Orca took my printing to a new level! Variable layer height makes domed top items look soooo much better. Doing a NCR Ranger helmet at the moment. Using mags to make a removable faceplate to be able to scale it to fit and be worn.
It takes longer but it’s soooo worth it! I can bump my speeds down but still maintain a killer with variable layer height & it’s still done in half the time than a traditional marlin printer
So from what I understand, Bambu Slicer and Orca Slucer are pretty much the same thing. The layout on your looks very similar. In case you hadn't tried it, Bambu Slicer also has the function to cut things up like you did in 3d builder. Maybe it's worth you having a look as I'm sure you can use Bambu Slicer with non bambu printers
@@danielcoombes3310 yea I did see Bambu is pretty much the same thing, oddly it didn’t have the plug in for the cr10 se so I stuck with orca but now it does, might give it a whirl & see if there’s an improvement with bambu slicer
@@Darkwingdad you’re weclome! Its not like cura that you must use a block, you can use them in orca and bambu but you can block by painting with the right click and its much easier!
I had good luck with the Deadpool helmet using the same magnets, prolly just need bigger ones. I prefer the welding bc the nose had a little gap that by flexing it & welding it lined it up perfect
3.15 there is a MUCH easier and accurate way to do this, if you click on the tool that is after the next of the rotation one on your right (lay on surface its called), it will show you a white flat surface that if you click on will move the helmet in that orientation. So there will be a white disk between the nose and side pieces and you just click on it.
I've been watching your videos for a while man, everything has been very helpful! What do you think is the best non-toxic finish for smoothing 3D prints that don't have a strong smell?
I have a question about what you would use to prime a very XXL print I want to prime and paint BUT simply have no time or interest in sanding something so large. 5ft long Alice in wonderland Caterpillar made of a dozen different Polylite Pro colors. I like the look of Rustolium Ultimate Bonding but didn’t know if you had tried it or recommended something else 🤷♂️ Thank you
@@Darkwingdad Layer lines are not important but it would be a bonus. Not having to sand a bunch of tight spaces in between the articulating rings I think is more important. I can do a little sanding on the large smooth sections before hand that might be seen but there are Sooo many surfaces it will be done with a vibrating sander 😊. Luckily it is 2.4 mm thick so it won’t sand through 👍
Love the intro and the helmet 💛🖤
Great video as usual, DW! Can't wait to get mine printed!
@@TMad_3D who’s file you using?
@@Darkwingdad Nikko or Yosh.
Thank you so much for sharing the profiles. I downloaded the best version. Can't wait to try it out on my K1.
@@thomaswalker9277 awesome! Let me know how you like it!
Orca took my printing to a new level! Variable layer height makes domed top items look soooo much better. Doing a NCR Ranger helmet at the moment. Using mags to make a removable faceplate to be able to scale it to fit and be worn.
It takes longer but it’s soooo worth it! I can bump my speeds down but still maintain a killer with variable layer height & it’s still done in half the time than a traditional marlin printer
So from what I understand, Bambu Slicer and Orca Slucer are pretty much the same thing. The layout on your looks very similar. In case you hadn't tried it, Bambu Slicer also has the function to cut things up like you did in 3d builder. Maybe it's worth you having a look as I'm sure you can use Bambu Slicer with non bambu printers
@@danielcoombes3310 yea I did see Bambu is pretty much the same thing, oddly it didn’t have the plug in for the cr10 se so I stuck with orca but now it does, might give it a whirl & see if there’s an improvement with bambu slicer
You can right click and block supports instead! Much easier to right click and block the supports in the dome than manually adding supports all around
@@mariospanayiotou6644 thanks for the tip! Haven’t used support blocker on orca yet! I’ve mastered cura and slowly transitioning over lol
@@Darkwingdad you’re weclome! Its not like cura that you must use a block, you can use them in orca and bambu but you can block by painting with the right click and its much easier!
Another great informative vid matey...that intro was damn fine...nice work❤❤
@@jonbloor7689 thanks bro!
Great intro Darkwing, helmet looks great 😅
@@phreak373 thanks I thought I’d switch things up lol
Thanks man , these help newbies like me. The settings on orca can be overwhelming.
Anytime!
You should do the retractable claws on do3d :)
@@jayp.4381 I seen them I might!
True rare earth magnets should have held that strong as. Neodymium magnets from AMF Magnets are strong az... 👍🏼
I had good luck with the Deadpool helmet using the same magnets, prolly just need bigger ones. I prefer the welding bc the nose had a little gap that by flexing it & welding it lined it up perfect
Another great video
@@goatelope7539 thanks my friend!
3.15 there is a MUCH easier and accurate way to do this, if you click on the tool that is after the next of the rotation one on your right (lay on surface its called), it will show you a white flat surface that if you click on will move the helmet in that orientation. So there will be a white disk between the nose and side pieces and you just click on it.
I've been watching your videos for a while man, everything has been very helpful! What do you think is the best non-toxic finish for smoothing 3D prints that don't have a strong smell?
@@wei-chilin6819 have you seen my video using liquitex? It’s the best non toxic option!
Great video as always! The print profiles on google, are they only for the K1 or will they work on other printers like the Neptune 4 Plus?
@@ericshelhart8569 yes they will work for all printers when using orca slicer
@@Darkwingdad thank you! Going to check them out right now. I’ve been having a devil of a time printing this file because the nose keeps breaking off.
@@ericshelhart8569 use the painted on support feature, it works wonders!
@@Darkwingdad i will try that. Thank you!
I have a question about what you would use to prime a very XXL print I want to prime and paint BUT simply have no time or interest in sanding something so large. 5ft long Alice in wonderland Caterpillar made of a dozen different Polylite Pro colors.
I like the look of Rustolium Ultimate Bonding but didn’t know if you had tried it or recommended something else 🤷♂️
Thank you
@@MakerBees333 check out upol or raptor 1k you’re wanting something that will fill in a layer lines?
@@Darkwingdad Layer lines are not important but it would be a bonus. Not having to sand a bunch of tight spaces in between the articulating rings I think is more important.
I can do a little sanding on the large smooth sections before hand that might be seen but there are Sooo many surfaces it will be done with a vibrating sander 😊. Luckily it is 2.4 mm thick so it won’t sand through 👍
What did you use for the eyes?
@@Xizervexius it’s included in the file. Printed in white pla
I wish I had the artistic side.
@@redkeyinuse4754 just takes a little imagination, try it out you’d be surprised!