just wanna throw it out there that i do 3d printing very much on or off, either im printing everything, or its long stretches of months where the machine is little more then a display piece. but every single time i come back to it, this is always the first video i watch to make sure everything is optimal. from the bottom of my heart, Thank You
I just bought mine and I'm watching many videos as I can so I will be a pro. 😊 I don't see any video on here on house to make your own models though. 😥
I just wanted to say I've been struggling with failed prints, dimples, all sorts of shit for weeks trying to use the recommended settings. Your tutorials fixed all my problems. Thanks so much.
Thank you so much for this video. I just bought a Mars 3 and some Siraya Tech Fast resin and immediately needed to fill an order for some minis. Scrambled to figure out some good settings in Chitubox and learn how to use it. Found this video and hoped it would at least get me a starting point for some decent supports that didn't suck. First try, these supports rocked! They came right off of the model without any significant cleanup. Haven't needed to tweak the support settings any further. You are a life saver!
The most helpful video. Just got into resin printing and struggled with supports. Printed a few things with your settings and oh my god, the supports come off so easy
One of the deciding factors of me supporting Artisan Guild despite tight funds was learning you presupoprted the minis. I do not have your patience and am very happy to let you do it for me. Thank you for all your hard work, sir.
I’ve been having fair success with the defaults and a few minor tweak…until last night when i had a horrific failure on a somewhat heavy model that shifted due to support failure. Reviewed my settings against yours and discovered a few of my setting had changed wildly from their defaults. No idea how it happened but I’m going to set up some config files I can load before a new support session to be sure I’m starting with good values. I notice this with Chitubox, if i drag my mouse over some numeric fields on any of the setting screens that the values will change rather quickly (I’m on a Mac if that matters). So, I restored all the Chitubox defaults, saved them for later use…then went through your settings and tweaked the defaults to be your settings, saving a new config set so I can get back to these quickly. Thanks so much! I’ve only been doing 3D printing a little over a month using a mix of auto supports and presupported models…I’m just now starting to do some manual supports and that failure really spooked me because it was such a simple model…now I know I should load a config file before placing any supports so I know my settings haven’t changed since my previous print. I wonder if it’s a Windows vs Mac thing…or perhaps my Magic Mouse being overly sensitive?
amazing video. thx a lot. Uncle Jessy recommends you and he doesn´t fail at all. very well explained. one of my new best 3d channel. i can´t wait the next one. regards from Spain
Nice video, i do most of this anyway but i did gain a few extras i didn't know, every resin printer starting out needs to have this video viewed and playtlisted
Thank You so much! The old settings and methodology were game changers and I'm sure these will have the same effect. Whenever I am helping newbies learn, I ALWAYS send them this way.
I just finished my first ever prints last night. Your pre-supports are amazing and watching these I hope to figure out how to support my heroforge files. Thanks for what you're doing!
Glad to see the update. Your original was very good but I did have issues with the light settings. I just beefed the base of the top up and the middle to match medium. Perfect prints.
For the chin you can edit the small Pilar shape setting in the middle window. Now you can place the chin support without the extra support on the bottom.
Awesome! Was using your settings before and loved them so time to upgrade! I agree with the light supports being a little bit bigger. I loved the ultra-lights but towards the sides of my print area they were always a gamble wether or not they would hold.
Your thinking is correct. The contact diameter and depth under "contact shape" only is applied when you are using contact spheres. It adjusts the crosse section width and depth of penetration of the sphere. The connection upper diameter below that is what would otherwise connect to the sphere, so when "none" is selected, that is now the point of connection to the model directly. Hence why the settings above it dont seem to do anything, they are specifically related to when using a listed contact shape.
I love using the Sphere contact shape. Does he ever say why he doesn't use them? It guides my flushcutters with larger supports, so when I snip there's barely anything to cleanup. And on thin areas, I don't have to worry about double checking the depth that often which might lead to supports poking through the back side. If they do poke through, they are rounded over and not noticeable.
