Just picked up a 1994 k1100lt with only 11k miles on it. I'm in the middle of a overhaul on the bikes maintenance and had to switch the ignition switch out video really helped me get some confidence to work on it. It's my first bmw I'm used to old harleys so it's definitely a different ball game to start with 😂
I recently purchased a 1993 K75 RT , it’s only done 38k with some service history , for my own peace of mind I plan to undertake the jobs you’ve done here , watching this has given me the confidence to get them done , very clear and concise tutorial , many thanks
That was a pleasure to watch. Relaxed and informative. Considering buying one of these with 49k on it. This has given me the confidence to carry out home servicing. Thanks and best regards.
Yes a great video!! 🙂 Thank you very much from the Netherlands. And yes for me too an encouragement to maintain my bike too. 🙂 I do own a K1100RS from 1993.
Great video. I'm especially grateful that you didn't add music to it. Thanks for that. You've made swapping air filters look dead easy -- I've always had a problem with that. The clips are very fiddly. The filters on these bikes are quite large and I don't feel they need to be changed often. I own a 1996 that looks to be the twin sister to yours.
I'm glad I watched this video. I was thinking of buy a 2nd hand K1100. As a complete novice, this video shows me that I wouldn't be able to service the bike myself.
You are right the air filter change is the hardest part. The front clip you can only do by feel and if it falls out it’s a game getting it fitted back in. Long pliers helps with the back clips. Thanks for the comment. I love this bike.
I remember my 12,000 mile service (94 K1100LTSE) it was about 1 years old. And to maintain the 3 years unlimited mile BMW warranty I needed service done by a certified BMW mechanic. It got new oil, filter, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, steering bearings, new rear tire, valve (bucket) adjustments, it took over 8 hours. Labor was 75.00 an hour. I left for a 2000 mile drive and 3 days later my rear brake pads were steel on steel. Good thing I found a dealership in Canada. I still got the bike, and have a lot of miles on it but it sure does not get service like that anymore. No wonder BMW can have unlimited miles warranties with the services they require for warranties to be valid nothing has a chance to break down, unless it’s your brake pads they missed,then it was “you must drive with the brakes on” . Nice video 👍
Good video. Suggest you thoroughly clean both oil filter and oil filter cup before installing. Also suggest filling oil filter with oil about 3/4th full. Prevents dry start.
Very useful video, but I do tend to warm the oil up before letting it out; thin oil does tend to empty slightly better than cold more viscous oil, BUT if the oil is hot, you have to be a lot more careful as hot oil can burn.
Few things. It's a good idea to prefill the oil filter when possible. Second I strongly suggest not starting any fasteners with the ratchet attached. That's a great way to unknowingly cross thread. Third I'm surprised the oil is filled to the top of the window. In every instance I've known the proper oil level is in the middle of the window though this one might be different.
@@ElaBellll In the manual of a K100, the top of the circle is the maximum, the bottom is the minimum. Pretty sure it is the same at this bike. As you could see, he has the manual also.
You can buy all the replacement parts as a kit from www.motobins.co.uk/. The tools you need are:- metric socket set, flat head and cross head screw drivers, feeler guage, Allen keys, grease gun. Then you need a couple of special tools. The oil filter removal tool and a long spark plug socket www.motorworks.co.uk.
Not sure why you would remove the oil filler cap until you are ready to drain and refill the oil. In my view this only creates a risk situation where foreign objects could accidentally be dropped into the engine. I own a 1994 model K1100LT-SE, my 3rd K1100LT, also own a K100RS 16 Valve and have owned a K1, K100RS 8 valve and K100RT and K1100RS.
Letting air in helps drain the oil. You can put the cap onto the hole after you unscrewed it to avoid falling something into the oil pan, just make sure air gets into while draining the oil.
Hi, It would be awesome if you can list out all the replacement parts you had to buy before doing all this and maybe also tool you were using... Thanks, nice video
@@NigelEaland Thank you so much for replying. Much apreciated. That helps. I am having touble with my ABS lights alternate flashing which started with a weak battery. I have tried to reset with the plug to earth. The lights resets but it goes back to alternate when i take off. I cannot afford a pump or computer so I thought i would start with the relay. Thanks again. Cheers :)
@@JohnFrancois-ti4wh I have total sympathy with you. After failing to resolve a braking issue my bike has been in the shop for 4 weeks trying to diagnose a binding front brake. After much diagnosis and rebuilds of callipers and master cylinder the ABS2 has been declared faulty. You can’t get new replacements but there are places you can get the control boards repaired. My understanding is that ABS1 and 2 reset in different ways. There is talk of looking for corrosion on connector pins. These links may help you. bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/ bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/ABS2-repair1.html Unfortunately I’m having an ABS bypass kit fitted and I’m thinking it’s time to replace the bike. Good luck.
like the video but i think taking your oil filer cap whilst you're taking the bike apart is a dangerous idea. just asking for dirt or worse still a small fairing screw to end up in your engine. In my workshop all the dirty stuff is done before the engine is opened up and it's opened up for the least amount of time.
