the most helpful videos out there 😂
Foreal . I even felt like I was there helping or something lol , cool video 👍
6 years ago and still the most helpful.
Thank you. I followed all the steps and was able to remove my old window and go remove a replacement from the autowrecker. Saved a fortune in repair costs.
You need to use a 5/16” solid core butyl roll.
Standard caulking tube “Glue” seal especially urethane will not bond properly without accompanying primers and properly cleaned parts. The bond breaks free after a few years.
The factory used a foam core butyl covered roll and the issue is dirt buildup in the low spots on each side pretty much above each headrest that grinds through the seal over time. They were leaking within a year when this generation first came out. Very common problem and why I’ve upgraded them all to solid butyl. Clean everything of all dirt and contaminants with adhesive cleaner and a rag. Water only will not due. Only use a plastic scraper on the body and much of butyl can be pulled off using old butyl or small section of new roll to tack it to itself and lift off. . If you scratch the paint with a metal tool you’ll have rust issues later if you don’t use a rust inhibiting primer. . Nice warm day or heat the butyl to appx 80-90* and it should feel like soft gum in your finger. Roll out gently around frame keeping the roll round and only put the joint at bottom (there is a distinct area on frame for butyl to overlap) . Press in firm to body and tighten down bolts uniformly or you’ll strip them out of frame.
I’ve down well over 1000 of these for Ford recall since new and still do many to this today. 45 min tops. Don’t need to pull the seats. Only side upper trim, belt anchors and headliner tabs need removing and pull back top of seat enough to access bolts and pull down headliner just enough to get to bolts. The lower outside two nuts behind seat are a little tougher due to less flex but still easy to get off. Generally 9mm nuts but some are 10mm.
The next generation ford has same foam core butyl issue but primarily on the top corners as well as a rivet through the body for the roof molding trim.
Dumb design but it makes me lots of money over the decades.
This is great intel! Thanks for the info!
Looking at my old seal you were absolutely right. There were low spots on each side of the glass and both were completely full of dirt, one exactly where my leak was.
Dude you should highlight this comment to the very top
that's what I was thinking, what company makes the butyl roll and where can I get it?
Thanks for sharing. My F-150 has a rear window leak and after checking out your UA-cam post it's helped me get a better visualization on what to expect. Your video side notes helped as well. I'm mechanically inclined, so the camera movement along with your narrative didn't leave me stranded, so to me it was just as good. Thanks again, Larry
I am glad I could help buddy!
I've watched several videos on fixing this rear window leak. By far the best video is this one.
Took some time, but well worth the bullet I took for folks like you. Thanks for the feedback and so glad I could help!
Very informative video, most helpful one I found. Thanks for the information.
I own a '97 and a 2000. My '97 needs a heater core, and watching UA-cam vids convinced me I can't handle it. Now you're convincing me I can't handle doing my back window.. lol thanks.
You can, you just need help when removing the glass.
I have the exact same problem with my truck so I jumped on you tube and saw your video, your video was first to pop up and not only is it the same problem I have... you have the same truck! Same paint, same interior! Great video man, now I know what I gots to do. Much appreciated
That is awesome, I love comments like these, manifestations of affirmations comfirming the presence of the intended effect of my cause i.e. this vid-juh
Thanks for the video man. Good work. My 2001 model started leaking and this is exactly what I needed to see.
Just a little note: 1997 and maybe 1998 trucks have two bolts that hold the bottom of the seat backs, not like the truck in this video and another I watched. Also the trim around the drivers side back corner is one piece that surrounds the side window. You have to remove the drivers side seat belt and the latch for the side window to get that piece of trim out. 1997 trucks do not have the two buttons in the ceiling to hold the headliner up so that is a plus.
Thanks for the video. I have had to pull the dash out of both of my 97s to fix heater cores and am now ready to disassemble the back half of my truck to replace the rear window. Mine has a bad leak and the frame has two cracks in it. I think I will use 5/16 Butyl tape instead of what you used for sealant though.