@@chadvoller2031 The sphere adds a larger surface contact point as well as when dealing with lots of support points may result in the spheres contacting each other and bonding, or touching areas of the model unintentionally that then results in scarring. Using his support settings flush cutters dont need a guide, you dont even pick them up to remove supports. Lil warm water and the supports pretty much just fall off the model with no/nearly no marks they even existed.
@@MattWeber The Contact Shape set to Sphere has less contact area unless you set them larger than the Upper Diameter, and have the Contact Depth = or > to the radius of that Contact Sphere. For instance, for his Heavy is set at 0.80 for the Contact Diameter, I set the Contact Depth to 0.20-0.10, so it tapers towards the surface instead of being at the equator of the Sphere, which results in easier removal. I don't use water, as then I have another source to get rid of as I'm not one who will put that residue down the drain. I've tried his settings, which weren't much different than mine other than the sphere Contact Shape. They left more tiny marks using Elegoo Standard Gray than when using a Sphere as the Contact Shape. Much of my stuff is hard surfaced objects, that get made into molds (think coins, badges, etc), where support marks will become visible in the silicone whether one thinks they are invisible or not on the print. You can get away more with organic shapes.
Im printing a full plate with these settings now, Im finding on pieces with the light supports, the pieces pretty much fall into the fep :( Im thinking to increase the contact diameter a bit and maybe the contact depth/penetration
I had/have issues with my printer and I used that same model that you presupported for Artisan Guild. It printed great! I let me know that I can still get great prints with the issues I'm having. That's great news for my customers and gives me something to work on with my models that are not presupported.
Thanks Greg! I got into resin printing because of the insane models and without your help through posts and videos I think I would still be printing over cured blobs that fouled the vat.
So far 3 out of 3 minis have printed perfectly, thanks so much for your advice. Now I just have to get the build plate to move how I want on chitubox lol.
Hello Greg. At 6:02 you mention keeping the diameter at 1.2 but you are refering to the "small pillars" which are the ones that are supported on the model, not the floor. An example of this would be a mouth or a dug out place where there are no holes to go through in order to reach the floor (plate) but instead it has to support on the model itself. The actual diameter of the support is 1.5. You probably already noticed this anyway, but I just wanted to mention it!
Greg, thanks for continuing to help us newbies figure out how to get the best quality prints (other than getting the presupported Artisans Guilds ones, which I am a Patron of!). When I open your pre-supported files, I’m blown away by the careful placement and all of the really long, thin supports. My question is : has your process changed over time, or are your earliest support lesson videos still the best way to learn how to do this? I look at some of these models and I’m not sure Id even know where to start placing the supports!
Hey thanks! My early videos are still the way I place them now, I just have added in some more of the advanced techniques (covered in my later videos) as I have gone on and become more learned and practiced myself! :)
If you set top contact shape to none like you notice contact diameter will have no effect, so this settings are actually lighter than previous ones because you decreased Contact depth and upper diameter. Only heavy are heavier
Thank you for all of your extremely helpful videos on resin printing! There are several videos out there about "support settings". I would like to see a video about how to estimate or determine the amount or density of the supports based on the size of the part to prevent failures. You print mostly miniatures that have very little weight. I am printing much larger (heavier) parts i.e. cosplay masks, armor pieces etc. I error on more supports versus too few to reduce the amount of failures, but I am probably wasting a considerable amount of resin on supports. So far it's been a guessing game when placing supports on bigger parts. If anyone has a "rule of thumb" or formula they use for supporting large parts please leave a response. I am going to ask Uncle Jessy the same question because he prints similar sized parts as I do.
Have you found anything in your research? I'm looking for the same things. Just switched to a elegoo jupiter and running into a lot of support problems.