@ 10 K, I think you could leave the air filter alone. It's got an excellent air box and a big filter, good for many more miles. These bikes like 80 mph all day long.
It sounds like the wiring to the kill switch on the right bar. I think there is a connector on the steering that may have pulled apart. Trace the kill switch wiring.
Minor service 5000 miles. Major service 10000. My bike is used more for social riding these days so the mileage does not go on so fast. I tend to to do a major service every 5000 each time as it’s not much more money or effort.
I’m afraid I haven’t. Valve clearance requires shims rather than adjustment so I put my bike into the garage to get them done along with the timing chain. The timing chain was badly stretched at 45k miles.
@@NigelEaland ich lebe im bundesstaat amapa in brasilia im norden von brasilien macapa, ein deutscher kam mit diesem bmw k1110lt 750 zu meiner arbeit und gab mir sein fahrrad kostenlos, aber es braucht einige teile, aber sie haben es nicht hier, du hast es geschafft um mir einige dieser Teile zu verkaufen, die ich übertragen habe, und Sie senden es per Post 📪
Nice and very good video, keep on doing these when you repair something on your K, what about setting the clutch play, could you do a video about that?
I was talking about measuring the level of the gearbox oil when filling which needs to be within 116-126mm to the top of the filler. You need 1ltr of SAE 80W90 oil.
Hi nigel rhx for yr effort! Is the k75 and k100 identical concerning anatomy resp.partnumbers? Oil air and fuelfiter by any chance identical? Wanna buy k75 or k100 tomorrow
The K75 is the cut down version of the K100. The manual I have from the time I had a K75 was also for the K100. Probably the easiest way to check if the oil and air filter are the same is to go on Motobins web site and look up the parts for each. www.motobins.co.uk/
@@NigelEaland thanks that is very helpfull, i live at continent, but this is so far the best partswebsite ....prices zre higher than here on continent i think....you are British...what i wonder...are japanese parts cheaper than bmw parts? In the states bmw parts zre even higher i guess....i have 2 boxerbmws....but want to explore the k model....as daily driver...consumption is quite low, what i read....
Hello Nigel! i have an issue with my 11LT -95. we have no contact when we turn on the ignition unfortunately. Do you have any suggestion where to start troubleshooting? Our problem began when reversing and applying front brake making forks rise. Then we only got contact when turning to one side. We pushed in a glove between the forklegs under the ignition and could drive home, 20 kms. But now we dont get it up and running. At full right we could push on the bottom of the key switch but then turning left made it stop, ie no fuelpump no lights etc was working. We are now trying to lift top triple tree to get access to the wiring. Do you have any suggestion what to do next? regards Par
Kind of ruff. You should start by hand with threads like those : extremely sensible, you brake it once and you are lost forever. And as the time goes by it becomes worst. I hope you won't discover the hammer.
Yep in too much of a hurry , the reason why I'm fussy about who touches my bikes. Advisable to clean grease nipples to avoid pushing dirt into the assembly that you're trying to protect
Hello again!! We have found and reöaired the problem. Cables in the triple tree were scuffed. Now they are repaired and made lo ger. But now next issue... Backlight blows and also stoplight isnt working. Do you have any suggestion about that? Best regards Pär
Pär Jonsson - the bike has a bulb monitoring unit. The hand and foot brake switches go into it and the rear bulbs are driven from it. For me the obvious first thing to do is put a volt meter across the bulb connectors and see if you have about 13.5 volts going to the bulbs with the engine running. When you start there should also be a red light on the instrument panel which goes out only if both brake switches and the brake bulb are working. Do a search on google for a wiring diagram. Bulb blowing can be poor bulb connection somewhere causing the bulb to flicker and die early. There may be a poor negative connection to the bike frame near the rear lights.
Are you sure it’s the gearbox? I think it’s your timing chain. Get it to a garage ASAP before it snaps. The timing chain is really thin and only last about 40k miles. I had the same problem and when they took mine apart the chain had worn a hole through the tensioner and was ready to break.