I am happy to see Slash sober and productive!
Hahaha
I did mine yesterday after watching this video and all the others available. I used the 3M window weld "ribbon strip". It goes on as clean as could be. I imagined the window weld in the tube being super messy. All went fairly smooth except for pulling off the two side trim molding pieces. Unless you have a hand and arm the size of a toddler there's no way to get in there and try to release those tabs. Ultimately I just pulled and hoped for the best. I broke 4 out of 8 tabs. Plastic crap. Of course if these pieces were held on by simple screws we wouldn't have this problem. This window should definitely be held in by more screws......even just a few would make a difference. At one point at the bottom of the window 2 screws are about 15" apart. Not a brilliant design if you're trying to join two things together while making them water tight.
Thanks for the video dude! Real simple and all tools were right size for my 2000 F150. Whole job took about 2 hours, including watching your video. BTW, you got a good babe there, bringing you lunch and helping out on the job. Hold on to her!
I'm glad it helped you mate! Thanks for the kind words.
You definitely helped me save the plastic tabs on those rear pieces by the seatbelts! I would echo what others have said for anybody watching the video now which is use the butyl tape instead of something from a tube. I had been putting this off for ages but it was a piece of cake. Worst/longest part was just cleaning off the old tape. Thanks for the video!
So did you use the ribbon sealer?
Due! your video instructions are better than the last 4 i looked at. I loved seeing the same kinda mistakes I make. Thanks
Dude! That is a major PITA! Thank you so much! I'm going to tackle it but knowing what I'm getting into will maybe keep me from losing my temper and turning all into pieces of bent metal, broken plastic and ultimately taking a hammer to the glass.
4 years and this is a great video
My only complaint was you cut it off short but I appreciate the info. It was truly helpful! Thank you!
Yeah I totally get u. But it was definitely better than the rest out there haha. Thanks for the kind words and glad I could help others
Perfect video for what I needed!
Not looking to fix a leak, but replace the entire window because it no longer exist. Your step by step with pretty good camera shots is going to be extremely helpful. Will be back to view this again after I get my glass. I know the plastic piece on the outside for mine is cracked in two places. I'm thinking Gorilla Glue(???) maybe. Been using plastic sheeting and duct tape for 2 1/2 years. (works well but dries out and blows apart when driving down the highway about once a year). Looking forward to putting an actual glass window on!
Thanks so much for taking the time to do this!
Super glad I could help out brother! It's comments like this that encourage me, so thank you too! And yeah, that broken plastic part is something expensive and hard to come by. Not sure if Gorilla Glue would do the trick either. Maybe the tape from behind but not sure how that would be accomplished haha. Blessings on your endeavor!
I just swapped the rear windows in my 2000 4 Dr. To my 2000 flare side. You speak my language bro. Loved the video. Breezed threw it!!! Thanks!!
Thank you so much for this. Im going to attempt to fix my leak this week thanks to your video.
Great video ! You explained everything very well. I did everything you said and had no problems. I took my time and haven't had any problems. I live in Oregon and its the most rain we have had in years. Again thanks bro!
Glad I could help you out!
Great video bro. I have the 97 lariat. Followed step by with out a hitch. For the back seat, I was lucky enough to have only those 3 clips on the top and 2-10 mm bolts at the bottom to loosen to take it off.
Worked for me bro! I thought I was going to have to use a heat gun or weird chemicals but was glad to see it was mainly elbow power. For the cleaning I would recommend acetone or denatured alcohol. Cheers!
I work for Safelite. I check out videos from time to time. Your video is great for someone trying to do this on their own. That goo is called butyl. It's stringy nasty stuff.
Hey, I appreciate that you took the time to make a video of it. Thanks!
Mine is also a 2003 extended cab. You were right about the seat back rest. I couldn't pull it out. I had to get a friend with bigger shoulders, and stronger arms and hands. ; - P On the glass, the old sealant was very hard for me to cut through with a standard putty knife, so I used an oscillating tool with a cutter blade and as steady a hand as possible, and cut through the old sealant a lot quicker. Popped the glass right out. Very helpful video!