Hello 3DPrintingPro. Could you have another video where you would cover ALL configuration of you supports? Or even better share a .cfg of it? Printscreen would work perfectly as well.
these videos are great as always - would you consider a video on how to support more mechanical objects like small-scale tanks and the like? with such small models it can be difficult to understand what does and does not need supporting in a different way from the organic models
OK so I've got some patreon files and some are MUCH easier to remove supports than others... Lo and behold! Artisan Guild's supports are done by you... And they are FANTASTIC
I'm having issues printing with your settings... which I do not understand. My supports print fine but my print isn't attached to the supports.. it gets stuck to the FEP film.. Is there anyway I can prevent this?
Great tips here....but I was wondering why you dont use any contact shape?. Is it down to the amount of surface area you need or is it to do with the clean up afterwards.
id love to know the answer to this also. contact shape and depth are what I'm currently trying to dial in. i want it to be that the support rips just over the surface of the model so it leaves a tiny bump rather then a divot. looking for input on that where ever I can get it.
The contact diameter setting don't do anything when your contact shape is 'none' like yours. That setting affects the diameter of the sphere contacts if you're using them.
Maybe a dumb question pn an old video but how do i change connection length to match the ones here? In my chitubox its grayed out and stuck at 2. Did i miss something in the video about this?
great vid as always, hopefully you still look at old vids. but with the larger bed printers I been hearing you need to use more heavy and med supports? any thoughts on this? or experience? I have a new Saturn and am curious what you have found out
Thanks for the info, it's really awesome that you share so much with us! Quick question though, what layer height and anti aliasing settings do you use? I'm getting a lot of fails lately with pre-supported middle I've gotten via Patreon, and I'm guessing it's my settings that are off. Thanks again! Keep up the good work!
At THIS point in time Jul 2021, what tool, in your opinion, is the BEST at AUTOGENERATING supports. I've only tried a few so far but the difference between Halot BOX (horrible) and Meshmixer (very good) is mind-blowing. Other than manually adding supports, what is your favorite tool for autogenerating? Thx.
I know you mention resin do these custom supports work well for FDM printers as well? Also, do you think custom supports are the way to go if we only have a FDM printer?
I don’t think it would be worthwhile to do this in most cases. You don’t need to be as accurate with FDM printing and you probably wouldn’t be getting the supports you plan in meticulous detail to actually print with the same level of detail. That being said, I would be interested to see a side-by-side test. I predict a plate full of angry PLA spaghetti.
Hi, new settings are great thank you for your outstanding work helping the community. I am wondering though, how would you modify them if at all for a large print such as park of a tank chassis for example. Cheers.
Yesterday I ordered my first resin 3D printer and I have no idea how to start off even. The whole "supports" thing seems very important, and it sounds like something I'll screw up easily. I don't even know when to place supports, from where, where to, and so on. Very overwhelming.
Why don't you export your settings in Chitubox so we can import the profile? I'm afraid I'll miss a setting and screw up the whole print. Plus, it's better to import rather than making changes to the default and accidentally overwriting the default and losing default settings - since Chitubox can't seem to understand how to revert to default settings.
For reference:
Light
Top
Contact Diameter: 0.2
Contact Depth: 0.1
Connection Shape: Cone
Upper Diameter: 0.2
Lower Diameter: 1.0
Connection Length: 3.00
Middle
Shape: Cylinder
Diameter: 1.20
Small Pillar Shape: Sphere
Diameter: 1.2
Upper Depth: 0.4
Lower Depth: 0.4
Bottom
Platform Touch Shape: Skate
Touch Diameter: 10
Thickness: 0.8
Model Contact Shape: 0.4
Contact Depth: 0.4
Medium
Top
Contact Diameter: 0.4
Contact Depth: 0.15
Connection Shape: Cone
Upper Diameter: 0.4
Lower Diameter: 1.5
Connection Length: 4.00
Middle
Shape: Cylinder
Diameter: 1.50
Small Pillar Shape: Sphere
Diameter: 1.2
Upper Depth: 0.4
Lower Depth: 0.4
Heavy
Top
Contact Diameter: 0.8/0.6
Contact Depth: 0.4
Connection Shape: Cone
Upper Diameter: 0.8/0.6
Lower Diameter: 1.5
Connection Length: 3.50
You're the real MVP!