Nigel Ealand thanks that would be great. I've got the same but hatchback shape. Been trying to figure out where best to place jack stands, would be good when you have time to make a vid. 😬
at no but doing things properly I watched 3 minutes and I understood! Already not screwed to wear gloves correctly and take out a seal by scratching the plane with a screwdriver, replace a drain plug directly with a wrench! stop the massacre!
Just picked up a 1994 k1100lt with only 11k miles on it. I'm in the middle of a overhaul on the bikes maintenance and had to switch the ignition switch out video really helped me get some confidence to work on it. It's my first bmw I'm used to old harleys so it's definitely a different ball game to start with 😂
Very useful video Nigel. I look it everytime i have to service my k1100lt to avoid forgetting anything. Thank you so much from Italy
I recently purchased a 1993 K75 RT , it’s only done 38k with some service history , for my own peace of mind I plan to undertake the jobs you’ve done here , watching this has given me the confidence to get them done , very clear and concise tutorial , many thanks
That was a pleasure to watch. Relaxed and informative. Considering buying one of these with 49k on it. This has given me the confidence to carry out home servicing. Thanks and best regards.
Yes a great video!! 🙂 Thank you very much from the Netherlands.
And yes for me too an encouragement to maintain my bike too. 🙂
I do own a K1100RS from 1993.
Great video. I'm especially grateful that you didn't add music to it. Thanks for that. You've made swapping air filters look dead easy -- I've always had a problem with that. The clips are very fiddly. The filters on these bikes are quite large and I don't feel they need to be changed often.
I own a 1996 that looks to be the twin sister to yours.
I'm glad I watched this video. I was thinking of buy a 2nd hand K1100. As a complete novice, this video shows me that I wouldn't be able to service the bike myself.
Thankyou Nigel .
Very clear and great normal procedures to look after my K1100
Thankyou
full shop suit... and sandals
Thanks Nigel, I just bought a 95 model lt and I need to service it. Never owned a BMW before so the video came in handy.
You are right the air filter change is the hardest part. The front clip you can only do by feel and if it falls out it’s a game getting it fitted back in. Long pliers helps with the back clips. Thanks for the comment. I love this bike.
I remember my 12,000 mile service (94 K1100LTSE) it was about 1 years old. And to maintain the 3 years unlimited mile BMW warranty I needed service done by a certified BMW mechanic. It got new oil, filter, plugs, fuel filter, air filter, steering bearings, new rear tire, valve (bucket) adjustments, it took over 8 hours. Labor was 75.00 an hour. I left for a 2000 mile drive and 3 days later my rear brake pads were steel on steel. Good thing I found a dealership in Canada. I still got the bike, and have a lot of miles on it but it sure does not get service like that anymore. No wonder BMW can have unlimited miles warranties with the services they require for warranties to be valid nothing has a chance to break down, unless it’s your brake pads they missed,then it was “you must drive with the brakes on” . Nice video 👍
Good video. Suggest you thoroughly clean both oil filter and oil filter cup before installing. Also suggest filling oil filter with oil about 3/4th full. Prevents dry start.
Very useful video, but I do tend to warm the oil up before letting it out; thin oil does tend to empty slightly better than cold more viscous oil, BUT if the oil is hot, you have to be a lot more careful as hot oil can burn.
Few things. It's a good idea to prefill the oil filter when possible. Second I strongly suggest not starting any fasteners with the ratchet attached. That's a great way to unknowingly cross thread. Third I'm surprised the oil is filled to the top of the window. In every instance I've known the proper oil level is in the middle of the window though this one might be different.
If you were wondering he over filled it, oil level should be around or slightly below the dot after starting engine and letting oil move around.
@@ElaBellll In the manual of a K100, the top of the circle is the maximum, the bottom is the minimum. Pretty sure it is the same at this bike. As you could see, he has the manual also.
Interesting video...thanks for posting. It reminded me of my ‘84 K100RS. Sadly she became rather smokey on start up eventually.
Great video, just looking to buy my first K bike an 1100lt. 😁
Subbed for the service details.... and the sandals.😊
Thanks for the good video!
Nice safety shoes by the way...!
You can buy all the replacement parts as a kit from www.motobins.co.uk/. The tools you need are:- metric socket set, flat head and cross head screw drivers, feeler guage, Allen keys, grease gun. Then you need a couple of special tools. The oil filter removal tool and a long spark plug socket www.motorworks.co.uk.
Not sure why you would remove the oil filler cap until you are ready to drain and refill the oil. In my view this only creates a risk situation where foreign objects could accidentally be dropped into the engine. I own a 1994 model K1100LT-SE, my 3rd K1100LT, also own a K100RS 16 Valve and have owned a K1, K100RS 8 valve and K100RT and K1100RS.