Yeah if I would have had an oscillating tool for that I would have been down to use it but had to use it the old elbow grease and all! I'm glad this video helped you and it continues to serve the world. Godspeed!
I just have to let you know this video helped me so much. I have been fixing my own vehicles since I bought my first one. My 2001 Ford F-150 xl rwd 4.2l has been leaking for a long time I am fixing that tomorrow thank you so much.
AWESOME advice right here. Thank you for the video.
Thanks for the advice, had no idea it had so many bolts holding it in there. Mine leaks in the same spot so I'll be fixing it this weekend.
Thanks ! I finally did the job. I used gloves until I put the window back on. And I got my hands messy. It took me 5 hours. About 2 hours cleaning the surface. I don't want to have to redo the job. A cat claw makes taking out the push pins easy.
Thanks for the very detailed and informative video. I love it. Keep up the great work.
This video just made my life way easier. Thank you for taking the time to make it
I figured since a lot of people have this problem it would be worth the trouble. Glad I could help! Blessings ~MB
Thanks for the video. I now see what's involved and it's more complicated than I thought and I definitely need to allow more time than I had first thought
You're very welcome!
Looks like fun, got a 98 f150 single cab. Wrk truck. Just started leaking! Very informative. 👍
heeeey man appreciate this video a ton! And those notes were clutch 👍
Finished everything In a couple hours
Great video! Shows exactly what I needed
I think you did a great job. I would add finish pulling the headliner out and have your lovely assistant hose down the truck with the Door closed so you can verify the leak. Also seal the screw holes for the trim at the same time. Again, you did great. Rubbing Alcohol may be a better cleanup product for that sticky stuff. Also fold the rear seat down. I loved the real world put some balls into it comment. That looked like good sealant, never mind the window guy that bashed you. That dude can go get bent. Thanks for taking the time to document.
Thanks man! Yeah, I didn't really take the proper cleaning measures, which I hope others take. I am happy to report as of today January 5, 2018 she is still sealed up. Hopefully that didn't jynx it haha. Will let ya'll know if it did! Not sure if that guy is right or not but she still sealed so, eh. Thanks for taking the time to write your comment. It's awesome to see the feedback from the people I helped that this crazy platform allows for. Cheers buddy!
Thanks for the video! Mine is leaking in the same place in both sides. Thanks man!
Thank you 4 ur great video,you save me so much time and 235 dollars. When to a wrecking yard got the window for 30 and sealer x2 $44 . Thanks
I am super glad this video keeps doing what I intended it to do to this day. Thanks for the kind words!
Where can I find this “pencil and paper” you speak of? 🤣
Seriously Thanks for the great tips! Saved me a lot of headaches!
Great video , ford did a poor job on the sealer . Mine leaks in the same place too. That is a factory defect my friend. Take it from a guy who works in a auto plant.
All they needed was some more sealant or some strip to go along the top to prevent dirt and all that from getting in there.
Hey cuz. Very nice video and good detail. I'm glad you made this because I'd have gotten pissed trying to do this with those little tips lol.
Thanks brother!!! I needed this video.
great vidio good step by step process I will doing my daughters truck soon
Many thanks for making this video
Thanks for the video with narration and notes. I have a 2000 F150 with rear window. I'd assume the process would be the same and I'll be performing the fix soon.
Glad it helped. Be sure to put plenty of the window weld along the top ESPECIALLY around the screw holes!
Good video, thank you for sharing
Thanks, fix mine yesterday after watching your video ✌🏽
Glad I could help
Thanks for the video, I think I'm just going to roof caulk the back trims and see if that works, I know I can do it but it's seems very time consuming, if it fails I'll do this. Thanks for the very detailed video.