@@DaneSaysStuff I try.
for the setting not show are they the default, or the ones he had in the previous setting video?
does anyone know? or even better wish he could provide an export of his setting. problem solved
Bless you! Thanks!
just wanna throw it out there that i do 3d printing very much on or off, either im printing everything, or its long stretches of months where the machine is little more then a display piece. but every single time i come back to it, this is always the first video i watch to make sure everything is optimal. from the bottom of my heart, Thank You
Thanks! Glad to help!
as someone who just bought a resin printer, this is invaluable! Thanks mate for all your work to benefit the printing community
I just bought mine and I'm watching many videos as I can so I will be a pro. 😊 I don't see any video on here on house to make your own models though. 😥
I just wanted to say I've been struggling with failed prints, dimples, all sorts of shit for weeks trying to use the recommended settings. Your tutorials fixed all my problems. Thanks so much.
great! glad to hear! :)
Uncle Jesse sent me over! I saw your videos before, but I lost the links. So glad to find your stuff again, great work!
Thank you so much for this video. I just bought a Mars 3 and some Siraya Tech Fast resin and immediately needed to fill an order for some minis. Scrambled to figure out some good settings in Chitubox and learn how to use it. Found this video and hoped it would at least get me a starting point for some decent supports that didn't suck. First try, these supports rocked! They came right off of the model without any significant cleanup. Haven't needed to tweak the support settings any further. You are a life saver!
The most helpful video. Just got into resin printing and struggled with supports. Printed a few things with your settings and oh my god, the supports come off so easy
One of the deciding factors of me supporting Artisan Guild despite tight funds was learning you presupoprted the minis. I do not have your patience and am very happy to let you do it for me. Thank you for all your hard work, sir.
Whao man, I know that your settings are 3 years old but they are totally fantastic. Thanks for sharing
I’ve been having fair success with the defaults and a few minor tweak…until last night when i had a horrific failure on a somewhat heavy model that shifted due to support failure. Reviewed my settings against yours and discovered a few of my setting had changed wildly from their defaults. No idea how it happened but I’m going to set up some config files I can load before a new support session to be sure I’m starting with good values. I notice this with Chitubox, if i drag my mouse over some numeric fields on any of the setting screens that the values will change rather quickly (I’m on a Mac if that matters). So, I restored all the Chitubox defaults, saved them for later use…then went through your settings and tweaked the defaults to be your settings, saving a new config set so I can get back to these quickly. Thanks so much! I’ve only been doing 3D printing a little over a month using a mix of auto supports and presupported models…I’m just now starting to do some manual supports and that failure really spooked me because it was such a simple model…now I know I should load a config file before placing any supports so I know my settings haven’t changed since my previous print. I wonder if it’s a Windows vs Mac thing…or perhaps my Magic Mouse being overly sensitive?
I just spent 2 weeks getting failed prints on my new SM4K until I found this video. THANK YOU.
amazing video. thx a lot.
Uncle Jessy recommends you and he doesn´t fail at all.
very well explained. one of my new best 3d channel.
i can´t wait the next one.
regards from Spain
Nice video, i do most of this anyway but i did gain a few extras i didn't know, every resin printer starting out needs to have this video viewed and playtlisted
I have been using your old settings for months and have been very happy with the results. Thanks again for the info!
thanks for the update! I have been using the settings you reccomend and getting good results. Have a great day!
Man the best settings ever, I went to a lot of tutorials and advices and this is the right one, i had 90% to 100% of success with your metod. regards
Thank You so much! The old settings and methodology were game changers and I'm sure these will have the same effect. Whenever I am helping newbies learn, I ALWAYS send them this way.
I just finished my first ever prints last night. Your pre-supports are amazing and watching these I hope to figure out how to support my heroforge files. Thanks for what you're doing!
HIs stuff works on HeroForge, your life will be easier if you use the slotted base for your models.