Letting air in helps drain the oil. You can put the cap onto the hole after you unscrewed it to avoid falling something into the oil pan, just make sure air gets into while draining the oil.
Brilliant tutorial. Nicely done. Cheers!
Great video.. Helped immensely!
Thank you very much Sir ,this was very helpful
Thank you for making this video !
Hi, It would be awesome if you can list out all the replacement parts you had to buy before doing all this and maybe also tool you were using... Thanks, nice video
Thanks for this very handy video. Would you know how to replace the ABS Relay switch by any chance?
Check out section 61.8 in www.bskspeedworks.co.uk/downloads/BMW__K1100LT_K1100RS_Repair_Manual.pdf
@@NigelEaland Thank you so much for replying. Much apreciated. That helps. I am having touble with my ABS lights alternate flashing which started with a weak battery. I have tried to reset with the plug to earth. The lights resets but it goes back to alternate when i take off. I cannot afford a pump or computer so I thought i would start with the relay. Thanks again. Cheers :)
@@JohnFrancois-ti4wh I have total sympathy with you. After failing to resolve a braking issue my bike has been in the shop for 4 weeks trying to diagnose a binding front brake. After much diagnosis and rebuilds of callipers and master cylinder the ABS2 has been declared faulty. You can’t get new replacements but there are places you can get the control boards repaired.
My understanding is that ABS1 and 2 reset in different ways. There is talk of looking for corrosion on connector pins. These links may help you.
bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/
bmwk10075abs1fix.web.fc2.com/ABS2-repair1.html
Unfortunately I’m having an ABS bypass kit fitted and I’m thinking it’s time to replace the bike.
Good luck.
like the video but i think taking your oil filer cap whilst you're taking the bike apart is a dangerous idea. just asking for dirt or worse still a small fairing screw to end up in your engine. In my workshop all the dirty stuff is done before the engine is opened up and it's opened up for the least amount of time.
@ 10 K, I think you could leave the air filter alone. It's got an excellent air box and a big filter, good for many more miles. These bikes like 80 mph all day long.
time trumps mileage. paper deteriorates.
Tnx
It sounds like the wiring to the kill switch on the right bar. I think there is a connector on the steering that may have pulled apart. Trace the kill switch wiring.
Hi nice video. What service intervals does the LT have? Thanks from Denmark.
Minor service 5000 miles. Major service 10000. My bike is used more for social riding these days so the mileage does not go on so fast. I tend to to do a major service every 5000 each time as it’s not much more money or effort.
💥 Quite thorough, thank you. Are the procedures the same for a 1993 K1100RS.?
Should be. It’s the same engine.
@@NigelEaland Thank you, Nigel. And thanks again for sharing this info.
Good job
Hi awesome vid. Do you have a video on how to check valve clearance on the k1100?
I’m afraid I haven’t. Valve clearance requires shims rather than adjustment so I put my bike into the garage to get them done along with the timing chain. The timing chain was badly stretched at 45k miles.
@@NigelEaland
ich lebe im bundesstaat amapa in brasilia im norden von brasilien macapa, ein deutscher kam mit diesem bmw k1110lt 750 zu meiner arbeit und gab mir sein fahrrad kostenlos, aber es braucht einige teile, aber sie haben es nicht hier, du hast es geschafft um mir einige dieser Teile zu verkaufen, die ich übertragen habe, und Sie senden es per Post 📪
Ich habe dieses Fahrrad geliebt, es müssen die 3 Bremsscharen und der hintere Stoßdämpfer ersetzt werden.
Nice and very good video, keep on doing these when you repair something on your K, what about setting the clutch play, could you do a video about that?
Thanks for the comment. The next video, once the weather improves, will be replacing the front discs.
Hi thanks alot for the video, very helpful indeed, which engine oil did you use, was it 15W50?
I'd very much appreciate it for any information :)
Go to Motobins and look up . www.motobins.co.uk/
Geiles Motorrad
My next job, thanx for great video, next season will start soon
Thanks for posting this video! About the gearbox oil, did you say 160ML? Or 1.6litre?thanks
I was talking about measuring the level of the gearbox oil when filling which needs to be within 116-126mm to the top of the filler. You need 1ltr of SAE 80W90 oil.
@@NigelEaland okay, thanks. I will also measure the old oil for found out how much it will need for the next service..
Nice video. Thnx. How many miles is on your K1100?
Just under 60k
@@NigelEaland and still going strong I believe. I love the oldskool BMW'S. Thinking about trading my r1200gs in for a k1100lt in good condition.