Did your idea work, I'm thinking about doing the same? Don't want to pull the whole window out for one spot? Also, did you pull the back plastic molding off and if so how is it attached? Thanks
I put that on top of my gray trim but the leak for me was actually between the gray trim and window
Panel Clip Removal Tool will also save some of the headaches you have when using the flathead. Its a little longer and specialized specifically for removing those little clips on the face and behind the panel. Costs between 9 and 15 bucks most places. AUTO SHOP not hardware store find. Autozone or Oreilly or whoever is in your area.
Great video. Thanks for the step by step. My window seems to be leaking I. The same spot as yours. I'm gonna attempt this. Only difference is I think I'm gonna try the Butyl tape.
I am sure about 85% or more here have it leaking in the same area. It was some sort of factory flaw. Let me know how it works out!
nice video!
Great video now I can make this a DIY job thx!!!!
Just realized after some heavy rain last night that my 03' has the same issue...is mine being a lariat going to effect this process at all? I also noticed the whole plastic frame is also loose, would flexseal fix this without having to pull it all apart?
My only suggestion to you if you need to do this I as to do a final wipe down of the cleaned areas with a good adhesive cleaner.
Great how to video, thanks. Nevertheless, I suspect that you didn't actually fix the leak. I doubt (could be wrong) that the leak wasn't due to a separation or lack of sealant, but due to the plastic from that the window goes in has developed a crack or to while flexing. That is all too common on this generation. It took me a while to find the leak on my own. The frame was cracked in three areas. My window is a slider, so there might be some difference. Just another bad Ford design. I've had three Rangers (4 cyl), loved them all. Hate my 99 F150
Well done sir.
As a auto glass technician that is the wrong product to put on the glass for a sealant. You need to use a product called M-seal. You will have leaks again
Thank you very much for the info. I will put it in the description!
He needs Butyl Tape not Urethane comes on a roll not in a tube
@@sharonedwards5729 butyl is an old method, the newer stuff works a whole lot better.
Helps a lot bro thanks for the full tare down
You are welcome bro!
Thanks for the video...I had no idea it was that complicated. I thought just the outside window molding came off
That would be nice if that was the case lol.
Just as a note, my Ford is a 1999. The back seat (back) is actually bolted to the truck (2 brackets), it then lifts up.
dude, fucking thanks! I'm having the same issue as you, as I imagine many of us are. Thank you for putting in the time and effort to create the video as you did the fix. You rock!
You are welcome. With my enjoyment of making videos and also wanted to help people this video worked out nicely. I'm glad so many people appreciate the time I put into it. Rock on!
Where did you get the child seat tether anchors from? I am trying to install on my truck for the kid seats but even the dealerships are clueless about them.
Thanks for the video explaining how to reseal the window. I will be doing this soon with the 8mm foam butyl seal. Looks like it is pretty straight forward. I figured while I have everything torn out I could install the tethers as well.
The roof leaks on my f 150, Manufacture flaw. Look for small cracks along bottom of troft edge on top roof near back glass. The crack in the sheet metal may run entirely front to back.
good job
Thanks hope it helps me
Yeah mine is a 2002 but it’s the same thing. Anyways it was leaking too. Then were moving stuff and through a ladder in the back and broke the window. But thanks this helps because we’re getting it fixed with in the next week. But can you post what you did to get rid of the mold and stains on the back of the seats.
RE: Seat Removal - 1998 f150 xlt - mine has 2 10mm bolts holding the bottom of the seatback - used socket extension between the seatback and the seat with a swivel - each about 1/4 way in from each side. Important to get bottom of seatback released first then the top hooks easy.
Perhaps this one is the same. I'd look but 1 I dont have it anymore, and two, it'd be a pain just to see. I'll take your word for it.
wish I could hire you to fix mine. great video though. one question, did you put sealant on the truck body too or just the window?
Just put it on the window border very generously! No need to be stingy as that is what created this problem in the first place, Ford pinching pennies. Just a little more of that sealant at the factory would have prevented this. GENEROUSLY!!!!! Remember that haha!