Mate, you're a lifesaver. My prints are much cleaner now using your updated medium
Glad to see the update. Your original was very good but I did have issues with the light settings. I just beefed the base of the top up and the middle to match medium. Perfect prints.
After watching this, my 2nd project on my Photon came out AMAZING! Understanding how to narrow the contact cone made a huge difference! Thanks!
Thanks, always keep coming back to these settings.
For the chin you can edit the small Pilar shape setting in the middle window.
Now you can place the chin support without the extra support on the bottom.
Awesome! Was using your settings before and loved them so time to upgrade! I agree with the light supports being a little bit bigger. I loved the ultra-lights but towards the sides of my print area they were always a gamble wether or not they would hold.
Your thinking is correct. The contact diameter and depth under "contact shape" only is applied when you are using contact spheres. It adjusts the crosse section width and depth of penetration of the sphere. The connection upper diameter below that is what would otherwise connect to the sphere, so when "none" is selected, that is now the point of connection to the model directly. Hence why the settings above it dont seem to do anything, they are specifically related to when using a listed contact shape.
I love using the Sphere contact shape. Does he ever say why he doesn't use them? It guides my flushcutters with larger supports, so when I snip there's barely anything to cleanup. And on thin areas, I don't have to worry about double checking the depth that often which might lead to supports poking through the back side. If they do poke through, they are rounded over and not noticeable.
@@chadvoller2031 The sphere adds a larger surface contact point as well as when dealing with lots of support points may result in the spheres contacting each other and bonding, or touching areas of the model unintentionally that then results in scarring. Using his support settings flush cutters dont need a guide, you dont even pick them up to remove supports. Lil warm water and the supports pretty much just fall off the model with no/nearly no marks they even existed.
@@MattWeber The Contact Shape set to Sphere has less contact area unless you set them larger than the Upper Diameter, and have the Contact Depth = or > to the radius of that Contact Sphere. For instance, for his Heavy is set at 0.80 for the Contact Diameter, I set the Contact Depth to 0.20-0.10, so it tapers towards the surface instead of being at the equator of the Sphere, which results in easier removal. I don't use water, as then I have another source to get rid of as I'm not one who will put that residue down the drain. I've tried his settings, which weren't much different than mine other than the sphere Contact Shape. They left more tiny marks using Elegoo Standard Gray than when using a Sphere as the Contact Shape. Much of my stuff is hard surfaced objects, that get made into molds (think coins, badges, etc), where support marks will become visible in the silicone whether one thinks they are invisible or not on the print. You can get away more with organic shapes.
Im printing a full plate with these settings now, Im finding on pieces with the light supports, the pieces pretty much fall into the fep :( Im thinking to increase the contact diameter a bit and maybe the contact depth/penetration
Super happy to have find you and big thanks for your help for beginners like me is real important !
I had/have issues with my printer and I used that same model that you presupported for Artisan Guild. It printed great! I let me know that I can still get great prints with the issues I'm having. That's great news for my customers and gives me something to work on with my models that are not presupported.
Thank you for this video! A searchlight in the sea of the failed 3D print mistery.. ☺
That is actually a great update on the settings, as always much appreciated, thanks Greg.
Thanks Greg! I got into resin printing because of the insane models and without your help through posts and videos I think I would still be printing over cured blobs that fouled the vat.
Your supports make printing AG sculpt a so easy. Thanks.
Videos like this are an incredible resource, especially for beginners.
Thank you for your easy explanation. I just got my 1st printer
aaah , now i see how them settings work
thanks , this actually helped allot
learning how to start with supports for minatures in LD002R. Have no idea what im doing. Great Vid! Definitely rewatch.
Love how as soon as I made changes to my settings, nothing sticks to the struts anymore, super helpful.
So far 3 out of 3 minis have printed perfectly, thanks so much for your advice. Now I just have to get the build plate to move how I want on chitubox lol.
I love that awkward smile just before the video starts lol
Thanks for the help! Love the work you are doing for the print community! :)
Love you man. Thanks for spearheading this tech for us.