@@vinjofin1972 I love mine. It’s a head turner.
10,000 mile service and 10 years to cover them miles, my oil is changed every march after standing and every 6k after,
thank you ... helpful video ... :-)
I see you took my comments down because i corrected your work.
i just got one of these bikes what tools should i buy to work on it?
Hi nigel rhx for yr effort! Is the k75 and k100 identical concerning anatomy resp.partnumbers? Oil air and fuelfiter by any chance identical? Wanna buy k75 or k100 tomorrow
The K75 is the cut down version of the K100. The manual I have from the time I had a K75 was also for the K100. Probably the easiest way to check if the oil and air filter are the same is to go on Motobins web site and look up the parts for each. www.motobins.co.uk/
@@NigelEaland thanks that is very helpfull, i live at continent, but this is so far the best partswebsite ....prices zre higher than here on continent i think....you are British...what i wonder...are japanese parts cheaper than bmw parts? In the states bmw parts zre even higher i guess....i have 2 boxerbmws....but want to explore the k model....as daily driver...consumption is quite low, what i read....
@@bobdelaplage690 the k75 is great for commuting and the fuel consumption much better than the K100.
@@NigelEaland thanks Nigel!
Hello Nigel! i have an issue with my 11LT -95. we have no contact when we turn on the ignition unfortunately. Do you have any suggestion where to start troubleshooting? Our problem began when reversing and applying front brake making forks rise. Then we only got contact when turning to one side. We pushed in a glove between the forklegs under the ignition and could drive home, 20 kms. But now we dont get it up and running. At full right we could push on the bottom of the key switch but then turning left made it stop, ie no fuelpump no lights etc was working. We are now trying to lift top triple tree to get access to the wiring. Do you have any suggestion what to do next? regards Par
You crazy :)
oli change on a cold motor ?
Thanks!
I love the look (not sarcastic)
Justin Thunder what can I say. It was a hot day 😃
Coyld I please put your video above in a Facebook BMW K page? Original bike kind if approach. Thanks!
Sure no problem. Send me a link .
Bike lovers and pet lovers not much deferent 😂
Kind of ruff. You should start by hand with threads like those : extremely sensible, you brake it once and you are lost forever. And as the time goes by it becomes worst. I hope you won't discover the hammer.
Yep in too much of a hurry , the reason why I'm fussy about who touches my bikes. Advisable to clean grease nipples to avoid pushing dirt into the assembly that you're trying to protect
Hello again!! We have found and reöaired the problem. Cables in the triple tree were scuffed. Now they are repaired and made lo ger. But now next issue... Backlight blows and also stoplight isnt working. Do you have any suggestion about that? Best regards Pär
Pär Jonsson - the bike has a bulb monitoring unit. The hand and foot brake switches go into it and the rear bulbs are driven from it. For me the obvious first thing to do is put a volt meter across the bulb connectors and see if you have about 13.5 volts going to the bulbs with the engine running. When you start there should also be a red light on the instrument panel which goes out only if both brake switches and the brake bulb are working. Do a search on google for a wiring diagram. Bulb blowing can be poor bulb connection somewhere causing the bulb to flicker and die early. There may be a poor negative connection to the bike frame near the rear lights.
Thanks for thst. We will have a try. Pär
I have an intermittent click and clunk sound from the gears when the clutch is pulled and the engine is ticking over, what can this be? K1100LT 1997.
Are you sure it’s the gearbox? I think it’s your timing chain. Get it to a garage ASAP before it snaps. The timing chain is really thin and only last about 40k miles. I had the same problem and when they took mine apart the chain had worn a hole through the tensioner and was ready to break.
@@NigelEaland Many thanks, Have got a mechanic to look on thursday.
I thought north American songbirds were only in north America 🤔
No more Mondeo videos?
Ben Ho I’ve still got the Mondeo. It’s a great car and next time it goes wrong I’ll post something. Thanks for watching.
Nigel Ealand thanks that would be great. I've got the same but hatchback shape. Been trying to figure out where best to place jack stands, would be good when you have time to make a vid. 😬
oil filter o ring
always put some old oil on the o ring before fitting it,always !
Majstore, nebih ja nikad moj motor tebi dao u ruke da radiš bilo šta na njemu.
And don't put your o-rings on the floor Nigel, crikey!
Fair comment.
at no but doing things properly I watched 3 minutes and I understood!
Already not screwed to wear gloves correctly and take out a seal by scratching the plane with a screwdriver, replace a drain plug directly with a wrench!
stop the massacre!
What the hell are you doing with the air filter?! This is not an example to anyone!
If you try/want to be educational, please conform to that role