The seat back can be more easily removed by inserting a 3' long 2x4 flatways between the back and bottom and prying down while pulling the top of the back forward. This should be repeated for both sides.
Do you know where I can get the window sealer or the weather weatherstrip at? I'm having a hard time finding it online
You can find it at AutoZone I believe. Just make sure it's that same number! I hope you find it bud!
Any leaks if you still have the truck?
Do not do what this guy did. Get Tape-kit from an auto parts store and go back with it. Urethane is not for bolt ins, He didn't prime the body, that's the world's smallest bead, the wrong bead to run and 3m urethane sucks. When it breaks and he has to have a glass guy come get it out, if one will do it at all, its gonna cost him.
Dang, I didn't realize that. Gonna hopefully we can get likes on this comment to keep it at the top. Or should I just take it down? Perhaps re-edit and upload?
@@MRBOBBY8706 Your video bro.
@@MRBOBBY8706 You did a good job on everything else. Just a bad choice on the Glue, Alos some primer would have helped rust issues on the scratched parts for the future.
What tape kit are you talking about. Does it have a specific name?
What'd you do about the moldy seats?
Caleb Scott I just put then back in bro.
Thanks for the video, how's it holding up?
It is holding up nicely to this day. I had a minor leak one day but that was because Hurricane Harvey rain. It is fine now and no leaks since!
Did this work? I thought you use windo weld on glass? I’m pretty sure there was a rubber weatherproofing strip when I took my back window off and I’m questioning if window weld is the right stuff to use?
The weather strip that was on mine was along the top and the outer edge of that plastic border piece. But this sealant works. I got rid of the truck last July and it worked til then, and am sure it's going strong now lol.
Random Robert Renditions 10-4
Thanks now I know how not to brake those plastic clips on the interior trims lol
thanks
I never thought about the description, it is pretty funny now that I read it again after so many years. You are welcome too!
8:52! 🤣🤣🤣🤣 "Take this out a little"... RIPS IT OUT!
Dude that is so funny! I didn't realize I had said that. I love finding little timestamps like this!!! Nice find!
Random Robert Renditions it's a great video man! It did help me alot on my 2000 f150
Got me to sub! Lol
When you cut around the plastic seal did it leak again
No I did not leak. It was solid up until it broke down and I had to send it to the junkyard haha
Thanks for the video it helped a lot but I would have have used alcoholic
Don't use urethane! Use 8mm buytle foam core. Can find at any glass shop.
Buy a Milwaukee impact and throw them ratchets away 😂
Putty Knife? That's what I called them.....
Good that you narrated your steps but you were all over TH place, if you going to start videoing a task, fully review and look at camera placement. Even if your doing a lot of editing, it will look cleaner and more effective. I have the 2004 F150 so I will be doing this same task really soon(Window arrived at the dealer Friday) oh and the little sharp point on the calling gun it's to open the tube and unclogging the nozzle. Keep doing videos if you like it, review the tape after you edit it. If you turn it off before the end, so will youtubers. Thanks for the vid!
Thanks for the input bro, will definitely use this advice my man!
Jerry, since your so opinionated , I thought I would give you my option about your comment and his video. This video was a major help. I did everything he explained , and everything worked out great! After doing the job after the education I got from his video, I completely understand what he went through. The job in its self is all over the place. I honestly couldn't imagine filming and explaining everything. I went on your channel and failed to see any of your skilled camera work, and I find that interesting. I guess I'm a little bothered by this comment because this job was very detailed and a little time consuming me, and this video saved me so much more frustration. I guess there is always a critic who feels the need to educate the educator, especially when they don't educate.
why didint he just replace his broken gasket he was already there....
That leak just killed my amp :/ time to fix a leak
No vehicle owner should have to go through this bullshit it seems like every video i watch there is no ford bashing i would be cursing ford while doing whatever the problem im Going to buy a ram next i do like how my f150 drive its just the little shit that make them suck big!
Funny, mine were 10mm
Putty knife.
I'd rather learn from someone who knows how to do it.