I just recently bought my printer and your videos have really helped me see my mistakes. Thank You.
I'm here from Uncle Jessy. Great content
Thanks for this. :D
The Joe Rogan Of Resin Printing
You made my day. Thank you!
Bump from Uncle Jesse. Love your vids.
Hello Greg. At 6:02 you mention keeping the diameter at 1.2 but you are refering to the "small pillars" which are the ones that are supported on the model, not the floor. An example of this would be a mouth or a dug out place where there are no holes to go through in order to reach the floor (plate) but instead it has to support on the model itself. The actual diameter of the support is 1.5. You probably already noticed this anyway, but I just wanted to mention it!
This has helped me immensely. Thank you.
Great info! Excellent video
Greg, thanks for continuing to help us newbies figure out how to get the best quality prints (other than getting the presupported Artisans Guilds ones, which I am a Patron of!). When I open your pre-supported files, I’m blown away by the careful placement and all of the really long, thin supports. My question is : has your process changed over time, or are your earliest support lesson videos still the best way to learn how to do this? I look at some of these models and I’m not sure Id even know where to start placing the supports!
Hey thanks! My early videos are still the way I place them now, I just have added in some more of the advanced techniques (covered in my later videos) as I have gone on and become more learned and practiced myself! :)
3DPrintingPro ok, good to know!
If you set top contact shape to none like you notice contact diameter will have no effect, so this settings are actually lighter than previous ones because you decreased Contact depth and upper diameter. Only heavy are heavier
This is awesome information I just wish you would have paused on each screen so that we can make sure all the settings are correct.
Thank you for all of your extremely helpful videos on resin printing! There are several videos out there about "support settings". I would like to see a video about how to estimate or determine the amount or density of the supports based on the size of the part to prevent failures. You print mostly miniatures that have very little weight. I am printing much larger (heavier) parts i.e. cosplay masks, armor pieces etc. I error on more supports versus too few to reduce the amount of failures, but I am probably wasting a considerable amount of resin on supports. So far it's been a guessing game when placing supports on bigger parts. If anyone has a "rule of thumb" or formula they use for supporting large parts please leave a response. I am going to ask Uncle Jessy the same question because he prints similar sized parts as I do.
Have you found anything in your research? I'm looking for the same things. Just switched to a elegoo jupiter and running into a lot of support problems.
Hello 3DPrintingPro. Could you have another video where you would cover ALL configuration of you supports? Or even better share a .cfg of it? Printscreen would work perfectly as well.
Notification Squad ;)
these videos are great as always - would you consider a video on how to support more mechanical objects like small-scale tanks and the like? with such small models it can be difficult to understand what does and does not need supporting in a different way from the organic models
email me the type of file you're talking about it might mask a good video :)
@@3dprintingpro212 specifically I am trying to print this, but similar vehicles with tracks would be great to see www.thingiverse.com/thing:3238910
outstanding....thank you
5:00 That contact diameter setting isn't superfluous. It's just not being used because you have no contact shape set.
OK so I've got some patreon files and some are MUCH easier to remove supports than others... Lo and behold! Artisan Guild's supports are done by you... And they are FANTASTIC
What will be good settings for articulated prints like the slug for example
hello could you talk about antialaishing for v1, v2, blur and stroke blur ?
You are a god!
Thanks for the video :)
To delete use the "D" key on the keyboard, not delete.
Great video thanks
I'm having issues printing with your settings... which I do not understand. My supports print fine but my print isn't attached to the supports.. it gets stuck to the FEP film.. Is there anyway I can prevent this?
Hey Greg, I got to tell you if I'm making good models is thanks to you, I wanted to ask which slicer are you using atm? Thank you!
I want to try these, now. New to this and still trying to figure.... everything out.
Uncle Jessy sent me 😎
It's an actual chitubox ninja... 👍
Will you be doing the video on your settings for larger prints?
Will they work in Lychee as well?
I’ve tried these light touch settings, but my prints always get ripped off and stuck to FEP. Any advice?
Are you able to save the support settings or do you need to change them every time you slice?
Hi what are the settings for Medium- Bottom and Heavy Middle and Botton ? Thankyou!
Thanks.
Why are U using "skate" on bottom?
Great tips here....but I was wondering why you dont use any contact shape?. Is it down to the amount of surface area you need or is it to do with the clean up afterwards.
id love to know the answer to this also. contact shape and depth are what I'm currently trying to dial in. i want it to be that the support rips just over the surface of the model so it leaves a tiny bump rather then a divot. looking for input on that where ever I can get it.
Awesome settings. Are there settings for "Heavy/middle" as well?
The contact diameter setting don't do anything when your contact shape is 'none' like yours. That setting affects the diameter of the sphere contacts if you're using them.
Maybe a dumb question pn an old video but how do i change connection length to match the ones here? In my chitubox its grayed out and stuck at 2. Did i miss something in the video about this?
Nevermind i reset it and it fine now! Time to test some prints!
great vid as always, hopefully you still look at old vids. but with the larger bed printers I been hearing you need to use more heavy and med supports? any thoughts on this? or experience? I have a new Saturn and am curious what you have found out
Thanks for the info, it's really awesome that you share so much with us! Quick question though, what layer height and anti aliasing settings do you use? I'm getting a lot of fails lately with pre-supported middle I've gotten via Patreon, and I'm guessing it's my settings that are off. Thanks again! Keep up the good work!
thank you
Just to note, the contact diameter won’t change anything when you have the shape set as none. 👍🏼
Think I might have to do a video myself on this and show you all 🤔 wait there …
Can you help abou auto/manual support settings?😊
How about very large prints like tanks in war games such as Warhammer 40,000?
At THIS point in time Jul 2021, what tool, in your opinion, is the BEST at AUTOGENERATING supports. I've only tried a few so far but the difference between Halot BOX (horrible) and Meshmixer (very good) is mind-blowing. Other than manually adding supports, what is your favorite tool for autogenerating? Thx.
What do you think of Lychee slicer? I'm newish to SLA and Lychee gave ne great prints out of the box so far
Would these settings work in other slicer programs? Like anycubi's slicer soft?
I know you mention resin do these custom supports work well for FDM printers as well? Also, do you think custom supports are the way to go if we only have a FDM printer?
I don’t think it would be worthwhile to do this in most cases. You don’t need to be as accurate with FDM printing and you probably wouldn’t be getting the supports you plan in meticulous detail to actually print with the same level of detail. That being said, I would be interested to see a side-by-side test. I predict a plate full of angry PLA spaghetti.
Hi, new settings are great thank you for your outstanding work helping the community. I am wondering though, how would you modify them if at all for a large print such as park of a tank chassis for example. Cheers.
Can you post the bottom settings as well? I have a feeling I have changed them over time and experimenting.
Do you use these settings for larger models like 1:16 1:10
Contact diameter is only for the contact shape.
It would be super cool if you could export your settings so we can import them!
Yesterday I ordered my first resin 3D printer and I have no idea how to start off even. The whole "supports" thing seems very important, and it sounds like something I'll screw up easily. I don't even know when to place supports, from where, where to, and so on. Very overwhelming.
Would these supports work for larger things like BJD parts?
hi, nice one. Would be thrilled if you could work on one settings which will be good with the Elegoo saturn ;)
would these settings be useful for larger prints as well. such a 1:8 scale?
Thanks for sharing this. I just started resin printing.
Have you used the PrusaSlicer for resin printing?
I'm curious how it compares to Chiutbox's.
It's autoorientation is useful, but I have found the supports suck
These are great are these still current? Can these settings also loaded by a file?
Why don't you export your settings in Chitubox so we can import the profile? I'm afraid I'll miss a setting and screw up the whole print. Plus, it's better to import rather than making changes to the default and accidentally overwriting the default and losing default settings - since Chitubox can't seem to understand how to revert to default settings.